Tire rotation, that is routinely repositioning your vehicle’s tires in specific patterns from front to back or side to side, is an important element of tire upkeep and safety. Additionally, rotating your tires may also be required to keep your tires covered under warranty. For a quick visual summary of tire rotation, check out our Tread Life episode about tire rotation. Read on for more information about what tire rotation is, why tire rotation patterns matter, and the correct pattern for your vehicle’s needs.
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Tire rotation means periodically changing the position of each of the tires on your vehicle. You should rotate your tires as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, or every 5,000 miles. For many of you, that will mean when you get your vehicle’s oil changed.
Regularly rotating your tires also gives you a good opportunity to visually inspect them for damage, check their air pressure, have them rebalanced if you’re noticing any vibration, and check their tread depth.
There are several reasons why tire rotation is an important element of your standard tire care. First, by routinely rotating your tires, wear is spread evenly across all four tires, and their tread life is maximized. That’s because each specific position on your vehicle requires a different give from each tire—(for example, tires on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle will take a larger proportion of the torque and friction that’s needed for turning, accelerating and braking)—and can lead to more, or less, wear on the tire. It is especially important to rotate new tires by 5,000 miles because deep, fresh tire tread is more susceptible to uneven wear.
Secondly, even tread wear keeps the tread depth on your tires uniform, which can help keep traction and handling consistent across all four tires. This will improve cornering and braking performance and keep your vehicle safer for driving overall.
Finally, if your vehicle has all-wheel-drive, evenly worn tires lower the stresses on the drivetrain, reducing wear on expensive drive components.
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For winters worst
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Confident control in winter conditions
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Take control of the track
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Sleek, sporty, and cornering performance
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Keep your life on a roll
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Drive more and fill up your tank less*
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Extended mobility PLUS improved performance through the elements
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Tough enough to take a puncture*
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Ready for heavy-duty hauls
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High performance driving all year long
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Handle it all in your high performance CUV or SUV
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Take control of the track
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The tire rotation pattern that’s best for your vehicle will depend on the type of tire you’re using, whether your vehicle is front, rear, all, or four-wheel drive, whether your tires are directional or non-directional, whether or not your tires are the same size on the front and rear of your vehicle, and whether you have a full-size spare that can be rotated through as well, unlike a temporary spare.
. Let’s take a look at tire rotation patterns recommended by the standardizing body of the tire industry, The Tire and Rim Association, Inc., for all of these possibilities.
For vehicles that are rear wheel drive vehicles, the rearward cross pattern is recommended. Rear tires are moved to the forward axle and kept on the same side of the vehicle while the front tires are moved to opposite sides of the rear axle.
2. X-PATTERNRecommended for 4-wheel and all wheel drive vehicles such as light-weight trucks and sedans, all tires are moved diagonally, meaning tires are switched from one axle to the opposite as well as being repositioned from one side to the other.
3. FORWARD CROSSThis is the most common pattern for front-wheel drive vehicles. The front axle tires are moved directly back while the rear tires are moved up diagonally to the opposite side of the front axle.
In order to insure that all of the tires on your vehicle have even tread wear, you’ll want to be sure to rotate your full-size spare tire along with the other four. This is especially vital for all-wheel or 4-wheel drive vehicles where even small differences can put undue strain on your car’s drive train.
1. REARWARD CROSS (REAR-WHEEL OR 4-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES):Both rear axle tires move directly forward to the front axle while the spare tire moves to the right side of the rear axle. The right front tire moves diagonally back to the left side of the rear axle while the left front tire becomes your new spare tire.
2. FORWARD CROSS (FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES):Rear tires are moved diagonally to opposite sides on the front axle while the right front tire becomes the new spare tire. The spare tire is positioned on the right side of the rear axle while the left tire on the front axle is moved directly back into the left rear position.
All tires are switched with their same-sized partner and remain on the same axle. The two rear tires switch to the opposite side with one another while the two front tires do the same.
2. FRONT-TO-BACK (FOR DIRECTIONAL TIRES)All tires are moved from one axle to the other but remain on the same side of the vehicle. For example, the front left tire is moved to the left side of the rear axle while the rear left tire is repositioned on the left side of the front axle.
By Wayne Scraba,www.automedia.com
Rotating tires is important (and always has been) for car maintenance. If you rotate the respective wheels and tires on a given axle, tire wear is even. The result is almost always balanced traction and handling over a period of time.
Most tire warranties demand the tires be rotated on a specific mileage schedule. And many tire manufacturers recommend rotation at between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.
