Time marches on, and so too does the wear on your motorcycle clutch.
Whether you are coming up on a factory service interval or are have a feeling that something is just a bit off as you work through your gears, the process of adjusting your clutch is a relatively simple endeavor. Regardless of your reason for diving in, the steps listed below will help you navigate the waters when adjusting the clutch on your Harley-Davidson Big Twin.
How To Adjust a Motorcycle Clutch
NOTE: Our example motorcycle is a 2014 Harley-Davidson Low Rider, but the process is going to be the same for whatever model of Big Twin you pilot.
Designed to protect the clutch adjuster mechanism from dirt, water, and particularly juicy airborne arthropods, the clutch cable cover (or “boot”) is the accordion-looking piece of rubber that resides about half way between your handlebars and the bottom of your Big Twin frame. For most Harleys that have a cable clutch, you will need to adjust the clutch cable prior to getting to work on the clutch itself. As noted, the cable clutch cover isn’t difficult to find, and once you do, all you will need to do is simply slide it up or down to reveal the clutch cable adjuster mechanism that takes shelter underneath.
You wouldn’t want to face the elements bare-ass naked, and neither does your clutch adjuster mechanism. Hence, the accordion-looking clutch cable adjuster cover. RevZilla photo.
With the clutch cable cover out of the way, you will need to add slack into the cable. Doing this is essential to ensuring that the cable has no affect on the clutch as it is being adjusted later on. By adding slack into the clutch cable, what you are actually doing is collapsing the cable housing that the cable pushes against. In doing so, you are removing any tension, and when complete you should be able to squeeze the clutch lever all the way without any resistance.
To add slack into the clutch cable, you will first want to take a wrench and lock onto the adjuster itself. In our example, that wrench is a 1/2 inch. With the wrench secured to the cable clutch adjuster, use another wrench to loosen up the jam nut that is secured directly to the top of the clutch adjuster. The jam nut is used to hold the adjuster in place, so in order to proceed, you will need to dial the jam nut all the way back creating room for the cable adjuster to be dialed back as well. Be sure to take the clutch cable adjuster all the way to the point that it bottoms out, thus releasing all tension on the clutch cable.
Before you can adjust slack into the clutch cable, you have to first roll back the jam nut that holds it in place. RevZilla photo.
Think of the derby cover as Steve Rodgers’ trusty shield. While there is no doubt that it looks fantastic when well polished, it is a purpose-driven piece of equipment that has one purpose above all others: to provide you with an easy access point to do this very job.
While Agent Orange and others had plenty of trouble separating Captain America from his shield, you should have no problem removing the derby cover from your motorcycle.
To remove the derby cover, your job should not require much more than unscrewing a handful of bolts holding it in place. That being said, there are a few things that you should keep in mind as you go.
Keep pressure on the derby cover when removing the last screw. Otherwise, it is likely to fall off. RevZilla photo.
Protip 1: If your bike is sitting on a jiffy stand, it is possible (though not probable) that, due to the angle, some of the primary fluid could leak out if it is overfilled. It is always a good idea to place a rag underneath your motorcycle to guard against gunking up any surfaces that you don’t want to gunk up.
Protip 2: Keep your hand on the clutch cover to support it as you remove the final bolt. More than one rider has had to learn the hard way that derby covers have a propensity for succumbing to gravity immediately after that final bolt is removed.
NOTE: In this step we are going to be talking about the clutch adjuster, which should not be confused with the clutch cable adjuster mentioned earlier.
Like the clutch cable adjuster, the actual clutch adjuster also uses a jam nut to keep everything in place. To break this free, you will want to use a wrench for the nut itself (in our case an 11/16) as well as a hex key to hold the clutch adjuster in place as you do. It's entirely possible that your motorcycle will need a screwdriver rather than an Allen key. For simplicity's sake (and to eliminate a multitude of text in parentheses) whenever we mention an Allen key in this guide, just replace that with "screwdriver" if your motorcycle necessitates the latter. Regardless of what tool you will use, before moving on to Step 5, where you will actually adjust the clutch, you need to be sure to loosen the jam nut all the way out.
