The most commonly asked question amongst truck owners and the 4WD community is, what are the largest/biggest tires you can fit on your truck. Tire upgrades are usually the first thing most truck owners do and if you own a Ram 1500 with the radius arm type suspension (2013-Present) then you’d probably want to know the answer to this question before you run out and drop a load on tires that won’t fit.
What are the biggest tires you can fit on a sock Ram 1500? The biggest tire you can fit without any additional modification is a 35”. If you are prepared to do a bit of trimming you can fit 37″. 39-inch and bigger require fender rolling, body mount trimming, and wheel-well cutting.
The suspension is not a major limiting factor when it comes to fitting bigger tires. With that being said, the recommendations you will get here are not to check what the maximum size wheel you can fit with limited travel and mobility, but rather what the most practical size is to fit for on-road, off-road, and over-landing adventure applications.
At the end of the day, you still want all the practicality of your truck, and your tire size upgrade should enhance your truck’s abilities and capability, not detract from it. You still want full articulation and droop with maximum suspension travel.
So let’s get into it and see what exactly you need to be aware of when fitting bigger tires on your Ram 1500 with a stock suspension.
Table of Contents
Keep in mind, once you fit a larger tire on your stock suspension and later decide to upgrade the suspension, you won’t need to change anything in terms of bump stops, levels, wheel spacers, or make any wheel-well modifications.
This is a hassle-free upgrade that allows for a wider and longer footprint, enhancing the truck’s off-road capability while still taking advantage of its suspension travel.
So, the biggest tire recommended for a Ram 1500 with factory stock suspension is 35” x12.
50 on
factory stock rims.
This allows you full wheel lock without any trimming, rub, grinding away body panels, or adjustment of suspension components. This is a straight bolt-on-and-go tire option with only a speedometer adjustment needed to calibrate the reading.
The simple answer is, yes. As mentioned above, the 35” x12.5 is the biggest wheel you can fit without hampering off-road performance or any body-panel trimming required to make them fit on the stock wheels.
So with a 33” tire, it will definitely fit provided it has the correct offset to clear the brake calipers. The more positive the offset, the closer the inside of the wheel is aligned with the centerline of the tire.
Below are some measurements to help you understand the differences between a 33” and 35”
| Measurement | 33-Inch | 35-inch | Difference |
| Diameter | 285/75/17 | 305/75/17 | +7% |
| Width | 11. 2” | 12” | +7.1” |
| Sidewall | 7.9” | 9” | 13.9” |
| Circumference | 102.7” | 109.9” | +7% |
| Revs/Mile | 617 | 576 | -41 |
I find this tool very useful when determining tire size differences and what effect it has on your truck: https://tiresize.com/comparison/
Next, let’s investigate the biggest tires you can possibly squeeze on a Ram 1500 with a stock suspension.
So this is probably one of the most commonly asked questions on all discussion forums and FB groups. Every guy wants to know what the biggest tires are he can get away with on a factory stock suspension and stock wheels.
Fitting a 37″ is the biggest size on stock rims, If you are prepared to live with the following:
The biggest tire you can fit on a Ram 1500 with stock rims are 37”x12.
5
As mentioned, you will need to do a little bit of trimming on the inside fender liner. This applies to 2500, 3500, and Power Wagon stock wheels. The Power Wagon wheel has a slight advantage since it has a wider offset wheel in stock form, meaning there is a bit more backspace clearance.
Fitting aftermarket wheels when upgrading your tires is always a smarter move. It allows for better backspacing while not forfeiting too much in terms of offset. Provided you don’t go to a very negative offset where the wheels protrude extensively.
A wider stance wheel with a negative offset would probably look insane, however, you’ll need to start doing a lot of fender flair trimming which are more permanent modifications.
Besides, there could be some legality issues as well. This could also pose a problem if you decide to sell the vehicle at a later stage.
When selecting an aftermarket rim, you want to pay particular attention to the offset of the rim. The offset can be described as the distance between the inside face of the rim to the centerline of the tire. The measurement where the rim meets the hub, to the center of the tire is the offset measurement.