Tire balancing
Making each tire function in as many of the vehicle’s wheel positions as possible makes evening out tire wear feasible. Naturally, this can’t make up for tire wear caused by tired or malfunctioning mechanical components or improper inflation. When considering the mechanics of a motor vehicle, keep in mind that the front end often has a more difficult task than the rear. For example, in a front-wheel-drive car, the tires are tasked with steering, stopping, moving up and down, and, of course, pulling the vehicle forward. In a high-performance rear-wheel-drive car, you’ll likely find that the rear tires take more abuse than the front. Four-by-four vehicles and all-wheel-drive models bring their own tire wear peculiarities to the party. The bottom line: No matter what the car or truck, the wheel position can cause different rates and types of wear on a tire.
Replacing four versus two
As a tire wears, the tread depth is reduced. If all four tires wear out at more or less the same time, you can replace four tires at once. This is actually advantageous when compared to replacing tires in pairs, simply because you’ll always have equal fresh rubber on all four corners. Additionally, you have to consider that the manufacturers are constantly releasing new and improved tire configurations. The result is that your old tires could become obsolete by the time they’re worn. If replacing only two at once, there’s a good chance you’ll end up with mixed tire technology that could negatively affect how your vehicle drives.
Tire rotation pattern
So far so good, but tire rotation isn’t anything like it was a few decades ago. Way back when, most cars had identical wheels and tires on all four corners, and the spare was also a full-size job that matched the road wheels. That’s a difficult combination to find today, with space-saver spares, spare tires mounted on dedicated steel wheels (with the rest of the rolling stock on aluminum wheels), different wheel offsets and sizes front and rear, mixed tire sizes, and so on.
Because of this, the rotation process differs. Here’s a look at some of the many different tire rotation pattern options.
Four same-size tires, non-directional
If the tires are non-directional and the tires and wheels are all the same size, there are three different four-tire rotation patterns most commonly used:
The right front goes to left rear.Different-size directional tires, or different offsets
What if the vehicle in question has different-size directional wheels and tires or is equipped with wheels with different offsets (wheel backspace) front and rear? In this case, the tires will definitely require dismounting, remounting and rebalancing in order to rotate the tires. Four other typical rotation patterns are as follows:
The left rear goes to the right rear. And the right rear goes to left rear.
Front-wheel drive : The left front goes to the left rear. The left rear goes to the right front. The right rear goes to the left front. The spare goes to the right rear. The right front goes to the spare.
Rear-wheel drive or four-wheel drive: The left rear goes to the left front. The left front goes to the spare. The spare goes to the right rear. The right rear goes to the right front. The right front goes to the left rear.
The idea here is to distribute the wear over five tires throughout their life. This is particularly important on many all-wheel-drive vehicles in that all tires, including the spare, are, in theory, worn identically.
Author: Alexey Kokorin
If you turn the steering wheel all the way, get out of the car and look at it from the front, you will notice that the wheels are turned at different angles: one is turned out more than the other. But this is not a malfunction, but on the contrary, an accurate engineering calculation, which this year celebrates its anniversary - it turns exactly 200 years old.
Why is the steering designed the way it is, and why couldn't it have been done differently?
Why do the wheels turn at different angles?
The answer to this question lies on the surface: imagine that the car is moving in a circle in a clockwise direction - in this case, the circle along which the front right wheel will move will be smaller than the circle described by the left. Accordingly, at a constant vehicle speed, the wheels on the same axle will rotate at different speeds. If the wheels were turned at the same angle, then the inner wheel, trying to move in the same way as the outer one, would constantly slip and cause the outer wheel to slip - while the car's behavior in the turn would be unpredictable, and tire wear would be catastrophic. This can be clearly seen on multi-axle bogies of trucks and trailers: wheels that do not turn move with slippage in a turn, and tires wear out quickly and unevenly. Accordingly, to solve these problems and ensure the correct movement of the steered wheels along their trajectory, they turn at different angles.
How is the wheel geometry calculated?
The very problem of slippage of the inner wheel in a turn was relevant long before the mass distribution of cars - after all, horse-drawn carts had the same problems. Actually, it was on a horse-drawn cart that the steering that solved this problem made its debut: in 1817 it was invented by Georg Lankenshperger, and in 1918 his agent Rudolf Ackerman patented it in England. Since then, the principle of turning the control wheels at different angles in a turn has been called the Ackermann principle.
To ensure the desired steering angles, the geometry of the steering trapezium is calculated according to a single conventional scheme. In it, the transverse steering rod is shorter than the control axle and is shifted beyond it, and the steering steering arms lie on the line between the axis of rotation of the front wheels and the center of the rear axle of the vehicle. In order to make it easier to understand this seemingly complicated explanation, just look at the simple diagram below.
