How to spin your tires

2. The car must be technically sound. During the application of this technique in practice, the loads on the engine, on the brake system, on the wheel bearings and on the suspension reach the most extreme values.

3. The car owner must be personally aware of the following fact: that such heating of the rubber can lead, and sometimes does lead to serious technical breakdowns.

Attention!!! The article is written for one purpose only, namely to show the basics of the burnout technique. It does not in any way call motorists to action. Any attempt to use this racing vehicle for any recreational or professional purposes may result in serious damage to the vehicle. Also, this type of activity can be dangerous both for the driver himself and for those around him. In no case should this slipping method be used in crowded places, as well as on public roads !!! This is a mandatory requirement for all motorists.

I. Make sure your vehicle is suitable for burnout. It must have enough horsepower. For this, such machines are usually suitable, in which the number of cylinders in fact is more than four, which are equipped with a manual transmission. And for a greater effect, smooth tires are also needed, which have a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe so-called contact patch with the asphalt surface, which can give out a lot of effective smoke.

*If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the use of burnout slip is strictly prohibited. It will lead to the destruction of the transmission and costly repairs to the car itself.

Rear wheel drive vehicles

II. Engage first gear, then fully depress the clutch and gradually begin to increase engine speed. In a quick but smooth motion, start releasing the clutch pedal while still pressing on the gas.

Attention!!! To prevent the speed from going into the red zone, work with the gas pedal very carefully, you do not need to press it all the way to the floor. The ideal technique is shown in the following video (1.00 minute video). Play with the gas pedal, alternately pressing it harder, then weaker, while constantly keeping high, but also safe for the engine speed !!!

The average range of these revolutions should be between 3500 - 4500 thousand rpm. On modern vehicles, this range is closest to peak torque.

With the clutch fully released, place your left foot on the brake pedal. In order to press with the right force with your left foot on the brake pedal, some practice is required. From the first time (and sometimes from the tenth) it is very difficult to do this.

Braking force must be more than sufficient, and this is necessary so that the rear wheels of the car continue to turn freely, while the car itself remains in place or continues to move very slowly forward.

Attention !!! Trying to do a burnout for the first time will, of course, be initially unsuccessful over and over again, and this will continue until you learn to feel the smallest nuances of the car's behavior. In this case, there is a possibility of overheating of the clutch itself, up to its failure. So try to keep an eye on unusual and foreign smells that appear in the car interior, as well as on the behavior of the car itself, when you turn on the gearbox and squeeze the clutch, exactly at the moment the clutch discs converge!!!

Front wheel drive vehicles

III. Burnout is somewhat easier on front wheel drive than on rear wheel drive. To do this, you need to hold the parking brake, then raise the engine speed and just as smoothly and quickly release the clutch pedal. As a result of such a fast (almost instantaneous) increase in the speed of rotation of the front wheels, the car will not go forward and will not stall; remaining in one place, he will begin to release long-awaited and long-awaited puffs of smoke from under his tires.

Front wheel drive is much easier to burnout. But at the same time, there is one important nuance, namely: the handbrake of the car must be in good working order, it must be able to hold the car in one place.

Not enough power under the hood

IV. If the car does not have enough power for such experiments, then in this case, the connoisseurs have some tricks in store that help one hundred percent to break the wheels of the car into slipping.

1. Lighten your car, especially for rear wheel drive vehicles. There should not be anything superfluous in the trunk, not even a spare wheel. Before you drive to the site, you need to take care of this in advance. The axle of the car will unload a little and it will be easier for her to break the wheels into slip.

2. Burnout Rolling back at low speed with the clutch depressed, you do almost everything the same as in previous times. Release the clutch, then press the gas, but no longer press the brake. As a result of the action of multidirectional forces, one of the forces will be directed downward, and the engine force will be directed in the opposite direction, that is, it will pull up and the car in this case will remain in place without the brakes being pressed.

3. Try this first on a wet surface. Grip on asphalt will be much weaker than it could be in dry weather, and this will definitely increase your chances of success.

V. And in conclusion. To reduce stress on the brake system itself, use the Brake line locking system, i.e. blocking. After installing it on the car and pressing the button, it will automatically turn off the rear brakes. This will simplify your task and keep the car in its original technical condition.

And a snack for all readers: Fail and Win compilations of burnout.

Donuts and burnt rubber. Drive like a Stig

Donuts and burnt rubber

To perform the maneuvers that I will discuss below, you need a car where you can turn off the traction control and stability systems - and this is a rare endangered species these days. It should also be rear-wheel drive, with a limited-resistance differential.

