Last update: Monday, September 23, 2019
In this part of the guide to My Summer Car, you will learn where to find the wheels with tires for the Satsuma. We present the exact path to the site with the wheels and show how to find the wheels on the site. We will tell you what to look for when collecting the wheels in My Summer Car.
When you first look in your garage, you will see first of all that all the wheels are missing. There's the body, lots of parts in the garage, but no rims with tires. In the current version of My Summer Car, they are hidden, and to get them, you have to go on a small expedition - the same as for the car Ruscko. If you can wrap it all up, you can connect the trip to the store, or for the Ruscko, with looking for the wheels. Remember, however, the wheels take up a lot of space, and it can be difficult to push four tires with other large times in the tractor.
If you have a lot of money, you can order new rims from the catalog in the garage, and buy tires at Fleetari workshop. Remember that you will need new tires in order to successfully pass the technical tests after completing the vehicle.
Going for the wheels, remember to set out before noon to avoid being caught by darkness. You will also need a larger car - a van, a Rusco, or ultimately a tractor. You can learn how to find and run these cars in the Playable Vehicles section. You can't use a bike to carry the wheels. I mean you can, but you'd have to take one wheel at a time.
Most importantly - do not forget to bring the SLEDGEHAMMER! You'll find it in the garage next to the table. This is an absolute must-have - if you don't want to lose time, do not forget the hammer!
No wheels without a hammer! Don't forget to take it with you.
The road to the place where the wheels are is the same as for the Ruscko, or to the store - choosing the path on the right side of the lake.
Go to the train tracks and: either you take the shortcut and go along the tracks to the left, or you go a little further to the intersection and turn left there, towards Loppe.
After passing a certain section of the road, there will be a garage on the right, and you will reach the next intersection with only one sign, to Perajarvi. Turn left there.
Go further and pass through a small bridge.
Just behind the bridge is a branch of the road to the right - turn there.
You'll get to some buildings. You're looking for a big, purple building.
The doors are boarded. Now we need the hammer. Take it and press F to go into user mode. Click on the doors until they reveal the entrance.
Immediately on the right you will see the stairs leading to the second floor - go through them.
When you go to the attic, stay on the right side. Now you need to be very careful - in the center under the beam there is a wasp nest. If you get too close - you'll die.
Crouch and slowly walk along the right wall to the end of the building where you will see a bunch of wheels.
Once you get there, you don't have to take the stairs every time. Use the fact that objects and textures are a bit loosely connected - put the wheel outside the right wall and throw it out into the street.
After all, you should see this view below:
Load the wheels and go home.
Satsuma with four wheels.
The old found wheels are good for the initial testing of the car, they are no good when it comes to passing technical tests. Unfortunately, new tires can only be bought at Fleetari workshop, the one you've passed by when driving to the shed. To replace old tires with new, load them onto a vehicle and drive to the workshop during its working hours i.e. from 8 to 16, Monday to Friday.
Put them on the table next to the mechanic.
There is a catalog at the checkout. Reach the page with tires by clicking on the arrows.
To pass the check-up, you need either standard road tires (STANDARD ROAD TIRE) or more expensive GOMMER GOBRA ROAD TIRE. The remaining ones are rally tires that can be bought in the future to serve as a second set. Select the chosen set and click on PAY NOW to finalize the order, which will take some time.
Fulfilling the order takes up less than a day. It is best to go back home and wait for a phonecall from the workshop, which will inform you that you can go pick up the tires. You can pick up your tires from the counter.
Title: My Summer Car
Developer: Johannes Rojola, Amistech Games
Publication Date: Early Access, October, 2016. Full Release (anticipated) Q4, 2021
Early Access available on Steam
I know what you’re thinking. Video game reviews on a car site? But My Summer Car is a video game about a car. Not just any car, but the kind of old jalopy we just love around here at Car Talk.
The premise seems straightforward. You’re a 19-year-old kid in Finland whose parents have gone away on vacation “until they get bored and come back.” There’s a rusty old heap of a car, completely disassembled, scattered around your garage, and your goal is to put it back together, fix it up, and enter it in a rally.
But you quickly discover that what sounds straightforward is anything but. As developer Johannes Rojola says, “I am making this game because this game needs to be made. This is not made because this is fun game, but because it is NOT!” Truer words were never spoken. My Summer Car is the nitpickiest game of obsessive, over-the-top detail you’ll ever play.
"This car has unlimited possibilities," said no one ever.
As the game begins, you wake up and stumble outside the house to find a shell of a 1974 Satsuma AMP - the game’s version of an old Datsun 100A. Opening the garage, you discover car parts, seemingly hundreds of them, littering the floor and shelves, along with a set of wrenches.
It’s that wrench set that gives you the first hint that you’re going to spend a lot of time being irritated while playing this game.
There’s a full set of wrenches in that box, and you can pick each one up individually. That’s because there’s a full range of bolt sizes you’ll need to turn to build your car, and you’re required to match the wrench to the hardware size. Of course, the game doesn’t tell you what size the bolts are because that might make the game easier and more fun. Instead, you have to guess, and your guesses will be wrong.
This game might be just a little persnickety.
Even if you’re an experienced wrench turner in real life, your size guesses will probably be off, because it’s harder to determine scale in the somewhat simplistic graphics of My Summer Car. There’s a joke about working on old Japanese cars, that all you need is a 10 and 12mm wrench and you can assemble about 90% of the car. That joke must not have made it to Finland, because you’ll find all sizes from 6 to 15mm.
If you’re keeping score, that means you could guess wrong eight times with every bolt. In short, you’ll spend about half your assembly time going back and forth between the part you’re trying to attach and the wrench box, swapping out sizes until you hit on the right one.
Not so bad, you might be thinking. How many bolts are on this thing anyway? That’s where the intricate detail of the game comes in. Almost every real-world fastener is replicated. Not just the major ones, like head bolts and lug nuts. You’ll even find yourself attaching clutches, brakes, and even crankshaft bearings, because like the rest of the car, the engine is completely disassembled at the beginning.
Almost done! Except, not even close to done.
