Looking for the exact location of each and every part required to finalize an ATV in Last Day On Earth Survival game? So your search ends here because in this post we are going to tell you exactly where and how you can find all the required parts to finalize the ATV. So just go through this post and farm in the locations mentioned below and soon you should have all the required parts in your inventory. So lets check it out!
First of all you will need to craft the ATV for which you will need 25 Iron Bars, 20 Pine Planks, 15 Wirings, 15 Bolts and 10 Duct Tapes. After that we need to Finalize it, so let’s check out which are the parts that are needed to finalize the ATV. Including all quantities of every required parts, you will need a total of 1658 items. Below you can find the list of required parts –
1 ATV Transmission
1 ATV Gas Tank
250 Thick Fabric
500 Scrap Metal
150 Rubber Parts
16 ATV Wheels
120 Wiring
200 Engine Parts
320 Bolts
100 Ball Bearings
So you can see its quite a lot of items but you don’t need to worry because if you know the correct locations of all parts then it won’t take you more than just a few weeks to collect all the parts. So below we will tell you the location of every part individually.
Bolts – These can be found inside loot boxes at green zones on the map. But since we need 320 of these for our ATV so if you want to get them faster then you can explore the yellow zones or even the red zones which are the most hardest ones to explore.
Ball Bearings – Its a mechanical part used as a machine element in various machines like Zombie Truck, Mi-24 Helicopter, Turret etc. This item is not quite rare and you can get it inside crates or boxes at random locations. A bit difficult regions like yellow zones on the map or a random drop like a “Humanitarian Aid” or “Plane Crash” event have a higher chance to drop this item inside boxes.
ATV Gas Tank – Currently the drop rate of this Gas Tank is pretty high and you can easily get it by visiting the Limestone Cliffs and by exploring the giant box at Air Drop event. It can also be found inside backpacks of AI players who attack you while exploration.
Thick Fabric – You need to build a Sewing Table and then use pieces of cloth (obtained from corpses of simple and giant zombies) to craft Thick Fabrics required to finalize the ATV. You can also use plant fibers to craft pieces of cloth to craft your fabrics even more faster.
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Scrap Metal – Its a rusted scrap metal which can also be melted into an iron bar using a Melting Furnace. For our ATV we need 500 of these. These are also quite an easy to obtain resource and can be found inside small crates even at the most easiest (green zones) locations. Additionally, they can be also found inside backpacks of other survivors who attack you at various locations.
Rubber Parts – It is an important part used in various vehicles and machines like Sewing Table and Repair Station.
These are a bit rare items and hence it can take you a few weeks to collect a total of 150 of these for our ATV. These are mainly found at Yellow Zones on the global map like Limestone Cliffs, Pine Grove, Bunker Bravo etc. They also have a high drop rate at the Plane Crash Event and at Red Zones. You can find more of these by visiting the random Crashed Plane Event. Check out our post on how to get plane cash event in Last Day On Earth to get this event whenever you want.
Wiring – This is quite an easily obtainable item. Look for them inside boxes at green locations and you should be able to find them.
ATV Wheels
– These wheels are not extremely rare like a few other parts but still a bit difficult to obtain but eventually you will be able to collect the required 16 wheels. They can be found at Yellow and Red Zones. They can also sometimes drop at Air Drop event.
Engine Parts – These are an important and quite rare items, used not only in ATV but also in Chopper.
You need to basically search for these at Bunker Bravo, Bunker Alfa or sometimes they can also be found inside the giant box at Humanitarian Aid random event (Air Drop). Additionally, this item also can be found inside “Box of Spares” at the game shop. You can also find a few of these at NPC bases on the Global map and sometimes they can also be found inside backpacks of AI players.
ATV Transmission – This is a missing part of the ATV. It has not been released in the game yet but is expected to be released soon as more regions on the map are ready to be explored and released, especially the regions across the river.
So these were the locations where users have reported to have found the particular items in the game. Knowing the above locations will help you plan a good strategy to follow and hence quickly assemble all the required parts of the ATV.
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Working on finishing up weapon mods or slowly building the ATV? These Last Day on Earth end-game grinds require lots of rare items, and two of the hardest ones to get are factory parts and carbon composite. Lets take a look at a few different ways you can get your hands on some!
The methods for collecting factory parts and carbon composite have changed a few times. Currently, there are three main methods to stock up: The Recycler, Sunken Chests, and Bunker Bravo. I’ve made a video all about this topic below, or you could continue reading this written version of the guide as well.
I’m listing the recycler first because I think it is currently the best option for most players.
This method is a GRIND, but it will consistently net you loads of carbon composite and factory parts if you are patient with it.
For this method we’ll be focusing on leveling up the recycler’s “firearms” category. You can level up the category by recycling low durability guns at first, and then chucking in full durability ones once your level has gotten somewhere in the ballpark of 30.
