Keeping your brakes in good condition is critical for ATV maintenance. Once your brakes start to wear out, you could be putting yourself into dangerous situations. You need to be able to stop quickly and successfully at all times on an ATV.
Mud and moisture is the main killer of ATV brake pads, as well as excessive use. Brake pads do their job best under dry conditions. I’m not saying avoid mud, that’s the best part of off-roading, but it’s just something to be aware of.
To complete a successful brake pad swap out, the first thing you need to be aware of is if you have disk brakes or drum brakes.
Most newer quads you will see with disk brakes for every tire. Hydraulic disk brakes are the norm now a days, but you still see drum brakes here and there, and more on older four wheelers. The hydraulic disk brakes are so popular because they stop so much more effectively, limiting the amount of ATV accidents and injuries.
You will be able to easily tell if your brakes are disk or drum brakes by looking for the brake system behind the tire or on the axle. Here are some examples:
ATV Disk BrakesYou will notice where the ATV disk brakes got their name, there’s an actual disk that the brake pads press against to slow the machine down.
These are very common for sport or racing quads. The front disk brakes will very similar except they will most likely be behind the front tire, usually on both sides of the front wheels.
This is because the front brakes are used more often and are so much more critical to slowing the machine down quickly.
ATV Drum BrakesThe drum brakes will look like this picture, they are enclosed with the brake shoes being pressed onto the the wall of the drum inside the drum itself.
These are more often found on older quads or on utility ATVs on the rear wheels. Since the front brakes are most important, it’s usually fine for the the back brakes to be the less effective drum style brake system.
After you figure out which brake system you have, drum or disk, you can get the parts and do a brake pad change.
If you do have drum brakes but want disk brakes, they sell pretty good Disk Brake Conversion Kits on Amazon, just make sure to get the right kit for your make and model.
But what type of pads will you want to get? Let’s talk about the different brake pad materials.
There are three common types of brake pad material to choose from. Ceramic, Metallic, and Organic. Ceramic are usually the most expensive but run a lot cleaner. They create less brake dust which in turn causes less wear and tear to your other brake system components.
Metallic brake pads are popular for sport quads because of the high temperatures they can withstand. But they tend to be noisy and rough on the rotors. Semi-Metallic brake pads are optimal for an everyday rider.
Organic brake pads are the cheapest option of the three.
They are easy on the rotors, and contain no metallic material. The down side is they offer the least performance and slowest braking time.
Semi-Metallic brake pads are the most common and best for everyday use. Here is a link to Semi-Metallic ATV Brake Pads on Amazon to help get your search started. Make sure you get the right set for your make and model.
First step is to make sure you have all the tools you need to complete the job. Unless you like running out to the parts store in the middle of a job. Most of these tools are very common and already in most garages.
Once you have all your tools and parts ready, it’s time to replace the brake pads. This is a pretty easy straight forward process.
First remove the ATV tire and wheel assembly from the machine. It’s best practice to loosen the lugs while the ATV is on the ground. Then lift the quad and remove the lugs and wheel.
This is usually done with a socket set, sometimes with an allen wrench. Look on the back of the caliper and you will notice two bolts that hold the brake assembly on.
Remove these bolts and the whole assembly comes off the rotor. The pads may still be on the caliper held there by two pins.
You will need to suppress the pins on the caliper to remove the brake pads. This is where you’ll use the vice grips or clamp. Once suppressed the brake pads will easily fall right out of the caliper housing.
This part can be a bit of a pain, but if you get the vice grips on just right you won’t have any problems.
You will need to compress the caliper piston with a c clamp or something to get the new brake pads in the caliper.
Once you compress the caliper piston you can remove the clamp and insert the new brake pads.
Remember to set the pads back on the caliper pins just the way the old ones were installed. You will need the vice grips again to compress the pins to put the new pads on.
Simply put the brake assembly back onto the machine by bolting the caliper back into place.
There you have it, you just changed your brake pads. Not that difficult of a job, and can be easily done in less than an hour once you know what you’re doing.
