Shinko isn’t as well-recognized a motorcycle tire brand as the likes of Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelli or Dunlop. Part of that is because the company is relatively new to the game. The Shinko Group was founded in Japan in 1946, producing bicycle tires and tubes as the country emerged from the Second World War. Shinko didn’t really get into motorcycles, however, until 1998, when it acquired the tire technology and molds from Yokohama.
The company continues to build on the foundation of Yokohama’s technology, conducting R&D in Japan. Shinko tires are made in South Korea, with the company churning out about 200,000 tires each month.
Though it is a bit of an underdog in the motorcycle tire market, Shinko has been able to establish a niche by offering affordable prices compared to the larger brands, while still offering solid performance.
Shinko’s selection of sportbike tires isn’t very large. When it comes to high performance competition, Shinko actually specializes more in drag racing rubber than tires that need to handle corners.
If you’re looking for a Shinko sportbike tire, you may want to consider the 010 Apex. The radials have an intermediate compound with a tread area designed for high-speed cornering. The front tires are Aramid belted while the rear tires feature Zero Degree Joint-Less Steel Belted (JLSB) technology for a stronger carcass and added stability.
For track use, you may prefer the 003 Stealth radial which uses a softer compound, but for regular street use, the Apex tires will offer better durability.
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The SR777 is probably Shinko’s most popular cruiser tire, and is offered in a number of sizes for both heavyweight and mid-sized models. The SR777s are Aramid belted for added stability and added load capacity, and Shinko offers a Heavy Duty version with a reinforced carcass for larger cruisers and baggers.
The tread design includes siping and grooves for improving traction in both wet and dry conditions.
In addition to the black wall version, Shinko also offers the SR777 with white walls for a more classic look. The SR777s are also available with a reflective wall version pictured above. In daylight, the Reflector appear black, but at night, the the sidewall reflects light for better visibility in the dark.
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The Shinko 705 is a 70% street, 30% off-road dual sport tire, with an all-around rubber compound to handle a wide range of terrain and weather conditions. The blocky, tear-resistant tread can handle light trail riding, while offering smooth running on paved roads.
Most 705 tires are biased ply with the exception of the 150/70R18 rear tire size which uses a Zero Degree JLSB radial construction for added strength and stability.
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The 016 Verge 2X is a dual compound sport-touring tire (and the only dual compound tire street tire in the company’s lineup), offering a balance of good traction and long mileage.
Like its single compound predecessor, the 011 Verge tire, the 016 is zero degree JLSB radial, promising added stability and strength. The 016 also offers additional tread siping compared to the 011s, promising better grip in wet conditions. According to Shinko, the tread profile is designed for quick transitions and extra lean angle.
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For riders looking for a more vintage look, Shinko offers the 240 Classic. With a 90% aspect ratio and classic profile and sawtooth tread pattern, the 240 Classics will help complete a old school custom or cafe racer look.
Beneath the retro styling is modern tire technology, with a four-ply carcass construction and an Aramid belt for improved grip and durability.
The Shinko 240 Classic is available in black wall, white wall or double stripe white wall versions.
Shinko also offers a Super Classic 270 tire that offers a similar look, but it uses a nylon carcass and is rated at a lower speed than the 240.
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Are Shinko tires any good?
Shinko tires may not have the latest in motorcycle tire technology compared to larger brands like Michelin or Dunlop, but they do offer pretty decent quality at much more affordable prices. If you want the best tires available, you’ll probably look elsewhere, but if you want good value, Shinko tires are a good option.
Where are Shinko tires made?
Shinko produces its tires in South Korea, with Korean production and quality control standards. The tires are designed in Japan, with the help of ongoing testing at warehouses across the world including in the U.S.A., where its American importer Western Power Sports has locations in Idaho, California, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Texas and Tennessee.
How many miles can you get out of a Shinko motorcycle tire?
The answer to that depends on the specific tire, your riding style, and how often you ride. Most Shinko tires use Aramid belts or a Zero degree joint-less steel belted construction for added durability.
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Most of the time, stories at Ultimate Motorcycling are carefully planned and thought out—other times, we fall into them. In this case, it’s the latter.I noticed a well-used Honda Shadow Aero 750 in the neighborhood a few times, and that it had a pair of badly cracking aged Dunlop tires. Seeing the unsafe situation, I asked around and discovered that a friend of a neighbor owned it.
Eventually, I met up with the owner and pointed out the situation. He acknowledged the problem, but explained that finances were preventing replacements. My mind immediately started revving, and told me that he would be a perfect test rider for something we infrequently test—budget tires.
