How to change oil on atv honda foreman 400


Kolpin 02-4944 ATV Oil Filter Honda Foreman Rancher 350 400 420

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Kolpin
MPN: 02-4944
UPC: 028752949446

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Brand/MPN: Kolpin 02-4944

Replacement/Substituted Part Numbers: N, A

  • Fits 1998-2003 Honda Foreman 400, 1998-2004 Honda Foreman 450, 2005-2018 Honda Foreman 500, 2000-2006 Honda Rancher 350, 2007-2014 Honda Rancher 420, 2015-2018 Honda Rancher TRX 450

  • Provides excellent engine protection when using conventional or synthetic motor oil

  • Designed for severe operating conditions such as dirt roads, trails, fields, construction sites, or short trips

  • Anti-drain back valve protects against dry engine starts where applicable

  • Recommended for original equipment manufacturer's oil and filter change intervals

Oil Filter - Honda - Non-Automatic ATV

Please refer to your vehicle owners manual for additional fitment and compatibility information

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How to Change Oil on a Honda FourTrax ATV

Sep 21st 2018


Honda ATVs--like their motorcycles, and power equipment--are world famous for their dependable durability and steadfast reliability. However, the key to that durability and reliability is making sure that proper maintenance is performed on a regular basis. One of the easiest and most important maintenance jobs that you, the owner, can perform yourself is the basic oil change. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine and as long as that engine is adequately filled with fresh, clean oil, it can continue to provide you with many years and miles of fun, adventure, and trouble-free service.



2013 Honda TRX450R FourTrax

One of Honda’s most popular ATV models is the TRX450R, based off of the best-selling FourTrax Foreman. In this quick How-To, we’ll be using the TRX450R as our subject vehicle but the actual process itself is fairly *universal for most ATVs.

* NOTE: Your ATV may be equipped with either a dry-sump or wet-sump oiling system. For dry-sump systems, the auxiliary oil tank must also be drained. This is an additional step in the procedure, but otherwise, directions are as follows.

YOU CAN’T DO THE JOB WITHOUT THESE

  • oil drain pan
  • shop towels
  • chemical-resistant gloves
  • plastic oil funnel
  • socket wrench
  • 8mm socket (oil filter cover)
  • 12mm socket (crankcase and oil tank drain plugs)
  • 14mm socket (oil tank drain plugs)
  • 2 quarts Pro Honda 4-stroke synthetic engine oil (consult owner’s manual)
  • cartridge-type oil filter (consult owner’s manual)

STEP 1: START ENGINE, HEAT OIL TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE

Start your engine, let it idle for 5 minutes, and then turn it off. The reason for this is because you want that engine nice and hot so that it flows easier, thus drains easier. You want to minimize any of that leftover contaminated oil before you replace it with a brand new, fresh batch.

STEP 2: DRAIN THE OLD OIL

Place your oil drain pan underneath the engine of your ATV. If your ATV’s engine utilizes a dry-sump oiling system (as in the case of the Honda TRX450R), loosen the dipstick on the oil tank to relieve internal pressure.

  • CRANKCASE: Use the 12mm socket to loosen the drain plug on the crankcase. Don’t let the crush washer drop into the drain pan, or else you’ll be fishing it out of there later. Once the oil stops dripping out of the crankcase drain, reinstall the drain plug and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. of torque.
  • OIL TANK: On the bottom of the auxiliary oil tank, use the 14mm socket to loosen the drain plug. Again, pay attention and don’t lose the crush washer. Once the oil stops dripping out of the tank, reinstall the drain plug. The torque specification for the oil tank drain plug is 14 ft. lbs.

STEP 3: REPLACE THE OIL FILTER

Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the oil filter cover. These can be found at the opposite side of the engine. Keep in mind that there is still old oil in this compartment; make sure that your drain pan is still underneath the ATV. Once the bolts have been removed, remove the oil filter cover and let the excess oil drain completely. While the oil filter cover is off, you should probably inspect the o-ring gasket that seals the cover to the engine block. If you notice any visible wear or damage, replace the o-ring gasket (Discount Starter & Alternator sells Winderosa OEM-quality replacement oil seals and complete gasket kits for Honda ATVs, including the TRX450R).

  • There is a spring that sits inside the oil filter chamber. This is what helps position the oil filter. If it comes loose or falls out upon removal of the old filter, simply place it back in the same spot where it was. If it hasn’t fallen out, leave it as-is.
  • The oil filter is directional and must be installed and positioned facing exactly the same way as the old one. Also, the rubber seal on the oil filter needs to face outwards.
  • Install the cartridge oil filter into the chamber, then line up the cover by way of the bolt holes on the cover itself and on the block. The long bolt goes towards the front of the engine, the short bolt goes towards the rear. Tighten both bolts securely.