The differential adjusts the speed of rotation of the drive wheels relative to each other. In a turn, it allows the outer wheel, which follows a longer path, to rotate faster than the inner one. As you accelerate, the limited-slip differential performs a second task: distributing torque to the wheels.

When the car enters a corner, the outer wheels are loaded, resulting in more traction than the inner ones. Unloaded wheels on the inside tend to lose traction when accelerating. In vehicles with an open (i.e. standard) differential, torque is uncontrollable. When the inner wheel begins to slip, torque is not transferred to the wheel on the outer path. If there is a slippery surface under it at this moment, it will also begin to slip, and this way you will not go far.

The self-locking differential is activated in the event of a large difference in speed between the drive wheels and distributes the transmission of torque between them, that is, transfers most of the energy to the wheel that currently has better grip. There's only one way to be sure...

Spinning the Nickels

Performing a simple donut is as easy as walking out the door to the street if you have room to maneuver and you're not afraid to ruin your tires. It is easier to carry out this maneuver on a manual gearbox, but it is also possible on an automatic transmission if the engine power is enough to break the grip of the wheels with the road. You can make sure that there is enough power by strongly pressing the gas pedal when starting.

Standing still in first gear with the clutch fully depressed, press the gas all the way and spin the engine speed up to the maximum mark. Let the engine roar - never mind, the rev limiter will protect your pistons.

Turn the steering wheel sharply in the desired direction and release the clutch.

To quit means to lift your foot off the pedal faster than if you stepped on molten lava. A common mistake in this case is to start off slowly, carefully releasing the clutch: the clutch disc will overheat, friction will decrease, and you will go forward instead of going sideways.

Accuracy required to rotate vehicle around a specific mark

When you release the clutch pedal, engine power is instantly transferred to the rear wheels. The grip of the tires with the road is immediately broken, and they begin to slip, which is good. Turning the steering wheel causes the car to start rotating, while the center of rotation is in the area of ​​the front wheels. As long as you hold the gas pedal, the car will "cut nickels" in a cloud of burning tire smoke, and it will cost you about 5 pounds per second.

But this is only the beginning.

Pyatak advanced

This trick is much harder to pull off. It will take a lot of time even to explain the technique of performance, let alone to master it. To turn nickels, it is enough to press on the gas and keep the steering wheel turned to the right or left so that the radius of rotation is as small as possible. In an advanced version, you need accuracy that allows you to turn the car around a specific mark. This means that you will have to keep the car on a certain trajectory. It will require coordinated work of hands and eyes.

As for the point around which the rotation takes place, in Top Gear I used a point about 175 centimeters high, with brown hair, which also knew how to do vertical splits. Yes, Chloe Bruce was pretty hard not to notice.

Behind the scenes, I mentally visualized the arc along which the car should move, and I was terribly worried in the last seconds before the curtain fell and 5000 pairs of eyes stared at me.

The Holden Monaro, with its noisy eight-cylinder engine and limited-slip rear axle differential, was perfect for the task, and I pre-taped a coin around the handbrake button so it would go down as soon as I lifted it.

I must have performed this maneuver hundreds of times, rehearsed thousands of times, but I still had a bad feeling all the time. My heart was pounding in my chest, and my fingertips tingled with excess adrenaline, because the maneuver was indeed dangerous. I definitely recommend that you practice it using a rubber cone rather than a live person.

The curtain flew up and spotlights pierced the Monaro. I pressed the clutch, and the tires screeched on the metal floor. I gave a little gas to control the rotation of the wheels and give them some power, then shifted into second gear and walked along the concrete retaining wall.

In my peripheral vision, I saw the white kimono that Chloe was wearing, and aimed at a mark about one car width to her left, then applied the handbrake, turned the steering wheel to the right, and the Monaro began to slide.

The car turned 45 degrees on the handbrake and went in an arc around Chloe. I entered the maneuver at 60 km/h, and now it has dropped to about 25 in a clockwise rotation.

Chloe continued to dazzle the crowd with her swordsmanship and beautiful lunges as Monaro's mouth got perilously close to her impeccably raised leg. If the wheels had received traction at that moment, the car would have rushed forward and knocked her over like a bowling pin. There is something to be nervous about.

At that moment, I needed to catch the car with the steering wheel and add gas so that there was enough wheel slip to continue sliding. But not too much. This was the difficulty. Knowing the proportions accurately takes practice.

