How to shave atv tires


ever heard of tire shaving??? [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Honda TRX 450R ATV Information > ever heard of tire shaving???


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trx450r ryder

04-24-2008, 07:28 PM

hey i saw in the quad magazine at the weston beach race someguy shaved the side of his maxxis razr's and made a impresive sand tire out of them like their was only tread down the middle ...........how do u shave a tire ??????


pro-rider46

04-24-2008, 07:38 PM

im not a specialist on this, but i think it is a machine that does it. or maybe like a wire that gets hot to melt through stuff like they use to take of windshields


bluebaron

04-24-2008, 07:42 PM

Its a tire groover. They heat up a metal blade, they you start taking off rubber.

http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/tools/images/tiregroover.jpg


GPracer2500

04-24-2008, 07:52 PM

I use the exact unit pictured above. Works alright. I mean, the results are acceptable but the groover doesn't output enough heat (250w I think) for what I try and do with it. It works but it's a lot of time consuming labor to take lbs of rubber off. 500w or more would be better for me since I take off long swaths of rubber.

I took 5lbs of "unnecessary" rubber off these sand sharks. That's 5lbs per tire. And I was able to customize the paddle blade height to get the traction where I wanted it. It turned a tire that I didn't like at all for my application into a tire that performs well.

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/1822/p11900840fa.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/391/p11900864qk.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/5609/p11900793mo.jpg

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6854/p2110177mediumzx7.jpg

The first (and only, so far) set I've cut turned out kinda ugly. What you see pictured are the best looking sides. I didn't start with the right blade width and did a lot of experimenting with technique. My next set should be easier to do and look nicer because of what I learned on the first go-around.


GPracer2500

04-24-2008, 08:06 PM

The panel on the right was my first attempt. By the time I made my way around to the last panel I was doing better. Point is, the learning curve is steep. If you're just taking off some knobs, no biggy. If you're doing something more radical don't expect your first tire to come out all that great.

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/3554/p11900931ii.jpg

By the time I finished the second tire I had the blade width sorted out and was pleased with the results.

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/2414/p9040069dj4.jpg

The tires started out like this.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8931/pc050014kb9.jpg


TRX450RACER174

04-24-2008, 08:09 PM

I'm no expert on tire shaving but from the looks of the pics i think there awesome my only ? is do they need to be equal in weight or close to the same weight.


GPracer2500

04-24-2008, 08:17 PM

Originally posted by TRX450RACER174
I'm no expert on tire shaving but from the looks of the pics i think there awesome my only ? is do they need to be equal in weight or close to the same weight.

If they're close they're fine. Those sand sharks ended up a few oz different. BUT they also started out a 5.2oz different before I even touched them. I've weighed a number of different paddle/wheel combos and they usually don't weight exactly the same.


TRX450RACER174

04-24-2008, 08:21 PM

I dont ride much sand Glamis a couple times a season but those have that custom look and with the weight savings you get taking 5lbs off the better the bike will run not carrying the extra weight on the rear tires very interesting i might have to experiment on a set of moulded sand tires i have damn you.


maddmatt02

04-24-2008, 11:23 PM

so you saved 5 lbs off each? 10 total, anything to the fronts?

I heard once(in reference to a car though) that every pound of rotating mass at the wheels is like 7 lbs of stationary weight on the vehicle itself.

I wonder how much truth that has when applied to a quad.

if you could get 2 lbs off each front, 14x7 would be like 98lbs.

Im gonna have to test this out when i get some paddles.


trx450r ryder

04-24-2008, 11:36 PM

hey gp racer that looks sik ill have to try that wit some sand geckos or somthing where do u get the tool????


GPracer2500

04-25-2008, 02:24 AM

Originally posted by maddmatt02
so you saved 5 lbs off each? 10 total, anything to the fronts?....

I run those on an '85 ATC250R so I've only got 1 front. :D And no, I didn't mod it. 20 years of wear has it worn down plenty. ;)

http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/7122/croppedic4.jpg

But I would do it do a set of dune specific front tires. I bet my Dune Tracker front quad tires have 2 or 3 lbs of rubber they don't need. Probably not as beneficial as working over rears though.

