Motorcycle tire patch kits


Motorcycle Tire Repair | Tire Tools To Fix That Flat

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Universal Fit Universal Fit parts can be installed on various vehicles and may require modification.

Stockton Axle Adjustment Tool Metric

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Motion Pro RimShield II

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Motion Pro Valve Core Tool

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Stockton Aluminum Off Road Tire Combo Lever Set

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Motion Pro Rim Protectors

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Stockton Tire Air Pressure Gauge 5-50 Pounds Pen Stylus

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Stop & Go T-Handle Tubeless Tire Repair Kit

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Stop & Go Tubeless Tire Plugger With CO2

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Motion Pro Long Steel Tire Irons

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Motion Pro Wheel Axis Truing / Balancing Stand

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Motion Pro Fill Air Chuck

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Motion Pro Spoon Type Tire Iron

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Motion Pro Extra Long Steel Tire Iron

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Stop & Go Tubeless Puncture Pilot

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Motion Pro T-6 Trail Bead Buddy

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No-Mar Tire Mounting Lube Paste

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Motion Pro Enduro Tire Irons

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Stockton Tire Iron 3-Piece Set

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Stockton Tire Valve Tool

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CruzTools Digital Tire Gauge Tool

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Oxford CO2 Top-Ups

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Motion Pro T-6 Hex Axle Tool

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Motorsport Products Tire Changing Stand / Bead Breaker

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Motion Pro Wheel Alignment Tool For Harley

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Moose Racing 3-Way Valve Core Tool

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Stockton Tire Irons

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Stockton Spoke Wrench Kit

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Moose Racing Portable Tire Changer

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Stockton Valve Stem Puller

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No-Mar YellowThing Tire Bead Tool

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Oxford Valve Access Tool

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Stockton Tire Iron

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Motion Pro Ergo Spoke Wrenches

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Moose Racing BIB Portable Tire Changer

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Oxford Tire Gauge Pro

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BikeMaster 8" Tire Irons

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BikeMaster Tire Valve Puller

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BikeMaster Bead Breaker

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Stockton Tire Bead Holder

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Stockton 6 In 1 Spoke Wrench

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Motion Pro T-6 Combo Lever Hex Adapter 32mm To 27mm / 22mm

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BikeMaster Dial Tire Pressure Gauge

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The "Original" Gold Ice Screws

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Stockton Rim Protector

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Slime Valve Stem Cores

$3.19

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BikeMaster Tire Iron Spoon

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Motion Pro Tire Pressure Gauge Holder

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Oxford Digi Tire Air Pressure Gauge

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Motion Pro T-6 Combo Lever Hex Adapter 32mm To 27mm / 17mm

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CruzTools BMW Rear Axle Star Wrench Tool

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BikeMaster Tire Gauge With Hose

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BikeMaster Heavy-Duty Tire Iron

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Motion Pro Wheel Bearing Remover Set For HD

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BikeMaster Digital Tire Gauge

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Hardline Tread Doctor Sniper Kit

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Stockton Tire Spoon

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Slime Power Sports G2 Tire Inflator

$46.36

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Hardline Tread Doctor Tire Tool

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Out of Stock

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BikeMaster Valve Core Tool

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BikeMaster Tire Repair Kit

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Motion Pro Spoke Wrench

$17.95

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Slime 9 Piece Tire Plug Kit

$9.56

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Motion Pro Ergo Spoke Wrench Spline Drive

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Moose Racing Tire Repair Kit

$39.95

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Slime Pro Power Tire Inflator

$94.99

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BikeMaster Valve Stem Mounting Tool

$19.77

$21.95

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Slime 2X Pro Power Heavy Duty Tire Inflator

$127.16

$158.95

Sale 20% Off!

Slime 22 Piece Tire Repair Kit

$15.96

$19.95

Sale 20% Off!