Once you’ve got the engine built - and this will be hours if not days after you start - you can’t just pick it up and put it in the car. You have to attach it to an engine crane, pump the crane high enough to clear the car, then wiggle the mill into just the right position and bolt it down before you unbolt it from the crane.
And you’re still not done - now you have to install all the accessories; fuel pump, brake and clutch hydraulics (miss just one line nut and you’ll leak fluid everywhere), even the steering column and seats need to be installed before you can drive the car. But you can’t just grind through the car’s assembly in one power session because that might be lighthearted fun, and this game actively runs from such frivolities.
As you’re assembling the car, you find yourself managing all the other aspects of the game, included seemingly only to add a layer of difficulty and irritation on top. It’s not enough to just build the car like a normal pretend video game car builder, because your character is treated as a regular human. He has to eat, stay hydrated, sleep, reduce his stress, keep himself relatively clean, and even use the bathroom. Failure to address any of these concerns for too long generally results in death. Forget to eat? You die. Forget to drink water? You die. Forget to pee? Yep.
Die. In fact, the only metric that won’t kill you is dirtiness, but you’ll find yourself showering anyway because getting too foul attracts flies, and the buzzing gets annoying.
Possibly the most obnoxious metric to keep under control is stress. Your stress rises no matter what, and you have several remedies to deal with it, none of which are particularly ideal. You can drink alcohol, which leads to drunkenness, simulated by blurred graphics and a swaying camera, making it hard to build that car until you’re sober. You can smoke cigarettes, but that leads to addiction which the game renders by making your stress bar increase even faster than usual.
You can even swear, which has the dual advantage of reducing your stress meter slightly and teaching you how to say bad words in Finnish, because it’s important to be a life-long learner. But swearing enough to drop your stress to zero takes a long time, and your finger will get sore from spamming that button over and over.
The most effective method for stress reduction is, big surprise given the game’s nationality, using the sauna.
But it’s also the most exasperating and dangerous. Here, I’ll go through all the steps you have to take in order to de-stress the Finnish way. It’ll give you a good idea of how ridiculous the game can be. Open the sauna door, grab the bucket, and bring it into the bathroom. Put the bucket under the faucet, turn the faucet on, and wait for it to fill. Turn the faucet back off, then bring the bucket back into the sauna. Crouch down and look at the bottom of the stove. Turn the temperature dial all the way up. Turn the timer dial all the way to the right. Close the sauna door and wait several real-time minutes until the thermometer indicates the sauna is at temperature. Now, grab the dipper, equip the dipper, “sit” on the sauna bench, and dip the dipper into the bucket. Throw the water on top of the stove (there’s an aiming dot which, probably intentionally, does not actually show where the water will go, so you will have to figure out where to aim by trial and error) to create steam. Do that over and over again until your stress bar drops to zero.
Unequip the dipper and drop it on the bench. Crouch down to turn the thermostat and timer dials off; if you don’t, the sauna might overheat and set fire to the house.
Did I leave the sauna on again?
If that sequence sounds absurd, just know that there’s a similarly insane list of steps for everything else you do in the game, and most of those activities are not optional, and they all intentionally get in the way of doing what you really want to do, which is build the damn car.
Speaking of building the car, you’ll at some point doubtless notice that its wheels are nowhere to be found. That’s because they’re inexplicably stored in an abandoned house on the other side of a lake from your garage. You’ll need to drive there - the game gives you several working vehicles in which to do so, but only two, a moped and a tractor, are available from the beginning. This is a good example of the brilliant way in which the developer goes out of his way to irritate you. Assuming you know where the wheels are (because you cheated and read a guide), you’ll hop in your tractor, attach a trailer to it, and meander over to the abandoned house.
This will take a long time, because you live on the end of a peninsula jutting into a large lake, and you have to drive to the ring road around the lake, then drive all the way to the other side of the lake, all in a tractor that doesn’t go very fast at all.
Once you get there, you’ll be glad you brought the tractor, because you need to use its loader forks to bash in the door of the boarded up house. You’ll find the wheels in the attic, but you’ll also find a nest of wasps. You’ll know you found it when your vision narrows and you die; your character is allergic to wasp stings, because of course he is.
Now you’re in a pickle, even if permadeath is off, because you find yourself back at your house, but the tractor is all the way on the other side of the map. Good thing the moped is here, but it’s easy to fall off, which will kill you unless you’re wearing a helmet. Assuming you manage not to die on the bike, you realize you need to take care of the wasps before you can get your wheels, which means you need to go to the store (many minutes ride from the wasps) and buy a fire extinguisher with which to spray the nest.
Best to do it at night when the wasps are more dormant, but you can only buy the fire extinguisher during the day when the store’s open, so now you have to sit around waiting for dark, and there’s no way to accelerate time.
You can risk spraying the nest during the day, but you might not wipe the wasps out before they wipe you out, and now there’s another vehicle stuck on the other side of the lake. Running out of vehicles near your house is bad, because it means you have to "walk" back to one of the lost vehicles to retrieve it. This can take over an hour if the distances are great enough.
Once you finally retrieve the wheels and all the vehicles you lost getting killed by insects, and you have the car completely assembled, including all the wiring connections which are nearly impossible to find (and if you attach the negative battery cable before the positive, you’ll probably set it on fire), it’s time to fill it with fluids and start it up. Simple? Of course not.
The carburetor needs adjustment, and unless you bought the fuel/air gauge you’ll have to do it by sound.
Screw it up and you’ll fail inspection which increases your stress. The front alignment needs adjustment, and if you get that wrong the car will be hard to steer and you’ll probably crash, which will damage the car and you’ll have to either tow it back home, or repair it in the field. Believe it or not, I’m skipping a lot of detail here. Really, I’m only scratching the surface.
Speaking of damage, many of the parts you started with are old and worn. They’ll break, and then you’ll have to take things apart to replace them. Not so bad with the carburetor, but replacing the clutch gets obnoxious because you have to remove it from the car, disassemble it, reassemble it with the new parts, then reinstall it. Savvy players will buy all the new parts they can before they assemble the car, but that takes money which leads to another game feature, earning a living.