The weight savings did make a difference. For the first ride test I had about the same paddle blade height. I did cut the blades down but since the carcass "went down" the blades had to have some height lopped off too. So the first test was mostly just weight reduction. They spun up faster and held a tall gear better. Still too much traction though. So I started cutting the blade height down in stages until they would spin enough to hold 5th up Oldsmobile Hill. Actually, the conditions have to be just right to pull fifth there. I didn't cut the blades down any more for fear my launches would suffer. But when conditions are right I can compete with my buddies on much newer machinery....

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/gpracer2500/Dunes/P2240018Medium.jpg

....On Banshee Hill at Dumont (or most flat drags) I can compete (or win) against that same competition on most every run. It's ALL tires. Well, not really all tires but tires can easily make the difference between winning/competing and getting your doors blown off. A junk tire is night and day from a good tire. As soon as I realized that, I started cutting (since I don't have $450 for the tires I really want that come already comp cut).

The paddle blades are currently about the same height as a Skat-Trak Glider blade. The paddle/wheel combos went from 17lbs 6oz to 12lbs 9oz (each) after the final blade shortening.

I probably shouldn't be sharing my go-fast secrets :devil: but since comp-cutting your own paddles is an arduous, messy, and time consuming task, I'm not too worried about everyone suddenly showing up at the hill with faster tires. ;)


GPracer2500

04-25-2008, 02:28 AM

Originally posted by trx450r ryder
...ill have to try that wit some sand geckos or somthing...

If you've got some Geckos laying around, I'd highly recommend giving them the comp cut treatment. Those tires are stupid heavy with way too much traction for good performance in a sand drag of any length (in Glamis sand anyway).


maddmatt02

04-25-2008, 10:06 AM

can someone please tell me how too much traction is abad thing? I rode on geckos once, then switched to those gbc sand sharks. then a buddy had some spare skat trak edges and those were the best, but even the itp's were better than the geckos. but I just thought I liked the other tires because they got better traction, never thought I would have liked them more because of less traction. Ive only been to the dunes twice though so far, but my 300 is almost done, my 450r will be here soon and I moved down to AZ so I am pretty close to dumont and glamis so I should be going alot more often.

anyone know if the paddles on kenda dune runners are way too soft and will fold over? I like the price on those alot.


trx450r ryder

04-25-2008, 12:13 PM

how is to much traction a bad thing???:confused:


TRX450RACER174

04-25-2008, 01:05 PM

Originally posted by trx450r ryder
how is to much traction a bad thing???:confused:

My experience in sand is to much traction robs power from the machine it's a balance between getting the right amount of paddles by allowing the engine to rev higher you keep the engine in the power band. .

In the dunes there is definitely such a thing as too much traction. On a dirt trail or motorcross track, it's probably a rare situation where you've got too much.

But paddle tires in sand are capable of generating sooooo much bite that it can overwhelm the engines power. You don't notice it so much in lower gears. But when your climbing a long sand dune and you feel the engine start to bog, forcing a downshift--that's a situation where less traction would increase your speed. If the engine can keep those tires spinning and not loose RPM then you'll keep your speed up or even accelerate. A paddle tire spinning in the sand is still generating tons of forward momentum. That's different than hard packed dirt (or most other surfaces) where when you break the tires free you loose most of your forward momentum. Paddles in the sand aren't like that. You want them to spin some. And you want them to spin fast--that means 4th and 5th gear.

Next time your at the dunes check out the paddles being run by the really fast guys. You might be surprised how few paddles many of them are running. When it comes to paddles, more is not always better. If you rarely get out of 3rd gear, shy away from the monster hills, and just want to pull 10mph wheelies next to camp all afternoon, that's fine (no bash) and you probably should have unspinable paddles for that. But if you want to race up a dune, you need something different. In my experience, most people are overpaddled and don't even know it.


maddmatt02

04-25-2008, 08:34 PM

what would be a good paddle for a 300ex? I rode a 330 (P&P, cam, bumped cr, etc, but it was pretty beat) but it had 8 paddle geckos and going up banshee hill in winchester bay, I ended up climbing it at like 3 MPH in 2nd gear. my girls YFZ with sand sharks I was going up it in 4th and accelerating but it has this little jog to the left a few feet with tree roots/stumps so Id drop to 3rd there and then I could accelerate after it but not hit 4th, but the jog is close to the top. however I did have enough bite to then lift the front and ride on the rears the rest of the way up. so if the tires had less traction I might be able to get back into 4th after that jog?


