In the winter season, when the cold hits us hard, we quickly realize if we are missing something essential to prolong the rides during this kind of weather. Frostbite at the extremities of our body undoubtedly takes away the pleasures related to our outdoor activities.
It is at this precise moment that we realize the importance of having heated grips to enhance our rides. It is an inexpensive addition that can be done with very few tools and some basic experience.
– The first, self-adhesive type, offers the advantage of keeping the original handle grip and is available at low cost. It requires that the original grips be removed with care if we wish to reuse them after the installation. On the other hand, as in the case of our Can-am Outlander, the use of glue during the factory installation of the grips makes recovering them almost impossible and requires the purchase of a new set. The heating elements of this option also have a limitation on the spread of heat caused by the thermal insulation property of the original rubber grips.
– The second option is more robust, but also more expensive because the heating element is integrated into the new handle grips. These complete sets allow us to proceed with the replacement of the original grips simply because they will no longer be necessary. This kit is the most efficient and has no interference to slow down the diffusion of heat. Therefore, they are more direct, efficient, and faster than the filament systems used in the past.
We decided to install the Kimpex Heated Grip and Thumb set. The main characteristics are as follows:
1- Neutralize the energy source. Your vehicle’s battery might seem harmless, but it is a potentially life-threatening storehouse of electrons looking for a way out at the speed of light.
Therefore, always remove the terminal from the ground (negative) terminal first. This greatly reduces the risk of a battery short circuit. Second, remove the positive terminal.
2- Start to disassemble your existing handles:
Once the end caps are removed, you need to remove the existing rubber grip from the handlebar metal tube. These are usually glued and won’t come off easily. Slip a flathead screwdriver between the rubber and the bar and squeeze it left and right to break up the glue joint. You can also cut the handles using a sharp blade. Make sure to completely remove any adhesive deposits using sandpaper or such material.
3- Insert the new handles on the end of the handlebar:
Take care to insert the new Kimpex handles correctly. If they are difficult to insert, this is best, as they will firmly stay in place. On the other hand, the use of a lubricant is an option when the insertion is too laborious. The use of a rubber-tipped mallet can also be used to complete the installation.
4- Install the heating surface on the throttle thumb:
Peel off the self-adhesive backing behind the heating surface and carefully place it on the thumb of the throttle. Insert the shrink band and use a heat gun for a perfect fit.
5- Installation of the switch:
Two installation methods are possible. First, it is possible to install it on the rounded surface of the handlebar using a clamping ring. For our part, we have opted for a self-adhesive film in a place that we have pre-selected.
6- Find energy for the wiring harness:
Now you need to find 12V power for your new heated grips. You can wire the grips directly to the battery, but it’s a bad idea because if you accidentally leave the heater on, you’ll kill your battery in a flash. What you want is to connect it to a switched power source which only turns on when the ATV is running. If your ATV is equipped with an accessory power source, this is essentially what we are looking for.
Our Can-am Outlander is equipped with a 12V accessory socket that we will use. We have therefore taken care to connect all the wiring near this source, taking great care to attach everything with zip ties to avoid friction and wear that could affect its proper operation. This Kimpex set also has the advantage of having quick connect fittings.
We connected the 2 wires to get our positive source (+) as well as our grounding (-). We have taken care to insulate everything to protect our connections.
7- Finally, reconnect first the positive terminal to the battery followed by the negative.
8- Test the operation: press the switch installed on the handlebars for a few seconds to activate it and to check the 5 levels of heat intensity. There you are! An easy addition that you will be proud of and that was installed very quickly.
In conclusion, the DIY addition of the heated grips and thumbs is a wise and beneficial decision. The result will allow you to make long rides in the cold season.
The investment will quickly pay off thanks to the convenience that the heated grips and thumb will provide.
