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KEN-TOOL
Model # TR9 Country of Origin USA. Country of Origin is subject to change.
These four-way lug nut wrenches have an X-shaped handle that allows for two-handed leverage to break loose stubborn lug nuts compared to less leverage generated with an L-shaped lug wrench.
Wrenches come with a different size socket on each end of the handle.
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KEN-TOOL
Country of Origin USA.
Country of Origin is subject to change.
These four-way lug nut wrenches have an X-shaped handle that allows for two-handed leverage to break loose stubborn lug nuts compared to less leverage generated with an L-shaped lug wrench. Wrenches come with a different size socket on each end of the handle.
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How do I loosen car tire nuts (so I can change tires) if they are really stuck?
I tried to turn the wrench provided, even while standing and jumping on it.
It worked for 4 nuts, but not for the bottom one.
I've heard of using Rust Remover / Blaster, but I can't see much rust and the tires aren't too old if I remember correctly.
Another recommendation I see is to use long pipe on the wrench handle for more torque. But even with just a wrench, I seem to be deforming the spare wrench with my efforts!
Some forums recommend using wrench with 4 lugs , but they don't say how to use it, or why they are better than a standard wrench. Can they give me more torque than jumping on a standard wrench?
Finally, I hope to get an answer other than take it with you to the store. I know I can do this, but I'm trying to avoid towing costs.
tires stuck-bolt lug-nut
— Stephen
source
Answers:
Remember that clamp nuts are exposed to literally every element that can cause corrosion.
It looks like your last nut is stuck due to rust or oxidation that you can't see. Here's how I usually approach a badly stuck nut:
Check your safety gear: eye protection, jack stands, everything so you don't get killed when that wheel finally comes loose.
Pull out penetrating oil (aka rust blaster). Really soak the bolt and nut. Now go away and let it soak in, perhaps for hours.
Attach the correct socket to the switch. This is a completely different beast from stock tire iron. Its handle is much more durable and is unlikely to flex under the torque you are about to apply. Remember, carefully consider what will happen when the nut releases. If you pull, it's not hard to get hit in the face. If you're pushing, don't let your fingers cut into the garage floor or other components. I have struggled with both methods when I have struggled with bolts (never worse than giving my wife a reason to pierce me, thankfully).
Try removing the nut.
Not working? Take a long piece of steel pipe, put it on the end of the jumper to increase the lever arm moment, and try again.
When I get to this point, I usually switch between oil penetrating and extra long bridging. Eventually things disappear after a long enough period of time HULK SMASH .
NOTE: When working on the exhaust nuts and bolts, the bolt will lock over time with sufficient torque. This is less likely with much stronger wheel studs.
— Bob Cross
source
There are several things you can do to loosen the nut before turning it:
grease or rust fuse . Keep things wet and give them time to work.
circulation heat .
Heat it up (gently) and let it cool down. Repetition. If you lubricate the oil and point a propane torch at it, you can start a fire, so be careful. It is not so important to heat only the nut or just the stud - the cycles will bring a lot of benefits.
vibrations and shocks . Break the nut with a wrench. You don't need to hit hard; hitting again and again works. This can break down the corrosion and also help the grease get in.
There are a number of tools designed for effective use of strokes.
The Pocket Impact Wrench ($30) is an easy tool to go around just for this purpose. You attach the socket, slide it over the clamp nut, screw it in, and hit it with a hammer. Repetition. You can do this once a minute as the lubricating oil advances and apply heat in between.
Cordless impact drivers 9 available0247 up to $100 which I use for carpentry that can do the job as well. If you already have a cordless drill, you can get an impact driver that uses the same battery.
Loud!
Finally, you can do what the pros do - use the Air Impact Wrench . You can rent one for one use.
Impact tools must be used with special impact resistant sockets. They use stronger steel and are chromium-free, so they are less prone to breakage. Eye protection is still a good idea.
Whenever I change a tyre, I first break each mounting nut while the car is on the ground with the parking brake set to keep everything stable.
When the carnation is in a really bad state, even after you break things you will lose, you may have to fight to the end. It is very similar to cutting new threads. In this case back off after every 1/4 turn and keep adding more grease.
— Jay Bazuzi
source
If you're trying to use a standard wrench, go out and buy the right one! I've never seen this product be useful, and some of them are so bad they could be made out of chocolate.
..
The four-sided key is simply a cross-shaped bar with four different sizes on the ends. You use the right size for your nuts and then you actually get a t bar which means you can use both hands to get more leverage.
However, I prefer the telescopic wrench. They usually extend from 1 to 2 feet and come with a set of nut sockets in different sizes. Again, they just allow you to get more leverage than a standard wrench, but they are easier to store than a 4-way wrench, and using a shorter length to re-tighten the nuts avoids over-tightening (although as stated in the comment above) suggests that you have to really use a torque wrench to tighten them properly).
Another tip is to make sure your tire supplier uses a torque wrench when they fit your tires - many use an air gun which causes the nuts to be overtightened (most likely the cause of your current problem).
— Nick C
source
Learn from my mistake!! I tried using four different chisels to "counter-rotate" the stuck nut.
