Whether you have a need for speed, a sense of exploration, a love of mud, or a career in agriculture or emergency services, you appreciate the capabilities of your trusted ATV or UTV side-by-side. ATVs combine the lightweight maneuverability of a motorcycle with the ruggedness of a specialized off-road truck. As such, performing a full service brake job on an ATV is a sort of mash-up between motorcycle brakes and car/truck automotive brakes.
If you’re an experienced gearhead, chances are that you’re already well aware of the procedure but if you’re new to powersports or you’d like to learn how to do basic maintenance yourself instead of paying a shop to do it for you, we’ll teach you how to change out your own brakes. It’s an easy job and not only will you improve the safety and performance of your ride, you’ll feel the satisfaction of a job well-done that you did yourself. Let’s begin!
Once you become acclimated to the way your ATV accelerates, handles, and stops, you learn the individual performance capabilities of your chosen make, model, and configuration. It’s usually pretty easy to determine a serious mechanical failure or a seriously worn or damaged component, but brakes are often overlooked until the wear has become so extreme that they no longer function properly or are completely obliterated from overuse. We’re going to want to avoid getting to that point by periodically inspecting the condition of your brakes and paying attention to certain riding habits (as discussed in our previous entry, ATV Brake Basics).
Learn to hone in on instinct and trust your senses. When you apply the brakes and you feel excess vibration or judder, or if the vehicle itself has difficulty coming to a stop, these are telltale signs that your ATV’s brakes need immediate service.
Now, onto the job itself.
Lock down the emergency brake/parking brake to prevent the vehicle from rolling as you start to loosen the wheel lug nuts.
With your socket wrench, begin to break loose the lug nuts on all of your wheels. Don’t remove them totally; just loosen them up so that they’ll be easier to take off once you get the machine up on a lift or on stands. This is going to require a bit of muscle, so don’t be surprised if the lug nuts don’t want to give immediately (it should be of concern if the lug nuts DID come off easy and without even the slightest effort). If the lug nuts are putting up more of a fight than you were expecting, try using a penetrating oil like PB B’laster to remove some of the metal corrosion that is seizing up the nuts and lug studs.
After all of the lug nuts have been loosened, raise the ATV with either an ATV stand or a hydraulic lift. You don’t need to raise it several feet in the air, just a few inches so that the tires are off the ground. This will keep the stand/lift stable. Fully remove all those loosened lug nuts and set them aside close to you, but not too close where you’ll risk knocking them over and having them roll around your garage/driveway and get lost.
Remove the wheels and you will be able to see the brake rotors and brake calipers.
(If your ATV has brake caliper guards, these will need to come off in order to service the caliper.)
The brake caliper is held in position by a pair of slide pin bolts. These attach the caliper onto the knuckle. Remove the slide pin bolts and then remove the caliper from the rotor. Be careful not to let it hang from the brake line by its own weight.
Remove the spindle pin located in the center of the wheel hub. Pull off the wheel hub. On the backside of the wheel hub, you will see a series of bolts. These secure the rotor to the hub. Use your socket wrench to loosen and remove these bolts. The old brake rotor is now ready to be removed. Remove the old rotor and replace with your brand new one. Secure the new rotor onto the hub by reinstalling the bolts that were removed just earlier. Make sure to check your ATV owner’s manual for proper torque specifications (use your torque wrench).
Reinstall the wheel hub.
Unscrew the debris covers with a flathead screwdriver. You should be able to see the bolts that lock the pads inside the caliper. Use an Allen key to loosen the brake pad bolts but don’t completely remove them. Now that the brake pads are loose, gently wiggle them back and forth to get them out of the brake caliper (DO NOT USE HEAVY FORCE. This can damage the caliper pistons.) Use your small C-clamp to compress the pistons back inside the caliper. Lightly increase pressure; don’t do it to quickly or else you risk ruining the caliper. Install your new brake pads.
Reinstall the bolts and debris covers, place your wheels back onto their respective hubs and tighten the wheel lug nuts to factory spec with your torque wrench. DO NOT USE AN AIR WRENCH to fasten the wheel lug nights. This can cause uneven torque which carries the potential for ruining wheels, wheel hubs, and for causing uneven handling and braking performance.
Congratulations! You’ve changed your ATV’s brakes all by yourself!
There are certain dos and dont’s when it comes to riding that can be detrimental to the lifespan of your ATV’s brakes. For example, mudding is absolute murder on standard brakes. It’s not uncommon for riders to tear through a brand new set of brakes in a few hours of mudding. That’s why aftermarket parts manufacturers such as Race Driven have developed dedicated, mud-specific brake parts. Another example is the use of standard brakes in a high-speed environment, such as on a race course or motocross event. The OEM brakes are designed to perform in typical, low-stress conditions and are not intended for the heavy use and abuse of motorsports competition.
For an in-depth lesson on brake science, check out the second part of our ATV Brake Basics readthrough.
