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So this is my first go round with one of these on the Honda forums and I'm kinda proud of my baby and if I can save some of you some headache trying to build a nice audio tube then awesome.
I started this project like most guys on the forums. Wanting some sound when riding, and most my vehicles get nice sound systems. I built this originally for a 07 sportsman 800, but I sold the quad and kept the tube.
I bought 2 6 inch pvc 90* fittings and 1 T. Found them at my local ag landscaping store. Home depot and Lowe's only go up to 4". They gave me a 2 foot section of scrap to connect the pieces for free!
Do not glue them together!
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By the way I'm doing this from my phone so it will be in pieces so I don't accidently ruin a 12 page post and have to start over.
Anyways... I then got a soundstream 540 watt 4 chan amp and nice speaker wire and 3 Polk audio boat speakers. I chose the Polk because they have some of the best sounding 6.5 inch boat speakers. The sound stream amp because it fits in the 6" pvc and has plenty of power for the speakers needs. You can always go cheaper on amp and speakers. Also Kenwood makes a new amp with built in blue tooth if you wanna go that route.
Also got marine grade 6 gauge power and ground cables to run to the battery.
If you run to a cigarette lighter you limit the power the amp can draw to 10-15 amps. That equates to 50 amps or less per channel on a good day. My speakers wanted 120 or so amps. I decided to hard wire in a power and ground with in line fuse to the batter with a unisex quick disconnect power plug bought on ebay. This gives me the ability to unhook the speaker whenever I want.
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I then went to a car audio store and bought some honda civic plastic speaker rings to put in the ends of the pipe to give me a good mounting surface for the 3 speakers.
Also bought several waterproof fittings for a home solar system so that I could run the power and auxiliary cable through the pipe.
Then I glued the speaker rings in with messy plastic epoxy.
And cut holes for the power and auxiliary chords and mounted the water proof fittings.
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I wedge cut some 2x4 that I had laying around to mount the amp and cross overs on and then began running all my wiring. Soldered all my connections and didn't have heat shrink so I electrical taped them.
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Once I had all the wiring sorted out I cemented one 90* to a spacer then to the pvc T.
Then I took 100% silicone and coated all the seams, inside and out. Shoved all the wiring and amp and cross overs into the tube and ran a few screws through the tube into the wood to hold the amp and x overs in place. Then I covered the screw and screw holes with silicone as well.
Make sure to leave enough room and wire to be able to pull things apart years down the road if need be.
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Next up after all the electronics are stuff in you mount the other 90. With some amps you can slid it in with the 90* already in place. My amp wouldn't fit so this is why I built it with the last 90* still off it. Once the 90 is on I siliconed the seams as I did everything else including siliconing the waterproof fittings for the power and auxiliary cables. I wanted it to be waterproof but also I wanted it to be dust proof.
It might be overkill but I have had it for about 2 years and inside is still dry and clean.
I then installed the 3 speakers to the wires and tested it to make sure it all worked. Then pulled the speakers off and sprayed the while thing with bedliner. Installed the speakers and hooked it up to my quad. It cranks the jams loud!
Also ran a bead of silicone around the speaker so dust couldn't penetrate the seams.
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So the end result is a system that instead of having a total of 120ish watts to the speakers has 540 watts. It gets super loud and has some really good quality. I chose the Polk speakers also cause they had a separate tweeter so you get a smooth 6.5 inch cone. Gives a lot better base response. That quad would do almost 80 mph and I could hear the music just fine.
Also I can play it on my foreman 450 that I have now for 3-4 hours not running the quad without completely killing the battery.
These videos are cell videos and really don't do it justice.
https://youtu.be/4JobxNn_ZRY
https://youtu.be/t9FlkqyDy7A
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If you have any questions or anything feel free to ask or comment.
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really helpful, thank you!!
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Been rocking a typical split-tube 6" PVC/6.5 marine speakers for a while now. Simple & very effective set-up; two roughly 16" sections of 6" PVC, a cap on the front & female threaded drain-out adapters on the speaker side with a flat-cap screwed in, then cut open to fit the 6.5's. The amp I used(and currently still am) is the little Pyle "Hydra" 4 channel amp(only using two channels) that is rated as 100x4 RMS, but is likely more like 40-50x4, as it only uses a 10amp fuse. - Great little amp, especially for the money(pics of it later during the install in the 8" tubes).
The audio "source" is simply my phone in a dry-case mounted in the middle of my handle bars. Easy access, but sealed up should it take a splash or go under. - One of the biggest keys to these systems is a good audio app. I use PowerAmp, which has a fully adjustable 11-band equalizer.