STEP 4: REFILL

Remove the dipstick (on a dry-sump system, this will be on the oil reservoir tank). Insert funnel and fill with new oil but don’t fill all 1.9 quarts in just yet. Instead, gently pour in the first quart, remove the funnel, then reinsert the dipstick. Start the engine and let it run for about 15 to 20 seconds. While the engine is running, visually inspect your drain bolts and filter cover bolts for leaks. If leaks are detected, stop the engine immediately and retorque any and all loose bolts. If you don’t see any leaks while the engine is running, let it idle for 15 to 20 uninterrupted seconds and then shut it down. Remove the dipstick, reinsert the funnel, and pour in the remaining 3/4ths of the second quart of oil. Now, fire the engine and let it run for 3 minutes. After the 3 minutes are up, turn off the engine and check the dipstick. If the level on the dipstick reads ‘UPPER’, the oil is at the appropriate factory OEM-spec level.

Congratulations! You now know how to do ATV oil changes all by yourself!

  • #maintenance & repair
  • #how-to

Changing the oil in an ATV - how to choose and change the oil in an ATV engine with your own hands

All ATVs have their own "term" of life. This applies even to expensive branded devices that cost tens of thousands of dollars. There is nothing to be done about the fact that key components of equipment gradually wear out and fail. But you can increase the life of the components by using quality oil. Even if you decide to buy an inexpensive ATV, you need to find the right lubricants for it. Therefore, let's figure out which oil is better to choose for an ATV.

Which ATV systems need lubrication?

It should be noted right away that a special oil is used for each of the units of the apparatus. The lubricant composition is poured into:

  • ATV motor.
  • Transmission.
  • Reducer (rear and front axle).

It is not recommended to save on oil, as it not only reduces friction, but also removes excess heat. Due to this, the mechanisms work correctly, do not overheat and “live” an order of magnitude longer.

What kind of oil to fill in an ATV?

Refer to your ATV documentation for information on lubricant formulations. Each device has its own requirements, so be sure to study them.

Although it is worth following the manufacturer's recommendations, this does not mean that you need to buy the first suitable composition. All oils consist of a base and special additives. And it is on the basis that their operational features depend. There are 3 types of oil:

  • Synthetic. This base is made from artificial components. The liquid provides maximum protection to the apparatus components and quickly spreads through its systems (due to fluidity). But synthetics have a fat minus - the price. Although the high operational resource of the composition partially compensates for this disadvantage.
  • Mineral. The composition is made from petroleum products and has a reasonable cost. But there is a minus - such a liquid will have to be changed often. Therefore, it is best to use mineral grease in inexpensive quadrics with decent mileage, since the viscous composition will not flow from microcracks formed in the system.
  • Semi-synthetic. The liquid has the qualities of mineral and synthetic oils, but is several times cheaper than the latter.

It is up to the rider to decide which oil to put in the ATV. However, experienced motorists are advised not to save on lubricants, since repairing an engine or gearbox will cost many times more.

What composition parameters should I pay attention to?

There are several oil characteristics that a rider should pay attention to. The first step is to determine the viscosity of the liquid. To do this, look at the label. If it has the letter W (winter), then the liquid is designed for low temperatures. The following numbers show what weather conditions the composition is intended for (0 - mild winter, 25 - severe frost).

The situation is similar with summer liquids. There are 5 classes of compositions (by viscosity) from 20 to 60. There are also universal oils that are used both in winter and in summer. You can recognize them by special markings, for example: "20W40"

You also need to pay attention to:

  • Density.
  • Base number. The higher the value, the higher the level of protection.
  • Flow and ignition temperature. This is the minimum and maximum indicator at which the oil can be used.
  • Density.

The API system is used to classify oil by quality. The marking looks like this: S (common name) + A, B, C, D, etc. The lowest quality is marked with the letters "SA", and the highest quality is marked with "SL".

Engine oil selection

When deciding which oil to fill in an ATV engine, you need to take into account the characteristics of the vehicle itself. Because the ATV is subjected to considerable stress, the engine becomes very hot. This means that the oil must be resistant to high temperatures and conduct heat well.

Plays the role and basis of the composition. Ideally, you should use only synthetic or semi-synthetic fluid. You need to pay attention to the labeling: the country of origin, season, quality standard.

Important: For gearboxes and gearboxes, you need to use special compounds that differ from engine oil in a set of additives.

How to change the engine oil?

The first thing a rider needs to figure out is how often to change the oil in an ATV. Each manufacturer has its own recommendations, but experienced motorists advise filling in new fluid every 160 hours. In this case, the first replacement is performed during the break-in, after the device has worked for 20 hours.

To change the oil you need:

  • Find where the oil plug is located.
  • Warm up the engine (to warm up the fluid).
  • Place a container under the drain hole.
  • Slowly twist the cap.
  • Remove the gasket from the plug, wipe off the threads and reinstall the element.
  • Screw in the plug.
  • Remove the oil filter and replace it.
  • Lubricate the filter O-rings with oil.
  • Insert a funnel into the engine filler neck and fill the engine with "fresh" oil.
  • Screw the cap onto the neck.