As a teenager in a remote area of Finland, job opportunities are few and far between. You’ll find yourself earning cash by delivering firewood, which you must first chop, one piece at a time, then load, one chunk at a time, into a wagon, and slowly drive it to the customer.
Needless to say, this takes a very long time. A quicker cash earner comes after your drunk uncle loses his license and gives you the keys to his sewage pumper truck. You can then wander the countryside sucking people’s septic tanks dry. This, of course, increases your dirtiness and stress metrics, and is potentially fatal as it’s astonishingly easy to fall into the tanks. The process for actually sucking sewage is just as intricate as those described above, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a good way to quickly earn money as you make the rounds of the map.
Yep. This is my life now.
That money can’t all go toward car parts, of course. You also need to buy food, drinks, 2-cycle gas for the moped or a motorboat if you want to take shortcuts across the lake, gas or diesel for the other land vehicles, and several other almost mandatory purchases. Oh, and you have to pay the electric bill or the utility company will shut off the power, which not only disables the lights, but also the sauna and the faucet, so you can’t deal with your thirst and stress bars until you pay up.
And when the power comes back on, some fuses will blow and you’ll have to go buy those and replace them. It’s a good thing the game teaches you Finnish swear words, because you will be using them yourself almost every time you play.
With all that buying, you might wish you could steal stuff in the game. The good news is, you can! There’s a slot machine in the bar, and you can attach a tow rope to it and yank it out with a vehicle, then help yourself to the money inside. But if you get caught, you’ll be tossed in jail, where you will have to sit for your entire sentence. These can span days. In-game time is set to one hour equaling five minutes of real time, which means a four-day jail sentence means you get to play a game about staring at a jail cell wall for two hours. And some sentences are longer than that.
But despite all the intentional annoyances, the game’s warped sense of humor and the reward of finally finishing that car and blasting it down dirt roads makes it, to some anyway, all worthwhile.
Finishing the car build actually makes you feel, as much as any video game can, like you’ve accomplished something, and the amount of bizarre activities and situations to discover makes for a game that you find yourself quitting in frustration innumerable times, only to crawl back hours later, sheepishly asking for more. If you even get around to quitting; the only way to save is to find one of a few toilets or outhouses scattered around the game - saving anywhere else is not possible. By the time you make your way all the way to a loo, you might well have run across just one more thing you want to do before you quit.
This is how you save your game. No, really.
My Summer Car is available on the Steam distribution platform, whose users have somehow generated over 33,000 mostly “very positive” reviews. If you’re a masochist, or just like quirky, oddball entertainments, it’s worth trying. Just try not to burn your house down until you’ve finished building the car.
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The motorist's budget is hit the hardest when you have to buy both summer and winter sets of tires within one year.
For example, the popular Nissan Qashqai is equipped with 225/45 R19 tires in the maximum configuration, a set of the middle price category will cost about 50,000 RUR.
But there is an option to save money and buy used tires. This article will tell you how to safely buy used tires and when you shouldn't. nine0003
Or the season has changed.
We wrote in detail about how to assess the condition of tires and understand when they need to be changed in a separate instruction. Before you start looking for tires, it is important to be able to read their parameters. The most important in this situation are the size, manufacturer and model of the tire. nine0003
If the task is to buy a set of four tires, then it is important to respect the size. If you damaged one tire, you will have to look for exactly the same one: two wheels of the same axle must have tires with the same tread pattern, and this is possible only in the case of tires of the same model.
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How to save money on buying car tires and wheels?
Tire parameters important to look for: width, profile height and rim diameter Tire manufacturer and model According to Avtostat, an average car in Russia drives 17,500 km per year. Let's take the average wear resistance of tires according to the Treadwear index - 320 and calculate how long a new set of summer tires could theoretically last.
Every 100 index units is 12,500 km, which means tires are rated for 40,000 km. Assuming that the summer kit is used for 6 months out of 12, the mileage for six months is 8750 km, and the kit is enough for 4.5 seasons.
If the annual mileage is 30,000 km, then the summer kit should wear out in 2.7 seasons. But I have not met people who change tires in the middle of the season: either they change them in the spring, or they drive them until autumn. nine0003
Judging by Yandex Market, the average popular tire 205/55 R16 costs 5500 R, which means that the set is 22 000 R. Let's round up 2.7 to three full seasons. One season costs Rs. pay more than 14,000 R. How to evaluate the tread depth on a used tire, we will tell a little later. nine0003
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These are very average values, but still usable. There is no perfect formula, operating conditions and driving style are very different.
Buying used tires will allow you not to get into a loan if a new set is too expensive. Or it will help those who know for sure that at the end of the season they will change the car: there is no point in buying new tires for the next driver. However, the theoretical calculation does not take into account your travel time for the next purchase and the risks of buying a bad kit. If you plan to drive a car for at least two years, buy new tires. nine0003 Velcro on stamped disc. A set of tires and wheels - 3000 R. I took it to change the car into it for the duration of a long body repair. It was a pity for me to leave the car on the expensive original casting. I had to spend two weeks searching, look through hundreds of ads and once go to the other end of the city. When the wheels are no longer needed, I plan to sell for 6000 R
At first glance, selling tires is illogical. Tires need to be worn out completely and then disposed of, but the market for used rubber is huge.
It has several types of sellers with very different offers. nine0003
Companies that sell used tires from Europe and Japan. Despite the ban on the import of used rubber, which has been in effect in the Eurasian Customs Union since January 1, 2010, this business is booming. The main thing is to prove that tires are not hazardous waste and they are not imported for recycling. Therefore, on Avito and various sites, many offices offer used tires of various brands, sizes and models.
| Benefits | Defects |
|---|---|
| Huge selection of summer tires Advice available, professionals know their product Usually there is a tire service on site Safer online shopping. Many sell by bank transfer as a full-fledged online store Tire warranty until the first tire fitting, a defective tire will be changed to a good one or money will be returned | nine0081 There is almost no choice of winter tires: no studded and little friction - Velcro.
