Coolant in your ATV oil will grenade the motor. This is the kind of problem that needs immediate attention. But don’t panic, you’re in the right place, and very shortly, you’ll have it figured out.
Top 3 reasons for coolant in ATV oil include:
In this post, you’ll learn the top 3 reasons an ATV has coolant in the oil, you’ll learn how to diagnose them and what you need to do to fix them.
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Head-gaskets fail all the time; they work hard and are under tremendous pressure. What is a head gasket? It’s graphite material sandwiched between your cylinder head and the piston sleeve (Jug).
Its function is to create a seal between the water passageways, the oil passageways and to seal the combustion chamber, so compression doesn’t leak.
Your ATV engine creates a ton of heat, and if it isn’t managed, the internal engine components would simply fuse and seize. Hollowed out passageways inside your cylinder head and sleeve carry cool coolant to and hot from the engine.
The hot coolant, as you know, is then transported to the radiator by the water pump, where ambient air helps cool the fluid, and the cycle begins again. A head gasket can fail in a few different ways and depending on the engine type and where the gasket blows will dictate the symptoms.
As your ATV suffers from the coolant in the oil, at this stage, it would appear your head gasket has failed between the coolant passageway and the oil passageway.
This isn’t the most common way for the head-gasket to fail, but it does happen. The more usual way is coolant inside the cylinder.
Your coolant system is a sealed pressurized system (1 bar/15psi).
There are several ways to test for a failed head gasket. I like to use a leak-down tester but it is possible to use a coolant system test kit too.
The leak-down tester pressurizes the cylinder and checks for pressure loss over a given period of time.
However, a failed gasket usually makes itself known by the telltale sound of air from, and where the air leaks from is where the gasket has failed.
To use a coolant system test kit remove the cap and pressure the system using the hand pump tester, and check for leaks.
It is similar to the leak-down tester in that the sound of air leaking is the indicator of where the gasket has failed.
As our coolant and oil are mixing we’ll expect to hear air leaking from the oil filter/ dipstick port. Go ahead and remove the dipstick and listen for air escaping from the crankcase area.
This indicates gasket failure between the coolant and oil passages. But as you’ll learn in the next section, it may not be the only reason you hear air escaping from the dipstick.
If you find your head-gasket has failed, it is a job you can take care of yourself. You will need a torque wrench and torque specifications, but it isn’t a hugely difficult procedure.
Overhead cam engines will be more challenging, as incorrectly refitting a timing chain is easy to do and could potentially grenade the motor.
The water pump should really be called a coolant pump as it moves coolant. Anyhow, its job is to keep the coolant moving around the system. The cooled coolant is pumped to the engine and returns to the radiator to be cooled, and so on.
The pump is usually mechanically driven by the engine. It’s positioned on the side of the motor. A shaft with an impeller on the water pump side passes through a seal and bearing to be driven from the crankcase side.
A failure of the water pump seal can cause coolant to enter the crankcase and mix with oil. However, if this is the problem, a weep of coolant should also be present at the bottom of the water pump housing, which should alert you to a problem.
The second possible failure of the water pump is model-dependent. Some models use an o-ring or gasket to interface the pump housing with the engine.
As the pump housing and side cover are integrated, a failure of this o-ring or gasket will allow coolant to leak into the crankcase.
Coolant pumps wear out, just like brake pads, so if you own your ATV long enough, you’ll be replacing it. Suppose your water pump hasn’t been replaced in the last five years. Go ahead and replace the water pump seal, bearing, and gaskets.
While replacing, inspect the impeller and shaft for wear and for evidence of failure. A worn bearing allows play and that will cause the seal to fail. Rebuilding the pump and replacing gaskets is worthwhile maintenance, even if it’s not the source of your leak.
Frost plugs are cup-shaped metal components about the size of a dollar coin. They’re fitted to all water-cooled motors and offer protection against freeze-thaw action.
When coolant isn’t strong enough, it freezes and expands inside the engine, pushing the soft metal frost plugs out of the engine.
Without frost plugs, the forces are strong enough to break the engine apart. Frost plugs don’t usually cause too much trouble. They’re press-fitted into the cylinder head and block and are tight enough to create a seal. Common problems include corrosion and leaking.
