With so many options, how do you choose the right tires for your bike? We’ve got you covered with this helpful article. We'll go over the most common questions customers ask us.
When To Replace Bike Tires Bike Tire Sizes 27.5 Inch vs 650B Tires Bike Tire Widths Shop Bike Tires Bike Tire Size FAQs
Here's some quick tips on when you start looking for replacement tires. Knowing you have a busted tire is one thing. Preventing flats before they happen in another. If you can identify these warning signs then you can replace a worn out tire before it ruins your next ride.
Here are some signs that will tell you a tire is ready to be replaced:
Finally, time is a killer of tires. Keep track of how old your tires are. Rubber will only keep for two to four years before becoming hard and brittle. A tire may not have any visible signs of wear and still be bad if the rubber is too hard. If your tires are more than five years old, get new ones!
Here are the main factors you need to consider when shopping for new bike tires. First it’s about knowing what will fit, then you can refine your search to pick out the models that will give you the performance you’re after.
Before you start shopping, you need to know what tire size will fit your wheel and frame. Get the wrong size tire for your wheels and you won’t be going anywhere.
The size is printed on the sidewall of the tire in two ways: Traditional and ISO (International Standard for Organization). The traditional method is usually in bold and easy to read.
Consider this Traditional measurement example: 29X2.50. The first number (29) is an approximate measurement (in inches) of the outside diameter of the tire when inflated. The second number (2.50) is an approximate measurement (in inches) of the tire width when inflated.
The Traditional method can lead to confusion at times with less common tire sizes. Sometimes the size is listed as a decimal and other times as a fraction. These always represent different sizes...even if the printed numbers equal each other! Confusing, huh? That's why it's important to be familiar with the ISO measurement also printed on the tire (although often less noticeable).
Using the above example, the ISO measurement would be printed as 63 - 622. The first number (63) is the inflated width (in millimeters). The second number represents the diameter of the bead seat of the rim (in mm). This is an exact measurement and is important in determining if a tire will properly fit a rim.
Road bikes throw in one more twist.
The Traditional size printed in bold on the sidewall is usually referring to a French method. For example, a common size you may see is 700X25C. Here, the first number is an approximate measurement (in mm) of the outside diameter of the inflated tire. The second number is the inflated tire width (in mm). The 'C' refers to the rim width. In Utah, we usually only see 'C' labeled rims with a 622mm bead seat diameter. However, rim widths range A through D with each letter representing a different width and bead seat diameter.
Below are some common tire sizes (with the ISO bead seat diameter listed in parentheses):
This is another example of the French sizing method. 27.5 inch and 650B tires technically refer to the same size as both fit on the same diameter wheel (584mm).
The term 27.5 inch is mostly used in the mountain biking world filling the gap between 29 inch and 26 inch. Tires designated as 27.5 inch are usually (but not always) mountain bike-focused with more tread for off-road riding.
The term 650B is more commonly used with gravel and touring bikes. They typically have less tread than mountain bike tires. They're fast rolling on a variety of surfaces, but they offer more traction and comfort than standard 700C tires. The outside tire diameter of 700C and 650B is very close. This allows many gravel bikes to swap between the two wheel sizes. 700C is fast and efficient with a bigger rim and skinnier tire while 650B is smoother and more comfortable with a smaller rim and fatter tire.
Once you know the size tire you need for your wheels, the next step is to choose the right tire width. Obviously a road rider will be looking for a skinnier tire than a mountain biker, but even small differences in width can make a big difference when it comes to how your bike performs.
Here are the most common bike tire widths:
4 - 2.6” : Trail tires have amazing grip on loose and technical terrain but still roll fastJust knowing the wheel diameter (29/27.
5/etc) isn’t always enough. If you’re thinking of buying a new tire that’s narrower or wider than the one you’re replacing, you’ll also want to make sure the tire you’re shopping for is the right width for the rim.
If you know what rims you have, you can look up its internal width and check the tire manufacturer’s rim width compatibility. This can be a little confusing, and lots of riders don’t know exactly what rims they have. We’re happy to make sure you get the right tire for your wheels, so stop by or give us a call if you want some help!
Another factor to consider when considering a tire that’s wider or narrower than the one you’re replacing is frame clearance. Because bikes are designed with specific purposes in mind, their frames and forks have limits on what tires will fit and what won’t.
You can usually look up the max tire clearance of your frame on the bike manufacturer’s site, but again, if you’d like the help of professionals you can stop by or give us a call!
Tubeless bike tires can be used with tubeless compatible rims without inner tubes.
Without tubes, you can run lower tire pressures without getting pinch flats (caused by the tube being squished). Lower pressure also offers more comfort and traction off road, so many mountain bikers and gravel riders choose to go tubeless. Tubeless conversion requires tubeless compatible tires and rims, tubeless rim tape, and almost always an air compressor. Because tubeless can be a pain to set up, most commuters and casual riders won’t bother.
Every tire has a recommended PSI range on the sidewall, and it’s best to stay within those limits so you don’t get flats or blowouts. You can adjust the air pressure within that range to suit your preference.
If your tube’s valve looks like what’s on your car, you need a Schrader valve. If it's a long and skinny valve with a twistable top, you need a Presta valve.
Threads Per Inch.
A higher TPI (120) is lighter and more performance oriented for riders who want speed benefits. A 60tpi tire is more durable but slightly heavier.
Thinner tires with less tread are faster on smooth surfaces, and wider tires with more tread are better from loose, challenging roads and trails.
Yes, some tires come with reinforced material in the rubber casing that can help prevent punctures. Check the tire’s description to know for sure.
Sunlite Utili-T Thorn Resistant Schrader Valve Tube 29-inch
$18.99 - $22.99
Sunlite Utili-T Standard Presta Valve Tube 26-inch
$8.79 - $19.99
Bontrager Tube (700c, Presta Valve)
$7.99 - $10.49
Schwalbe Rocket Ron 27.5-inch
$87.00 - $98.00
Maxxis Minion DHF 27.5-inch
$72.00 - $112.00
Muc-Off Tubeless Valve
$29.99
Maxxis Minion DHF 29-inch
$72.
00 - $107.00
Teravail Tube (29 inch, Presta Valve)
$9.99 - $14.99
Rhinodillos Tire Liner
$18.99 - $32.35
Bontrager Race XXX Lite Presta Valve Bicycle Tube
$15.99
Maxxis Rambler 700c
$60.00 - $70.00
Maxxis Minion DHR2
$42.00 - $107.00
View More...
Chocolate, Vanilla, or strawberry? Just like there’s no wrong answer to what kind of ice cream you like, there’s no wrong answer to what kind of tires you should snap onto your bike, just make sure that you’ve got the right rubber for the mood. Choosing the right bike tires is all about matching the tire to the type of bike and the type of riding. So, hop in and we’ll break down the different types of bike tires, from knobby downhill mountain bike tires to slick and smooth road bike tires, and how to pick the best tires for your bike and riding style.
