| How-To - Wheels and Tires
Mounting tires on beadlock wheels is something that just about anyone can do and with a few tips and tricks it can be downright easy if not tedious (there are a ton of bolts!). Here's what we do, and while doing 4 or 5 tires and wheels may become tedious, it's got to happen and having the system honed down to a well-oiled machine is going to save you precious minutes that you could spend wheeling. Check it out.
What you need:
These are the items you'll need to get your tires mounted on to beadlock wheels. Wheels, tires, soapy water or window cleaner, a valve stem seating tool, a 5-Gallon bucket, ratchet and socket (most beadlock wheels use 5/16 bolts that have a 1/2-inch head), torque wrench, and a source of compressed air.
The first step in mounting tires on beadlock wheels is to insert the valve stem in the wheel. This is often overlooked. To do this you will need a valve stem seating tool available at almost any auto parts store.
With the valve stem mounted in your beadlock wheel spray the tires inside (back) bead bundle and beadlock outer ring with plenty of soapy water.
Now lay the tire on the wheel. Part of the tire should slip over the beadlock mounting face of the wheel. Use your weight and muscles to stretch that inner bead bundle over the beadlock mounting surface.
With the tires inner bead over the beadlock wheels you should have something like this. If you are mounting up aluminum wheels the beadlock mounting surface may have a machined shoulder that you have to get the tire's outer bead bundle around before you can install the ring. Use a rubber dead blow to stretch the bead bundle ever so slightly so it slips over the machined shoulder.
Finally we are going to use that 5-gallon bucket. Flip it over and get the tire and wheel on to the bucket like a round miniature work bench
Now you can start installing the retaining bolts following the instructions basically you want to put the first four or 8 bolts in the wheel in a star pattern with bolts opposite each other.
Use a ratchet to get all the bolts snug tightening in a star pattern. We try to use the bolt closest to the valve stem as a starting point. Then count the number of bolts and divide in half to be sure you have the bolt directly across from that one (in our case 16 bolts of the 32 total) then count 8 more bolts and 16 to get the two bolts that are 90 degrees to the one you started with.
Once all the bolts are snug use a torque wrench and follow the star pattern described above, tightening in stages to the torque specs in the instructions. In our case the BattleBorn wheels called for 10lb/ft followed by 18lb/fts respectively.
Once the torque specs are met on each bolt we like to soap up the tires inner bead bundle and inner rim of the wheel. This helps the bundle seal against the wheel. You may have to push on the back of the wheel to help seal the tire against the wheel so air will stay inside the tire/wheel
Last fill the tire with air.
It’s no surprise that fads come and go in the automotive industry.
The 1950s brought us moon disc wheel covers, chopped tops, frenched taillights, lake pipes, and more. Then in the ’60s, the enthusiasts were blessed with straight-axle gassers, killer wheels like American Racing’s Torq-Thrust, Radir’s Tri-Rib, Astro Supreme, and vibrant candy paint jobs. The ‘70s were full of more of the same with big-blocks, tunnel rams, and wild vans. And as technology changes, performance automotive companies keep pushing out new and improved components to meet modern needs.
One product that’s super-hot in the wheel market currently are beadlocks. We are seeing more and more of them on street cars, which brings up questions like “when do you need beadlock wheels?” and “what are their advantages?” Since we are currently building a full-size truck for the track, we thought this would be an opportune time to see if we need beadlocks or not. So, instead of listening to the internet, we decided to go straight to the source. Both RC Components and Mickey Thompson deal with high-horsepower race and street cars on a daily basis, and we knew they could answer any questions we might have.
A beadlock is precisely as it sounds: a ring that bolts to the outside (and sometimes the inside with a double beadlock) of a wheel and is used to sandwich the tire’s bead between the ring and the wheel itself. This design locks the tire down and keeps the bead from rotating on the wheel when launching on a sticky surface. This is important not only to keep the bead from slipping but also to keep the bead seated. Centrifugal forces can separate the tire’s bead from the wheel at high speeds. If that were to happen, you could lose air from the tire, or in a worst-case scenario, it could come out of the seat and go flat immediately.
You might think that beadlocks originated from Top Fuel dragsters, but, that’s not the case. RJ Clutter from RC Components gave us some insight on this topic.
“Beadlocks originated in the off-road world for 4x4s due to airing down tires,” Clutter explained. “The first ones were on Dodge Military trucks called ‘combat wheels’ and were designed for quick and easy tire replacement during combat.
However, the first beadlock wheel sold for off-road use was in 1980.”
A beadlock is precisely as it sounds: a ring that bolts to the outside (and sometimes the inside with a double beadlock) of a wheel and is used to sandwich the tire’s bead between the ring and the wheel itself. You can see the wheel side on the left and the ring on the right in this image.
