A steering stabilizer, also called a steering damper, is a device that manages forces acting on a motorcycle’s front end.
Most importantly, a stabilizer can help absorb abrupt turning movements that might otherwise lead to loss of control.
At their most basic level, steering stabilizers add resistance to a bike’s steering. The handlebars require more input to turn from side to side, which means an unintended motion, like a head shake at high speed, will have less effect on the front end (and therefore the handlebars). This helps the rider maintain control. For example, hitting a pothole while leaned over in a turn could momentarily unload and deflect the front wheel. The steering stabilizer's job is to prevent uncontrolled movement as the front wheel attempts to recover.
A Shindy Daytona steering stabilizer mounted on a Ducati Sport 1000. Dennis Bratland photo, via WikiMedia Commons.
Early steering stabilizers used stacks of friction discs, but hydraulic systems are the standard today. Hydraulic stabilizers use two main construction types: linear and rotary. Linear stabilizers slide a piston through oil, similar to what you might see under an off-road truck or Jeep. Rotary stabilizers sit on top of your steering stem, and force oil through small passages inside the unit. Some stabilizers are adjustable, usually with a small knob. Still others have electronic components that vary resistance, usually in relation to speed. The faster you go, the more it ramps up the resistance. Non-adjustable stabilizers can still be “adjusted” by changing the fluid inside to a different weight. Do some research on your model before attempting this.
A linear damper, mounted near the head tube. Dampers mounted like this typically have a shorter stroke than the frame-to-fork mounted variety. Bumper12 photo, via WikiMedia Commons.
George's Scotts Performance unit helped him reach this view on his WR250R.
George Armenante photo.
Steering stabilizers really shine in a few key scenarios. First, a well set-up stabilizer on a sport bike can tame speed wobbles or tank-slappers. It’s not uncommon for race-replica 600s and 1000s to wear them from the factory. Some race events even require them to pass tech inspection. Powerful engines, short wheelbases, and aggressive geometry mean a sport bike’s front end can encounter all kinds of influential forces. By suppressing them, your wheel is more likely to stay where it’s supposed to be.
Another application where steering stabilizers can really shine is off-road. Though dirt bikes average much lower speeds than sport bikes, uneven terrain can forcefully twist the forks. At best, this constant twisting fatigues a rider over time. At worst, an obstacle could whip the bars out of the rider’s control. Through the magic of hydraulics, a stabilizer can bring those abrupt movements down to a reasonable level. I mounted a very mild one to my favorite B-roads bike, which often sees ruts, washouts, and potholes.
After a year of riding with it, I have no plans to take it off.
With conventional oil dampers, more force applied to the fork means more resistance from the unit, so you’re unlikely to feel much of anything just turning your handlebars from lock to lock, or pushing your bike into a parking space. Get your bike moving, and that's where you'll feel a difference. As Spurgeon noted in his Tiger mods article, steering stabilizers can make low-speed, technical maneuvers a chore. Without a “true bypass,” even a stabilizer set to zero has some effect.
Spurgeon shows a Scotts Performance radial damper. Note the adjustment knobs. RevZilla photo.
Steering stabilizers are specialized equipment, designed to do one thing really well. If your motorcycle doesn't need help in the stabilization department, then you'd get better value for your money by investing elsewhere.
(Why not tires? Suspension?) But as with many performance accessories, steering stabilizers are a popular choice for making motorcycles look like they mean business. Adding speed parts is fun! If you want to add an unnecessary stabilizer to a motorcycle, go for it. Just choose a model that's correct for your application, and understand that mounting something to a bike that doesn't need it may make your riding experience less enjoyable. I've got to admit, I do like the look of a linear steering damper, especially on old race bikes.
No, a steering stabilizer won’t make your bike slapper-proof. But it might give you a fighting chance if you’ve pushed it too far. If your motorcycle has funky vibrations, head shake, or frequent speed wobbles, get those sorted out before attempting to hide the problem with a steering stabilizer. A damper unit is no replacement for taking proper care of head bearings, tire wear, and other front-end maintenance.
And a steering stabilizer isn’t a license to ride beyond yours limits — on the street, at the track, or in the dirt — just because you have some metal and oil bolted to your forks. Instead, they’re valuable tools for the right riders, and maybe the difference between a bad situation and a good save.
Quads and ATVs are great as a utility vehicles, for recreation, and for racing. These types of vehicles can have a steering damper installed stock on the vehicle, or they can be installed later. A steering damper isn’t something that’s common knowledge so in this article, I will explain what a steering damper does for a quad.
It slows the rate that the steering turns from side to side. It’s installed to prevent the steering wheel from jerking side to side quickly which can cause a crash. This occurs if you hit a bump at high speed or if the front wheels leave the ground and land at an angle.
There are a few different types of steering dampers and they are designed in a special way where they don’t inhibit steering but also provide safety if the steering wheel jerks quickly.
Below, I will explain how they work, some video examples of what they stop from happening, and whether you need one for your quad or ATV.
A steering damper is added to an ATV and most ATVs don’t come with one. A steering damper is highly recommended for a 2-wheeled motorcycle. But, here’s whether is necessary for an ATV.
Overall, a steering damper is only necessary on an ATV used for racing. All other ATVs for the most part don’t need a steering damper. Exceptions are if you ride it very fast on rough terrain. But, this is not advised generally because it’s dangerous with or without a steering damper.
The main purpose of a steering damper is to stop the steering from snapping back. For example, if you’re turning a corner and you hit a bump, the force of the bump can cause the steering to bounce in the opposite direction. This means the ATV or quad will be facing one way but the steering will be facing the other.
A very dangerous situation. When this happens the natural instinct is to turn the steering wheel back in the direction you’re going. This can cause the ATV or quad to lose control and usually it causes it to slide out and it will tip, or it will crash into any obstacles that are around. Such as trees or fences that aren’t on the path you’re riding.
Here’s a video example of what a tank slapper is:
It’s less common in cars because the rear wheels don’t turn and help to stabilize an ATV. But, it still occurs. On a two-wheel motorbike, it occurs much more frequently because there is only one wheel in the front. One wheel has far less stability and balance than two wheels.
The name tank slapper explains how the handlebars slap side to side on the middle of a motorbike – where the tank is. On an ATV it occurs more frequently if you turn a corner and overcorrect the steering but need to overcorrect it again. However, it doesn’t occur at a very fast rate as it does on a motorcycle where the handlebars go completely out of control.
The best way to stop a tank slapper is to slow down as safely as possible. As you can see in the video above.
A steering damper is also called a steering stabilizer. There are a few different steering damper configurations. There are:
The design of steering dampers is such that they don’t inhibit steering. They only begin to dampen if you turn the steering wheel very quickly. However, if you steer normally the steering damper isn’t engaged.
The steering wheel will only turn quickly when a motorbike begins to initiate a tank slapper. This can occur when the handlebars snap back quickly from hitting a bump, or if the front wheels leave the ground and land at an angle according to MSC Moto.
Virtually no ATVs or quads come with a steering damper. These are aftermarket and need to be purchased separately. Some are sold in the range of about $200 whereas others are can be $500 and even $1000. So, then the question is do you really need one.
Many people do get steering dampers for their ATV as reported on many online forums. They say that it is very good and they say it makes a big difference. At the end of the day, it’s perfectly fine to use the stock steering setup your ATV has, and it’s not necessary to get a steering damper or seek out an ATV with a steering damper.
Many ATVs have power steering which does a good job at stabilizing the steering. The main reason is that because ATVs have 4 wheels they’re much more stable than 2-wheeled motorbikes. For these, reasons a steering damper is generally only necessary for added safety on sport ATVs.
Sport ATVs involve fast speeds and fast turns.
Making the steering more likely to jerk back in the opposite direction, or requiring the rider to overcorrect in the opposite direction. Provided you drive a utility and recreation ATV safely as recommended in the owner’s manual of all ATVs you shouldn’t need a steering damper.
Because ATVs generally don’t come with a steering damper stock, it’s important to have an idea about when it makes sense to get a steering damper and when it’s not necessary. Here are the main reasons:
It is safer to have a steering damper. The same logic that applies to getting insurance applies to getting a steering damper. It’s generally rare for an ATV to experience head shake.
And for the steering to snap back and move fast and uncontrollable. Particularly, if you ride safely and don’t go very fast especially on uneven terrain.
But, in the event that you’re riding one day and you do experience either of these a steering damper can save you from a serious crash. Therefore, it will give you more peace of mind and is a lot safer.
