Written By: Riley (and 5 other contributors)
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The wheel is now off. Now you should take the valve core out of the tire with a valve core tool, and release all the air. Use a size 12mm wrench and take the nuts off the valve stem, and the bead lock. Which is the other thing in the rim with a nut on it besides the valve stem.
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Once the tire is back on the rim add more air this should push the bead lock out. Now you can put the nut back on the bead lock as well.(do not tighten yet.) make sure the tire is at the correct pressure and everything looks good, now you can tighten down the bead lock, and the valve stem. After the valve stem is tight put the second nut on.
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Remember when I told you to mark where your tightening blocks where? This is where that comes into play. Align the blocks to their original spot, then tighten the nut on the axle. Now you are done, and your bike is ready to ride.
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During my last tire change, I decided to make a guide on how to change a dirt bike tire at home.
Changing a dirt bike tire can be a pain and is avoided by most riders, but when using the right tools, it can be done with ease and will be no harder than an oil change. For as long as I’ve owned dirt bikes, I’ve always changed my tires. I was too stubborn to pay a shop and I always wanted to work on my bike myself. I remember buying my first set of tire irons and promptly destroying the inner tubes on the first few tire changes and cursing myself as it would have been cheaper if I did bring it to a shop.
Now to change a dirt bike tire takes about 20 minutes and don’t think twice about it. It’s kind of nice to be able to mount your tires as soon as they get to your door or to swap out used tires for different riding or to flip tires around to use the sharp edge on both sides of the knobs. The following is my step by step guide for changing a dirt bike tire, from unmounting to re-installing on my 2014 KTM 450 SXF swapping out a Dunlop Geomax MX32.
Over the years, I’ve accumulated all the tools I need to change a dirt bike tire.
I started off with the 2 curved tire irons and then onto the 3 spoon type after learning a couple of tricks to make changing easier. After struggling and thinking “There’s got to be an easier way to do this!,” I found out about using a Bead Buddy, tire stem puller, tire changing lube, and lastly, a dedicated tire stand. Here is a post where I talk about all the tools I use.
The tire I’m swapping out and putting on are both Dunlop Geomax MX32 front tires. I had and extra set laying around that only had a couple of races on them. I’m also reusing my Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty Motorcycle Tube.
Some other items are Rim Strip Tape, Baby powder, and tire mounting lube. I ended up using some tire black spray for mounting lube in a pinch, but you can get mounting lube specific for using on tires and also window cleaner can also be used, although it evaporates quick and can dry up on you sometimes.
Rim Tape
The first step to change a dirt bike tire is to unmount it.
To unmount the front wheel, put your bike on a stand or a motorcycle lift to lift the front wheel off the ground. Remove the axle nut, and then loosen the 4 axle pinch bolts. To remove the axle, you can use a T-wrench or a ratchet extension to push the axle through the fork lugs.
After setting up the wheel on a tire stand, you will need to deflate the tire and disconnect the inner tube and rim lock. Use the valve core tool to pull out the valve core and keep it out for the rest of the unmounting. Taking out the core lets the inner tube compress completely.
If you just deflate the tire by pressing on the valve, the inner tube will still contain some air and will make unmounting the tire harder. After taking out the core, remove the valve stem nut. For the rim lock, you just need to back the nut off but you don’t need to remove it. After loosening it, press down on the rim lock to make sure it moves freely.
Now you are prepared to unmount the tire. The first step is to pop the tire off its bead. What you are trying to do is to drop the bead of the tire into the center of the rim.
The rim is U shaped and by dropping the bead into the center, it lets the tire move so you will have a little more room to pull the bead over to the outside of the wheel. Start by loosening the tire near the rim lock. Hold down the rim lock so the tire can drop behind it. You can spray the tire with some tire lube if it’s sticking.
This is the toughest part to change a dirt bike tire. Use plenty of tire lube and take your time and work on small sections at a time. Spray the tire and rim with plenty of tire lube and start at the section of the tire at the rim lock. Insert the tire irons about 4 inches apart from each other and work a small section at a time. Getting the first section of the tire over is the hardest part, but once you get it going, the rest of the tire will slide right over.
With one side off, flip the tire over and repeat. You want to pull both sides of the tire to the outside of the wheel. When both sides of the tire on the outside of the wheel, push the wheel down into the tire and pull the wheel through the middle of the tire.
Check to make sure the rim tape is in good shape and hasn’t broken in any spots, dirt, and dust can get in the tire and acts like sandpaper on the inner tube when riding. With standard tubes, it’s a good idea to replace the inner tube at each tire change. With extra heavy duty inner tubes, you can get a couple of tire changes out of them before they wear thin. I run Bridgestone heavy duty inner tubes and will usually go 3-4 tire changes before replacing them. Inner tubes wear just like tires and start to ball up and thin out after so many hours.
Clean off the inner tube and make sure the tire is free from sand or other debris.
If you are mounting a new tire or re-using an old one, one tip is put a little bit of baby powder into the tire before adding the inner tube. The baby powder will act as a dry lubricant between the tire and inner tube and will help with rubbing and friction wearing the inner tube thin. Add a small amount the tire and rotate the tire around to spread it out. Also, you will notice on tires there will be a mark, a yellow circle in this case. This marks the light side of the tire. You should put this marker near the valve stem and rim lock.
Depending on the size of your wheel, you might need to use a valve stem puller to get the valve stem through the hole in the rim. The tool is fairly cheap and will save you some scraped up hands.
Once the valve stem is pulled through, tighten the valve stem nut to hold the tube in place. After that, re-insert the valve stem core.
Mounting the tire is a little different then unmounting when you change a dirt bike tire. You can get half the tire on using the 2 long curved tire irons. You’re going to want to set the tire bead between the rim lock and the rim. This allows the tire bead to sit in the lower drop center which helps the tire to be pulled over. You can work most of the tire onto the wheel using a tire stand, but the last section I find easier with the tire on the ground and using your knee to hold the tire in place.
Reach through with the curved end of the tire iron and lift the last section over the rim.
This is where having a bead buddy and a good set of tire irons comes in handy. Starting at the rim lock, push the tire down into the drop center of the wheel. Make sure the rim lock is out of the way and hold the tire down with the bead buddy. Work the tire around with the tire irons taking small sections at a time near the end. The last section is always the toughest so use plenty of lube and work it in small sections.