Shinko 777 Motorcycle Tire ReviewI got him a set of cruiser-friendly Shinko 777 tires with instructions to tell me if he could notice a difference, and if the wallet-friendly rubber met his standards as a daily commuter. In case you are not familiar with the Shinko name, the company has been around for 70 years and is based in Osaka, Japan. The tires are made in South Korea, using motorcycle tire technology and molds purchased from Yokohama. In addition to cruiser tires, Shinko also makes tires for all genres of motorcycles, including scooters.A few months and a couple thousand miles later, the verdict was in—he loves them.Reporting back, his favorite aspect of the Shinko 777 tires is the ride. He says that the Honda Shadow Aero rides more smoothly than before—no shock considered the old tires were rock hard—and it made the motorcycle feel new.While he didn’t feel any difference in acceleration, braking was stronger and more secure. Again, supple rubber is crucial to effective braking, and the Shinko 777 tires gave him feedback that he found impressive.Additionally, freeway performance improved, as the Shinko 777s didn’t wander on the rain grooves. As he rides to work rather than for pleasure, he didn’t do any canyon or touring testing.
However, he said he felt much better cornering on the 777s than on the old tires. Suffice to say, our Honda Shadow Aero 750 owner was extremely happy with the Shinko 777 tires.Certainly, the Shinko 777 tires are basic. They are only H rated for speed (130 mph, which the Aero will never see), and the Aramid-belted tires are four-ply design. The load index is well within the weight of the Aero with two riders aboard. There is also an H.D. version of the 777 that can handle big-inch touring bikes, as well as whitewall 777s.The Shinko 777 tires have two primary appeals—price and longevity. Although the MSRP for the 120/90 x 17 front is $122 and the 160/80 x 15 rear is $139, shopping around can drop those prices by about one-third—so a pair of 777s for a Honda Shadow Aero can be had for less than $175. Initial inspections of the rubber shows very little wear, so we expect these tires to last a long time in this application.The moral to the story is that if you’re going to ride a motorcycle, safe tires are a must.
If you have modest tire requirements, along with modest means, less expensive tires such as the Shinko 777s are perfectly capable of upgrading a ride and increasing personal safety.Story from August issue of Ultimate Motorcycling magazine; subscribe through our free app.
In the mid-forties of the XX century, Shinko Rubber Industrial appeared in Japan. At first, Shinko produced bicycle tires, but 30 years later acquired a license to launch Yokohama bike tires. A plant appeared in Kyang Nam, South Korea, which still produces Shinko tires to this day. Over the years, Shinko's products have been constantly improved, which is facilitated by the presence of our own testing laboratory.
At the end of 1980, production improvement activities were completed, allowing Shinko to produce 1 million tires and 1.2 million tires per month. By 1988 the numbers had increased to 1.85 and 2.5 million respectively.
Today, under the Shinko brand, motor tires are produced for various types of motorcycles, as well as scooters. Among them are the famous Golden Tire, designed specifically for one of the most famous Italian championships.
Motorcyclists call them a great, affordable alternative to expensive brands. For more than half a century, Shinko has been implementing the latest technologies, which allows us to make wheels for bikes with a high level of quality. Their price is quite affordable for motorists, who note that the Shinko's behavior on the road is simply flawless.
This is not surprising, because the basis for Shinko rubber was the best examples of Yokohama, with which Shinko can still compete in popularity, being more affordable.
European consumers report that South Korean Shinko tires are suitable for the climate in their countries. Shinko perform well on wet tracks, the chemical composition of their rubber is such that it will not lose its softness even after several years of intensive use. On Russian roads, under reasonable loads, Shinko tires can withstand up to two years.
Considering the needs of motorists, Shinko produces chamber and tubeless tires, its models and tread pattern differ, which allows the rubber to adapt to a particular type of track.
The Shinko SR777 has been recognized by experts as a replacement for OEM tires. These tires are available in the traditional black color and with white sidewalls. The tread pattern for the rear and front wheels is identical.
The Shinko E705 Trail Master is recommended for touring enduro. It performs well on hard-surfaced tracks, has a high level of grip on wet and dry pavement, performs well on packed dirt roads, and is also suitable for traveling on gravel. Experts note a large resource, which, at a low retail price, makes Shinko tires a leader (costs per kilometer are taken into account).
