Tire plugs permanent

How to Repair a Flat Tire with a Safe, Permanent Fix

So, you have a flat tire or one that’s leaking air. It’s not the end of the world. Luckily there are safe and cost-effective ways to properly repair most tire punctures. The purpose of this article is to show you the difference between a safe, permanent repair and a temporary string, plug or patch repair.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHSTA) and the Tire Industry Association (TIA), the only method to properly repair a tire puncture is to fill the injury with a repair stem and back the stem with a repair patch. This is commonly known as a combination repair or a patch/plug repair.

Patch/plug repairs are most often performed using a one-piece repair unit that combines the repair stem and cap (or patch) into one unit. However, special circumstances may require the use of a two-piece combination repair (ex. If the angle of the puncture exceeds 35 degrees). The repair is then permanently bonded to the inside of tire and through the injury channel using a cold, chemical vulcanizing process. The repair essentially becomes part of the tire, creating an air-tight seal that keeps air in and moisture and contaminants out (more on this procedure below).

Emergency roadside plug repairs are NOT intended to be a permanent tire repair. Plugs and string repairs are designed to get you back up and rolling long enough to get home or to the nearest service center to perform a proper tire repair.

The common misconception with plug and string repairs is that because they hold air, they are safe to use. While it is true that many plug repairs do a great job of keeping air in the tire, that’s only part of the equation. Because they’re not completely sealing the injury, plug repairs may allow air and moisture to penetrate the body of the tire. Over time, this could lead to a dangerous (or even deadly) blowout.

A tire repair that uses only a patch is also NOT considered proper or safe. A properly installed patch will do a great job of allowing the tire to hold air. However, similarly to the plug-only repair, the patch does not fill the injury channel. Therefore, air and moisture could seep into the tire from the tread surface and eventually damage the tire.

Only a proper patch/plug repair completely seals the puncture from inside the tire and through the entire injury channel. There are a few extra steps necessary to perform a proper tire repair in accordance with industry guidelines. We’ve developed a simple acronym to help organize and remember the steps: R.E.P.A.I.R.

• Remove: To begin, the tire must be removed from the wheel assembly. This allows for a thorough inspection of both the inside and outside of the tire.
• Evaluate: With the tire removed from the rim, the puncture can be thoroughly evaluated to determine the size and angle of the injury. It can also be determined if the puncture did any significant damage to the cords or belts.
• Prepare: Once the tire has been determined to be in good enough condition to repair, it is time to prep the rubber surfaces to remove any damage and contamination to allow for maximum repair unit adhesion. First, the injury is drilled out using a carbide cutter to strip away and damaged cords or belts. Next, the inner liner is cleaned and buffed to a slightly rough texture. This also helps maximize adhesion of the patch/plug repair.
• Apply: The next step is to apply vulcanizing fluid through the injury and to the buffed area of the inner liner. It is then allowed to air dry for 5-10 minutes.
• Install: The one- or two-piece repair is installed through the injury channel and the patch portion is thoroughly stitched to the inner liner using a tire stitcher to completely push out any air that may have gotten trapped under the repair. The over-buffed area of the inner liner is treated with a thin layer of rubber sealant, and the excess repair is trimmed to approximately ¼” above the tread surface.
• Return to Service: The tire is now ready to be remounted to the rim, inflated, balanced and mounted back on the vehicle.

There are a number of factors that may determine whether or not your tire is safe to repair. These factors fall into three main categories:

• Placement of the Injury: For passenger tires, puncture repairs must be within the crown area of the tire. Damage to the shoulder or sidewall cannot be repaired.
• Size of the Puncture: For fabric-ply passenger and light truck tires, the maximum repairable injury size is ¼” (6mm). For steel belted light truck, medium and heavy-duty truck tires, the maximum injury size is 3/8” (10mm).
• Overall Condition of the Tire: The condition of your tire may determine whether it is safe to repair. Excessive wear, casing separation, impact damage and other conditions may make it unsafe to properly repair your tire. For a more comprehensive list of repairable vs. non-repairable conditions visit our blog Can Your Tire Be Repaired?

The occasional flat or leaky tire is an unavoidable part of life. But, taking shortcuts to repair it can be dangerous to you and your passengers. Take the time and do the research to do the job right and/or find a reputable tire repair shop trained in proper tire repair procedure.

How Long Does A Tire Plug Last? Is It Safe To Plug In A Tire?