There are tons of different bike tires built for all sorts of different kinds of bikes, everything from skinny road racing slicks to big monster truck fat bike tires.
In general, bike tires can be broken into a few different categories - organized by the type of riding.
Kings of asphalt & spandex, road bike tires are going to be slick and fast like a used car salesman. The relative consistency of road conditions and bias for efficiency means these tires can be skinnier and smoother so that they roll faster. Road bike tires usually measure in the 18c (or mm) to 32c range and are run at high pressures between 80 and 120 psi for maximum performance. There’s no real need for texture either but your off-season tires might have a little bit of texture to keep you rubber side down thru a puddle or slick patch.
The definition of commuter is pretty flexible so the tires are going to be as well. Some folks commuting long distances will basically ride road tires whereas someone who blasts thru campus might want some grip across a cranky neighbor’s lawn. Most “commuter-specific” tires remain relatively slick for efficiency, but sport wider widths for additional volume and comfort for rough/cracked streets as well as puncture protection features to keep you on schedule.
A relatively new category for the masochistic cyclocross racers as well as the adventure/bikepacker, many of these tires are slimmed-down versions of XC mountain bike treads. Think of gravel and cyclocross tires as a cross between road and mountain bike tires. These may also be a good option for commuters who want a little bit more grip. Gravel bike tires often feature lower-profile tread patterns in the center of the tire, for lower rolling resistance, and more aggressive knobs on the outside of the tire for better handling and traction through turns.
Probably the most varied type of tire since the types of conditions are also varied. Hardpack dirt, loam, mud, clay and rock all require different knob patterns to keep you on your bike and to keep your Instagram page filled up for your fans. In general, mountain bike tires are much wider than other types of bike tires, with the high volume giving you the maximum grip and a cushier ride.
Think of the air in your tires like an extra shock absorber. Plus, the tread pattern on mountain bike tires will be far more aggressive, to help you from sliding out in even the most sketchy of situations.
Generally, here’s what you can expect from modern bike tires in each category:
| Road Bike Tires | Urban/Commuter Tires | Gravel Bike Tires | Mountain Bike Tires | |
| Width | 18c - 38c | Various | 32c - 40c | 2.0" - 3"+ |
| Wheel Size | 700c | Various | 700c, 27.5" | 26", 27.5", 29" |
| Tread | Slick | Semi-slick | Small knobs | Very knobby |
After you choose the type of bike tire that you’re looking for, you need to make sure that it will fit on your bike.
Picking the right size tire comes with two main areas of measurement. Width and Diameter. Finding that goldilocks perfect tire can take some experimentation and testing as well as some soul searching to find out exactly what it is you’re trying to get out of your riding experience.
The diameter is pretty simple - it’s the size of your wheels. If you’re a mountain biker, you’re looking for 26”, 27.5” or 29”. Nearly all modern road bikes are 700c, which is actually the same as 29”. If you’ve rocking a vintage European steelie to go along with your vest and handlebar mustache and hipster attitude, it’s possible that it’s another esoteric old size. One surefire way to get the right size bike tire is to check out the spec on the side of the rim and/or the old tire to understand what diameter you’re working with. Diameter is not a preference, either it fits the wheel or it doesn’t.
Choosing the right width bike tire can be a little more tricky. Unfortunately, inconsistencies between the tire manufacturers can make this more difficult because apparently 2” doesn’t mean the same thing in Kenda as it does in Maxxis or Continental.
A quick work around is to look at the stock brand/spec of tires for the bike or fork you’re looking to get the tire for and use it as a baseline. Keep in mind that you need space to allow for wheel and frame flex, fenders, mud clearance and possible woodland creature clearance. If you’re running a road bike with caliper brakes, you’ll make sure you’re clearing your stoppers as well.
Tire width also affects performance as it changes the size of the contact patch with the ground as well as the overall volume of the tire. The larger the tire is, the lower pressure you operate at and can keep the rim from banging on the ground, meaning more traction. This affects cornering, rolling resistance and overall traction as well as riding comfort. The tradeoff is generally in efficiency - fatter tires are going to be heavier and roll slower at a given pressure than thinner tires.
See More
Bike tubes are pretty flexible and have a lot of room for error, but why not get it right to begin with? Similar to tire size, you’ll pick the diameter and width that’s appropriate for the tire you’re using.
Don’t sweat this too much, inner tubes stretch so much it’s quite possible to inflate a 29” tire with a 26” tube in a pinch.
The valve can be a little tricky. Look at your rim and see if it’s drilled for a schrader or presta valve. You can stuff a presta valve into a schrader drilled hole, but not the other way around. It’ll be a bit loose fitting, but your wheel should come with an adapter that takes up the slack. If you’re using a presta valve, the length of the valve you’re using is somewhat important too. Most valve stems will be in the 40-50mm range and will clear the vast majority of rims. If you’re using super-techy-aero-deep-v rims, look up the rim depth on the manufacturer’s site and make sure the valve stem is an extra 5mm or so to clear it.
Replace your tires when they start acting like a dead-eyed DMV rep; Not doing their job or at least not thrilled about it. This can be for any number of reasons including letting your dreams fade away.
It's time to replace your bike tires when you see the following signs:
If you’re not wanting to have a black signal-fire running in your backyard, many bike shops and retailers have recycling programs where they can be disposed of in an environmentally friendly fashion. Once you’ve done your good deed for the year, you can reward yourself with an ice cream cone.
The bead of the rim is the part of the tire that mates up to the rim. There are two main styles of bike tire beads, wire and folding. Wire beads as are less expensive to manufacture. They tend to be much heavier and less flexible than folding beads as a result of the lower TPI. This makes them a bit harder to mount onto rims. Foldable beads are most often found on higher-end tires that are more flexible, have a higher TPI, and offer more traction.
See More
TPI Stands for Threads Per Inch. Technically, Threads Per Square Inch but TPSI doesn’t quite roll off the tip of the tongue quite like TPI, does it? If you’re familiar with the thread count in your sheets, it’s similar and indicative of quality.
As you’re well aware by now, bike tires aren’t made of just rubber, but a number of materials go into a good tire. One of those things are nylon or aramid fibers or the “threads” that we’re counting here.
Lower TPI casings use thicker threads that are less flexible but cheaper to manufacture. High TPI casings are flexible like a full-time hatha yoga instructor decked out in lululemon. This allows the casing of the tire to conform and flex to the road or trail you’re riding. Also, similar to a kevlar vest, it provides puncture resistance keeping all the air and fluids where they need to be to function.