A more positive offset (larger backspacing) moves the mounting surface closer to the outside of the wheel which will tuck the wheel further under the truck. A more negative offset (smaller backspacing) moves the mounting surface closer to the inside of the wheel which will push the wheel further out from the truck.
When shopping around for your aftermarket rim, try and stay between an offset measurement of +18mm to +27mm.
This will allow for full articulation/wheel travel. Fitting 0 to (-) negative offset wheels might look aesthetically pleasing, however, it doesn’t translate well when venturing off-road.
If you decide to go -18 offset rims, you’ll be required to cut a lot of sheet metal and roil the arches to make them fit nicely without rubbing. These are permanent modifications that are hard to reverse and are not highly recommended.
Once you install a leveling kit on the Ram you are essentially increasing the wheel well area which will allow for a bigger tire. Now it also depends on how much of a lift you are planning, but by way of example, if you go with a 2” lift you could get away with a 35×12.50×20. There will be no rubbing or touching against the UCA or fenders.
The biggest tire you could fit on a 2019 Ram 1500 with a leveling kit is 35×12.5×20. Alternatively a 39” with a 12.5×17.
Obviously, this is purely for aesthetics and will drastically reduce your MPG and off-road performance. This is not a recommended upgrade if you ever plan to venture off-road.
Ram 1500 2” Front leveling kit
Full 2” Lift Kit
Adjustable Shocks
Rough Country 2″ Leveling Lift Kit For Dodge Ram 1500, Suspension Parts | 2012-2018 Dodge Ram 1500,
Warn Fender Flare Set For 13-18 Ram 1500, Satin Black, Set Of 4 | 2013-2018 RAM 1500, W102028
Teraflex Tow Haul Adjustable Leveling System, Suspension Parts | 2009-Current Dodge Ram 1500,
Going bigger tires might look awesome, however, you want to limit how big you go, especially if you still want to maintain full functionality of your truck.
Bigger isn’t always better since the bigger you go, the more modifications you’ll need to make as well as having to calibrate/adjust your speedometer reading. Don’t forget, lower MPG. So, for the best all-round upgrade, we recommend not going bigger than 37”
Are you on the hunt for new tires? Maybe you just want to see what will fit your model. Here is a quick guide to what tires sizes RAM uses. Plus, some information on how to go a bit larger.
Before we begin, we have a bit of a disclaimer. With RAM or Dodge building trucks for decades, this guide will attempt to address many of the models out there. However, we won’t be able to hit every single one and we will only be addressing 1990 and newer trucks. Lastly, this is a “guide” and it is always recommended to double-check with a tire store and/or reseller.
OEM Tire Sizes – RAMLug Nut PatternsOne thing that is pretty helpful to know when looking for tires is the lug nut pattern can tell you whether or not your truck and/or rim is setup for a 2wd or 4wd.
The rule of thumb is that 6 lug patterns (wheels with 6 lug nuts) are for 4wd and 5 lug patterns are more common for 2wd.
Lift kits are great and many trucks really improve their appearance with them. However, there is an additional expense of adding the kit. If you want to raise the truck without adding the lift, putting on larger tires is the quick option.
Most trucks come with the ability to add a larger tire with the wheel well openings. By larger, we mean an extra inch or so. You simply can’t throw a large tire in there without encountering rubbing when turning or driving – that requires a lift.
If you want to go larger keep the following in mind:
The first rule of thumb is the 3% Height and Width or “plus 1” rule. This generally means that you can increase your tire height and width by 3% without having to do a lift or leveling kit.
Now, the 3% is great except that not every tire manufacture offers a tire that is exactly that much larger. This is why the plus 1 name came into existence.
The plus 1 states: 1” Lift = 1” Height. This is pretty self-explanatory. You can go 1” inch taller on the tire for each inch of lift. However, this doesn’t apply to width. If you increase width, you may need different backspacing for your wheels.
Note: The recommendations made below are based on factory wheels. If you have an upgraded rim with different backspacing, you will be able to increase to a wider tire.
Max tire sizes are:
1.5-2″ Leveling Kit (or less)
Note when installing a leveling kit you might be able to fit wider tires than we have listed. These tires can be trimed to fit.
Max tire sizes are:
3″ Lift Kit
If you add a 3″ lift kit, your options get better. Yet, the wideness still could be a concern requiring trimming.