Shinko 230 TOUR MASTER, Shinko 270 SUPER CLASSIC and Shinko SR733 are traditional choices for choppers. For Sport Touring - Shinko 009 RAVEN, SR740 and Shinko 011 VERGE. The Shinko SR741 has been developed specifically for the rear wheels of "sport-cruiser" motorcycles, providing a high level of comfort for the rider and passenger, and excellent vehicle handling. They can be distinguished by their symmetrical V-shaped tread pattern. In the Supersport category, Shinko 003 STEALTH and 006 PODIUM are popular.
9The 0004 Shinko 525 Soft-int is an excellent cross-country tire suitable for racing as it is suitable for riding on the ground. The tread is designed in such a way that it allows the tire to self-clean. It is worth noting the high degree of protection against mechanical damage. Buying motorcycle tires Shinko you guarantee your iron horse a good level of grip. The motorcycle is better controlled, the level of safety of the driver, passenger and other road users is increased. When choosing Shinko tires, pay attention to the size and tread features, because when developing each model, the specific conditions in which it will be used were taken into account.
The quality of Shinko products is explained by the fact that all the equipment on which they are produced, as well as the technologies used in production, were developed by Yokohama, a recognized leader in the production of rubber. Shinko's marketing policy is carried out so competently that it allows you to keep the cost of rubber for a bike at an affordable level. All this makes Shinko tires in demand among motorcycle enthusiasts.
Well, for starters, we ignore the advertising descriptions of a wonderful “hold” on any surface (“universality” of rubber is a myth, and a highway declared as such holds much worse than a special one in difficult conditions). The principle of “taking the most expensive and popular one” is also not suitable for choosing motorcycle tires: if you choose the wrong type or profile, the same advantages can turn into a serious problem, therefore, we carefully study the characteristics. And here it is important that you know about the types, tire design, features of the choice of operation (oddly enough) and the timing of changing tires. Let's fill in the thematic gaps together.
Each class of motorcycle has its own type of “shoe”, designed for efficient transmission of torque, better grip, stability when maneuvering in the conditions in which a particular bike is most of its life. Conventionally, motorcycle tires can be divided into road, off-road and racing. Within the class, tires are divided according to tasks: road, slick, rain, cross (endur), mud, studded, and dual-use. Diameter and width - depend on the class and dimensions of the equipment. By class, we will consider it.
In this category, most of the products are designed for limited use and have an extremely small resource - just one race or training session. Provides the best grip on asphalt. Their profile allows you to lay the bike almost parallel to the ground in the turn, however, only after warming up.
These motorcycles mostly "live" on the track, observing the primer only from a distance, from the height of the main road, so their "shoes" are designed for asphalt: the most durable, designed for the heavy weight of the motorcycle (passenger + luggage), and "all-weather".
The scatter of equipment in this category is very large - from "evil" tuned fifty dollars for mini-cross to light enduro for travel, so there are a lot of models here. You can combine them into classes according to their purpose: purely sports, amateur and rally:
For medium-sized classics, small-capacity, retro and custom motorcycles, various road tires are produced with a low semicircular profile, moderately developed tread, revealing working properties at temperatures below 80 about C. There are a lot of options, as well as specifics (all-season, rain, universal).
Motor tires are designed for high side loads. Its profile - even for the widest models - is more rounded than that of an automobile, consists of a working part responsible for traction, and a side part that “works” only when tilted in a turn. Parts not in contact with asphalt are also very important. It depends on them how much the tire will weigh, how much it will be washed under the weight of the bike, how long it will last.
Hidden part between the inner and outer layers of rubber, which gives rigidity and takes on the load. The structure of the cord is multi-layered. Steel wire, or threads made of polyamide, aramid fibers (Kevlar), or polyamide are arranged in dense rows either across the tire, or - intersect at an angle of 30–40 degrees in the direction of its rotation.
The edge of the tire, going inward, into the grooves of the edges of the rim, having an annular metal (internal) reinforcement. The reliability of its fixation in the rim determines the life of a motorcycle tire, and sometimes a motorcycle with a driver.
The working part, covered with an intricate pattern, the size, shape and depth of the grooves of which depend on the purpose of the product. A larger high tread is typical for off-road and cross-country motor tires, a lower, smooth one - for road and racing.
A zone connecting the tread and the bead that is not inferior to them in strength, but does not work with either the road surface or the rim. It is on it that “letters” are applied that reveal the properties and characteristics of the tire.
The three main indicators of motor rubber - width, profile (height), seat diameter (internal) - are measured in millimeters and inches. There are about a dozen markings adopted in different countries, but only four systems are widely used: Metric, Alpha, Standard (inch), Low profile (inch). For each of them, corresponding tables are available. For our market, more characteristically - Metric.