Put the wheel and tire back onto the machine and lower the jack. It’s best to loosely put the lugs on while the machine is jacked up, and then firmly tighten the lugs after you’ve lower the quad back to the ground.
Press the brake down to be sure that your brake is working properly. The first or first two pumps on the pedal are soft as the piston started at a new point on the backside the brake pad.
This might be a good time to check your brake fluid and replace or add any if needed. If you want to bleed the brakes and get all new fluid in there check out this article on How To Bleed Your Brake Fluid On An ATV.
The average rider can go a few years before needing new brake pads. It’s not a good idea to judge if you need pads by how long it’s been since last replacement though.
Since everyone rides their machine differently and with differing frequency, there are better ways to check of you need to do a replacement.
The best way to tell if you need to replace your ATV brake pads is by looking at the thickness of the pads. You could always measure them by hand, but a quick look is enough to tell if they’re worn out.
In this picture the pads on the right are worn and the pads on the left are new.
Another way to tell is if you hear a scraping noise while using your brakes when you’re riding. If you press down hard on the brakes and notice a jittery feeling in your handle bars, that’s another sign you should check out your brake pads.
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$75.56
Product Description
You will receive 2 brake rotors to replace the front brakes on the following: 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 HD. New Race-Driven Standard Brake Rotors are made from tempered stainless steel for not only a great look but also optimal performance. As brake pads wear numerous times, the rotors are going to take a beating and need to be replaced. With our Standard Brake Rotors you will be receiving quality brake rotors guaranteed to replace your OEM rotors. Standard Rotors are designed to live up to if not surpass OEM standards. Race-Driven is committed to bringing the highest quality products to all riders at an affordable price. Customer Driven – Quality Driven – Race-Driven.
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As with any vehicle, the brakes on an ATV must work properly, as the safety of the driver depends on it.
Chinese spare parts, from which almost every ATV is assembled, are not of high quality. Some ATV models require service immediately after purchase. Therefore, the question of how to pump the brakes on an ATV is very relevant.
Contents
Bleeding the brakes on the ATV is required if it becomes noticeable that the efficiency of the discs has begun to decrease significantly. In this case, it is necessary to immediately check the integrity of all elements of the system, check the condition of the pads, discs, hoses, etc. If all components are in good condition, in this case it will be necessary to bleed the brakes of the ATV.
This procedure is quite simple, even an inexperienced driver who has recently purchased an ATV can handle it. However, in the process of work, you will need to show care, patience and some professionalism.
It is recommended to bleed the brakes with a partner.
This work must be treated responsibly. The safety of the driver of the ATV, as well as his passengers (if any) depends on the correctness and sequence of all actions.
If you are interested in how to bleed the brakes on the ZF Moto 500, Stels leopard 500, Stealth 500 GT or other models, it is enough to consider the general principles of modification. The process is identical for most ATV models. Bleeding the front and rear brakes is not much different.
Note that the brake circuits on ATVs are separate. The system has two brake reservoirs that are not connected to each other. They are responsible for stopping the rear or front wheels, respectively. On some models, the brake reservoir is responsible for all four wheels of the ATV.
If there are two tanks, the first one is on the steering wheel. He is responsible for the front wheels. The second brake reservoir is located on the frame. He, accordingly, stops the rear wheels.
To bleed the brake system, you will need to prepare the necessary tools. Required for work:
To bleed the brakes, you must first unscrew the cap that closes the brake reservoir. Next, you need to evaluate how much brake fluid is inside. Most often, it needs to be topped up. Pour brake fluid into the reservoir up to its very edges.
There must be no air bubbles inside the system. Therefore, periodically you need to control the liquid in the tank. If necessary, the composition is added.
Fit the prepared drain tube onto the fitting. The second end is lowered into a previously prepared container. Next, you need to ask your partner to squeeze the brake lever. It is not recommended to release it until the work is completed. Some models of ATVs will require you to depress the pedal. The fitting must be unscrewed 1/8 turn (sometimes more, depending on the model), and the key must be prepared in advance by 8.
Next, the brake lever is pressed, and at this moment the fitting is twisted. The handle is released, and then the procedure is carried out again. In this case, the amount of liquid inside the tank is constantly monitored. If necessary, a new composition is added to the system.