Use a combination of your Allen key and wrench to loosen the jam nut on your clutch adjuster.
RevZilla photo.
At this point, you are ready to adjust the clutch. Using your fingers, tighten the clutch adjuster until it bottoms out. Do not torque it. Do not pinch harder and try to be sure it is really snug. When it bottoms out, stop. End of story. You have reached the desired destination.
Your fingers are the right tool for snugging down the clutch adjuster. RevZilla photo.
With the clutch adjuster bottomed out, insert your Allen key. As always, you definitely will want to check your factory service manual here for specifics, and when you do, it will likely give you a set point (1/2 turn) or a range (1/2 to 3/4 turn). The range of a turn can vary in search of a specific feel, however, as the wear level of parts and personal preferences all come into play. For our example, a general rule of thumb for four-, five-, and six-speed setups is to turn back the Allen key (counterclockwise) one half turn. So, if you insert your Allen key and it is pointing to six o’clock, you will pull your best Dr.
Emmitt Brown and wind it back in time to 12 o’clock.
A half turn back from the "bottomed out" position on your clutch adjuster is a standard best practice on many Harley Big Twins. RevZilla photo.
Once you have made the turn, run the jam nut back down by hand to tighten things back up. As you do this, be sure you keep the Allen key in position to hold the clutch adjuster steady. If you don't, it's likely you will inadvertently twist it out of the desired position. Finalize the step by using the wrench to fully tighten the jam nut. As with the rest of this process, do not over-torque.
With the clutch adjusted, snug down the jam nut with your screwdriver. RevZilla photo.
With the fight against clutch malfeasance won, it’s time to shield back up and reattach the clutch cover. When doing this on your Harley Big Twin, it is a pretty simple process.
Always start this process with your fingers to get the bolts going.
In addition to being easier and more efficient, it eliminates the chance that you will tighten down any individual bolt too soon. With all of the bolts in place use your screwdriver / torque wrench to put the finishing touches on things. Keep in mind that the order in which you do this can make a difference. At this stage, you will want to tighten down bolts that are opposite each other (as opposed to just doing them in order around the cover). Much the same as tightening the lug nuts on your car tires, working in this pattern helps to ensure that the cover evenly draws down against the seal.
When reattaching the clutch cover, it is important to tighten the screws in a star pattern (like you would with lug nuts). RevZilla photo.
NOTE: As a rule, you will always want to replace gaskets when breaking the seal on parts. Gaskets are cheap, so it’s well worth springing for new ones. That being said, when it comes to the gasket on your derby cover, they can often be reused (depending on condition).
If you do replace, it is likely that an aftermarket option like James Gaskets will look slightly different than the factory gasket from Harley. Not to worry, they do the same thing.
Some aftermarket gaskets will look different than their from-the-factory counterparts. Worry not, they do the same thing. RevZilla photo.
For this step in adjusting your motorcycle clutch, you will simply need to repeat Step 2 in reverse. If you squeezed your clutch lever to test the reduction of tension in Step 2, you will begin to see it creep back to its original position now. Do not fret, this is not the work of an invisible ghost of wild rides since past, it is merely the effect of tension returning to the clutch cable.
As you add tension back to the clutch cable, the clutch lever should return to its original position on its own. RevZilla photo.
To check your progress, you can simply keep tabs on the play in the clutch lever as you go.
Refer to your factory service manual, but typically, somewhere in the range of 1/16 inch is a good amount of free play. When you get the tension where you want it, re-tighten the jam nut to the clutch cable adjuster.
Re-snugging the jam nut to the clutch cable adjuster ensures you will keep the desired level of tension. RevZilla photo.
OK, OK. You're done(ish). While the excitement to get back to thundering down highways and intimidating those with lesser roars (like lions, dinosaurs, and fire-breathing mythical winged beasts) can be immense, don't forget to pull the cable clutch cover back into place before you do.
