By Jeff Barber
Updated
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When it comes to mountain bike tires, there are a ton of choices out there (there are nearly 300 different models listed on singletracks alone). But how to decide which tires are best? Luckily slapping new skins on your wheels is an easy upgrade – just follow these tips to find the right mountain bike tire to suit your riding style.
Wheel Size
This is probably a no-brainer for most folks but be sure you’re looking at tires that will actually fit your wheels. Mountain bike tire sizes typically look like this: 26×2.10 or 29×2.25 where the first number before the ‘x’ is the wheel diameter in inches. Most mountain bikes have 26-inch wheels; 29ers have 29-inch wheels. If you see a tire that’s labeled in centimeters (700×23 for example) it’s probably for road bikes.
Tire Width
The second number in the tire size mentioned above is the width of the tire (in inches). Values can range from as little as 1.5 to 2.6 on the high end. Essentially skinnier tires roll faster (lower resistance) but they aren’t good in loose conditions (think of a road bike here). Fatter tires handle well in loose conditions and can absorb big hits but they’re slower rolling. Keep in mind that some bike frames may encounter clearance issues with fat tires; check with your bike manufacturer to find the maximum tire size you can use. In general, XC tires will feature narrower widths while more aggressive Trail and DH tires will be wider.
Carcass and TPI
All bike tires feature a “carcass” of woven fibers that basically acts like a skeleton embedded into the rubber itself. This cloth carcass is often rated in terms of threads per inch or “TPI” (sorta like thread count in bedsheets).
A high TPI tire (120 and up) will be more supple and lighter weight but this can leave the tire more prone to punctures and pinch flats. Low TPI tires (60 and below) are heavier and more durable but without the same ability to “give” based on the terrain.
In addition, Trail and DH tires may be armored and/or double-ply to increase durability.
Tread Pattern
If there’s both an art and science to creating the best mountain bike tire, tread pattern is definitely the “art” side of the equation. Intuitively it makes sense that long, pointy knobs will grip better than short, smooth knobs so the way a tire looks is important in making your selection. Also be sure to take note of knob spacing which can affect grip and mud shedding properties. Beyond that, tires are typically grouped into a few groups based on the tread pattern:
If you plan on riding off road, pay attention to the side knobs which will help with cornering.Center knobs are the workhorses on any MTB tire while the side knobs assist in cornering. Transition knobs affect handling as you move from cornering to straight-line riding.
Tire Compound
Unless you’re a materials scientist, understanding the various rubber compounds used in mountain bike tires isn’t necessary. Instead, keep this in mind:
These days, many mountain bike tires are “dual compound” and feature a softer compound on the side knobs for improved grip with a firmer compound on the center knobs for longer tire life.
Race tires may feature a single soft compound with superior grip but are often “used up” after just a couple rides.
Tire Bead
The tire bead is basically the lipped edge of the tire that seats inside your rims. The man decision here is wire bead or kevlar (the same stuff that’s used in bullet-proof vests). Kevlar is lighter weight (Sheldon Brown says Kevlar saves about 50g per tire) but typically adds to the price of the tire. In addition, Kevlar tires are “foldable” and may be more difficult to mount than a wire bead tire.
Front vs. Rear and Forward vs. Backward
Some mountain bike tires are sold as front/rear specific while others are marketed as suitable for both front and rear. Some riders swear by riding matched pairs of tires while others choose two different tires for front and rear. For example, running a low rolling resistance tire up front with a grippy tire in back can improve climbing while reducing friction up front.
Most tires are uni-directional meaning you’ll need to pay attention to the way you mount them on your wheels to get maximum performance. Some tires, however, are bi-directional (reversible) and may even exhibit different characteristics depending on which direction they’re rolling.
Tubeless vs. Tubed
Some mountain bike tires are marketed as tubeless, tubeless-ready, or UST which means they can be used with a tubeless wheel set up. There are advantages and disadvantages to running tubeless so we recommend reading discussions like this one to decide which set-up is best for you. Many tires that are not explicitly marketed as tubeless-ready can be successfully used without tubes but may take a bit of trial and error.
Specialty Mountain Bike Tires
Mountain bike tires aren’t just for riding dirt – here are some specialty tires you might come across.
