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Anyone made a homemade drag for an atv and have plans to share? I just have a couple small spots about 1 acre to put in food plots and I use a groundhog maxx to disc. I dont want to buy an expense drag for the little ground I have. Also, if I didn't drag the plot and just disced and planted the seed, would I have trouble getting the seed to take.
Ive used Old piece of hog panel, old gate, old fence posts, all worked great. ..especially when you attach as much Sanford and son to the top as possible. Lots of fun making junk productive.
cyclone fence works as a good drag too.
TBP, seed to soil contact is of ultimate importance. If you can't drag it, use your atv tires to pack it.
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I tied 2 old truck tires together and drug them behind my four wheeler it worked great.
Thanks for the info.
Swing by my place man ive got a drag harrow you can use.
we use an old box spring
TBL said:
Anyone made a homemade drag for an atv and have plans to share? I just have a couple small spots about 1 acre to put in food plots and I use a groundhog maxx to disc.
I dont want to buy an expense drag for the little ground I have. Also, if I didn't drag the plot and just disced and planted the seed, would I have trouble getting the seed to take.
Click to expand...
How do you like the groundhog max?
bigredhunter said:
we use an old box spring
Click to expand...
yep i heard that works awesome too.......like the old cyclone fence as well..works perfect
A wood pallet works great for breaking clods, and if you have a big enough piece of equipment you can tie more than one together.
columbia whitetail said:
Swing by my place man ive got a drag harrow you can use.
Click to expand...
Thanks man. I wish i was closer. The gas I would use would pay for a drag.
120+ said:
How do you like the groundhog max?
Click to expand...
I really like it. I worked up a small area around our buddy stand for my boy a while back...havent been back to check it yet, but it worked great as far a TEARING UP the ground. I did have a problem with my atv overheating as I was in the middle of a tight area and did alot of slow running and turning. I had to shut it off after about 30 minutes for about 30 minutes and then finished it up. I have a Polaris Sportsman 500 4X4. Liquid and air cooled but just didn't move fast enough for air to help I guess. I am going to put in an acre plot for winter in an open field so I will see if it stays cooler.
Overall, Great investment for what I need it for.
Something else that can be used is a piece of railroad rail. Not a wood railroad tie but a piece of rail. I have a 5ft section that we burned holes through and use chain to square it up and pull. Weight is perfect and does an awesome job as a drag.
KyHorse said:
Something else that can be used is a piece of railroad rail. Not a wood railroad tie but a piece of rail. I have a 5ft section that we burned holes through and use chain to square it up and pull. Weight is perfect and does an awesome job as a drag.
Click to expand...
Agree, just have some horses and some weight to pull it with cuz I think they are 132 lbs or so per yard? I use a 12 footer as both a drag and weight on top of my disc and it is worth it's weight in steel.
.. you sure know it's back there with a 65hp tractor. Plus youll look everywhere for one and right after you buy it you find some laying in the woods.
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I have 20 feet of donated chain link fence, 6 foot wide. I'm thinking that is too long to drag around corners effectively.
You think 10' chain will work OK? I'm just using what I have on hand, 2 x 6 sandwiching the fence in front, 2 x 4 in the back.
Never used one before so any help is appreciated.
I'm going to drag it with an old logging chain.
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I suspect you will find it doesn’t do much with out some way to add weight evenly. Pretty much rides on top. I have a 4’ x 8’ drag harrow like you see in the farm catalogs. It must weigh a couple hundred pounds. Same thing, mostly. Smoothes out my disc work.
rakane said:
I have 20 feet of donated chain link fence, 6 foot wide. I'm thinking that is too long to drag around corners effectively.
You think 10' chain will work OK? I'm just using what I have on hand, 2 x 6 sandwiching the fence in front, 2 x 4 in the back.
Never used one before so any help is appreciated. I'm going to drag it with an old logging chain.
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BigJim55Save Share
Not sure if this is what your use is but I made one 2 years ago. Just temporary one time use thing.
I used a approx 4 ft square skid.
Added some 1x 4 boards to the bottom, ran some 1/2 lag bolts (maybe 100) thru the added boards and bottom of the skid so they stuck out approx an inch.