1

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Motion Pro 35mm Blind Bearing Collet

$39. 99

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Moose Racing Tire Changer Tool Tray

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BikeMaster Steel Tire Irons

$15.27 $17.97

$16.95$19.95

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Slime 10-50 PSI Pencil Tire Gauge

$4.40

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Universal Fit Universal Fit parts can be installed on various vehicles and may require modification.

Oxford Spindle Key

$23.80

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Motion Pro BeadPro Forged Steel Tire Bead Breaker

$63.95

137

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Motion Pro BeadPro Tire Bead Breaker

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DYNAPLUG Ultralite Tubeless Tire Repair Kit

$29.99

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Stop & Go Tubeless Tire Shop Repair Kit

$52.94

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Motion Pro T6 Combo Lever Set 32/27/22/12/10mm

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BikeMaster 3-Piece Tire Iron Set

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Stop & Go Deluxe Tube-Type Motorcycle Tire Repair Kit Review

I always carry 18- and 21-inch spare tubes, along with the tools necessary to change them on the trail. Luckily, I have never needed a third tube to get myself or a riding buddy out of a trail flat situation. When I started riding the Ultimate Motorcycling Yamaha Ténéré 700 Project Bike, I found myself going deeper into the woods and with more than one or two other riders. The odds of multiple flats have gone up significantly.Stop & Go International has produced high-quality tire repair kits for over 40 years. Stop & Go has kits for tube and tubeless tires. I chose the Deluxe Tube-Type Motorcycle Tire Repair Kit, the company’s top-of-the-line offering.

The Stop & Go Deluxe tube repair kit contains three 9.5-inch steel tire irons, eight patches, a thumb buffer, a tube of glue, four threaded-end 16-gram CO2 cartridges with a cartridge discharge adapter, a plastic valve cap with core remover, and laminated instructions. This all fits in a durable zippered vinyl bag that weighs 2.5 pounds and measures 9.5-by-4-by-1.5 inches. Nothing can fix the hole created by a ripped-out valve stem, so rim locks are needed to keep your tire from rotating when the tube goes flat.When I rode the Ultimate Motorcycling Yamaha Ténéré 700 Project Bike home, I went through my storage boxes aptly marked “old stuff” and found my last set of spare tubes. They had been in that box for eight years, so the stems showed rust. They became my test tubes to attempt a practice repair in the comfort of my garage. I inflated the 21-inch tube with a hand pump and then punctured it with the tip of my pocketknife. I made sure to make the hole 1/8-inch, just like the hole I remember seeing in my tube from a buried nail in a Mojave ghost town.Following the instructions, I deflated the tube, roughed up the patch area, cleaned the area, applied the glue, waited for it to become tacky, and applied the patch. I rubbed the patch flat to make sure any air bubbles were out. I waited 10 minutes for the patch to fully attach and then got the CO2 cartridge ready.The instructions warn that you should not be holding anything with your bare hands when the cartridge empties, as it drops to minus 65 degrees and will frostbite your skin. To prevent that, the kit provides a hand wrap for the cartridge, and I used a channel lock to hold the end of the adapter tube. This was my first CO2 cartridge experience—trust me, everything freezes. Even if you have to take your shirt and a sock off to hold the cartridge and adapter, do it! The tube filled up. However, I couldn’t accurately check the pressure because it wasn’t inside a tire. Stop & Go claims each cartridge is good for about nine psi, depending on the size of the tube.Of course, a non-emergency garage repair is easy to accomplish. I didn’t test the tire irons, though they’re a proven basic design—look into Motion Pro offerings if you want to upgrade. However, this tube repair kit provides everything needed to patch a tube wherever it happens. Conditions are rarely ideal when we have a mechanical issue, so I always strive to have the right tools for trail repairs.At $40, the kit pays for itself in one use, even if it’s a product you hope you never use. The Stop & Go Deluxe Tube-Type Motorcycle Tire Repair Kit is now a permanent fixture in the panniers of Ultimate Motorcycling Yamaha Ténéré 700 Project Bike.

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There is not always a way to call a tow truck, and driving on a flat tire, “chewing” the rubber and killing the rim is at least uncomfortable.