Here are some of the advantages of specialized stores that sell used tires:
But there are also disadvantages:
nine0016 Dealers and tire shops. They differ from the first ones in scale - they are much smaller, and also in that they trade at best on the scale of one city. Often the base for such activities is a tire shop. They buy cheaply at Avito or from tire fitting clients, sell more expensively at Avito or other tire fitting clients. nine0003
There are also not very pleasant scenarios: an unscrupulous tire fitting worker offers to dispose of a completely normal set of tires “out of friendship” and gets it for free. For another client, the same kit “very much nothing, two seasons will definitely pass” costs 15,000 rubles.
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A typical tire shop that sells rubber for emergency replacement of a damaged tire. The choice is small, storage is not according to the rules: direct sunlight damages tires. But there are situations when there is no choice
Individuals who sell unwanted tires for a variety of reasons. Here are the main ones:
nine0016 | Advantages of | Defects |
|---|---|
| You can search for tires by car make and model, not just size With a little luck, you can make a super bargain | It will take a long time and carefully to choose among ads Many do not know what they are selling (mistakes in tire names, sizes and models are normal) A rare seller agrees to tire fitting in his presence, everything will have to be checked by himself and by hand Many scammers: they can offer to leave an advance payment and disappear or send an erased kit instead of what is in the ad No warranty on tires |
Here are some of the benefits of buying used tires from individuals:
But there are also disadvantages:
Universal ad platforms: Avito, Yula and others. Here is the largest selection of used tires.
Both private traders and professionals sell. Despite the convenient application and filters, it takes a lot of time to search. Don't expect every seller to list the model correctly. Bridgestone Potenza can become just "Bridge Stone" - and this is not the worst option. nine0003
You will have to scroll through a huge number of ads with completely worn-out tires that are only suitable for recycling. Unfortunately, no filters will save you from this. Looking for tires on Avito is like looking for a treasure: you have to dig a lot, and no one guarantees a reward, but some are lucky.
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Adjust the filter by size - so you will have more chances to find the tires you need You can no longer drive on such tires: they are worn out to the limit marks, this can be seen even in the photo. Plus, the sidewalls are very worn out. But the seller still thinks that he can get 3000 R for them Websites for car sales announcements: "Avto-ru" and "Drom".
There are few private ads here, mainly specialized stores operate on such sites.
Droma has the largest selection of used wheels and tires from Japan in the country. Drome offers a good customer protection service and acts as a purchase guarantee: if you receive worn or damaged tires, the site will return the money. If everything is fine, they will be transferred to the seller.
At the time of writing the article on Avto-ru, there were only five private ads for the sale of tires of the common size 205/50 R17 throughout Russia. It makes no sense to look for tires from private traders on this site. Source: Avto-ruCar club sites: forums, chats, Drive-2 — places where representatives of car clubs communicate. Sometimes it can be difficult to find the site itself. This can be a group on Vkontakte, a chat on Telegram or WhatsApp.
There are fewer offers here, but they are more interesting, more likely to find a good set. It is not customary to post completely junk for sale in communities or to greatly inflate the price: the ad will be discussed, criticized, or even deleted altogether.
But don't forget about safety. You should not buy something without verification or send the entire amount to a stranger in another city. It is usually customary to ask a friend of a teammate to go look at the kit and make sure that the tires are sent. Here, as a rule, you can place your ad on the purchase of the necessary tires and wait for responses. nine0003
There is a flea market on Drive-2. It is not very popular, but it is worth looking into it: there are filters separately for disks, wheels and tires, you can specify the dimensions.
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Special online stores and car disassembly. In most cases, such sellers open an official representative office on Avito, but some sites are still working. They may have rare tires or a more interesting price. Large auto-dismantlers rarely sell tires - they mainly sell sets of wheels. The condition of the tires on the rims is most often mediocre: a car is not sent to scrap on good tires.
nine0003
Tire shops and car services. It's hard to find interesting deals on tires here, it's not their business. Tires in a tire shop are usually bought in emergency cases: when one or more tires are damaged, but you need to somehow drive a couple of weeks to pay.
Price. Before buying used tires, it is better to check the price of new tires of the right size. Tires from young Chinese brands are very cheap, and the market for used tires is overheated and overpriced. It is impossible to unequivocally answer which is better: a new tire from an unknown manufacturer or a used tire from a well-known brand. But it is necessary to compare, study reviews and weigh everything. nine0003 At first glance, an excellent offer. A set of fresh tires 215/55 R17 with 20% wear for 18,000 R. But the indicated balance of 6 mm is about 30% wear. The remaining tread of the new tire is 8 mm, the tread limiter bar has a height of 1.
6 mm. The tire is worn 2 mm. Usable tread depth: 8 mm − 1.6 mm = 6.4 mm. 2mm from 6.4mm is 31% wear. Source: Avito But then it turns out that the new ones are very inexpensive. The remaining 6 mm is two-thirds of the tire resource, which means that buying such a kit costs no more than 16,000 R. Source: Yandex Market
Manufacturer, model, size, indices and other features. Be sure to check all tire specifications - everything that is indicated on the sidewall. The seller may not understand tires well or deliberately lie. Carefully inspect each tire. For example, you can accidentally buy a set of four tires, where three will be with runflat technology and one without it. If buying tires remotely, always ask for individual photos of each tire in full detail, or even better, a video.
Tire year. Among the advertisements of specialized stores, there are often tires that are more than 5 years old. Tires may have excellent tread residue, but it is better to refrain from such a purchase.
The older the tire, the worse its properties and the greater the chance of hidden damage: cracks, delaminations and ruptures.
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The tire release marking always looks like this: the first two digits are the week of production, the second two are the yearTread depth. It is not necessary to measure the residual depth "by eye", it is better to buy a special device or use a caliper. The standard tread depth of new summer car tires is 7-8 mm, winter tires are 8-10 mm.
About tires that are long overdue for disposal, they wrote above: summer tires less than 4 mm or winter tires less than 5 mm should not be bought "for the season", it is not safe.
Digital Tread Depth Gauge is a simple and cheap instrument. It will help to accurately measure the residual tread depth and adjust the price of a set of tires. Source: Yandex Market Tread condition, damage and repairs.