GPracer2500

04-26-2008, 12:36 AM

On your 300, I couldn't say for sure what's best. 20x10x8 6 paddle Glider maybe? Or maybe an 20x10x8 5 paddle Hauler? Those are pretty expensive tires though. Most any 6 paddle would probably be ok but I'd much rather underpaddle than overpaddle.

One thing you can do is cut some height off the paddle blades of an 8 paddler to better suit it to a machine. You won't loose much weight but customizing the traction of a paddle is probably the single most important thing. Most people probably already have what they'd need in their garage--utility blade clamped in some vice grips, a torch to heat the blade, and a steady hand. If you've got the time: cut and test, cut some more and test, etc etc. Pretty soon you'll be rapping out 3rd on the same hill that required second before.

Geckos pretty much blow in my experience. I've ridden the 6 paddle 18" version on a Blaster, the 21" 8 paddle version on a Warrior, and the 21" 8 paddle on a Rap700. On the little bikes they'll get you around fine but that's about it. They just rob too much power from machines that are already hurtin' for more power. You end up crawling up those long steep hills in 2nd at a snails pace--just like you said. You need less traction so the engine can spin those tires. On the Rap700 the Geckos still hurt the top end to a noticeable degree. The Raptor's power hid the "problem" well but when raced against a nearly identical Raptor with better tires the difference was clear.


maddmatt02

04-26-2008, 01:49 AM

oh, the 330 is my girlfriends sisters, it used to have awesome power and when Id drag the YFZ, Id actually almost hold it thru 3rd then the YFZ blew it away, I think it was one tooth down from stock? not sure though. but that was when it was her dads, then before it became hers it was the "kids" quad, they rode that thing around and almost never shifted, and the airbox popped back off the frame or something so the carb boot came off the box and sucked who knows how much sand, so it was alot weaker when I took it up the hill. the geckops that were on the 330 were the 21" 8 paddles, they came off the 460 stroker that got a bent frame out there. that bike spun em fine though!

however my 300 is stock, old engine built out of 3 different engines, fresh hone and rings though, UNI/ full DG, no lid, 400 carb.

I am going to do the 385 kit though with the 400 sleeve, probably 11:1 and a hotcam. thats about all i will do to that engine since I will be buying my 450r sometime this year. gotta save the money for that bike, since a fully built 300 wont touch a 450 anyways.

have you ever ridden gbc sand devils or kenda dune runners? they are both pretty inexpensive.


GPracer2500

04-26-2008, 03:50 AM

Originally posted by maddmatt02
...have you ever ridden gbc sand devils or kenda dune runners? they are both pretty inexpensive.

I've ridden Sand Devils on a 400EX. Their not a bad tire for the price. I own a set of Chen-Shin Dune Hoppers which are I believe are identical to Kenda Dune Runners. They're alright too. The Runners/Hoppers are 22 inchers. That's not a bad size but may require gearing down. They make my 250r feel geared too tall compared to my cut Sharks.

All those tires are good candidates for comp cutting.


04-26-2008, 03:25 PM

I've seen some pretty sick asymmetircal designs shaved out of turf tamers for racing purposes.


tooney

04-26-2008, 05:17 PM

Hi,
Wow I was suprised that you guys had even heard of Weston Beach Race over in the USA:macho
The main reason that we shave the sides off the front tyres and only leave the centre tread is because when we go down the 1 mile long straight each lap there is quite alot of standing water which when you have a full tread tyre causes aquaplane and some worrying moments:eek2: ,shaving all the outer treads of made a big difference to the handling.
Hope this goes a small way to helping answer your question.:)


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Cutting your own sand tires.... [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Steering & Suspension > Cutting your own sand tires....


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GPracer2500

01-10-2007, 11:24 AM

Has anyone cut their own sand tires? I'm thinking along the lines of what Sand Tires Unlimited does with their Brats. Comp cut Brats will actually show some threads here and there they are shaved down so much.

I'm thinking about using one of these....

http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/tools/images/tiregroover.jpg

...to cut down a set of Sand Sharks I have (20x11x8). They're way too heavy at 17lbs 4oz each (tire&wheel).