The higher the TPI, the lighter the weight of the tire, and the more “supple” it will feel. Rule of thumb here is to simply buy as high a TPI as you can afford. This tends to be more of a factor for road tires as there’s less going on otherwise (in terms of tread pattern, etc…).
Some tires are marked as “tubeless specific” or “tubeless ready”. This just means that the tire is made specifically or can work with tubeless setups. Physically, you can tell as the bead of the tire usually has a little extra sealing material.
The idea here is that it’s hard to puncture an inner tube when you don’t have one.
Tubeless setups remove one of the weakest links in the wheel/tire system. You can pretty much say goodbye to pinch flats and pin-prick slow leaks as you replace the innertube with a tubeless-ready tire, rim sealing tape, and valve.
If you have a rim that’s designed to work with a tubeless setup, you can learn more with our guide on how to convert to tubeless bike tires. These tires will also work fine with tubes, but kinda like little jimmy sitting on the bench in little league, you’re not really seeing the tire to its full potential.
Just get Maxxis Minion DHF in as wide and thickly cased as you can in the front, Highroller 2’s in 2.3 in the back. Just kidding, but not really. You’ll find that experienced mountain bikers are very particular about the tires that they put on their bikes. The reason for this is that there’s so much personal preference and riding-style matching that goes on into tire choice. Here’s a few things to consider:
If you’re riding in rocky, shale or chaussey conditions, extra sidewall protection can go a long way in protecting your tire and rims.
Most brands have some kind of double-layer casing, or lighter-weight sidewall protection. Maxxis calls theirs “Maxx Shield” or “Double Down” and Continental calls theirs “Protection” or “Vectran.” Generally, the only penalty is weight so weigh this against how you typically ride. If you’re a park rat, go as heavy as you can. XC nerd? Keep it light and pick clean lines on your way down.
Just like a good burger requires 100% All American Beef, a good tire requires good quality rubber from the get-go. Most of this comes from the flexibility and durability of the rubber. Generally speaking, lower-quality rubber will be harder and won’t conform to the road or trail and sacrifice grip for better-wearing properties, turning that wet corner into shoulder surgery. Softer compounds and mixes of these softer compounds go into some higher quality tires. Some will use soft, grippy rubber on the side knobs where they see less action, but in higher-consequence situations and keep the firm, longer wearing stuff in the middle.
Other brands have some black-magic compounds formulated in an area-51 hangar that can somehow maintain both of these qualities but can hit the wallet a bit harder. This is a balance between rolling resistance, grip, and damage to the paycheck.
See More
While it may seem complicated, it's actually fairly intuitive how tread patterns affect how a tire rides. This is mostly about when and where you trade rolling resistance for traction.
Side lugs provide support and traction when your turns are laid over aggressively. Big blocks of consistently spaced knobs here will provide a lot of cornering grip but won’t affect straight-line efficiency too much. Siping, or small slits, on the side knobs can increase traction but reduce longevity. Tires with fewer side lugs are effectively trading cornering ability for decreased weight and rolling resistance.
Center block patterns are pretty varied, but generally, there are variations in the size and spacing of those center blocks.
Ramped knobs also trade some grip for increased rolling traction. These knobs affect how the bike rides when it’s going in a straight line or while braking. They’ll also wear the fastest since it’s where the tire spends the most time connected to the ground.
Additionally, the size of the center blocks allow the tire to bite through softer terrain like loamy or muddy trails. Smaller blocks are more efficient on hardpack terrain where you may only have a thin layer of sand or dust over hardpack to bite through.
As for in between shoulder knobs - there’s a good deal of variation here as well, but these knobs affect how the bike rides when cornering less aggressively where you’re steering or trimming into your turns. While having less blocks here can decrease rolling resistance, they can also create a “dead zone” where traction is questionable when transitioning to a hard lean.
This is a design feature that some brands are offering now that there are some mega-wide rims floating around these days.
It’s the same tread patterning and shapes but spaced out further to provide a rounder profile when running super wide rims. If you’re running a rim with an internal width wider than 30mm, it’s worth checking out wide-tread bike tires.
See More
The Best Mountain Bikes
The Best Women's Mountain Bikes
The Best Mountain Bikes for Beginners
The Best Mountain Bikes Under $3,000
The Best Trail Bikes
The Best Enduro Bikes
The Best Gravel Bikes
The Best Mountain Bike Helmets
The Best Full Face MTB Helmets
The Best Mountain Bike Knee Pads
The Best Mountain Bike Elbow Pads
The Best Mountain Bike Shorts
The Best Women's Bike Shorts
The Best Mountain Bike Pants
The Best Mountain Bike Jerseys
The Best Mountain Bike Accessories
The Best Value Mountain Bike Helmets
The Best Mountain Bike Jackets
The Best Mountain Bike Gloves
The Best MTB Fanny Packs
The Best Mountain Bike Backpacks
The Best Clipless Mountain Bike Shoes
The Best Flat Pedal MTB Bike Shoes
The Best Mountain Bike Tires
The Best Mountain Bike Flat Pedals
The Best Bike Racks
The Best Bike Glasses
The Best Bike Goggles
The Best Women's Mountain Bike Jerseys
The Best Tailgate Bike Pads
The Best Bike Trainers
The Best Hitch Bike Racks
2022 Santa Cruz Megatower Review
Santa Cruz Bronson
One of the most important elements of a bicycle, the importance of which many riders underestimate when choosing, are tires.
After all, it is they who ensure the safety of movement, good grip and comfort when riding on various surfaces, including snow or ice (if you buy winter tires for a bicycle). The better and better the bike tires are, the safer your ride will be. A good tire will provide you with excellent traction and will last you for years to come. But how to choose high-quality and at the same time inexpensive tires, which tires are suitable specifically for your bike and is it worth chasing well-known manufacturers? And since this topic is of interest to many lovers of two-wheeled vehicles, we decided to find out what is better to “shod” your bike. In this article, we will answer these questions and, in addition, we will tell you what the marking on a bicycle tire means, what they are, types of bicycle tires, their sizes and what materials they are made of. 9Ol000 topic
Manufacturers offer a huge selection of products under various labels, which is very difficult for an ignorant person to understand.
If you need to buy a tire for a bicycle, then two basic requirements must be met - the tire must fit the size of the wheel rim and match the characteristics for the chosen method of movement. The latter is no less important than the tire size for the bike. After all, the wrong type of bike tire can lead to a completely different behavior of the bike when riding. This is important both at the initial stage to ensure safety, quick learning, and at the stage of improving your skills.
Each type of tire can be made in different versions, using special technologies and materials. A good tire can be either with or without a tube. They are also fixed in several ways. Sports, road tires are often glued to the rim for durability, as they are not wide and can easily pop out of the metal groove of the wheel or spin in it under heavy loads. Most tires are held by pressure and an increase in their geometric dimensions.