Keeping your brakes in good condition is critical for ATV maintenance. Once your brakes start to wear out, you could be putting yourself into dangerous situations.
You need to be able to stop quickly and successfully at all times on an ATV.
Mud and moisture is the main killer of ATV brake pads, as well as excessive use. Brake pads do their job best under dry conditions. I’m not saying avoid mud, that’s the best part of off-roading, but it’s just something to be aware of.
To complete a successful brake pad swap out, the first thing you need to be aware of is if you have disk brakes or drum brakes.
Most newer quads you will see with disk brakes for every tire. Hydraulic disk brakes are the norm now a days, but you still see drum brakes here and there, and more on older four wheelers. The hydraulic disk brakes are so popular because they stop so much more effectively, limiting the amount of ATV accidents and injuries.
You will be able to easily tell if your brakes are disk or drum brakes by looking for the brake system behind the tire or on the axle. Here are some examples:
ATV Disk BrakesYou will notice where the ATV disk brakes got their name, there’s an actual disk that the brake pads press against to slow the machine down.
These are very common for sport or racing quads. The front disk brakes will very similar except they will most likely be behind the front tire, usually on both sides of the front wheels.
This is because the front brakes are used more often and are so much more critical to slowing the machine down quickly.
ATV Drum BrakesThe drum brakes will look like this picture, they are enclosed with the brake shoes being pressed onto the the wall of the drum inside the drum itself.
These are more often found on older quads or on utility ATVs on the rear wheels. Since the front brakes are most important, it’s usually fine for the the back brakes to be the less effective drum style brake system.
After you figure out which brake system you have, drum or disk, you can get the parts and do a brake pad change.
If you do have drum brakes but want disk brakes, they sell pretty good Disk Brake Conversion Kits on Amazon, just make sure to get the right kit for your make and model.
But what type of pads will you want to get? Let’s talk about the different brake pad materials.
There are three common types of brake pad material to choose from. Ceramic, Metallic, and Organic. Ceramic are usually the most expensive but run a lot cleaner. They create less brake dust which in turn causes less wear and tear to your other brake system components.
Metallic brake pads are popular for sport quads because of the high temperatures they can withstand. But they tend to be noisy and rough on the rotors. Semi-Metallic brake pads are optimal for an everyday rider.
Organic brake pads are the cheapest option of the three. They are easy on the rotors, and contain no metallic material. The down side is they offer the least performance and slowest braking time.
Semi-Metallic brake pads are the most common and best for everyday use. Here is a link to Semi-Metallic ATV Brake Pads on Amazon to help get your search started.
Make sure you get the right set for your make and model.
First step is to make sure you have all the tools you need to complete the job. Unless you like running out to the parts store in the middle of a job. Most of these tools are very common and already in most garages.
Eyes are important.Once you have all your tools and parts ready, it’s time to replace the brake pads. This is a pretty easy straight forward process.
First remove the ATV tire and wheel assembly from the machine. It’s best practice to loosen the lugs while the ATV is on the ground. Then lift the quad and remove the lugs and wheel.
This is usually done with a socket set, sometimes with an allen wrench. Look on the back of the caliper and you will notice two bolts that hold the brake assembly on.
Remove these bolts and the whole assembly comes off the rotor. The pads may still be on the caliper held there by two pins.
You will need to suppress the pins on the caliper to remove the brake pads. This is where you’ll use the vice grips or clamp.
Once suppressed the brake pads will easily fall right out of the caliper housing.
This part can be a bit of a pain, but if you get the vice grips on just right you won’t have any problems.
You will need to compress the caliper piston with a c clamp or something to get the new brake pads in the caliper.
Once you compress the caliper piston you can remove the clamp and insert the new brake pads.
Remember to set the pads back on the caliper pins just the way the old ones were installed. You will need the vice grips again to compress the pins to put the new pads on.
Simply put the brake assembly back onto the machine by bolting the caliper back into place. There you have it, you just changed your brake pads. Not that difficult of a job, and can be easily done in less than an hour once you know what you’re doing.
Put the wheel and tire back onto the machine and lower the jack.
It’s best to loosely put the lugs on while the machine is jacked up, and then firmly tighten the lugs after you’ve lower the quad back to the ground.
Press the brake down to be sure that your brake is working properly. The first or first two pumps on the pedal are soft as the piston started at a new point on the backside the brake pad.
This might be a good time to check your brake fluid and replace or add any if needed. If you want to bleed the brakes and get all new fluid in there check out this article on How To Bleed Your Brake Fluid On An ATV.
The average rider can go a few years before needing new brake pads. It’s not a good idea to judge if you need pads by how long it’s been since last replacement though. Since everyone rides their machine differently and with differing frequency, there are better ways to check of you need to do a replacement.
The best way to tell if you need to replace your ATV brake pads is by looking at the thickness of the pads.
You could always measure them by hand, but a quick look is enough to tell if they’re worn out.