Max tire sizes are:
Third Generation – 2002-2008
No Lift Kit
Max tire sizes are:
1.5-2″ Leveling Kit (or less)
Max tire sizes are:
3″ Lift Kit
Max tire sizes are:
Lastly, remember that tire makers build all sorts of tires. This means you may not be able to find the exact tire for BOTH height and width when shopping for new tires.
These days it is a lot easier to find tires. Your first step should be online research at different online outlets. Then, check out your local brick and mortar tire shop. In a lot of cases, these brick and mortar stores will give you some good information and/or have a coupon which offsets the online savings.
Car make: Brand Acura Alfa Romeo Aston Martin Audi Bentley bmw Brilliance Buick byd Cadillac changan Chery Chevrolet Chrysler Citroen Daewoo Daihatsu Datsun Dodge Dongfeng Ds Dw Evolute Exeed FAW Ferrari fiat Ford Foton gac Geely Genesis Great Wall hafei Haima Haval hawtai Honda Hummer Hyundai Infiniti Iran khodro Isuzu Iveco Jac Jaguar Jeep Kia Lamborghini Lancia Land Rover Lexus Lifan Lincoln lotus Maserati Maybach Mazda Mercedes MG Mini Mitsubishi Nissan Omoda Opel Peugeot Pontiac Porsche Ravon Renault Rolls Royce Rolls Royce Rover Saab seat Skoda Smart ssangyong Subaru Suzuki Tesla Toyota Volkswagen Volvo Vortex (tagaz) ZAZ Zotye AZLK VAZ GAS OKA TaGAZ UAZ
Model: Model Avenger Caliber caravan Challenger Charger Dakota Durango Grand Caravan Intrepid Journey Magnum neon Nitro Ram 1500 Ram 2500 Ram 3500 Stratus Viper
Modification: Modification
Year: Year
Body: Body
… or build the touring ourselves
The idea to buy a new bike periodically appeared and then disappeared throughout the past year.
The choice fluctuated between cyclocross and road racing, but after weighing the pros and cons, and they are best weighed when pedaling, I came to disappointing conclusions.
Cyclocross is a betrayal. "For what? Why am I worse?" - my old bike will say and he will be right.
Road bike - in my understanding, this is not a bicycle, but rather a sports equipment, which must always be in perfect technical condition. Clean the chain with cotton swabs? Nice try, highwayman, but for now the answer is no.
But I still wanted to change and I decided to do touring.
Touring is a class of bicycles designed for autonomous tourism, but the technical part is secondary here. Touring is first and foremost a state of mind.
When you look at the map for hours or can't close Goggle Earth late at night, this is exactly the case. Here are some meditation photos.
Are you ready? So now we turn to the technical side of the issue.
A little bit of internet digging turned up a few touring models that I liked.
Cinelli HoBootleg
Kona Sutra
Trek 520
Handsome, but they cost even in foreign countries about 1500 evergreens. Too much…
What do they have in common for touring
1) chrome long frame
2) rigid rigid fork
3) road bar handlebar
4) 28" wheels
5) two racks or options for their installation
6) simple, unpretentious and reliable components
And which of these do I already have on the basis of my 9-year-old hybrid:
1) long, but aluminum - this is the biggest minus in my alteration
2)
3)
can be installed 4)
5) yes
6) the old ones were like that, the new ones, I hope, will be no worse
I started from the steering wheel, when suddenly
1.
Landing geometry. Taking forward the road ram, taking into account the length of the brake levers, is greater than that of a straight steering wheel. Therefore, if you do not change anything, you will have to go with your hands stretched far ahead. The solution is to replace the stem with a shorter one and/or with a different angle.
2. Handlebar clamp diameter. My hybrid used the old MTB standard 25.4mm, while road handlebars have a 26mm clamp (old standard) or 31.8mm. The solution is again to replace the stem.
3. Brake lever travel. Road machines work with caliper or disc brakes and therefore pull less cable when braking, but I have full-size vibrakes that require more cable travel to work properly. The solution is to get mini vee breaks or ditch the road guns and get brake levers suitable for full sized vee breaks.
| Tektro 926AL |
4.