Front and rear tires may differ. If tight contact with the ground is required for steering, then maximum torque efficiency must be ensured at the rear.
For this reason, the front wheel can have a smooth middle with aggressive studs on the sides, the rear wheel can have the optimal size of the studs to hold the bike, and with the help of a tread with directional notches, ensure its fast acceleration and movement.
Products are divided into the following types:
Translated from English, the term means "smooth". The tire either has no tread at all, or it has a small height. The tires provide maximum contact on smooth, even road surfaces and are light in weight. Designed for movement on prepared tracks and are mainly installed on road bikes. Allow to develop the maximum speed on a plain smooth surface. You can’t use them for off-road walking, for performing complex freestyle elements, tricks. Such tires, due to the absence of a tread, have minimal rolling friction resistance, which greatly facilitates pedaling. Buying slick bike tires is only worth it if your route is 100% clean pavement. Any off-road trip is fraught not only with poor handling, but also with increased chances of breaking a wheel due to a smaller contact patch, and, accordingly, increased pressure on the tire..jpg)
The middle part of the tire has a slightly pronounced tread with water-repellent grooves, and the sides are equipped with lugs that help with turns, provide reliable contact with uneven, bumpy surfaces. The products belong to the category of universal tires, suitable for both driving on asphalt roads and when driving on natural ground. When selling a bicycle, it is often equipped with just such tires. So if your route is both tarmac and light off-road, semi-slick bike tires are the best choice for you.
The species is divided into several categories according to the shape and size of the tread. Tire with small spikes is suitable for trips on equipped dirt roads. Off-road driving involves the installation of products with a powerful, aggressive tread. A special version of tires is offered for movement on sand, snow. But it is worth noting that bicycle tires with a large tread are completely unsuitable for city driving.
They are heavier than semi-slick ones, and due to the high tread they will create additional resistance when driving.
Just like for cars, there are also winter tires for bicycles. They are very soft with an aggressive tread, and metal spikes are often installed in them for driving on ice. Because of their features, they show themselves perfectly in winter, but in summer they will become unusable very quickly. Therefore, for the winter and summer seasons, you will definitely have to buy two different sets of tires.
According to the installation method tires can be clincher, tubular and tubeless.
Clincher is any tire with a bead that secures it to the rim. This type of bicycle tires can be installed both on classic, with smooth sidewalls, and on rims with special hooks-locks, while the lock on the rim and the counterpart on the tire must match. There are also single-tube clincher bike tires that have a special protrusion for fixing on the rim.
Expensive road bikes fitted with tubular tires which are glued to the rim. Very light and durable. The latter is ensured by the high filling density of cord threads (up to 320 TPI), which also significantly reduces the risk of puncture.
tubeless tires for bicycles are also popular, but before choosing and installing them on a specific bike model, you should consult with a specialist. This is due to the fact that a special rim with a high side is needed for installation. It is not recommended to purchase them for standard wheels. The sides of this type of tire are glued for additional sealing. Although they are quite practical in operation, they have a slightly lower weight compared to conventional ones, plus they can be repaired without removing them from the rim. Also, high-quality tubeless bicycle tires are quite resistant to punctures.
Tubeless tires filled with flexible plastic foam are mainly used in the production of tires for recreational and children's bicycles.
You can find different colored tires for bicycles on the market, but this variety does not affect the quality and technical characteristics. A design solution supported by technological capabilities, nothing more. But if you have a desire to emphasize your individuality, stand out from the rest of the cyclists, or you do not like the standard black color of your tires, then choosing colored bicycle tires is your option.
The evolution of production has taken place in the last 20-30 years. Not so long ago, there was no such choice of products of this class in stores. Today it has become technologically possible to produce tires for special purposes, optimally meeting the tasks. Despite some features, the basic elements of tires are as follows:
Locations of the tire in contact with the rim. A large load in these places involves reinforcement with additional materials so as not to increase the mass of the product by thickening the body; Natural or artificial rubber, as well as composite materials, can be used as an elastic base in the manufacture of tires.
Natural raw materials are more durable, but production difficulties and natural volume limitations make the cost of production significantly higher. Synthetic materials are cheaper. Progress in bicycle tire production technologies allows some artificial materials to come close to the quality indicators of natural rubber, and even win in some positions.
The elasticity of the rubber or compound is of great importance. For wide touring and winter tires, which are mainly used on mountain bikes, manufacturers use soft compounds. Elastic tires ensure good contact between the wheel and the road surface. Tires for high-speed road bikes are made from denser, stiffer materials. They have a smaller width, more pressure and a correspondingly smaller contact area, which gives less resistance when driving. Therefore, sports tires are made light, durable, tough. They are ideal for racing, but uncomfortable and unsafe for walking routes on unprepared trails.
As for the “skeleton” of a bicycle tire, it can be made of synthetic, Kevlar or steel threads (which has recently become rare).
Steel cord tires are the cheapest and heaviest of all. Mainly used on old type bicycle tires. The disadvantages also include the likelihood of a puncture of the chamber in case of cord wear (thin metal threads begin to climb out of the tire carcass and pierce the chamber). Synthetic cord is the golden mean between steel and Kevlar. Lightweight, and with an adequate price tag, but less durable than Kevlar. Tires with Kevlar threads, unlike synthetic ones, have much greater strength, so the best brands of tires are made using them. The only drawback of the material is its cost. These tires pay off with durability, light weight, strength, ease of storage and transportation. Kevlar is used both as a cord in the body of the product and as a safety cable. It is quite difficult to decide which tire is better, with a Kevlar cord or a synthetic one. If the budget allows or you plan to take part in cycling, then most likely you should take Kevlar, and for ordinary rides, a synthetic thread will do.
When choosing a tire, pay special attention to the markings. A single international standard approved by the European technical organization for tires and rims ETRO. It is designated by the abbreviation ISO and has two numbers, the first of which indicates the tire width, and the second is the rim diameter. Most often, the manufacturer puts the designation on the side of the tire. However, often you will not see standard markings there. The size is indicated in inches and their fractions, and does not always correspond to the actual dimensions of the product. In this case, it is necessary to show the product to the seller when buying, or in extreme cases, rewrite the alphanumeric value.
4 types of rims are considered standard: 406 mm, 507 mm, 559 mm and 622 mm, although there are actually many more.
However, there are 6 types of tires. The discrepancies are caused by the method of measurement. Tires are measured by outside diameter.
They come in 20 (used mainly for children's or BMX bikes), 24, 26, 27.5, 28 and 29 inches. In other words, this is an analogue of the profile indicator when designating automobile tires. The intended purpose involves different dimensions of products with the same seat. So road bikes are characterized by low-profile tires. Cross-country driving will be safer and more efficient with large, low-pressure tires. Traditional designations 27.5, 28, 29inches are for 622mm ISO rim.