Flip this over so the protruding screw threads would "scratch" the ground for prepping the soil for seeding native grasses and forbs.
I had to add a box with a bunch of rocks on top of the skid so it dug in rather than bounce over the ground.
I pulled this with my little 16hp old wheelhorse tractor. This was too hard on the wheelhorse, ended up breaking the piston and had to rent a small diesel lawn tractor to finish the job.
Didn't have the 2720 at the time but a much bigger 4610.
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BigJim55Save Share
Whatever you decide to do, I'd appreciate it if you'd post a picture and report back on how it works. I've been looking at this drag harrow from Northern Tool but I've also contemplated making something. I'd like to have something to use after I till up some really rough ground. I've tried using a box blade but I just can't get it smooth enough for grass seed. I still end up with high and low spots.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641649_200641649
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BigJim55 and driveshaftSave Share
If your considering a unit like that from Northern Tool, check out the Four Sale section. SulleyBear had a drag for sale recently. It may be too much for you, it may not be.
I haven't looked at the post for a while, but it might be something you're interested in.
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BigJim55, driveshaft and PJR832Save Share
I'm a believer in using what you have. In my case, it was large chunk of oak weighing down an old metal bed spring from before the days of modern box springs....
I'm sure you could drag a length of chain link fence behind you. I'd think 5 or 6 feet would be plenty but you'll also want some weight on it to help it work better... Too bad you don't have a length of I beam or heavy angle iron to mount towards the front to scuff things up so the chain can smooth it out.
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Oscar Leroy, KHodges, BigJim55 and 5 othersSave Share
It looks like you finally got the fabric wore off.
I used the same thing years ago. Took forever to wear off the cover, but when it was gone it worked much better.
Here is the post from the For Sale section that kylew mentioned.
New Drag Harrow, Never Used, 3 point NOT required
ErikR said:
I'm a believer in using what you have. In my case, it was large chunk of oak weighing down an old metal bed spring from before the days of modern box springs....
Click to expand...
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keane, Town Manager, driveshaft and 3 othersSave Share
I have one of those, but unless your earth is slightly loose they don't work that great. I am looking at different things myself and haven't found one yet that will work for over-seeding and not ruin what you already have for grass.
What I have been using with my 24 horse lawn tractor but takes forever, is a regular ole metal spike aerator.
. I put 150 pounds on it and just go.. It messes up the ground just enough to over-seed. If your ground has undulations then unfortunately a landscape rake might be the ticket. I do have a 7' landscape rake from my past business but then I need the bigger machine with a three point hitch and it basically makes the ground a total start over deal.. even with gauge wheels.
I am also a believer in using what you have and the old bedspring thing works for certain things like a driveway grader! but when you get to the end of the drag,,,,,, well... you'll get to learn pretty quick on how to maneuver things!
After checking with Sully's post his is not the one I have, his is much larger and I can pick mine up, with a little trouble because it's unruly but it does not weigh 315 pounds. It's more like 4'X6'.. Maybe 80 pounds?
stevenmc001 said:
Whatever you decide to do, I'd appreciate it if you'd post a picture and report back on how it works.
I've been looking at this drag harrow from Northern Tool but I've also contemplated making something. I'd like to have something to use after I till up some really rough ground. I've tried using a box blade but I just can't get it smooth enough for grass seed. I still end up with high and low spots.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641649_200641649View attachment 735532
Click to expand...
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driveshaft and rtgtSave Share
I think it mostly depends on your intended use. I've seen a homemade drag in action that was a 6'x10' section of old dog kennel, he used treated 2x4's around the top edge for weight and it works remarkably well in his driveway. Not sure if it would work for dragging and leveling new soil, but for his use the chain link fence works well.
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rtgt, ttazzman, driveshaft and 2 othersSave Share
I live in OR, don't want to ship #350.
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rtgt said:
It looks like you finally got the fabric wore off.
I used the same thing years ago. Took forever to wear off the cover, but when it was gone it worked much better. View attachment 735544
Here is the post from the For Sale section that kylew mentioned.
New Drag Harrow, Never Used, 3 point NOT required
Click to expand...