Most frost plugs are fitted to the external of the motor, meaning if they leak, you’ll know about it. But some models fit frost plugs under the cam cover, and a leaking frost plug here will cause coolant to migrate to the crankcase.
This is a rare condition, but I’ve met it a few times, and worth checking before you pull the cylinder head, as you’ll have the cam cover off anyway.
Coolant contains anti-freezing agents and is often referred to as antifreeze. Both terms are correct. Fresh coolant is important, it should be changed every three years (including the thermostat), and antifreeze strength checked well before winter arrives.
As coolant ages, it loses its strength and turns acidic, and can eat your engine from the inside. Old coolant not only risks your engine from the effects of overheating and freezing but also risks corroding other coolant system components like:
Coolant does a lot more than most ATV owners realize. Your coolant is specially formulated and contains additives that:
You may find the following posts helpful:
ATV coolant in the cylinder
Ride bike without coolant
08/11/2022 Automotive Leaks
Oil Mixed With Coolant, In The Cooling System, Why, Cleaning TipsEngine oil mixed with coolant in the cooling system, is very common, after a blown or leaking head gasket.
So, you opened your coolant reservoir or the radiator cap and see, that the coolant and oil have mixed.Oil mixed with coolant is bad, no matter where it has heppened. Before replacing any parts, you should be sure that, no one filled motor oil, in the coolant reservoir by mistake.
Consequently, there two, really good reason that, you should never have oil mixed with coolant:
In certain situations, cleaning the engine oil mixed with coolant; without removing all the cooling system components may be successful.
But, before you go any further, you need to find out, why this has happened.Engine oil mixed with coolant in the cooling systemCommon Causes Of, Engine oil mixed with coolant in the cooling systemNext, you need to make all the necessary repairs to stop a repeat failure. So, there are some issues that are more common than others, here are some common causes.
So, what you want to do is basically, an engine coolant flush without the harsh chemicals. A coolant flush, is also referred to as a cooling system service or radiator flush. Consequently, the process of adding a cleaner to the cooling system to remove, sediment, rust, or oil. Anything that can contaminate the cooling system, will have a negative impact on its function.
Engine Coolant FlushFollow These Steps, For The Most Effective Results:
Consequently, allowing for an air bleed to maximize the fill effort.
So, coolant and engine oil are two completely different liquids. Both serve a different purpose, which is why Oil Mixed With Coolant should never happen. The reason behind it relies on both the liquids’ chemical properties. Oil is a thick viscous substance, while coolant is water like. Consequently, the engine relies completely on oil for lubrication which coolants and water cannot offer. Finally, that should make it clear that oil and coolant cannot go together.
Thank You !
Fans of ATV rides were waiting for the onset of heat like manna from heaven. Well, the season can be considered open. At the same time, so that after the very first forays into the forest, the quadric does not end up in a service with expensive repairs, it must be thoroughly prepared for the summer.
Dmitry Zlenko
If you forgot to change the oil in the fall, now is the time to refresh the contents of the engine crankcase. Used oil contains products of combustion, wear and oxidation, and such a cocktail will do more harm to the motor than good. Ideally, before draining the waste and changing the oil filter, you should use a special flush.
Add the special Motorbike Engine Flush to a warm ATV engine and let the engine idle for 10 minutes. During this time, flushing will remove contaminants from the channels of the oil system, wash away gear and friction wear products from the internal surfaces of the motor (after all, many ATVs have the so-called oil bath clutch), soot and sludge. At the same time, what is important, Motorbike Engine Flush does not damage the friction linings of the clutch, their glue and the varnish windings of the generator. Applying a ten minute flush will clean the piston rings and combustion chamber, which will improve compression. Due to the fact that the engine will be absolutely clean from the inside, freshly filled oil will last much longer.
It must be remembered that the ATV is operated in extremely harsh conditions, and therefore neither car oil, nor lubricant for road motorcycles, and even more so motor lubricant for lawn mowers, will not work for him. ATVs usually ride through mud at low speeds, at which both the radiator of the cooling system and the engine itself are poorly blown by oncoming air flows. In addition, on many quads diving into the swamp slurry up to the very handlebars, the heat exchanger is clogged with dirt, as a result of which the motor “works” beyond the upper limits of operating temperatures, especially in hot weather. Oil not intended for such conditions inevitably liquefies to the state of water, starts to burn, pressure in the system disappears, and stopping the “fiery heart” is only a matter of time. ATV oils, unlike automotive and others, are "charged" with a package of special additives that retains the characteristics of the lubricant in the widest temperature range.
