Delivery options and delivery speeds may vary for different locations
Sign In
or enter a zip code
Email * Password *
REPAIR & HOW TO
MAINTENANCE
TROUBLESHOOTING
GUIDES
TIPS & TRICKS
ALL ARTICLES WATCH VIDEOS ABOUT US SHOP PARTS CONTACT US
The punishment the front wheel bearings on a Yamaha Grizzly 700 are subjected to means they need frequent replacing.
If you regularly push your Grizzly anywhere near its limit, this is a job you might want to learn how to do yourself.
We're working with a 2007 Yamaha Grizzly YFM700 in this guide, but the steps are very similar for most models and brands of ATV and UTV. Before you start, familiarize yourself with this exploded parts diagram that shows how the front knuckle and wheel bearing on a YFM700 fit together.
Tools and Parts Needed: Yamaha YFM700 Front Wheel Bearing ChangeToolsStep 1. Remove the cover from the axle nut, and take the nut itself off the axle. Use a punch to relieve where the axle nut is bent against the axle to secure it.
Step 2. Remove the two caliper bolts, and take the brake caliper off the steering knuckle assembly. Rest the caliper somewhere out of the way, and secure it in place with a cable tie if necessary. With the caliper off, the hub and brake disc assembly can also be removed.
Step 3. Remove the cotter pin and retaining nut from the steering arm. Use a dead-blow hammer to break the steering arm joint free from the knuckle if necessary.
Step 4. Remove the cotter pin and retaining nut from the upper control arm. If necessary, use a hammer and punch to break the upper ball joint free from the knuckle.
Step 5. Remove the cotter pin and retaining nut from the lower control arm. Use a hammer to break the lower ball joint free from the knuckle if necessary.
Step 6. Pull the steering knuckle assembly off the axle, and remove the wheel guard from the knuckle.
Step 7. Remove the retaining circlip from the steering knuckle with circlip pliers to expose the wheel bearing.
Step 8. Put the steering knuckle in a press with a large socket (or something similar) against the inside of the wheel bearing, and a piece of pipe (or something similar) against the outside of the knuckle. Press the bearing down and out from the knuckle.
Step 9. Set the pipe (or something similar) against the inside of the knuckle and a socket (or something similar) against the outside of the bearing, and press the new bearing into the steering knuckle. Continue to press the new bearing into the knuckle until you hear and feel it bottom out within its housing.
Step 10. Replace the retaining circlip over the new wheel bearing, and reinstall the wheel guard onto the steering knuckle.
Step 11. Grease the axle and axle splines, and reinstall the steering knuckle over the axle.
Step 12. Reconnect the lower ball joint, and tighten the nut to 22-foot pounds. Replace the cotter pin.
Step 13. Reconnect the upper ball joint, and tighten the nut to 18-foot pounds. Replace the cotter pin.
Step 14. Reconnect the steering arm ball joint, and tighten the nut to 18-foot pounds. Replace the cotter pin.
Step 15. Reinstall the hub and brake disc assembly, then install and finger-tighten a new axle nut and reinstall the brake caliper. Tighten the caliper bolts to 22-foot pounds.
Step 16. Tighten the axle nut to 190-foot pounds, and use a punch to secure the new axle nut against the axle. Replace the axle nut cover.
body
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top
01/09/2017
As you know, wheel bearings on ATVs are, so to speak, consumables. The reason for this is the constant operation in difficult conditions, namely in water, mud, swamps. You can replace wheel bearings at home, having a set of tools, a mount and a vise. We give instructions for replacing the front wheel bearings using the 2012 Yamaha Grizzly 450 ATV as an example.
To simplify the search for the necessary parts, we will provide a diagram and part numbers:
- Numbers 18.45 on the diagram - wheel bearing, you need 2 pieces per hub (Art. 93306-006Y2-00)
- Numbers 19.46 on the diagram - steering knuckle oil seal on hub side, 1 pc per knuckle
(Art. No. 93106-38046-00)
- Numbers 20, 47 on the diagram - steering knuckle oil seal on drive side, 1 pc per knuckle
(Art. 93106) -38047-00)
- Numbers 21, 48 in the diagram - a spacer between the bearings, does not need to be replaced. (Art. 90387-30008-00)
ATV suspension parts manufacturer All Balls has a wheel bearing replacement kit that includes everything you need (2 bearings, 2 oil seals). It also has a third oil seal, but it is designed for other equipment, as the kit is also suitable for other models of Japanese ATVs. (Art. 25-1108).
Let's describe the disassembly process step by step:
After the knuckle has been completely freed from the old oil seals and bearings, it is necessary to wipe its inside well so that no dirt remains. Before assembly, be sure to lubricate the surface with grease (lithol, etc.).
Assembly process:
This completes the process of replacing the front wheel bearings on the Yamaha Grizzly 450 ATV. For convenience, the work was carried out in pairs.
In our store you can order the necessary spare parts for your Yamaha ATV, much in stock and on order!
Podolsk,
15 km Simferopol highway To contacts
#service #enduro #motocross
4 years ago
Wheel bearings are replaced in pairs when at least one fails. Wear is determined by wheel play under axial or radial loads. The service life of a bearing depends not only on the quality of workmanship and the presence of anthers, but also on timely maintenance. The replacement procedure is simple, and with a special tool it is very simple. Below are some points and subtleties of the process, as well as a detailed video of replacing the front wheel bearings on the Yamaha WR450F.
It is advisable to periodically, when removing the wheel, check the condition of the bearings and apply additional grease. If there is rust, it is better to clean and lubricate the bearing. After passing the fords and driving through deep puddles, the bearing will surely rust.
When removing the bearings, it is enough to move the spacer and knock the bearing out with an impact screwdriver from the inside. If the bushing is firmly fixed, it can be loosened by hitting the inner race of one of the bearings.
The bearing can be knocked out very easily with a reverse hammer. An anchor bolt can be used instead of a hammer.