Final steps are to tighten down the valve stem inflate the inner tube to set the bead.
You will have to over-inflate the tire to get the bead to “pop” on. You can run a finger around the rim edge to feel that the tire is fully seated. After the bead sets, deflate the tire to 12-15 psi and tighten the rim lock.
The last step to change a dirt bike tire is mounting the wheel. Pretty straight forward but with one tip. Use a flat blade screwdriver to spread the brake pads. This will help to keep the fork from spinning while you try to get the brake disk lined up.
Choosing tires for a motorcycle is not an easy task.
Like the selection of equipment, tires should be selected based on the type of motorcycle, the nature of the ride. After determining the initial criteria, choose a rubber to find the best option available.
If you put sport tires on a sport bike, they will grip well in corners but wear out quickly.
If you put ordinary touring tires in a sportbike, you can be very surprised by the handling of your motorcycle on the track. It's a good idea to use a tire with multiple compounds - then the hard center wears less on the track and the soft sides hold up better in the corners.
Tire type selection? There are no universal answers here, but there are useful tips that can help a lot.
Tires differ in structure, rubber compound, profile or tread pattern. Others differ in appearance - for example, a white rim. All these elements determine the purpose of the tires. That's where different types of motorcycle tires come from.
Whether sporty, racing, dynamic or classic, motorcyclists enjoy driving. However, each of these categories has different characteristics, which affects the driving style and the final choice.
Each tire has a number and letter marking with information about its size and permissible speed.
An approximate marking on a motorcycle tire may contain: 150 / 70-16 68 H.
Example designation 150 / 70-16 68 H defines:
Race bikes are used on the track where the best performance and therefore the result is important. This applies to grip, stability and properties that determine the speed of acceleration.
The most common racing tires are slick (bald) or racing cut. The first are completely smooth, that is, without grooves and incisions. This solution is suitable for racing on dry pavement - due to maximum surface-to-surface contact.
However, this does not apply to ordinary streets. Likewise, riding in rainy weather with these tires would definitely be a bad idea.
Many models of racing tires can only be used on the track. They are marked with the NHS (Not For Highway Service) abbreviation, which means that they are not approved for driving on public roads.
Sports tires are suitable for racing and competition. The chemical composition is optimized in terms of acceleration, top speed, grip, effective and safe braking even in emergency situations. This type of motorcycle tire is not used for daily driving and on public roads.
Examples: Dunlop Sportmax GP Racer, Metzeler Racetec INT, Metzeler Racetec RR, Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa.
A separate class of racing tires are rain racing tires. Their task is to remove water from the contact patch, including when the motorcycle is tilted, and the maximum level of grip on wet asphalt. When driving on dry roads, such tires are subject to rapid wear, as they have a very soft composition.
Examples: Pirelli Diablo Rain, Metzeler Racetec Rain.
Touring motorcycles are large motorcycles designed for long journeys. They use special rubber compounds that affect grip and steering precision. Also available are treads that keep the tires reliable even in deteriorating conditions.
For this type of rubber, its resource is of particular importance, since it is precisely such rubber that is most often used by motorcycle travelers in their many thousands of runs around cities and countries. In addition to long routes with different quality of coverage, on which the tourist tire must be equally predictable and safe, long trips are usually associated with a large mass of transported belongings, without which the life of a motorcycle tourist becomes dull and bleak. And the tourist motorcycles themselves, in terms of their curb weight, are increasingly approaching diesel locomotives.
Road-tourist tires must withstand long runs, withstand high loads well.
At the same time, the requirements for the quality of adhesion give way to high predictability and a "motorcycle feel" that allows even an inexperienced motorcyclist to feel and stop the development of slips and drifts at an early stage. The main task is not to pass the route at the highest speed, but to reach the final destination in the safest possible mode, while maintaining control over the motorcycle in any weather.
Accordingly, the grooves for water drainage in such tires are more developed. And some models are specially optimized to maintain performance on wet roads. The resource of such tires ranges up to 20,000 km. Road touring tires are suitable for the city and travel on road and touring motorcycles. Moreover, for the latter, given their large mass, special “reinforced” versions of tires are sometimes produced.
Examples: Dunlop TT900 GT, Mitas MC50 , Metzeler Tourance Next, Metzeler Lasertec, Michelin Pilot Activ
This includes everything that has already exceeded the simple city treads, but has not grown out of the malice of the pattern to an off-road character.
Dual purpose tires designed specifically for those who love hybrid driving style. They let you ride your motorcycle to work on the weekdays and hit the trails on the weekends.
For motorcyclists who prefer different riding styles, there is nothing better than the ability to conquer roads and off-road. Whether your motorcycle is a city bike or a touring bike, with dual-purpose tires, you no longer have to choose one style of riding.
Tourist and all-terrain options are distinguished by increased endurance, as they withstand the load of not only a motorcycle with a pilot, but also a bunch of accessories and things necessary for the journey. The tread changes to a clear pattern that can equally successfully help the motorcycle on simple roads and beyond.
Such rubber is most often put on enduro-touring motorcycles, scramblers and not small-capacity dual-purpose motorcycles (soft enduro for every day).
Such a tire provides a sufficient grip patch with an asphalt surface, the grooves effectively drain water, and the checker tread provides good traction outside the asphalt (on the ground, in sand, mud, gravel).-Step-2.jpg/aid1501689-v4-728px-Ride-a-Dirt-Bike-(the-Basics)-Step-2.jpg)
Examples: Metzeler Tourance, Mitas E-08, Mitas E-07, Metzeler Tourance.
Rubber for off-road motorsport is divided into two main types - for motocross, enduro. For each discipline, tires are produced for both professional sports and amateur use. The latter are more versatile, and very often manufacturers position outdated rubber models for “big” sports as tires for amateur driving, which remain popular among amateurs. Cross-country tires also require a tire tow bar so that during hard acceleration or braking, the tire does not rotate on the rim and the nipple (nipple) comes off. Used mainly on front and rear wheels, but more often required on the rear wheel due to the high load on the rubber.
Rubber is made not only for a specific discipline, but also for operating conditions. Many factors are taken into account - the type of soil on the track, the characteristics of weather conditions, certain goals, for example, speed and roll, or vice versa, the maximum hook.