Has anyone done this? Advice? Opinions?


300EXrider356

01-10-2007, 08:30 PM

Sooo like cutting off the knobs on regular tires to turn them into sand tires?:confused:


JOEX

01-10-2007, 09:29 PM

I don't recall ever hearing about this. ..


400exrider707

01-10-2007, 11:18 PM

Originally posted by JOEX
I don't recall ever hearing about this...

yeah... more info please!


GPracer2500

01-11-2007, 12:26 PM

Some paddle tires have rubber removed from the carcass of the tire for weight reduction. Sand Tires Unlimited Padla Brats start out as a regular molded paddle tire similar to Sand Sharks, Sand Stars, Sand Snakes, Sand Devels, Sidewinders, Dune Runners, or any other molded paddle tire. Most tire manufactures call it good and there's your tire. STU "comp cuts" or "play cuts" their Brats for weight reduction. They shave away unecessary rubber on the carcass between the paddles. This extra step is part of why STU Brats are so expensive ($400+ w/ wheels).

Not a great picture, but you can see the side-to-side lines on the carcass from being cut down.

http://www.sandtiresunlimited.com/graphics/PB_big. jpg

Skat-Traks achieve weight reduction a different way (one I can't/won't do). They've got that wire-brushed look. Skat-Trak takes an old knobby tire, cuts off all the old knobs, buffs the carcass down to the desired level, and welds on their paddles. They're available in three different buff levels--standard buff, bead-to-bead buff, and tripple buff (heavy, lighter, lightest).

I've recently become very aware of the performance differences between various paddles due to weight. I always figured lighter was better but never realized just how big the difference was until I did some back to back testing with different paddles.

I've got two sets of SandSharks and they're both (mostly) junk to me. Their just too heavy and leave way too much performance on the table. So I'm going to try to "comp cut" them and turn a crap tire into a good performing tire.


JOEX

01-11-2007, 10:26 PM

Interesting... How much weight do you think you'll be able to remove?


GPracer2500

01-11-2007, 11:51 PM

5 lbs per tire seems like an awful lot of rubber. ...but that's what I'd like to get from them. That would get them down to near 12 lbs each (tire & wheel). I may decide to remove part of every other paddle.

My goal is to come close to duplicating STU comp cut Brat performance. A 21x12x8 comp cut Brat on .125 rims should weigh ~10lbs.

The groover is on it's way so we'll see what happens.


400exrider707

01-11-2007, 11:55 PM

The buffed tires you speak of are called vulcanized tires if Im thinking of the same thing.

Pretty interesting stuff with the grooved paddle tires, so simple I'm surprised you dont hear more about it.


JOEX

01-12-2007, 12:01 AM

That may be possible. In the pic posted it looks like 5 swaths taken between each paddle? 1-2 oz for each one? Just guess-timating :p

Good luck and let us know how it works:cool:


triple b

01-12-2007, 12:07 PM

Hey GP
I can appricate and understand why you would what to save weight.
But the Sandtires Unlimited tire you are showing has had accrual paddles removed to customize the tire your application and and save money on production costs not for weight savings. The way I understand it from a few years ago is the Sandtires Unlimited has one mold with three different paddle sizes. For example there will be 7) 1 " tall paddles for a 400, 7) 1 1/4" tall paddles for a stock 450, and 7) 1 1/2" tall paddles for a modified bike. (Note: the number of paddles and highs are just for an example and my not represent the accrual paddle tire) They just shave off the unwanted paddles for what ever tire they need in stock. The comp cut or play cut you refer to. That way they save money on moulds


GPracer2500

01-12-2007, 12:32 PM

Originally posted by triple b
Hey GP
I can appricate and understand why you would what to save weight.
But the Sandtires Unlimited tire you are showing has had accrual paddles removed to customize the tire your application and and save money on production costs not for weight savings. The way I understand it from a few years ago is the Sandtires Unlimited has one mold with three different paddle sizes. For example there will be 7) 1 " tall paddles for a 400, 7) 1 1/4" tall paddles for a stock 450, and 7) 1 1/2" tall paddles for a modified bike. (Note: the number of paddles and highs are just for an example and my not represent the accrual paddle tire) They just shave off the unwanted paddles for what ever tire they need in stock. That way they save money on moulds

Hmmm. I looked closely at a set of STU comp cut Brats last weekend and there's no doubt they had weight savings in mind when they shaved the carcass. Some spots were cut so thin you could (barely) see cords.