| Assuming your grips were installed per our installation instructions: Tutorial on Test Meters-Click Here Resistor: The resistor's only function is when you select the "Lo" switch position: The voltage goes through the resistor before it reaches two heated grips. It creates a voltage drop of one third of the available voltage so that the heated grips produce less heat. When on "Lo" the resistor will get hot, so it must be mounted on a metal heat sink in moving air flow. Do not mount on plastic, or you will have melted damaged plastic. Use nylon wire ties (nylon can take the heat), safety wires, or other means to secure it. Do not mount it in an enclosed area where heat can build up. In the cases where the instructions indicate the grips must be wired in "series", (such as model 101,102, 103, 104,105, 106, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 301, 302, 401, 406) you must be careful not to wire the grips incorrectly ("parallel") or the resistor might build up so much heat that it melts (or causes brown discoloration) of the resistor case. With all other models (such as those that are designed to be wired in "parallel", i.e. 475-875, 475-876, 475-879, 525-875, 525-876, 525-879, 575-875, 575-876, 575-879, 475-100, 475-106, 475-109, 525-100, 525-106, 525-109, 475-ATV, 525-ATV and 575-ATV) a melted or discolored-brown resistor can be caused by a faulty voltage regulator, mounting it without a metal heat sink, mounting it with no air flow, or mounting it in an enclosed area where excess heat is trapped. Switch: The 3-position switch has a pivot mechanism inside the housing, which you cannot see. When the switch is moved to "Hi" or to "Lo" it connects the center terminal to the diagonally opposite terminal (diagonally opposite to the toggle pole). Epoxy: You must use a slow-cure type 2-part epoxy because the grips get hot, and excessive heat can break down the lower temperature quick-epoxy. J.B. Weld epoxy is fine, or Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy. Both are often found at auto parts stores, or at your local Wal-Mart store. At Wal-Mart it is in the aisle where they keep the automobile oil additives. If other brands are available to you, avoid any that discuss 5 minute cure on the packaging. Look for 250 degrees F. service duty. Voltage Source Testing:................. You can troubleshoot Hot Grips® most easily at first with an independent voltage source, i.e. one independent from your vehicle's electrical system. Remove center wire ( or cut it a few inches away) from the Hot Grip® 3-position switch, and use an independent voltage source. IMPORTANT EXCEPTIONS: Honda Gold Wing, Honda Magna, Honda Valkyrie, 475-875, 475-876, 475-879, 525-875, 525-876, 525-879, 575-875, 575-876, 575-879, 475-100, 475-106, 475-109, 525-100, 525-106, 525-109, 475-ATV, 525-ATV and 575-ATV models are to be wired in "Parallel" like in their own respective instructions. With grips that are wired in series you can either test one grip at a time or both together. But disconnect the center terminal of your switch from your vehicle's power source, and hook up your independent voltage source at that point. Turn the Hot Grips® switch to "Hi" and the grips should heat up in 3-5 minutes. If not, then you need to check resistance of each grip, and the switch. Bypassing the switch is easy, instead of wiring your independent voltage source to the center terminal, just wire it to wire going from the switch to the first Hot Grip®. Basic Resistance Test: Some Hot Grips® such as models Ergo 1, Ergo 2, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 301, 302, 306, 401, and 406 have an electrical resistance of 2.4 ohms each, though YAMAHA original equipment heated grips from 1990 through 2001 are 3.0 ohms, and most street bike models (Honda Gold Wing, Honda Magna, Honda Valkyrie, 475-875, 475-876, 475-879, 525-875, 525-876, 525-879, 575-875, 575-876, 575-879, 475-100, 475-106, 475-109, 525-100, 525-106, 525-109, 475-ATV, 525-ATV and 575-ATV models) are in a range of 8 to 10 ohms. To test the grip's resistance, use a volt-ohm meter and set the meter to Rx1 or lowest most sensitive resistance range. Zero adjust your meter if it has that feature, by touching the two test leads together and pressing your meter's reset button or adjusting the appropriate control.