Being able to tune the sound is key to getting decent volume w/o distortion.
Nice enough set-up & plenty loud, but I wanted more bass-line for better full-range sound. So, the wife bought me a nice set of Memphis Marine component-coaxial 8's for Christmas. My dad works for an underground construction company, so he snagged me about 4' of 8" PVC & a couple caps for it. Finally got time to mess with it the past week & a half.
Right off, 8" tubes are pretty big on the front rack. The moment I first set the pipe up there to start visualizing it I knew I couldn't just run caps on the front and have it "flow" with the bike like I wanted. With that in mind I decided a angle/slash cut in the front was the way to go, rolled so that it was partly to the top & partly to the side at an angle that "fit" with the rad relocate. - Sounds great in theory, but took A LOT of time & multiple cuts to get how I wanted it. I kept the length/angle so that the lettering I cut in the sides of my rad relocate cover wouldn't get covered up, which is especially neat at night when my LED's are lit inside the cover & glowing out through it.
On the speaker end, I ended up taking one 8" cap & cutting the slip part in half to make two 1" long rings to glue on the end of the tubes. The speakers themselves actually screw straight into the 8" pipe, but I wanted the rings on there to better fit the OD of the speakers/grills.
I then traced the front onto a flat piece of 1/8" aluminum & cut the end-plates. I drilled the plates & end of the tube to accept stainless counter-sunk allen headed bolts. - Ended up being very handy to be able to access the inside of the tubes from the end plates instead of just through removing the speakers.
Close-up of screw holes/counter sink bevel. The holes in the plate & tube were drilled with an 1/8" bit, counter sink was done simply using a drill bit the size of the head of the screws & just partially drilling into the plate.
Another thing about the 8" tube was that I couldn't at all get it to sit how I wanted just using stainless u-bolts around the rack & through the tubes like we have done all our 6" systems.
Thus, I took some 1/8 thick 1" wide flat strap steel & bent up some brackets that I welded to the front rack. That, plus it sits flat on the middle c-channel type cross bar, so I was able to bolt straight through on that one. - In each tube I used two 1/4" stainless bolts through the brackets I made + one 5/16 stainless button-head bolt in the center; all using stainless washers & lock-nuts.
The 8's are "component" style co-axial speakers, meaning the woofer & tweeter have separate in-puts fed from a remote mounted cross-over, but the tweets are still mounted in the center of the woofer. Originally these came as all white(typical marine speakers) but I sanded & painted the grilles silver to fit the color scheme of my bike. - All wiring is die-electric greased inside non-insulated crimp connectors & heat shrunk over top. Cross-over were mounted with a couple strips of 3M double-stick emblem tape, amp has two pieces of that as well as two screws.
Lots & lots of sanding.
......and then more sanding; sprayed with auto-parts store rattle-can bedliner spray. All finished up with the end plates sealed on -
Over-all I am very happy with it. The sound is great & it's louder than a truck with a stereo & 4 speakers (lol). Later on I may go to a little bigger/better amp & an in-line signal booster to maximize it more, but not worried about it for the time being.
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WOW! :rockn: very nice job
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Jp that is super clean and unique....I'm loving it but I would have never been able to make that cut even on both tubes lol.....
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looks good
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Thanks guys!
Yeah, those cuts took a lot of time; I actually did every cut by hand with a hack-saw so that I could better control it.
- I initially went with 6" of slash, just drew a straight line around the center of the tube, measured forward 3" on one side & back 3" on the other, then cut it. That made both pieces exactly the same, but wasn't nearly enough angle once I set it on there. I cut one 4 more times adding more & more angle, then measured it & cut the other to suit.
Cutting 8" PVC reasonably straight is no easy feet for sure. I got it pretty close though, and then sanded it with a 4" disc on an angle grinder to smooth fully smooth it out.
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Looks really good JP, can't wait to hear it this weekend....:rockn:
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I love this set-up. - I still want a little more amp for it to really crank way up, but the sound quality of the 8's is really killer, soo much more low & mid bass than the 6.5's.
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How to adjust the carburetor on an ATV? What to pay attention to? What are the signs of misuse of the device? About this today in our article. Using the proposed instructions, you will be able to set up the carburetor step by step without the help of specialists.
For stable operation of the ATV, it is necessary that the engine receives the optimal amount of combustible mixture corresponding to its rev range. Otherwise, the following problems may occur:
What needs to be applied in this case:
Important! Carry out tuning only when the carburetor is cleaned outside and inside, as well as when the engine is warmed up to operating temperature.