As racecars started going fast throughout the years, racers looked for innovative ways to secure the tire to the wheels. They found some ways to keep slippage at a minimum, but their methods were quite archaic. For example, we’ve all seen guys drill out their wheels and then use screws to hold the bead. While this method has been used for years on bias-ply tires, it’s not recommended for radials. But, more on that in a minute.
Another way to secure a tire to the wheel is with glue. While this technique can be effective, there are no guidelines on how much or what type of glue to use that we’ve found for a racing application.
Plus, who would want to deal with putting glue on a nice aluminum wheel?
It seems like 99-percent of the fast guys on the track are running beadlock wheels. And since we are building a Silverado for the street class, we wanted to know if we would need beadlocks or standard wheels.
Clutter said, “It varies from one vehicle to another, but typically around 800 horsepower is when to start looking at a single beadlock. Then anything over 1200-1300 horsepower, a double beadlock should become standard.”
RC Component’s “Retro” beadlock wheel is a throwback to the classic five-star design with a modern twist.
Since we plan to crank out 800-1,000 horsepower with the boosted truck, a single beadlock wheel is required. This brought up another question: are there any disadvantages to this locking design?
While some may be weight conscious with their racecars, we’re building a truck, and to us, and 99-percent of the fast racers out there, 12 additional pounds is a small price to pay to make sure the tire never rotates on the wheel.
With that said and all of our questions answered, we ordered a set of RC Components Retro wheels in black with a polished barrel (also called “Eclipse Prism”). But, RC Components offers other finishes for this wheel, as well. Clutter said, “The Retro wheel is available in polished finish, Eclipse finish, Eclipse Prism, and chrome finish, and of course, is proudly made in the USA.”
We went with a 15×10-inch wheel on the rear in a custom offset, which is no problem for RC Components, for our Moser Muscle Pak rear axle we had narrowed and a 17×4.5-inch front wheel. -Caption
With the wheels on the way, it was time to turn our attention to the tires; for that, we turned to the experts at Mickey Thompson and spoke with the Motorsports Director, Jason Moulton.
Bias ply tires have been around for a long time and are the defacto choice for the majority of drag racers. However, radial tires, a relatively new technology compared to bias ply, are proving to be a more efficient design, with less rolling resistance.
But our question was, which one is needed and under what circumstances?
“Generally speaking, we recommend using a bias ply tire when a racer utilizes a clutch and running a radial in an automatic.” Moulton continues, “Of course, there will always be a situation where a radial will work with a stick-shifted car, but that will depend on the power level and how you drive it. But for most applications, the bias ply tire is more forgiving on the driveline when you drop the clutch.”
At this point, we knew that a radial was the way to go with the tire selection for the truck because it’s an automatic — a TCI Th500, to be exact. And since it will see limited street duties, like cruises and to and from the track, the radial made even more sense.
“When you’re on the street, the drivability and handling of radial is the best choice,” Moulton confirmed. “When you put the radial on the track, the radial can always be quicker than the bias ply due to less rolling resistance.
”
Of course, by now, we already had a set of RC Components beadlock wheels on the way, but we wanted to get Mr. Moulton’s input on our tire and wheel combination while we had him on the line. So, we asked him about securing the tires to the wheels, which unraveled a significant bit of information. He said, “We tell people to mark the tire and wheel, and if the marks move a considerable amount [at once] or continually pass after pass, it’s time to get beadlocks. At that point, you’re getting enough traction out of the tire that something has to give.”
As we mentioned before, radial tires don’t absorb as much power as a bias ply, making them quicker. A Top Fuel racecar, for instance, uses bias ply tires – you can see how much energy is absorbed as these monsters wad the tires up on launch in. the image below. A radial has a much stiffer sidewall that doesn’t flex like the bias ply. Ultimately, this is why it’s a horrible idea to use screws to hold a radial tire to the wheel.
“When you screw a bias ply tire to a wheel, the sidewall will absorb a lot of energy, so it’s not putting that much stress on the bead and trying to rotate it on the wheel,” Moulton explained. “On a radial, there’s so much energy at the bead that the screw can’t hold it. So as it rotates, the screw acts like a knife and cuts the plies right off the bead, which is catastrophic.”
While this series of unfortunate events sounds terrible, it’s much worse than you might think. This problem doesn’t usually occur during the launch at low speed but rather at high speed. Moulton said, “This failure typically transpires at the top end of the racetrack when the driver lets off the gas, which is the worst possible scenario. So we never, ever recommend rim screws.”