If the meter reading shows an open circuit, or infinity, then possibly a break has occurred where the lead wires enter the grip. This might happen if more than 20 pounds of force had been placed on the lead wires, or if you failed to use epoxy on the grips, and they rotated while riding the vehicle. If this has happened, you have two options: replace the grip, or repair it by cutting open the area where the lead wires enter the grip, and re-soldering where it broke. If the meter reading shows a closed circuit (zero ohms) then instead of breaking the connection from too much force, the two lead wires have been pulled together and are touching, electrically bypassing the grip's internal 63" of resistance wire. Your options are to replace the grip or cut open the area and separate the two lead wires or brass crimps you find inside. Some installation problems can occur when the installer selects a power source that is inadequate to power the Hot Grips®, but may be powerful enough to run a test light. Just because a wire lights up a test light, that doesn't mean it has the power to run a 30 watt accessory such as Hot Grips®, or any 30 watt load, such as a headlight. To test against this potential problem, take the same wire you are using to feed the Hot Grips® switch, and wire it to a 30 watt headlight, or to two 15 watt brake light bulbs wired in "parallel". (An exception is the Honda Gold Wing model Hot Grips®, which are 18 watts per grip, and 36 total for the pair.) If they only light up dimly, then clearly the wire chosen is not powerful enough to do the job. Your installer has chosen a wire( voltage source) that already is fully using it's available power capacity running other electrical loads. Or it could be that with your magneto electrical system, it doesn't generate a full 12 volts at a low rpm engine speed. Good Soldered Connections are important and we've found that the 3M squeeze on connections are not reliable over time for two reasons. Often there is a mismatch in the wire gauge of the Hot Grips® lead wire (20 AWG) and the 3M connector on hand. And, over time, we've observed these connectors result in oxidation of the connection, the exposed copper strands of the wire turn green with corrosion. The same problems can occur with the push together 1/4" spade connectors. Ground Connection is critical, you cannot just check with a test light bulb for continuity because your eye cannot perceive minor voltage drops. Check with a volt-ohm-meter and make sure your ground connection is zero ohms. If you have 1 ohm or more then that small resistance is contributing to poor heat output on the grips. Make sure the paint is scratched off under the ground connection. Wired Switch Backwards? Possibly your "Hi" and "Lo" heat positions are reversed. When you place the switch to the "Hi" position, it is electrically connecting the center terminal to the diagonally opposite terminal from the toggle position. This is due to a hidden pivoting mechanism inside the switch. If you installed the wires wrong, then "Hi" would be "Lo" and "Lo" would be "Hi". Wired Grips Wrong? If the instructions described wiring the grips in "series" then that means voltage goes into one grip then out to the second grip before reaching electrical ground. "Parallel" wiring would mean each grip has it's own ground wire. Most Hot Grips® are wired in "series", so each grip only effectively gets 6 volts on a 12 volt system. (Note Honda Gold Wing, Honda Magna, Honda Valkyrie, 475-875, 475-876, 475-879, 525-875, 525-876, 525-879, 575-875, 575-876, 575-879, 475-100, 475-106, 475-109, 525-100, 525-106, 525-109, 475-ATV, 525-ATV and 575-ATV models are wired in "parallel" which means each grip will get 12 volts and have it's own ground. If you have a 12 volt battery in the system, you still need time to build up heat in the grips, but at least the full 12 volts is available at idle or low engine speeds. Yamaha Special Note: On some Yamaha snowmobiles the original equipment grips are fed 18 volts in series so that each grip receive 9 volts. This results in 27 watts per grip with our 3 ohm grip, which explains why Yamaha grips are the hottest grips on the market. Replacement Resistors or Switches: Ordering just a resistor or a switch from the website is costly to you on the shipping. However RADIO SHACK stores have an acceptable substitute: Resistors: Radio Shack #271-131 cost two for $2.99 and you should use both of them wired in "series" to give you 2 ohms. Don't let them dangle by their lead wires, support them on a metal surface (not plastic) with nylon wire ties just like the original Hot Grip® resistor. Each Radio Shack resistor is rated at 10 watts/ 1. We hope this has been helpful in troubleshooting. It is very difficult to abuse the Hot Grips® electrically, if they are wired correctly. Of course if you take a kit designed to be in 'series' wiring and instead you wire them in 'parallel', they will get too hot - 400% of intended watts, and melt the grips fairly quickly. The internal heating wires are very heavy gauge, not sensitive to voltage spikes like a light bulb, and will not break or "blow" like a fuse (or like printed resistance circuits used for handlebar heaters). In fact the resistance wires alone can tolerate over 1500 degree temperature, so the rubber on the grips will melt long before the heating wire will fail. Summary: Most common fault is wiring, either an installation error, oxidation (corrosion) in connectors (we warned you in our instructions to solder them), or damage to the wires where they enter the grips. If you used the quick-and-dirty hookup to power with blue 3M Scotch-Lok connectors you are going to have a problem down the road. They are a very bad solution especially because the blue ones don't match our wire gauge, they are designed for larger gauge wires. Secondly they invite corrosion at the wire-crimp site. Replacement Grips: for snowmobiles and all-terrain vehicles can be purchased on the internet website at www.hotgrips.com or call us for current price. We accept MasterCard, Visa, Discover Card, and PayPal. Specify which grip you have by model or detailed description: Models include: SNOE, HW, (in Black, Red, Blue, Purple, Green) SND-ATV in Black or Red, Street Bike original 401 small diameter 7/8" handlebars Left or Right Grip, Harley Davidson 4. Sticky, gummy grips that wear