The name of the manufacturer (brand) and the name of the model are written in the largest letters on the product. The next in size is a "sausage" of numbers and Latin letters, indicating the width, height of the profile, the diameter of the rim for which the tire is intended, the weight limit per axle (rear / front), and the speed to which you can accelerate on this rubber. A little smaller - the country of origin, certificate, information about the material, design. Further, “small print” indicates no less important properties, which we will also consider separately.
I’ll immediately note the most common mistake in reading the rubber size index: the letter R is not a “radius”, as some motorcycle and car owners believe. This letter means "radial" model and indicates the radial direction of the inner carcass reinforcing layers of this tire. There are two main designs - radial - when the cord layers run across the tire, and diagonal - when they cross.
You don’t see the letter “R” in the index, but you see a gap, or “B” - it means the rubber is diagonal, and if “reinforced” or “reinf” is written nearby, it is also reinforced with an additional layer of cord.
"Sausage of letters and numbers", for example, 120/70 ZR17 (73W) TL, stands for:
The arrow with the words "wheel rotation" strictly regulates where the tire should rotate during operation. If there are letters ND (non directional) on board, it can be placed in any direction.
If the manufacturer clearly limits the installation location of the tire, he writes “Front” on it for the front or “Rear” for the rear. Without this marking, rubber can be placed on either side.
TL or tube less - as we have already deciphered earlier - tubeless. TT stands for tube type, or "suitable for camera use."
All manufacturers unanimously recommend “not wearing” rubber for more than five years, and if the equipment has been “shod” in it for ten years, even mothballed, urgently change the “bagels” without hesitation. A couple of decades ago, the resource of tires was regulated only by their external condition and the courage of the driver, but this was even before the mass “epidemic of planned obsolescence of goods”. Now, two years are taken into account in the calculation of the service life, and five years is the allowable storage period for rubber in a warehouse, as a result of which it should not be sold, but disposed of. The release date is marked with two two-digit numbers enclosed in a circle or oval. The first is the week number from the beginning of the year, the second is the year of production itself.
It is a common practice to buy lightly worn race slicks or cuts - only makes sense for training on the "ring" or karting track, but not on the DOP. In addition to poor handling, longer stopping distances on slippery surfaces, and increased risk of blown tires at high speeds, riding old tires carries legal risks. When passing a technical inspection, a cracked or worn protector (hypothetically) can cause a refusal to issue a diagnostic card. In fact, this is the same malfunction as badly worn brake pads. Also, in the event of an accident, due to the unsatisfactory condition of the rubber, the insurance company may refuse to pay you, referring to your favorite excuse - speeding (based on the increased stopping distance).
"From the factory" modern motorcycle tires are covered with a preservative silicone impregnation that prevents drying out during storage. It is slippery and penetrates deep into the pores of the rubber. Until you wipe it on the asphalt - do not count on a good "hold" and "sharp" brakes. It is not necessary to wash off the grease with gasoline or other solvent (it is useless), just ride measuredly for the first couple of hundred kilometers. By the way, after long-term storage of used road motor rubber, it is also recommended to “run in” it in order to remove a layer of coarsened material from the surface.
Even if you provide ideal storage conditions, motor rubber still ages over time, becoming covered with microcracks. If the "age" of tires has exceeded 10 years or more - do not buy them, despite their attractive appearance.
Signs of critical wear:
The principle of evaluating the residual depth of the tread grooves is now outdated - most manufacturers add an integrated tire wear indicator to the options, which is worth focusing on.
Let's start with what happens if you put a wider tire back without changing the "native" rim. This question worries many inexperienced motorcyclists who want to look more "sporty".
Firstly, you will not wait for the expected increase in traction due to the increased area of \u200b\u200b"support". Wider rubber, squeezed by the edges of the rim not in size, will tend to “up”, so the calculated wheel profile will be violated. It will be higher, respectively, the contact patch will not increase. Secondly, the controllability in corners will worsen, the speedometer will “lie”, the weight distribution will change due to the rear of the motorcycle raised.
This is highly discouraged for most modern sportbikes that hit the track, but many classic models, nakeds and cruisers are often fitted from the factory with a combination of radial front and diagonal rear tires. Unlike the radial, the diagonal one is a little “softer”, allows for moderate overload, is sold a little cheaper, so why not?