NEVER do this What happens is that the force of the chisel drives the annular ring of the bottom of the nut into the well where the curved surface normally sits. The rest of the nut is finally punched out and you are SET as the round ring is screwed in and wedged into the small well. Then you have to drill and drill, like a 5/32 drill, a whole bunch of holes and finally pull out the parts. You can run it around a block with very loose nuts and that shxxty O-ring is wedged in there. Try all other methods, heat it up, turn it on and turn a smaller socket, screw the 2nd nut on the bad nut and take them off together, whatever, BUT don't pull your chisels out!!!!! You will be blowing for almost a whole day using the chisel method and you will have to buy a new stud and maybe a rim!!!
— Patrick Driscoll
source
As mentioned by Bob Cross, use the switch.
I have had to use them to remove brake calipers in the past. In the past, I have not seen such a thing as a switch that could be put up for sale in the hardware stores where I live.
I improvised a switch using one of those metal pipes that are used for running electrical wires. Just take your ratchet with you to the store and find the right size tube that fits well on the ratchet handle.
— Rice flour biscuits
source
All answers work.
But what works best for me (especially on the side of the road!), is a 4-way tire wrench combined with the screw jack that all cars have.
Place the correct size socket in the wheel lug (nut). Position it as close to horizontal as possible. At the other end of the four-way tire wrench, place a screw-type jack and raise the height to hold the four-way tire wrench in a horizontal position.
You now have a stable platform. Two free arms of the 4-way tire wrench are available for operation.
Place your foot on the free lever which will turn the tip/wrench counterclockwise. With your hand on the car to keep your balance, stand on your free hand as close to the end as possible with all your weight, and kick down if necessary.
I like this method because you don't have to worry about cutting off the edges of the lug/nut and destroying it.
— Aaron
source
As a last resort... Heat the nut and it will expand. This can help loosen it, but only try this after you've sprayed it with a rust-removing dull material. If you see the other side, cool the tip and this will help the process. Again, as a last resort.
— FossilizedCarlos
source
One.
Don't jump on it. You run the risk of losing the eye and stud, in which case you will not be able to remove the tire and must replace the stud.
Two. Never use grease, silicone, or wd40 on tire lugs or spikes. The stud remains lubricated and the lug is free to rotate when changing the tire.
You just need to not drag them out in the first place. Some stores do this. And have a good iron wheel with a shoulder. Apply smooth gradual torque rather than sudden aggressive torque such as jumping or hitting with a hammer. These things can do more harm than good, and people who read this and follow this advice will find themselves stranded on the side of the highway after removing a tip or stud. my $.02
— Matt
source
Rotating the tire so that the stuck/frozen nut is on top (12 o'clock) did it for me.
Another attempt with a tube extension on a tire wrench and nut "cracked" and loosened. This is actually the easiest and should be the FIRST alternative in any of the answers above. I had already applied nut loosener fluid to the stud and almost "rounded off" the corners of the nut with a pressure wrench, which could make removal impossible except as an expensive garage repair.
— VPA
source
I put the pipe on the handle of a standard wrench and jumped on it. I thought I was turning a nut, but I flipped it with a wrench (1/2" diameter handle). Then I tried better keys, but without success. I carefully put the rest of the nuts on and drove about 4 miles. It made it. But if you have a flat tire, this is not a solution! Perhaps if you drove 30 feet through the flat it would loosen the nut without damaging the tire.
— Martin Farrell
source
I just had this problem. I got all of them freely, but one at the bottom. I've tried everything that doesn't work. Lifting it, removed it from the gear train, turned the wheel so that the nut was on top. Everything went without problems.
— Tarran
source
Heating the stud with an acetylene torch helped me a lot. Worked days and days with lintels up to 8 feet long, and nothing worked. Even broke 3 heavy duty 1/2" drive shock sockets. It took me a few tries to get the nuts off the burner and then the tires, but the heat definitely works. I wouldn't bother trying unless it's a last resort.
— Craig
source
I had some stubborn nuts on my Range Rover. I always have problems. Some nuts do not accept a socket on a wrench, as they have deformed over time. I'm currently using a ring wrench.
In desperation, I tried to use my jack. I placed a ring wrench on the nut and used a jack to loosen the nuts just enough to turn by hand. But it didn't work on one nut. The pressure associated with this made me very nervous, so I backed off and came here for other ideas.
— Nick Houghton
source
If you didn't remove the other four in the correct order, it might help to put them back in place and tighten them up, then try to pry the stuck one off.
Then hack them all in the correct order. For five nuts, the correct order is as if you were drawing a star: go around and hit every second nut. After each of them just starts to turn, go back and loosen them even more.
It may happen that if the wheel does not rotate evenly, it may tilt slightly, and this may lead to uneven forces on the last nut, making it difficult to remove.
In addition to the correct order, use a 4-sided iron wheel and plenty of torque. See other answers.
— EL_DON
source
Inflated the wheel with an electric pump for a slow puncture and then went to the garage to fix it, but forgot to take the torque wrench with me. Got the assembler to use a T-bar and a 21mm socket to tighten the nuts and then drove home to set the nuts to the recommended 80 lb ft only to find out that the first try I tried wouldn't go.
even standing on a long T-bar. I ended up winding my 21" torque wrench progressively until it was 185 lb ft and stood on it before the nut moved slowly without breaking the torque wrench. Luckily, the maximum setting was 220 lb ft, as I was worried that it was about to go back to the garage.
— Whale
source
Big T-bar might be the answer. I've found that if you tilt the object at a 45 degree angle, put your foot on the bottom end and your hand on the top end, you can use your body weight to put a huge amount of torque on the nut without major flare/nut misalignment.
— user23567
source
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