The second defining value is the tire width. Some sports models for traditional disciplines have a value of less than 2 cm. Mountain bikes, tourist bikes can be equipped with tires more than 5 cm wide. Well, fat bikes have the widest tires. Often, tire width is also given in inches as a diameter (for example, 26×2.1, where the first number is the diameter and the second is the width). When buying, you should pay attention to the trade article on the sidewall. On it, you can get more complete information on the manufacturer's website or in the documents for the goods from the seller.
For example, the softness of rubber, composition and some other characteristics are not always indicated on the product itself. They can be important for solving specific problems, or for buying tires that are optimal for starting classes and teaching those who want to master the skill of cycling. They need a softer and more elastic tire. Which brand will be specifically chosen is not so important.
Well, the third parameter is the maximum pressure for which the tire is designed.
It should be noted that almost all models of bicycle tires have an indication of the direction of rotation of the wheel. They must be placed in the direction of the arrow, which is usually applied to the side surface of the case.
With a huge selection of products on the market, there are undoubted leaders among manufacturers whose products are in the lead in terms of sales. These include the following brands:
German company known for products for bicycles, motorcycles and wheelchairs. The activity has been carried out since 1922. Sales leader. It is famous for producing reliable, durable tires. Own scientific and technical base in Cologne (Germany) allows us to implement unique developments. Direct production has been moved to Indonesia and Vietnam. Many of the leading bike manufacturers stock these tires in their base models; 
Quality rubber manufacturer in Taiwan. The range is not large, but the presented models are reliable, durable. Inexpensive, but very good rubber; In addition to the listed companies, you can see dozens of other brands, with varying degrees of popularity and product quality.
Some of them are well worth buying. You don't have to pay for a big name.
Before buying tires, you need to decide on your goals. This is influenced by the level of training, and the place to ride, and even the model of the bike. Taking expensive, professional tires is not always wise. Their operation implies good training of the athlete and high-quality special equipment. For a beginner on a regular bike, semi-slicks with a width of 35-40 mm are perfect. The versatility of the product will allow you to quickly master the basic techniques of controlling a bicycle. Good grip on any surface will make it possible to ride on the roads, in parks, on special sites.
Professional athletes do not need advice. Years of experience and knowledge allow them to determine exactly what they need. But amateurs should not be guided by their choice. What is good for a specialist may be unacceptable for an amateur. For example, single-tube tires used for road racing are difficult to install and require skill and experience to realize their potential.
This is achieved through many years of practice.
If a tourist trip is planned on difficult, rocky ground, or in a forest area where you can run into unexpected obstacles, tree roots, then preference should be given to wide studded tires with a high profile. Buying a super-dense, professional-quality cross-country tire is not a good idea for a beginner. It is practically not prone to punctures, has excellent tenacity, but is absolutely uncomfortable for walking.
When you want to continue training in the winter, you need to purchase tires with a specialized tread. They are produced in two types: with and without metal spikes. In the second case, grip is provided by the shape of the tread and the special properties of rubber. Winter tires are more expensive than conventional tires. Depending on the region, the period of operation can be from 2-3 months to six months. Then I follow again to change tires for summer. Each user decides whether it makes sense to do this. Sometimes it’s not the price that scares away athletes, but not the comfort and insecurity of training during the frosty period.
The price category is quite large, but the cost is not the main indicator of the quality required at this stage. It makes no sense to overpay for a brand or buy products with special qualities that cannot be used. Today, specialized salons have a manager or consultant on staff who can be consulted before purchasing a product. You can take the advice of experienced users from among friends. The best option would be testing. If it is possible to try different types of tires, this will make it possible to determine the desired quality, relying on the individual capabilities and preferences of the potential buyer.
One more nuance should be taken into account by residents of cities where it is supposed to move. The excellent technical characteristics of natural rubber can be reduced to zero with prolonged exposure to petrochemicals, road chemicals. Artificial rubber and composite are resistant to these aggressive environments, and tires made from these materials can last a very long time without loss of quality.
If you buy a tire for a bicycle offline, in a bike shop, then be sure to check the quality of the rubber, especially if it is from an unknown manufacturer. To do this, you can press hard and run your finger along the sidewall of the bike tire. If the tire is of high quality, then the finger will remain clean, without black marks. You can also check the elasticity of a bicycle tire. To do this, pull on the remaining hair after casting. It should stretch a little. Well, in general, inspect the tire visually for casting defects.
Anti-puncture tape for bicycle tires can often be found for sale on Aliexpress or in online stores. This is a strip of elastic, hard rubber that is inserted between the tire and the bicycle tube. After reading the reviews on this product, we can conclude that its purchase is not advisable. Not only does the anti-puncture layer increase the weight of the bike, but it can also damage the camera if it jams the latter. The use of good, high-quality tires with a non-worn tread is already pretty good protection against punctures, and on long trips we still recommend that you carry a spare tube and patches with you. Therefore, the purchase of an anti-puncture layer, in principle, is not needed. Well, it's up to you to decide.
Below we have added a couple of videos on how to choose bicycle tires and decide on their size.
What can be summed up. First, if you decide to buy a tire for your bike, then you should consider the size of your rim, the terrain where you will be riding and the style of riding. For the city, it is better to choose slicks (if you have a road bike) or semi-slick tires (if you occasionally go to the dirt road), but for off-road, mud tires for MTB will show themselves best. You should also decide on the width of the tire, the wider it is, the better the grip and control, but the harder it is to pedal. For ordinary bike rides, it makes no sense to take expensive tires made of natural rubber and Kevlar cord (but you should not take a metal cord either). The best option would be an artificial compound with synthetic threads. Well, choose tires for a bicycle from well-known manufacturers who have proven themselves to be of high quality. Last but not least, if you're not sure which tire is right for your bike, feel free to ask a sales consultant. After all, it is better to buy what you need right away than to return the goods back to the store.
Bicycle tires are one of the important elements of a bicycle, and many consider them the most important element of a bicycle and for good reason. The quality of your rubber affects both ride comfort and driving safety, especially on wet road surfaces.
Do you ride your bike every day and need tires with good grip and puncture protection? Or are you a hardcore cross-country rider? Or do you rarely ride a bike and value comfort above all? For these purposes, you will need different types of bicycle tires. In addition, tires must match the size of the rim. This article will help you limit your range of tire choices.
Contents
First, let's get acquainted with the structure of a bicycle tire. On the transverse "anatomical" section, you can see the main elements of the tire: a carcass with a cord, a bead wire and a surface layer of rubber.