Compatibility of derailleurs and shifters. I won’t say for sure here, but people write about the incompatibility of road pistols and speed switches from MTV. I didn’t want to put gentle road shifters on the touring. The solution is to put up with the use of road shifters or use tail shifters.
| Shimano Dura Ace 7700 |
5. If you still decide to install road derailleurs, then you must take into account that the front road derailleurs work only with a lower cable entry. On my bike, all the cables are routed on top the old fashioned way. The solution is to install a special roller on the seat tube below the derailleur.
6. Cables. The size and shape of the heads of MTV and highway brake cables are not the same, so they will definitely need to be replaced. The shifter cables will also likely need to be replaced due to the change in length compared to the hybrid's straight handlebar.
Having solved these questions, I got this steering wheel
I have a 1 1/8" threaded yoke so I needed a BBB BHP-21 28.6-25.4mm extension to install the stem.
The BBB BHP-21 adapter disappointed me. Firstly, its height was insufficient due to which the steering wheel was located too low and the landing became very sporty. Secondly, when I tried to lower it into the steering to a lesser depth than allowed, it began to show a tendency to self-unscrew (on a 200-kilometer brevet, the steering wheel turned slightly relative to the fork in motion) and began to creak terribly under load.
I had to solve this problem in a radical way - to change the archaic threaded fork to the modern chromoly Surly Cross Check.
And let me tell you, this fork is now one of the coolest things about a bike. Why is she good?
Surly Cross Check combined with the FSA Pig head tube and Deda Logo stem showed me just how squeaky, wobbly and wobbly the old threaded fork and adjustable stem were.
During the first ride, I noticed that the bike was moving too smoothly over small bumps, and I thought about a flat front tire. I stopped, but the pressure was normal. And then it dawned on me that this softness of the course is the merit of the new fork. Now I know for sure that chromel is the best material for touring. If only one fork gives such a feeling, then you will probably ride on a chrome frame like on a sofa.
Now I do not need to hang additional Tubus brackets for the trunk on the fork, because. Surly Cross Check 1-1/8" has all the necessary holes. A trifle, but nice.
And a few words about the length of the stem. Through trial and error, I determined that the stem under the ram bar should be 40 mm shorter than the stem for a straight bar
And also a little about the height of the steering wheel.
Straight handlebars usually have a slight rise, so the grips on it are located above its attachment point in the stem, and the horns are even higher. A feature of the ram will be that the steering wheel and handles are located at the same height as the extension, that is, ceteris paribus, it will be lower than the straight one.
Look at the photo. Here I have 8 spacers of 10 mm, and the fit is about the same as it was on a straight handlebar. Will you have such a margin for head tube height?
To work with standard vi-breaks, I installed Tektro RL520 brake levers, and for shifting gears - Shimano Dura Ace 7700 end shifters that work with any MTV rear derailleurs for 8 or 9 speeds. The front derailleur for the Dura Ace 7700 can be set to any, since its shifter is friction and does not have fixed positions.
Having dealt with the steering wheel, you can proceed to the transmission.
The 8-speed HG50 13-23 cassette has been replaced with the same cassette, but 9-speed with 14-25 teeth.
I installed the derailleur from an old 9-speed Deore XT M771 Medium Cage series, but since it does not have a standard screw for adjusting the cable tension, I had to buy a BBB BCB-96 regulator separately and plug it into this derailleur.
Last season I skated on the SRAM PC950 chain and was pleased with it, so now I put the same one, but out of 9- high-speed PC951 series.
At the front there is a Shimano Deore M590 mountain system with 44.32.22 chainrings, no longer the new Shimano M520 contact pedals and, for symmetry, a Deore XT M770 derailleur.
I have vague doubts about the Deore M590 system and there are three reasons for them:
1) it uses an integrated axle and a newfangled HollowTech II carriage, which, judging by the reviews on the Internet, has a noticeably smaller resource compared to the old square;
2) large and medium stars of the system - aluminum;
3) an approximate quote from the instructions: "The two bolts of the right connecting rod must be tightened in several steps and with the same torque (a torque wrench is needed), and also periodically tightened, otherwise it (the right connecting rod) may fall off under load.
