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If the drive belt on your Polaris ATV is slipping, you may hear squealing, or notice a loss in speed or jerky acceleration. These are telltale signs that it's time to change out the drive belt.
Watch the video above and follow the steps below to learn how to change the drive belt on a Polaris 850 Sportsman ATV.
Step 1. Remove the left rear tire and the four 15mm bolts that hold the frame brace in place, followed by the brace itself.
Step 2. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the rear cover in place, followed by the cover itself.
Once you’ve removed the rear cover, you’ll see the clutch assembly. At this point, you’re set to remove the old belt. There are a couple of ways to remove the old drive belt from the clutch on your ATV. Both involve releasing the tension on the driven sheave in order to remove the belt.
Method One:
Step 3. Locate the opening on the driven clutch sheave by rotating the sheave around, then nsert the small end of a span/spreader wrench into the opening, with the hook facing toward the rear of the ATV.
Step 4. Push the wrench forward toward the front of the ATV to release the tension on the sheave, then remove the belt while keeping tension on the wrench.
Watch the clip below to see how to do the first method of the Polaris Sportsman drive belt removal.
Method Two:
Step 3. Locate the opening on the driven clutch sheave by rotating the sheave around, then insert the small end of the span/spreader wrench into the opening with the hook facing up, leveraging the large end against the lower drive clutch.
Step 4. Loosen the 15mm bolt at the center of the driven sheave to release tension on the belt, then remove the belt itself.
Watch the clip below to see how to do the second method of the Polaris Sportsman drive belt removal.
NOTE: If you choose the second drive belt removal method, reinstall the belt up high in the sheave by rotating the sheave counterclockwise a couple of times. This prevents you from getting a false reading when you torque the 15mm bolt back into place.
Inspecting the Drive Belt and ClutchDepending on the manufacturer of the belt you just removed, you may see arrows indicating the direction the belt is meant to rotate in the clutch. It should rotate clockwise around the pulleys. Check the belt for signs of wear. A burnt section indicates the belt may have been getting caught in the clutch. Any wear like this can severely impact the performance of your Polaris ATV.
Use your hands to feel inside the clutch sheaves, making sure the surface is smooth and without any deep grooves. Deep cuts in the sheaves will damage a new belt, and are an indicator that the sheaves may need to be replaced.
Step 1. Confirm that you’re not installing the belt backwards. The belt should rotate clockwise around the clutch pulleys.
NOTE: Some aftermarket clutch belts may have arrows that indicate the direction the belt is meant to rotate within the clutch. A factory Polaris clutch drive belt doesn’t have arrows on it, so make sure the writing on it is right-side-up during installation.
Step 2. Slide the drive belt over the lower drive clutch and upper driven clutch, making sure the belt is high in the upper clutch and not binding between the sheaves.
Step 3. Use the span/spreader wrench that was used to leverage the driven clutch so it would not move as you loosened the 15mm bolt to do the same thing on the other side to tighten the 15mm bolt.
Step 4. Tighten the 15mm bolt, making sure the belt remains high in the driven clutch to allow for an accurate torque reading.
Use a torque wrench to finish tightening the 15mm bolt to 37 foot-pounds of torque.
Step 5. Rotate the clutch a couple of times to make sure the belt isn’t binding anywhere.
Step 6. Inspect the clutch cover seal, making sure it’s in good condition and properly seated.
NOTE: Leaks can allow water to intrude, which can seriously damage the clutch, so don’t skip this step.
Step 7. Reposition the clutch cover, then tighten the ten 10mm bolts that hold the cover in place.
Step 8. Reposition the frame brace, then tighten the four 15mm bolts that hold the brace in place.
Step 9. Reattach the tire and you’re done.
NOTE: Once you put your Polaris ATV back together, start breaking in the new belt. At first, take it easy on the throttle, avoiding the temptation to hammer the throttle right away.
body
Find your mojo again By the staff of Dirt Wheels
There was a time when it was fairly rare to replace the CVT drive belt on a 4×4 quad, but now some of these models are very powerful and come with large and aggressive tires.
What we need here is some good TECH: to remedy the situation.
Plus, owners are riding them harder and punishing the CVT and its belt with high-load situations like mud-running and using track systems.
In our case, the belt on our Polaris Scrambler S let go while racing, so it was being ridden hard with no thought to belt life. Even though this is a 1000cc machine, changing the belt should be roughly the same on any of the Polaris twin-cylinder 4×4 quads.
TECH:
1. On a Sportsman or Scrambler twin-cylinder 4×4 quad, the CVT belt case is under the rear part of the body. To get to it, you will need to remove this frame tube.