After some time, the partner will say that the handle (or pedal) has completely failed in its seat. However, at this moment, you can not let her go. After the information received from the partner, you will need to tighten the drain fitting.
The procedure is performed several times.
This must be done until clean (new) brake fluid is poured into the prepared container. It should not contain air bubbles. If they are, the new composition was not filled to the very top of the tank. This must be taken into account when changing the brake fluid in the system.
If the brake fluid needs to be replaced, it will be enough to purchase 0.5 liters of the product, which is enough for both circuits. However, it is worth noting that such an amount of brake fluid allows you to replace the composition with “jewelry” accuracy.
More often than not, the volume of the product is not enough, so it is better to purchase brake fluid with a margin. 1 liter is enough. If air bubbles need to be removed from the brake system, a liter is the minimum amount. Sometimes, to carry out such work, you need even more funds. Two liters of liquid may not be enough to find and drive out all the bubbles.
When the brake fluid is drained from the system, it will be necessary to bleed each of the existing calipers.
When this procedure is completed, you need to put the tank cover in its original place. Before that, you need to assess the condition of the rubber gasket. If it is worn, the seal will need to be replaced.
There must be no brake fluid left in the system at all. After the procedure, you will need to pour a new agent into the tank. This will take several hours. The liquid is poured into the tank, and then wait until it reaches the caliper. At this time, the fitting must be open.
If done correctly, there will be little resistance to the lever when applying the brake. If air gets into the system, it will fall through a little.
In this case, you will need to unscrew the fastener that secures the brake hose. You should try to bleed air out of the system. Next, you need to press the brake again, which should be moderately firm. If so, then the procedure was successful.
What do they say about POLARIS? Pretty affordable and easy.
To what extent is this so? What is the significant difference between these brands, with an insignificant difference in price? Let's try to figure it out together using the example of the top representatives of ATVs for assaulting serious mud areas - BRP CAN-AM OUTLANDER 1000 X-MR and POLARIS 1000 XP Sportsman High Lifter Edition.
Let's look at the price tag, because this is the first thing that attracts the attention of a potential buyer.
So, Polaris Sportsman XP 1000 High Lifter Edition = 1.405.000 rubles.
Double Can-Am OUTLANDER X MR 1000 = 1.609.000 r.
10% difference in price. And what can you get for this or that amount?
Let's start with the most noticeable elements - appearance.
They meet, as you know, by clothes and first impressions.
Pay attention to how the steering column is made and its plastic design.
If the “Canadian” has a steering wheel with hand protection, smoothly flowing into the elements of the body, then the representative of POLARIS has a bare metal steering shaft with a plastic visor.
ATVs were also painted with different results. Outlander's body panels are painted in bright glossy colors with a thick layer of varnish.
POLARIS painting is done in a variant of “minimalism” and simplicity.
The wheelbase of the Polaris High Lifter 1000 is 134 cm and has a single-seat layout. The frame is spatial tubular.
The wheelbase of the Outlander 1000X-MR is an impressive 150cm. After all, this ATV, despite the configuration with one seat, is built on a two-seat elongated frame of the MAX series, which gives it undeniable advantages in terms of cross-country ability and comfort. Due to the small overall dimensions, double ATVs do not have such a disadvantage as a deterioration in geometric cross-country ability. Even vice versa.
Unlike single-seat "short" counterparts, long-wheelbase ATVs allow you to overcome a steeper slope, and in deep puddles they have a higher chance to get out of the mud captivity precisely due to the elongated base.
Therefore, a few years ago, almost all athletes participating in trophy raids finally switched to ATVs with an extended base. And in terms of comfort on rough terrain, where a single ATV will mercilessly toss and roll over bumps, a two-seater model will go through the same section much more confidently and with less roll.
Stability on the trajectory, less tendency to roll over on a slope and in a turn - all these are the advantages of an extended two-seater base, not to mention the main possibility - to put a passenger in the back.