quickly and leave black residue on your gloves and hands. By riding with leather gloves that have been treated with a leather preservative, the grips are constantly getting that preservative pressed and rubbed into them under high temperature, changing the chemical makeup of the grip. The MINK-OIL treatment of your leather glove palms can ruin the grips. One fellow from California admitted using a hair dryer to melt the mink oil paste into his leather gloves to treat them. That would be MANY times worse than getting an external petroleum based spray on the grips (which we discuss below), because whenever you ride with those treated glove palms the grips are being exposed to hour upon hour of a modifier-substance that is being pressed and twisted with elevated temperature into the grip outer surface. The "rheology of the grip surface" has changed permanently and NO treatment can reverse the process. When you attempt to solve the problem by exposing the grips to yet more petroleum based treatments, you just make it worse. You might sprinkle baby talc powder on them (and your glove palms) to reduce the tackiness but I don't know how long that would be effective before additional application is needed. Replacement of the grips will not solve the problem, since it is exposure to the MINK-OIL in the leather glove palms that is the cause. The only way to prevent it would be to cover the grips when new with anything that is either a natural rubber, a PVC (vinyl), or some other polymer that is not attacked by leather preservative. If you pre-wrap the new grips in tennis racket rubber wrap, and the tape wears out, that is cheap to replace. Many grip manufacturers use the same Shell Kraton-G that we mold with, but some are molded in PVC (poly-vinyl-chloride, aka "vinyl"). The advantage to a manufacturer is that PVC is very inexpensive as a raw material, about 40% of the cost per pound as what we mold with. The problem with PVC is that it gets slippery when wet, unlike the material we use, which stays tacky when wet. There is a company called California Sport Touring that sells "Grip Puppies": http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycles/GRIPPUP.html I have read online of riders using the "Grip Puppies" over our product to 1) absorb vibration and 2) make the grip a fatter diameter which they prefer. The drawback reported is that they are an insulator and reduce the ultimate heat you'll feel, AND it'll take much longer for the heat to get thru the "Grip Puppies". Another bad idea is to expose the grips to solvent such as gasoline, a gasoline product, spray brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, or general purpose bike cleaner such as Greased Lightning, Simple Green, even the ever popular S100, etc. Unrelated to our grips but an important example of consequences of not rinsing off Simple Green cleaner off bare aluminum is the resulting aluminum corrosion: Simple Green reports: Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. Look at the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) of the cleaners and you will see the strong chemical contents of them. Battery Drain: Here's a good link to Jim Davis' site in Nagono, Japan on a problem of your battery going dead from current drain. I'll let him take over on it, he knows his stuff: Eastern Beaver Company |
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About the store
ATV is an extremely convenient means of transportation on rough terrain.
There are practically no obstacles for him - such a transport will easily pass through any mud, swamp or ravines, where even the most powerful equipment will immediately get stuck, not to mention ordinary cars. It is for these technical characteristics that these vehicles are becoming more and more in demand in our country every year. nine0013
Our online store, which specializes in the supply of spare parts and accessories for ATV tuning, is distinguished by low prices and excellent service. A wide range of products allows you to meet any demand for the required parts, including accessories for your equipment. So, we offer not only canisters or trunks, but also speakers for listening to music.
In the 2006-2007 season, the model range of the well-known American manufacturer included both fundamentally new models and modernized models. The Polaris 600 HO IQ CFI belongs to the first category, as it is the new generation of the Fusion snowmobile, well-known to fans of “winter” equipment.
The main difference between the 600 HO IQ CFI and the previous model is the engine. The twin-cylinder 600cc liquid-cooled Cleanfire Injection (CFI) engine is based on the latest compact-block Liberty 600. The engine has the same stroke and compression ratios as the carbureted 600 HO of yesteryear, but has also been modified for fuel injection. nine0013
The proprietary Cleanfire Injection system delivers fuel to the cylinders through four nozzles - two for each cylinder: one of them is used at high engine speeds, the second - at low ones, which increases the efficiency of the engine as a whole. The result is similar to the action of automotive valve timing systems: the engine pulls perfectly both during acceleration from a standstill and at high speeds.
With all this, the engine managed to be made four percent more powerful than the previous generation 600 HO (125 hp at 8250 rpm). Polaris says the new 600 HO CFI is 43% greener than the industry average.
nine0013
The American press has already dubbed the stylish and daring yet easy-to-handle Polaris 600 HO IQ CFI snowmobile a "class leader" that will tear through any trail. The main merit in obtaining such a flattering assessment is the IQ suspension.
This chassis is entirely the brainchild of Polaris Industries engineering and has proven itself time and time again in US and international snowcross competitions. Patent-pending triangular front arm suspension provides strength, durability and stability for any driving style. nine0013
Snowmobile front suspension uses RydeFX high pressure gas shock absorbers with 254mm of compression travel. The track is suspended on two shock absorbers: the same Ride FX in the front and progressive gas-filled FOX with a stroke of 353 mm in the rear. Both shock absorbers work "in conjunction", allowing the rear suspension to easily work out both small "comb" and serious roughness of the track.