Every time you recycle a gun you have a change of obtaining factory parts and carbon composite. The tricky bit is that the recycler level for “firearms” works differently than other categories. A guns durability is also factored into the drop percentages, but we don’t get to see that math. So, to get the most out of it you’ll just want to remember to consistently place your low durability guns in there until at least level 25. Then your drop percentages will be more favorable, and it will make more sense to take a gamble recycling full durability guns.
As long as you’re consistently clearing Bunker Alfa and lower level Blackport PD waves you should have enough leftover guns to make steady progress with this method.
You’ll definitely want to learn how to wall trick and rely more on melee weapons overall.
Sunken Chests are are a great way to affordably earn occasional stockpiles of carbon composite and factory parts. The nice thing about this grind is that it’s complimentary to the boat building process. If you’re working on building your boat you’ll just naturally unlock these chests as well.
I would recommend watching my boat building guide for a good explanation of how to get the most out of the delivery system that you’ll be leveling up to unlock crane keys for these sunken boxes. I start talking about sunken chests and the delivery system around the 1:30 mark.
The long-short of this method is that you’ll want to save up the crane keys until you’ve leveled up your genesis reputation level.
A higher reputation level will result in more carbon composite and factory parts in the chests. You can see a comparison between lower and higher leveled chests in this article.
I’m listing Bunker Bravo last because it is the hardest and somewhat counter-intuitive method. Bunker Bravo is hands down the most difficult content you can take on in ldoe. It does reward factory parts and carbon composite, but not without some trickery.
Bunker Bravo is the hardest content in the game, so you’d naturally want to go in with modded guns, right? Fully or even partially modded AKs or Scars aren’t necessary for completing Bravo floors, but they will sure as hell make it much more bearable, not easy, just bearable. This is where the counter-intuitive nature of Bravo comes in. You’re attempting to complete content to get parts for mods, but you need mods in the first place so the farmable content isn’t a complete hell to finish.
The Bunker Bravo grind is one that I’d recommend focusing on after you’ve already completed a good number of high performance gun mods.
It’s much more of an ATV grind than a weapon mod material grind….at least when compared to other options that are available.
If you’re up for the challenge, you should just focus on farming the second floor. This floor will give you the most bang for your buck in terms of weapon modding materials; specifically carbon composite. I would still recommend using the recycler method as a main source for factory parts, as these are handed out in lower amounts at Bravo. You should also have at least some gun mods.
For the best chance at surviving I’d recommend watching several different YouTube guides that cover the second floor. See what the difficulty difference between fully kitted-out loadouts and “ftp” or “cheapest” loadouts ends up looking like. Most importantly, be prepared for even your first couple runs to be complete disasters. Bravo has a huge learning curve, and no amount of tutorials are going to translate to the feeling of simultaneously wading through radiation pools, toxic acid, and getting pummeled by some of the highest dps enemies this side of the zombie apocalypse.
You can actually net some nice mod material payouts during season and event activities too! Seasons with NPC reputation systems have offered up factory parts and carbon composite if you level up your rank enough. These materials have also been included as rewards that can be bought with specific event currencies. Seasons and events aren’t consistent ways to earn these mod materials, but they can definitely help supplement your other farming methods.
Thanks for reading this guide! Feel free to ask any follow up questions in the comments below. Have any other suggestions for finding factory parts or carbon composite in ldoe?
ATV riding techniques could be the subject of a full book. In the same article, we want to reveal to you the basics of safe riding. At first glance, there is nothing complicated in driving ATVs - you just need to steer and enjoy riding.
When driving over bumps, for example, those of the "wave" type, the driver must change his position all the time. So, when approaching an obstacle, you must shift your body back, otherwise you can hit the obstacle with your wheels. When driving over a bump, you need to move the body back forward, thus preventing excessive separation of the front wheels, i.e. rearing up the ATV. Then, when the rear wheels come off the ground, you need to move back again, otherwise you can fall out of the saddle, hitting your knees on the steering wheel.
Moving in a straight line at low speeds (up to 40 km/h), you can afford to relax. But at higher speeds or when passing sharp turns and slopes, the driver must move very actively. Indeed, due to the high center of gravity, short wheelbase and small width, ATVs are very prone to rollovers. In addition, if the motorcycle flies separately from the motorcyclist during falls, then the ATV most often covers the driver. Therefore, in order for ATV riding not to end with serious injuries, it is necessary to study the driving rules and strictly follow them.
ATV rider's weight is an important factor that affects machine handling. By shifting their weight, the driver can unload or load the front or rear of the ATV, thus compensating for centrifugal forces.
The first rule you need to learn is that when riding an ATV, you need to relax your arms. When driving, the driver can always let go of his hands, because his legs are holding him in the saddle. As the speed increases, the load on the legs also increases.
Conventionally, three racks are distinguished. The middle stance is used when driving in a straight line without turning. When opening the gas, the body must be moved forward to unload the hands. Thus, the front strut is obtained. When braking and closing the gas, the body, on the contrary, must be moved back, i.e. take a back seat. By the way, the word "stand" comes from the word "stand", and this name is not accidental. When actively riding an ATV, you do not have to sit. Standing on an ATV lowers your center of gravity. After all, there is a huge difference between the weight on a high saddle and the weight on the footrests. And the effect of moving the body in a standing position is much greater than from fidgeting back and forth on the saddle.