Head shake is where you’re riding and the steering begins to wobble from side to side very slightly. This is typical of motorcycles at high speed but can also occur with ATVs, primarily if you’re going very fast on uneven terrain.
If you experience this regularly because of how you use your ATV, then it’s a good idea to get a steering damper. Because it will provide you with much more safety. This is one of the primary things that a steering damper prevents.
With that said it’s generally best to optimize your suspension by getting it tuned to your body weight.
This provides the best bang for the buck compared to getting a steering damp.
Steering dampers can come stock on motorbikes but generally don’t come with ATVs. The role of a steering damper is to make the steering slower so that it doesn’t jerk quickly. It’s reasonable to assume that this will cause the steering to be tighter during normal operation but here’s whether this is actually the case.
A steering damper does tighten the steering. There is a noticeable difference to the steering after you install a steering damper. Steering dampers can be adjusted by tightening them manually. Some also have low, medium, and high settings that you can switch between easily.
The feel of steering that has a steering damper is much different to one without, especially if it’s installed very tight. If it’s installed tightly it can be quite laborious to make tight turns at very slow speeds.
But, if it’s set too loose it won’t provide much dampening.
Therefore, you should need to try it out and set it as tight as is comfortable given how you ride your ATV/quad.
There is also what’s called a steering stabilizer. Its name seems to give the impression that it does something very similar to a steering damper. So, below I’ve summarized whether they’re the same thing.
A steering stabilizer and a steering damper are the same things. They are two different phrases for the same component that is installed onto the steering. It generally refers to one used for motorcycles rather than cars. This is because motorcycles are much more susceptible to steering wobble.
The four wheels of a car make the steering much more stable. The wheel placement on a car also provides more stability. Because it’s the wheels are quite far back from the front of the car. The design of the steering on a motorcycle is such that it creates a flexible end on the front.
The flexible front of a motorcycle stays straight for the most part due to the inertia of the motorcycle and because you hold it in place.
But, if it starts to get off-center at high speeds it starts to whiplash back and forward uncontrollably. And the entire motorcycle begins to wobble back and forth.
The force of the steering wheel is too much to hold it steady, and you need to as safely as possible slow the motorcycle down. On a car, the weight of the engine and the fact that there are two tires drastically reduce how easy it is for the wheels to move from side to side.
Bump steer is a potentially dangerous occurrence that can happen when driving a vehicle or bicycle. In general, it causes a loss of traction of the wheels and can cause the driver to need to overcorrect which can cause a loss of control. This is what causes bump steer.
Bump steer is caused by the wheels leaving the ground and hitting the ground again at an angle. The inertia of the vehicle is moving straight ahead but the wheels are pointing in a different direction. This causes a loss of traction as the vehicle changes direction suddenly rather than gradually.
When the front tires hit the bump the force of the tires hitting the bump turns the wheels either left or right and also lifts them off the ground. When the tires land the vehicle is already heading straight ahead with a lot of momentum. Changing the direction in a split second generally causes the tail to slide out.
Or the steering wheel to snap back quickly which causes the entire vehicle or bike to lose traction. It is similar to if you were driving a car straight ahead and then suddenly turn the steering wheel very quickly in either hard left or hard right.
This is desirable in car racing sports like drifting where it’s done on purpose. And there is a skill in controlling how the car skids. It can be controlled with extreme precision. But, for an average driver, the loss of traction can cause a vehicle such as a quad or ATV to lose control.
On a straight road, the vehicle can leave the road and end up crashing into anything that is on the sides of the road.
Here’s a video of how quad drifting works so you can see what the sudden change in direction of the front wheels does:
Bear in mind that drifting on an AV is extremely dangerous and the owner’s manuals of all ATVs discourage losing traction.