Protip 3: As these pieces of rubber get older, they tend to get bit grabby. Hit the base with a shot of silicone to make this process smoother.
A quick blast of silicone under the clutch cable adjuster cover makes it way easier to slide back into position.
RevZilla photo.
Adjusting the clutch on your Harley Big Twin is a relatively simple task that can help you dial in the feel that you like while saving you a few bucks by not necessitating that you hand over your bike to the shop every time you need to make a few tweaks. In the end, this process takes less time than ordering the pizza you will want to sit down and enjoy afterwards. So get the hand tools out, the silicone spray on the ready, and plan accordingly for that delivery of cheese and pepperoni goodness.
Oh yeah, and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to give our Gear Geeks a shout! We are here to help.
Is your clutch having problems engaging and disengaging? Do you feel inconsistency through the clutch lever when operating the clutch? A worn clutch basket could be the cause. In this article, we’ll look at diagnosing a worn clutch basket, review replacement options, and step through the process of replacing the clutch basket so that the next time you need to tackle the job, you’re well prepared.
Diagnosing the Issue
Any clutch issues that a machine may have are typically very apparent to the rider because there is a complementary feeling of loss of control of the machine. The machine won’t become outright unrideable; however, subtleties that quickly become annoying will arise when utilizing the clutch. Most notably, modulation of the clutch may become more difficult, and the clutch feel will be inconsistent.
Before taking the machine apart, verifying possible simple issues such as clutch cable adjustment and that the engine or gearbox oil has been maintained regularly should be confirmed. To inspect and disassemble the clutch, the procedures outlined in the machine’s factory service manual should be followed. Once the clutch has been removed from the engine, inspecting its condition is straightforward.
Double check that any issues you may be experiencing are in fact caused by a worn basket and not from a different culprit, like a clutch cable.
Click here for tips on replacing a clutch cable.
The basket consists of a series of “fingers,” or “tangs” which mate with the friction discs. The basket fingers drive the friction discs. The friction discs slide out when the clutch is engaged and back in when the clutch is disengaged. Due to this interaction, notching can occur on the edges of the basket fingers. Any notching that can be felt with a pick or a fingernail can be potentially problematic. In terms of clutch basket wear, the main grounds for replacement of the basket are worn and grooved basket fingers.
Notching on basket tangs is typically part of normal wear and is the main reason to warrant basket replacement.Replacement Options
The clutch basket is a great component to upgrade since it has surfaces such as the basket fingers that are inherently wear surfaces. Selecting a ProX basket, which is significantly stronger and more wear resistant than OE baskets, has a high return on investment in terms of reduced maintenance and improved performance.
ProX clutch baskets are precision machined from forged 7075-T6 aluminum, which is one of the strongest alloys on the market. Wear resistance is ensured by utilizing a sophisticated hard anodizing process. A final layer of performance is added in the form of a Teflon coating which seals the basket surfaces and allows the friction discs to slide effortlessly over the clutch basket fingers while in operation.
Find ProX clutch components for your bike or ATV here!
Tools Required
The clutch basket is an assembly of parts including the basket, starter gear, clutch driven gear, dampers, and backing plate. The starter gear is pressed into the clutch basket, and the driven gear, dampers, and backing plate are riveted or screwed in place.
When it comes to tools, you’ll need the following, outside of your standard tools used to remove the clutch from the machine:
The Process
We’re going to jump into the process post clutch removal and focus on servicing the basket.
ProX clutch baskets include new dampers and screws along with instructions for your specific application. The following instructions should be considered supplementary.
After the rivet head has been drilled out, use a punch and hammer to drive the rivet out of the assembly. The most recommended method to remove the rivets is to drill the heads off then use a punch to remove the rest of the rivet completely. 
Starter gears will differ depending on the model. Make sure it's adequately supported to press out without damaging the gear. 
Ensure the clutch basket is adequately supported before pressing the gear in place. The press force required to install the gear will be model specific and highlighted in the installation instructions. Be sure to oil the starter gear and note any depth and force specifications for your specific application. 