Outer sheath made mainly of rubber or compound. Rubber is obtained from rubber, which is extracted from the sap of rubber trees - such a material is too expensive, so synthetic rubber is mainly used. Sulfur must be added to turn rubber into rubber. This process is called vulcanization. The resulting material is stronger and more elastic. Fibers are added to rubber to increase strength, such as in the production of car tires. Oil and gasoline resistant rubber can only be made from synthetic rubber. The main properties of the tire depend on natural or synthetic rubber, the most important component of rubber. To improve the properties of rubber, in addition to rubber, dyes, vulcanizers, plasticizers, stabilizers, hardeners and other components are added to its composition. Fillers degrade the quality of the rubber, but they also reduce the price. The shape of the tire depends on the fabric base. It consists of several parallel layers of fibers stretched between the sides of the "rubber". Fibers are made from various synthetic materials.
Compounds are the basis of various polymers and monomers. They are cheaper to manufacture than rubber, but their properties are ahead of synthetic rubber (they have less rolling resistance, which means better rolling). To find out what material the tire is made of, you need to run a dry finger over the tire: the rubber will reach for the finger, and the compound will remain in place.
First, find out the size of your current tires. Just check the sidewall of the tire. The traditional sizing system is based on the outside diameter of the tire, which is measured in inches (26, 27, 29) or in millimeters (600 mm, 700 mm). On road tires, the size is indicated as a paired number, such as 700x23. The first number (700) indicates the size, approximately corresponding to the diameter of the tire in millimeters, and the second number (23) indicates the width of the tire in millimeters. Tire width can be written as a fraction (27×1 1/4) or as a decimal fraction (26×2.1). On mountain bike tires, the pairing number is 26×2.0, indicating the current bead diameter (26 inches) and width (2 inches). Tires with the same numbers are interchangeable.
You don't have to buy a tire exactly the same width as you currently have. To improve stability, grip, or other factors that affect ride quality, you may need different tire sizes. However, one should not deviate too far from the current dimensions, as performance or durability issues may arise.
Road touring and racing: Most road tires are 700 (sometimes called 700C). Exceptions include the rarely seen 650 size (used on front wheels for faster acceleration and/or on kids bikes to reduce bike height) and the 27″ size found on older bikes. Find the designation on the rim for the exact size. If you can't find the size, it's best to take the rim to a bike shop and work with your salesperson to determine the correct tire size, as it's difficult to accurately measure the circumference without special tools. Most riders ride the narrowest 700C tires, ranging from 18 to 23 millimeters. For long trips, tires with a width of 25 to 28 millimeters are more suitable, providing better stability and comfort.
Mountain bikes: Mountain bikes are traditionally fitted with 26″ tires. Cross-country bikes and all mountain bikes have tires from 1.8″ to 2.4″ wide. But downhill and freeride bikes are equipped with tires ranging from 2.5″ to 3.0″ wide, so they should reduce the chance of falls.
Niners: Niners have become popular in recent years. The niner tires are a wider, ribbed version of the 700 cyclocross tires and otherwise look like regular mountain tires. Niners are positioned as bicycles capable of riding through mud and sand due to the technical features of the contact patch. They also have better cornering and traction on climbs due to the fact that the "big wheels" have a larger contact patch.
Other bikes: Cyclocross tires are slightly ribbed, narrow, 700C size to match the geometry of cyclocross racing frames. BMX tires usually have a diameter of 20″.
If you ride on asphalt or other hard flat surfaces, slicks are the best choice. Due to their smooth surface, with minimal effort, maximum speed can be squeezed out of the bike. The grip they offer is sufficient in most cases.
If you ride on a variety of surfaces such as concrete, asphalt, smooth singletrack and/or occasional gravel, cyclocross tires (for road rims) or semi-slicks (for road or mountain rims) are your best bet.
Off-road riding requires mountain bike tires that offer traction in a wide variety of conditions. If you mainly ride on one type of surface, then choose a tire for this surface. For example:
If you don't know which tires are best for your area, ask your local bike shop pro or check the manufacturer's website.
Different types of tires (tourist, road, pleasure) differ mainly in the tread. The tread is a three-dimensional pattern on the outer surface of the tire. It depends on him the reliability of adhesion to the road surface. It plays an important role on any tire, but it is especially important on studded mountain tires where small differences in tread pattern affect the ride. A larger tread provides better grip, but also more rolling resistance. Therefore, you need to find a balance between speed and traction requirements.
Everyone needs a sharp tread no matter how they ride. When it wears down to a flat surface and/or becomes rounded or uneven, the bike is not handling well. Such tires should be replaced to provide better grip and safety. If the lining starts to show from under the rubber, then you have been waiting too long.
Slicks: Designed for city, touring and mountain bikes. Slicks look almost like road tires, but they are wider. They are almost smooth, with a barely perceptible tread pattern. Slicks are designed for smooth surfaces such as the Slickrock mountain range, tarmac and good singletrack. V-grooves improve cornering on wet roads.
Semi-slicks: This is an intermediate link between studded tires and slicks. They are designed for both cross-country driving and driving on flat roads. They have a smooth center section for minimal rolling resistance and fast acceleration, while aggressive tread on the sides helps with cornering. They are ideal for cyclists.
Inverted tread tires: Inverted tread tires have less rolling resistance than regular tread tires and more grip and rolling resistance than slicks. Use tires with an inverted tread if, in addition to smooth asphalt, you occasionally drive off-road or on roads with many pits and potholes.
Spiked: If you have an extreme riding style, choose tires with more aggressive tread and good studs. They are not suitable for driving on smooth asphalt roads, as they will “slow down”. Different styles of studded tread are designed for different road conditions:
When buying tires for a mountain bike, pay attention to the tread - it is different for the front and rear wheels. The front tire tread provides lateral stability when cornering. The rear tire tread is designed for optimum power transfer and rear wheel control. Install tires on the wheel, taking into account the direction of rotation. You can determine the direction of rotation by the arrow on the sidewall of the tire, which indicates the correct direction of rotation.
Road tires are not that complicated. Tires for the front or rear wheel are usually sold as a set. And because road tires are meant to be used on the road, there isn't as much variety of tread options as there is for racing tires.
Make sure you select the correct nipple - Presta or Schrader.
The Presta nipple already has a built-in cap, which must be unscrewed to inflate the tire and tightened after the procedure is completed. The Presta nipple is more common on expensive bikes, especially road bikes. Do not use a Presta tube in a rim with a Schrader hole, as the tube can be dislodged and torn.
Schrader nipple wider than Presta nipple. A valve similar to the one used in car chambers is used. They are common on inexpensive and mid-range bikes. A Schrader nipple cannot be inserted into a hole designed for a Presta nipple. If your wheel has a hole for Schrader, then with the help of a special adapter you can safely use a Presta nipple.