An important difference between off-road tires and tires for other motorcycle disciplines is that such rubber falls into the category of consumables, manufacturers recommend regularly updating a set of tires. Often at the beginning of each season, athletes are forced to change tires due to rapid wear. This is due to the fact that off-road rubber has a direct sports purpose - its task is to provide reliable grip at maximum speed while passing the track, so manufacturers think about durability and long service life last.
What is a compound?
It will not be a secret for anyone that the times of synthetic, and even more so natural rubber, are long gone.
Conventional rubber has been replaced by a compound - a synthetic alloy of various monomers and polymers, which has a much higher wear resistance and, most importantly, certain properties.
Thanks to the unique properties, manufacturers have been able to produce specialized off-road tires that correspond to a certain type of soil on the track.
Cross, Motocross tires
Motocross is the most dynamic discipline of extreme motorsport. Athlete, equipment and, in particular, tires of a motorcycle are subjected to severe loads during the entire race. That is why cross-country tires must be hardy, reliable and aggressive.
These characteristics are reflected in the use of a hard cord (steel base) for maximum durability, an aggressive tread pattern with pronounced elements for better traction, and a special compound that is selected depending on the type of surface of a particular track.
For hard, dry ground, use tires with wide lugs (to increase bike control) and a flexible compound that enhances grip on the track. For soft, loose ground, tires with a harder compound are used. A similar type of rubber is used in freestyle motocross in order to extend the life of tires, because. rubber is strongly erased on the hard canvas of iron eps and is selected depending on the type of soil on a particular track.
The rule generally applies: the softer the jumps.
The pressure ranges from 1.5 to 3 atmospheres covering the track - the higher the pressure. But it also happens the other way around - for example, in motofreestyle, riders prefer to inflate tires to a “stone” state for maximum roll and reduce the risk of chamber breakdown in the event of a hard landing.
Examples: Mitas C-19, Mitas C-21, Mitas C-10 Country Cross, Dunlop Geomax MX12 Sand, Metzeler MC360, Pirelli Scorpion MX Extra X -enduro
Unlike motocross, enduro and hard enduro courses are littered with various obstacles such as logs, roots, loose pebbles, truck tires, river fords, and even whole rocks. To overcome such a “tin”, special tires are used that combine the advantages of cross-country rubber and trial tires.
Enduro tires use a softer, extra wide cord and a sticky, highly elastic compound that provides maximum grip on any surface.
According to the regulations of international competitions FIM, the tread pattern of enduro tires has a height limit, so enduro rubber has a less aggressive tread than cross-country tires.
In the enduro discipline, tubeless tires are more often used, filled with a special mousse or tubes system instead of air in the chambers, as is the case with motocross rubber. This solution allows you to use the minimum pressure in the tires without the risk of getting a breakdown or slipping of the tire on the rims during the race.
Examples: Mitas E-09, Mitas EF-07, Mitas XT-754
In classic motorcycles, the main goal is to get quality grip. Classic motorcycles have weaker engines and slower speeds and do not require special radial designs for high performance. These are safe tires with a simple design.
Diagonal tires are suitable for cruiser class motorcycles. Their sidewalls resist loads and impacts better, a heavily loaded motorcycle with a passenger on board is not a problem for such tires.
For powerful and fast power cruisers such as the Yamaha V-MAX II and Harley Davidson V-Rod, radial tires are more suitable. Their sidewalls are not as strong, so the height of such tires, as a rule, is much less. They are less subject to internal heating and wear during movement, especially at high speeds.
Examples: Metzeler ME888 Marathon, Michelin Commander III Cruiser.
Tires are made from synthetic rubber (a mixture of petroleum as well as chemicals such as sulfur, carbon black and silicone). They are assembled in stages, starting with the assembly of the cord and belt construction, after which the rubber is applied and molded.
In order for the trip to be as safe as possible, and the choice of tires for a motorcycle to be accurate, it is worth knowing what is hidden inside motorcycle tires.
The most important in motorcycle tire design are:
1.
Cord.
2. Board.
3. Protector.
4. Side walls.
The cord, called the carcass, is made of a very strong material whose task is to give the tire the correct shape and remove bumps or stress. The carcass of the tire consists of two or more layers of textile cord (viscose, nylon, polyester) that intersect at certain angles.
The side walls, being the thinnest element, are very resistant to deformation.
The bead is the part of the tire that connects to the wheel. It is usually steel wire heavily coated with rubber. The bead fits snugly against the wheel to prevent rotational slip of the wheel in the tire.
The tread is the part you see when you choose your tire. For the most part, slicker tires perform better on smooth, dry surfaces, while fatter tires perform better off-road.
The protector is responsible for the traction properties of the motorcycle and the removal of water, sand and other contaminants.
Sidewall - The area of a tire that connects the tread and bead. This is the part of the tire we talk about when we talk about height, profile or aspect ratio. Generally, a shorter sidewall has stiffer sidewalls that tend to flex less. For the rider, this means better handling and cornering, worse shock absorption, and a more difficult setup.
The markings can tell a lot of information, such as what maximum speed the tire should run, how much weight it can carry, direction of rotation (which is indicated by most tires), when the tire was made, tire size.
Metric tire size example: 180/70R-16.
In this case, the rim size is 16 inches in diameter.
This is the alphanumeric sequence you see. Example: MU85B16.
Tires tend to wear unevenly over the entire area most of the time. This is due to insufficient air pressure, suspension settings and tire stress. There are many things you can do to take care of your tires, but the most important thing is spinning them.
Some tires have a specific direction of rotation to improve wet grip and optimize noise emissions.
For tires with a directional tread pattern, the direction of rotation is indicated by an arrow on the side of the tire.
To optimize tire performance, follow manufacturer's recommendations for changing front and rear tires, always turning tires in the direction indicated on the tire surface. Do not interchange front and rear tires without observing the markings as this may result in poor tire performance and loss of traction.
The front wheel on a motorcycle is usually narrower and has a less aggressive tread pattern. The front rim handles most of the bike's braking and is designed to optimize steering.
The rear tire carries most of the motorcycle's weight, as well as rider and passenger weight. The rear tire is designed to carry heavy loads and also withstand the force exerted during acceleration. They have a stronger construction than the front tires and have more aggressive tread to optimize traction.
These tires have a special marking that indicates the ideal direction of rotation.