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At the request of those interested, I decided to post my own version of installing a steering damper on my X8. Previously, a lot of topics with installation options were viewed. All options differed only in how the damper was attached to the ATV frame. It depended both on the model of the ATV, and on the desire, or unwillingness, to boil to the frame. I really did not want to cook anything to the frame. Yes, there were other options for attaching the damper to the steering shaft. I have a takeaway, so the option suited me, because, apart from setting the damper forward, almost to the false radiator grille, above the oil cooler, in this version, we have nowhere to put the damper. In general, for now I decided to try the classic version of installing the damper, parallel to the steering rod. For a long time I thought about where and how to fix it on the frame, I thought for a long time what to do with it (damper) silent blocks. Even if you throw thoughts with the mount to hell, the problem remains that there are ordinary silent blocks in the damper at both ends. BUT! The steering rod, when moving, can move quite strongly in the vertical plane (suspension work), plus, when cornering, also in the horizontal plane. And the silent block, in theory, works only in one plane, for twisting the rubber band. That is, by installing the damper "like everyone else" I get broken-down silent blocks in it "like everyone else" after a certain mileage. And they are exactly like that in many pictures. And only in one photo, I saw some kind of hinge welded to the damper from the rod side. I don’t know what was there, maybe a steering tip, maybe a stabilizer bar, maybe something else. But the problem is that the hinge on one side solves the problem only on this one side. Climbing around the garage, I found the stabilizer struts from Mitsubishi Delica lying around from time immemorial. Therefore, I did this: We take the damper: (Search code for Exist.ru 01263) We take stabilizer struts: (Search code for Exist.ru ADC48546 ) Next, cut off the rack along the red line, and at the end, in the green square area, cut the M10 thread. Very hard to cut, legs are very strong! Next, we assemble our design: Then, unscrew the steering tip of the right wheel, and in place we make something like this miracle: My bracket is made from a corner, in which one shelf is cut in height to the thickness of the lever into which the steering tip is attached, then a plate is welded across, and a small plate on the other side, at an angle, is welded in place. The bracket is finally attached from below, under the steering tip nut and pressed against it. A large straight shelf on one side and a small one on the other ensure that it does not rotate on the lever. Well, in the ear, we insert one of our damper joints, and to be more precise, the one on the side of the tank. * No matter how I twisted, I did not find a better place than from below, under the arcuate jumper above the cardan input to the front gearbox (right behind the steering shaft). I really did not want to cook, it was supposed to be just an experiment, so I did this: We take a pipe clamp, which is in any hardware store. Only I traveled around the shops, and found those that are made of the thickest metal. Some stores sell a foil version... Size 1/2" Cut out a plate 100x110mm, and fasten it with clamps (halves of them) Then, having roughly estimated, we drill a hole for the hinge pin. Here you can more or less see that the plate is fixed to the longitudinal part of the frame with two clamps, and to the arched cross member with one clamp. Remove one hinge from the damper, put on the boot (Exist.ru search code 03304 ) Put on the clamps, but do not tighten. I wrapped the rest of the damper with thick rubber and secured it with three ties. In my version, the damper can hit the gearbox with strong vibrations. And it's not that it breaks when the suspension is articulated. No. It just hangs on two hinges, and it is in this version, on the side of both hinges, and therefore, it tends to go down all the time, turning on the hinges. And especially he strives down, on the bumps. Then his elastic bands of the hinges are raised, but a blow to the gearbox is not ruled out. Therefore, hedged rubber. Then put the damper in place. We tighten the hinge pins, but do not tighten the fastening of the hinges in the silent blocks. We put the wheel, lower the quad from the jack, jump on it so that the suspension is in its normal position (N must be on, that is, the neutral gear), then, tighten the fastening of the hinges to the silent blocks of the damper. At the same time, we make sure that the hinges are parallel to the supports in which their fingers are fixed (thus, we will have the same power reserve in all planes). Well, that's all. You can go, rejoice, and not understand how until now I have traveled without a damper. Flying into ruts at any angle, when it used to pull the steering wheel out of your hands and tried to throw it off the quad, bumps, fallen trees at an angle, a stump under one of the wheels, and all other delights, are now perceived as a slight push into the steering wheel. I repeat, this option is temporary, it was assembled only for testing, first of all, fastening to the frame, without welding. At the moment, the mileage is about 90 km, no backlash has been identified. The mileage is hard enough for steering, well, as usual, everything that is listed above (ruts-trees-hemp-bumps-dirt). By the way, with the seeming lightness of my travels, I have long ago bent one of the steering stops, right in the rut, flying into it in the tall grass. Now when I turn to the right, the extension works as a limiter ... So now such ruts are now calmly perceived. In general, this is a must try. So, the option is temporary, it was needed only to test some solutions. Now ordered again damper and two stabilizer struts. Now I want to try to weld them to the damper. Get it - great. If I lock up the struts or the damper, then I will drive the way I do now. What I don't like at the moment: 1. General collective farm design. 2. As a result of collective farming, the damper sagged and hit the gearbox. 3. The plate, the one that is attached to the frame, although it still stands perfectly, I will probably weld it in the end, to this lintel, arcuate, and vertically. It doesn't matter how the hinge works (almost) 4. Maybe I'll try the steering shaft - frame option if I find a suitable powerful clamp on the shaft. 5. The silent block, or rather the nut of the hinge to the damper, turned out to be very close to the wheel... Well... Although not closer than the brake caliper to the disc... In the photo, the wheels are turned to the right. And on this one, to the left. In general, there is something to work on. At the birth of option No. 2, the report will be posted. Addition: Attention! When implementing installation option No. 2, shortcomings were found in this option! 2018 KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x94i EPS in Black Camo0001 KAWASAKI has updated its sport-utility ATV to live up to its name even more. Beefy KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS The offers electric power steering (EPS), a powerful V-twin engine, four-wheel independent suspension, six-spoke alloy wheels and a sturdy body. Its strength, comfortable dimensions, high power, dual-range switchable four-wheel drive and highly maneuverable chassis provide excellent traction, handling and overall utility. KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS Electronic Power Steering Lightweight and highly efficient Electric Power Steering (EPS) helps the KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 provide easy handling and amazing rider comfort. Turning the steering wheel sends a command to the electric power steering control unit, activating this auxiliary mechanism. The processor checks input from the speed and steering column sensors to determine the amount of additional force required from the system's electric motor.
The electric power steering system improves driving quality and control by acting as a damper. When the ATV is moving in a straight line, the inertia of the electric motor acts as a steering stabilizer, greatly reducing wobble and kickback into the handlebars when over large obstacles. The entire steering assembly is located so that the lower part of the steering shaft does not connect directly to the front differential housing: the steering wheel simply will not be knocked out of the hands of the rider by a sharp blow from the suspension. The movement of the differential when you press the gas in 4x4 mode also does not affect the steering assembly and, accordingly, does not interfere with control.
KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS engineBrute Force 750 4x4i EPS four-stroke gasoline engine, fuel injected 90-degree V-twin, sounds powerful and aggressive. It's not just a utilitarian ATV, it has enough responsive power at its disposal to surprise all competition rivals. The ATV engine pulls well already from low revs, and in low gear it is generally capable of moving mountains. And at least to get out of any, the most impassable dirt. He is also quite good at climbing crazy climbs, no matter which one his pilot ventures into. Two cylinders are filled via 36mm butterfly valves controlled by a 32-bit processor. Digital Fuel Injection (DFI®) monitors coolant temperature, intake air temperature and pressure, throttle position, ATV speed and crankshaft position to provide the optimum fuel mixture. The result is very precise fuel delivery and crisp engine response, making the Brute Force 750 a hit among athletes. Such operation of the ATV's fuel and ignition system has a good effect on engine life (longer service intervals) and fuel consumption.
Large engine cooling radiator mounted high in the chassis to keep dirt and debris out of the chassis. Smart fan control electronics will not allow the system to overheat even in difficult conditions.
KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS Chassis Stylish six-spoke cast aluminum rims are lighter and stiffer than conventional forged wheels, allowing you to read the road better and increase confidence on difficult terrain. High-quality wheels fitted with aggressive tires provide the KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 with a ground clearance of 9.4 inches (approximately 24 cm) and demonstrate all the impressive power of the V-twin motor. Two or four wheel drive is switched by simply pressing a button on the steering wheel. In 4WD mode, the Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS uses a limited slip differential to maintain steering response and reduce steering effort. The rider can control the power delivered to the front wheels by the KAWASAKI Variable Front Differential Control using a small lever on the left handlebar. This is a definite advantage when crossing deep mud, slippery slopes, large logs or rocks. The fully automatic dual range continuously variable transmission (CVT) is well protected and has an air channel that is very effective in preventing water and dirt from entering it. In fact, this is a low gear CVT for especially difficult driving conditions (steep climbs, fords, large stones). KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i front drive shafts have universal joints. Like U-joints (a special type of drive connection used in heavy construction equipment in particular), universal joints help absorb torque fluctuations on the drive shaft, and the lightweight design helps to reduce vibration.