Polaris 600 HO IQ CFI also received an upgraded steering system.
The new ski geometry provides more precise handling and reduces steering effort at the same time. nine0013
Unlike the Fusion, the new 600 HO IQ CFI is not equipped with a height-adjustable handlebar, but with a fixed handlebar. This is done so that the driver, who professes a sporty, aggressive driving style, can easily get up from the saddle and change the position of his body, “weighing” the snowmobile in turns. The handlebars on all models of the series are hook-shaped, which also increases control over the device even on the most difficult tracks.
Standard equipment includes a digital instrument panel (speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, temperature / low oil level indicator) and heated handlebars. On request, you can install an electric starter, a 12-volt outlet, rear-view mirrors, a trunk and a towbar.
The Polaris XLT Touring snowmobiles were pre-1999 elite snowmobiles.
Also known as the Indy XLT Touring model, these snowmobiles include several features designed to provide enhanced riding comfort. Standard Indy XLT features include a backrest as well as hand and thumb warmers. Later models of the XLT Touring edition used much of the same equipment as previous years' models. nine0013
The 1998 XLT Touring snowmobile uses a 597cc three-cylinder engine. This motor has a 65mm bore and 60mm stroke and uses a liquid cooling system. It uses an electric start system with a CDI type ignition system. The 1998 XLT uses RFI type RN3C Champion spark plugs with a 0.028" gap.
The XLT drive system uses a P-85 style drive clutch with a 12" center distance and 5/8" clutch offset that uses a 10 mega-gauge sleeve clutch mass. The drive clutch is a 7.85 diameter and uses a standard gear train with a cast clutch spider. XLT chain has 66P-3/4 drive chain and 66P 9 drive shaft sprocketT-4. Chaincase also has a 20:40/3/4 sprocket ratio and standard reverse gear.
The XLT uses an X-12 style front suspension with 10 inches of travel. It uses adjustable radius rods and AFX type shocks with a 5/8 torsion bar. The rear suspension uses XTRA 12 type suspension with 12.8 inches of travel. XLT springs use an adjustable coil front torque arm and a torsion/coil rear torque arm with a spring diameter of 0.437 at 77 degrees. nine0013
The XLT Touring snowmobile uses a 133.5-inch track with polyester-c construction and a lightning-style track pattern. The track has a pitch of 2.52 inches and a width of 15 inches. The track has a boss height of 0.82 inches.
The 1998 XLT uses skis that are 40 inches long and 5.5 inches wide. It has a ski center distance of 42.5 inches, an overall width of 48 inches and a length of 115 inches including skis. Fully unloaded XLT weighs 599pounds. Fluid capacity includes three quarters of coolant, 10.7 gallons of fuel, and 11 ounces of chain oil.
This autumn gave every reason to believe that in the near future snowmobiles will turn from seasonal transport into the main one.
Manufacturers of snow equipment are already ready for such a development. The variety of offers that is observed on the snowmobile market gives rise to quite fair suspicions: have the snowmobile builders agreed with the heavenly office? If you have not yet chosen a worthy replacement for your car, then check out the new products from Polaris, which will be relevant this winter. nine0013
Polaris 800 PRO X Strictly speaking, the 800 is just the tip of the iceberg, the top model among the latest PRO X series racing snowmobiles. speeches.
Lightweight chassis PRO X as a result of close work with "Polaris" engineers became stronger and shed extra pounds. The sled differs from its less extreme brethren with a heavy-duty suspension that allows the rider to jump from mind-boggling heights, as well as some typically sporty elements like anti-skid foot pads and a lighter, taller handlebar. Under the hood of the machine is a liquid-cooled Polaris Liberty 800 twin-cylinder engine with a VES exhaust system that increases torque in the low and mid-range revs.
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Polaris Indy 700 Classic Touring The most powerful touring model, the 700 Classic Touring is based on the new EDGE chassis. The main task of this model is to provide maximum comfort to the driver and his colleague: even the passenger seat is equipped with a backrest, adjustable and heated handles, and adjustable footrests. The main distinguishing feature of the snowmobile is a transforming trunk, which can be turned into a passenger seat. Of course, after such manipulations, the car becomes single. Of the other "extra" tourist "classics" we note an electronic reverse gear, an electric starter, a socket for connecting external devices and a towbar. nine0013
The machine is equipped with Ryde AFX nitrogen chamber shocks with an unprecedented range (300%) of compression adjustment with a simple turn of a screw. And another thing that Polaris engineers are proud of is the snowmobile's record-breaking suspension travel.
