“A tire only loses air if it’s punctured.” This is a common misconception that we have all had or heard and yet the reality is quite different. Indeed, a tire can lose air even without a puncture, as for example in the case of a crack in the valve that is used to inflate your tires. A punctured valve is difficult to detect, and not taking care of it in time can have real consequences for your tire, but also (and above all!) for your safety. Blackcircles Canada, your online tire specialist, offers below a complete guide to the causes and consequences of a punctured valve, and how to repair a leaking valve stem.
A valve is a pin located on the outside of the tire, through which the tire can be inflated/deflated. It has a mechanism consisting of a spring-mounted valve that closes tightly with the air pressure inside the tire. Over time, the stem valve may become brittle and cracked, which may increase the risk of air leaking through it.
When the stem valve leaks, the affected tire is no longer able to retain air. Depending on the extent of the damage, the air will leak out slowly or more quickly. In both cases, the valve must be replaced.
If the air leakage is slow, you will be subject to the problems encountered by drivers driving with underinflated tires. Internal damage that can shorten the service life of the tire by up to a quarter, increased fuel consumption due to higher rolling resistance: the tire will damage faster, and your energy-efficiency will be significantly lower. The tire will also have poorer traction and the stability of your car will be reduced when cornering, not to mention the more pronounced deformation of the tire that increases its internal temperature, which can cause it to burst. Finally, an under-inflated tire increases the risk of hydroplaning. Tire pressure is thus very important!
Here’s how to do it!Step 1: Make sure it’s your valve stem that’s leaking.
First of all, make sure it is the tire valve stem that is leaking. To do so, there’s a very simple trick! Apply a mixture of water and dishwashing soap to the valve with the cap removed. If bubbles start to appear, your valve is leaking. If this is not the case, and there is a definite air leak, it will be located elsewhere on the tire.
Step 2: Gather the right tools before you start!Before you begin, make sure you have all the necessary equipment to complete the replacement of the faulty valve stem.
For this, you will need the following:
You are now ready to start the process!
Step 3: Loosen the nuts on the wheel you are going to work on.
To do so, use the wrench mentioned in the previous step to loosen each of the lug nuts holding your wheel in place. Do this while the car is still on the ground.
However, for certain models of vehicles, it is possible that the wheel nuts have an anti-theft ring. If this is the case, you’ll have to use the appropriate special key to remove the locking nut(s).
Step 4: Raise your vehicle with the jack and then remove the wheel.First and foremost, make sure the handbrake is applied so that your vehicle is completely immobilized. Then, use your jack to lift your car. Be sure to position it on the right part of the chassis so that the car is properly supported. This will prevent any damage to the car and any bodily injury. Once your car is lifted, secure it on jack stands. Unscrew the wheel bolts completely, then remove the wheel. Finally, place the wheel on the ground flat, with the outside of the wheel facing up.
Step 5: Remove the valve stem core with the removal tool and let the tire deflate.
If you have not already done so, remove the valve cap. Then remove the valve stem core using the valve stem removal tool to release the air from the wheel, which should normally deflate completely on its own.
Step 6: Separate the tire’s bead from the wheel.For this step, use the sledgehammer in the following way: hit the tire sidewall with the sledgehammer in the same spot until you hear a crack or popping sound, and see the inside lip of the tire visibly break loose from the rim. This means that the tire has been successfully detached from the lip of the wheel.
Once the tire bead has been broken, continue hitting with the sledgehammer around the tire to detach the sidewall around the entire circumference of the wheel.
Step 7: Remove the tire from the rim.Once the sidewall of the tire is separated from the outer edge of the rim around the entire circumference of the wheel, insert your tire iron between the edge of the rim and the inside lip of the tire, and then pry upward to pull the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel.
Once you have pulled the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel, work the tire iron around the rim until the entire lip of the tire is off the rim.
Once the sidewall of the tire is completely above the wheel, grab it by its removed lip and pull it upward so that the opposite lip that was at the bottom of the wheel is now touching the top edge of the rim. Use your tire iron again by inserting it between the tire’s lip and the edge of the wheel and pry upwards to pull the lip over the edge of the rim. As before, work the tire iron around the edge of the wheel until the tire is removed from the wheel.
Step 8: Remove the defective valve stem and replace it with the new one.Once the tire is separated from the rim, it is time to remove the valve stem. To do this, first pull out the valve stem free from the wheel using the needle-nose pliers. Once this has been done, install the replacement valve stem from the inside of the wheel. Once it is in position, use the needle-nose pliers again to pull it through into its right place on the wheel.