If the motorcycle tire is mounted against the direction of rotation, it can seriously affect the handling characteristics as well as the ability to grip the road surface. Moreover, improper installation may cause an accident.
TL is a tubeless tyre. TT stands for tube type, intended for camera use.
Most motorcycles are now equipped with tubeless tires. Tube tires are used in the simplest and cheapest motorcycles, and those designed for long trips. The advantage of tube tires is the ability to continue driving even with a small breakdown and, possibly, replace a damaged tube yourself.
However, as a rule, tubular wheels are more problematic and less safe to use, because even the smallest puncture of the inner tube results in an almost instantaneous loss of pressure in the wheel. Tubeless tyres, more expensive to manufacture and require more precision in assembly, but safer - whatever gets hit usually stays in them and pressure loss is much slower.
Buying new motorcycle tires is a real challenge, especially when it comes to choosing the best option. Rubber should be chosen as scrupulously as spare parts for your steel horse. Like many other motorcycle components, tires have their own markings and codes, and so do tires. It is worth knowing the symbols that are on motorcycle tires.
An important symbol by which you can read important information for the user is a dash. A dash ("-") in the index of a motorcycle tire indicates that it is a diagonal tire. If there was a "B" in its place, then it would be a diagonal tire with a belt, and when the "R" is a radial tire. Additional markings that can be found on motorcycle tires are the letters "TT", which says that we are dealing with tires that require a tube, while "TL" (TubeLess) is a tubeless tire.
You can often find additional markings:
Rigidity designation on motorcycle tires:
Green is soft. Tires for driving on soft ground.
Yellow is medium.
Red is tough. For hard ground.
Thanks to the “DOT” marking, we can see the date of manufacture of the tires, the manufacturer and the plant in which they were made. At the end of each such description there are four numbers, for example 1819. This means that the tires were produced in the 18th week of 2019of the year. Three digits means that the tire was produced before 2000. In this case, the first two digits indicate the week, and the last digit indicates the year. The presence of the DOT marking on tires informs that this set of tires meets the standards.
Depending on the intensity of motorcycle riding, tires should be changed every two to three seasons. Want to save money on tires? There is an option to buy used tires. But how good is this, a safe idea?
Don't invest in motorcycle tires. Each driver has a different driving style and different dynamics, which means that the tires are subjected to different stresses. This affects not only the condition of the tread, but also the general condition of the rubber, which is not visible at first glance. In addition, such a kit will have to be changed faster, and instead of investments, we have a new expense.
Worn motorcycle tires often go through most of their life cycle. If a set of new tires is enough for two, three or even four seasons, then in the case of old tires, further operation due to aging processes often becomes impossible after a year.
Used motorcycle tires are dangerous! The motorcyclist risks driving safety.
After all, he does not know the technical condition of the tire and cannot accurately determine whether it was seriously damaged. Every owner of two-wheeled transport should keep this in mind every time he buys tires for a motorcycle.
It is recommended that you regularly check your motorcycle tire pressure with a pressure gauge before you ride. If the motorcycle is running, wait about 3 hours after turning off the engine. This is important because as the temperature rises, the pressure in the motorcycle tires increases, and the factory values are indicated for cold tires.
The optimal level of fuel combustion is achieved at the values recommended by the manufacturer. Low pressure in motorcycle tires leads to intensive wear of the tread. It is difficult to say unequivocally how many atmospheres should be in motorcycle tires. This information is in the vehicle owner's manual. This figure is different for each motorcycle.
By the way, it is very convenient to use a compressor instead of a pump.
Consequences of too high pressure
Excessive tire pressure on a motorcycle reduces the contact area of the tire with the road and thus the grip on the ground. This has a significant impact on security. When there is too much air in the tires, driving comfort is reduced.
Consequences of too low pressure
Too low air level causes excessive heating of the rubber. Then it becomes less resistant to damage, its structure may be deformed due to the direct impact of a large weight. This also affects the stability of the motorcycle, driving accuracy.
Low pressure tires are used on sports tracks. Warming up the tire is recommended here, as this provides better grip on the ground.
Recommended pressure:
Motorcyclists should pay special attention to new tires for their cars.
They usually have much higher requirements for traction than car drivers. The most experienced pilots know that running in new tires is necessary and affects traction during the first few hundred kilometers.
Tire manufacturers advise motorcyclists to ride carefully for at least the first 150-200 km on new tires. Motorcyclists should not brake hard, accelerate hard, or turn sharply.
A smooth ride for the first 200km allows the rider to get used to the tires and their feel, as well as getting rid of the chemicals on the rubber surface. After running in, check the tires for uneven wear.
Tires wear out over time and need to be replaced. Based on their personal riding style preferences, motorcycle tire wear will vary from rider to rider. Typically rear tires begin to flex, losing their rounded profile as the center of the tread wears faster than the sidewall. Front tires usually wear more evenly across the tread, but jagged wear, known as bowl wear, may begin to show.
Check your tires for adequate tread depth. When a tire is worn on the built-in indicators with a tread groove depth of 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) or less, or the tire cord or carcass is exposed.
Also inspect the tires for uneven wear. Wear on one side of the tread or flat spots on the tread may indicate a problem with the machine or motorcycle.
Each tire manufacturer recommends different mileage for tire replacement. On a motorcycle that mostly rides on pavement and good quality roads, you can change tires every 10,000 kilometers. A motorcycle that constantly rides off-road and is constantly exposed to severe damage, tires are changed every 4000 kilometers.
It is recommended to rotate the tires as soon as you notice a difference in wear between the front and rear wheels. But before rotating, make sure that this wear is not caused by negligence or mechanical part.
Tires in poor condition can ruin the performance of your motorcycle and even endanger your or your passenger's safety.
It is recommended to check weekly:
When your tires are worn out and become dangerous, you will feel the warning signs while riding a motorcycle. If your motorcycle starts to wobble. If your motorcycle starts to vibrate, makes a strange sound or becomes unstable, this is an indication that the sidewall of your tires is too worn or delaminate.
It is possible, but there is no guarantee that the rubber will work properly. Such activities require skilled workers to produce a tubeless rim from a spoked wheel. It's better to switch to tubeless alloys, depending on your requirements and the bike.
Tubes are not installed in tubeless tires. The disc of a tubeless wheel is not designed for the installation of cameras.
