Don’t have a puller? That’s fine. It’s still possible to remove the primary clutch on your snowmobile with a strong bolt and the power of hydraulics.
I’m Chaz, and I love riding and wrenching on my snowmobiles. I’ve spent countless hours cranking away at repairs and upgrades to my sleds over the years and learned a few tricks along the way. I’m not an expert mechanic, but I’m pretty capable.
In this article, I’ll show you how to remove a clutch without a puller. Some people might scoff at this idea, but it’s effective and can allow you to get the job done with limited tools.
Get on your grease clothes, and let’s go.
Table of Contents
You don’t need a lot to remove the clutch without a puller, just a few common tools you probably already have lying around the shop.
Before you start, make sure you have the following:
A few notes on the items above: The shop blanket or rug isn’t necessary, but since you’ll be flipping the snowmobile on its side, I’d recommend laying these down first to avoid damage.
You need to make sure that the Grade 8 bolt you use matches the clutch bolt’s thread pitch for this method to work.
Take the clutch bolt into a hardware shop to match it up precisely if you’re not sure. You can also just use the clutch bolt.
If you use a hand wrench and socket instead of an impact wrench, you’ll need to hold the clutch in place as you crank down on the bolt with a tie strap.
Once you have all of the tools and the correct bolt, follow these instructions to remove the clutch:
Lay down the blankets or a rug and flip the snowmobile onto the side opposite of where you need to access the clutch. This will protect your sled and the floor from any dings or damage.
Remove any plastic or other coverings from the engine compartment or body to expose the clutch you want to remove. You don’t need to remove the seat unless it gets in the way. You want the entire clutch to be able to pop off easily.
Use an impact wrench or a wrench and socket to remove the clutch bolt from the clutch itself.
This step is crucial because it helps create the hydraulic pressure that eventually releases the clutch. I’ve seen people not use tape, and this method can still work, but I think it’s much more effective and easy when you use it.
Make sure to wrap the tape in the threads’ direction so that it won’t pull/rip off when tightened. Start with a single wrap at the top of the threads and get a little thicker as you work towards the bottom.
Simply pour water into the hole where the clutch bolt came out of. You can also use oil or grease, but water is easier to clean up and just as effective. I would use room temperature or slightly warmed-up water.
Fill the hole up reasonably high up the shaft, but you don’t need to go all the way to overflow.
Now place the bolt back into the water-filled hole. Just barely begin to get it threaded with your hands so that it stays in place.
Use an impact wrench or hand wrench with the proper size socket to tighten the bolt.
As you tighten, the hydraulic pressure underneath the bolt will build and separate the clutch from the crank. As this pressure builds, the clutch should pop right off.
You will feel the pressure build, and the bold will get more difficult to turn. Don’t be alarmed by this. There will be enough water underneath the bolt that you won’t overtighten and cause any damage to the clutch or other components of the engine.
You will also hear and feel a loud pop or snap when the clutch releases. This can be relatively dramatic as the pressure builds up enough to push the clutch off. The noise is normal and nothing to worry about.
If you are using a hand wrench, you will probably need to hold the clutch in place to keep it from spinning by using a tie strap.
With the clutch off, you can replace it or make any other repairs that need attention.
Be sure to put everything back together and torque the clutch bolt to spec.
A puller is an excellent tool to have around the shop. It can come in handy for various other purposes on your snowmobile or automobile, and I would recommend having one around. They aren’t expensive and are helpful.
For this job, in particular, I think that the water method is more straightforward, and you don’t need a puller to remove the clutch. I’ve known other snowmobile owners who do repairs by the book and think the water method seems a little bootleg.
In my experience, it works and shouldn’t be frowned upon. Plus, this method can help you remove a damaged clutch more effectively than a puller, so it’s good to know even if you do have access to a puller.
A puller will remove a clutch easily as well, so the choice is really up to you.
Using the water/hydraulic method to remove a snowmobile clutch makes this task very easy to accomplish without a puller.
