It happens all the time, water gets sucked into your engine or somehow makes its way into your gas tank. It makes sense with all the puddles, rivers, and streams you ride through out on the trail. Or maybe the gas tank was left open and it rained quite a bit.
However it happened, you need to remove the water from your fuel tank or engine before you try to start up the machine. It’s not a very hard process and if you follow the steps below, you will be able to start your engine without causing any damage.
They do make a Fuel System Water Remover found here on Amazon. But this is only really useful for small amounts of water and this will only remove water from your fuel system. To completely clean all water out of your machine, follow the steps below.
The most common results from running an ATV with water in the engine include, blown piston rings, blown valves, or a hole in the cylinder wall or head. You see the engine was made to compress an air/fuel mixture.
The air/fuel mixture will compress by the piston moving up, to the point where a spark will light it causing a small explosion which sends the piston back down. Water doesn’t compress. So if there is water in the combustion chamber when the piston is moving upwards trying to compress an air/fuel mixture. The pressure gets to be too much and the water will find its way out of the cylinder somehow.
Usually it will just blow a piston ring, but those aren’t fun to replace. In any matter, it’s best to remove the water from the engine and the fuel before trying to start the ATV. So lets get into the steps to do that.
If ever think you’re getting water in your ATV engine, like if you’re in really deep water or something. It’s best to shut the engine off immediately. As you can see in my picture in the sidebar, I’ve done this before. Thankfully I shut the engine off as I started to feel the ATV bog down and prevented any real damage from happening.
Luckily you shut the engine off before any real damage was done too, right. If so, follow these steps before trying to start your ATV again.
Check the air filter first, none of the other steps will do you any good if your air filter is wet when you go to try starting the machine up again. If the air filter is wet, take it out of the air box.
Wipe the air box out with paper towels or rags and let dry completely. If you can get your air filter to dry out, you might be able to use it again. Just make extra sure it’s completely dry inside and out.
Drain the fuel tank, fuel lines, and clean the carburetor if your engine has one. While you’re at it, drain the oil and remove the oil filter too. If any water got in your oil, it could cause some major problems for you later on.
I like to spray some carb cleaner in all the ins and outs of the carburetor just to make sure any water in there gets removed. It’s a good idea to let your gas tank air dry after you drained it as well.
You’ve already drained the oil out of the engine and removed the oil filter, so now to force the water out of the cylinder, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over a few times. Most of the water should have come out when you drained the oil, but this will help get any remaining water out.
Refill the engine with oil, put on a new oil filter, and turn the engine over again, with the spark plugs still taken out. You’re going to want to look at the oil after you’ve let it sit for a few minutes. You’re trying to see if there is any water mixed in with the new oil you just added. If there is water you will see white colored milky areas rising to the top of the oil.
If you see water in there still, drain the oil and do those steps again. You really want to make sure there is very little or no milky white stuff in the oil.
Put the spark plugs back in, put some fresh fuel in the tank, and see if it’ll start up.
After you let it run for a few minutes, check the oil again for water. If you don’t see any milky white liquid in the oil, you should be good to go. If you do see some, change the oil and filter again until you don’t see any water in the oil.
If it does not start up, you may have done some damage. You will probably want to check the piston rings, piston, and cylinder for damage. I sank an old Polaris Scrambler when I was younger, and water got into the engine. The piston rings were shot and needed to be replaced.
If you want some tips on how to get an ATV to run again by doing a tune-up check out my, ATV Won’t Start: Common Problems And How To Fix article.
With some of the terrain you ride through, it may be impossible to avoid water. But do try to avoid going too deep. Try to keep your exhaust and air filter above water at all times. Your air filter may be in an air intake box, if so, keep that above water also.
You could also try adding a snorkel kit to your ATV. Snorkel kits allow you to go into deeper water with your ATV without the worry of doing damage to your engine. To learn more about snorkel kits and how to make one yourself, check out my How To Snorkel An ATV article.
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Winter is just around the corner and it's time to put away your ATV for the winter if you don't plan to use it in winter. Today we will talk about how to do it right with minimal loss of time to re-mothball the ATV in the spring.
Of course, these recommendations are just general guidelines and if you want to specifically know how to winterize Stels ATVs, you need to refer to the owner's manual. However, general advice is a good place to start and is suitable for almost any type and model of ATV.
Start by washing, even if it doesn't become a critical storage condition, you will certainly appreciate the advice when you get under the ATV to tighten the knots and clean the parts.
Change filters and lubricant. Many people prefer to postpone the procedure until spring, believing that the oil should not be in the engine all winter, but this will not harm the oil at all, while the old oil mixed with engine products can be stronger than any acid and begin to corrode the surface of the engine from the inside. By changing the oil, you will create a comfortable neutral environment inside the engine and it will wake up in good condition in spring. In order for the oil not only to remain in the tank, but to fill the necessary compartments of the engine, turn it on for a few minutes after changing the oil. In this short time, the products of combustion will not have time to spoil it, and fresh oil will be wherever it is needed.
If you are planning a long ATV vacation, be sure to empty the carburetor of fuel. If you do not want to completely drain the gas from the tank, close the valve that supplies fuel to the carburetor. After that, idle the ATV to get the last drops of fuel out.
Fuel remaining for a long time can cause the formation of plaque on the walls of the carburetor, from which it is almost impossible to clean its thin ducts.
Lubricate all moving parts. Handles, levers, everything that moves must be thoroughly lubricated in order not to lose mobility during the winter. But do not overdo it about how much and how to lubricate the ATV components, it is advisable to read in the manual before getting down to business. Naturally, only cleaned components and parts need to be lubricated, so do a thorough cleaning of the device. For places that are difficult to reach, use a brush or brush. Remember that a mixture of lube and dirt can be even more harmful than no lube at all.
When you inspect and clean the parts, pay attention to how the individual elements are fixed. What should move must be cleaned and lubricated, what should not move must be fixed. One of the worst nightmares of any ATV rider is to lose a small screw somewhere in a puddle of mud in the wilderness, without which the ATV will not be able to go anywhere further.
Now take care of setting what can be set. For example, the brake handle, it should not instantly cause the brake pads to move, otherwise any careless movement can cause unexpected braking. At the same time, you shouldn't crank it all the way out before the brakes begin to respond. Customize everything that can be customized. If you've always thought the brake was too fast or too inertial throughout the season, now is the time to adjust it so that you feel comfortable using it. The optimal settings are usually written in the manual.
Now the air filter. In general, in some models it is customary to clean it after each race, but few adhere to this recommendation, however, now is the time to do it. To remove grease, you can use special cleaners that effectively remove grease residues from it, but many use kerosene or gasoline for this. Just remember that it is a fire hazard and take precautions. Wash the cleaned filter in warm water with soap or dishwashing liquid, and then dry it.
The next step is to lubricate the filter, for this a special oil is used, thicker than ordinary machine oil and much more dirty. In order to apply it evenly, a solvent is used, which is sold complete with oil. The easiest way to lubricate the filter is to put it in a whole plastic bag, pour solvent and oil into it and, after tying the bag, shake it so that the oil evenly disperses through the filter. Take your time, try to distribute the oil evenly throughout the filter. After that, take the filter out of the bag and put it back in place, a couple of workouts and you can do it without getting dirty.
Check spark plugs. Do not be afraid of a small soot on them, the main thing is that it is not black. Check electrodes and gap. Remember that many sometimes seemingly imperceptible problems with the engine are deposited on the candle in the form of an unusual soot. If you are concerned about its appearance, contact an ATV repairman. Finally, check the headlights, electrics, plastic fixation, tire condition.
It is necessary to drain gasoline from the fuel compartment of any car brand in compliance with fire safety regulations. You can do it yourself, but you need to follow a certain algorithm.
Contents:
The need to empty the tank of fuel may occur in the following cases:
In a garage environment, a hose is most commonly used to drain fuel. It is best when it is made of oil resistant material.
One end of the hose is placed in the gasoline compartment, after removing the neck cap from it. Liquid is removed through the second end. It turns out that the driver, as it were, sucks out fuel.
Draining gasoline from cars with a hose can be dangerous, as there is a high chance of swallowing a small amount of fuel. After liquid enters the stomach, intoxication of the body begins. It is required to immediately call a doctor - only a specialist will be able to perform a gastric lavage.
In order not to be poisoned by gasoline, the air must be drawn in sharply, after which the end should be quickly lowered to the ground. Under it, you need to put a metal container or a special plastic canister in advance.
Luckily, it is possible to replace the regular nozzle with a hose with bulb. Pumping out the liquid occurs by pressing on a convex pear. This method of draining fuel is most often used by owners of Lada (VAZ 2114) and UAZ Patriot.
Fuel compartments in foreign cars are mounted quite low, so draining gasoline through a hose is very inconvenient.
The fuel pump installed in the car comes to the rescue. To get full access to it, you need to dismantle the rear passenger seat. The mechanism of the car must also be prepared: the electricity connection is disconnected from the pump and the motor starts for a couple of seconds. This releases excess voltage.
To work, you need to take a hose with a diameter of 1 cm. One end is connected to the pump fitting, and the other is located in the drain tank. In the pump relay, to start the pumping cycle, connect contact B3 to contact B5. After the relay is closed, the electric pump itself will begin to pump out flammable liquid.
This option is also suitable for domestic cars produced on the basis of European developments. These models include the popular Lada Largus (Largus).
Many foreign models are equipped with a gas tank with a grid. On such machines, you cannot use a hose with a pear. How to pump out gasoline from a gas tank in this case? We will use the technological passage for emergency draining of fuel.
To get to it, you need to position yourself on the ground below the fuel bay. Previously, it is better to cover the ground with a dense cloth. You can open the hole with pliers or a universal key. The cover is unscrewed manually. Drainage must be carried out in a metal tank of sufficient volume.
The above method is suitable for most foreign cars designed and manufactured in Japan.
A hand pump is a good tool for removing fuel volumes from a domestic car tank. It is a compact device, easy and safe to use.
For permanent use, it is better to purchase more expensive models, which include a hose and reducer.
Draining gasoline with this pump is very easy - just place one end in the fuel compartment and the other in a metal canister. The hand pump is started by pressing, the flow rate is also adjustable. For sharing with passenger cars, it is better to purchase a pump of greater power.
The method is suitable for domestic models of Prior and Grant cars.
Russian cars VAZ, GAZ and UAZ are equipped with an injection engine. For these vehicles, there is another way to remove the fuel fluid:
The easiest way to drain fuel is a car that, according to modification, is equipped with a drain plug or a special fitting on the rail to drain flammable liquid. For a successful drain, it is enough to unscrew these parts and substitute the dishes under the drain in time.