The Brat is a "new addition" to STU's lineup (I think they've been around for a little bit though). They come in 6 and 9 paddle versions with a comp cut or a play cut. I don't see how they could make a 6 paddle version starting off with a 9 paddle and keep the paddle spacing even. Maybe it was different a few years ago?

I can see a sand car paddle with 30+ paddles having paddles removed to suit the application. I think their sand car tires are STU's bread and butter product....

http://www.sandtiresunlimited.com/graphics/16PT_big.jpg

Whatever the case, STU comp cut brats are the lightest paddle tires I'm aware of and I'm pretty sure they don't get that way by accident.


triple b

01-12-2007, 03:07 PM

I have no dought that STU has weight saving in mind and cutting production cost when they produce any tire in the line up ATV or Car.
I have not seen the BRAT nor have I been to the sand dunes in a in the last 5 years so many things have could have changed but from my experience in the past with STU that is the way they did it. One mould different cuts and yes you could see the cords sometimes


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About ATV tires. Selection and recommendations of professionals.

A four-wheeler is an SUV by definition, which means that tires for a ATV are the most important part that ensures its flotation. Going to conquer the next track, you must be confident in your four-wheeler.

Whether racing or riding a quad over rough terrain, you can count on a safe and comfortable ride. Experienced riders know that only high-quality ATV tires can provide maximum comfort and safe handling of this exciting vehicle.

Why change factory tires

Given the fact that the ATV was originally destined to conquer the off-road, manufacturers shoe SUVs in tires that provide confident driving on hard dirt roads. Naturally, a car on such wheels can also zip along the highway, although driving on public roads for most models is prohibited by traffic rules.

Even if you are not a professional athlete, you are unlikely to resist the temptation to conquer the viscous wetlands, or test the quad in liquid mud to evaluate its ability to overcome impassable areas. After all, that's what you bought the SUV for. Is not it? And if so, then it is clear that ordinary quad tires are of little use for sorties into the area, replete with deep puddles filled with viscous mud. It's time to think about equipping your ATV with real mud tires.

Structural features of real ATV tires

Real mud tires, unlike standard tires, have larger lugs that can bite into loose soil or sand. The tread, in the form of a discharged Christmas tree, resembles a pattern on tractor wheels. The diameter of such tires is increased and, depending on the model, ranges from 25 to 34 inches.

The most sought after ATV tires are between 26 and 28 inches as they fit most ATVs without any suspension modifications. The width of the cross-country tires is slightly larger than the standard tires, and the width of the front and rear tires is different. This allows the front tires to follow their own path, while the rear tires follow a slightly different path, gripping the curb and allowing you to go a lot further.

How tire parameters affect ATV driving in different conditions

Under normal operating conditions, the main parameter that affects the stability and handling of the ATV is the crown - the tread area in contact with the road surface. The larger the contact patch, the better the handling on firm ground. Therefore, if you are a fan of high speeds, like to maneuver and ride on rough terrain full of hard dirt roads, forest rolled roads, as well as any other hard ground, choose tires with a radial cord construction (example 1, example 2, example 3). Also, the radial design of the cord very well fulfills the bumps that can get in your way, a protruding tree root, stone or something else, the radial design will allow you to overcome this bump in the most comfortable way!

ATV wheels require softer, lighter rubber for maximum road contact and traction to confidently tackle swampy terrain. Cross-country ability is enhanced by a special tire design. An important role belongs to the lamellas, which have a peculiar shape and optimal height. The ability of the lugs to self-clean is very important, since the adhering dirt greatly complicates the patency on loose soils. Sidewall strength is also important for mud tires. Passing elastic wheels on deep ruts is associated with the risk of damage. The presence of strong sidewalls minimizes such risks.

The diameter of the tires affects the ground clearance of the all-terrain vehicle, the increase of which increases its cross-country ability. The width of the tire changes the area of ​​its contact with the road. Wider profiles sink less into soft and loose surfaces, helping you to move confidently through the mud.