Brake System KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPSAs an integral drive part, the rear brake system is located in an aluminum swingarm where it operates in an oil bath. This protects the brake from dirt, dust and debris and is virtually maintenance free. The compact size also provides more ground clearance than a conventional rear disc brake system. The enclosed rear brake and dual front brake discs bring the Brute Force 750 4x4i to a halt almost instantly. The KAWASAKI Engine Brake Control system is an addition to the braking system that helps you effectively brake your ATV when going downhill.
KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS frame KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS has a strong tubular steel frame with reinforcements in key areas such as front stabilizer mounts, rear arm mounts and wishbone mounts , giving optimum steering on rough terrain and impressive durability. The frame's ability to absorb the shock of sporty riding on difficult surfaces makes it easier to maintain high speed in a variety of conditions. The front suspension features shock absorbers set at an optimal angle between the upper and lower wishbones to help minimize sag and provide higher ground clearance once the rider is on the ATV. The front suspension has adjustable dampers with 6.7 inches (170 mm) of travel and works in conjunction with an independent wishbone rear suspension that provides 7.5 inches (195 mm) of travel. The combination of needle bearings and ball joints in the lower wishbones gives the independent rear suspension unparalleled response, stability and rider comfort.
In addition to the soft suspension action, the rider's seat is filled with polyurethane foam to support and help reduce fatigue even after long hours on the move. Sitting High, Looking Away - An upright comfort position helps the rider stay in the saddle, comfortably steer the Brute Force 750 4x4i, have a good view of the surroundings and a large, easy-to-read automotive-style dashboard. The front rack has grippy handles for pushing a stuck ATV out of a trap.
KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS BodyDamage-resistant and stylish ATV body made of durable thermoplastic olefin (TPO). The hood, fenders, bumper and headlight covers are all carefully crafted parts that are large, comfortable and strong. Other design features include twin 35-watt wide-angle headlights that help provide great lighting for nighttime commutes and a handy enclosed storage compartment large enough to hold two bottles: approximately 470 ml (16 oz). A large 18.9 L (5 gal) fuel tank is located under the seat to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. To reduce weight, the aluminum footpegs are surrounded by durable full-length composite decks.
Cargo Capabilities KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPSSturdy luggage racks have secure and easy-to-use hooks for securing cargo with slings. These racks can carry a total of 110 kg (242 lbs) of cargo, making them more than ready to carry supplies, tools and/or equipment for touring and competition. Beneath this robust body, there is a place designed for quick and easy installation of a winch. KAWASAKI's Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS can also tow a trailer up to 567 kg (1,250 lbs) and all it needs is a standard hitch ball. In addition, the left and right front fenders are equipped with a waterproof box and a dedicated storage pocket. Owners can also expand the versatility of the Brute Force with a variety of original accessories available through KAWASAKI Authorized Dealers. ATV available in different colors: KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS camouflage (Camo), with scratch-resistant coating and black wheel rims; KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS Vibrant Blue; KAWASAKI Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS Black (Super Black), with unique graphics and high-gloss silver finish on die-cast aluminum wheels.  |
And if there is no removal, and the cooling radiator is in its place, then this option is generally difficult to implement. Although, I saw such an exotic that the damper from the steering shaft was set to the side, approximately at an angle of 45 degrees, and the second end was attached to a stainless steel pipe, under the headlight. Well, I'm not ready for such feats... 
I once had such a wonderful car. Having chosen a stronger pair, I began to think what to do next. I really wanted to try the damper, so I was afraid to cook the hinges to the damper. I have never done this, I was afraid to damage both the hinge (inserts inside) and the damper itself. 
Twisting the anther on the tank (the second side will sit very tight, you can’t turn it), we find a position in which the damper sags minimally down (what I wrote about above), by twisting the anther, we compensate this sag a little. Having found the optimal position, tighten the anther clamps. 
Well, these hinges on the side... 
After all, Brute Force is “brute force”! Let's take a closer look at it. 
At low speeds and in place, the performance of the amplifier is fully manifested; assist is reduced as the ATV speed increases to maintain predictable handling. 
Despite the high power of the engine, the ease of control of the throttle helps the rider to reduce fatigue. This is achieved by using ball bearings and a light return spring in the throttle. 
The small and compact rear derailleur and sealed rear brake system is extremely durable and efficient. 