Do not buy tires with uneven tread wear. They will not be able to provide a complete drainage of water from the contact patch with the road, it is unsafe to ride on them. Severe cuts or even the absence of individual tread fragments will also be a reason to refuse a purchase. Without a specialist, you run the risk of buying a tire that you cannot use.
But do not be afraid of well-repaired punctures. Tires with patches on the inside of the tread part can be bought, this will not affect further operation. You should not buy tires on which punctures were repaired with a tourniquet. nine0003
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Obviously, this tire is no good: there is almost no tread, the studs are completely worn out. The central part is almost completely missing, and the sidewalls are less worn. Maybe the tire was pumped. Surprisingly, they also sell such Cracks and delaminations.
Long longitudinal cracks, along the circumference of the tire on the sidewall or small cracks in the tread area - in any case, bad. Either such a tire was poorly stored, or it is very old. This is a particularly dangerous case, because such a tire can collapse while driving and cause a terrible accident. Cracks are not repaired, so you will have to refrain from buying. nine0003
Sidewall condition, damage and repairs. Hernias of any size, side cuts and patches on the side of the tire are good reasons to keep looking. You can't buy these tires.
Carefully inspect and feel the sidewalls of the tires. Unfortunately, not all defects can be found on a tire without a disk and without air inside. It will be ideal if you can mount tires on rims in a tire shop. Ask to balance the wheels and only then pay.
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How to choose tires for a car or crossover
If in doubt that the tires are intact, look for another option.
Remember that it is the tires that connect your car and the road.
Presence of spikes and their condition. It is not necessary to count every stud on a tire, it is difficult and time consuming. Just look at the tire: if it seems that there are about half of the studs on it or less, you do not need to buy a tire. Studded tires without studs won't get Velcro, so don't just look at the tread.
Studs on a tire that has already been driven for a couple of seasons look very different from new ones. They were worn off along the way, the seats were broken. In the background, you can see that the tire has already begun to lose studs. Even with sufficient tread, you can be left without spikes very quickly, it is better to look for another option Ads often offer used tires at an inflated price.
We have made a special calculator that will help you calculate the fair value of tires, regardless of the manufacturer, technical parameters of tires and their number in the kit.
nine0016 There are no strict requirements in the regulatory documents: it is recommended to use winter tires from December to February, and summer tires from June to August.
There are requirements for studded tires: they cannot be used from the first of June - for this they can be warned or fined 500 R. From winter to summer, they change shoes at an average daily temperature above +7 ° C. After this mark, winter tires wear out quickly and hold the road poorly. nine0003
Rules of the Customs Union "On the safety of wheeled vehicles"
In autumn - from summer to winter. It's time to change tires if the average daily temperature drops below +10 °C: summer tires become dull, grip becomes worse. In autumn, it is much more difficult to sign up for a tire fitting: the closer the frost, the longer the appointment. People are afraid of ice, the prospect of hitting someone else's car or flying into a ditch.
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Car tires are consumables. In addition to seasonal replacement, it is important to replace them as soon as they are worn out or seriously damaged.
When the tire is worn. Each car tire has a wear indicator - a special jumper between the tread islands. As soon as the tread wears off and matches the level of at least one of the indicator jumpers, it's time to change the tire. Such a tire is dangerous, especially on wet surfaces. nine0003
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Insufficiently high tread poorly removes water from the tire contact patch with the roadway. Where you can confidently drive 70–80 km/h on new tires, on worn tires you can lose control of the car already at a speed of 55–60 km/h.
Indicator bar on a tire that has been through a season and a halfSome manufacturers apply their own wear indicators in addition to the standard ones. For example, on Nokian tires, numbers are cut in the middle of the tread: the larger the number, the deeper the cut. nine0003
A relatively new tire will have a lot of numbers, a worn one or two will remain - the rest will be erased.
A drop with a cross is applied to the sidewall of the Continental tire. As soon as it is worn down to half, the tire should be considered worn out and replaced. But all these are rather exceptions - most tires do not have such indicators.
Wear may be uneven. If the tire has been inflated, the center of the tread will be worn off. If the tire pressure was too low, it will be relatively fresh and the sidewalls of the tread will be worn out. nine0003 Non-standard wear indicators. From left to right: Nokian with numbers - summer and winter, Continental summer - with a drop and a cross Tire that was pumped over: wear on the central part of the tread is much stronger
It also happens that either the inner or outer side of the tread wears out on one wheel. This means that the camber is broken - the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical plane. In this case, it is important to sign up for wheel alignment - this is a service during which the wheel alignment angles are adjusted.
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It happens that the angles of the wheels are not adjusted. For example, if the car has been in a serious accident and its power parts of the body or suspension parts are deformed. In this case, you will have to eliminate these malfunctions, and then go to the wheel alignment stand again.
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Sawtooth or comb wear occurs on winter tires if the toe-in is broken - the angle of the wheel in the horizontal plane. Sign up for a wheel alignment so that the same wear does not appear on the new tire. nine0003 Uneven tread wear. The tire was on a wheel with unadjusted camber Comb-shaped tread wear. Source: mashintop.ru
When the tire is damaged and it is noticeable. It is quite easy to damage a tire: cut the sidewall, run into a piece of reinforcement or get hit, in place of which a hernia will come out. All sidewall damage is a good reason to buy a new tire: repairs will be expensive and ineffective.
Damage to the working part of the tire - the tread - is less critical. nine0003
When damage is present but not visible. Hidden damage may appear on the back of the wheel. For example, a driver caught a hole, felt a good hit, got out, saw that everything was in order, and drove on. And on the reverse side, a piece of rubber was torn out and the cord became visible - the metal carcass of the tire. Such damages are found only when inspecting the chassis or at a tire fitting, and this is bad: they can cause an accident or serious damage to the car.
Service life of car tires. nine0066 The tire life recommended by most manufacturers is five years, but this does not mean that they cannot be used for the sixth year. The expiration date is not limited by any documents.
GOST R 52900-2007
Tire manufacturers estimate tire service life differently. Nokian provided the most detailed explanation: “Tire life is not defined by law, but tires can only be considered new if they have been manufactured within the last five years.
