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How to remove trans cable from honda atv 650 ricon


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FourTrax Rincon - Automatic ATV

FourTrax Rincon - Automatic ATV - Honda
  • 2023
  • 2022
  • OVERVIEW
  • GALLERY
  • TRIMS
  • FEATURES
  • SPECIFICATIONS
  • ACCESSORIES

BUILD

BUILD

UNCOMPROMISING COMFORT

If there were a trophy for the most comfortable ATV in anybody’s line, the Honda Rincon would be a shoo in. It all starts with the liquid-cooled 675cc single-cylinder engine—the largest engine in our entire ATV lineup. But what really sets the Rincon apart is its class-leading comfort. We’ve given it long-travel suspension, and both the front and rear are fully independent systems. A smooth-shifting fully automatic transmission, and the Rincon’s longitudinal engine layout get the power to the ground, as does our selectable TraxLok® four-wheel-drive system. Tough bodywork, rugged racks, and typical Honda durability show that just because it treats you like royalty, it’s still rugged enough to get the job done.

Important Safety Information: Recommended for riders 16 years of age and older. Honda recommends that all ATV riders take a training course and read their owner’s manual thoroughly. Not available in California or for California use.

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GALLERY

FourTrax Rincon

FourTrax Rincon

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FourTrax Rincon

BASE MSRP $9,599

BUILD DETAILS

FEATURES

FourTrax Rincon

FourTrax Rincon

No belts to slip or clutches to wear out on the Rincon—it features an automotive-style three-speed automatic transmission just like a truck’s, so you can depend on it for both a smooth ride and years of trouble-free service.

TraxLok® lets you select either two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive. Two-wheel drive gives you lighter steering on flat ground, while four-wheel drive maximizes available traction when you need it. Choosing between them couldn't be easier, and you get the best of both worlds.

The Rincon's Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) offers two big advantages: First, it helps ensure constant tire contact with the ground for superior traction; second, it gives you an ultra-smooth ride over rough terrain, so you don't get beat up on the trail.

Compact and lighter-weight, the Rincon’s overhead-valve, semi-dry-sump design creates an engine that's shorter from top to bottom. That returns two big benefits: it enhances handling by lowering the engine's center of gravity, and it also allows for greater ground clearance.

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SPECIFICATIONS

Replacement shift cable for automatic transmission

Applicable for the following model years and bodies: 2006, 2007, GD1, GD3, GE3

  1. Raise the vehicle and make sure it is securely locked in the raised position.

  1. Remove the center console.

  1. Switch to position N.

  1. Remove the nut securing the end of the shift cable, then separate the end of the shift cable from the shift lever.

  1. Turn the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter of a turn; the retainer (C) will be located against the hole (D) in the base of the shift lever bracket. Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the base of the shift lever bracket.

  1. Remove the air cleaner housing and intake duct.

  1. Remove the lock pin (A) and control pin (B) from the control lever (C).

  1. Remove the bolts on the shift cable bracket plate (D), then remove the shift cable (E) from the shift cable bracket (F).

  1. Remove the cable mounting bracket (A) and bushing (B), then pull the cable (C) out of the passenger compartment.

  1. Thread the new cable through the hole in the bushing (D). Do not kink the drive cable.

  1. Install the cable mounting bracket to the body, then install the bushing.

  1. Apply molybdenum grease to the polyacetate resin reaming hole (A) at the end of the shift cable (B), and attach the end of the shift cable to the control lever (C). Insert the control pin (D) through the hole in the control lever (E), through the end hole of the shift cable and into the groove on the control lever (F) in the direction shown. Push the control pin until its flange (G) contacts the surface of the control lever.

  1. Insert the cotter pin (H) in the direction shown through the hole in the control pin and through the hole (I) in the control lever so that the bent end (J) of the cotter pin hooks into the recessed hole (K) in the control pin.

  1. Attach the shift cable bracket plate (A) to the shift cable bracket (B) with bolts.

  1. Turn the ignition to the ON (II) position and check that the N position indicator is on.

  1. If necessary, tighten the cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the cable back two notches to move the selector to position N. Do not act on the shift cable while holding the guide (B) of the shift cable.

  1. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.

  1. Move the shift lever to position N.

  1. Insert a 6. 0mm pin (A) through the locating holes (B) (C) in the base of the shift lever bracket and the shift lever itself, and through the locating hole (D) in the base of the shift lever bracket. The shift lever is fixed in the N position.

  1. Align the protrusion (A) on the release cable holder (B) with the notch on the bracket (C), and slide the holder into the slot. Install the engagement cable (D) onto the pin (E), aligning the rectangular hole (F) with the rectangular protrusion (G) at the base of the pin. Turn the retainer a quarter of a turn to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H).

  1. Make sure the tip of the shift cable is securely installed on the adjusting pin.

  1. If installed incorrectly, remove the shift cable from the base of the shift lever bracket and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable lug on the locating pin while the cable cable is on the shift lever bracket cover.

  1. Install and tighten the nut.

  1. Remove the 6.0mm pin (A) that was installed to hold the shift lever.

  1. Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position and move the lever to each position. Check that the automatic transmission gear position indicator matches the position of the transmission gear selector.

  1. Start the engine and check the shift cable adjustment with the brake pedal depressed.

  1. Press the shift lock stopper and make sure the shift lever is released and check that it locks when engaged in the P position.

  1. Reinstall the center console.

  1. Install the air cleaner housing and intake duct.

Replacing the throttle and clutch cables, as well as the rear shock absorbers on a 1999 Honda CB400 SF motorcycle

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  2. ArticlesDIY 99

Spring is coming, and it's time to carry out seasonal maintenance of your motorcycles. Let's make a reservation right away that, in our opinion, the best way is to give your motorcycle to a proven service, where professionals will carry out the work, and in the meantime you will work or relax. But if there is time and desire, then simple work can be done independently.

These include the replacement of the clutch cable, throttle cables and, in our case, the rear shock absorbers for the Honda CB400.

We decided to start with the replacement of clutch cable and two throttle cables - forward and reverse, since over 10 years of operation, the relatives were fairly stretched and did not provide the proper clarity of work.

To get to them, you need to remove the tank, to do this, remove the saddle and, at the same time, the side plastic covers with a hexagon for five, then with a twelve key, unscrew the gas tank mounting bolt, raise the tank and remove four pipes: two from the 9029 side2 gas taps , two more from the side of the saddle, nothing will flow from them, since the gas tap for the Honda CB400 is closed by default. Do not forget to remove the fuel gauge on the right from the connector and safely remove the tank.

Using a flat screwdriver, release the cable from the clutch machine, on the clutch housing, unscrew the other end from the holder with a ten key and remove the old cable. We start a new one and assemble it in the reverse order. The squeeze can be adjusted on the machine and a regulator with two nuts on the other end.

To remove throttle cables , we disassemble the right remote control and remove the engine “kill” button from one of the halves of the body, after unscrewing it, we release cables from the plastic holder on the throttle handle. To free them from the other side, we had to remove the carburetors - and it's easier than it seems) The only inconvenience was delivered by the rubber pipes of the carburetors, which had become hardened from old age, which should be sprayed liberally with silicone grease at the very beginning of work. So, unscrew the air filter housing from the frame (two screws) and move it as far back as possible. We loosen the clamps on the carburetors, pull them to the air filter housing and take them out to the left side in the direction of travel. Now have access to to cables . We release them, carry out new ones and put the carburetors in place. We assemble in reverse order. We remove the throttle from the steering wheel, start the cables, and return the throttle to its place. We assemble the remote control, adjust the stroke of the throttle handle at both ends of the cable.

As long as there is access to the air filter, we also change it. We put the tank in place and fasten the side plastic covers, put the saddle in place.

On our moto, the rear shock absorbers leaked out quite a while ago and replacing them was a long-planned procedure. With their replacement, there is only one difficulty - this is to hang the rear axle of the motorcycle. We hung it from a ceiling beam in the garage, but a couple of tough friends might well come to the rescue. For convenience, we remove the muffler - two nuts for ten. We loosen the fastening of the rear shock absorbers, the hexagon is six on top and the key is twelve on the bottom. We raise the motorcycle, remove shock absorbers , put new ones, assemble.

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