Recommendations
As you can see there’s a lot to consider when choosing a mountain bike tire but don’t let this all info overwhelm you. Here’s a list of tires we recommend as good starting points no matter what kind of riding you’re into (the list is ordered randomly). Want more? Check out all the singletracks tire reviews or view the best mountain bike tires according to our members.
DH Tires: Not necessarily the best climbing tires. Instead, these skins are super durable and should corner well in extreme conditions.
Trail / AM Tires: Designed to be good “all around” tires for climbing, cornering, descending, and everything in between.
XC / Race Tires: Lightweight and typically fast rolling.
XC / Training Tires: Budget friendly tires that will last mile after mile.
If you’re new to cycling, you’d be forgiven if for assuming that all mountain bike tires are basically the same: They’re the knobby ones, right? Yes… But mountain bike tires can vary hugely in their size, materials, durability, and, depending on those knobs, the type of terrain and riding style they’re designed to handle.
A properly chosen mountain bike tire can make a ride more comfortable, safer, and give you more traction on the trail.
It can shave grams off of your total bike weight, or it can make you less prone to flat tires. Tires are quite literally the base of the bike -its connection to the ground- so the tires you use make a big difference to your ride quality.
Here’s what you need to know to understand how MTB tires work, the differences in construction and type, and how to choose the best mountain bike tire for your bike and riding style…
Tires are generally marketed for four types of mountain bikes and styles of riding:
Cross-country / XC / Marathon: If you’re all about speed and climbing, and you’re a bit of a weight weenie or planning to race, cross-country mountain bike tires are for you. They’re thinner and lighter than the other options, and will roll faster. They generally have smaller, lower, and/or fewer knobs, and distinct front- and rear-specific tires are common.
While lighter means faster, the weight savings come at the expense of protection.
XC tires have fewer layers of puncture and cut protection, so they may not be the best choice for gnarly trails, though burlier tires for cross country bikes are available. (We’ll explain all the layers and construction a little further down)
Trail / All-Mountain / Enduro: For most people, this is what they mean when they say “Mountain Biking”. Moving up in travel, you have Trail bikes (120-140mm), All Mountain (140-170mm), and Enduro (160-180mm). The tires get bigger, tougher, and more aggressive as you move up that ladder, too.
Here, knobs are taller and start to get supporting trusses to hold up to higher speed, more aggressive cornering. Tire size and volume increase to offer more traction and support, and they add more protective layers to the casing. Some tires get dual rubber compounds to put more grip on the sides.
c. Ryan Finlay for CanyonDownhill / DH / Gravity: If you’ve ever been to a lift-served bike park, you know what downhill bikes look like.
They’re burly, have massive suspension, and DH tires are built extra tough to withstand serious drops, huge obstacles, and hard hits.
Plus / Fat Bikes: These bikes are designed for wider tire clearance. Fat bikes are typically ridden in snow (or occasionally sand, like on beaches) because their massive volume provides great flotation in soft surfaces.
“Plus” bikes sit between fat and trail-sized tires, and had a brief period of popularity with 2.8″ to 3.0″ tires because the added width boosted comfort and traction. But the category has mostly gone away, and most regular mountain bikes and suspension forks won’t fit tires this wide.
An MTB tire size is typically expressed as wheel diameter x tire width (like 29 x 2.4).
Generally, mountain bike tires come in three diameters – 26″, 27.5″ and 29″. There are also smaller ones for children’s bikes, ranging from 12 to 24 inches in diameter.
The second number is the width and can range from 1.9″ for ultralight race bikes (and kids’ bikes) to 5″ for fat bikes.
While the 26, 27.5 or 29-inch measurement is based on your wheel size, the tire width is determined in part by how much clearance you have between your fork or rear triangle and your tire, and by your personal preference. You’ll have a range of widths to choose from, depending on what you’re looking for in a tire. In general:
Another major consideration is matching your tire width to the correct rim width. We have a full technical article on which widths work together to help you stay within the safe ranges.
Downhill is simple…if you’re riding at a downhill bike park, you need DH tires.
The difference between trail/enduro tires and cross-country tires is a bit more subtle.
From there, a good starting point is checking the size of tire that comes stock on your bike, then determining what type of tire and features best match your terrain and riding style. Just because you have a “trail” bike with 140mm of travel doesn’t mean you can’t put a more aggressive “enduro” tire on it if that’s what’ll work best for you…or vice versa.
But what features do you need? For that, let’s look at tire construction…
The simple answer is “rubber.” But it’s a bit more complicated than that. We have a deep dive on tire construction right here, but here’s the quick version:
RUBBER: Every brand has their own unique rubber compounds designed to excel in different ways, and many disclose the durometer (aka “firmness”) of the rubber. Lower durometer numbers (40-60) are softer and have better the grip, but they’ll roll slower and wear out faster.
Harder rubber (higher durometer, usually 60-72) provides lower rolling resistance so you can go faster, but won’t grip as well.
Higher end tires usually get dual compounds, putting a softer rubber on the side knobs for better cornering, and firmer rubber in the middle for faster rolling and better braking.
CASING: Every tire has a casing that the rubber is applied to. It’s usually a woven nylon fabric. Cheaper tires have lower TPI casings, but most “performance” tires start at 60tpi and this is a great baseline because it’s both flexible and sturdy. More aggressive tires sometimes use two 60tpi casing layers to add more support and cut protection. The tradeoff is they’re less supple and can have a firm-feeling ride, although they’re also better able to handle lower tire pressures without getting squirmy.
Lighter-weight “race” tires can get 120tpi casings, which use thinner fibers to increase the thread count. They are very flexible and help the tire deform to match the terrain, so they feel amazing, but they’re expensive and not nearly as cut resistant.
REINFORCEMENTS: In addition to the casings, some tires add reinforcements to further prevent sidewall cuts, punctures, and pinch flats. Look for a Kevlar or Aramid layer under the tread (puncture protection) or on the sidewall (cut resistance), or both.
An “Apex” layer is a small foam or rubber wedge layered between the casings by the tire’s bead. It adds a bit of sidewall support, but its main purpose is add a cushion between the sidewall and the rim to prevent snakebite punctures when you hit a sharp edge really hard.
All of these technologies work great, but they all add weight and cost. Knobbier, more aggressive tires pedal slowly and can really sap your energy on the climbs and flats. So, only buy as much tire as you really need.
You may notice that some tires in your local bike shop are sold neatly folded up in a cardboard wrap, while others are open to full size.
Cheaper tires use rigid wire beads because they’re easier to manufacturer and cost less.
Some downhill tires still use wire beads because weight doesn’t matter as much and they’re a bit less likely to come off the rim, but mostly you’ll want to upgrade to…
Folding bead tires use Kevlar beads, which are much lighter. Kevlar won’t stretch, so it’s unlikely to come off the rim (never say never, but it’s basically a non-issue), and these are easier to mount on modern tubeless-ready rims.
Those knobs on the tire—also known as lugs—provide traction. We did a deep dive on MTB tire knobs here, but for a quick reference, here are the basics:
Most lugs are designed to roll in a certain direction, which is usually indicated on the tire. Mount them backward and you’ll end up adding resistance to your ride rather than improving your traction. And some tires, like the Ritchey Trail series above, are front- and rear-wheel specific.
Absolutely! A lot of top pro racers will opt for more traction in the front and a faster-rolling tire in the rear. For example, Canyon MTB Racing’s Emily Batty is a fan of the Schwalbe Racing Ray tire in the front and the Racing Ralph in the rear. The front-wheel-designed Racing Ray in the front offers an aggressive XC tread developed for optimal steering precision with its lug design, while the Racing Ralph in the rear rolls faster. (This combination is also a favorite of Bikerumor staffers.)
A lot of mountain bikes and wheelsets are sold as tubeless-compatible, though many may not come actually set up with tubeless tires. As the name implies, tubeless tires don’t require tubes and instead use tape around the wheel’s inner rim to seal off the spoke holes. Sealant is poured into the tire and the tire is seated, usually using an air compressor or a bike pump with a “booster” chamber in order to add enough air quickly to get the tires to ‘sit’ on the rim of the wheel.
The sealant does exactly what you’d assume it would: Keeps the air sealed into your tire, even if you get a small puncture or you hit an obstacle hard and pinch your tire. This means you can run lower pressures for better comfort and traction, and you save the weight of the tube, too. However, they are harder to deal with if things do go awry and can be messy, so if you’re not much of a mechanic, you may want to stick to regular tubes while you build your skills.