The so-called "nipple" of the camera will dangle in the place where the tubeless disc is attached, and in the end it will simply come off. A tubeless tire has less space and the installed tube will not be able to straighten out, air bubbles will appear, which will affect the balance and handling.
You can fit an old inner tube into a new tire and save money. However, for safety reasons, it is extremely important to have a suitable tube under the tire. Tubes and tires are clearly labeled for size, and the tube must be the same size as the tire, such as a 14" tube on a 14" tire.
Racing tires have a smooth tread pattern that is very efficient in motorsports. The smooth tread provides the maximum contact area with the asphalt, resulting in better traction, better braking and acceleration.
Rubber for the city must have a tread of at least 16 mm. Racing is not allowed for city driving.
Motorcycle tire manufacturers say you can't mix tires from different brands. This is not a sales tactic, tires are developed in pairs, traction and handling are determined by testing both at the same time.
Modern motorcycle tires are durable and efficient to work in all conditions. However, like any mechanical part of a motorcycle, tire life depends on external factors.
To ensure that the tire does not lose its qualities ahead of time, some steps must be taken:
Optimum air pressure maintenance:
Tire pressure control is essential to maintain tire performance and to maintain motorcycle fuel economy.
For optimum pressure follow these steps:
1. Maintain air pressure at the level recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer.
2. Check your motorcycle tire pressure at least once a week.
3. Inflate your tires in the morning as the air is cold and will expand even better.
Check tire tread regularly
Checking the tread is a common way to determine what condition a motorcycle tire is in. If the wear is above the recommended level, they must be replaced.
Avoid sudden driving maneuvers
While driving, avoid sudden braking and rapid acceleration. It damages the engine, clutch, brakes, and tires. When braking hard, the tires slide, which burns the rubber and damages the tread. This places additional and excessive stress on motorcycle tires.
Park the motorcycle in the shade
It is not recommended to park the motorcycle in direct sunlight as hot and harmful sunlight can damage the tires. The consequence of this is the formation of cracks on the sidewalls of the tires.
Clean tires with mild soap and water
When washing your motorcycle, clean motorcycle tires with mild soap and water.
Chemicals and greasy solutions can remove the natural oils from the rubber, which is necessary to maintain traction on both wet and dry surfaces.
These tips will help extend the life of your tires. Tire repair is carried out with the help of special paddles, and emergency repairs - with a tire repair kit.
Text: Andrey Rodionov, Dmitry Kolchugin
Photo: Nikita Kolobanov, Andrey Rodionov, rubber manufacturers
The challenges facing motorcycle tire developers are extremely complex and contradictory. On the one hand, tires must effectively transmit engine power, prevent stalls and slips, provide feedback and allow the rider to “feel the road”.
On the other hand, to ensure a minimum tire wear rate, and make it uniform across the entire width of the working surface. Therefore, when choosing a tire for certain operating conditions, we will inevitably have to sacrifice something.
Our task is greatly facilitated by the experience of global motor rubber manufacturers. Based on the collected data, they have already calculated the optimal ratio of tire characteristics for different conditions, and are ready to offer us ready-made solutions.
There is a great variety of motor rubber models designed for a variety of operating conditions. In this article we will consider its main types. Naturally, the focus will be on road models. We will touch on tires for motocross and enduro only in passing, since in order to fully cover this topic, we will need to write a separate voluminous material.
So, let's get started...
Motor rubber classification.
First, some boring theory.
Any reference book will tell you that motorcycle tires are Diagonal and Radial.
The carcass of the diagonal motor rubber is made of cross layers of cord, which are directed diagonally from one side of the tire to the other. Each subsequent layer of cord is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the previous one. In some tire models, another layer is applied over the cross plies of the cord, directed in the direction of rotation of the tire. Such a layer is called a Belt, and the design of such a tire is Diagonally Belted. In a radial tire, the plies of the cord are located “radially”, at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of tire rotation.
Cruiser and custom tires.
Bias tires are well suited for cruiser motorcycles. Their sidewalls resist loads and impacts much better, so a heavily loaded motorcycle with a passenger on board is not a problem for such tires. But for powerful and fast power cruisers such as the Yamaha V-MAX II and Harley Davidson V-Rod, radial tires are more suitable. Their sidewalls are not as strong, so the height of such tires, as a rule, is much less.
But they are less subject to internal heating and wear during movement, especially at high speeds.
Tires for vintage motorcycles.
There are many different types. Starting from vintage tires with a classic look for some Royal Enfield and old school custom, and ending with the high-tech Pirelli Phantom Sportscomp, which differs from most modern tires only in an elaborate tread pattern.
Small displacement tires.
Another class of tires that includes both radial and bias-ply tires is the small-capacity motorcycle tire. The popularity of checks and three hundred among young people forced the designers to produce tires for the most varied use of these motorcycles. Starting from "diagonals" for lovers of leisurely travel around Moscow (sometimes together), and ending with sports radial tires for those who do not get out of the karting track. After all, radial tires are much better suited for fast and accurate aerobatics.
Their advantages are especially relevant in motorsport.
Racing slicks
Highly specialized product designed for competition and training of professional and amateur athletes, exclusively on sports tracks. Not approved for use on public roads. Most often they have a smooth surface without grooves and patterns, in order to achieve the maximum area of the wheel contact patch. The type of tire without grooves is commonly called - Slick. The sidewall shape of the racing tires is also optimized to maintain traction in extreme lean angles of the motorcycle when cornering not only with the knees, but also with the elbows. They have an extremely limited resource. As a rule, they are subject to replacement after a race run or practice session. Provides unparalleled traction.
In addition to their appearance, these tires are characterized by a special temperature regime. Operating temperature: 80-100°C An unheated tire of this type differs significantly in its properties from the same wheel brought to operating temperature.
Accordingly, all its high characteristics appear only after warming up to the specified parameters. That is why in sports competitions so much attention is paid to warming up the rubber with the help of special “warmers”, and during the so-called warm-up lap preceding the combat race.
Racing slicing
In some racing series, the use of slick tires - slicks - is prohibited for marketing reasons, etc. Therefore, most manufacturers produce racing tires with the minimum number of grooves necessary to comply with the regulations of these competitions. Otherwise, these are, as a rule, the same uncompromising racing tires that are not intended for public roads. The formal exception is the Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SC. The Pirelli website states that this model is suitable for driving on public roads.