Once the stem is in place, it is time to put the tire back on its rim. To do this, start by pressing the tire down over the rim until the bottom bead clears the edge of the rim. The aim here is to return the lower sidewall of the tire to its original position on the wheel.
Then press the upper sidewall of the tire down underneath the edge of the wheel. Then tuck your tire iron between the tire sidewall and the rim edge and use it to make the opposite movement to the one you used to pull the tire sidewall out of the rim. Once the bead clears the lip of the wheel, use the tire iron to work your way round the entire wheel until the tire is completely installed on the wheel. Then inflate it to the correct pressure using the air compressor.
Step 10: Make sure there are no other leaks, and mount your wheel back on!Once the tire is inflated to the correct pressure, check for other leaks.
If all is well, mount the wheel on your vehicle and bring it down by lowering the level of the jack stands until the repaired wheel touches the ground and you can safely remove them.
Ultimately, it is very important to make sure your tires are free of air leaks to maintain proper air pressure at all times. In the case of a slow air leak, the consequences can be dramatic. If the air leak is due to a faulty tire valve, you will definitely need to replace it. You can either follow the above procedure on how to repair a leaking tire valve or take it directly to a specialist. If, on the other hand, you need to change the entire tire, consult our selection of tires adapted for your car directly online on our website!
Tire Installation 101: When and how to change your tires?
I just filled up my tires and, two days later, my right tire is losing pressure.
I’ve checked the tire for leaks and don’t think the tire itself needs replacing, so my next guess is the tire valve stem is leaking. How do I fix a tire valve stem leak?
Rachel Juillerat · Answered on Feb 18, 2022
Reviewed by Shannon Martin, Licensed Insurance Agent.
Fortunately for you, fixing a tire valve stem leak is both easy and cheap. You just need to purchase a replacement tire valve stem and a valve core tool. A pack containing both of these items is on Amazon for less than $5!
To replace the leaking tire valve stem, do the following:
Note: If you notice corrosion on the old stem, be sure to clean the interior threads of the tire stem on the tire.
While this is an easy and cheap fix, there are some car fixes you may need assistance with, so it’s always a good idea to invest in a solid car insurance policy.
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ua There is nothing more irritating when water drips from the faucet. This negatively affects the nervous system of the tenants of the apartment, and increases the consumption of energy resources, for which you have to pay.
If the faucet is dripping, the breakdown is solved in two ways:
1) call a plumber;
2) fix the leaks yourself.
Those who chose the last option should first of all figure out why the water is dripping from the tap, since there can be many options:
Do not be surprised if an expensive branded ball valve drips - it was not installed correctly. If there is little experience and no skills, do not take risks, call the master. nine0022
A single-lever mixer is usually mounted here.
The result of a leak in 50% of cases is a violation of the integrity of the gasket and rubber or damage to the locking elements.
How and what to do so that the faucet does not drip? You need to buy a repair kit and replace the damaged product. We shut off the water. Then the crane box is disassembled. If it's a worn gasket, change it.
If a leak is observed in the area where the sink and faucet are joined, the most likely cause lies in a defect in the sealing ring. You will need to remove and replace the seal. Given the design differences between the devices, it is advisable to read the manufacturer's instructions. nine0003
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Experts advise to replace the crane box or the entire crane. To replace, you will need a screwdriver to unscrew the screw located on the flywheel under the plug. To unscrew the faucet box, you need a pipe wrench.
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Having changed the gasket and assembled the device, carefully open the supply at the inlet and observe whether water continues to drip from the tap. How to fix plumbing if leakage has not stopped? Without hesitation, you need to contact the services of a plumber and remember the technology of work in order to repair similar breakdowns on your own in the future.
We looked at why the faucet drips in the kitchen and what steps should be taken.
Types of shower and bath faucets:
For repair work, have on hand:
This type of plumbing most often fails, but the repair cost will be lower due to the use of rubber seals for stuffing boxes and locking parts. Although experts recommend more effective silicone seals, this will not affect the service life.
There are 2 types of valves:
Specialists distinguish between the following failures of the faucet mixer. Let's consider them in detail.
Fault #1. The valve does not block the flow, causing water to seep through the gooseneck. The reason is the wear of the seal on the crane box. To fix the problem, you need to buy seals (rubber or plastic). And it’s better to keep a repair kit in the house so as not to waste time buying when a breakdown occurs. Choose flexible rubber seals. Rigid products quickly become unusable. nine0003
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If the tap in the bathroom drips, what should I do? Procedure:
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Fault #2. A valve is leaking. We find the area where the liquid leaks. If the tightness or integrity of the thread is broken, the axle box is unscrewed, the worn seal is removed, new layers of fum-tape are wound, the knot is assembled and tightened. If a leak comes from the stem, the clamp nut is unscrewed, the seal is replaced (it is better to take a moistened linen cloth).