Different types of tires

The very first replacement of rubber on a motorcycle or scooter gives reason to think - what is better in terms of quick repairs: tubeless ones that do not require wheel disassembly to eliminate a puncture, but leave the rider helpless if, along with damage, it “led” and flattened the edge of the disc? Or chambers - allowing sealing almost ring breaks (if only there were enough patches), but requiring the removal of rubber from the rim for this? The unequivocal answer is no. Few classics, straights or tourers today remain "loyal" to tube rubber models: tubeless tires are lighter, softer, warm up and cool down faster thanks to simplified heat transfer. In sports, more precisely - enduro and motocross, chamber - on the contrary, prevail: only spoked wheels can "play", withstanding strong alternating loads during landings and impacts.

The nuance is that a tire with a chamber can be put on any spoked or cast disc, and a tubeless one can only be placed on a cast one, because only it can ensure tightness. Tube – can be installed in a tubeless tire as an emergency measure. In case of major damage to the sidewall, cracks or curvature of the edges of the rim, this will make it possible, after pumping up the wheel, to reach the nearest tire service (and there already - straightening, balancing and other maintenance according to the rules). True, for such a focus, it is advisable to take a camera with a face value one less than the diameter of the disk, otherwise it will create folds inside that will rub for a couple of hundred kilometers. The resource of such a “treatment” is large - until the next puncture, like a new one.

Found a flat tire on the road - what to do


It depends on the magnitude of the damage whether it will be possible to eliminate it on your own, or whether you will have to “surrender” to the motorized tow truck. In tubeless - holes up to 5–6 mm are patched, in chambers - as much as there is enough glue and patches, the main thing is the condition of the tire. To determine the extent of the disaster - find a place where you can safely stop without violating traffic rules (where it is prohibited - you will have to sacrifice tires and drive on).

If the wheel deflates slowly, and the object that pierced it is still inside, you can try to carefully drive to the tire shop. A completely deflated "pancake" will have to be resuscitated on the spot, or - remove the wheel and take it to the service.

To find a hole in a tubeless tire, if it is very thin and not immediately visible, the wheel must be pumped up, slowly pouring water - bubbles will go. In place, tubeless tubes can be “harnessed”, or filled with sealant inside, without removing from the motorcycle.

With the second type of tires - more difficult. A torn balloon must be removed from the tire to detect a defect and seal. In a good way, the wheel must be removed from the motorcycle and disassembled on a clean, flat, hard base. Suppose such a “patch” can be provided even off-road, but how to remove the wheel on a motorcycle if it does not have a central stand? And shooting is not required. The motor must be carefully laid on its side, after making sure that the faucet is closed, gasoline does not flow out through the tank cap (antifreeze does not flow from the tank if the motor is “dropsy”), and removing the plastic or wardrobe trunk with fragile contents (if any).

You will have to unscrew the wheel from the motorcycle only if you need to replace the tire, or it is decided to patch the tubeless tube with a “fungus”. In the absence of a central stand, this will also have to be done on a lying bike, or - make this stand from improvised materials (bricks, stump, car jack), placing them under the crankcase protection from below, the central tube of the frame, the duplex jumper (but not under the plastic, itself engine crankcase or attachments!), under both footrests - if they are not folding, or - under the pendulum. Before removing the rear wheel on a motorcycle, the front fork must be loaded with something, or an even higher lining is made.

Tubeless tire repair

In a motorcycle tire fitting shop, tubeless tubes are repaired by cold vulcanization. They are removed, disassembled, the puncture site is cleaned from the inside, degreased, lubricated with glue and a calibrated “fungus” patch is inserted into the hole from the inside. The fungus itself is a thin plate of rubber with a “leg” tube in the center. The leg - by the guide wire is dragged through the hole of the damage, and the "hat" seals it.

After half an hour - you can put the tire back. The reliability of such a repair is high, the patch does not cause a significant imbalance, the service life of a sealed tire does not decrease.