TECH:
2. We could get an impact on the top bolts, but had to use a ratchet to get to the lower bolts. The same is true when you need to replace the bar.
3. There are a lot of screws holding on the belt case. We could get to a lot of them with this cordless drill, thanks to the slim 1/4-inch-drive tools, the extension, and a flex connector.
TECH:
4. Some of the belt-case screws are difficult to get at. This one is under the seat, and it can only be reached with a wrench. The screws don’t take a lot of muscle to loosen, though.
5. Some of the screws near the bottom are also hidden in spaces that are quite a challenge to reach. We used both a 10mm GearWrench ratcheting wrench and a 3/8th box-end wrench.
6. Unlike most of the Polaris UTV CVT cases, the Scrambler CVT case uses these screws. They thread right into plastic, so you have to go easy on them.
TECH:
7. With the screws out, we started working the belt case off. As soon as we could look inside, there was evidence of belt carnage with pieces sticking out at odd angles.
8. The belt shredded, so there were tough cords tangled in both of the CVT clutches. We had to use various pliers, a knife, and 30 minutes to coax all of the random parts and cords out.
9. The bottom clutch is at full spread when it is stopped, so you start the install by slipping the belt into the bottom clutch first. Work the belt up towards the top (secondary) clutch.
TECH:
10. Use the Polaris tool to spread the sheaves as far as you can so you can start working the belt into place. The Polaris tool works well.
11. Get the tool locked in to spread the sheaves, and keep both hands free to work the belt on. We found it necessary to turn the primary with a tool to help work the belt on.
12. In this shot we have the belt just about completely onto the secondary. You must make sure that you aren’t getting your fingers in a position where they can get trapped.
13. Finally, the belt is on and everything is cleaned up. All that is left is to replace the belt case and install and tighten the screws. Finish up by installing the bolt-in frame section.
TECH:
This is not a repair we would like to perform on the trail. We would if need be, but we wouldn’t like it. It would have been easier to clean the junk out of the sheaves if we had pulled the clutches off. Unfortunately, with our puller, we would have to remove a rear wheel, part of the rear suspension, and one of the rear axles.
We chose not to do that. Remember that you will need to break in the new belt to make sure it lasts. Ride the machine under half throttle for 20 miles. Don’t climb any steep hills or put a load on the belt. Stop and allow the belt to cool a few times. After break-in, you should be able to run the belt hard.
For more information on how-to stories, go to this link below:
https://dirtwheelsmag.com/how-to-installing-a-stronger-roll-cage/
To subscribe to Dirt Wheels Magazine in print or digital form click here https://hi-torque.com/product/dirtwheels.
Your snowmobile's variable speed belt is an integral part of your snowmobile's drive system and can have a significant impact on the behavior and feel of your snowmobile.
The CVT belt drive system is designed to maintain a balance between idle and top speed operation while optimizing upshifts and downshifts. By following the recommendations below, you will be able to get the best performance and extend the life of your CVT belt.
1. Select a suitable variable speed belt. A belt that is too long or too short reduces the efficiency of the drive system. A short belt creates a damaging effect on the drive system. A belt that is too long prevents the CVT from working properly.
2. If you are not planning to use the CVT belt in the near future, or if you are going to store your snowmobile for a long period of time, it is important to store the belt properly. Keep it in a dry, cool environment.
3. Check the alignment of the variator. Incorrectly installed discs, improper engine installation or worn elements of the propulsion system can lead to a rupture of the variable speed belt. Remember that there is only one correct distance from the centers of the CVT drive shaft to the center of the driven shaft, and there is only one correct position for the CVT belt.
Avoid twisting the belt.
4. When installing the variable speed belt, make sure it is properly seated on the shafts. The working belt is its basis. It should be either at the same level, or slightly above the driven variator. When installing the belt, adjust it so that it is always in this position. This will allow you to get the highest possible transfer torque from the engine to the transmission.
5. Belt noise usually indicates incorrect installation. A constantly squealing sound may indicate a strong belt tension. This can be corrected by loosening the belt tension. A squeaky, creaking sound may indicate that the belt is too loose. This can be corrected by increasing the belt tension.
6. The new belt must be run in to the variator discs. To do this, Carlisle recommends driving the snowmobile for the first 50 kilometers at 2/3 of the maximum possible engine speed. This will allow the belt to adjust to the angle of the CVT discs, creating the most belt surface contact, which in turn will allow the belt to transmit the most tractive force with maximum efficiency.
7. If for any reason you need to remove the belt from the CVT, do so in the direction of travel. To make this direction easier to remember, install the belt in such a way that its markings are readable. The direction of rotation must not be changed during operation.
8. Check the condition of the belt and drive system at regular intervals. The CVT belt and CVT drives can report problems themselves if you listen to them. First of all, you should look at exactly how the belt sits, check for excessively worn areas. The surface of the belt should not look sanded or worn. The variable speed belt must be solid, smooth, without cord damage or cracks.
9. A roughened appearance of the belt sides usually means that the belt is slipping. This can happen even with a properly installed variator belt. Apply acetone or brake cleaner to the inside of the CVT discs, NOT to the belt itself. The chemical components that make up these fluids destroy the structure of the belt and shorten its service life.
For this reason, Carlisle does not recommend the use of any reagents applied directly to the CVT belt.
10. Let the snowmobile engine warm up before driving so that the CVT belt warms up as well. Also, do not attempt to move if the track may have frozen to the ground. Pre-clear the caterpillar of ice.
Following these simple rules will allow you to spend more time on the track and less time in the parts store.
I already wrote that I had a broken CVT belt on a BRP Expedition 1200 4-TEC snowmobile this winter. Used a spare that time. Therefore, I ordered a new variator belt to be always ready. I decided to order the original belt. The snowmobile is not mine, and the original belt inspires more confidence. And in winter, when the belt, God forbid, fails, there will be no time for jokes. Ski-Doo CVT Belt 417300383 Price: 106.64USD
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I went for the first time this spring on a quad bike.
A company of 4 ATVs gathered: 1 Polaris Sportsman Touring 550 EPS, 1 Polaris Sportsman Touring 500HO and 2 Yamaha Grizzly 700. I still have stock tires that ride very badly in swamps. And today I felt it very well - in some places I simply didn’t even go, because there was 100% the prospect of getting stuck tightly.
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In Samara and the Samara region, the winter this season is not very smooth so far. There is a lot of snow, then the next day it will all melt. Snowmobiling is not yet possible in full force. But, thanks to this, I rediscovered the ATV for myself. In winter, riding an ATV is even more fun than in autumn. No dirt! Significantly more drifting, generally cool to ride an ATV in the winter.
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Postponed item. Unfortunately, I couldn't post it earlier. Mirrors are still very necessary on an ATV. They are not so important when you drive through the fields, roads in the forest. But on public roads without them anywhere.
And sometimes you still need to drive a little and along the road. Turning your head while moving, turning back is very dangerous.
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In addition to spare parts from America, I also bought a windshield for an ATV there. Part number: 2878392 I chose transparent glass. It will still be scratched during operation and will be opaque. Although of course there was a temptation to take darker glass. But practicality prevailed. I bought high glass. To completely cover me in the winter with the wind. For the summer, until at least I plan to shoot back the glass. Fortunately, they write that it takes 15 seconds to remove and install the windshield. It's not so handy. Too many attachments on the handlebar. Lots of cables too.
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I already wrote in an article about TO-2 on Polaris that I contacted the dealer about this. When driving in any weather, on any surface, the ATV may stall. After that, restarting the engine solves all problems.
Sometimes, after restarting, the electric power steering does not work, sometimes the information panel does not work. But after a restart - and it is solved. Diagnostics at the dealer showed that the idle speed sensor gives incorrect errors. And most likely it's all about him. On TO-2, they checked all the contacts, cleaned the throttle.
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Well, the parts for the Polaris 550 Sportman Touring EPS ATV and also for the SKI DOO Expedition 1200 4-TEC snowmobile finally arrived. I needed parts for the snowmobile - mirrors, handles and one mesh. All this is the result of my triple coat on a snowmobile last season at the end of winter. I picked up all the part numbers in the original SKI DOO catalogue. And for the ATV, I ordered mirrors and maintenance consumables (oil filter, air filter), as well as brake pads. I found the numbers of consumables and mirrors in the catalog that I downloaded from the official Brandt Polaris website. There at the end there is a summary table, according to which I picked up all the necessary numbers.
I decided to order everything in the online store: Gearhead.com After ordering ...
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It's time to get your ATV ready for winter. I'll try to ride a quad in the winter. Deep snow for a snowmobile is probably expected only in 2014 at best. Therefore, an ATV will be the most suitable means of transportation for outdoor activities on weekends. Decided to combine winter preparation with TO-2. Unfortunately, although I ordered all consumables for my Polaris in America. But they will probably come in early December. I did not wait, all the same consumables will not be lost. Therefore, I signed up for MOT at Brandt-Polaris. But this was not the only reason for contacting the dealer. There was a floating problem - sometimes the ATV stalls on the go. After that, restart and you can go further. There are many options for the occurrence of this ...
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I have long wanted to buy a hitch for my ATV. Now I have 2 trailers at home.