The BRP CAN-AM ATV frame is of SST design, a proprietary development of Canadian engineers. The smooth frame “rail” goes around all the important nodes of the ATV in a ring. It is lighter and more rigid than traditional tubular frames. In addition, it is smooth in the lower part, which does not allow the ATV to “hang” on an obstacle and increases its cross-country ability.
That is, in this case, we boldly say that in the case of POLARIS 1000 XP Sportsman High Lifter Edition - we get a single short-wheelbase ATV.
And the driver, this is noticeable from the side, actually crawls onto the rear axle, since the seat ends right above the rear axle.
Can-Am OUTLANDER X-MR 1000 is a representative of a two-seat family with a full long wheelbase and the ability to replace a quick-release luggage bag with a passenger seat in a few seconds. At the same time, both the driver and the passenger are between the axles and this adds comfort, since depreciation is much better.
The POLARIS single base “gifts” the driver with plastic footpegs, which are the connecting part between the front and rear wheel arches.
The “Canadian” has powerful aluminum running boards for both driver and passenger. And the passenger aluminum foot pads OUTLANDER X-MR will provide undeniable assistance to the owner in overcoming water and mud barriers - he will be able to rise, resting on them.
In addition, on the OUTLANDER we see installed wheel arch extensions and plastic protective pads on the suspension arms, which cut off dirt from anthers on the front and rear wheel drives.
At POLARIS SPORTSMAN, we see only bare levers.
Let's take a deeper look at the motors of these wild monsters.
American POLARIS offers us an 85 hp 1000cc inline engine.
The motor is located in the frame Sportsman XP 1000 High Lifter Edition longitudinally under the seat.
Its body is clearly visible at the level of the footpegs.
On the Canadian Can-Am Outlander , we see the updated V-twin 89 hp ROTAX -1000R , which is assembled at the Austrian BRP plant. The sides of the motor are covered with plastic casings. An overview of this motor can be read here.
First of all, it is worth explaining the advantage of the V-configuration as an increase in torque. The fact is that, unlike an in-line motor, a model such as a V-engine has a design in which forces act on the shaft tangentially from both sides. This makes it possible to achieve maximum shaft acceleration, i.e. more acceleration and better dynamics. The second notable advantage is the lower center of gravity.
In addition to increasing torque, one can note the compactness of V-type motors and note the greater rigidity of the crankshaft. This allows the engine not only to gain momentum faster, but also to work dynamically even at the limit of its capabilities.
The V-motor has a number of the listed advantages, but it is also more difficult and expensive to manufacture. Therefore, its price cannot be similar to the price of an in-line motor.
The POLARIS and BRP CAN-AM front suspensions have a similar A-arm design. But the rear suspension they are radically different.
If "American" POLARIS 1000 XP Sportsman High Lifter Edition we see a classic double-wishbone independent suspension from behind, then the “Canadian” shows us the legendary development of BRP engineers - TTI independent suspension with a minimum number of parts. This suspension maintains perfect directional stability at any speed, regardless of the condition of the track, since its design does not allow the rear wheels to “swing to the sides” and divert the rear from a given trajectory during the movement of the rear wheels.
At video , the work of the TTI rear suspension is clearly visible.
The brakes on the POLARIS 1000 XP Sportsman High Lifter Edition are equipped with a hydraulic disc system on each wheel.
On the Canadian Can-Am OUTLANDER , BRP engineers “unloaded” the rear wheels and reduced unsprung masses - the only common rear axle brake disc is located on the rear drive cardan, which allows absolutely even deceleration of both wheels.
Front wheel drive is wired differently on these ATVs.
POLARIS XP 1000 in the 4WD mode connects a transfer case on the front axle, distributing equally the torque to both front wheels. Unfortunately, this scheme of operation has a minus - both wheels always rotate at the same angular speed and this leads to poor controllability when maneuvering and a tendency to roll over outward in a turn. Indeed, in such a drive scheme, the wheels always try to go straight!
OUTLANDER X-MR 1000 offers limited slip differential Visco Lok QE .
It allows you to transfer the necessary torque to each front wheel, which in no way impairs handling in corners.
Button 4WD can connect the front axle, but to what extent the front wheels OUTLANDER will take torque through the differential will depend on the needs of each wheel and its grip on the surface.
