This Aftermarket Steering Bearing PU Bushing are compatible with many brands and models, see list below. Tested for consistent quality and meets or exceeds original OEM specifications.
Replaces the following Part Numbers:
Honda #: 53221-HB2-004
Yamaha #: 43D-F3812-00-00
Arctic Cat #: 3305-496
Polaris #: 0450499
Dinli #: F020037
E-Ton #:
650435
634136
Brand: JSP Manufacturing®
MPN: BU-Honda-Red-53221
Measures Approximately:
Outer Diameter: 1.15 inches or 29 mm
Inner Diameter: .923 inches or 23 mm
Height: 1.190 inches or 30mm
Thickness: .157 inches or 4 mm
Aftermarket Part fits the following:
E-Ton ATV’s:
Fits ALL e-ton ATV models 40-90cc, including
Alta Motors MACH9 (Linhai)
Impulse 50cc 50, TXL-50
Impulse 90, TXL-90
Lightning 50cc 50, AXL-50, NXL-50
Rascal 40cc IXL-40
Sierra 90cc 90, DXL-90
Thunder 50cc 90, AXL-90, NXL-90
Viper Jr.
40cc 40, RXL-40,
Viper Jr. 40cc 40E, RXL-40E,
2003-06 Viper 50cc 50, RXL-50,
2003-06 Viper 50M, RXL-50M,
2007+ Viper 70, RX4-70,
2003-06 Viper 70, RXL-70,
2007+ Viper 70, RXL-70, Silver Series
2007+ Viper 70M, RX4-70M,
2003-06 Viper 90, RXL-90,
2009+ Viper 90, RXL-9009 Silver Series
2009+ Viper 90, RXL-90R09, Silver Series
2007+ Viper 90R, RX4-90R,
2003-06 Viper 90R, RXL-90R
Dinli ATV’s:
Dinli 50 70 90 100 110 Helix Trex Diamond Back
Honda ATV’s
Honda TRX70 1986 1987 Honda Fourtrax TRX 70
Yamaha ATV:
2009-2013 RAPTOR 90
Polaris ATV’s:
2007 OUTLAW 90
2004-2007 PREDATOR 50
2003-2006 PREDATOR 90
2001-2003 SCRAMBLER 50
2001-2003 SCRAMBLER 90
2002 SCRAMBLER 90X
2001-2007 SPORTSMAN 90
Steering Post & Tie Rod Applications:
2008-2019 OUTLAW 50
2008-2016 OUTLAW 90
2016-2019 OUTLAW 110
2008-2016 SPORTSMAN 90
2016-2019 SPORTSMAN 110
Arctic Cat
2017-2018 Arctic Cat ATV ALTERRA 300
2006-2008 Arctic Cat ATV DVX 250
2009-2015 Arctic Cat ATV DVX 300
2009-2018 Arctic Cat ATV UTILITY 150
2006-2009 Arctic Cat ATV UTILITY 250
2010-2016 Arctic Cat ATV UTILITY 300
2011-2017 Arctic Cat ATV XC 450
We offer a 30-Day Guarantee, if you have any issues with your item, please contact us to resolve the problem.
Return Information
Returns will be the cost of the item purchased, MINUS any shipping costs that we incurred shipping to you, or any return shipping costs. All returns must be in unused, undamaged and unaltered condition. If you have any questions regarding your return, please contact us.
Shipping Information
We guarantee that if you place the order on a business day before 2PM, it will ship out that same day. If placed after 2PM, it will ship out the following business day. Unfortunately, once your order leaves our facility, we are unable to control delays or errors by the shipping carrier.
Please Contact
Via Chat or at 727-328-8733 If you have any questions or need larger quantities.
Monday - Friday 8AM-5PM Eastern Time.
ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV How To's > How To: Remove a Honda stem bearing
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View Full Version : How To: Remove a Honda stem bearing
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:16 AM
The steering stem bearing is one of the most often overlooked bearings on any ATV, mainly because its a bit of work to get it out. However, it can affect how well your ATV steers if it gets worn out and freezes up, and should be replaced every season if you ride alot of water and mud.
I decided to use pictures of a bare frame so it would be easier to describe how to get the actual bearing out of the frame. The steps needed to get the steering stem out are fairly simple.
1. Remove front plastic
2. Remove handle bars from stem and just let them set out of the way, there is no need to remove the cables and wiring from the bars.
3.
Loosen and remove tie rod ends from stem
4. Loosen stem clamp and remove
5. Stand ATV on grab bar and remove cotter pin and stem nut
6. Slide stem up and out of frame
Once the stem is removed, you will be able to see the upper dust seal
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:18 AM
Using a large flat blade screwdriver or similiar flat ended item, lift the dust seal out of the way and inspect for damage.
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:19 AM
With the dust seal removed, you can now locate the snap ring that holds the actual bearing in place.
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:20 AM
An inexpensive set of snap ring pliers will be needed to remove the snap ring
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:22 AM
The snap ring pliers perform 2 functions depending on which way you have them set. For removale, you will want them to close the gap on the snap ring when squeezing the pliers.