In addition, such oils are able to work for a long time and not burn out at high speeds.
Liqui Moly ATV 4T Motoroil Offroad 10W-40 is one of the most popular products on the ATV oil market today. This synthetic engine oil was created specifically for heavily loaded off-road motorcycles. It can be poured into both ATVs, side-by-side (all-terrain vehicles with an automotive layout of controls), and motocross, pit bikes and enduro engines. This oil is universal and, thanks to a complex of additives, it is suitable for engines with a “wet” and “dry” clutch, air and water cooling, and even for engines that have a “wet” type variator.
However, grease with such viscosity characteristics is not suitable for all types of quads. For example, highly accelerated and turbocharged engines require oil with a wide variation in viscosity. For such devices, the German brand Liqui Moly offers its top synthetic product "ATV 4T Motoroil 5W-50". The complex of anti-wear additives and the basic base ensure the correct and trouble-free operation of the engine of your ATV or UTV in the widest possible range of temperatures and loads, ensuring the performance and protection of the engine under any, even extreme operating conditions.
The use of Liqui Moly ATV Motoroil 4T 5W-50 engine oil ensures high reliability of ATV units and ease of starting the engine at very low temperatures (this is in case you do not get off the ATV even in winter). This grease mixes easily with all standard oils, and therefore, before changing the oil, it is not necessary to specifically flush the motor.
Well, since we touched on the issue of overheating, then when preparing your ATV for the summer, look at the condition of the radiator cells. And in general - make sure that there is a sufficient amount of antifreeze in the cooling system. If the radiator has a filler neck, then be sure to unscrew the plug and make sure that there is no scale inside the heat exchanger. Found "fossils" or noticed that the antifreeze is cloudy - flush the cooling system. Inexpensive and extremely effective Motorbike Kuhler Reiniger from the manufacturer Liqui Moly, dissolves scale and dirt in radiators, pipes and engine water jackets.
The cleaner removes these deposits and ensures the normal operation of the cooling system. Motorbike Kuhler Reiniger is free of harsh acids and bases and should generally be used with every coolant change.
Well, to prevent limescale from appearing inside the radiator and leaving no deposits, use only high-quality antifreeze, and do not forget to change it in a timely manner - at least once every two years, and ideally every year. A rather interesting “cooler” has appeared in the Liqui Moly product grid - long-term antifreeze Motorbike Langzeit Kuhlerfrostschutz GTL 12 Plus. This antifreeze is based on ethylene glycol, a combination of additives and a package of inhibitors. The technical fluid is designed to work in the cooling systems of heavily loaded engines (including aluminum ones) of modern ATVs, motorcycles, snowmobiles and other motor vehicles. Motorbike Langzeit Kuhlerfrostschutz GTL 12 Plus instantly blocks emerging pockets of corrosion and reliably protects the engine from overheating.
It goes without saying that even the most modern antifreeze will not save the engine from overheating if the radiator cells are clogged with dirt or grass seeds. So first of all, clean the heat exchanger from what prevents it from coping with its duties.
Ideally, the radiator should be blown out with compressed air. But an electric tire inflation pump is unlikely to be a good ally for you, here you need more powerful artillery, such as in tire shops. You can also flush the radiator with a high pressure washer, but you need to be more careful with it, since a jet of water directed at an angle will easily bend the honeycombs.
It will not be superfluous at the beginning of the season to change the oil in the transmission. In some ATVs, the gearbox is combined with the engine and is lubricated with the same oil as the crank mechanism. But there are all-terrain vehicles with a separate "box".
Transmission oil is poured into such a gearbox. Liqui Moly has Motorbike Gear Oil 75W-90 Synthetic Motorcycle Gear Oil which is just perfect for this ATV assembly. The transmission has the so-called thermal-oxidative stability and resistance to aging, which means that the interval between replacements is significantly higher than that of other manufacturers of oils with a similar viscosity. The main feature of this oil is its high tolerance to shock loads, which guarantees maximum protection for gears and gearbox shafts.