Most tires use only one type of rubber. Soft elastic rubber provides the best grip. The opposite option is a more durable hard rubber. The choice of tire type for most cyclists is determined by their financial ability (how often they can afford to change tires) and performance (how much handling they need on the road).
Cyclists will benefit from dual compound tires. They have a soft rubber outer part in contact with the ground, and a layer of hard rubber between the tread and the skin. The result is improved traction and cornering on virtually any surface, from dirt to rocky parks and hard sport trails. But not everyone needs them, but only those who need performance and speed.
The carcass of a tire is often subjected to pressure shocks, especially when driving on asphalt. The greater the number of lining stitches, the more elastic the tire is and the better it resists punctures.
The stitch count of a road clincher tire is 60 tpi (stitches per inch) to 320 tpi (high performance clincher or racing single tube). In other tires, the number of stitches does not exceed 20 tpi. The TPI is usually listed on the tire detail page.
These tires have a Kevlar bead instead of metal. Therefore, folding tires are lighter, easier to transport and store. They are available for both road and mountain bikes. Their main disadvantage is the high price.
They are popular with racers. What are the advantages of tubeless tires? Depending on body weight and terrain, such a tire can be inflated weaker - up to 20 psi. This will improve traction without causing snakebites, and the ride will be softer. What are the disadvantages? The tire cannot be installed in the usual way using the beads. You will still have to carry the camera with you, since repairing tubeless tires is much more difficult than regular ones. In the event of a puncture, some tire manufacturers recommend simply using tubeless tire sealant.
They require special rims. However, you can buy a conversion kit to convert regular rims to tubeless. The choice of tubeless tires for mountain bikes is greater than for road bikes. Tubeless tires start at $50 each.
When buying a tube, pay attention to the circumference and width of the tire. Installing the correct chamber width is very important to reduce breakouts and improve rollover. If you have wide tires, you can usually get slightly smaller tubes as they can stretch. But it is still better that the sizes of the chambers and tires correspond to each other. Choose a width range that matches your tire - for example, if you have 2″ tires, then a tube with a width of 1.75 to 2.125″ will do. And don't forget the correct type of nipple: Presta or Schrader.
Each tire has its own optimum pressure range, measured in psi (pounds per square inch). It is important to follow the manufacturer's tire pressure recommendations, which are usually printed on the side of the tire. The recommended pressure is usually indicated on the tire wall. In general:
Lower pressure improves traction almost as effectively as good tread and good zeda technique. When driving on loose soil, the pressure also needs to be reduced so as not to waste extra effort on creating an even “rut” on the road. But excessive reduction of pressure causes problems with "snake bites". You also don’t need to pump the tire - too much pressure will degrade stability (at best) or burst the tube (worst case), and you will also feel every pebble. If you are going to ride on a flat hard road, then the wheels need to be inflated harder - this way we improve the bike roll, but worsen the grip. The pressure in the tire directly affects its durability. Riding on underinflated tires destroys it - the tire wears out quickly, regardless of its price.
Good pumps are capable of displaying pressure, otherwise you will need a separate pressure gauge.
There are no absolutely puncture-proof tires, but it is possible to reduce the chance of a puncture. Puncture-proof tires are usually heavier than regular tires.
These tires ride much worse than regular tires, but in city driving they reduce the chance of a puncture by seven times. How is protection provided? The most commonly used protective layer of Kevlar fibers; less often just increase the thickness of the tread. Such tires are sold under various branded brands: Serfas Flat Protection System, Continental Safety System, Panaracer Protex Shield, etc. The best puncture-proof tires are Schwalbe Marathon Plus and their lighter version Schwalbe Durano Plus.
Protective tape is usually a thin, molded plastic band that is placed between the tire and tube to reduce the chance of being pierced by thorns, glass and other sharp objects. It adds about 170 grams to the weight of the tires.
They are simply a thicker (and heavier) version of a regular camera.
If you are tired of looking for camera punctures and gluing patches, then applying sealant can help you. A little sealant is introduced into the chamber, which creates a heavy-duty cork at the puncture site, which often outlasts both the chamber and the tire.
Let's look at tire options for each type of cyclist.
Will there be those who want to change a tire on the side of a busy highway? Probably not. If you regularly cycle to work, then all the more you need a puncture-resistant tire at an affordable price.
Look out for bulletproof wide tires for which potholes are not a big problem. Typical city tire widths range from 28 to 35mm for 700 tires and 1″ to 2″ for 26″ tires. Wider tires are a little more stable, but they are also slower.
Some urban tires have small studded treads that are not really needed except when the route is through mud or gravel. These tires wear out faster than slick or inverted projector tires. A smooth tread is faster and more stable in corners.
Puncture proof tires have a protective layer built under the tread that enhances protection against punctures from debris, thorns and broken glass.
For long, serious rides, the weight of the tires is as important as any other component. Narrow studded tires with a width of 1.8″ to 2.4″ are best suited. Racers tend to prefer tires up to 2″ wide, while other cross-country riders prefer tires from 2″ to 2. 4″ wide due to their greater versatility. In addition to weight and width, you need to consider the type of terrain where you ride. Soft singletrack (mud, soil with roots) and mountainous terrain like Slickrock require completely different tires.
Freeriding requires tires that grip well on steep, rocky trails that can handle hours of jumping in mountain bike parks. Requires a tread with an aggressive pattern and high studs. The soft, sticky rubber compound provides great traction in all terrains, helps with cornering, but it wears out quickly, which increases tire costs!
The best freeride and downhill tires are 2.5″ to 3″ wide.
Road racing and cycling touring require completely different tires. Racing requires light, thin, fast tires, and the second criterion is good cornering grip. If you are carrying cargo, you will need a wider tire than if you are not carrying cargo.
Tourists will also want relatively fast tires, but comfort and ruggedness will also be the main selection factors. For tourism, they usually choose a width of 32 to 35 millimeters (for 700 tires).
There are also tires with spikes for driving on snow and ice. These tires require a break-in of at least 50 km without sudden acceleration and braking. Studded winter tires are ideal for those pioneers who are not an obstacle to loose snow and uneven ice. Metal spikes will allow you to feel confident even on the smooth, even ice of a lake or ice rink. Rarely, but still, there are studded semi-slicks for the city, when the asphalt is often interspersed with icing or snow marks.
In principle, all winter bicycle tires are distinguished by the principle of their use and the quality of the surface on which we are going to ride.
This is a very well-known brand of "shoes" for bicycles. It appeared on the market a long time ago, but it represents very few varieties of winter tires.
Finns produce very good quality tires. The Finnish company Nokian produces high-quality bicycle tires along with car tires. The choice of summer and winter tires is quite large.
Kenda is always in demand. Both summer and winter. In their price range for studded tires, these models can be considered budget. The average cost of winter models for the 29th size is about 50 ye, which is incomparable with more serious brands in terms of price.