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rtgt and driveshaftSave Share
So on my journey to level out some ground that grew pasture blend grasses, I've disced it and ended up with the sod getting disced repeatedly. So I started to pile up the loose material so it can cook down a couple months. This gave me a chance to see how well my disc did on bare, moist ground. It cut about 2" into the dirt. I don't know if it should do more but this will work for me.
I can use the loader and box blade to move some dirt to fill low spots.
My beginning dirt/mulch pile. The pile is much larger but I only got 1/2 the area cleared to dirt. I had to transition to mowing to beat Wed's rain.
The truth is, I'm spending seat time having fun. I could have put down top soil to even things out, but I wouldn't get to play as much.
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keane, rtgt, FortClatsop and 4 othersSave Share
Friend of mine uses an old boat trailer with the axles off.
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rtgt and PJR832Save Share
I currently use a 6x8-ish piece of chain link to smooth my sand arena, pulled by my AMT. For weight, I have 5 pieces of #8 rebar threaded through it at even intervals. I also add additional weight with some concrete pavers.
In sand, it penetrates maybe an inch with the pavers riding on top? But it does smooth nicely. It is a hold-over until we can get a proper arena groomer.
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rtgt, PJR832 and rakaneSave Share
Understood.
Just threw it out there in case something could be worked out and it had been mentioned.
rakane said:
I live in OR, don't want to ship #350.
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PJR832Save Share
I also have that one, or one of the similar versions. I agree with tj1, it was a bit disappointing on harder ground, and it doesn't really do much for dethatching because it clogs up.
The teeth won't dig facing forward. I suppose you could improve the function by setting some weight on it. It will smooth out something like a riding ring pretty well.
stevenmc001 said:
Whatever you decide to do, I'd appreciate it if you'd post a picture and report back on how it works. I've been looking at this drag harrow from Northern Tool but I've also contemplated making something. I'd like to have something to use after I till up some really rough ground. I've tried using a box blade but I just can't get it smooth enough for grass seed. I still end up with high and low spots.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641649_200641649View attachment 735532
Click to expand...
Save Share
I love the old bedspring drag. Find an old mannequin and tie its hands to the back and drag it around, you'll definitely have the neighbors making phone calls.
ErikR said:
I'm a believer in using what you have. In my case, it was large chunk of oak weighing down an old metal bed spring from before the days of modern box springs....
View attachment 735533
I'm sure you could drag a length of chain link fence behind you. I'd think 5 or 6 feet would be plenty but you'll also want some weight on it to help it work better... Too bad you don't have a length of I beam or heavy angle iron to mount towards the front to scuff things up so the chain can smooth it out.
Click to expand...
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ssjfyr, rtgt, PJR832 and 2 othersSave Share
The only way drags are really effective is if you buy the biggest heaviest set your tractor can pull, otherwise they're just along for the ride. Buy an actual set of farm drags and you'll see results.
KHodges said:
I also have that one, or one of the similar versions. I agree with tj1, it was a bit disappointing on harder ground, and it doesn't really do much for dethatching because it clogs up. The teeth won't dig facing forward. I suppose you could improve the function by setting some weight on it. It will smooth out something like a riding ring pretty well.
Click to expand...
Reactions:
rakaneSave Share
I had the high/low spots to get rid of. The cross boards on the skid worked great for that. They pushed the loose dirt along and it fell into the low spots as it went along.
The soil was like talcum powder when done.
stevenmc001 said:
Whatever you decide to do, I'd appreciate it if you'd post a picture and report back on how it works.
I've been looking at this drag harrow from Northern Tool but I've also contemplated making something. I'd like to have something to use after I till up some really rough ground. I've tried using a box blade but I just can't get it smooth enough for grass seed. I still end up with high and low spots.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641649_200641649View attachment 735532
Click to expand...
Save Share
I bolted some 4x4 to a TSC Carry-All to help smooth out tilled dirt. Several passes of tiller over ex-cornfield then several passes of this rig. I lifted the 3pt a bit with each pass so it wouldn't dig in a leave a huge pile at each end. I also do subsequent passes at 90 degrees so I don't just make swales. The goal was to stop beating myself with the 1025R going over plow ruts and it worked ok for that. And was less that a hundred bucks in parts.