I was pretty stunned when I first learned about it. It’s also like a lesson in fundamental physics and mechanics!
Through all the years I’ve spent working on snowmobiles and other engines, I’ve realized that there never is one right way to fix something. Often, the same result can be reached through different methods – which is on full display here.
Have you ever used this method to remove a clutch without a puller? Let us know in the comments below!
About Chaz Wyland
I’m a snowmobile fanatic. I live for riding and am out on the trails or backcountry as often as possible during the winter months. I was born and raised in the Rocky Mountains and have snowmobiled in dozens of North American locations. When the snow is falling, you’ll find me on a sled.
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hi
i have a 2008 ski-doo summit x and i want to take the primary out and i don't have the clutch puller!!is there any way to take it out???
thanks
remove your primary bolt and put your sled on it's exhaust side. fill the bolt hole full of water, then wrap your primary bolt with a few wraps of teflon tape.
the yellow gas line tape works the best, but white will work as well with an extra wrap or two. make sure to wrap the threads clockwise (looking down on top of the threads with bolt pointed upwards) and thread the tape wrapped bolt into primary bolt hole filled with water. use an impact (it will not rattle the crank because there is no metal to metal contact like using a puller) or just a ratchet and socket if you have no impact. the primary will pop off with a bang that will almost make you chit your pants.
teeroy said:
remove your primary bolt and put your sled on it's exhaust side. fill the bolt hole full of water, then wrap your primary bolt with a few wraps of teflon tape. the yellow gas line tape works the best, but white will work as well with an extra wrap or two.
make sure to wrap the threads clockwise (looking down on top of the threads with bolt pointed upwards) and thread the tape wrapped bolt into primary bolt hole filled with water. use an impact (it will not rattle the crank because there is no metal to metal contact like using a puller) or just a ratchet and socket if you have no impact. the primary will pop off with a bang that will almost make you chit your pants.
Click to expand...
Or if your troy maybe not "almost"
WOW... your all about the chitting your pants aren't you....
Bogger said:
Or if your troy maybe not "almost"
WOW... your all about the chitting your pants aren't you.
...
Click to expand...
nothing better than that nice warm feeling Bogg....you know what I mean....
teeroy said:
remove your primary bolt and put your sled on it's exhaust side. fill the bolt hole full of water, then wrap your primary bolt with a few wraps of teflon tape. the yellow gas line tape works the best, but white will work as well with an extra wrap or two. make sure to wrap the threads clockwise (looking down on top of the threads with bolt pointed upwards) and thread the tape wrapped bolt into primary bolt hole filled with water. use an impact (it will not rattle the crank because there is no metal to metal contact like using a puller) or just a ratchet and socket if you have no impact.
the primary will pop off with a bang that will almost make you chit your pants.
Click to expand...
If you use a rachet you need to hold the clutch from turning, i use a tie down strap. Teeroy is bang on here though, i find this way easier than using the "proper" tools for clutch removal.
Have you guys actually done it this way?? Does the clutch bolt not thread into the crank and there for you will have the water hydraulic inside the crank?? Not trying to be a smart ass just want to clarify I thought the threads in the clutch were bigger than the threads in the crank so you couldn't use the original clutch retaining bolt. But it sound like a viable solution.
Taz said:
Have you guys actually done it this way?? Does the clutch bolt not thread into the crank and there for you will have the water hydraulic inside the crank?? Not trying to be a smart ass just want to clarify I thought the threads in the clutch were bigger than the threads in the crank so you couldn't use the original clutch retaining bolt.
But it sound like a viable solution.
Click to expand...
the bolt first must thread through the fixed half before threading into the crank, the threads in the fixed half and the crank are the same.