It is clear that the higher the quality of the tire, the more expensive it is. Expensive tires are made from high-quality rubber containing fewer impurities, fillers, and more resistant to temperature extremes, wear and tear under the influence of various external natural factors (sun, water, etc.). Expensive tires use an anti-puncture layer. They are lighter than their cheaper counterparts. Kevlar threads are used instead of steel sides, which also affects the price. But a bike tire with a Kevlrar bead can be rolled up and put in a backpack, which is very important when traveling long distances. Many expensive tires are able to self-clean from dirt that constantly clogs the tread.
Cord: This is a Kevlar or steel ring that is held onto the rim by chamber air pressure and forms part of the strength structure of a bicycle tire. Steel cord is cheaper, but Kevlar cord is flexible, allowing tires to fold and saving up to 50 grams of weight per tire.
Clincher: A tire that wraps around the rim and is held in place by air pressure. Approx 95% of bicycle tires of this type.
Kevlar: Synthetic fiber used in tire cords to increase durability, flexibility and puncture resistance layers. The term Kevlar (from the English Kevlar) is the trade name for aramid (polyparaffineline-terephthalamide), which has high strength (5 times stronger than steel, tensile strength 3620 MPa). It was developed in 1965 by the American company DuPont. In the early 1970s, commercial use of Kevlar began.
Snake bite: Puncture that occurs when the camera is pinched between the rim and a sharp or hard object. This problem can be solved by inflating the tire to the maximum recommended pressure.
Psi: Tire pressure in pounds per square meter.
Rolling resistance: Friction generated when a tire rolls. Rolling resistance is affected by rubber compound, tread pattern and tire pressure. The softer the rubber, the smaller the projector and the higher the pressure, the lower the rolling resistance.
Tire pressure gauge: Tire pressure gauge in psi. Used to determine tire pressure.
Tpi: TPI. Measure the distance between turns. Tires with more turns (120 - 160 tpi) are more puncture-proof, lighter and more expensive, while tires with fewer turns (20 - 30 tpi) are always cheaper, slightly bulkier and slightly less durable.
Single tube: Also known as bonded tyre. These tires are mainly used in racing. The chambers are glued inside to the tire, which in turn is glued to a special rim.
A mud tire is very different from both a dry dirt tire and an all purpose tire and must meet several conditions.
1. High tread spikes. Necessary in order to confidently cling to any relatively solid piece of land among eroded soil.
2. Rare tread spikes. In addition to the height, the spikes should be located at a fairly large distance from each other to quickly clean the tire.
3. Special rubber compound. Each manufacturer has its own developments regarding the composition of rubber. In general, it all comes down to ensuring that dirt sticks to the tire as little as possible. Thanks to this property, coupled with rare tread spikes, the tires maintain excellent grip on the most damp ground throughout the trip, and it does not turn into a “mud slick”.
4. Small width. It is needed in order to better “cut through” a layer of damp earth in order to cling to solid ground. But you need to proceed from their soil composition, because there are situations when it would be better to put a wide tire.
One of the most popular and inexpensive tires that used to be often put on budget bikes. Many people know it for its terrible rolling and heavy weight, but it was not made for asphalt rides at all. If you drive it into the mud, then forgive it for all other shortcomings. It meets all the qualities described above. By the way, there are variants of this tire, suitable for use even in cross-country competitions, because the company's engineers have worked on the weight of the tire, making it acceptable against competitors.
Very controversial tire. If you look at the appearance, then it looks more like a universal tire, because the tread spikes are not very high, they are located quite close. It was she who sent the flagship of the mud rubber of her time, Maxxis Medusa, to “retire”. However, one has only to drive it into the mud, as everything falls into place. Surprisingly, the tire holds the ground very well, allowing you to control the trajectory of movement, does not “blur” and pulls you into a wet climb, if it is really possible to pull into it at all.
Here, unlike the "beaver", everything is clear. Literally "tractor" tread spikes will break through any dirty slurry and find something to cling to. While your friends or rivals in the competition will suffer mercilessly and go off the trajectories into the bushes, you will simply enjoy amazing traction. Yes, even in terrible weather conditions it happens that there is something to enjoy. Steep inclines will also not be a hindrance - you can overcome them just as you overcome them in dry weather.
The Germans developed this tire a long time ago, but to this day it has not lost its relevance for use in mud conditions. The huge tread spikes make a terrible noise on hard surfaces, but when you hit the mud, the noise subsides, and you can still maintain the same speed at which you were driving. The tire has all the necessary qualities, for which it remains on the leading roles in the choice of buyers.
The name speaks for itself. It can be translated as "wild mud", "crazy mucus", but the meaning remains the same - tires are designed for the most terrible conditions. An interesting design of the tread spikes is striking, which, as it were, twists from the base to the top in several steps. The company's engineers claim that in this way, each spike is literally looking among the dirty slurry for the only opportunity to catch on and move you forward. When driving, you can fantasize in every possible way and think about this topic, because you definitely won’t have thoughts about how not to fly somewhere in the wrong place, how to drive into a steep climb and move down a steep descent.
Question: How to determine the required tire size?
Before you buy a tire, you must determine the size you need:
1. Determine the size of the rim: You do not need to buy a tire that is much wider or narrower than the rim. It is common for manufacturers to provide information on recommended tire widths for rims on their websites or promotional brochures. Another way to get accurate information about the optimal tire width for your rim is to ask your local bike shop with knowledgeable people.
2. Decide - mainly on what roads you will drive - do you need increased stability of wide tires?
3. Assess your riding style - are you a climber and need narrower tires or are you more into long touring trips that require wider tires?
What is the most versatile tire for city driving?
Slicks or tires with inverted tread. They provide good speed on asphalt. Small studs on the tread slow the bike down a little, but provide better traction on gravel or mud. Tires of medium width (28 - 32 mm or 1.5″ - 1.75″) offer the best balance of speed and comfort, on asphalt the speed will not be too high, but you can go badly off-road.
Can I use the same mountain tires in dry and muddy conditions?
Of course you can use them, but their performance will always be suboptimal. If you are new to cycling and/or on a budget, you can choose an all-round tire or a tire that best suits your terrain.
Should I buy new tubes for my new tires?
Almost always if the width of the new tire is different. Even if the camera is designed for 1.5″ - 2″, but it has been in a 2″ tire for at least 6 months, then its width will not return to its previous dimensions and it will not fit back into a 1.5″ tire. Knowing this moment, you will save a lot of time, since it is almost impossible to push such a tire back.
What should I do to avoid punctures?
1. Always inflate the tire to the pressure indicated on the tire wall.
2. Use tires with puncture protection.
3. Install anti-puncture tape between tire and tube.
4. Buy tires with a high stitch count (measured in tpi, distance between stitches)
5.