Accordingly, when turning the wheels in such a scheme, they turn to different angles - the inner one turns more, and the outer one less. In this case, the centers of the circles along which the wheels move coincide, and the radius of the circle for the outer wheel is actually Vehicle turning radius curb to curb corrected for tire width.
It is worth noting that the image above is a schematic, and the steering of the car is of course more complicated than what is shown in the diagram. However, the general geometry is valid for all "civilian" cars.
In motorsports, the approach can change: for example, on some racing cars, the situation with wheel angles can even be reversed to compensate for side slip of the wheel in high-speed corners, and in drifting, the front wheels are tried to be parallel even in corners to reduce wear on the front tires with constant movement in a controlled skid. But these are extremes that are not relevant for ordinary production cars.
By the way, at the very beginning we mentioned for a reason not only the different paths that pass in the turn of the wheel, but also the different speeds of their rotation. In order to ensure the possibility of rotation of the wheels on the same axle at different speeds, as we have already said, you need differential .
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Other records on the operation of the car KAMAZ-5490:
Mounting and dismantling of tires at the enterprise must be carried out in a specially designated area equipped with the necessary equipment, fixtures and tools.
Mounting and dismounting of tires on the road must be carried out with special mounting blades from the tool kit and accessories.
Removing the wheel from the hub should be carried out with the car firmly braked and with the air completely released from the tires in the following order:
Before fitting disc wheels , clean the seat on the hub and wheel. Lubricate the bore diameter on the hub, the threads on the wheel bolts with grease. Put a drop of oil between the nut and the support washer.
The wheel nuts must be tightened evenly in two or three steps according to the diagram shown in the figure with a torque of 54-67 kgf.m.
Wheel nut tightening order.
After removing and reinstalling disc wheels on the vehicle, check the tightening torque of the nuts after a short run (100-150 km). Tighten to specified torque if necessary.
Removing and mounting a tubeless tyre.
Attention!
Removing a tubeless tire from a wheel rim.
How to remove a wheel with a tubeless tyre.
To facilitate mounting and dismounting and to avoid damage to the tire seal, the tire bead and rim flange should be wiped with a cloth dampened with soapy water or plain water.
Before mounting, check the technical condition of the wheel and tire: the wheel must not have rust, dirt, metal burrs, especially on the conical surfaces in contact with the tire; the tire must be free of bead damage, deep cuts, holes in the sidewalls or the tread. Tire fitting work must be carried out with a serviceable tool.
Fitting a tubeless tire to a wheel rim.
How to mount a tubeless tyre.
Car jack installation.
Front wheel lift.
1 - thrust foot for jacking; 2 - jack.
To lift the rear wheel, place the jack under the stop foot (see Fig. Raising the rear wheel).
Rear wheel lift.
1 - thrust foot for jacking; 2 - jack.
Attention!
The jack must withstand a short-term, not more than five minutes, overload, which is not more than 15% without showing signs of permanent deformation in parts and without disrupting performance.
Tire pressure of a vehicle with technically permissible maximum weight, kPa (kgf/cm2).
| Size | 315/60 R22.5 | 315/70 R22.5 | 315/80 R22.5 |
| Front axle wheels | 880±20 (9.0±0.2) | 830±20 (8.5±0.2) | 780±20 (8.0±0.2) |
| Rear axle wheels | 780±20 (8.0±0.2) | 780±20 (8.0±0.2) | 730±20 (7.5±0.2) |
Tire service.
Cracks, dents on wheel disks are not allowed. The discs must be securely fastened, the breakage of the studs or the absence of wheel nuts is not allowed.
Observe the torque and tightening pattern for the wheel nuts.
Check the technical condition of the tires by visual inspection, starting from the left front wheel in a clockwise direction. Remove stones and other foreign objects stuck in the tread, sidewalls. If fuel, oil and other oil products are found on the tires, wipe the tires dry. Make sure that fuel, oil and other petroleum products do not get on the tires, as this quickly disables them.
Check the tire pressure with a pressure gauge.
The air pressure in the tires must correspond to the values specified in the technical data sheet.
Tire inflation.
A 25% reduction in pressure reduces tire life by 35-40%. Also take into account that fuel consumption increases by 1-1.5 liters per 100 kilometers with a decrease in tire pressure by 98 kPa (1.0 kgf / cm2).
It is possible to inflate a tire without dismantling when the air pressure is reduced by no more than 40% compared to normal and when it is certain that the decrease in pressure has not violated the correct installation.