However, not only can this product be filled into the box of an ATV. For most ATV gearboxes, Motorbike Gear Oil 75W-90 is also suitable. But in any case, first you need to familiarize yourself with the specification for your all-terrain vehicle, because, for example, this product will not work in the rear gearbox of the Suzuki King Quad 750. You should fill in a special Motorbike Axle Oil ATV transmission oil with a viscosity of 10W-30, designed for work with frictions.
Pour something else in there and the quadric will be left without rear brakes in an instant. As well as a special fluid, the front gearbox of Polaris ATVs also requires a conductive oil, without which the front axle simply will not connect. And in the front gearbox of the Kawasaki BruteForce ATV, engine oil with a viscosity of 10W-40 is completely poured. In general, before buying lubricant for the gearboxes of your quadric, we strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the specification. Don't know where to get it? Contact the Liqui Moly branded store, where specialists will help you choose the right liquids in the right amount.
No matter what oil you use in your ATV, check the condition of the gearboxes after every ride. When an ATV rides on a dry surface for a long time, the gearboxes inevitably heat up, and as soon as you drive into cold water, a vacuum forms inside the gearbox and water is sucked in through the seals. No, the gearbox is by no means filled to the brim with swamp slurry, only a few grams get into it.
But even this amount of water is enough to change the properties of the oil. You can easily determine this by the color of the lubricant: ideally, it should be golden-transparent.
If the oil is cloudy, blackened or resembles coffee with milk, then this liquid, unsuitable for further use, must be drained, the gearbox flushed with a quick cleaner Liqui Moly Schnell-Reiniger, and filled with a fresh transmission.
High-quality preparation of the ATV for the season and its regular maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free operation of its components and assemblies. The cost of its prevention is much lower than the cost of its further repair.
How to recognize serious breakdown
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How to recognize a serious breakdown
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Engine, ATV, CACOSSISE, MOTHER, Motor CHIRS, AUTOCHIMIA
engine coolingUnit/system: Engine
Fault: How to properly clean the engine cooling system
- The car's instruments detect overheating - Warning signal
sounds - From under the hood there is steam
- Decreased thrust
- Extraneous sounds in the engine
- Pollution of the cooling system with coolant wear products
- Contamination of external surfaces of the radiator
- Failure of the thermostat, pump, valve that regulates pressure, loss of tightness
- Breakthrough of gases from the combustion chamber
-Use of poor quality sealants
The operation of the engine at elevated temperatures has an extremely negative effect on its resource.
Overheating can cause the gaskets to rupture, which will instantly disable the engine. To the occurrence of piston rings, which will lead to loss of compression, increased oil consumption and severe wear of the CPG*, which will require a major overhaul of the truck engine.
In especially severe cases, complete destruction of parts of the CPG * and the cylinder block is possible.
Such breakdowns require a complete replacement of an expensive engine.
* Cylinder - piston group
You should strictly observe the maintenance periods prescribed by the regulations, change the coolant, belts, pumps in time, monitor the tightness and cleanliness of the cooling system!
Flush with Kuhler-Reiniger Cooling System Cleaner
Cleaner for commercial vehicle cooling circuits.
The cleaner removes these deposits and ensures the normal temperature of the engine, its reliability.
Effectively dissolves scale and dirt containing oil in radiators, heating, lines, as well as in the engine.
For all cooling and heating systems.
Does not contain aggressive acids and alkalis.
Optimal capacity for trucks.
Code: 5189
Volume: 1 l
How to use Kuhler-Reiniger Cooling System Cleaner
- add to the cooling system at the rate of 1 l. cleaner for 50 l. coolant;
- start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature;
- let it run at idle for 10-30 minutes;
- the product can be in the cooling system for up to 3 hours, including while the car is moving;
- drain the liquid from the system and flush it with water;
- fill in new coolant.
Use Kuhler Aussenreiniger Radiator Exterior Cleaner
Radiator exterior cleaner.
Perfectly cleans the outer surfaces of any radiators: cooling system radiator,
air conditioner condenser, lubrication system radiator, automatic transmission radiator and others.