These instruments are easy to use and maintain. In this case, the ceramic cartridge is replaced as it cannot be repaired.
What to do if the faucet in the bathroom with a single-lever valve is leaking?
Procedure:
Ball valves are the second largest single lever valve in sales. They are characterized by reliability and durability. The service life depends on the quality and design of the parts. Plumbing performance is greatly affected by pollution and mechanical impurities contained in water.
We recommend installing coarse and fine filters, which are metal meshes, in front of the locking device. They allow you to trap large solid and microscopic inclusions. nine0003
Usually, threaded ball valves that are used on pipes in an apartment are not repaired. Their design consists of two halves of the body, which are pressed in at the factory with a special glue, so at home it will not be possible to achieve the desired tightness.
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The appearance of a gander-shower leak indicates the need to change the gasket and perform a number of manipulations:
If water is leaking from the hose, there is only one way out - replacement.
Here are a few simple tips that can significantly extend the life of the product:
nine0022 If you bought a new faucet and it leaks after installation, feel free to contact the seller and demand a refund or exchange of products. In our article, we looked at what to do if the faucet is dripping. We hope our information will be useful.
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March 22, 2020 Likbez Do it yourself
This manual will help troubleshoot broken valves or buttons, water leaks and other problems.
The toilet consists of a toilet bowl, a cistern and a seat with a lid. The bowl serves as a base and is fixed to the floor with screws. It contains a siphon, which is connected through a cuff or a flexible corrugation to the sewer. The main function of the siphon is a quick flush due to the gravity of the flow and the pressure difference. This part is constantly filled with water and works as a water seal, preventing unpleasant odors from spreading. nine0003
The flush cistern is either mounted on the bowl shelf in compact toilets or fixed to the wall in old style sanitary ware. From the side or from the bottom, the container is connected to the water supply with a flexible connection, which is connected to the filler fittings. The latter, in turn, is equipped with a float valve that controls the filling of the tank with water to the desired level.
In the same place, inside, there is a drain valve responsible for draining water. It is to it that a button is attached through a special mechanism, with which we control the flush.
To protect against overflow, the drain valve has an overflow pipe. Through it, in the event of a malfunction of the float valve, water flows into the toilet, and not onto the floor. nine0003
Now reading 🔥
Most of the malfunctions are associated with the drain and fill mechanisms. To eliminate such breakdowns, you need to disassemble the tank. So let's first look at how it's done.
In older toilets with a plastic cistern, the lid is held on by snaps and removed by moving upwards. Sometimes you additionally have to pry its edges with a screwdriver or other sharp object.
In today's compact toilets, the lid simply rests on the cistern and is fixed only by a button. Therefore, to remove the part, you must first unscrew the bezel of the button counterclockwise and remove it.
In some toilet models, the push button mechanism is secured with a screw hidden inside. In this case, pry off the top of the button with a sharp knife or thin screwdriver, and then unscrew the screw and remove the button. nine0003
There are also drains equipped with a stem with a handle that lifts up. To remove it, you need to lift the ball and unscrew it counterclockwise, holding it by the stem.
First, turn off the water at the inlet to the toilet bowl, and then grasp the flush mechanism with your hand and, turning it slightly counterclockwise until it clicks, lift it up. Sometimes there is a latch on the armature that needs to be pushed back before removing the mechanism. nine0003
To replace the drain valve with fittings of a different design or manufacturer, the mechanism, including the seat, must be completely removed. To do this, remove the tank and unscrew the large nut from the bottom.
The filling valve with side connection is very easy to remove. It is enough to remove the cover and disconnect the flexible hose, and then unscrew the fixing nut from the outside and pull out the mechanism.
Bottom fitting is more difficult. First, remove the flexible hose and tank cap. Then wash off the water and remove the drain valve. Next, unscrew the nut with which the filling valve is attached from below, and take it out. If the water has not drained completely, it is better to substitute a basin or other container so as not to spill everything on the floor. nine0003
In older toilets, it is plastic and can be removed quite simply. First, they shut off the water supply and wash off the residue, and then lift the lid and unscrew the screws that secure the tank to the wall. After that, unscrew the flexible hose and the nut of the drain socket at the bottom of the tank.
On compact toilets, the tank is attached to the bowl shelf, so it is taken apart differently.
The first step is to turn off the water and press the flush. Then remove the cover, remove the drain and fill fittings and remove the remaining water with a sponge or cloth. Next, a flexible eyeliner is unscrewed, as well as the fixing screws of the tank from the bottom of the toilet bowl. nine0003
If a puddle forms in the area of the connection to the sewer socket or at the outlet of the toilet bowl itself, the cause lies in the drying of the cuff or a break in the flange of the flexible corrugated pipe. With a rigid connection on plastic pipes, there are practically no such problems.
This is corrected by replacing the corrugation with a new one, while it is important to carefully install it without kinks and kinks. As a temporary solution, you can treat the joint around the pipe with silicone sealant, after wiping and drying this place. nine0003
There may be several reasons for such a problem, but they all boil down to the fact that there is some kind of barrier that prevents water from entering the tank. It is better to start the search with the simplest options and gradually move towards the more complex ones.
The first step is to turn off the water and remove the flexible hose from the side or bottom of the toilet. If there is a blockage, clean it and check the pressure by opening the water and lowering the hose into a basin or other container. If the jet is good, the next step is to check the filter inside the supply valve. nine0003
It has the appearance of a plastic mesh insert. You need to get the filter, clean it in the presence of dirt and rinse under the tap. Then the part is installed in place and checked if the situation has changed.
It should be borne in mind that some valves may not have such a filter.
If cleaning did not help, you need to remove the tank cap, remove the filling mechanism and, having unscrewed the valve nut, carefully examine the contamination under running water, clean the channel with a thin wire, remove deposits from the rubber membrane. After that, everything is assembled in the reverse order and installed in place. nine0003
If water is still not drawn in, most likely the valve itself is faulty and will have to be replaced with a new one.
Noisy filling is usually a problem with cisterns with side connection. Due to the design features, the valve is located on top and a jet of water, falling to the bottom of an empty tank, creates noise. To reduce it, special muffler tubes are installed at the valve outlet, reaching the bottom, along which the flow flows.
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Often such tubes fall off, and sometimes they are completely absent. Therefore, as a solution, you need to return them to their place or select and install new ones of a suitable diameter on the valve outlet. The length of the hose should reach the very bottom or even lie on it.
If water is constantly flowing into the bowl in a thin stream, then the fill or drain valve is not working. If the first one breaks down after filling the tank, the water does not shut off, but if the second one is faulty, the collected water is not retained by the valve. nine0003
To determine which valve is not working, you need to press the drain and watch:
In very rare cases, both mechanisms do not work at the same time. Also, overflow can occur due to improper setting of the filling valve - how to adjust it is described at the end of the article. nine0003
To eliminate the problem, you need to remove the reservoir cap and remove the filling mechanism. Next, you need to unscrew the valve nut and carefully remove the rubber membrane from it. From it, as well as from the valve seat, remove rust and scale deposits with a toothbrush, then rinse well with water. If the channel inside is clogged, clean it with a thin wire.
In older tanks, remove the cap from the valve, pull out the rocker shaft and remove the problematic part. With a thin knitting needle or wire, you need to clean the channel, and then rinse with water. nine0003
After cleaning and assembly, everything should work. If this does not happen, the diaphragm or the entire filling valve assembly will have to be replaced.
Gaskets for this mechanism are rarely sold separately. Therefore, just try to turn the old one upside down: it will still serve for some time. Alternatively, you can sand it with sandpaper, and then stick a circle of bicycle inner tube or other thin rubber on top.
First of all, you need to turn off the water, drain the liquid from the tank and, removing the residue with a sponge or rag, remove the drain valve. Next, you need to remove the gasket and clean it from rust deposits. If possible, it is better to replace the gasket with a new one. nine0003
If you can't find one, try flipping it upside down, or placing some kind of weight, like a large nut, on top of the valve to help the diaphragm press against the seat better. If all else fails, you will have to change the entire drain mechanism entirely.
Sometimes fillers with a float inside the cup get stuck due to rust due to rust.
This leads to the fact that when filling the tank, water enters the glass from below, and not overflowing over its edge. As a result, the valve closes ahead of time and the tank is not filled to the desired level. nine0003
To solve the problem, turn off the water, flush out the residue and remove the filler mechanism. Next, remove the bracket and pull the plug valve out of the glass. Then it is necessary to clean the part and its seat from plaque, and also make sure that the plug fits well on the glass and moves freely.
Leakage from the bottom of the cistern can occur if the cone gaskets of the mounting bolts or the large rubber ring between the toilet bowl and the cistern have failed. nine0003
In both cases, turn off the water and press the flush, and then remove the cover, remove the filling and drain fittings. After removing the remaining water, unscrew the mounting bolts and carefully inspect all seals for cracks.
It is advisable to replace the gaskets with new ones.
If you can’t find the same ones, you can thoroughly clean them, dry them and install them in place, having previously lubricated all joints with silicone sealant.
A problem with the flush button is usually caused by the fact that when fully pressed, the stem catches on the valve mechanism and jams. In this case, often replacing the button itself does not give anything. There are several solutions. nine0003
The simplest thing is to unscrew the button, press it a little, sinking a couple of millimeters, and then put it back in place, holding it in this slightly pressed position. So the part looks a little recessed, but due to the reduced stroke it will not jam at the extreme point.
For the same purpose, you can cut a ring 2–3 mm high from a plastic bottle cap and place it under the button. To do this, use a screwdriver to press the latches on the sides of the mechanism and pull the button out of the case.
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The rubber cuff that connects the cistern pipe to the toilet outlet dries out over time, loses its elasticity and starts to leak. Toilet repair in this case consists in replacing the problematic part. First you need to turn off the water and rinse.
If a new part cannot be found, a 50/40 mm rubber reduction can be installed instead. Unlike the cuff, it is inserted inside the toilet bowl, and is not put on top of it. Otherwise, there is no difference, and this will not affect the operation of the mechanism in any way. nine0003
As a temporary solution, you can carefully remove the old cuff, clean and dry it, and then install it, treating the joints with silicone sealant.
Water is leaking from the drain pipe nut due to a gasket installed inside the tank. Often it is cut by burrs from casting defects on the nozzle or shifted to the side when twisting.
Also, the membrane itself may be of poor quality.
To eliminate the defect, turn off the tap at the inlet to the tank, rinse off the water and remove the drain valve, first unscrewing the decorative nut on the socket, and then the clamping nut. Next, you need to clean the burrs with a sharp knife along the entire plane of the gasket and assemble everything in the reverse order, securely holding the pipe with your hand when tightening the nut. nine0003
If this does not help, the gasket itself is most likely of poor quality. In this case, you need to cut a new one from a suitable piece of rubber 2–2.5 mm thick, using the old part as a template or tracing the nozzle with a pencil.
Water leakage at the junction of the nozzle and drain occurs due to poor fit or deformation of the cone gasket. And it needs to be replaced with a new one. If such a gasket is not at hand, you can temporarily seal the joint with FUM tape. nine0003
To do this, turn off the water supply to the tank and empty it.
Next, unscrew the decorative nut, slide the cone gasket down a little and wind three or four turns of the FUM tape into the resulting gap. Then the gasket must be lifted up, tighten the wound tape, and then tighten the decorative nut, holding the pipe with your hand so that it does not turn.
The flush and fill valves must be properly adjusted for the toilet to work properly. Otherwise, flushing will be poor, due to the fact that the tank is not filled enough or the water does not drain properly. nine0003
In valves with a float inside the cup, it is necessary to remove the lid of the tank, shut off and drain the water. After pressing the glass latch, you should set it at such a height that the upper edge of the part corresponds to the mark on the overflow pipe (usually about 2 centimeters from its top). Then snap off the adjusting rod, lower the float to the bottom of the cup, make sure the bracket rests on the bottom, and then click the rod to fix the position of the float.
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In mechanisms without a glass, everything is much simpler. The height of the float and, accordingly, the amount of water in the tank is adjusted by twisting and unscrewing a long threaded pin. The higher the float, the more water is collected, the lower - the less.
To adjust, unscrew the button, remove the cover and remove the drain valve, having previously flushed the water and turned off the tap at the inlet. Next, you need to return the lid to its place and measure the distance from its top to the bottom of the tank with a tape measure. nine0003
Remove the cap again and replace the drain valve. Then tighten the button, release the rod lock and adjust the height of the mechanism so that the distance to the bottom of the button corresponds to the previously measured one. The missing millimeters are easy to catch due to the thread of the button, without wrapping it all the way.
The next step is to set the frame of the mechanism at an angle downwards and fix it in this position with the rod lock.
At the same time, the button moves freely in the guides, and the pusher does not raise the frame so that the valve does not open slightly. nine0003
In the neutral position, the drain valve is closed and should fully rise when the button is pressed. If the adjusting rod rests against the bottom of the tank, it should be cut off.
Finally, it is important to make sure that the frame of the mechanism does not hit the overflow tube when the button is pressed. If this happens, you need to remove the mechanism and lower the frame below. To do this, unscrew the nut, carefully slide the ring gasket and, sinking the tube a few millimeters, tighten the nut.
In older toilets with a plastic cistern, the water level can be easily adjusted. If it is a wire rocker, it is enough to bend it to raise or lower the valve to the desired height. In more modern versions with a plastic hinge, it is necessary to loosen the screw connecting the two halves of the rocker and give it one shape or another.
Simple manipulations will remove blockages and improve pressure. 