The recommended tire life is 6 years and the maximum is 10 years. Then the tire loses its consumer properties: grip deteriorates, vibration may appear on the body or steering wheel. nine0003
5 years
tire life recommended by most manufacturers
Storage location - less than a meter away from direct sunlight and heaters. In the sun, near the battery and in the rain, the tire will quickly lose its properties: the rubber will dry out and collapse. Permissible temperature - from -30 to +35 ° C, humidity - 50-80%. Do not leave the wheels dirty; they must be thoroughly washed before seasonal storage. Tires can be stored under a canopy in the open air for no more than a month. nine0003
GOST 54266-2010
The method of storage depends on the set: either tires separately or wheels as an assembly. Tires up to 205 mm wide can be stored in even stacks up to 2 m high. Tires from 210 mm are stored vertically - on edge.
Every three months, all tires, regardless of width, should be rotated to change the footprint.
GOST does not explain how to store the wheels as an assembly, but Nokian has a visual manual for storage. Continental recommends hanging wheels by rims or storing them in a stack, similar to tires, turning them over every 4 weeks. It is advisable to reduce the air pressure in the tire to 1-1.5 atm and not make stacks of wheels - a tire plus a disk - more than four pieces. nine0003
Nokian Tire Storage TipsPDF, 2.1 MB
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First of all, you need to decide which tires are suitable. All important characteristics are written on the sidewall of the tire.
The dimensions of the tire are important to consider when selecting it for a specific car and rim.
All options provided for by the design of the car are written on special plates. nine0003
Depending on the brand of car, they can be found on the gas tank flap or on the B-pillar in the driver's doorway. The recommended tire pressure is also written here.
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Decal with Mini John Cooper Works tire parameters in the doorway: size and recommended pressure at different loads Decal on the gas tank flap of the Skoda OctaviaTire sizes are indicated in the format xxx/xx Rx. They are on the sidewall of the tire. nine0003
The first parameter is the tread width in mm. The size step is 10 mm, always 5 at the end. Next is the tire profile, or its height as a percentage relative to the width. The width of a tire with parameters 235/55/R16 is approximately 129 mm, and for a tire 195/55/R16 it is 107 mm.
R - an indication of the type of tire, in this case, that it is radial. There are also diagonal ones, but this is an outdated design.
These have not been used for cars for a long time. The difference is in the design of the cord. A popular misconception is that R is a radius. nine0003
The last two digits are the diameter of the rim in inches, on which the tire can be placed.
It is undesirable to deviate from the tire parameters recommended by the car manufacturer. This can adversely affect handling, as well as cause the tire to rub against the wheel arch or suspension parts: this will damage the tire and increase the likelihood of an accident.
It happens that on the front and rear axles from the factory there are disks for rubber of different sizes. Usually we are talking about the width - the rear wheels can be wider than the front. In the people, such a set of disks is called a different-wide one. nine0003
Tube or tubeless construction. Previously, a car wheel consisted of three main parts: a disc, a tube, and a tire. The tire was responsible only for traction and overall strength, the chamber was a container for air.
This design had serious drawbacks:
Now you can find a tube tire on a car only in a museum or in your grandfather's garage: the technology is outdated.
Modern tubeless tires do not have these drawbacks. Special protrusions in the disks — hubs, for which the tire clings, help to maintain the tightness of the tubeless wheel.
Manufacturers still mark tubeless tires with a special tubeless mark, and those intended for use with a tube - tube type, but now these are only rare domestic models Cord construction type. Each tire is multi-layered, a single rubber product will not be able to provide the desired shape and strength. Therefore, inside the tire there is a cord - a kind of carcass.
The cord can be metal, synthetic fibers or textile threads. According to the method of laying the cord, tires are divided into radial and diagonal.
| Bias tire | Radial tire |
|---|---|
| 2 or more cords | 1 ply cord |
| Smaller footprint | Larger road contact patch |
| Tire heavier than | Tire lighter |
| Used on commercial vehicles | Used on passenger cars |
| Cheaper than | More expensive |
Bias
Radial tire
2 layers of cord or more than
1 layer of cord
Less contact stain with an expensive
SPECTION with an expensive
Tires
Lighter
are used on commercial equipment
used on cars
Cheaper
More expensive
Radial tire cords are parallel to the wheel circumference, on top of each other.
For diagonal tires, the cord layers overlap each other diagonally. Source: Kolobox DOT marking. The name comes from the American Department of Transportation - an analogue of our Department of Transportation. In 1978, this department approved mandatory labeling for all automobile tires, which includes Treadwear, Traction, and Temperature grades marked on the sidewall. Now most manufacturers use this system, selling tires without such marking is illegal in the USA. nine0003
Treadwear. Some people want tires to last as long as possible, others want good grip. So far, these qualities have not been learned to combine in one tire.
The wear rate of a tire is indicated by the Treadwear index. Typically, for products for passenger cars, this parameter ranges from 100 to 600. In terms of kilometers, this is approximately 10,000-15,000 km per hundred points. For example, index 240 corresponds to 24,000-36,000 km.
At the end of the range there will be tires that were used with a calm driving style. nine0003
Traction also shows the grip class, but unlike Russian traffic rules and technical regulations, the classification is based not on distance in meters, but on the deceleration coefficient - G, which the tire can provide. According to Traction, all tires are divided into classes according to their ability to effectively stop a car on wet asphalt and concrete: from the best AA to the worst C.
| Class | G on asphalt | G on concrete |
|---|---|---|
| AA | More than 0.54 m/s² | 0.38 m/s² |
| A | More than 0.47 m/s² | 0.35 m/s² |
| B | More than 0.38 m/s² | 0.26 m/s² |
| C | Less than 0.38 m/s² | 0.26 m/s² |
Class AA
G on asphalt
More than 0.