Polaris Indy Frontier Touring Not the most powerful, but the most nature-loving "tourist" in the Polaris lineup is unique in its motor.
About him - in more detail.
New 48 hp EFI Polaris Liberty 780 four-stroke engine. with. facilitates starting and provides more stable operation at idle compared to two-stroke. According to the technical documentation, this is the first four-stroke engine designed specifically for snowmobiles, and not adapted from other motorcycles. The engine turned out to be quite compact and light, besides, to lower the center of gravity of the car, it is located as close to the ground as possible ... Sorry, to the snow. nine0013
IN THIS SECTION YOU CAN FIND USED POLARIS SNOWMOBILE SPARE PARTS AND REfurbished PARTS WITH A LIMITED WARRANTY!
Attention! The presented spare parts at the time of your request may already be sold or be in reserve - check with the managers of our company for information on the availability and possibility of delivery!
| Polaris Rush Pro R IQ CFI 4-inj 600 Engine Motor Dragon Switchback Shift Ele St | 1680 $ | ||
Polaris Rush Pro R IQ CFI 4-inj 600 Engine Motor Dragon Switchback, Core Req. | 1680 $ | ||
| 1998 Polaris XC 700 Liberty Twin Snowmobile Engine Classic | 840 $ | ||
| Polaris XCR XLT 600 598cc Monoblock Fuji Triple Snowmobile Engine, PTO Oiler | 720 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra 680 Triple Snowmobile Engine Touring, XCR SP 600 700 EC68PL-01 | 690 $ | ||
| Polaris 800 CFI Snowmobile Engine Twin Cylinder Monoblock IQ RMK Dragon 3021843 | 510 $ | ||
| Polaris Fusion 900 RMK SKS 700 Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft Crank-Core Required0696 | 480 $ | ||
| Polaris RXL 650 EFI Fuji Triple Snowmobile Engine Motor | 450 $ | ||
| Polaris XLT 580 Monoblock Fuji Triple Snowmobile Engine, Touring XCR 600 Special | $450 | ||
| Polaris XC SP 800 Pro X 2 Liberty Twin Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft Classic RMK | 360 $ | ||
| Polaris XCR 800 Fuji Triple Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft | 360 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy Lite 340 Fuji Twin Snowmobile Engine GT Touring | 300 $ | ||
| Polaris XC SP 600 700 Liberty Twin Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft Classic Deluxe | $300 | ||
Polaris Fusion 900 Engine New Reman. Cylinder, RMK Switchback 3021576 | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris Fusion RMK Switchback 900 Engine New Reman Cylinder 3021615 | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris Rush 600 CFI Snowmobile Engine New Reman Cylinder, Pro R 3022206 | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris IQ 600 CFI Snowmobile Engine New Reman Cylinder, Dragon RMK 3021718 | 270 $ | 4Polaris RMK Fusion 700 755 CFI Snowmobile Engine New Reman Cylinder, 3021562 | 270 $ |
| Polaris XC SP 600 700 Liberty Twin Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft Classic Deluxe | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris IQ 600 Fusion Carb Engine New Reman Cylinder, Dragon RMK 3021542 | $2700696 | 270 $ | |
| Polaris Indy Lite 340 Fuji Twin Snowmobile Engine GT Touring | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra XCR SP Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft 600 680 Touring XCR600 700 800 | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra 680 Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft XCR SP 600 Touring XCR600 700 800 | 270 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy 600 650 Engine Complete Bottom End Crankshaft Cases EC60PL-02 | 240 $ | ||
Polaris XC 800 VES Pro X Engine New Reman. Cylinder, Classic RMK SKS 3021339 | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris Liberty 600 700 Snowmobile Engine Cases Crankcase XC SP Classic, Deluxe | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris XC 700 SKS SP Snowmobile Engine New Reman Cylinder non-VES 5131220 | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris XLT XCR Monoblock Triple 580 600 Indy Snowmobile Fuji Engine Crankshaft | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris XC 800 VES Pro X Engine New Reman. Cylinder, Classic RMK SKS 3021329 | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris Pro X 440 XCF Fan-Cooled Engine Reman. Cylinder Jug Fan Sled Snowmobile | 240 $ | ||
| Polaris VES 500 Snowmobile Engine New Reman Cylinder XC SP RMK 3021029 | Cylinder XCR XR 3021304 | 240 $ | |
| Polaris Ultra 680 Engine Cylinder Newly Plated SP | 222 $ | ||
Polaris XC 800 non-VES Snowmobile Engine New Rem. Cylinder, RMK SKS 3021064 | $222 | ||
| Polaris XCR600 Engine Cylinder New Reman. XCR 600 SP | 222 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra 680 Engine Cylinder Newly Plated SPX | 222 $ | ||
| Polaris XCR 440 Engine Reman. Cylinder Jug 3022065 XCR440 Snowmobile | $222 | ||
| Polaris Indy 500 400 440 Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft LC Touring SKS Classic | 210 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy Lite 340 Snowmobile Engine Crankshaft Deluxe Part #3083577 | 180 $ | ||