When going through a turn on a motorcycle, it is tilted inward, thus struggling with centrifugal force. But you can't do that with a quad bike. Therefore, it is necessary to use the weight of the driver. The main rule here is to always transfer the weight inside the turn. Moreover, it is necessary not only to tilt your shoulders. It is necessary to hang the entire body, including the fifth point. Only the shin and knee hold on to the saddle. Of course, if you turn at minimum speed, then you can limit yourself to turning the steering wheel.
The correct stance is characterized by slightly bent knees, elbows set apart, and a slightly arched and relaxed back. Why not stand on straight legs or keep your back straight and tense? Because bent knees allow you to absorb shock coming from uneven terrain. By the way, the force of these blows is sometimes quite enough to knock the driver out of the saddle. A straight tense back under such conditions can lead to injury to the intervertebral discs and even a compression fracture of the spine.
Yes, and the internal organs with the wrong fit will have a hard time.
Active ATV riding requires good physical shape. So, in quad schools, the duration of the lesson does not exceed an hour, and at the end of the lesson, students can literally be squeezed out. And riding an ATV off-road is also an activity worthy of training in the gym.
When riding non-sport ATVs, it is best to avoid jumping. Firstly, this way you can break the ATV. Secondly, in order to safely perform such tricks, the ATV motor must have high-torque and fast response to the throttle. If, nevertheless, the jump could not be avoided, then it is necessary to land in the middle stance, but be ready to move to the back. When the wheels touch the ground, you need to slightly open the gas. It is better not to use four-wheel drive when jumping.
Every time you ride an ATV, you need to practice looking into the distance. This is necessary to develop the habit of evaluating the trajectory of movement in advance.
Beginners often do not have time to track the road, and at some point they are not ready to perform adequate actions. And another, very predictable obstacle, can become a problem for them.
| When moving along a slope, it is necessary to move the body in the direction opposite to the slope. On the steepest sections, full overhang should be used, such as when cornering at speed.
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Before you start climbing, you need to pick up speed. Then the resulting inertia will allow you to smoothly drive into the steepness.
If you suddenly open the gas directly on the rise, the ATV may tip over. Climbing should be in the most forward stance and on medium gas. If the incline is too steep, the ATV may roll backward when the throttle is released. In this case, you should not brake with the front axle, not the rear. If the ATV starts to roll over, you can try to jump to the side, but this acrobatic stunt is unlikely to be successful.
If the driver moves his torso out of the turn, then his centrifugal forces will pull him to the outer radius, and in order to stay in the saddle, he will need to firmly grip the steering wheel. At the same time, the ATV will definitely try to roll over. To avoid such an unpleasant situation, it is always necessary to remember a simple rule - to shift the body only in the direction of rotation. Those. if we turn to the left, then we shift the body to the left side, and vice versa.
Descents must be made in the C-pillar.
In this case, the arms must be extended and slightly bent at the elbows. There is no emphasis on the hands, you can even let them go, holding on with your feet. The steeper the descent, the more the driver must move the body back. The lower photos show the consequences of a descent in an incorrect landing. The main mistakes - the driver shifted the weight forward and pressed his hands to the body.
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20 Feb
At first glance, it may seem that assembling a homemade ATV is not an easy task. In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems, with the necessary parts and tools. An all-terrain vehicle of this type is usually constructed from parts that can be found on any unused motorcycle that is in decent working order.
To assemble the machine yourself, you may need the following tools:
• Welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• Good set of ring and socket wrenches.
• Other small tools such as pliers and screwdrivers.
To assemble the ATV, you will need a small room with good lighting and heating. If you assemble in the summer, you can sit under a canopy.
As a power unit for a homemade all-terrain vehicle, engines from Soviet-made motorcycles such as the Ural or Dnepr are suitable. For lighter and more maneuverable equipment, you can use units from motorcycles such as "Java" or "IZH", which were equipped with single-cylinder two-stroke engines.
To simplify the design of the future ATV, together with the engine it is better to use the same transmission and drive with which they were originally equipped. To design a machine with all-wheel drive, you will need to install an additional gearbox. This is extremely rarely used in home-made devices, since it will be difficult to implement an additional node without a sharp increase in weight at home.
The frame for a homemade machine is usually made by yourself from scratch. As a material for the frame, you can use blanks from an old motorcycle. The pipes from which they are made are light in weight and have the necessary strength and flexibility. In extreme cases, you can choose the material yourself. Here the main parameter will be weight. Excessively thick pipes or profiles will make the ATV very heavy and unbearable for fast and maneuverable riding.
Shock absorbers with springs from the same motorcycles can be used as suspension. The suspension itself is made in the form of the letter "A", and is movably fixed on the frame. Shock absorbers and springs should be selected in such a way that they can withstand the weight of the future car, and provide a smooth ride with good handling on bumps and pits.
Partially motorcycle steering can be used, with the addition of two-wheel drive.