So if your buddy is thinking about rim screws and radials, be sure to talk him out of it. The company even has a technical bulletin on this subject if you need more help to persuade them toward a beadlock wheel.
The radial selection for our truck was a simple one — we needed a high-performance radial that is D.O.T. legal, which led us to Mickey Thompson’s ET Street R for the rear. “The ET Street R is a race tire that you can drive on the street, obviously under dry conditions only,” Moulton explained. “This tire uses the same technology and compound used in our ET Street Radial Pros. So the ET Street R is a race-bred tire that is a competent street tire, as well.”
ET Street R Specs:
Jeremy Nichols of 4 Wheel Performance mated our RC Components wheels and Mickey Thompson tires.
Initially, we opted for 15-inch wheels on the truck’s rear and 17-inch for the front because we like the look. However, there are some performance advantages to doing a 15-inch tire and wheel combination on the back for added consistency at the track.
Moulton said, “by adding section height (a taller sidewall) to the rear tires, you’re allowing the sidewall to absorb more energy, even though it’s a radial. But, it also depends on the horsepower level. If you have a 14-second car, you’re not going to see a difference. But, if you have an 8-second vehicle, there’s definitely a chance you can see the difference between the two tires.”
After a couple of weeks, we had our custom-offset RC Components wheels in hand and a set of Mickey Thompson tires. For the rear, we went with a 275/60/15 ET Street Rs and up front, we chose Sportsman S/R tires in 28/6.00R/17. We loaded the new combination up and headed to our good friends over at 4 Wheel Performance for mounting and balancing. Jeremy Nichols mated the pairs together for us before balancing them. The most cumbersome part of the process was torquing the beadlocks down on the rear wheels. It isn’t a big deal, it just takes some time to get all of the bolts torqued.
We went with Mickey Thompson 275/60/15 ET Street Rs on the rear and Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R tires in 28/6.00R/17, filling the fender wells nicely.
With the tires and wheels back home, it was time to utilize the five-lug swap that we had just done a few weeks earlier. So we mounted the tires and wheels on the Silverado and torqued the RC Components lug nuts before setting the truck back on the ground. And I have to admit, I will go out of my way to walk by the Silverado with its new package, which in my honest opinion, looks killer. Now, if we can just finish this truck and get to the track, that would be fantastic!
Simple tire models do not require additional attention. They can be installed on disks literally without looking: the side and direction are not required. But many people ride tires more difficult.
Tire fitting is a seemingly simple procedure: masters usually work quickly and automatically.
The human factor, however, cannot be avoided, and mistakes do happen. To check if everything was done correctly, it is important to know a couple of nuances on the tire topic.
Simple tire models do not require additional attention. They can be installed on disks literally without looking: the side and direction are not required. They have a symmetrical tread pattern that rows equally effectively in both directions. Additional markings on the sidewalls of such rubber are not provided. Complete wheels with similar tires can be changed without hesitation: front with rear, left with right, even diagonally.
Tires with directional tread patterns require respect for the direction of rotation. You can recognize them by marking Rotation (“direction”) and an arrow in the right direction on the side surface. Put it the other way around, and the tires will pull water toward the center of the tread instead of escaping it from there.
An error will give an increased noise level when driving. Being mounted on discs, directional tires allow you to change wheels during seasonal changing shoes only within one side of the body - front and rear.
Asymmetric models are less common. Their tread has a different pattern on the left and right sides. In order not to confuse, there are clues - the words Inside and Outside on the sidewalls, indicating the inside and outside, respectively. When installed correctly, the driver should only see the Outside marking. Wheels with asymmetric rubber assemblies can be changed as you like: the tire is already put on the rim with the correct side.
Car owners often notice that tires with an asymmetric tread pattern are also directional. Such models are in the line of almost every tire manufacturer. Here is a typical example: Continental ContiCrossContact™ UHP.
They have an asymmetric tread pattern and matching Inside and Outside markings. However, when you install the wheels according to these markings, you can see that on one side the herringbone of the tread is directed upwards, and on the other - downwards. If there are no markings indicating the direction of rotation of the tire, then it can rotate in any direction. So there is nothing wrong with that, the manufacturer assures.
Continental ContiCrossContact™ UHP tires
There are exceptions, however, with asymmetric, directional patterns and Inside/Outside and Left/Right markings. When mounting these tires, double attention is required: you need to observe both the direction and the side at the same time. Such tires can be placed strictly on the left or right. But such models are very rare.
Let's recap! If we discard the exclusive in the form of asymmetrically directional rubber, asymmetric and directional ones remain separately.The former require attention when mounted on discs, and then they can be rearranged by car without hesitation. The second ones are also assembled, looking at the picture, but then the motorist himself must take into account the features of the model when changing shoes and not change the wheels of the left and right sides in places.
Like this article? Subscribe and stay up to date!
Driving in Zen
Beadlock rims are a highly specialized jeep accessory. They allow you to ride on low-pressure tires without the threat of stripping. Wheels of this design are often used by trophists. Sometimes these discs can be seen on military vehicles. Let's take a closer look at the representatives of the bedlock family.
Any experienced jeeper knows that tires are lowered for better off-road performance and smoothness.
Thus, the contact area of the tire with the surface is increased. This technique is great for overcoming swampy terrain, sand, snow. However, it is worth remembering that only diametral tires are suitable for driving at low pressure. But no matter how strong and flexible a tire is, at low pressure, one wrong move is enough to disassemble the wheel. This is where the beadlock disks come to the rescue.
Despite the fact that beadlocks are a rather specific and exclusively off-road product, manufacturers of off-road accessories offer a fairly wide range. Let's verify this with specific examples.
TrailReady
The TrailReady brand produces various off-road rims, including beadlock rims (HD series). Available in various sizes and radii. The beadlock is made of 6061-T6 aluminum alloy using a special technology that allows it to withstand heavy loads.
Rock Monster Wheels
The main feature of these wheels is the DOT certificate.
This means that these discs are suitable for use on public roads. In addition, the Rock Monster Wheels brand is owned by Hutchinson, which is known for its legendary beadlock military collapsible wheels (read more below).
Another advantage of these wheels is a simple and reliable design that allows you to install the tire on the rim even in the field. Speaking about reliability, it is also worth noting the presence of an internal beadlock. That is, the tire is fixed not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
Hutchinson
Hutchinson double beadlock military wheels boast not only incredible reliability, but also brutal appearance. It is these wheels that are installed on the famous 6-wheel pickup truck Mercedes-Benz G63 AMG 6x6. The discs are collapsible and can be used with RunFlat tires (tires that allow you to keep moving even with a complete loss of pressure, such as a puncture).
ATX Wheels
In 2014, ATX Wheels introduced the AX757 Chamber Pro II.
The disc is made of A356-T6 aluminum alloy, and the beadlock is made of 6061-T6 alloy. Reliable and stylish wheels. Available in 17x9.
KMC Wheels
KMC offers an Enduro model from the XD series. Discs are actively used in motorsport, which, in fact, prove their reliability. Made of aluminum alloy A356-T6. The bedlock is made of 6061-T6 alloy and is attached to the disc with 35 bolts. Like previous models, the KMC bedlock has special vertical ribs that securely fix the tire and prevent it from slipping. Available in 17" size.
Weld Racing
Wheels designed in the USA. Their production is also established there. Here is the Rekon B57, available in 17x9.
Weld Racing notes that the disc is a one-piece construction for maximum strength at minimum weight. The bedlock is attached to the disc with 32 bolts. Nano-ceramic coating protects discs from scratches and chips, and also makes it easy to clean the wheels after active off-road rides.
Wheels fit tires up to 40 inches. Rated load per disc is 2600 lbs (1180 kg). The model is compatible with SUVs Jeep JK, Ford, GM, Dodge.
B.A.D. Wheels
Wheels designed from the ground up specifically for off-road enthusiasts. There are special holes on the beadlock for attaching additional accessories. Made in the USA. Rated disc load is 3,500 pounds (1,560 kg).
Ultra Wheel
Ultra Wheel offers the X101 Forged Xtreme beadlock disc. Available in size 17x9. The bedlock is attached to the disc with 24 bolts. These discs are made from high quality materials, and the reliability of Ultra Wheel products has been repeatedly confirmed by the owner of this company, Jim Smith. He has won numerous Baja 1000 and NASCAR Craftsman Truck Series competitions using his products.
OMF Performance
OMF Rock Lite discs are specially designed to minimize damage to the beadlock bolts.
They have a unique design and look aggressive. Produced in the USA.
Trail-Gear
Trail-Gear's Creeper Locks feature a sectional beadlock. The advantages of this design are greater strength and increased thickness. In addition, if one section is damaged, you can replace it with a new one, while a one-piece bedlock will require a complete replacement.
Walker Evans Racing
Available in 15", 17" and 20" radii. Both cast and forged wheels are available. It is possible to make wheels to order, which allows the buyer to choose the appropriate bolt pattern and offset. In general, everything is done in order to please the maximum number of customers.
Raceline Wheels
Raceline's high strength RT-232 Monster aluminum wheels are available in 15x8, 17x8.5, 17x9.5 sizes for most bolt patterns. The bedlock is attached with 32 bolts. Each bolt is recessed as much as possible into the plate to protect against damage.