What are the best ATV tires

When choosing tires for an ATV, you should proceed from the expected conditions of its operation. Ideally, tires should provide comfortable driving, both on hard dirt roads and in mud. However, in practice it is impossible to achieve such results. Different manufacturers solve this difficult problem in their own way. In principle, all solutions come down to the creation of rubber optimized for use on a certain type of road: solid dirt tracks, or loose soils, mud, sand, grass. There are also all-purpose tires that provide average performance on different surfaces.

DAKAR 2016. SERGEY KARYAKIN IN THE QUAD CATEGORY.

The well-known American manufacturer ITP has succeeded in creating the perfect tire. It is by far the #1 tire and rim brand in its class. ITP products are known and bought by professional riders and extreme sports enthusiasts all over the world. Our well-known compatriot driver Sergey Karyakin participated in the Paris-Dakar race on tires with ITP rims. The ITP range includes the following tire types:

  • road example ;
  • cross example ;
  • sports example ;
  • mud example ;
  • universal example .

ITP tires are produced exclusively in the USA, which is an additional guarantee of their high quality.

The softness of ITP tires is superior to all known brands. But this indicator is very important for off-road driving. In an effort to find the best properties for different roads, ITP tire developers create tires for all conditions of use, creating new and unique treads that can cope with their tasks on any type of surface.

The main advantages of ITP tires include:

  • special elasticity and strength of the rubber compound;
  • high performance properties;
  • high speed index;
  • wide range;

Just to add, ITP also makes excellent rims for the ATV in various sizes, including beadlock and reversible beadlocks. The discs are made of durable aluminum alloy and are lightweight and stylish. They are compatible with sport and utility models of modern ATVs.

ITP wheels are produced using an original casting technology that provides them with an enviable resistance to deformation and cracking. In the US, ITP provides a lifetime warranty on its discs. The polished surfaces of these wheels go well with the matte color of the tires and give the SUV a touch of special drive.

Equipping your ATV with ITP wheels and tires, you can safely conquer the most difficult tracks on it. It is by far the #1 brand for ATV tires and rims.

How to choose ATV tires?


Buying an ATV is a difficult and responsible step, but be prepared for additional expenses. If you want to get the maximum pleasure from operation, you will have to take care of some important details. Now we would like to tell you about ATV tires. About which of them are the best in their class and which wheels are worth paying attention to. It is important!

If an SUV is purchased for the purpose of driving not only on asphalt, but also for traveling and off-road driving, then it is worth replacing the stock tires with a more advanced option. After all, ATV tires have an impact on the patency of the vehicle. And if a severe off-road race is planned, then with stock tires you simply torture yourself and your team on arrival.

So, what kind of ATV tires to choose from those that the market offers?

There are two types of tires: radial and diagonal.

1. Radial tires.

This is the most expensive option, but it boasts the following number of advantages:

  • Excellent flotation on any surface;
  • Radial tire sidewalls are elastic;
  • Contact patch stability.
  • This type of rubber is often used for ATVs.

    2. Diagonal tires.

    In this variant, everything is the opposite of a radial tire - the cords extend from bead to bead diagonally, while the cords intersect. Diagonal rubber is cheaper, but it also deforms more easily. But, with quad bikes, things are different. Deformation for them, on the contrary, is a plus, as they move off-road. Thus, the tire adapts to the surface, which guarantees good grip. But, with frequent deformation, alas, the rubber wears out quickly. If radial tires had the characteristics of diagonal tires, they would cost even more. Therefore, most of the SUVs are still “shod” in bias-type tires.

    Surface and grip

    Asphalt

    If we consider asphalt, then everything is clear here: the grip is excellent with a large contact patch (PC). But off-road is a separate issue.

    If the road ahead through mud

    If a large PC area is the best solution for asphalt, then for a dirt road this is more of a disadvantage. In this situation, it will just be like riding on a sled. But if you want good grip, then choose tires with side lugs and, of course, deep tread. Large lugs help to push off well. Rear and front tires work differently while driving, so there must be separate requirements for them. The rear tires need to have a deep tread pattern and large lugs for effective forward movement. The front tires, on the other hand, should prevent the SUV from wobbling and provide high-quality traction for steering.

    Sand road

    For such a road, you need special rubber with a pattern with long blocks.


    Learn more