54 m/s²
G on concrete
0.38 m/s²
grade A
G on the asphalt
more than 0.47 m/s²
G on concrete
0.35 m/s²
B
G on asphalt
more than 0.38 more m/s²
G on concrete
0.26 m/s²
Class C
G on asphalt
less than 0.38 m/s²
G on concrete
0.26 m/s²
Temperature curve, Temperature. All tires are divided into three classes according to the resistance to heat generation during movement: A, B and C. Class A tires effectively remove heat at speeds over 185 km / h, class B - from 160 to 185 km / h, class C - from 137 up to 160 km/h. For passenger cars, there are almost no tires on sale, except for class A.
Run flat. This rubber has a thick and stiff sidewall. It can be driven up to 80 km at speeds up to 80 km/h after a puncture or side cut with a complete loss of pressure.
It is important that the machine is equipped with a tire pressure system, otherwise the driver may not recognize a flat tire, exceed the recommended speed, or drive more than 80 km, which at best will lead to damage to the rim, and at worst, to an accident.
Many vehicles come with runflat tires from the factory. Especially on those who do not have a spare tire. Such tires are 1.5-2 times more expensive than ordinary ones, they make driving less comfortable: due to the hard sidewall, such rubber smooths out bumps much worse and is heavier than conventional tires. nine0003
But you don't have to call a tow truck: you can almost always get to the tire shop on your own. If you drive on a relatively flat road, there will be no damage to the alloy wheel: it is still a few centimeters from the road surface.
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Load and maximum speed indices. Load Index is a two- or three-digit number that indicates the maximum weight that the tire can support.
The speed index is denoted by a Latin letter. It shows the maximum allowable speed that the tire can withstand. All indices are summarized in tables. nine0003
| Speed index | Maximum speed, km/h |
|---|---|
| L | 120 |
| M | 130 |
| N | 140 |
| P | 150 |
| Q | 160 |
| R | 170 |
| S | 180 |
| T | 190 |
| U | 200 |
| H | 210 |
| V | 240 |
| W | 270 |
| Y | 300 |
| Z | 300+ |
Speed index
Maximum speed, km/h
If you want to know how to read the load index, find your value in the table.
nine0002 1120
113
11503
114
1180
115
1215
116
12503
117
1285
118
1320 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000,000
121
1450
122
1500
| Load index | Weight per tire, kg | Load index | Weight per tire, kg | Load index | Weight per tire, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 62 | 265 | 83 | 487 | 104 | 900 |
| 63 | 272 | 84 | 500 | 105 | 925 |
| 64 | 280 | 85 | 515 | 106 | 950 |
| 65 | 290 | 86 | 530 | 107 | 975 |
| 66 | 300 | 87 | 545 | 108 | 1000 |
| 67 | 307 | 88 | 560 | 109 | 1030 |
| 68 | 315 | 89 | 580 | 110 | 1060 |
| 69 | 325 | 90 | 600 | 111 | 1090 |
| 70 | 335 | 91 | 615 | 112 | 1120 |
| 71 | 345 | 92 | 630 | 113 | 1150 |
| 72 | 355 | 93 | 650 | 114 | 1180 |
| 73 | 365 | 94 | 670 | 115 | 1215 |
| 74 | 375 | 95 | 690 | 116 | 1250 |
| 75 | 387 | 96 | 710 | 117 | 1285 |
| 76 | 400 | 97 | 730 | 118 | 1320 |
| 77 | 412 | 98 | 750 | 119 | 1360 |
| 78 | 425 | 99 | 775 | 120 | 1400 |
| 79 | 437 | 100 | 800 | 121 | 1450 |
| 80 | 450 | 101 | 825 | 122 | 1500 |
| 81 | 462 | 102 | 850 | 123 | 1550 |
| 82 | 475 | 103 | 875 | 124 | 1600 |
Pressure index is another name for the load index.
Euro label. Manufacturers put special stickers on tires. They have three parameters that are not written about on the bus itself. These stickers appeared in 2012. Since then, they have been on any tire sold in the EU. nine0003
The sticker complies with EC Regulation 1222/2009. This is a complex document with formulas and parameters like rolling resistance - it does not have the usual values like fuel consumption or braking distances. The sticker describes the tire according to three characteristics: noise level, fuel economy class and wet grip class.
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Noise level shows the noise level in decibels. One black sound wave is 3 or more decibels below the 2016 European norm. Two waves - at the normal level or quieter, but less than 3 decibels. Three - noisy tire, out of limit. nine0003
Fuel economy class. A is the most economical.
The lower the class, the more the tire resists rolling and the higher the fuel consumption. There is a 7.5% difference in fuel consumption between the most economical class A tire and the most "wasteful" class G. That is, for an average car with a consumption of 10 liters per 100 km and an annual mileage of 25,000 km, Class A tires will save up to 187 liters of fuel - 8000 R.
Grip. Same letters, but without color indication. This estimate was obtained when checking the braking distance on asphalt. The shorter the stopping distance, the closer the letter is to the beginning of the alphabet. The difference between A and G is more than 18 meters: A is the minimum stopping distance, B is plus 3 meters to A, C is plus 7 meters to A, D is plus 10 meters to A, E is plus 12 meters to A, F is plus 18 meters to A.
Sticker on a new tire Color markers on tires. There are another colored stripes on the tire tread - these are technological marks, they are of no use to the buyer.
These drawings guide the production line, and they can also show the batch and release date.
The most pedantic car owners may try to buy a set of new tires with identical stripes, but it is better to focus on the stamp with the release date on the sidewall.
Features of the choice of all-season tires. Theoretically, they can be ridden all year round. The rubber compound works in the temperature range from -7 to +15 °C. In severe frosts, rubber hardens like summer tires at temperatures below +10 °C, and in hot weather it becomes softer, like winter tires at temperatures above +7 °C. In any case, all-season tires are not suitable for either hot asphalt or ice ruts.
All-season tires are chosen when they want to save on tire fitting and buying an extra set of tires. This is true for crossovers and SUVs with relatively low annual mileage. nine0003
Features of the choice of summer tires.
There are models for quiet city driving. Such tires will help save fuel, please with a low noise level and will last three to four seasons. At the same time, they will not tolerate overheating, will not provide perfect grip on the road and will not allow you to drive a car with great comfort.