Check. Then turn bolt #2 one turn. The enrichment of the mixture occurs in a clockwise direction, depletion - against. Note. The location of the bolts on each carburetor model may vary, so read the instructions that came with your machine.
1. Start the ATV and test ride. Wait until the engine has completely cooled down.
2. Check the condition of the spark plug. To do this, unscrew the cap and inspect the candle.
What to look for:
3. Unscrew the needle cover at the top of the carburetor. Pull the needle. This is the main element that regulates the supply of fuel to the combustion chamber, since the needle is connected to the gas trigger. When the trigger is pressed, the needle rises, slightly opening the hole for supplying the fuel mixture. This directly affects the growth of power and speed of the ATV.
4. Remove the cable, then press the needle to pull it out. The needle has 5 grooves and a retaining ring. By default, it is set to medium. The lower the retaining ring is located, the higher the needle is raised, which means that a lot of gasoline and little air is supplied.
Accordingly, the higher the ring - the less gasoline and more air.
5. Reposition the circlip in the desired direction to optimize carburetor performance. Insert the needle into place.
6. Start the engine and press the throttle trigger. With proper adjustment, the engine should not stall from a sharp pressure.
And remember, you should resort to adjusting the needle only as a last resort, when adjusting the quality and quantity screw does not bring results.
The performance of a four-wheeler depends on the correct level of gasoline in the carburetor. An excessive amount will flood the candles, spill onto the ground and lead to unnecessary expenses. If there is too little fuel, the engine simply will not start.
How to optimize the fuel supply
It often seems like an insurmountable task for beginners to tune and adjust the carburetor of an ATV, but in fact, it is far from being the case. Using our instructions, you can easily set up a carburetor with your own hands.
Due to improper carburetor settings, problems such as: failures during acceleration, jerks while driving, uncertain start of the engine, poor acceleration dynamics, overheating, loss of power, increased fuel consumption, formation of deposits in the combustion chamber.
So what exactly are we going to tune?
Attention! The adjustment is carried out under the condition of a warm engine and a clean carburetor.
First, make sure there is no condensation in the carburetor. First, you need to drain the gasoline from the float chamber, for this you need to close the fuel cock and partially unscrew the screw No. 1, after the gasoline has drained from the float chamber, tighten the screw No. 1.
Let's look at photos of candles with various deposits and defects.
A 100% indicator of a correctly adjusted combustible mixture is carbon deposits on a candle.
Consider the location of the screws for adjusting the quality of the mixture and idle speed of carburetors of different models.
#1 Float chamber plug; No. 2 Mixture quality screw;
#3 Idle adjustment screw.
1 - quality adjustment screw at idle; 2 - fuel inlet fitting; 3 - fitting through which you can sleep fuel from the float chamber; 4 - screw-plug of the float chamber.
1 - ventilation tube; 2 - idle speed adjustment screw; 3 - screw for adjusting the composition of the air-fuel mixture.
ATV carburetor speed and mixture adjustment.
1.
Start and warm up the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
2. Adjust the idle screw to set the idle speed to normal. Completely, until it stops, tighten the fuel mixture screw, the engine should stall. If this does not happen, check the tightness of the air supply system from the air filter.
3. Loosen the fuel mixture screw 1 turn. (Turning the screw clockwise, we enrich the mixture, unscrewing it counterclockwise, we lean).
4. Start the engine and, by adjusting the idle screw, set the speed slightly higher than usual
5. Slowly unscrew the fuel mixture screw until the engine reaches maximum speed (we unscrew the screw no more than 2 turns, but depending range may fluctuate due to engine wear and other faults).
6. Re-adjust the idle screw to set the idle speed to normal.
7. Press the throttle trigger several times, check if the idle speed is stable.
Mixture quality adjustment with a needle.
Probably you have heard more than once about adjusting the quality of the mixture on the carburetor by manipulating the needle.
I note that these are extreme measures, for the initial adjustment, use the mixture quality screw, and only if you do not get the desired result, unscrew the mount and remove the needle. What does she represent? This is the main element that regulates the amount of gasoline supplied to the combustion chamber. Connected directly to the throttle handle through a cable. When you turn the knob, the needle rises higher, opening up a channel for fuel, thereby delivering more mixture, which increases power, which translates into speed.
You will see 5 grooves on the needle at the attachment point. Initially, the retaining ring fixes it in the central position, this is the best option. But sometimes it is not possible to achieve the required quality of the mixture. Then we will need the remaining grooves, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom, this suggests that we can adjust the dose gradually.
Lifting the retaining ring up and locking it in this position lowers the needle, which, in turn, blocks the channel more than usual.