Insert the tips of the snap ring, squeeze and remove the snap ring
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:23 AM
The snap ring is removed and can be cleaned and oiled before reassembly
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:25 AM
Even with good seals, moisture can still wreak havoc on the bearing
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:26 AM
From the bottom side of the frame, you will see the stem spacer that can be removed with your finger.
Do not forget to reinsert this item when reassembling your parts
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:28 AM
Even though it is zinc coated, corrosion will attack it. This is the same coating that those high dollar pivot bolts are coated with, now you can see that it does not prevent rust and corrosion however it will be able to be cleaned and oiled and reused as the zinc coating should prevent it from becoming pitted.
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:30 AM
The next step is to remove the lower dust seal
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:32 AM
From the bottom side of the frame, use a wide punch to drive out the old bearing. There is not much force required to drive it out
Pappy
08-05-2008, 08:34 AM
Inspect the bearing (this one is obviously toast!)
The inner part of the bearing should spin freely and smooth. They are fairly inexpensive to replace, so use your judgement whether to clean and reuse or replace.
Reinstallation is the reverse order of removal.
Clean and inspect the frame where the bearing goes, and lightly oil the machined area before reinstalling the bearing. This is also the best time to re-grease your upper stem bushing.
jtalleman
02-24-2011, 06:34 PM
how tight do u tighten the lower stem nut do u go tight to bearing or keep it loose and just let the safety wire hold it on
mirror_racing
11-01-2011, 05:49 PM
just a little past snug is how i tighten mine. I'm sure there are torque specs that you can find on it but i have never had any problems using the german method of good-n-tight
Darnell J. Neal
07-09-2013, 09:33 AM
The next step is to remove the lower dust seal
thanks for your sharing all about this problem and solution.One of my friend having same problem he gone through your post,found it more helpfull. Thanks!
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Finally then it came to write a small article about steering column bearings, and more precisely, we will analyze how to understand that they are worn out, when it is time to change them, which signs of wear, how to increase their life and in general everything everything everything.
How to understand that the steering wheel bearings are worn out and it is time to change them.
Well, the most banal thing, when they have already fallen apart in trash, is the backlash in the steering column, especially when pressing the front brake.
When the bearing wears out, there are two things that are not so scary.
The first is that the steering wheel becomes tight, while on the go it’s just turning on place, the difference is not very big, BUT when hanging the pit on a stand, the steering wheel turns around like nothing happened.
The second point is biting, that is, on the go, the steering wheel seems to freeze in one position, this greatly affects handling, and not notice this difficult .
Everything happens for two reasons - due to the fact that the bearings never served, and they worked metal on metal, and grooves formed in the clip from videos in which the steering wheel, say, bites. The second point is that the steering wheel dangled due to too much free play and the result is the same - formation of production.
In my case, it was probably all that was possible, since the frame was used and about the existence of bearings, and the fact that they need to be serviced by a fool was unknown.
Knock out old bearings turned out to be actually very simple. Warmed up quite a bit with a building hair dryer, one blow with a tube welded at both ends, and you're done, both clips lie.
Rusty, with the development of rollers, an ellipse .... it's hard to understand how a person enough idiocy to continue to ride with bearings in this condition.
New bearings are actually not much more difficult to install.
We clean the landing place in the steering column, smear it with a thin layer of bearing grease and guide carefully.
We upset the clip extremely tightly, first through a piece of wood, and then through aluminum or copper supply.
As if you didn’t try, you won’t be able to besiege to the end, there will be a drawdown. Alas, after what that time after trips, the steering will have to be stretched.
Bearings must be thoroughly lubricated with SPECIAL BEARING GREASE.
way, you will provide them with smooth operation, and increase the service life, which is not unimportant!
After the top bearing is installed, wrap the top nut!
This nut just regulates the level of tightness of the bearings. No need to pull it all the way, in this case the steering wheel will just stand like a stake and you will not go anywhere! effort should be so that the steering wheel rotates freely but there is no backlash.
As he rides the backlash itself will manifest itself, and if it is detected, it is necessary to periodically tighten the adjusting nut.
Scooter service / Scooter repair
Consider the process of replacing the bearings of the steering column of the scooter, as well as other elements of this mechanism. As a rule, the steering column is equipped with two bearings - upper and lower, the design is similar to what you see in ordinary bicycles and is not structurally different.
Bearings can be either caged or loose, depending on the scooter model.
Maintenance of this unit should be carried out every 15 thousand km. In this case, it is imperative to check for wear and integrity all the elements of the assembly and the presence of lubrication in the bearings.
Grease is used here and it is not worth focusing on this, everyone who has at least somehow encountered the repair and maintenance of bicycles as a child knows this. Of course, this does not mean that you need to use the good old Litol everywhere. Now there are many high-quality greases specifically for bearings, and they should be preferred.
Consider the whole process of servicing and replacing the steering wheel bearings of the scooter in detail:
Determine if there is any wear. Wipe off old oil and dirt from all elements and apply a new layer of grease. 