I was skeptical when I first heard of this a few years back, but was out of options to get my clutch off because I didn't want to break the puller off inside the clutch like I had seen others post about. I tried several times to get it off using hot water, warming and cooling with a torch, even putting it outside at -30 with tension on the puller and bringing it inside....nothing worked and I surely wasn't going to use a 3/4" impact on the puller like the dealer suggested.... .
when I tried it the very first time, I just used a ratchet and was holding the clutch from turning with one hand and it came off with a bang, I barely felt any resistance on the ratchet and it scared me when it popped off. amazing....I haven't used a puller since, and never will again.
This way works insanely good.
one could use grease instead of water? wouldn't have to turn it on its side.
fastdude said:
one could use grease instead of water? wouldn't have to turn it on its side.
Click to expand...
I use some grease on the end of the puller as it is, reduces metal to metal friction.
fastdude said:
one could use grease instead of water? wouldn't have to turn it on its side.
Click to expand...
but how the hell will ya clean it all out when you put the clutch back on?
brake cleen or wd-40
I have been the victim of the dreaded broken puller syndrome.
I will definately keep this tip close to the top of my toolbox. Cheers
Cowboy151 said:
I have been the victim of the dreaded broken puller syndrome. I will definately keep this tip close to the top of my toolbox. Cheers
Click to expand...
70ftlbs on the puller!!! lol
not " i had the longest snype i could find " torque LOL
I tried this and it actuly worked! thanks!
Good post.
I've gotta do the crank seal on my 800 Rev and don't have a puller. Guess I don't need one!
Not trying to Hi-jack the thread but any advice on replacing the crank seal? I've never done one before.
BC Sno-Ghost said:
Good post. I've gotta do the crank seal on my 800 Rev and don't have a puller. Guess I don't need one!
Not trying to Hi-jack the thread but any advice on replacing the crank seal? I've never done one before.Click to expand...
Does your sled have the plate with the 4 bolts to hold the seal in or is it pressed into the case? - the fundamentals are pretty simple: pull the old one out, re-grease the bearing, clean the groove and surface very well, put new seal in properly with even pressure preferrably with a seal driver but if you have a big socket that can work too (don't just bang on one side and then on the other with a flatblade screwdriver etc).
teeroy said:
remove your primary bolt and put your sled on it's exhaust side. fill the bolt hole full of water, then wrap your primary bolt with a few wraps of teflon tape. the yellow gas line tape works the best, but white will work as well with an extra wrap or two. make sure to wrap the threads clockwise (looking down on top of the threads with bolt pointed upwards) and thread the tape wrapped bolt into primary bolt hole filled with water. use an impact (it will not rattle the crank because there is no metal to metal contact like using a puller) or just a ratchet and socket if you have no impact. the primary will pop off with a bang that will almost make you chit your pants.
Click to expand...
it worked with water very very easy!!!!
thanks
Modman said:
Does your sled have the plate with the 4 bolts to hold the seal in or is it pressed into the case? - the fundamentals are pretty simple: pull the old one out, re-grease the bearing, clean the groove and surface very well, put new seal in properly with even pressure preferrably with a seal driver but if you have a big socket that can work too (don't just bang on one side and then on the other with a flatblade screwdriver etc).
Click to expand...
Thanks Modman. Greatly appreciated
teeroy said:
remove your primary bolt and put your sled on it's exhaust side. fill the bolt hole full of water, then wrap your primary bolt with a few wraps of teflon tape. the yellow gas line tape works the best, but white will work as well with an extra wrap or two. make sure to wrap the threads clockwise (looking down on top of the threads with bolt pointed upwards) and thread the tape wrapped bolt into primary bolt hole filled with water. use an impact (it will not rattle the crank because there is no metal to metal contact like using a puller) or just a ratchet and socket if you have no impact.
the primary will pop off with a bang that will almost make you chit your pants.
Click to expand...
Is this just a Doo fix or would it work on a '96 Polarice as well?
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Top Bottom
The ATV clutch is responsible for shifting gears, as well as damping vibrations while riding.