This method is also applicable on the road, the main thing is to have the necessary equipment and materials with you:

  • Wrench for removing the front or rear wheel.
  • Compressor (or CO2 bottle), pressure gauge.
  • Fungi, glue activator, pliers, cutter (knife).
  • Sandpaper, or file scraper, degreaser.

The fungus repair procedure does not require much experience. The main thing is to keep it clean, fully clean the place where the patch fits, let the glue dry slightly to a dull finish and press (roll) the surface of the fungus with high quality, expelling all the air between the layers. If necessary, you can degrease the place before gluing with gasoline, but without the rest of the above, it will not be possible to fully carry out repairs.

The compressor is sometimes replaced by a small cylinder of compressed air or carbon dioxide. Unlike a mechanical pump, it will immediately create a “throw” of pressure, pressing the tire beads against the rim flanges (in emergency cases, even a fire extinguisher was used to pump flat tubeless wheels). When connecting the compressor, start the bike's engine before you start inflating the tire - let it idle. Otherwise, the motor can "land" the battery, and you will not start.

Manometer - needed for control. It is undesirable to pump over the repaired tire. It is recommended to "inflate" 0.2 atmospheres less than the nominal value. Inflating too little is also bad: a flat tire has a larger contact patch with the road, so the place of a fresh patch will deform more.

Other on-site repair

“Burning” a tubeless tube and sealing its internal cavity through a nipple are quick, simple methods that do not require special skills. To repair the damage, you only need the materials themselves, and how to pump up the wheel.

Filling with sealant


Now in Moscow, and not only, 6-5 varieties of cans with a sealant are sold - a quickly hardening "liquid rubber", with a volume of 800 to 250 ml.

Applying "Anti-Puncture" is simple: put a tube with a fitting on the nipple of the camera, turn the can over, and hold the button according to the instructions. Then - pump up the wheel, cleaning the nipple from the foam, roll it, making a full turn to distribute it.

The sealant is blown out with air into the puncture hole and clogs it, solidifying. After 20 minutes - you can go. Reliability of repair is high. Resource - until the next puncture.

Harnessing

If you have a compressor, start immediately pumping up the wheel, so it will be easier to work with a puncture, insert a patch, and it will swell faster.

Procedure:

  1. Having found the place of breakdown, you need to clean it with an awl, expanding the edges and making them rough. Screw the awl several times - along the thread, and pull it out - straight. For the last time, pre-lubricate it with glue and leave it inside the tire while you prepare the patch.
  2. Insert the flagellum into the hole of the needle (fork) to the middle. Having folded in half, generously apply glue to it.
  3. Pull out the awl and immediately insert the needle with the patch so that the ends of the “antennae” of the tourniquet still peek out a centimeter and a half.
  4. Turn the needle handle a quarter of a turn and pull it out, leaving the tourniquet inside.
  5. Wait for the glue to dry on the outside (2-3 minutes), cut clean the edges of the flagellum. Inflate the wheel completely.


You can go in 5 minutes, you just need to make sure that it doesn’t descend anywhere else.

Outwardly identical, repair kits for harnessing wheels can differ in price by almost half. This variation is explained by different configurations - one will have only three items, the other - six or seven.

A complete tubeless tire repair kit contains:

  • Raw rubber strips (“flagellums”) 3-6 pcs.
  • Awl with T-handle and abrasive leg.
  • Fork (needle) for installing the flagellum.
  • Adhesive activator.
  • Cutter for removing patch residue.

Regardless of the cost, you need to choose a kit in which the harnesses will be reinforced, and the awl - with a deep spiral winding (notch), and not a “needle file”. Inserting a flagellum is sometimes easier with a regular thin screwdriver. If there is no glue in the kit, or it has dried up, the flagellum is moistened with gasoline.

Sealing a tire with a tube - repairing spoked wheels

At motorcycle service stations and car services, holes in the chambers are closed by hot vulcanization: a layer of raw rubber is applied to the cleaned, fat-free puncture site and, after squeezing it well, it is heated with a special “iron”. Iron - burns, layers - are fused into a single whole. Reliability of repair is high. The resource will be almost like a new one.