The choice of how much to inflate the wheels to is a constant compromise between the loads on the rubber and its capabilities. On most motorcycles, the recommended pressure for each axle is indicated on a sticker (on the fork and swingarm), but this value is only relevant for the rubber model that was supplied from the factory. On a new model, look for a designation on the tire (next to the max load load) indicating the maximum allowable cold pressure. Do not take a tire if this value is lower than recommended for your motorcycle.
Let's say your bike has a sticker with the recommended 2.25 bar for the front and 2.5 bar for the rear wheel. If you ride mainly with a passenger, with luggage, making long “flights” along the track, your motorcycle weighs 200 or more kilograms, and its volume is close to a liter, keep the pressure in the rear wheel at least 2. 8–3.0 bar, and in the front 2.5 bar. If you ride around the city, alone, with almost no luggage, and are not fond of “flights”, it would be optimal to set equal pressure in both wheels at 2.2 bar.
For lightly loaded medium-sized engines, the interval varies from 2.0 to 2.3 bar, and for slender "Chinese" 2.1 bar - in the front, 1.9 bar - in the rear cylinder (especially if the tires are also Chinese). The pressure in road tires must not be lowered below 1.9 so that the motorcycle does not start to “float” in corners or on bumps - this is dangerous.
The more we inflate the closed volume of the wheel, the more “round” it becomes and the smaller the area in contact with the asphalt. A larger contact patch means greater rolling resistance and accelerated tire wear, a smaller one means worse stability, lower braking and acceleration efficiency. Up to a certain point, these nuances are compensated by the tread, so on motocross and enduro bikes, the wheels can be lowered to 1. 2 bar - front and 0.8 bar - rear. However, air is an unreliable business, therefore, in hard enduro and trials, a gel filler is now more often used, which allows maintaining a pressure of 0.4 and 0.9bar. Such a set will not live long, but this is a sport in which, as we remember, rubber consumption is not considered.
Definitely yes. The older the cylinder, the harder its surface and the lower the residual tread height, the worse the bike “holds” the road. Bald or improperly matched tires increase the braking distance, and can cause an unexpected “leaving” the track into a ditch. On an over-inflated tire, the fork or pendulum will “beat” hard, and on a flat tire, the motorcycle will become less predictable in corners and “gobble up” more gasoline than in a normal ride.
No, because their rims are not sealed and you simply cannot inflate the tire. Not all alloy wheels are suitable for tubeless, so always check what type of rubber was on the bike before. In addition, the hole in the rim designed for the camera nipple may not match the size of the new nipple.
Only if the damage to the wheel does not allow you to inflate the tire, and you still need to get to the “repair”. In all other cases, the idea is controversial. The inner surface of a tubeless rim is not designed for other rubber to constantly rub against it, creating additional heating, and the inner part of a tubeless rim may have protrusions that injure the chamber. It is possible to get a “beautiful” wheel by putting a tubeless tube on a spoked rim, but objectively, this will increase its weight (remember the unsprung masses), and reduce the life of the camera. About when it frays to break - you will know already on a flat tire. You can repair a puncture of a tubeless tire without removing the wheel, but you will have to remove and patch the tube with its disassembly.
Undesirable. Even if it does not look worn yet, its resource is already less, from frequent “heating-cooling” cycles, it becomes rougher than new, frays or cracks faster. The old tube may not fully expand and fold if the new rubber has a lower profile (and internal volume) than the previous one.
If it belongs to the Racing Street or Street Legal class, this is a completely justified choice for the owner of a sport, street, naked or classic with claims to “aggressiveness”. In other cases, it is not recommended. Firstly, the use of racing slicks or cross-country tires is not allowed on the DOP. Secondly, sports tires are designed for intensive work with a certain warm-up. At competitions, before the race, they are warmed up in special covers, and then they are “given” one warm-up lap so that from the first seconds of the test race they can provide the bike with good contact with the asphalt (sticking).
In the city, even if you ride aggressively, the slick simply does not have time to warm up to operating temperature (more than 80 about C). Or even before it does not heat up for the whole trip, given the ragged rhythm of traffic lights and possible "toffees". Accordingly, it will not give adequate grip when trying to “give a corner”, the wheels will be demolished during braking, and instead of an energetic start, the bike will “grind” on the spot.
Ideally, pre-washed, treated with a silicone spray, complete with a disk and in special cases. Naturally - in a dry, dark place with a constant temperature, away from fire, children and animals.
Change your shoes for the winter, or find and set aside good rubber in reserve - make sure that during storage it:
