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A broken tractor tire valve stem can put a damper on your day. We use our tractors in some pretty rough terrain, but I’ve found that dealing with brush and felled trees is my danger zone. Things get bent, broken, stabbed, and wrapped up when I’m in a mess of brush, which leaves me with some inconvenient breakdowns.
Most modern small farm tractors have tractor tire valve stems that include a metal body. You might think this makes them sturdy and resilient, but they’re not. Being a thin metal part, one well-placed piece of wood is all it takes to shear the stem off, whereas a rubber stem may give, bend, and return to position.
It’s never fun to have a flat tire on anything, let alone your tractor. What’s more, it seems that you’re almost guaranteed that you’ll get a flat tractor tire in the worst of spots and the worst of times. Be it mud, snow, or brush; it’ll be a challenge to your temperament and ingenuity at best.
If you have a bucket loader and a flat front tire, then you’re in luck! Using the edge of your bucket, it’s pretty easy to lift the entire front end of your tractor off the ground and out of whatever mess you’re mired in. Hydraulics do fade, and bucket loaders will leak, so be sure you put something under the tractor to act as a jack stand of sorts for safety. If you have a flat rear tire and you don’t have a backhoe attachment on at the time, then you may need to get creative with other farm implements or get a good old bottle jack. If all else fails, you may be able to avoid lifting your tractor completely.
Where is the stem? Your tire is likely already partially popped off the rim, so rotate your tire either by driving on it, or spinning it if you manage to lift the tractor. Usually, the best position for the stem will be at the 3 o’clock position or the 9 o’clock position, but the environment may dictate the orientation for you.
In either case, get the wheel turned so that you can access both the inside and outside of the stem hole at the same time.
Most OEM tractor tire valve stems include a nut on the outside of the rim. Because of the design of these stems, we need to remove this outer nut so we can knock the rest of the stem inward to remove it. For the sake of sanity, a cordless impact tool with an appropriately sized socket will do the trick, but if you don’t have one, you’ll likely need help.
I found that when trying to remove a stem with a ratchet wrench, the stem spins in the wheel. Be prepared to have someone hold the inside portion of the broken tractor tire valve stem with a set of vice grips or long reach pliers. Avoid dropping the broken stem in the tire; you don’t want to go fishing for it later. If you do have an impact wrench, I found that using a length of coat hanger wire to catch the remainder of the stem works out well.
Just poke the end of the wire into the hole in the middle of the stem on the inside, unbolt the nut, and the stem should slide down the wire and into your hand.
For those of us using an off-the-shelf generic rubber stem, be sure you get the correct size stem for the hole in your wheel. Bring the old stem with you to the parts store, or measure before you go. Most valve stems are one of two standard hole sizes and any big box store with an automotive section or tractor equipment section should have them both. If you’re not sure which size it is, buy both and hold on to the other stem for another tire.
Thankfully, there are tools for pulling a tractor tire valve stem into a wheel. Stem puller tools come in various shapes and sizes, but the most common and cheapest tool is a simple steel cable with a fitting on one end to thread onto the stem and a handle on the other. If you thought ahead and bought a spare OEM tractor tire stem, then you may not need a pulling tool, just a wrench and socket.
You may additionally need a spoonbill tire tool, a piece of steel rod, or a long breaker bar to manipulate the tire to gain access to the inside of the rim.
For a pull-through rubber tractor tire valve stem, feed the pulling tool into the wheel from the outside. Remove the threaded cap from your new stem and thread it onto the puller dangling inside the tire. Make sure the neck of the stem finds the hole in the rim and pull the stem out by the handle of the puller tool.
Pull until the tractor tire valve stem seats in the rim. If it’s too tight to pull, wrap the stem tool’s cable around the handle of a socket breaker bar and use it as a leverage multiplier. It should seat with a little tug. If you’re having a hard time pulling the stem through, try some dish detergent on the stem. Never use grease, WD-40, PB Blaster, or anything that may be deleterious to rubber. Those products may eat your valve stem over time.
Large tires, especially tall sidewall tires, are easy to manipulate on a wheel.
Smaller tires like the ones on the front axle of this compact tractor may require an automotive type tire machine to remove from the rim.Now that you’ve managed to install your stem, you have the challenge of airing a tire up with a broken bead. The “bead” is the edges of the tire that seal against the rim. First, use dish detergent or soapy water to slick up the beads of the tire and edges of the rim. If you were able to lift your tractor, put a ratchet strap around your tire and tighten it. This will compress the tire and help you get a seal. If you didn’t lift the tractor, you might have to roll a little on your flat tire to get a ratchet strap around your tire.
Once you have a ratchet strap in place, you may need to strike your tire with a mallet or dead blow hammer to finish seating the bead. Keep hitting the tire as you fill it with air to completely seal the bead. Once the tire holds air, spray the beads with soapy water and check for air bubbles. Strike the tire in the areas that show bubbles until they stop, which indicates that the bead sealed fully against the wheel.
If you’re tired of flat tires and broken tractor tire valve stems, consider using tractor tire fluid, especially foam loading. Foam loading will turn your tire into solid foam core tire, which is difficult to replace once worn, but will never go flat on you.
Have you had to change a valve stem creatively? Let us know what challenges you overcame in the comments section below!
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Commonly used on small tractors for maintenance purposes, tubed tires have many advantages over their tubeless counterparts.
First, if the bead (the seam between the tire and the rim) on a tubeless tire is broken, all the air will immediately fly out. However, a tube tire will usually not be affected by a small bead seam leak. Tubeless tires that do not hold air can easily be converted to tube tires; sometimes the inner tubes become worn or punctured and need to be replaced. Either way, installing a new tube is easy with basic tools in just a few steps. The installation of the tube is the same for tube and tubeless tires.
Remove the wheel from the tractor following the manufacturer's recommended procedure. If it is not already deflated, bleed as much air out of the tire as possible by removing the valve stem stem. This is a spring-loaded device inside the air valve that prevents air from escaping from the tire after it has been inflated. Use a valve core removal tool and turn it counterclockwise to remove the valve core.
Hit the sidewall of the tire with a rubber mallet to pry the bead off the rim on both sides of the tire.
Be careful not to hit the rim. Only one side of the bead needs to be loosened for this process, although loosening both sides greatly simplifies the process.
Pry the tire bead over the rim using a tire iron, flat blade screwdriver, crowbar, or similarly shaped tool. Gradually lift small sections of the tire off the rim. Run a small section of tire over the outside of the rim, then use another wringer to move the section of tire over the rim about 2 inches from the first section. Continue in this manner, using several tire irons (or other flat devices) until the tire is clamped outside the rim around the entire circumference of the wheel on one side.
Once the front side of the tire is clear of the rim, use a rubber mallet to fully drive the protruding air valve (the rubber component containing the valve stem) into the tire. Remove the old tube and valve with pliers.
Inspect the inside of the tire for possible causes of previous tube failure.
Locate and remove any sharp objects and insert the new tube into the tire in the opposite direction from the exit of the old tube. First, add a small amount of air to the tube so that the "folds" on the inner tube do not get pinched when the inner tube is inflated. Align the air valve so that it fits through the hole in the rim.
Pull the tire bead back through the rim using the lever and hammer removal tools. Pay close attention to the position of the air valve to make sure it does not slip into the tire or twist during installation.
Slowly inflate the tire so that the bladder is evenly distributed over the inside of the tire. To complete the job, inflate the tire to operating pressure.
A bent air valve will rub against the rim until it leaks. If the air valve is not completely straight, deflate the tube, carefully maneuver the inner tube to straighten the valve, then inflate again.
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MTZ-80, MTZ-82 tractor steering malfunctions
To malfunctions of the MTZ-80, MTZ-82 tractor steering, when which the operation of the tractor is prohibited, include: jamming steering, free play (backlash)
steering wheel is more than allowed, large wear of steering parts drive, loose fastening and violation of the cotter pin of the hinges steering rods.
Even a slight
difficulty in driving can cause an accident, so work prohibited on these vehicles.
Main malfunctions of the MTZ-80 steering, MTZ-82
Uneven resistance to rotation steering wheel, increased force on the steering wheel
Damaged worm bearings, bent rods - Replace damaged details.
Increased engagement force worm-sector - Adjust engagement.
Worm nut loose - Tighten nut and loosen 1/6 turnover. Cotter pin.
Increased instability of the front wheels while driving
Excessive play in the front wheel tapered bearings or in tie rod joints - Adjust the tightness of the hub bearings (flange) of the front wheels, tighten the steering ball pin nuts thrust.
The tightening of the nuts for fastening the steering arm, sector or swivel arms - Tighten the nuts.
Increased steering wheel play
steering linkage, check tightness of steering box nuts and swivel levers.
Faulty steering of tractors MTZ-80, MTZ-82 with hydraulic booster
Increased effort on the steering wheel
Insufficient oil - Check the oil level and need to top up
Increased oil leakage, the setting of the metering pump valves is violated - Replace metering pump or valve block.
Air in the system - Identify and repair leaks suction line.
Increased steering wheel free play
oil foaming in the hydraulic system - Eliminate air leaks in system by checking the tightness of the suction lines
and the serviceability of the cuffs of the hydraulic system pumps and the steering management. Bleed the steering system.
Chassis failures tractors MTZ-80, MTZ-82
The most common malfunction of the chassis of tractors MTZ-80, MTZ-82 have tire pressure incontinence, which can be due to leakage valve spool and tire chamber puncture.
In the first case it is necessary replace the spool, and in the second, dismantle the tire, remove the chamber, identify the puncture site, seal the camera, pump it up with air, use water or soap suds to check tightness of the glued place, let the air out of the chamber and mount the tire.
Turning tires on rims or chafing bead against rim flange
Tire pressure low - Inflate tires to correct pressure.
Rapid tire carcass wear and delamination front wheels
Front wheel toe-in misaligned - Adjust convergence.
Air pressure mismatch in the tires of the front and rear wheels standards - Set the recommended pressure in the tires of the wheels.
Front side tilt and wheel rattle
Broken front suspension spring - Replace the spring.
Brake system malfunctions tractor MTZ-80, MTZ-82
Various malfunctions of the brake systems of the tractor MTZ-80, MTZ-82 lead to incomplete or incessant braking, as well as to simultaneous braking of the wheels.
Receiver pressure rises slowly
Air leak through compressor valves - Remove head compressor, clean the valves and seats, wipe them, damaged replace parts.
Seizure or wear of the piston rings of the compressor - Remove the head and compressor cylinder, clean the rings, replace them if necessary.
Air leakage from the pneumatic system MTZ-80, MTZ-82 - loosely tightened or pipeline nuts, fittings, clamps are damaged.
Reveal leaks and repair them by
tightening connections or replacing damaged parts.
Coupling head rubber seal damaged - Replace damaged seals.
Coupling head O-ring nut loose - Tighten the O-ring nuts.
Dirt under the connection head valve - Clean valve.
Dust cap in contact with valve stem connection head - Eliminate.
Atmospheric port clogged, valve parts deformed, the diaphragm is torn, the fastening of the cover in the brake valve is loosened - Check the condition of the valve parts, replace if necessary, tighten the mounting bolts.
Worn or damaged air adapter stem seals - Replace stem or seal.
The pressure in the receiver drops rapidly when stop the engine
Pneumatic line leakage - Repair.
The pressure drops rapidly when the brake pedal
Broken air adapter diaphragm - Replace diaphragm.
Skewed, clogged or damaged inlet valve of the brake valve - Correct the distortion, clean the valve or replace it.
Insufficient pressure in the MTZ-80 receiver, MTZ-82
Air leak. The work of the pressure regulator is disturbed - Adjust pressure regulator.
Compressor suction or discharge valve not working - Clean valves, replace if worn.
Excessive wear of piston rings, occurrence of compressor rings - Clean or replace piston rings.
Increased oil emission from the compressor in pneumatic system
Seized or worn compressor piston rings - Clean or replace piston rings.
The pressure regulator often works (includes compressor) without air bleeding from the receiver
Pneumatic system leak - Find and repair the leak.
Tractor air pressure regulator MTZ-80, MTZ-82 operates in the safety valve mode
The adjusting cap is screwed on a large amount - Adjust regulator.
Jamming of the relief piston of the diaphragm assembly - Disassemble pressure regulator and remove jamming.
There is no gap between the unloader valve and the control bolt - Adjust the clearance of 0.
6-0.8 mm between the valve and the bolt, replace the relief valve if necessary.
No air supply to connecting hose through the air bleed valve
Air bleed valve stem not sunk enough in the regulator pressure - Fully screw the nut of the connecting hose onto union.
The pressure regulator switched the compressor to idle - Reduce the pressure in the receiver is below 0.65. MPa
Tractor trailer brakes MTZ-80, MTZ-82 operate inefficiently
The brake valve does not provide pressure in the control line 0.77-0.80 MPa - Adjust the brake valve and its drive.
The brake valve does not provide a pressure drop in the connecting lines to zero - Adjust the brake valve and its drive.
The pressure in the connecting line slowly drops to zero - Check pressure.
Trailer brakes release slowly
The adjustment of the brake valve and its drive is broken - Adjust.
When braking, the air adapter rod does not retracts
Brake valve does not work - Check the function of the valve and adjust.