But those who have experience with this rubber know that this is an exclusively racing product, not much different from classmates.
Caution for newbies. If you decide to use such tires in the city, counting on an unprecedented grip, you will be bitterly disappointed. It is almost impossible to warm them up to operating temperature on public roads. Even after a series of accelerations and decelerations, the sidewalls will remain cold, and you will be indescribably surprised to go into slippery with a completely childish tilt of the motorcycle. For this reason, you should not buy Dunlop D212 and Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SC for next to nothing with a still “live” middle from riders after the track. Especially if you have never encountered this rubber model before, even on a karting track.
Street legal racing cut
The main difference from the previous class is in the temperature regime. These tires hold up much better when cold and don't run as hot. As a rule, it is: 60-80°C. Accordingly, their maximum grip properties are slightly lower. But the best grip in a cold state allows them to be allowed on public roads.
And if you get to the training track on your own, then these tires are the best choice. These are the fastest tires allowed on city streets.
The presence of this class of tires is primarily due to the specific requirements of amateur competitions. In such races, for reasons of economy, the use of heating pads is often prohibited. And so that novice racers do not get killed in the very first turn due to cold tires, the regulations require the use of road tires approved for operation at the DOP.
Racing rain tires
A separate class of racing tires is rain racing tires. Their task is to completely remove water from the contact patch, including when the motorcycle is tilted, as well as the maximum level of grip on wet asphalt. When driving on dry roads, such tires are subject to rapid wear, as they have a very soft composition.
Supersport tires
Designed for more aggressive driving than conventional road racing tires.
But in terms of grip, they still fall short of street legal racing “cutting”.
Road sports tires
Designed primarily for powerful sports and urban motorcycles. Fully suitable for operation on public roads. The available grooves, most often, are enough to drain water from the contact patch in case of light rain. At the same time, such tires retain most of the positive qualities of their brutal racing relatives on the sports track. What's more, the amateur rider who trains once a week doesn't have to worry about reaching the optimum operating temperature and pressure.
Sports tires reach operating conditions much faster than racing tires, and their parameters in a warm and “cold” state do not differ so significantly. But you should not be under any illusions about the ultimate capabilities of such tires in a race, even an amateur one. The fantastic traction properties of racing tires brought to operating temperature are unattainable for sports tires.
Therefore, in extreme conditions, be careful and keep your sobriety of mind.
But the resource of such tires is not limited to a couple of races on the highway, and ranges from 4000 km. up to 7000 km., depending on the engine power, the owner's piloting style, and his love to burn rubber, performing rolling burnout. So, sports tires are a reasonable choice for the owner of a sports or fast road bike, looking at the track or karting track 1-2 times a month to brush up on the relevant skills.
Road touring tires
For this type of rubber, its resource is of particular importance, since it is such rubber that is most often used by motorcycle travelers in their many thousands of runs around cities and countries. In addition to long routes with different quality of coverage, on which the tourist tire must be equally predictable and safe, long trips are usually associated with a large mass of transported belongings, without which the life of a motorcycle tourist becomes dull and bleak.
And the tourist motorcycles themselves, in terms of their curb weight, are increasingly approaching diesel locomotives.
Therefore, a road touring tire must not only withstand long runs, but also withstand high loads well. At the same time, the requirements for the quality of adhesion give way to high predictability and "motorcycle feel" that allows even an inexperienced motorcyclist to feel and stop the development of slips and drifts at an early stage. The main task is not to pass the route at the highest speed, but to reach the final destination in the safest possible mode, while maintaining control over the motorcycle in any weather.
Accordingly, the water drainage grooves in such tires are more developed. And some models are specially optimized to maintain performance on wet roads. The resource of such tires, as a rule, ranges from 10,000 to 20,000 km. Best of all road-touring tires are suitable for city and travel on road and tourist motorcycles. Moreover, for the latter, given their large mass, special “reinforced” versions of tires are sometimes produced.
Dual purpose tires
The high popularity of enduro motorcycles in Europe is beyond the comprehension of domestic brains. Especially if you take into account the average European quality of the road surface. But the fruits of this popularity can be enjoyed by our compatriots who operate all-terrain vehicles.
Tires for “parquet” crossovers
The real heyday of this class of tires happened immediately after the appearance in 2010 of the Ducati Multistrada motorcycle, as well as many of its followers. Just like the Porsche Cayenne and BMW X5 crossovers, these bikes are only nightmares for serious off-road use. But nothing prevents them from amusing the pride of the owners on a trampled primer.
But back to tires. In terms of its composition and parameters, this is, as a rule, a specialized tourist rubber capable of withstanding long distances, having a tread that provides the minimum necessary “hook” on unpaved areas.
It is designed for large and powerful motorcycles, has a high load capacity and speed index, is comfortable, provides good handling at high speeds and wet roads.
The resource of such tires, as a rule, reaches 20,000 km. And also, due to the obligatory presence of exclusively road dimensions in such models, every city madman can put them on his blue Drozd and rush off towards Magadan.
All-terrain tires
But, unlike in the automotive industry, the rise of the parquet crossover motorcycle class hasn't dampened the popularity of true touring enduros like the Bavarian Great Goose. Such motorcycles can travel on roads with any surface, as well as without it.
Therefore, tires designed for driving on asphalt and dirt in a ratio of 50/50 (as an option: 60/40) are produced by every world-class motor rubber manufacturer. Their task is to provide an acceptable grip on both dirt and asphalt roads.
The resource of such tires, as a rule, ranges from 13,000 to 15,000 km.
It should be noted that the higher the rubber resource, the larger the contact patch of the tread with the coating. Therefore, with the growth of off-road characteristics of tires, the resource decreases. Also, the harder the composition of the rubber, the higher its survivability. But grip on wet roads with hard rubber will be noticeably worse.
Off-road tires
The most off-road, among the “civilian” tires, designed for the most desperate travelers and rally marathon participants. They allow you not to think about the presence of any road under the wheels.
These tires have a very strong carcass that provides the necessary margin of safety, which allows you to move on some models even on a punctured wheel. Often, a slight reduction in pressure will achieve more even wear and improve traction on wet pavement.
The resource of such tires is approximately 6000 - 12000 km.