| Polaris XC Pro X 440 Twin Snowmobile Engine Standard Nikasil Cylinder 3021075 | 180 $ | ||
| 2004 Polaris VES 600 Snowmobile Engine Cases Crankcase Set XC SP Classic Pro X | 180 $ | ||
| VintageRace Polaris Centurion 500 Indy 600 650 Snowmobile Fuji Triple Crankshaft | 180 $ | ||
| Polaris 800 5632373 Twin CFI Engine Stock Twin Cylinder Head Rush Pro R RMK | 180 $ | ||
| Polaris XC 700 VES Pro X Engine Cylinder, Classic RMK SKS 3021203, Core Required | $1800696 | 180 $ | |
| Polaris XCR 440 Fuji Twin Snowmobile Engine Standard Nikasil Mono Cylinders | 180 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra 680 Fuji Snowmobile Engine Good Used EC68PL Cylinder,SP | 150 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy Trail 488 Snowmobile Engine Case Set Touring Crankcase | 150 $ | ||
| Polaris XC 500 VES Engine Cylinder/Piston Classic 3021185, Core Required | 150 $ | ||
| Polaris VES 600 Snowmobile Engine Good Used Cylinder XC SP RMK 3021087 | 150 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy 500 Engine Case Set 440 LC Touring SKS Classic 65mm PTO Bearings | 150 $ | ||
| Polaris XC RMK SKS SP Classic 500 Liberty Engine Cylinder2 Head 3 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris XC RMK SKS SP Classic 500 Liberty Engine Cylinder Head 3021048-03 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy RXL 650 Engine Standard-Bore Stock Cylinder | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Liberty VES 600 Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Pro X XC SP0695 Polaris Ultra 680 Triple Snowmobile Engine Stock Cases Crankcase Set Touring | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Liberty VES 600 Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Pro X XC SP 3022057-04 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris XCR 600 Fuji Snowmobile Engine Cylinder, SP Polaris Engine Motor | $1200696 | 120 $ | |
| Polaris Indy 650 Triple Snowmobile Engine Standard-Bore Cylinder | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Storm 750 Triple Snowmobile Engine Stock Cases Crankcase Set 800 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris XC SP 800 Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Switchback RMK 3021294 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Storm 750 Triple Snowmobile Engine Stock Cases Crankcase Set | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Ultra 680 Triple Snowmobile Engine Stock Cases Crankcase Set | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris 550 Twin Snowmobile Engine Stock Cases Crankcase Set Supersport Edge RMK | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris XLT Special XCR 600 Monoblock Triple Snowmobile Engine Case Set XCR600 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris XC RMK SKS SP 600 Engine Cylinder Head 3022029-03 | 120 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy 440 SS440 EC44PM-01 Cylinder and Piston Fuji Twin Engine Sport | $90 | ||
| Polaris Indy 500 Fuji L/C Twin Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Classic Touring | 90 $ | ||
| 90 $ | |||
| Polaris XLT 580 Engine Cylinder Heads XLT580 600 XCR | 90 $ | ||
| Polaris XC RMK SKS SP 600 Liberty Twin Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head 3022029 | $6 | 90 $ | |
| 1998 Polaris XC 600 RMK SKS SP Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Classic | 90 $ | ||
| Polaris XLT 580 Monoblock Engine Cylinder Head Special | 90 $ Polaris Indy 500 Fuji L/C Twin Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Head Classic Touring | ||
| 5 Polaris SPI OEM-Type 900 CFI Twin Snowmobile Engine Piston T Coated Fusion RMK | 72 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy 400 LC Fuji Twin Engine Cylinder Head | 60 $ | ||
| Polaris 550 Snowmobile Engine CDI Ignition Box F8T18971 Supersport XCF Touring | 0696 | 60 $ | |
| Polaris 440 Fuji Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Indy Tran Sport Trail XCF | 60 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy XLT XCR 600 Monoblock Triple Snowmobile Engine Cylinder Heads | 60 $ | ||
| Polaris Indy 500 Engine Cases, Crankcase Set 500 L/C | 00 Twin Snowmobile Engine Water Pump Shaft RMK Switchback | 60 $ | |
| Polaris Indy 650 RXL Triple Snowmobile Engine Standard-Bore Cylinder | 60 $ | ||
| Polaris Liberty Fusion 900 Engine Cylinder Head RMK Switchback 5631376 | 60 $ | ||
| '01-'05 Polaris SPI OEM-Type 800 Twin Snowmobile Engine Piston Assembly T Coated | 54 $ | ||
Polaris NEW SPI Indy Lite .  |
Excessive voltage can also be responsible for melting or discoloring-brown of the resistor, for example such as a faulty voltage regulator, using a power source that does not benefit from the voltage regulator, mounting it without a metal heat sink, mounting it with no air flow, or mounting it in an enclosed area where excess heat is trapped.