You can attempt to turn any mountain bike tire into a tubeless setup, but we wouldn’t recommend it unless both your tire and rim are labeled as ‘Tubeless Compatible’ or ‘Tubeless Ready’.
Fortunately, almost every modern mountain bike tire (especially ones you’d be upgrading to) are now tubeless-ready. And most modern mountain bike wheels use tubeless-ready rims, all of which are manufactured to meet size and diameter standards to ensure a safe, secure fit.
As long as you’re buying a reputable, major brand of wheel/rim and tire, tubeless setup is easy and reliable, and will improve your ride quality.
In addition to putting tires into the XC, trail or downhill categories, brands often categorize their tires by the conditions that the lugs are optimized for. As you look for a tire, think about the terrain you typically ride, and whether you prefer comfort or speed.
There’s a huge range of pricing when it comes to mountain bike tires. A decent tire can be as inexpensive as $30 per tire, but can easily climb up to over $100 per tire. The sweet spot is right around $50-70/tire when it comes to cost versus value for most riders.
So, which type and brand should you buy? We’re adding MTB cross country, enduro, and downhill tire buyer’s guides, here’s what’s live now:
What questions do you have about MTB tires? Leave ’em in the comments and we’ll answer them!
Feature image © Pirelli
What types of markings and interchangeability of bicycle tires. How to choose the size of a bicycle tire. What types of markings and interchangeability of bicycle tires. https://www.sportek.in.ua Nikolaev bicycle shop "Sportek"
Published: 01/27/2017
Edited: 06/01/2021
Sooner or later, almost every cyclist faces the question of replacing the rubber on the wheel or the cameras for them. nine0003
The easiest way, of course, is to look at the size of the tire currently installed on the bike (it is written on the side of it), and look for exactly the same. On some rims, their landing diameter and width are also written.
In life, everything is always a little more complicated and it often happens that the tire you like has a marking that is not entirely clear or does not match the marking on your rubber. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the old bicycle rubber, which has served for many years, with a more modern one.
What to do? You can’t put a tire on a bike over the Internet, but you don’t want to pay money just like that. nine0003
In this article, we will try to help you understand the markings on bicycle tires and find out which of them are interchangeable.
The first thing you need to know when choosing a tire is the size of the wheels. They are usually measured in inches, but sometimes in mm. There are not very many of them and the most common are 16, 18, 20, 24, 26, 27.5, 28, 29.
At the same time:
Further, what else you need to know is seat size (diameter) of the rim or BSD (English Bead Seat Diameter). It is the most important and determines the interchangeability of tires. If this number matches at the rim, tire, or tube, then that tire or tube fits those rims. And if the width of the new rubber can be changed, then the landing size will not change much.
If the size (numbers in mm) is written on the wheel (rim), for example, as in the photos above, they accurately indicate the fit size of the rim and its width, which is the main data for selecting the inner tube and tire for the wheel. nine0003
There are several types. The confusion in the designation of sizes began in the middle of the 20th century, and today Great Britain and France use their own designations for marking.
Previously, the sizing system was based on the outside diameter of the tires. It was measured in inches (24", 26", 28") or in millimeters (500, 650, 700, etc.
).
Over time, this system lost its meaning, because different products with the same outer diameter wheels (together with the height of the tire) did not match the inner diameter (rim diameter) on which this tire was put on.There were also marketing moves of manufacturers, and the accuracy of translation and rounding of measurements in inches is lower than in millimeters.0003
To overcome these confusions and bring all sizes to the same standard, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO - International Organization for Standardization) has developed a universal system for designating tire sizes - ISO 5775 . This system was previously known as " ETRTO ". It was proposed by the organization of the same name: ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization or in Russian: "European technical organization for rims and tires"). nine0003
The most accurate, understandable and convenient. Describes in millimeters all the necessary dimensions. For example, 28-622, where 28 mm is its width and 622 mm is inner (landing) diameter . 
nine0022 At first it was in the form of a number and a letter, for example, 700C - 700 the outer diameter of the tire is in mm. The letter determined the width from "A" - the narrowest to "D" - the widest.
Now the marking has acquired a more modern look. For example: 700 x 35C. Here the outer diameter of the tire is 700 mm and its width is 35 mm. The letter at the end indicates the inner (landing) diameter. In this case, "C" is 622 mm. nine0003
Note a very important nuance and paradox in inch sizes.