Off-Road Sport Tires
Not for highway use only are not certified, and do not have a DOP approval.
These are special tires for motocross and enduro, not designed for high speeds. True, there are separate models from this category that are approved for use on the roads, but this is more of a nod to consumers. The resource on the roads of these tires is small, road characteristics, such as handling and braking, also leave much to be desired.
Therefore, we can rather talk only about the possibility of driving on these tires to real off-road without changing shoes. They have a diagonal design and are designed for use with chambers or mousses. They are mainly produced in dimensions R21, R19 and R18 and very rarely - R17. These tires can be divided into motocross tires and enduro tires.
In each of these segments there are sports-oriented models, and amateur formats are more versatile (usually these are old models that no longer satisfy athletes, but are in demand). Unlike many other types of motor tires, motocross and enduro tires are consumables. They must work out their task with maximum effect and, by and large, the residual resource is not of interest to manufacturers.
Motocross tires
Motocross is a very intense, short ride with high shock and alternating loads from acceleration to braking on a pre-prepared track with relatively uniform soil. To do this, the cross tire has a hard cord, high and aggressive lugs and a relatively hard rubber compound.
Motocross tires are available in different types for different types of terrain. They differ in the tread pattern and the composition of the rubber used. The main pattern: on hard ground, tires with wide lugs and more elastic rubber are used, on soft ground - with rare tread blocks and harder rubber. The tire pressure used is 1.2-0.8 kPa: the softer the ground, the higher the pressure.
Enduro competition tires
Enduro competitions include other additional types of obstacles: logs, fords, stones, rocks. To effectively overcome them, tires are used that combine the properties of tires for motocross - for overcoming unpaved areas, and trial - for other obstacles.
For this, a very soft tire carcass is used, the maximum width and elasticity of the rubber compound for better grip.
The FIM European regulation for enduro has a limit on the height of the tread used, so the block height on these tires is lower than on motocross tires. These tires are used with mousses instead of tubes to maximize the effect of low pressure inside the tire without the fear of blowing or spinning the tire.
All-terrain tires
Also, most manufacturers produce all-round types of tires, amateur format, combining cross-country and enduro characteristics. (Usually these are old models that no longer satisfy athletes, but are in demand.) Among the tires for enduro, there are also models of a universal format that are suitable for use in both cartri-cross and enduro, can be used with tubes and mousse.
Running in road tires
Having bought and installed new tires on a motorcycle, do not rush to check its adhesion at maximum speeds and angles of inclination.
Each new tire must undergo a run-in, during which its carcass, bandage and rubber layer are run in and reach the design characteristics. It is believed that the distance is 100 km. enough to break in a new wheel. After passing it, do not forget to check the pressure in the wheel, as well as inspect it for proper fit and possible geometry violations. If there are no problems, the wheel is ready for full operation.
It must be remembered that most motor rubber models are coated with a special compound before use, which prevents it from drying out and aging during storage. It is believed that rubber coated with this composition retains its properties for five years. After installing a new wheel, you must carefully erase this layer during break-in, gradually increasing the angle of the motorcycle to the maximum values \u200b\u200bthat you use during operation. But remember that by erasing the protective composition, you start the process of drying the rubber compound.
And after 2 years, regardless of the mileage, the wheel will need to be changed.
It must be remembered that tires require running-in not only before operation, but also after winter storage. A layer of dried rubber forms on the surface of the wheel, which must be carefully wiped off during the first rides of the new season.
Tire pressure
If you bought your motorcycle new from an authorized dealer, it must have a sticker indicating the recommended pressure for the front and rear wheels. As a rule, this information is placed on the rear swingarm of the motorcycle. In the future, most motorcyclists are guided precisely by the numbers indicated in it, naively believing that they have optimal pressure for all occasions. In fact, the values indicated on the pendulum, at best, are suitable for rubber, which the motorcycle is equipped with at the factory.
In reality, in order to find the optimal tire pressure, we need to take into account not only the motorcycle model, but also the tire model, the weight of passengers and luggage, as well as the conditions of this particular trip.
And the first thing you need to build on is the rubber model installed on the motorcycle. Each motorcycle manufacturer posts on its website information about the recommended pressure in each of its tire models.
These data take into account not only the features of the type of motor rubber we are interested in (tourist, sports, etc.), but also the design features of each model and the technologies used in it. This is especially true when the motorcycle is used "not for its intended purpose."
For example, when a sportbike is fitted with touring tires and set off on a journey; or when a road builder is used for kart training with uncompromising racing slicks. Remember, in such cases, you need to focus not on the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturers, but on the information of the engineers who developed your tire model.
But that's not all! If we return to the ground and look at the real operating conditions of motor tires, we will see that on the same tires someone goes to work and to a party place, someone travels to neighboring regions and countries, and someone does not get out from the karting track.
How to adjust the pressure in each of these cases?
General recommendations will be quite simple. Let's say you have a road bike with the recommended pressure on the swingarm: 2.25 BAR at the front and 2.5 BAR at the rear. If you have road or road-sport tires, then this pressure is more suitable for touring on a lightly loaded motorcycle. In this case, the contact patch will be smaller, the tire will dent less, and, accordingly, its wear will be slower. If you are traveling with a passenger and several cases for very long distances and at high speeds, it is better to increase the pressure in the rear wheel to 2.8 - 3.0 BAR.
After running several thousand kilometers in this mode, the rear wheel will most likely form a flat ground. But the carcass of the tire will not suffer, and there will be no danger of its destruction. The pressure in the front wheel should not be raised above 2.5 BAR on powerful heavy motorcycles, and 2.3 BAR on medium-sized vehicles. If you increase the pressure in the front wheel even more, then the tire life will not increase from this, and the likelihood of losing grip during braking will increase.
In the city, motorcyclists most often ride without a passenger, make more maneuvers, accelerate and brake. The importance of the tire resource in this case gives way to grip properties. The cost of a mistake, loss of traction and unplanned slipping can be unreasonably high. Under these conditions, on an average motorcycle weighing about 200 kg, in road and sport tires, it makes sense to maintain a pressure of about 2.2 BAR in both tires. Thus, we increase the contact patch and help the rubber warm up faster for better grip. Naturally, the life of the tire decreases with decreasing pressure. But you need to be aware of what is more important: the durability of the rubber or the traction reserve.