Cold vulcanization (patching) - used if the workshop is not equipped with a vulcanizer. In this case, the quality of the service and the reliability of the repair will depend on the accuracy of the master. For the convenience of gluing, the camera is completely removed in the service, but, I repeat, this is not necessary. It can be repaired on the spot in the same way (there are no other options except for replacing the camera), but without removing it from the motorcycle.


This can only be done if you have two metal mounting blades. At least one, the second can be replaced with another flat tool. You can still disassemble the wheel with a wide screwdriver and a “family” key wrapped with electrical tape. But this is only as a last resort, otherwise you can damage the cord.

Sequence of work:

  1. Lay the motor with care.
  2. Press the bead of a flat tire off the rim with your foot (stomp on it).
  3. Insert one mounting spatula between bead and rim.
  4. Press the paddle, moving its handle away from the tire - towards the center of the wheel.
  5. Pry off the protruding rim with a second spatula and leave it there.
  6. Insert the first paddle next to it and slowly move it forward, separating the disc and rubber.
  7. After loosening the tire, remove the deflated bladder from the tire. Lightly pump up and find the puncture site.
  8. Clean it, degrease it, grease it with glue. Let the glue dry for a minute.
  9. Peel the patch from the casing, apply it to the adhesive, squeeze it (you can step on it with your foot), or roll it with a hard roller.
  10. Wait 2-3 minutes, pump up the camera to check if it is poisoning or not.
  11. If everything is normal - completely bleed the air, fill the cylinder inside, moving it away from the edges of the disk, pump up a little again (important).
  12. Insert one spudger between the bead and the metal and "flip" the tire edge back into place. Leave it as a retainer. The second is to pick up the next fragment of the board, throw it over. Continue until there is 10-15 cm of edge remaining. Remove the first mounting and "wrap" the rest - all at once.
  13. Inflate the tire to check.

The fencing must be carried out twice as carefully and more slowly than dismantling, lubricate the side with water or soap, “help” more with your hands, otherwise there is a risk of picking up the edge of the chamber with a spatula and tearing it.

Important! If the wheels of the motorcycle are equipped with tow bars - before pressing the tire bead from the rim, you need to loosen this tow bar! But do not unscrew the nut completely, do not disassemble to the end.

A standard “first aid kit” (a set for repairing classic motor rubber) contains only patches and glue, so it is advisable to supplement it yourself with a piece of “skin” or a needle file. You can degrease with gasoline, or apply a little glue first and wipe off immediately, rolling up the dust with it.

Motorcycle wheel repair yourself and in the service - what is the difference

Now there is no shortage of specialized motorcycle workshops not only in Moscow - in all major cities there are motorcycle helpers who help motorcyclists directly on the track, or tow to where you can quickly change the camera, or patch the tubeless correctly, so that there is no trace left. Where there is a guarantee.

Self-replacement of a tire on a motorcycle requires a certain physical condition, and for the first time - a “kilometer of nerves”. At the service station, instead of you, automation will “sweat”, which will not lock up the board and will not scratch the disc coating with a spatula. The main thing is to do it quickly (if you need to go urgently, the price sometimes does not matter).

Repair at the service - may be the only possible one if, due to driving on a flat tire, the tire nipple is turned and torn off. Especially if he flew off and got lost, but there is no spare. In mototiremontazhke - there is always a set of consumables for any wheel diameter. In the same place, in extreme cases, you can buy a new tire, or a used dokatka.

In addition to the patch, for normal operation of the wheel, balancing must be ensured. This is generally a useful procedure during any change of rubber, otherwise if there is a strong imbalance, the wheel bearing will inevitably break due to vibrations, and the hands will quickly get tired and “buzz” after long rides.

How to ride a motorcycle with repaired tires

The first couple of tens of kilometers - do not drive, go at the speed of the stream.


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