At this point, the clutch basket is ready for service and can be reinstalled on the engine. Refer to your service manual for assembly instructions and specifications to reinstall your clutch and button up the engine.
The process of replacing a clutch basket is straightforward and can be executed by anyone so long as the necessary steps are followed and tools are available. We hope this write-up simplifies the job and helps our fellow riders and racers get back out there performing better than before!
The ATV clutch is responsible for both gear shifting and vibration reduction during the ride.
ATVs for children are no exception.
As a rule, the occurrence of any problems with this component of motor vehicles, the rider feels immediately. It is recommended to service the ATV clutch every 6000-7000 km, but sometimes all kinds of problems can occur earlier. The rate of wear of the functional components of motor vehicles directly depends on the conditions of its operation.
The following points can serve as a signal that something is wrong with the motorbike clutch:
Depending on the severity of the failure, the problems described above can be solved either by repairing the vehicle's clutch or by replacing it completely. As for Chinese models of ATVs, here it is necessary to check whether the nuts on the clutch are securely fastened.
Poor assembly of motorcycles can also cause suspicious sounds in the variator area.
To change the clutch on a children's ATV with your own hands, you will need:
In general, this procedure is quite simple and fast. In older models of ATVs, everything is somewhat more complicated. Before proceeding with the dismantling of any components of motor vehicles, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer.
Even in Chinese models of ATVs, the clutch boasts an impressive margin of safety, and therefore its breakdown often occurs as a result of improper use of this equipment.
The main causes of premature ATV clutch wear include:
The only way to prolong the life of your ATV clutch is to use it properly and carefully. It is advisable to use good oil, and do not forget about timely maintenance.
The use of high-quality clutch discs in the ATV ensures a smooth start of the vehicle, and also fully ensures reliable grip without slipping even under fairly high loads. The exception is children's electric ATVs, in which there is simply no clutch disc.
ATV clutch usually needs to be adjusted no more than once a year. Before starting work, place the vehicle on a special footboard.
The process of adjusting the clutch on a motorbike is quite simple, and consists of the following steps:
If necessary, refer to the user manual for assistance. If the cover prevents access to the clutch, then dismantle it; Since adjusting your ATV's clutch is easy, you can repeat this procedure as needed. In the vast majority of motorcycle models, this functional component is adjusted in a similar way. If there are certain nuances in the clutch setting, they are explained in detail in the official vehicle manual.
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The ATV clutch is responsible for shifting gears, as well as damping vibrations while riding. But if the element is worn out, the rider will face a number of problems: jerking, slipping, etc. In this case, the component will have to be changed. Therefore, let's figure out how to replace the clutch and when to do it.
The movement of the ATV is directly dependent on the health of the clutch. And even if you were able to buy a quality ATV, it is recommended to check this unit every 6-7 thousand km. But improper operation of equipment or overloading can “kill” the mechanism even earlier. If the device is out of order, you will notice that:
All these problems can be solved by repairing or replacing the ATV clutch.
Note: Please note that the assembly of many Chinese ATVs leaves much to be desired. Therefore, after buying a quadric, you should check how the clutch is installed. If the nut on the mechanism is not fully tightened, you will hear a rumble in the CVT area while driving.
How to remove and install a new clutch on a child ATV depends on the model. For example, on some models, the chain reducer is covered with plastic parts (footboard, etc.). In this case, the master needs to dismantle all interfering elements.
To replace the clutch you need:
The procedure is quite simple, but the design features of the ATV can make it a little more difficult. For example, in order to remove the mechanism from a teenage all-terrain vehicle, you need to dismantle the gearbox cover, unscrew a few screws, unscrew the nut, remove the washer and remove the clamp. Before changing the clutch on an ATV, study the documentation for the device.
It should be said right away that replacing the clutch on an ATV with a CVT is a little different from servicing children's or teenage vehicles. And the thing is that in order to complete the procedure, the rider will have to dismantle the transmission. Because the quad clutch is hidden behind the CVT, the rider needs to:
