By Wayne Scraba,www.automedia.com
Rotating tires is important (and always has been) for car maintenance. If you rotate the respective wheels and tires on a given axle, tire wear is even. The result is almost always balanced traction and handling over a period of time. Most tire warranties demand the tires be rotated on a specific mileage schedule. And many tire manufacturers recommend rotation at between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.
Tire balancing
Making each tire function in as many of the vehicle’s wheel positions as possible makes evening out tire wear feasible. Naturally, this can’t make up for tire wear caused by tired or malfunctioning mechanical components or improper inflation. When considering the mechanics of a motor vehicle, keep in mind that the front end often has a more difficult task than the rear. For example, in a front-wheel-drive car, the tires are tasked with steering, stopping, moving up and down, and, of course, pulling the vehicle forward. In a high-performance rear-wheel-drive car, you’ll likely find that the rear tires take more abuse than the front. Four-by-four vehicles and all-wheel-drive models bring their own tire wear peculiarities to the party. The bottom line: No matter what the car or truck, the wheel position can cause different rates and types of wear on a tire.
Replacing four versus two
As a tire wears, the tread depth is reduced. If all four tires wear out at more or less the same time, you can replace four tires at once. This is actually advantageous when compared to replacing tires in pairs, simply because you’ll always have equal fresh rubber on all four corners. Additionally, you have to consider that the manufacturers are constantly releasing new and improved tire configurations. The result is that your old tires could become obsolete by the time they’re worn. If replacing only two at once, there’s a good chance you’ll end up with mixed tire technology that could negatively affect how your vehicle drives.
Tire rotation pattern
So far so good, but tire rotation isn’t anything like it was a few decades ago. Way back when, most cars had identical wheels and tires on all four corners, and the spare was also a full-size job that matched the road wheels. That’s a difficult combination to find today, with space-saver spares, spare tires mounted on dedicated steel wheels (with the rest of the rolling stock on aluminum wheels), different wheel offsets and sizes front and rear, mixed tire sizes, and so on. Because of this, the rotation process differs. Here’s a look at some of the many different tire rotation pattern options.
Four same-size tires, non-directional
If the tires are non-directional and the tires and wheels are all the same size, there are three different four-tire rotation patterns most commonly used:
Different-size directional tires, or different offsets
What if the vehicle in question has different-size directional wheels and tires or is equipped with wheels with different offsets (wheel backspace) front and rear? In this case, the tires will definitely require dismounting, remounting and rebalancing in order to rotate the tires. Four other typical rotation patterns are as follows:
Front-wheel drive : The left front goes to the left rear. The left rear goes to the right front. The right rear goes to the left front. The spare goes to the right rear. The right front goes to the spare.
Rear-wheel drive or four-wheel drive: The left rear goes to the left front. The left front goes to the spare. The spare goes to the right rear. The right rear goes to the right front. The right front goes to the left rear.
The idea here is to distribute the wear over five tires throughout their life. This is particularly important on many all-wheel-drive vehicles in that all tires, including the spare, are, in theory, worn identically.
Tire rotation, that is routinely repositioning your vehicle’s tires in specific patterns from front to back or side to side, is an important element of tire upkeep and safety. Additionally, rotating your tires may also be required to keep your tires covered under warranty. For a quick visual summary of tire rotation, check out our Tread Life episode about tire rotation. Read on for more information about what tire rotation is, why tire rotation patterns matter, and the correct pattern for your vehicle’s needs.
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Tire rotation means periodically changing the position of each of the tires on your vehicle. You should rotate your tires as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, or every 5,000 miles. For many of you, that will mean when you get your vehicle’s oil changed.
Regularly rotating your tires also gives you a good opportunity to visually inspect them for damage, check their air pressure, have them rebalanced if you’re noticing any vibration, and check their tread depth.
There are several reasons why tire rotation is an important element of your standard tire care. First, by routinely rotating your tires, wear is spread evenly across all four tires, and their tread life is maximized. That’s because each specific position on your vehicle requires a different give from each tire—(for example, tires on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle will take a larger proportion of the torque and friction that’s needed for turning, accelerating and braking)—and can lead to more, or less, wear on the tire. It is especially important to rotate new tires by 5,000 miles because deep, fresh tire tread is more susceptible to uneven wear.
Secondly, even tread wear keeps the tread depth on your tires uniform, which can help keep traction and handling consistent across all four tires. This will improve cornering and braking performance and keep your vehicle safer for driving overall.
Finally, if your vehicle has all-wheel-drive, evenly worn tires lower the stresses on the drivetrain, reducing wear on expensive drive components.
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Drive more and fill up your tank less*
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Extended mobility PLUS improved performance through the elements
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Tough enough to take a puncture*
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Ready for heavy-duty hauls
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High performance driving all year long
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Handle it all in your high performance CUV or SUV
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Ready for the long haul
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Built to keep you and your workload going
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Keep your life on a roll
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Built for your truck, SUV, or CUV
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Take on the intensity of on and off road driving
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Ready for heavy-duty hauls
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Handle it all in your high performance CUV or SUV
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Next level summer performance for your Sport Truck or SUV
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Ready for the long haul
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Built to keep you and your workload going
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For winters worst
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Luxury takes on winter
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Impressive grip and control
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Navigate through snow and ice in your SUV, CUV, or truck
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Built for blizzards and winters worst in a commerical light truck or van
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Built to get you through this winter
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Keep your commercial truck or van in commission all winter
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Take control of the track
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Sleek, sporty, and cornering performance
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Take your sports car for a spin
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Next level summer performance for your Sport Truck or SUV
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For those looking for a luxury tire experience
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80,000 miles of quiet, comfort and control*
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Keep your life on a roll
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All-season tires that won't stop until they get you there
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Confident all-weather protection
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Drive more and fill up your tank less*
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Extended mobility PLUS improved performance through the elements
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Built for your truck, SUV, or CUV
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Take on the intensity of on and off road driving
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Tires that take you on a thrill ride
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Tough enough to take a puncture*
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Ready for heavy-duty hauls
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High performance driving all year long
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Handle it all in your high performance CUV or SUV
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Take control of the track
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Sleek, sporty, and cornering performance
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Take your sports car for a spin
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Next level summer performance for your Sport Truck or SUV
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Feel the rush with tires inspired by racing
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For winters worst
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Luxury takes on winter
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Chase your competitive spirit
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Impressive grip and control
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Ready for the long haul
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Navigate through snow and ice in your SUV, CUV, or truck
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Built to keep you and your workload going
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Built for the demands of commercial highway driving
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Built for blizzards and winters worst in a commerical light truck or van
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Built to get you through this winter
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Keep your commercial truck or van in commission all winter
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The tire rotation pattern that’s best for your vehicle will depend on the type of tire you’re using, whether your vehicle is front, rear, all, or four-wheel drive, whether your tires are directional or non-directional, whether or not your tires are the same size on the front and rear of your vehicle, and whether you have a full-size spare that can be rotated through as well, unlike a temporary spare. . Let’s take a look at tire rotation patterns recommended by the standardizing body of the tire industry, The Tire and Rim Association, Inc., for all of these possibilities.
SAMPLE VISUAL:For vehicles that are 4-wheel, all-wheel, or rear-wheel drive, the rearward cross pattern is recommended. Rear tires are moved to the forward axle and kept on the same side of the vehicle while the front tires are moved to opposite sides of the rear axle.
2. X-PATTERNRecommended for front-wheel drive vehicles such as light-weight trucks and sedans, all tires are moved diagonally, meaning tires are switched from one axle to the opposite as well as being repositioned from one side to the other.
3. FORWARD CROSSThis is the most common pattern for front-wheel drive vehicles. The front axle tires are moved directly back while the rear tires are moved up diagonally to the opposite side of the front axle.
In order to insure that all of the tires on your vehicle have even tread wear, you’ll want to be sure to rotate your full-size spare tire along with the other four. This is especially vital for all-wheel or 4-wheel drive vehicles where even small differences can put undue strain on your car’s drive train.
1. REARWARD CROSS (REAR-WHEEL OR 4-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES):Both rear axle tires move directly forward to the front axle while the spare tire moves to the right side of the rear axle. The right front tire moves diagonally back to the left side of the rear axle while the left front tire becomes your new spare tire.
2. FORWARD CROSS (FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES):Rear tires are moved diagonally to opposite sides on the front axle while the right front tire becomes the new spare tire. The spare tire is positioned on the right side of the rear axle while the left tire on the front axle is moved directly back into the left rear position.
SAMPLE VISUAL:All tires are switched with their same-sized partner and remain on the same axle. The two rear tires switch to the opposite side with one another while the two front tires do the same.
2. FRONT-TO-BACK (FOR DIRECTIONAL TIRES)All tires are moved from one axle to the other but remain on the same side of the vehicle. For example, the front left tire is moved to the left side of the rear axle while the rear left tire is repositioned on the left side of the front axle.
22 April 2017 Likbez Do it yourself
The ability to change wheels will never be superfluous. Moreover, the process itself takes 10–15 minutes, and everything you need is usually in the trunk of any car.
A punctured tire is usually indicated by noise from outside, as well as loss of speed and poor handling. If the car pulls to the side, and in order to keep it on the road, you have to make an effort, then most likely a puncture on one of the front wheels. If the back of the car starts to skid, then the problem is there.
When this happens, you will know exactly what it is. Don't panic by any means. Align the car and, gradually reducing speed, pull over to the side of the road.
You can't drive with a punctured tire, but it's also not a good idea to stop in the middle of the road. Therefore, do not be afraid to drive a couple of tens of meters and choose a flat, dry place on the side of the road.
It is best to stay away from moving traffic so as not to cause an accident and risk your life.
Drivers of cars with a manual transmission must always engage first gear, and owners of automatic transmissions must shift the lever to the park (P) position.
And in any case, you need to put the car on the handbrake.
After parking the car in a safe place, do not forget to turn on the hazard warning lights and install the warning triangle located in the trunk. In settlements, it is placed 20 meters behind the car, and on the highway - 40 meters.
In the same place, in the trunk, find a spare wheel and a jack with a wheelbrace. Usually the manufacturer places all this in a special niche under the floor, which can be reached by lifting the bottom panel.
It is good if you have a pump and a pressure gauge with you, as well as wheel chocks. And, of course, gloves will not interfere, since you still have to get your hands a little dirty.
After removing all the tools and spare tire, place them next to the punctured tire and ask all passengers to get out of the car. Even if it's freezing cold or pouring rain outside, safety comes first.
Despite the handbrake and the gear engaged, before installing the jack, you must additionally fix the wheels with stops. For them, however, any stones or pieces of brick will pass.
If the rear wheel needs to be replaced, the chocks are placed on both sides of the front wheels and vice versa.
You are now ready to remove the wheel. First, remove the disc from the plastic cap and use the wheelbrace to loosen the bolts. To move them from their place, you will need a lot of effort, which can be provided by the weight of your body by simply pressing on the key with your foot. It is not necessary to completely unscrew the bolts: it is enough to unscrew them one turn.
The machine must then be jacked up. In no case should you install it anywhere. Especially for these purposes, there are small reinforced places on the bottom, which are usually located behind the front wheel or immediately in front of the rear. The manufacturer designates them using triangles or cutouts at the bottom of the thresholds. If the weld is covered with plastic pads, they will break at the jacking points.
Place the jack under the bottom and start turning the jack handle clockwise. Be sure to make sure that the jack rises evenly, does not heel.
If under the weight of the machine the lower foot of the jack sinks into the ground, you need to put something like a piece of board or brick under it.
Do not raise the wheel too much. It is enough to stop 5 cm from the ground. After that, you can completely unscrew the bolts and remove the punctured wheel from the hub. It is better to slide it under the car as insurance, and put the bolts somewhere on a rag so that they are not lost.
It remains to replace the punctured wheel with a spare. To do this, align the holes on the disc with the holes in the hub, put the wheel on and screw on the bolts, completely wrapping them by hand.
It is important to install the nuts that fasten the wheels to the hub with the semicircular side towards the rim, and not out.
Remove the punctured wheel from under the machine, lower the jack and finally tighten the bolts. You need to do it right. On wheels with four or six holes, opposite bolts are tightened in pairs. If there are five holes, then you need to pull in this order, as if you are drawing a five-pointed star.
It remains to assemble the tool, remove the jack and stops, and also check the pressure in the installed wheel and, if necessary, pump it up. If the pump is not at hand, you can ask for help from passing drivers.
If you are using a small spare tire, the so-called stowaway, then remember to be careful: it can usually be driven at a speed of no more than 80 km/h and for a maximum distance of 100 kilometers.
And, of course, try to repair a punctured wheel as soon as possible in a specialized tire shop, so as not to tempt fate and not drive without a spare wheel.
Changing shoes is the hottest topic for motorists during the off-season. In spring and autumn, queues traditionally line up at tire fitting points. But not everyone wants to participate in this ritual: having collected a second set of tires and wheels, many car owners change the wheels themselves. Let's talk about how to do it right - especially since every driver has to change a wheel on the road sooner or later.
To remove a wheel from the car, you first need to get it off the ground - make sure you have a good jack for this. A regular factory jack is in any car, but still it is intended for emergency replacement of a flat tire, and not for regular tire fitting. If you change all the wheels yourself twice a year, it is better to buy a jack more convenient and reliable than a regular one.
Rolling jack is a great solution if you have a garage; you will immediately appreciate its convenience. It is rolling jacks that are used at tire shops, where the speed of work comes first. A few moves and the wheel is already in the air! After a little practice, with the help of a rolling jack, simultaneously hang out two wheels at once - but you must definitely use wheel chocks (stops).
Learn more about how to choose a car jack.
Drivers often ask themselves: why is the car's standard cylinder key so inconvenient? The answer is simple: the length of the wrench is chosen so as not to exceed the tightening torque of the wheel nuts (100-110 Nm for passenger cars). But loosening stuck nuts often requires more force! In addition, the driver is different for the driver: for example, it will be difficult for a girl to tighten the wheel nuts to the nominal torque with a regular wrench. And don't say you haven't seen girls changing wheels.
In order not to have to kick the wrench or jump on it (which threatens to break the wheel studs), buy a reinforced wheel wrench: elongated or telescopic. When tightening nuts with such a wrench, you do not need to be zealous - remember the maximum tightening torque. And it will be much easier to unscrew the nuts.
When changing tires, remember to rotate them to ensure even wear. Usually tires with a large tread remain on the drive axle, because there they wear out more intensively. If the car is all-wheel drive, proceed from the design features of 4WD: the original front-wheel drive car with a connected “rear” wears out the front tires more, and the original rear-wheel drive car wears the rear tires.
Tire rotation is more competently performed according to the instructions for the car - but for this you need to mark each of the wheels in advance (for example, with a marker on the inside of the disk). Examples of standard rotation patterns are shown below, and it is recommended to swap tires for even wear every 10,000 km.
On rear- and all-wheel drive vehicles, the front tires are moved to the rear axle diagonally (Diagram A) or are changed crosswise (B). On machines with front-wheel drive, the opposite is true: the rear tires are moved diagonally forward (diagram C).
Tires with a directional tread pattern cannot be turned without overbeading. To rotate them without removing them from the disks, the front wheels are simply swapped with the rear wheels on each side of the car (Diagram D).
If the car is equipped with a full-size spare tire, not a spare tire, and you have bought a set of five new tires, be sure to include the spare tire in the rotation (diagrams E and F). This will allow you to use the kit longer and easily replace any of the main ones with a spare wheel in case of damage, because their wear will be the same. Thanks to this scheme, buying five tires is more profitable than four, due to the longer operation of the kit.
After removing the wheel, clean the wheel studs with a wire brush and brake cleaner. You also need to clean and grease the mating surface of the hub with graphite grease so that the rim does not stick to it. Graphite is chemically neutral, does not interact with nickel and chromium, therefore it does not oxidize and does not damage rims.
Whether it is necessary to lubricate the studs themselves is an open question: some automakers recommend it, while others directly prohibit it. If you use standard wheel nuts with a cone, which attract the disk well, and observe the tightening torque, then there will be no harm from a small amount of graphite grease on the studs - most importantly, do not use other types of lubricants (for example, lithium) in this assembly.
The wheel mounted on the hub is tightened crosswise (4 studs) or with an asterisk (5 and 6 studs), moving from each nut to the opposite one, and not to the next one - this way the even tightening is achieved.
The wheel nut tightening torque for most cars is 100-110 Nm, SUVs: 120-150 Nm. The exact parameters for tightening the nuts are indicated in the instructions for the car, and to withstand them, use a torque wrench. Of course, not all motorists have it. Without a “speaker”, be guided by the length of a regular wheelbarrow wrench and common sense: do not use the pipe as a lever and do not press on the wrench with your foot.
Tire pressure may change after six months of storage - be sure to check it after installing all the wheels using a manual pressure gauge. Pressure is always measured with cold tires. If the pressure in the tires is different, equalize it with a compressor, otherwise the car will pull to the side when driving.
Learn more about tire pressure: how and why to measure it.
The removed set of wheels must be properly stored until the next season. This requires a well-ventilated, dry area, protected from the sun and precipitation - for example, an indoor heated parking lot. Private garages are not always suitable: if the roof leaks after every rain, then the humidity will destroy the paint on the rims in six months. Too dry air is the other extreme: rubber in such conditions ages intensively, cracks and cracks. Optimum humidity for wheel storage: 55-65% at 20-25°C. Such indicators are maintained all year round in the Tire Hotel Giperavto, a special warehouse for seasonal storage of wheels.