On powerful liter motorcycles, the loads on the rear wheel - and therefore wear - are even higher. And only the owner himself chooses the balance between road grip and the wear rate of the rear wheel.
Finally, a go-kart or racing track. A place where tire resource does not play any role.
Only the coupling parameters of the rubber with the canvas of the race track are important. Numerous experiments and experiments undertaken by people who regularly test motorcycles on karts and racing tracks - motorcycle journalists, experts and athletes - show that most sports, road and road-touring tires provide the best traction at a pressure of 2.1 BAR - on the front wheel , and 1.9BAR - on the back, on cold tires. For some rubber models, this value may differ slightly, but in most cases its difference fits into the error of a conventional pressure gauge manufactured in the People's Republic of China.
Lowering the pressure further does not add traction and only worsens the handling of the motorcycle. When the pressure in the front wheel drops below 1.9 BAR, when cornering, the bike's handlebars begin to bend, that is, it tries to turn in the direction of the turn. If the rear tire loses pressure to 1.6 BAR, then in corners the rear of the motorcycle begins to float on the pavement, there is a feeling that is best described by the word “squish”.
Given that the pressure applied on sports tracks allows for the greatest traction of motor tires, many people use it when driving in the city, where the margin of the handle can be a great help when making detour maneuvers or during emergency braking. But you need to understand that tire wear at such a pressure will be higher, and its resource will be less.
Special mention should be made of powerful sport bikes, which often have a recommended pressure of 2.5 - 3.0 BAR on the swingarms. It must be understood that such motorcycles wear tires much more intensively. And the resource of the same rear wheel model on a road bike and on some Eradin will differ by 2 times. Partly recommended high pressure allows you to slightly extend the difficult life of the “cylinders” on such motorcycles. But don't be under any illusions. When you try to go through a "knee" turn, such a high pressure in the wheel can easily send you into a slippery.
If, on the other hand, you regularly train on sports tracks, then most likely you already have special racing tires on your motorcycle.
As already mentioned, this rubber has a special thermal regime. And if for ordinary sports rubber the working temperature is considered to be 50 ° C - 60 ° C, then the temperature of racing rubber in a warm state reaches 100 ° C. Naturally, the pressure in such rubber in the last laps of the race and in the cold state is seriously different.
As a rule, the pressure in the rear wheel "cold" in such tires ranges from 1.4 BAR to 1.6 BAR, and in the front - from 1.5 BAR to 2.1 BAR. Such low numbers are often shocking to beginners who see the 2.9 on the swingarm of their new "liter" sportbike.BAR. But it is these indicators that allow the tires to quickly warm up to the design temperature and increase the pressure in the wheels to operating values.
In this case, unless you are a seasoned road rider who plays with tire pressure, adjusting the behavior of the motorcycle to the characteristics of different tracks, we recommend that you strictly adhere to the values recommended for your particular racing tire by its manufacturer.
Motocross tire pressure
Motocross tire pressure is 1.2-0.8 BAR. The main rule: the softer the soil, the higher the pressure. In this case, it is necessary to take into account both the properties of a particular track and the style of the rider.
In classic enduro, mousses with different pressures are used instead of chambers: 0.4-0.9 BAR, depending on the type of tracks.
Custom tire selection
On various forums, you can often find questions from beginner motorcyclists regarding the possibility of installing a rear wheel wider than the stock motorcycle. Most often this is due to the fact that in their eyes a wide rear wheel looks more sporty and attractive compared to a narrow one. Often, some draw analogies with car wheels of a larger diameter and width. We will not argue that no matter how wide the wheel is on the old Super Truck, in the eyes of beautiful strangers, it still will not compete with the shiny and illuminated Golda.
And just try to understand the physics of the process.
So, what can we expect if we firmly decided to install a non-standard rear wheel with a wider width on the motorcycle.
The first problem that we will face is that the rim remains the same width as before. That is, a wheel of greater width, stretched on a narrow rim, does not become wider. It flattens and becomes higher than stock. Its diameter grows, the speedometer starts to lie, the back of the motorcycle rises a little. But most importantly, the tire profile carefully calculated by the manufacturer is violated.
In 2012, in the Russian championship SHKMG, a single type and size of rubber was approved for all classes and types of motorcycles - 190/55/17. Given that the rear wheel disc of 600cc sportbikes is designed for size 180/55/17. Such a replacement did not bring big changes to the behavior of the motorcycle. Although some athletes, for example, Ilona Sergeeva, noted the worst grip on non-standard rubber in the extreme angles of inclination.
Another example of using a narrow rim and wide tire is the KTM RC 390 and KTM Duke 390. They come stock with a 150/60-17 rear wheel. This means that we will not be able to use the entire surface area of the tire, and the contact patch will be lower than calculated for this model in this size. All this raises questions regarding the optimality of the selected rubber size. We noticed this nuance back in May 2014, during the KTM Duke 39 test.0. And in July 2015, while shooting the RC 390 at the Firsanovka karting track, MotoRRika team rider Ivan Gorev did not take into account this feature of the motorcycle and sent KTM into slippery conditions, missing the rear wheel.
If we're not happy with a simple tire change while keeping the stock rim, and we decide to go further with a wider rear rim on our bike, then other problems stand in our way. It is necessary that the disk and the wheel are normally located in the pendulum and do not touch it when moving. The driven star of a non-standard disk can be shifted to the side relative to the leading star, which will quickly "finish" the chain of the motorcycle.
If we managed to get around all these problems, then, as planned, we get a motorcycle with a rear wheel wider than the original.
Trying to ride such a motorcycle, we will notice that its handling has noticeably deteriorated. And now it takes more effort to "put" the bike in a turn. Why did it happen? The fact is that a motorcycle with a wide rear wheel has to lean at a greater angle, applying more effort, to pass the same turn at the same speed. That is why engineers and experts are well aware of the rule: the more wheels already installed on a motorcycle, the more willingly it “dives” into a turn and steers easier.
Therefore, even on powerful "liter" sportbikes, for which every square millimeter of wheel grip with asphalt is worth its weight in gold, you rarely see rear tires wider than 190mm. or 200mm.
Wheel marking
180/55 ZR 17
Profile width in mm, 180.
Profile height in percent of width, 55.
Tire design radial, ZR.