The opposite - tires for those who like to push the gas to the floor. Such tires will make noise, increase fuel consumption and wear out in one or two seasons. In return, the driver will get excellent grip and driving pleasure. nine0003
Features of the choice of winter tires. There are three types of winter tires.
studded tires are good for driving on ice and packed snow. They have relatively hard rubber, deep tread and studs. And they also hold the road well on asphalt: the spikes have been hidden in the tread for a long time.
Ideal conditions - ice cover above -15°C. The ice is soft enough for the spikes to grip most effectively.
Disadvantages: they are very noisy, they have a low speed index. Usually, you can drive on studded tires no faster than 160-180 km/h. And they are also banned in many European countries because they spoil the asphalt.
Scandinavian style friction tires, aka Velcro, studless and made for harsh winters. Rough tread pattern, soft rubber compound and many sipes - horizontal slots on the islands of the tire tread.
Ideal conditions are snow and ice below -15°C. They are noticeably quieter, you can move at a much higher speed on them. nine0003
Disadvantages: such tires wear out quickly, almost do not hold the car on melted smooth ice at temperatures above -5 °C. There is a small distance between the tread islands, such tires do not drain water well from the contact patch with the roadway.
Alpine type friction tires without studs and made for mild winters. There are 1.5-2 times fewer sipes on the tread, the grooves for water drainage are much wider.
This is the most wear resistant winter tire.
Ideal conditions - puddles, asphalt, -5 to +3 °C. Well remove water from the contact patch with the roadway. nine0003
Disadvantages: poor grip on any ice and packed snow.
According to the Rules of the Road, different tires cannot be put on one axle of a vehicle. This is considered a malfunction in which the use of a car is prohibited.
p. 5 of the Traffic Regulations of the Russian Federation: wheels and tires
At the same time, the rules do not prohibit installing tires of different brands and models on different axles of the same car, but it’s better not to do this. The car and all its systems are designed for the same tires with the same grip. nine0003
This is especially true for modern cars with many electronic assistants: stabilization systems, brake force distribution. You can drive on such a combination of tires, but no one knows how the car will behave in an extreme situation.
Like everywhere else, there are premium brands and there is something cheap. But cool brands have failed models, while budget brands have successful ones.
There is a lot of research and testing behind famous brand tires. Before entering the market, large companies test each new model in the most extreme conditions. Tires can be rolled on arctic ranges or in the desert. nine0003
Often, rubber is tested in the conditions of sports competitions and only then the technology is sent to the mass market. The more famous the manufacturer and the more expensive its products, the greater its budget for the development of new models.
There are also very cheap tires, often from China. They can directly write that they copied the tread pattern of a prestigious model, but this is not enough: there is also a rubber composition, cord design and other parameters.
Prices for tires of the same size may differ by multiples. The smaller the profile and the larger the width, the greater the difference.
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To look at something other than the brand and choose what you need, there is an algorithm:
Specialized shops. There is a large selection, manufacturers' catalogs and competent advice. This will appeal to those who buy car tires for the first time or are simply not very interested in the technical side of cars. There is a service here - there will be a guarantee for tires, there is tire fitting and seasonal storage.
The one-stop principle works: you can arrive on spikes and leave on a new summer and with an empty trunk. nine0003
Online hypermarkets and warehouses. Rubber is sold by large Internet sites and small shops. The option is suitable for those who want to find cheaper, are ready to take risks and waste time for this. Here, the entire responsibility for checking the parameters of the tire, the date of its release and, in general, compliance with the order lies with the buyer. If something goes wrong, you will have to take all four tires to no one knows where and change them. Tire fitting and storage is the buyer's concern.
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Flea markets, car club forums and ad services. Avito, Yulia and specialized automotive forums offer a lot of rubber. You can buy a completely fresh set at a good price, or you can buy rubbish and expensive. There is a great risk of buying tires with hidden damage: the fact that the tire is crooked will only be opened at a tire fitting, many hernias will be visible only on an inflated tire.
Sometimes the ability to measure depth and read parameters does not help. To put the correct year on an old tire, there is a special stamp. The tread depth can be machined, and a tire that is white from old age can be treated with ink. nine0003
With the help of special equipment, you can even remove the remnants of the old protector and stick a new one. It remains to hope for the reputation of the seller and look at the goods that he sells or sold. I try to avoid those who sell used rubber all the time.
First of all, the size. The larger the diameter, the more expensive. But at the same time, the lower the tire profile, the more expensive it is. This may seem counterintuitive, as less material is used. nine0003
Tire inner layers and construction play an important role. Due to the low profile height, the sidewall of such a tire must be much stronger than the same tire with a high profile.
Tire make and model affected.
Rubber from large, famous brands with a century of history is more expensive, but the budget lines of well-known companies will allow you to save a lot. Tires of young, unknown manufacturers, especially Asian ones, will cost even less.
Tires with runflat technology are more expensive than conventional tires, because their sidewalls have special requirements. nine0003
Is it worth buying retreaded tires? It is almost impossible to buy such tires for a passenger car in Russia in 2021. The cord design of car tires for projector restoration is not intended, unlike truck tires, for which this is a very popular service. In some countries in Eastern Europe, you can buy retreaded tires in popular sizes, but their properties are mediocre: long braking distances, poor handling. nine0003
When is the best time to buy tires? The popular theory that tires are best bought between seasons is no longer valid. You won’t be able to save money this way: the price of tires almost does not change throughout the year.
The tire business is seasonally cyclical, and it is not worth hoping for discounts on studded tires and its wide selection in June. For the next winter season, it will be delivered in August, and summer tires in March.
But by the season, the freshest tires will be on sale. This is true for those who drive very little, or for sports tires. The fresher the tire, the better the grip will be: the rubber compound loses its properties over time. nine0003
Always make sure that your tire pressure is correct: it is critical to tire health. If you lose pressure, do not continue driving on an empty wheel: this may destroy the tire.
Try not to store tires and the car within half a meter of heaters.
Old tires cannot simply be thrown in the trash or buried. This is hazard class 4 waste, they must be disposed of. nine0003
GOST 12.1.007-76
Tires can be sold on Avito or other ad service.
You can only buy "euro-winter" for mild climatic conditions. 