You also need to know how to check the oil level after adding new fluid. To do this, warm up the engine, wait 10 minutes, unscrew the oil tank cap, remove and wipe the dipstick. After that, the rod is lowered into the crankcase and removed after 3-5 seconds. The oil level on the dipstick determines the fluid level.

06/16/2020 6038

ATV you don't want to change — 4x4 Club Magazine

ATV Club

September 30, 2012 0

Brands rule our world. And now, while collecting material at the choice of the “Japanese” with history, I was dealing with a whole army of followers of the brand from the Land of the Rising Sun (and sake). Their name is hondovody, their religion is better than Honda only Honda can be.

Indeed, Honda is a good choice for doubters. When you want to get cross-country ability, reliability, efficiency and comfort from one ATV, it makes sense to take a closer look at the TRX 500. This quadric has been produced for more than a year, but it is also modernized with enviable regularity.


EPISODE ONE. UNDERHOOD The
Honda TRX 500 first rolled off the assembly line in 2008. This model has several names depending on the market. In North America, the most quad-packed area, it's called the FourTrax Foreman Rubicon. Well, we have a Honda TRX 500 FA.

The 500 engine has a single-cylinder liquid-cooled engine. Despite the fact that the power system is carburetor, exhaust standards comply with the Euro-3 standard. With the motor, everything is extremely simple: when inspecting, do not lose sight of the leak where it should not be. In a word, the Japanese heart is strong, but liquids whipping through the gaskets and past the hoses should stop you.


EPISODE TWO. AUTOMATIC QUEUE
The main difference between the "500" TRX and its competitors is the transmission. This quadric has a Hondamatic gearbox, that is, an electronically controlled hydromechanical “automatic”. As a bonus from Japanese engineers, there is a manual shift mode, which they called ESP. It allows you to change gears with steering "petals" and fix them rigidly. According to active exploiters, this "automatic" can really slow down the engine and, moreover, starts off without jerks and axle boxes - a real find for scouts looking for themselves on rough and swampy terrain.


To improve the patency in the transmission, a self-locking differential of the front axle was used. As soon as the difference in the rotation of the front wheels exceeds a certain value, an automatic lock is activated. According to statistics, this knot has an enviable longevity.

EPISODE THREE. SUSPENSION BRIDGE
As for the suspension, everything is traditional here: the front one is independent, on two steel wishbones. Behind and completely dependent beam-bridge. But, I note, here, unlike the younger models, there are two shock absorbers. But the braking system is unusual. Front - hydraulics with discs on the front hubs. Behind - completely (hear, completely!) sealed drum mechanism with a cable drive. This means that after a winter ford, when the calipers may freeze, the rear brakes will remain in service anyway. The TRX 500 suspensions have a good wear life, although the nature of the operation by the previous owner, of course, matters.


None of the respondents has yet complained about handling, despite the rear dependent suspension. On the contrary, quadromaniacs note the amazing lightness of the steering wheel and the obedience of the unit.

What else is worth noting? The dry weight of 273 kg for such a very difficult vehicle is impressive, as is the payload of 220 kg.

Stanislav, Honda TRX 500 FA 2008:
– I have been using Honda for my off-road needs for quite a long time, the benefit and experience allows, and there is something to compare with. Drove almost 6000 km. Reliability and excellent handling are the main strong point of the model. Reliability is not a fairy tale! My quad once pulled out two colleagues from the virgin lands at once! It steers nicely, but sometimes I still notice a certain heaviness of the steering wheel, depending on the coverage under the wheels. The suspension is moderately energy-intensive, moderately soft. However, after replacing the standard tires on the 25th wheel (and then on the 27th wheel), it became somehow harsh and uncomfortable, unpleasant pokes on the steering wheel appeared in the ruts. The only thing that upset from the very beginning — the springs are not regulated in any way. But I really like the box! Provides a rigid connection with the wheels, after the variator it is acutely felt. The quad is perfectly braked by the engine, which increases the survivability of the pads. And the pickup is good at any speed. "Automatic" switches almost imperceptibly and generally works very adequately. The most pleasant impressions from the TRX 500 remain after the fords. It's definitely his element! Patency is good, but not the best - due to lower ground clearance than others.

Disappointing that there is no downhill system. And one more of the shortcomings: not a very well-thought-out design for the security of components and assemblies and access to them - take at least the same battery under the wing or the rear brake! It's better not to talk about changing the oil at all. Who came up with this drain plug? While you unscrew it, you will fill everyone around with oil and yourself.

As for breakdowns: all the time I changed only wheel bearings, ball bearings and bushings of levers. I paid some ridiculous money, I didn’t do anything else with the quad - it drives and drives.


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