Tire sizes can be specified as a decimal fraction, such as 26x1.75, or as a simple fraction, such as 26x1 3/4. nine0003
Mathematically, these fractions are equal: 1.75 = 1 3/4.
But, in terms of fit size and tire width in millimeters, this is not always the case, and the most unpleasant thing is that tires with such dimensions can be not interchangeable with .
And this circumstance should always be taken into account when purchasing a new bicycle tire.
In the table below, we have tried to collect the most common tire size designations in different systems and show their compatibility. nine0003
Perhaps not all dimensions encountered in life were taken into account, but if you have a tire with dimensions not listed in the table, try to estimate its dimensions based on similar nearest or similar dimensions.
| Rim bore size in mm according to ISO | Tire size in plain and decimal inches | French tire size | Tire size in mm according to ISO (width - bore) | Explanations |
| 681 | 22-681 | Sports track bike B-64 "Record" KhVZ (1958) | ||
| 642 | 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 700-28A | 28-642 | Obsolete size |
| 28 x 1 3/8 | 700-35A | 37-642 | ||
| 635 | 28 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/8 | 700-28B | 32-635 | American, English, Danish, Chinese, Indian road models |
| 28 x 1 1/2, 28 x 1 1/2 x 1 5/8 | 700-38B, 700B Standard | 40-635 | ||
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 44-635 | |||
| 630 | 27 x 7/8 | 22-630 | Road bikes, including older models | |
| 27 x 1 | 25-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 1/8 | 28-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 1/4 | 32-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 3/8 | 37-630 | |||
| 27 x all options | ||||
| 622 | 29 x all variants | 700C | This size was invented by marketers for tires with a bore diameter of 622 mm. They differ from 28 only in tire height. | |
| 28 x decimal | 700C | For 622 mm tires | ||
| 28 x 3/4 | nine0128 700-18C18-622 | |||
| 700-19C 700x19C | 19-622 | |||
| 28 x 3/4 | 700-20C 700x20C | 20-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 28 x 7/8 | 700-23C 700x23C | 23-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 | 700-25C 700x25C | 25-622 | nine0142||
| 28 x 1 1/8, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/8 | 700-28C 700x28C | 28-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.20 | 700-30C 700x30C | 30-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 3/4, 28 x 1.5 | 700x38C 700-40C | 40-622 | Road bikes: "Ukraine", "Minsk", "Sura", "Velta", "Aist" (111-321, 111-322) | |
| 28 x 1 1/2, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 | 700C 700x35C 700x38C | 35-622 | Road bikes: "Ukraine", "Minsk", "Sura", "Velta", "Aist" | |
| 27 x 1 1/4, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/4 | 700-32C 700x32C | 32-622 | Road and sports touring bikes, "Tourist", "Sport", "Sputnik" | |
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/4 | Obsolete Canadian designation F13 | |||
28 x 1. 4 | 700-35C 700x35C | 35-622 | Road bikes | |
| 28 x 1.5 | 700x38C 700-38C 700-40C 700x40C | 40-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 3/8 x 1 5/8 | 37-622 | |||
| 28 x 1.6 | 700-42C 700x42C | 42-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.6 | 700-44C 700x44C | 44-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/4 | 700-45C 700x46C | 45-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.75, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/4 | 700-47C 700x47C | 47-622 | ||
| 28 x 2.00 | nine0128 700-50C50-622 | |||
| 600 | 22 (23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 30)-600 | Old Soviet sports and track bikes | ||
| 599 | 26 x 1.25, 26 x 1.375 | 32-599 | Very old American light bicycles. | |
| 26 x 1 7/8 | nine012847-599 | ZiF (Penza) 190-535 "Samson" | ||
| 597 | 26 x 1 1/4 (EA1) (England) | 32-597 | English old sports and club bikes. | |
| 26 x 1 3/8 (S-6) | 37-597 | Light bicycles of the American firm Schwinn. | ||
| 590 | 26 x 1 1/8 | 28-590 | Soviet bicycles ZiF (Penza) "Diana", "Prima", "Turn", "Relay", "Sura", "Breeze", "Temp" American and English 3 and 10 speed. | |