So when you move the toggle pole up, it sends the power down. When you move the toggle down, it sends the power to the upper terminal. The diagram packaged with the product is correct, even though it may look backwards.
Use a car battery or a 12 volt battery charger with minimum 3 amps output to feed power to the switch. Ground the last grip's (if they are wired in "series") wire to the car battery or battery charger's negative. You've bypassed any voltage source problem that may originate from the vehicle.
If your meter has no zero adjust feature, then you must first touch the meter contacts together and make a note of the resistance value. Subtract it from your test results.
0
If you do not have 12 volts at idle, then don't expect the Hot Grips® to heat up to their potential.
Some snowmobiles have a wired ground substitute and don't use a "frame ground". 
) If your grips were mistakenly wired in "parallel", then each is trying to work off 12 volts, which would mean the load on the electrical system would be 60 watts per grip instead of 15. (The electrical Ohm's Law rule reads: Volts x volts divided by ohms equals watts) 60 watts is far too great, and if your system could keep up with this demand, the grips would melt, or catch fire, but more likely your electrical system is overloaded, and this can cause problems such as blown fuses, damaged components,or poor heat.
This is the reason your headlights are dimmer when at idle.
0 ohms/ 10% tolerance. If you want a lower "Low" heat you can buy two packages and hook up 3 of Radio Shack resistors in series for 3 ohms. Switches: Radio Shack #275-654 is a simple on-off-on switch, designated SPDT (single pole double throw, center off.) Auto parts stores are a good source for a 3-position SPDT toggle switch.
However the grip's do have a weak point, and that is they cannot tolerate too much force being placed on the lead wires entering the grip. They are good for 20 pounds of force, and beyond that, you can break the wire or the internal crimp connection. Be sure you use epoxy to prevent constant excessive rotation or movement of the grip, because that movement causes the wires to break. Secure the wires so they cannot be accidently caught by your hands while riding.
Solder all connections, epoxy the grips on as instructed, and they should last long enough for the rubber to wear down, which would take years. One BMW rider reported over 50,000 miles on his motorcycle and the grips were worn smooth, but still heated up. You can extend the life of the grips with various coverings such as "Grip Puppies" or other specialized foam coverings designed to be used with heated grips. We've had customers report extending their use by re-wrapping the grip area with rubber tape such as tennis racket handle re-wrap tape.
75" length 1" handlebars Left or Right Grip, Ergo 1 and Ergo 2, 5.25" length grips for both 7/8" and 1" handlebar diameters and their respectively larger throttle sizes, Honda Gold Wing 5.75" length left or right Grip. Determine if you need "Open-End" since we bore them out at no charge.
..causing the oil migration into the grip. Oils are used as a polymer-modifier in the raw material stage of producing the polymer pellets, long before we get the resin pellets and injection mold the grips.
These powerful bike and automotive cleaners will dissolve insects, chain lube, and road grime on your bike and are meant to be applied and then rinsed off thoroughly. If you do NOT follow the cleaner's manufacturer instructions then the cleaner chemicals may attack the grips and ruin them. All of these cleaners are powerful bike care aids which if not thoroughly rinsed off as instructed by the manufacturer... may be absorbed by the grips. We have confirmed that the stronger the degreasing effect, the more damage the cleaner can have on the grips if not washed off. Better yet, do not use them on the grips at all, as a simple soap and water is all they need. Always read the cleaner's instructions thoroughly.
However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
