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You’re railing that descent, nailing every line and feeling like a world champ, when suddenly you smash a wheel into a big square-edge rock. Quite literally, you can feel the air go out of the ride. Not much kills the stoke from a great spin quicker than a flat tire. This is why tubeless tires are increasingly popular for all kinds of cycling. These setups use a liquid sealant instead of an inner tube to hold air. As a result, they offer better protection against all kinds of flats and enable you to run lower pressures than tube-type systems, increasing traction and creating a more comfortable ride. In the event you do get a puncture, tubeless tires are also more likely to stay attached to the rim, which is safer.
But ask most riders about going tubeless and you’ll encounter a litany of horror stories about setup. Why are some tubeless installs easy and others a multi-hour thrash session punctuated by merchant-marine levels of cursing? In short: manufacturing standards and tolerances. Wheels and tires from different brands vary ever so slightly in actual size, so a tire that fits great on one wheel is an overly tight nightmare on another. The good news is that this is slowly improving. Because manufacturing standards are getting better, with stricter tolerances, it’s now much more likely than even five years ago that you’ll be able to install and seat tubeless tires on the first try with a standard floor pump. Here’s a step-by-step guide.
For rims, it means that the rim bed is sealed against air loss (either by being solid material or through the addition of airtight rim tape), and that the bead lock has a tubeless-ready cross section.You’ll need tubeless-compatible or tubeless-ready wheels to start. This is governed by the rim profile itself (see the glossary, above). Most gravel and mountain-bike wheels these days are compatible; road bikes are not always so. But in any case, check manufacturer specs.
A warning: Do not under any circumstances try to make a wheel that is not listed as tubeless compatible into a tubeless system.
If you’re lucky, all that will happen is the tire will blow off the rim in your garage and spray sealant everywhere. If you’re not lucky, the tire will hold just long enough for you to go on a ride, and then it will blow off, likely causing a crash. The same goes for tires: the bead on non-tubeless-ready tires will not hold securely in the bead lock and can blow off without warning.
Many higher-end wheelsets are tubeless ready right out of the box. For others listed as tubeless compatible, you’ll need to seal the rim bed (namely the spoke holes) with airtight tape. Good brands are Silca, Stan’s NoTubes, and WTB. You’ll need to match the tape width to your rim width.
This special elixir typically features very small solid particles of rubber or latex in a liquid suspension. When you’re riding, the particles slosh around the inside of the tire, where they find and plug small leaks. Good bets are Muc-Off, Orange Seal, and Stan’s.
Buy an 8-to-16-ounce bottle. Sealant doesn’t dry out in the bottle over time like it does in tires, and you may want some extra in case the initial installation doesn’t go smoothly. Some bottles of sealant come with a measuring cup; if yours doesn’t, you’ll need a cup that has measurement markings in ounces.
Tubeless tires use special valve stems that create an airtight seal on the inside of the rim bed to prevent air loss. The rubber grommet that forms the seal sometimes has to be matched to the profile of your wheel’s rim bed (so-called universal valves claim to work with almost any system). The best valves have removable cores. Industry Nine, Muc-Off, and Stan’s make good universal valves with removable cores.
The sealant’s job is to plug holes, but it won’t seal a non-tubeless tire. More important: non-tubeless tires don’t have the specially shaped bead to lock to the rim. We’ll steer clear of recommendations here. Tires are personal and, for gravel and mountain-bike riding especially, the best choices are highly geography- and conditions-specific.
Ask around for what others in your area use and trust.
You’ll need a floor pump, sturdy plastic tire levers, a valve-core remover (a very small and inexpensive wrench), a clean rag, a small paintbrush, some rubbing alcohol, and an old cup for soapy water.
These are big syringe-like devices that install the sealant directly through the valve stem. They’re fairly affordable ($10 to $30) and long-lasting. They’re also easy to use and much less likely to spill than the simple plastic measuring cup that comes with most bottles of sealant. Some have a needlelike attachment that can also be used to pull sealant back out of tires—useful if you’re swapping tires or want to store a bike for winter without letting the sealant congeal. Stan’s makes a basic system, but I prefer the KOM or Mil-Kit versions (note: Mil-Kit’s system is more expensive but comes with universal valve stems).