Tire plugging is the fastest method to repair a punctured car. Tire plugging uses a cord to prevent the airhead from escaping. If you are an experienced person, you can avoid damage to your car with simple tips.

So, how long does a tire plug last? Most manufacturers say that plug versions can last 7-10 years if installed correctly. 

Yet, this number is meant as a reference because you can’t always fix it perfectly. The article gathers useful knowledge and some of the most frequently asked questions about tire plugs. Let’s scroll down to read more information!

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It is the primary tool in the repair by plugging method. From the outside, it looks like a standard wire, and the structure is quite remarkable; it is a sticky object; depending on the case, the item can expand or contract to match the size of the hole.

Its working principle is also quite simple: after being inserted into the tire, the plug wire will sense the pressure, determine the shape of the wound, and then automatically expand to adapt.

In addition, the material that makes the wire must be guaranteed to meet the standards, confirming the certainty so that after the air is pumped in, there will be no problems.

There is no denying the convenience that the plug method brings, and you can even repair it without removing the tire from the rim. You can even plug in the tire in some exceptional cases, even when the wheels are connected.

When a vehicle is repaired correctly and maintained, a plug’s life span can last up to 7-10 years. It is an unbelievable number for a wheel that has been repairable.

However, manufacturers advise users not to overdo patching like this in practice. When using too many repair measures, the impact will affect the inherent functions, causing deflation and explosion. 

When traveling on the road, the car’s wheels have problems, do not rush to decide when the experience is not proficient; the best way is to take the car to a repair center to have expert advice on the appropriate repair method.

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Plugging or patching is only a temporary measure before you have enough time to change into a new tire. The life of a tire after plugging can last from 7-10 years or 25,000 miles; no one can be sure that there will not be any problems. 

Plugging in tires will be a good idea, even effective if the wheel is in an emergency that needs to be moved.

You can safely use your plugged-in tires when traveling in a specific section of the road. Unlike a spare tire, which has a short life, it is possible to prevent air from escaping through a previous puncture completely with a plug repair method.

Via many surveys, experts think there is a better measure than a plug – radial patch. It is a suitable method available on almost all popular tires on the market.

The process takes about 30 minutes while using a wire to insert the air hole takes up a few minutes. Both must be vulcanized to reinforce and increase the rubber surface’s certainty.

As long as the wound has adequately been reinforced, you are entirely safe traveling by car with tires. The safest time to use is not too long from when you repair using the above method.

 Besides, some notes have also ensured stability when operating this type. 

However, do not drive when there is a wound near the wall or on the side of the wheel; if the plug diameter exceeds ¼ inch, it is best to replace the tires. 

Finally, the body’s weight, do not use plug tires to carry heavy objects; this inadvertently puts pressure on the wheels when the tires are weak.

Here are some ways to help you better understand the plugging process.

• Fill the tires with air, press to see if the pressure has reached the standard when you feel the hardness, then ok.
• Dilute the soap and water solution and spray it all over the surface of the wheel, where there are air bubbles; that’s where the puncture is.

This step does not require you to remove the wheel altogether, but you can use a jack to support the wheel’s weight, so it is pretty easy to do the following steps.

• Use pliers to pick up the sharp object, locating the hole.

• Use a T-tool to close the hole, of course, before doing this step, and you need to sand around the wound.
• Pierce the damage to an appropriate extent, once the spot is round.
• If the pin is too small to be reamed, use a hand drill with a smaller tip to expand and then machine the whole face.

• Prepare a strip of plugs from the kit; insert the repaired string into the eyelet (plug tool). 
• Use pliers to pull the thread through the hook to a certain length.
• Apply a layer of cement powder to cover the thermos strip and the hole in the car’s body.

• Press the plug firmly into the hole.
• After the pin has entered the muscle a certain length, leave about an inch outside the wheel surface, slowly remove the plug.  
• End slot in eyelet, allowing free fall as long as the pin goes into the tire.

• Fill the tires with air again, and the required pressure index is 10% lower than the standard.
• Spray a layer of solution all over the face to check the level of leakage occurs again or not.

• Use a piece of paper to wipe off the cement coating; let it cool down to dry completely (about 5 minutes).
• Use a cutter to cut the cord, leaving only about ⅛ inch.

• Continue to spray a layer of solution on the surface; check for the last time to see if the gas is still fizzed.
• Remove the auxiliary equipment, to let the car return to its original state.

The above article has provided you with knowledge related to plugging or manipulations to perform this process.

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