First I had to find a suitable combination of steering reverse and throttle force, and then finally managed to stabilize the car. It was balanced and I could keep it sliding with small corrective movements of the steering wheel and a slight increase in pressure on the gas pedal to keep the rear wheels spinning.

To get even closer to Chloe and scare the crowd, I had to make the car slide on a smaller radius, which is almost the same as making a sharp turn with a shopping cart in a supermarket. The rear part needs to be turned, and the nose of the cart moves in the opposite direction.

I stepped on the gas to make the rear wheels turn even faster, thereby reducing their grip. At first, the car almost went into a U-turn, so I immediately turned the steering wheel in the opposite direction and caught it. After a while, I again managed to stabilize the car, and steering movements were reduced to a minimum.

As a result, the circle that I described around Chloe narrowed, and the crowd stared unblinkingly into the tiny gap between the bumper of the car and her kneecap. A little more gas at this moment - and the car would inevitably turn around; slightly less than necessary, and the wheels would gain traction, and the car would immediately rush forward. Ouch.

You should not count on the fact that the grip of the wheels with the road will be uniform on the site where they arrange performances on cars and the rear wheels can get, for example, into a puddle of antifreeze from a leaking radiator. I could handle it, but I needed to have a retreat plan in case my talent ran out.

To prevent Monaro from taking a bite out of Chloe, I moved the car a little wider. By turning the steering wheel to the left more than necessary to control the slip, and releasing the gas a little, I achieved partial adhesion of the rear wheels to the road. The slip angle decreased, and the car began to obey the steering wheel. Shifting to the left, I stepped on the gas again so that the rear wheels started to spin, and continued with the trick.

Step 1 Pass . Approaching the selected mark, stand sideways and make eye contact with it. Think about how to start the maneuver from the chosen position. The distance to the mark and the slip angle determine your next steps.

Step 2. Throw . As soon as you turn the steering wheel to the right, the rear of the car will go into rotation. Wait until the car turns around at an angle of 45 ° (with a slight correction in one direction or another, depending on the design of the car and other conditions). When you are sure that the rear part of the body has taken the desired position, reverse the movement of the steering wheel and “catch” it, and then slightly reduce the force on the gas pedal. It is necessary to catch such a position of the pedal so that the rear wheels continue to slip.

Step 3. Time to catch . When the car turns 45 degrees, you need to "catch" it, that is, stabilize the rotation, and achieve uniform movement. This is done by corrective movements of the steering wheel left and right. The goal is to balance the car and continue sliding. The difficulty is that the rear of the body is constantly in a skid. In order for the rotation to be stable, it is necessary to accurately act on the steering wheel, otherwise you will either start to “twist nickels” in place or correct the skid completely. You need to slightly release the gas at the moment when the angle reaches 45 °, so that the rear wheels engage the road for a moment, and at this moment you must have time to reverse the movement of the steering wheel. Then you need to press the gas again so that the wheels continue to slip. Continue to look at the selected mark all the time to maintain a constant angle relative to it.

Step 4 Setting . When you find a sweet spot, keep the line on track with small adjustments in throttle force and gentle steering movements. Your goal is to maintain a constant angle relative to the selected elevation. Your movements should ideally be kept to a minimum - let the machine do all the work.

Arc

When you describe a circle with a larger radius, the speed is higher, but keeping the car on the path is a little easier, since the path itself is longer. High speed increases lateral inertia, and it is easier to keep the rear wheels in a skid state. If, when moving along a circle of a large radius, the speed drops, the wheels will grip the road. If you notice a drop in speed, you need to correct it with the gas pedal, or narrow the radius. When moving along a circle with a small radius, the machine responds faster, but the requirements for movement accuracy increase.

Handlebar

It is not possible to turn the wheels more than the design allows - eventually the handlebar will hit the travel limiter, and this is a problem where every extra centimeter can help correct the trick. Drifting pros are redesigning the steering to make it easier to "turn the car sideways", but in the case of an unprepared standard car, you will have to use what is.

Brakes

In the drifting universe, brakes are used both for actual braking and for limiting movement when the rear wheels are slipping. Professionals of this sport actively use the technique of braking with the left foot. The right foot controls the gas pedal, while speed adjustments during the drift process are constantly needed. There is nothing left but to use the left foot to work with the brake pedal. Braking allows you to transfer weight to the front axle, which, in turn, makes it possible to slip in place and literally burn the rear tires, increase the angle of the skid and all that.

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