In this picture the pads on the right are worn and the pads on the left are new.
Another way to tell is if you hear a scraping noise while using your brakes when you’re riding. If you press down hard on the brakes and notice a jittery feeling in your handle bars, that’s another sign you should check out your brake pads.
Sharing is caring!
Set for one caliper.
Brake pads designed for extreme driving conditions.
One of the most durable lasts.
2003 Outlander 400 - Hydraulic Brake
2004 Outlander 330/400 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brake (4 X 4)
2004 Outlander 400 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brake (4 X 4)
2005 Outlander 330/400 STD 4X4 - Hydraulic Brake 4X4
2005 Outlander 400 XT 4X4 - Hydraulic Brake 4X4
2005 Outlander MAX 400 - Brakes
2006 Outlander 400 STD 4 X 4 - Brakes 2009 400 XT 4 X 4 - Brakes
2006 Outlander 650 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brake
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2006 Outlander 800 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brake
Brake
2006 Outlander MAX 400 STD 4 X 4 - Brakes
2006 Outlander MAX 400 XT 4 X 4 - Brakes
2006 Outlander MAX 650 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2006 Outlander MAX 650 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
MAX 800 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brake
2007 Outlander 400 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 400 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 500 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 650 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 650 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 800 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander 800 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander MAX 500 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander MAX 500 XT 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
2007 Outlander MAX 650 STD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
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2007 Outlander MAX 800 LTD 4 X 4 - Hydraulic Brakes
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XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 400 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 400 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 500 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 500 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 650 STD
2008 Outlander 650 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 800 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander 800 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 400 EFI STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 400 EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 400 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 400 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 500 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 500 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 650 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 650 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 800 LTD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 800 STD - Hydraulic Brakes
2008 Outlander MAX 800 XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 500 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 500 EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 650 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 650 EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 800R EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander 800R EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander Max 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander Max 500 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
650 EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander Max 800R EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander Max 800R EFI Ltd - Hydraulic Brakes
2009 Outlander Max 800R EFI XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander 500 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander 650 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander 800R EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 500 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 500 EFI Ltd - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 650 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 800R EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2010 Outlander Max 800R EFI Ltd - Hydraulic Brakes
2011 Outlander 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes Except Europe
2011 Outlander 500 EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander 650 EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander 800R EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander 800R EFI, XMR - Brakes
2011 Outlander Max 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes Except Europe
2011 Outlander Max 500 EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander Max 650 EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander Max 800R EFI - Brakes
2011 Outlander Max 800R EFI Ltd - Brakes
2012 Outlander 500EFI STD & XT - Hydraulic Brakes
0009 2012 Outlander 800REFI Xmr - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander MAX 500EFI STD & XT - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander MAX 650EFI STD, XT & XT-P - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander MAX 800REFI LTD - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander MAX 800REFI STD, XT & XT-P - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander Max STD, XT, 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2012 Outlander STD, XT, 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2013 OUTLANDER MAX STD, XT, 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2013 OUTLANDER STD , XT, 400 EFI - Hydraulic Brakes
2014 OUTLANDER 400 EFI, STD, XT - Brakes CU, INT
2014 OUTLANDER MAX 400 EFI, STD, XT - Brakes CU, INT
, XT (INTERNATIONAL ONLY) - Brakes
2013 MAVERICK - Brakes
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2014 COMMANDER MAX 1000_DPS, XT - Brakes _22C1404
2014 COMMANDER MAX 1000_DPS, XT - Brakes
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2014 MAVERICK 1000_XMR - Brakes _22C1406
2014 MAVERICK 1000_XMR - Brakes
2014 MAVERICK MAX 1000, STD, XRS, XRS-DPS - Brakes
2015 COMMANDER MAX 1000_DPS_XT - Brakes
2015 MAVERICK 1000_STD_XRS_XRS-DPS - Brakes
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2014 COMMANDER MAX 1000_DPS, XT - Brakes 9Outlander / Renegade NGB FA317 / FA414 or selection of an analogue, call us at +7 (499) 391-24-91, or leave a request for a call back.
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Here you will find spare parts for Arctic Cat, BRP (Ski Doo/Lynx, Can-Am, Sea Doo), Yamaha, Polaris, Kawasaki, CF Moto.
We work according to the needs of the client, we offer you - original and non-original spare parts for snowmobiles, ATVs, jet skis and boats. We combine the original / analogue.
Available from analogues: Kimpex parts, Dayco belts, Gates belts, Rusam shock absorbers, WSM pistons and gasket sets, Bronco ball joints and steering tips, All Balls crosses and bushings, SPI pistons and cylinders, SP1 brake pads and repair kits, Cometic Gasket gaskets, LASleeve liners, Wiseco pistons and gaskets, ProX pistons, Yit shocks, Camoplast tracks, CVTech CVTs.