These are basically reusable air chambers that you pressurize with a floor pump, then place over the valve stem and use to inflate the tire quickly.
They’re helpful because seating tubeless tire beads to the rim often requires a high volume of air delivered fast, and floor pumps can struggle to do that. Brands include Airshot, Mil-Kit, and Specialized. But these items are designed for one task only, which may not justify the price ($50 to $100) if you use them rarely. If you’re only installing tubeless tires on rare occasions, you can also use a conventional CO2 inflator system to seat beads. Many people use standard air compressors of the sort you need for home-improvement projects.
Tools: Rag, rubbing alcohol
Whether you’re working with new wheels or ones you’re converting, make sure they’re clean. Dip a rag in rubbing alcohol, and thoroughly wipe down the rim bed, rim tape, and internal sidewalls. Pay special attention to removing any debris from the bead hook, where the tire will seat.
Check to ensure that the tape is even and tight, with no wrinkles or gaps that could leak air. Wipe dry.
Tools: Tire lever, floor pump, tube
That’s right: use a tube first. Why? It’s an easy way to get at least one of the tire beads firmly seated to the bead lock and to work out the kinks in a tire bead after it’s sat folded in storage.
Unfold the new tire, and seat one side in the rim bed. Many tires, especially mountain-bike tires, are directional or even front- or rear-specific; check to make sure it’s in the proper orientation before installing. Tip: line up the center of the tire logo over the valve stem, as this can make it easier to find and fix leaks on rides.
Inflate an inner tube just enough that it holds shape. Insert the valve in the rim’s valve hole, and tuck the tube into the tire. Finally, deflate the tube a bit, and install the other side of the tire. The bead will likely be tight in the last quarter or so.
Use a tire lever, and carefully lift the bead into the rim well, taking care not to pinch the tube between the tire and rim. Once seated, push the tire bead toward the center of the rim bed, and visually check to make sure the tube isn’t pinched.
Inflate the tire, stopping at about 20 psi to make sure that the tire bead isn’t bulging out over the rim in any location. Resume pumping to a few psi short of the maximum inflation listed on the tire sidewall. You’ll hear some snaps and pops. This is normal; it’s the tire bead seating in the rim lock. Finally, set the wheel in a warm, sunny location for 15 to 20 minutes. The heat softens the kinks in the tire bead, and—if you’re setting up wheels for tubeless for the first time—helps ensure that the rim tape’s adhesive is fully bonded to the rim and won’t leak.
Tools: Tire lever
Take the wheel out of the sun, and let it cool back to room temperature.
Deflate the tire. Carefully push only one side of the tire into the rim bed, then use the tire lever to lift that bead off the rim. Remove the tube, leaving the other tire bead seated in the rim.
Install the tubeless valve by threading the knurled nut as tightly as it’ll go with your fingers. Don’t use a wrench or pliers; overtightening could crack the rubber gasket on the valve stem and cause a leak. Make sure the valve you’re using fits the rim-bed profile (see “What to Buy,” above). A poor fit could leak.
Tools: Tire lever, tire sealant, measuring cup or injector, valve-core remover
If you’re using a sealant-injector system: Reinstall the loose tire bead, taking care not to dislodge the bead on the other side of the tire. Use the valve-core remover to unthread the core counterclockwise, then remove it and set it aside.
Shake the sealant bottle for 10 to 20 seconds to thoroughly mix its contents, then measure out the appropriate amount for your tire size into the injector chamber:
Two ounces for road tires (up to about 28 millimeters)
Three ounces for 700c gravel or 27.5 mountain tires
Three to four ounces for most 29er mountain tires
Five to six ounces for plus-size mountain-bike tires
Seat the injector securely on the valve stem (or push the needle fitting through the valve stem), and then carefully inject the sealant into the tire. Reinstall the valve core.