But if the element is worn out, the rider will face a number of problems: jerking, slipping, etc. In this case, the component will have to be changed. Therefore, let's figure out how to replace the clutch and when to do it.
The movement of the ATV is directly dependent on the condition of the clutch. And even if you were able to buy a quality ATV, it is recommended to check this unit every 6-7 thousand km. But improper operation of equipment or overloading can “kill” the mechanism even earlier. If the device crashes, you will notice that:
All these problems can be solved by repairing or replacing the ATV clutch.
Note: Please note that the assembly of many Chinese ATVs leaves much to be desired.
Therefore, after buying a quadric, you should check how the clutch is installed. If the nut on the mechanism is not fully tightened, you will hear a rumble in the CVT area while driving.
How to remove and install a new clutch on a children's ATV depends on the model of the device. For example, on some models, the chain reducer is covered with plastic parts (footboard, etc.). In this case, the master needs to dismantle all interfering elements.
To replace the clutch you need:
The procedure is quite simple, but the design features of the ATV can make it a little more difficult. For example, in order to remove the mechanism from a teenage all-terrain vehicle, you need to dismantle the gearbox cover, unscrew a few screws, unscrew the nut, remove the washer and remove the clamp. Before changing the clutch on an ATV, study the documentation for the device.
It should be said right away that replacing the clutch on an ATV with a CVT is a little different from servicing children's or teenage vehicles. And the thing is that in order to complete the procedure, the rider will have to dismantle the transmission. Because the quad's clutch is hidden behind the CVT, the rider needs to:
This will give you access to the quadric clutch. Then you just have to unscrew the central bolt, loosen and get the mechanism. After that, you need to install a new component, tighten the nut and assemble the variator.
In fact, even Chinese mechanisms have a significant service life. Therefore, the main reason why the clutch on an ATV burns out is the improper use of technology. Component lifespan reduces:
If you "spare" the clutch, the resource of the mechanism will last even for 10 thousand km.
02/19/2021 2402
The clutch on an ATV is responsible for both shifting gears and reducing vibration while riding.
ATVs for children are no exception.
As a rule, the occurrence of any problems with this component of motor vehicles, the rider feels immediately. It is recommended to service the ATV clutch every 6000-7000 km, but sometimes all kinds of problems can occur earlier. The rate of wear of the functional components of motor vehicles directly depends on the conditions of its operation.
The following points can serve as a signal that something is wrong with the motorbike clutch:
Depending on the severity of the failure, the problems described above can be solved either by repairing the vehicle's clutch or by replacing it completely. As for Chinese models of ATVs, here it is necessary to check whether the nuts on the clutch are securely fastened.
Poor assembly of motorcycles can also cause suspicious sounds in the variator area.
To change the clutch on a children's ATV by yourself, you will need:
In general, this procedure is quite simple and fast. In older models of ATVs, everything is somewhat more complicated. Before proceeding with the dismantling of any components of motor vehicles, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer.
Even in Chinese models of ATVs, the clutch boasts an impressive margin of safety, and therefore its breakdown often occurs as a result of improper use of this equipment.
The main causes of premature ATV clutch wear include:
The only way to prolong the life of your ATV clutch is to use it properly and carefully. It is advisable to use good oil, and do not forget about timely maintenance.
The use of high-quality clutch discs in the ATV ensures a smooth start of the vehicle, and also fully ensures reliable grip without slipping even under fairly high loads. The exception is children's electric ATVs, in which there is simply no clutch disc.
ATV clutch usually needs to be adjusted no more than once a year. Before starting work, place the vehicle on a special footboard.
The process of adjusting the clutch on a motorbike is quite simple, and consists of the following steps:
If necessary, refer to the user manual for assistance. If the cover prevents access to the clutch, then dismantle it; Since adjusting your ATV's clutch is easy, you can repeat this procedure as needed. In the vast majority of motorcycle models, this functional component is adjusted in a similar way. If there are certain nuances in the clutch setting, they are explained in detail in the official vehicle manual.