The power steering system is also implemented differently for both representatives: POLARIS has a built-in permanent power steering, while OUTLANDER has a three-mode dynamic DPS power steering. It has three MIN/ MED/ MAX modes that fully meet all the needs in various conditions: driving on a dirt road in a sporty style, off-road, mud and stones, or driving on tracks. Switching the amplifier modes is carried out at any speed with a button on the steering wheel.
The classic POLARIS ignition key is nothing like the modern OUTLANDER security pin. Cheka D.E.S.S. BRP is both an emergency engine shutdown in case of a fall and an anti-theft immobilizer.
The second green check included in the kit has a quad speed limit of up to 70 km/h and is designed for beginners and work tasks.
On the dashboard of the POLARIS XP 1000 we see a speedometer with a small LCD window.
No hand protection.
The Canadian CAN-AM OUTLANDER has a large analog speedometer and tachometer and a large easy-to-read multifunction center LCD in the center.
Strong sports hand guard with aluminum fastenings protects the hands from wind and damage.
The gear lever protrudes neatly like a car under the right hand and moves along the slot.
OUTLANDER Heavy Duty Gas Springs with Remote Reservoir 9The 0083 FOX† Performance Series 1.5 PODIUM† QS3 are adjustable and premium FOX series and clearly not like conventional POLARIS oil dampers.
FOX shock absorbers not only provide comfort and driving pleasure, perfectly working out all the bumps and maintaining contact with the surface, but also not afraid of jumps and breakdowns.
POLARIS shock absorbers work out their “price”, but no more. The simplest thin-tube dampers with oil, without adjustments, they are clearly not ready for aggressive driving and will not be able to perfectly work out the bumps in the track.
Pay attention to the design of the shift lever on POLARIS - a long “tractor” lever that goes to the steering wheel along the knee.
The WARN 3000 ProVANTAGE front winch with a 1361 kg force installed on the OUTLANDER BRP CAN-AM also demonstrates the passion of Canadian engineers to complete their equipment with “premium segment” components from the world's best brands. None of the ATV manufacturers equips their ATVs with winches of this level.
The manufacturer of the winch mounted on the front of the POLARIS ATV is unknown.
POLARIS fitted with regular black painted 14″ wheels and High Lifter Outlaw II 29.5″ tires.
The OUTLANDER 1000X-MR has curly 14″ milled alloy wheels paired with powerful 30x9x14″ ITP tires.
ITP CRYPTED 30″ The is an excellent mud tire featuring an aggressive tread pattern with large lugs and a durable construction. They are named after the mythical swamp monster Cryptid and designed with every possible innovation to help mud lovers conquer the deepest and most inaccessible places.
Grouser height 1.5" at center increases to 2" at tire edges. Also, the central part of the tread is designed for comfortable movement on hard surfaces. ITP engineers took years of experience and equipped the Cryptid tread with grooves in the center and sides to keep the tire free from mud clogging. The durable rubber compound makes the tire resistant to punctures, cuts and other damage. Made in USA.
The POLARIS front bumper is made in the form of a steel platform with a transverse pipe and covers only the central part of the ATV from damage.
OUTLANDER has two full-fledged powerful bumpers front and rear, completely protecting both plastic and optics.
At the same time, the removal of the radiator on the OUTLANDER hood does not interfere with the installation of additional headlights.
Two POLARIS headlights deliver a total of 120 watts of light.
Four OUTLANDER headlights almost double those figures - 230 watts!
POLARIS is ready to take up to 34 kg of luggage on the rear cargo area. This is due to the simplest shock absorbers and the fact that the rear axle bears part of the rider's weight, since the seat actually rests on the luggage area.
CAN-AM OUTLANDER's rear platform is equipped with LINQ connectors for mounting accessories and saddlebags and supports 90 kg.
When it comes to accessories and equipment, BRP has no equal. An impressive range of original CAN-AM accessories that perfectly complement the look of the ATV is available only from the Canadian manufacturer.
The same with the equipment – technological and modern equipment and helmets, made in colors in accordance with the proposed ATV models.