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Andursun0013 and KbarSave Share
Impressive
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Please consider creating a new thread.Top
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Gabarits in collected form (mm. ) | 1800 x 1100 x 1150 | |
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| front brake | 2x hydraulic disk, manual | |
| Rear brake | hydraulic disk, manual | |
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| Max. Load (kg.) | 200 | |
| Front suspension | Independent two -lever, on ball supports with two adjustable shock absorbers | |
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| Color | Metallic grey, bright yellow. |
| Engine type | Petrol, 1-cylinder, 4-stroke | ||
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| type of ignition | Electronic (C. D.I) | ||
| Fuel supply 9000 9000 | 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 005 | Engine Launch | Elektrostarter + Inertial Starter |
| Transmission | Variator | ||
| 9000 | 9000 9000 tank (l.) | 5 | |
| Type and brand of fuel | AI-92 | ||
| Type of drive | on the rear axle | ||
| CLAM | Strengthened, 530 | ||
| 12V/9000 | Gabarits in the collateral (mm. | 1800 x 1100 x 11507 | |
| Roosts (mm.) | - | ||
| Height (mm) | 9000 - |||
| 167.5 | |||
| Tires: front / rear | 23 x 7 - 10 /22 x 10 - 10. SUV on cast discs | 9000 | 2X hydraulic disc, manual |
| Rear brake | Hydraulic disc, manual | ||
| Max. speed (km/h) | 70 | ||
| Max. load (kg.) | 200 | ||
| Front suspension | Independent two -lever, on ball supports with two adjustable shock absorbers | ||
| Suspension | ANMOCANTIONAL ANMOCYSTICIAL ANMOCTICIAL ANCOPITION 9000 | | |
| Rear rack | | ||
| Front rack | | ||
The maximum load on the trunk (kg. ) | to 25 | ||
| Light | Middle Light, high light + rear stop, rear lights + large additional. LED LED | ||
| Refinement lights | ✔ | ||
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Articles
20 Feb
At first glance, it may seem that assembling a homemade ATV is not an easy task.
In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems, with the necessary parts and tools. An all-terrain vehicle of this type is usually constructed from parts that can be found on any unused motorcycle that is in decent working order. nine0352
To assemble the machine yourself, you may need the following tools:
• Welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• Good set of ring and socket wrenches.
• Other small tools such as pliers and screwdrivers.
To assemble the ATV, you will need a small room with good lighting and heating. If you assemble in the summer, you can sit under a canopy. nine0352
As a power unit for a homemade all-terrain vehicle, engines from Soviet-made motorcycles such as the Ural or Dnepr are suitable. For lighter and more maneuverable equipment, you can use units from motorcycles such as "Java" or "IZH", which were equipped with single-cylinder two-stroke engines.
To simplify the design of the future ATV, together with the engine it is better to use the same transmission and drive with which they were originally equipped. To design a machine with all-wheel drive, you will need to install an additional gearbox. This is extremely rarely used in home-made devices, since it will be difficult to implement an additional node without a sharp increase in weight at home. nine0352
The frame for a homemade machine is usually made by yourself from scratch. As a material for the frame, you can use blanks from an old motorcycle. The pipes from which they are made are light in weight and have the necessary strength and flexibility. In extreme cases, you can choose the material yourself. Here the main parameter will be weight. Excessively thick pipes or profiles will make the ATV very heavy and unbearable for fast and maneuverable riding. nine0352
As a suspension, shock absorbers with springs from the same motorcycles can be used.
The suspension itself is made in the form of the letter "A", and is movably fixed on the frame. Shock absorbers and springs should be selected in such a way that they can withstand the weight of the future car, and provide a smooth ride with good handling on bumps and pits.
Partially motorcycle steering can be used, with the addition of two-wheel drive. The drive is carried out by adding levers and ball joints to the design, which can be borrowed from the car. The main task of steering is precise and comfortable steering. nine0352
All-terrain vehicle wheels are best used from inside the vehicle, as they are wider and will allow for more cross-country ability. The diameter of the wheels must be calculated in such a way that a home-made ATV can develop sufficient speed, and also have a harmonious appearance.
Attachments, gas tank and controls can be mounted on a motorcycle frame that is structurally connected to an ATV frame.