| 26 x 1 1/4 | 32-590 | |||
| 26 x 1 3/8 (E.A.3) (England) | 650A | 35-590 | ||
| 26 x 1 3/8 | 650-35A 650x35A | 37-590 | ||
| 26 x 1 5/8 | 44-590 | |||
| 587 | 700D | Old size on some GT models | ||
| 584 | 27. 5 x 1.50 | 650x38B | 40-584 | nine0595 French road bikes, touring bikes with cargo, tandems, some Raleigh (USA), old Schwinn mountain bikes|
| 26 x 1 1/2 | 650B | 37-584 | ||
| 27.5 x 1.5 | 40-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 1.65 | 44-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 1.75 | 47-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2 | 52-584 | nine0142|||
| 27.5 x 2.1 | 54-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.25 | 57-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.3 | 60-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.4 | 62-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.8 | 70-584 | |||
| 571 | 26 x 3/4 | 650x20C | 20-571 | Triathlon, time trial, small road bikes, some French Peugeot bikes. nine0130 |
| 26 x 7/8 | 650x23C | 23-571 | ||
| 26 x 1 | 650C | 23-571 | ||
26 x 1. 75 | 47-571 | |||
| 26x1 3/4 (S-7) | Road Schwinn | |||
| 559 | 26 x 1.0 | 25-559 | Most mountain bikes. Classic landing diameter for 26 wheels. | |
| 26 x 1.25 | 32-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.35 | 35-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.4 | 37-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.5 | 40-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.6 | nine012844-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.75 26 x 1.75 x 2 | 47-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.95 | 50-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.00 | 52-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.10 | 54-559 | |||
| 26x2.15 | 55-559 | |||
26 x 2. 25 | 57-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.3 | 60-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.4 | 62-559 | |||
| 26 x 3.0 | 75-559 | |||
| 26x3.7 | 95-559 | |||
| 26 x 4.00 | nine0128100-559 | |||
| 26x4.5 | 115-559 | |||
| 26x4.8 | 120-559 | |||
| 547 | 24x1 1/4 | English children's and American firm Schwinn | ||
| 24x1 3/8 (S-5) | Schwinn American children's bicycles | |||
| 540 | 24 x 1 1/8 | 600A | 28-540 | Children's English and European bicycles, most wheelchairs |
| 24 x 1 1/4 | 32-540 | |||
| 24 x 1 3/8(E-5), 24 x 1 3/8 A | 37-540 | |||
| 533 | 24 x 1 1/2 | 37-533 | nine0128||
| 531 | 24 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 44-531 | nine0128||
| 520 | 24x1 | 25-520 | Road wheels for children's bikes | |
| 507 | 24 x 1.5 | 40-507 | Children's mountain. "Salute", "Altair", "Ervi" | |
| 24 x 1.75 | 47-507 | |||
| 24 x 1.95 | 50-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.0 | 51-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.125 | 54-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.25 | 57-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.35 | 60-507 | |||
24 x 2. 5 | 62-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.6 | 65-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.75 | 70-507 | |||
| 24 x 3.0 | 75-507 | |||
| 501 | 22 x 1.0 | 25-501 | European bikes | |
| 22 x 1 1/4 | 32-501 | |||
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 37-501 | |||
| 490 | 550-28A | 28-490 | European Road Kids Bikes | |
| 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 550-32A | 32-490 | ||
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 550-35A | 37-490 | ||
| 489 | 22 x 1.0 | 25-489 | European bikes | |
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 37-489 | |||
| 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 40-489 | |||
22 x 2. 00 | 50-489 | |||
| 457 | 22 x 1.75 to 2.125 | Children's bicycles | ||
| 451 | 20 x 1 1/8 | 28-451 | BMX for light riders, light children's bikes, some ligerades. Wheels on some types of wheelchairs. | |
| 20 x 1 1/4 | 30-451 | |||
| 20 x 1 3/8 | 37-451 | |||
| 445 | 20 x 1 1/4 | 30-445 | "Schoolboy" (old Soviet models) | |
| 440 | 500-28A | 28-440 | European folding, children's bikes | |
| 500-35A | 37-440 | |||
| 20 x 1 1/2 | 500-38A | 40-440 | ||
| 438 | nine0128 20 x 1 3/837-438 | European bikes | ||
| 20 x 1 3/8 1 1/2 | 40-438 | |||
| 432 | 20 x 2 1/2 | 40-432 | European bikes | |
| 428 | 20 x 2. 00 | 54-428 | European bikes | |
| 419 | 20 x 1 3/4 | Schwinn American children's bicycles | ||
| 406 | 20 x 1.25 | 32-406 | Most BMX bikes, kids and folding models. "Venta" (folding model 175-811). "Stork" (folding, model 113-322) nine0004 "Tisa-2", "Cross", "KAMA", "DESNA", "Schoolnik", "Velta Kama", "Dubisa" (Siauliai bicycle factory), "Eureka" and other folding and old Soviet models.Folding "Mustang" | |
| 20 x 1.35 | 35-406 | |||
| 20 x 1 3/4 20 x 1.5 | 40-406 | |||
| 20 x 1.75, 20 x 1.75 x 2 | 47-406 | |||
| 20 x 1.95 | 50-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.00 | 54-406 | |||
20 x 2. 125 | 57-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.35 | 60-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.5 | 62-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.6 | nine012865-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.75 | 70-406 | |||
| 20 x 3.0 | 75-406 | |||
| 390 | 18 x 1 1/8 | 450-28A | 28-390 | Children's European bikes |
| 18 x 1 3/8 | 450-35A | 37-390 | ||
| 450-55A | 55-390 | |||
| 387 | 18 x 1 1/2 | 37-387 | Children's European bikes | |
| 369 | 17 x 1 1/4 | 32-369 | Bicycles Alex Moulton | |
| 355 | 18 x 1 1/8 | 28-355 | nine0176 Children's bicycles||
18 x 1. 25 | 32-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.35 | 35-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.5 | 40-355 | Birdy folding bikes. | ||
| 18 x 1.6 | 42-355 | Children's bicycles | ||
| 18 x 1.75 | 47-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.95 | 50-355 | |||
| 18 x 2.0 | 54-355 | |||
| 18 x 2.125 | 57-355 | |||
| 349 | 16 x 1 1/8 | 28-349 | Old Moulton, Brompton and other folding bicycles, ligerade front wheels, children's bicycles. nine0130 | |
| 16 x 1 1/4 16 x 1.25 | 32-349 | |||
| 16 x 1.35 | 35-349 | |||
| 16 x 1 3/8 | 37-349 | |||
| 340 | 400-30A | 28-340 | Children's European bikes | |
| 16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 400-32A | 32-340 | ||
| 16 x 1 3/8 | 400-35A | 37-340 | ||
| 16 x 1 5/8 | 400A | 44-340 | ||
| 335 | 16 x 1 3/8 | Children's Polish bicycles | ||
| 330 | 16 x 1 1/2 | 400-38B | nine0128 40-330Children's bicycles | |
| 317 | 16 x 1 3/4 | Schwinn American children's bicycles | ||
| 305 | 16 x 1. 5 | 40-305 | Children's bicycles, folding, touring and some ligerades. | |
| 16 x 1.75 | 47-305 | |||
| 16 x 1.95 | 50-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.0 | 54-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.125 | 57-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.5 | 62-305 | |||
| 298 | 14 x 1 1/4 | 350-32A | 32-298 | Carriages, children's bikes, balance bikes |
| 288 | 14 x 1 3/8 | 350A, 350-35A | 37-288 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 14 x 1 5/8 | 350-38A | 40-288 | ||
| 14 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 | 350-42A | 44-288 | ||
| 14 x 1.75 | 47-288 | |||
| 279 | 14 x 1 1/2 | 350-38B | 40-279 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 254 | 14 x 1. 5 | 40-254 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes | |
| 14 x 1.75 | 47-254 | |||
| 14 x 2 | 54-254 | |||
| 239 | 12 1/2 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 300-32A 300x32A | 32-239 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 205 | 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 | 56-205 | Children's bicycles "KVD", balance bikes, sometimes suitable for baby carriages ("Dutik" tires) | |
| 203 | 12 x 1.75 12 1/2 x 1.75 12 1/2 x 1.9 | nine0128 47-203 | Small children's bicycles, balance bikes, baby carriages | |
| 12 x 1.95 | 54-203 | |||
| 12 x 2.0 | 50-203 | |||
| 12 x 2.125, 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 R | 57-203 | |||
| 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 | 62-203 | nine0142|||
| 176 | 55-176 | Tires for tricycles, scooters, balance bikes for small children, wheelbarrows and carts, prams | ||
| 152 | 10 x 2 | 54-152 | ||
| 137 | 8 x 1 1/4 | 32-137 |
29 tires differ from 28 only in height. Tire width selection is more flexible than rim diameter.
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Rim widths are measured and marked in millimeters as shown in the figure at the beginning of the article.
How to measure the width of the rim is described in a separate article here.
| Rim width in mm | Tire width in mm and inches | Bicycle type |
| 13 | 18 - 25 mm (1") | road and cyclocross models |
| 15 | 23 - 32 mm (1" - 1.25") | |
| 17 | 25-37 mm (1" - 1.5") | light cross-country and hybrid models |
| 18 | 28 - 44 mm (1.1" - 1.75") | heavy cross-country and hybrid models |
| 19 | 28 - 60 mm (1.1" - 2.35") | nine0128 MTB (mountain bikes, mountain bikes)|
| 20 | 28 -47 mm (1. 1" - 2") | cycling and light extreme |
| 21 | 35 - 50 mm (1.4" - 2") | |
| 23 | 40 - 50 mm (1.5" - 2.1") | extreme cycling |
| 25 or more | 44 - 57 mm (1.75" - 2.25") | |
| 32 | 75 mm (3") and over |
This table shows guide data for a medium bike. Use it not as a dogma, but as a guideline for selection.
Some manufacturers give their own tables for the tires they produce, according to which they need to be selected for their wheel.
The tire width affects rolling and grip. The wider - the better the grip, cornering control, but the worse the roll. nine0003
It is considered optimal if the width of the tire is 1.5-2.1 times wider than the inner width of the rim. It is possible and 2.5 times, but this is already an amateur.
The tire-to-rim width ratio affects the tire's cornering behavior. Too wide tires mounted on a narrow rim can simply break. will have a pear-shaped profile.
Further, if the wheel is equipped with toothy rubber, then the side spikes on the tread will not be where they should be for sure grip in the turn. nine0003
With wide tires on a narrow rim, the side studs will be too high and will not hold properly in the turn.
On narrow tires with a wide rim, the spikes will be from below and with a good slope, the bike will ride on the sidewall, and she is bald.
Below is the famous table compiled by Georg Boeder of tire and rim width recommendations
fractional inches) here. nine0003
Comments (132)
x nine2073
Every bicycle wears out a little as it is used.
This also applies to bicycle tires, which are very important to change in a timely manner. To do this, you need to know the tire markings. It is necessary to be guided by the parameters set by the manufacturers. It should be borne in mind that the wheel, or rather its size, directly affects the parameters of a bicycle tire.
How to determine parameters
EC
Most modern manufacturers use the European marking according to the ETRTO classification. This abbreviation stands for European Tire and Rim Technical Organization.
The following indicators apply here:
By the way, Soviet-made bicycle tires had reverse double markings. The inner diameter of the tire was in first place, the width of the chamber was indicated in the second place.
To date, the marking adopted in Europe is considered the most accurate and convenient in comparison with the rest. nine0003
Dimensioning in inches
This application of indicators also consists of two numbers listed through a multiplication sign or a fraction. For example, if the values are 28 x 1.4, then 28 equals the outer diameter of the tire, and 1.4 is its intended width in inches.
French
French marking may have the following meaning: 700 x 35C. Local manufacturers put down numerical values for width, inner diameter and outer diameter. Therefore, in this case, the figure 700 is the approximate value of the outer diameter. In turn, the designation "C" determines the inner diameter. The indicator decreases with the movement of the letter to the beginning of the alphabet. Therefore, "A" is the smallest, and "D" is the largest. In the above example, the value "C" defines an internal diameter of 622 mm. This system of recording values is not applicable to all bicycles (for example, not used for mountain bikes). nine0003
How to determine the bore diameter?
So, if you need a bicycle tire, you should initially select the diameter of the wheel rim.
Diameter size 28 and 29 equals 622 mm. These two tires differ only in height and thickness.
27.5-inch wheels require a bore diameter of 584 and 590 mm.