If you’re just using a sealant cup: Don’t worry about removing the valve core, since you’re not using it to add sealant. Reinstall the loose tire bead, but leave a final section unmounted. Prop up the wheel with this section closest to the ground but the opening tilted upward to prevent spillage.
Shake the sealant bottle for 10 to 20 seconds to thoroughly mix its contents, then pour the appropriate amount into the cup, and carefully pour that directly into the tire at the unmounted section. Grab the wheel and gently rotate the unmounted section up to 12 o’clock, so that the sealant flows into a fully mounted section of the tire where it’s less likely to leak out, and wrestle the final section of tire bead onto the rim (you may need the tire lever).
Tools: Floor pump, soapy water, small paintbrush
Seating tubeless tires takes a lot of air rushing into the tire very fast to seat the tire bead into the rim lock. You might be able to do this with a floor pump, but you may need a higher-volume air source.
Take the paintbrush and dip it in the soapy water, then run it along the tire sidewall where the loose tire bead and rim bead lock meet.
The soapy water helps the tire bead slip into place more easily.
If you’re using a floor pump: Because you’ve already seated one side of the bead, you may be able to inflate the tire with a floor pump. It takes some effort and maybe a little luck. First, thread the wheel skewer or axle through the hub—that provides something to grab as you spin the wheel to disperse sealant. Then firmly seat the pump chuck on the valve stem (making sure the stem core is fully open), and pump full strokes as fast as you can to get the installed but unseated tire bead into the rim’s bead lock. Again, you’ll hear those telltale snaps and pops. If you hear that, keep pumping! Pump to a few psi short of the maximum inflation listed on the tire sidewall. Quickly remove the pump chuck, grab the quick-release lever on the wheel skewer or axle, and spin the wheel for a minute or so, rotating the axis back and forth. This helps distribute the sealant evenly inside the tire. If you see sealant spraying out anywhere for more than a few seconds, stop; the tire’s not fully seated.
Also: if you are pumping quickly for at least 30 seconds but the tire won’t hold any air, stop; the tire likely won’t seat with just a floor pump.
Secondary protocol: If you can’t get the tire bead to fully lock in the rim, you’ll need a higher volume of air delivered faster. This is where the CO2 cartridge inflator you normally use for trailside-flat repairs comes in or the special tubeless-inflation systems we mentioned above. Another option is a pump with integrated booster chambers, like the Bontrager TLR Flash Charger or the Topeak JoeBlow Booster, although these get mixed reviews.
In any case, the process is basically the same with a booster or combo pump: charge the booster chamber, securely fasten the inflator chuck around the valve stem, then release the air into the tire. If you’re using a CO2 inflator, use the largest cartridge you can find for mountain tires (up to 20 grams). If the CO2 cartridge successfully seats the bead, it may still not be at the full pressure needed to ensure a complete seal to the system.
Remove the inflator, and switch to the floor pump, topping off the pressure to a little less than the listed maximum sidewall pressure.
Something to consider: stand-alone tubeless boosters cost $50 or more. Booster and pump combos cost $120. Pancake-style air compressors start at $99, plus $30 or so for a Presta attachment.
Whichever method you use, once the tire seats, grab the wheel by the quick-release or through-axle lever, and spin it to disperse the sealant inside. Success? Awesome. Check for obvious sealant leaks at the sidewall and valve stem. If you don’t see any, install the wheel on the bike, and ride slowly around the neighborhood—this helps the sealant foam and plug any microscopic hole in the system. Leave the tire inflated at the higher pressure, which helps ensure that the tire stays sealed.
If this process didn’t work, the problem may not be something you can fix at home. In that case, we recommend going to a shop.
It’s pretty rare to get a flat tire when you have a tubeless setup.
The sealant inside your tires will quickly seal small holes and cuts to keep you rolling on the road or trail. However, flats are always possible – even with tubeless. Whether you’ve discovered your tire is flat after storing it in the garage, or you lose pressure after a sudden impact with a rock, we have you covered with the tips you need. Check out our guide to fixing your tubeless flat and getting back out on your ride.
You also might need:
Check out this video to learn how to use tire plugs.
If you make sure you shift into the smallest ring on the cassette, it should make this easier. Then, remove the axle or loosen the quick release (but don't remove the nut!), pull the derailleur back and out of the way, and pull your wheel straight up and out of the dropouts.
(You may also do this with just one tire lever)PRO TIP: Opt for plastic tire levers over metal ones. They won’t scratch the surface of your rim and they are lighter and easier to carry!
PRO TIP: If the last bit is super tight, start back at the top and use your hands to wiggle the tire into the center of the rim. Just like you did at the beginning to loosen the bead from the rim, this creates extra slack in the tire and will make it easier to get onto the rim. While you wiggle the tire push down. When you get to the bottom, you might be able to pop that tire on with your bare hands!
The trick is to keep pumping until you hear a “pop” which means the tire has seeded into the rim.How to Choose the Right Saddle
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The Importance of Proper Bike Fit
How to Prep Your Bike for Riding in the Rain
How to Replace Disc Brake Pads and Rotors
How to Cut MTB Handlebars
Trailside Bike Repair Fix Guide
How to Setup Tubeless Tires
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Removing and Reinstalling a Bike Wheel for Transport
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Once you get the hang of fitting tubeless tires, you can change them almost as easily as tube tires.
Tires are one of the most important factors in determining how a bike feels and behaves. Not only do they make a huge difference when it comes to performance, but they are also an inexpensive way to upgrade. The right tires can provide more comfort, more speed, and more puncture protection, and tubeless tires take this concept even further. Switching to better tubeless road tires can result in lower rolling resistance, fewer punctures, and the ability to use lower pressures for more comfort. It also means learning a new skill and understanding how to install tubeless tires.
With the right tools and an understanding of what to expect, installing tubeless tires shouldn't be difficult. Keep reading for tips and tricks for fitting tubeless tires. Very soon, you will be changing tires as easily as traditional inner tube tires.
Contents
Everything you need to install tubeless tires
When it comes to installing tubeless tires, you'll need supplies and tools.
When it comes to tools, there is good news and bad news. The good news is that you may not need all of the tools we have listed below; with the passage of time and the spread of tubeless tires, they are getting better and easier to install. Higher quality wheels, along with better tubeless road tires, are often immediately inflated with a track pump, while others may require something more powerful.
The bad news, however, is that you won't know until you try a particular tire and rim combination, so it's good to have the right tools on hand.
Tubeless tires have a very tight bead that does not stretch, making it difficult to fit on the rim in some cases. When buying levers, you need to be sure that you are getting something thin yet strong enough to work with the tire/rim interface. Look for rounded edges that will prevent damage to the rim. Some tire levers are reinforced with a steel core for added strength.
You need a way to quickly get enough air into the tire so that it sits properly on the rim.
If you win, the pressure will rise and the tire will sit correctly. To facilitate this task, you can use a floor pump, which has a built-in reservoir for charging tubeless tires. First, before inflating, you will close the charging tank, which will compress the air in the tank. You will then immediately release all the pressurized air into the tire.
If you are buying a new pump, get one that combines the pump and reservoir. If you already have a favorite pump, it is possible to purchase the tanks separately. Another option is an air compressor, which is the most convenient way when you need to use one, but be aware that most inexpensive tankless electric pumps won't work as they don't move air fast enough.
Most new wheels come already sealed, but this is not always the case. If you're having issues with a tubeless setup, it's almost always due to a tape issue. To solve this problem, we recommend re-gluing the inner rim from scratch.
Also be aware that the tape comes in different widths, so make sure you order the correct one - it's always best to use the right size rim tape, as doubling a smaller width tape isn't always smart. The translucent tape will make it easier to find the valve hole in the right place.
Again, these often come with new wheels, but not always. Make sure you buy something long enough to go through the rim and leave room for the pump mount. A little extra length won't hurt, so if you can't find the perfect length, don't be afraid to go longer.
You can get by with a pair of pliers, but it's not worth the hassle. The right tool is inexpensive and makes life a lot easier. It's a good idea to have an extra tool in your emergency kit, as valve cores can get clogged over time and you may need to fix one that's leaking slowly during your trip.
Again, you can do without it, but it's much easier if you have the right tool.
You can see instructions for pouring sealant into a tire and then trying to install, which might work, but it can be incredibly messy. Instead, use a syringe and inject the sealant through the valve stem. Some sealants come with a tube, but if you don't have one, we recommend adding one to your tool kit. The syringe is usually supplied with a valve tool and additional spools. It's also a convenient way to use just the right amount of sealant.
You probably already have these tools, but it's a good idea to prepare them. You will need scissors to cut the rim tape. A small towel will come in handy when sealing the rim. A soapy solution in a spray bottle will make life easier during installation. A small screwdriver or pen will come in handy to poke a hole in the rim tape to push the valve stem through.
A properly installed rim tape should be smooth and fill the channel.
The first thing you need to do is seal the rim. If the rim is already sealed, you don't need to seal it, but if you find you're having trouble sealing the tire, don't waste hours looking for it - just seal it.
Every time you rearrange things, there is a chance that you will open a leak in the tubeless belt. It also often happens that you seal the wheel perfectly and then make a subtle mistake when installing the valve core through the tape. If in doubt, reseal it.
Start tape about an inch before the valve hole in the wheel. You want to have enough space so that there is a good seal between the rim and the band up to the valve opening. Press the band against the rim with one hand, then pull the band out a little. Advance only as far as you feel comfortable holding the band, then gently lower it to the surface of the rim. You need to stretch the tape, and it's better to do it little by little, rather than trying to work the entire rim in one fell swoop.
After bringing the tape to the surface of the rim, hold it there.
The tape is not very strong, so it will come off the rim if you don't hold on to it. Use a cloth or gloves so that the hand that you held the beginning of the tape with can slide over the rim tape. Press firmly on the rim to help the adhesive stick and move air bubbles to the end of the glued area.
When the two hands are together, repeat what you did from the beginning. Holding the tape against the rim with one hand, you are about to pull more tape from the roll. Stretch it out to the sides of the rim, then gently pull it back and repeat the process again. Continue these two steps until you have gone all the way around the wheel. When you get back to where you started, you should put tape over the vent hole by about the same amount as you started with. Then just cut the tape.
Some people and most bike shops make two layers of tape. If the tape is not wide enough, it is necessary to completely seal the space between the tire beads. Even if the band is wide enough, this needs to be done to increase the circumference of the wheel and create a tighter seal between tire and rim, but modern tires and rims are made to tighter tolerances so this is often not necessary.
It can also make it difficult to fit the tire as it is very tight. It's one of those things you can't know until you try it. If you prefer to play it safe, then do so.
Push the valve stem through the band.
Start by locating the valve hole in the rim. This will be easier if you can see through the rim tape, but it's possible otherwise if you find a hole in the inside edge of the rim. Once you know where it is, press down on it with your fingers and you can make a small mark outlining the edge of the hole.
Once you know where it is, poke a small hole in the tape. You can use whatever you have. Hex keys, small screwdrivers, knobs, even the sharp end of a valve stem.
Remember that you want this hole to be as central and as small as possible and you don't want to damage the wheel. Any sharp object you use can cause damage, so be careful. This is combined with the fact that you don't try to open the hole completely, you just open it for the valve stem, and when the hole is ready, let the valve stem stretch it.
Once the hole is punched, push the valve stem back into place. There should be some kind of rubber seal at the base of the valve stem that presses against the hole you just pierced and with enough pressure it will seal. On the inner edge of the rim, where the valve now protrudes, you need to install a rubber seal, and then the nut that is attached to the valve stem. You don't need to tighten everything all at once, as you may need to push the rubber seal inside the tire away from the rim to get the tire into place.
The extremely tight fit means you will likely need to use spudgers to fit each side of the tire to the rim.
The process is the same as for the tube tire. Don't forget to check the direction of rotation of the tire, and remember that it's fashionable to line up the logo and name so that the valve is in the middle (this also helps to find the valve when you need to inflate the tire).
Start at the valve and insert the washer into the space between the valve and the wheel sidewall.
First on one side, then on the other. When you get to the other side, opposite the vent, things get more complicated.
The difference between a tubeless tire and a tubed tire is that the tubeless tire and the rim are closer together. Grabbing each side of a tire on a wheel is often a difficult task and the use of tire levers will most likely be necessary. To facilitate landing, moisten the edges of the tire with soapy water.
Soapy water helps everything slide. The tire will slide more easily over the tire arm and the tire arm will slide more easily between the tire and rim. Once the tire is in place, the soap solution will also help create a seal for the first inflation.
The tire should be in the center of the rim cavity but at the edges next to the valve.
The idea is to put the tire in the center of the rim. The less the tire will rise and fall from the edges, the better. However, it should be on the edges near the valve stem.
In reality, there is little you can do at this stage. Just look for obvious problems and do your best to fix them. A good way to get everything in proper condition is to roll an uninflated wheel with a tire on a carpeted floor, applying pressure on it. The pressure will help the tire sit properly in the channel.
Once you have the tire in place, make sure the valve stem nut is tight and the valve stem is in place.
If you are using a tubeless tire pump, it's time to pressurize the reservoir.
If you are using a standard pump, you need to pump quickly. If you are using a tubeless pump, then pressurize the tank before releasing the air in one shot. It's a good idea to inflate the tire, but be careful with the amount as tubeless tires and carbon wheels often have a lower maximum pressure than you'd expect.
You may or may not hear a pop as the sidewall snaps into place. This helps if the sidewall is wet and slips easily, but even then you may not hear anything.
It's a nice sound when the bead snaps into place, but if you can't hear it, it doesn't mean it didn't work.
For initial inflation it may be useful to remove the spool. However, this is not always possible because depending on the pump you have, they do not always secure effectively if there is no valve core.
Using a sealant injector is the easiest way to add sealant to a tire.
If you have time to let the tire sit, this is a good idea. Sealant should not be needed to keep air in the tire. If you have time to let the tire sit with air, you can determine if it is losing air at a reasonable rate. If you left a tubeless tire inflated overnight and returned to a flat tire the next morning, then you need to troubleshoot. This almost always means new rim tape, and it's much easier and cleaner when there's no sealant. You can also check the tightness with a soap solution.
Once you've made sure the tire is installed correctly, it's time to add sealant.
Release the air from the tire, and then unscrew the valve core.
Put some sealant into the injector and turn the tire so that the valve is not at the very bottom and not at the very top of the wheel. At the top, it can leak out of the valve, and at the bottom, the flattened tire leaves no room for sealant. Inject the sealant and install the valve core in place. Inflate the tire to the desired pressure and remove the pump. Spin the tire and give it a shake so that the sealant coats as much of the inner surface of the tire as possible.
Congratulations, you now have a tubeless tyre.
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For some, the existence of tubeless bicycle tires will be news, and it is not surprising, because they appeared relatively recently. But tubeless bicycle wheels have grown in popularity in recent years. What kind of tires are these, and what are their features? Let's figure it out.
K design of tubeless tires for bicycles
Many are accustomed to the fact that when a bicycle wheel is punctured, you first need to change the tube - such a thin rubber gut that is located under a dense tire that is in direct contact with the road surface. It is thanks to her that pressure is created between the rim and the tire, which allows the cyclist to ride comfortably. The very name "tubeless tire" suggests that there should not be any chamber under the tire. And there is. Tires in such wheels are mounted in the wheel rim in a special way, and under them there is a sealant that replaces the same chamber.
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Why are these wheels becoming more popular every day? What are the advantages of ?
But, despite the obvious advantages, tubeless tires also have some disadvantages .
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For the most part, these tires are used for mountain bikes, since it is when riding in the mountains, on rocky terrain, that the likelihood of punctures is too high. A tubeless tire will reduce the chances of a wheel puncture, and thereby save the cyclist from unscheduled stops and repairs. But among road bikers, such tires are also successful. It is quite possible that very soon they will replace aging tires with cameras.
