How to make fender flares for atv


Super ATV POLARIS RANGER XP 900 FENDER FLARES – PlanetSXS.com

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  • Keywords : august2022 fender-flares fits_ranger-xp-900 fits_ranger-xp-900-crew ranger-xp-900 ranger-xp-900-crew super-atv superatv

How to Install Fender Flares on a Polaris RZR Trail S 900/RZR Trail S 1000

Length: 6:40
Created: May 14, 2021

Transcript

Stock fender flares just not cutting it? Getting mud in the cab—dirt, debris, everything like that? SuperATV’s got you covered with our heavy-duty extended fender flares.

We have a stock fender flare. To give you a comparison—there isn’t a comparison. Ours are way wider, constructed of a heavy-duty material, and today we’re gonna grab some tools and get them installed on this Polaris RZR Trail S 1000. Lets get right to it.

Getting Started

[00:51] We’re starting on the rear. Remove the whole fender here, and also, if you’re running the factory Polaris full doors, remove them. Whenever you’re trying to get it off, it gets hung up by the tab inside of the door, so remove the door completely.

The first portion of hardware we’ll remove is the T40 TORX, and then these two screws here so we can remove the frog skin. Grab that T40 and remove it.

Look straight up through the fender—you’ll see two push pins. Remove both of them, then remove the T40 that’s in the bed as well.

Take out these four screws to remove the door off of the hinge. Remove the door and then the passenger side seat to make it easier.

Remove the Fender

[01:57] Next, remove the following two T40s on the inside. Use a T25 and loosen this clamp, and then flip it down so it is out of the way. Remove this push pin and then remove the fender.

Now that we have the fender removed from the machine, you’ll notice a push pin here, here, as well as here. Remove all three of those push pins at this time.

Get a flathead screwdriver. I like to take the flathead, slide it behind the fender flare, and get this tab popped out. Wiggle it in there and pick it up until it gets past the actual lip of that clip.

Do that for the rest of them here as well. Peel them back a little bit. Get the screwdriver in there, work it out, and then get this last one here. And there’s the stock fender flare. We don’t need that anymore.

Attach the Fender Flare

[03:32] Take the new fender flare and orient it the same way the factory one was. And this part is tricky because you’re trying to hold the fender flare and the fender and get them all to line up together.

Get it snapped back into the factory clips. It should look like this. Take the push pins that we removed and install them to the same exact position that they came from.

We’re ready to reinstall the fender as well as the new fender flare—exactly the same way that it came off. There’s one portion back here that you have to watch. There’s this little tab that sticks out.

Take it and lip it in. You’ll feel it. It’ll go into place, and then slide the fender flare back to where it was. Reattach the fender using the factory hardware that you previously removed.

Reinstall the door. Slide it right onto these tracks here. Get one started in the top and one started in the bottom. Once you have all your hardware in, fully tighten all of them.

Remove the Front Fender

[05:17] Moving onto the front fender, remove all of the following hardware and then remove the fender.

Get this push pin removed, and then remove the fender. Remove this clip off of the factory fender. You might have to get a screwdriver to do it. However, sometimes you can pick them off.

Install the clip we removed on the same location on the new fender flare. We’re ready to get the fender flare installed.

Finishing Up

[06:02] Reinstall the factory hardware in the same exact location it came out of. Once you have all the hardware fully tightened on this side, repeat the same steps for the opposite side.

And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s heavy-duty extended fender flares on this Polaris RZR Trail S 1000.

For more information on these fender flares or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call or check us out online. Thanks for watching, and we’ll catch you next time.

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Do-it-yourself arch extensions

equipment » You are reading the article:

by Eugene

Self-tuning of a car is common among motorists in our country. Your favorite car has to be brought to the desired appearance and optimal performance. Often one of these operations is the installation of wide-profile rubber. However, in such a case, you will have to mount the arch extensions with your own hands.

The use of extensions provides reliable protection of the body from dust and dirt. It also increases safety from damage to the machine flying out from under the wheels of small stones. A car tuned in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwheels looks more presentable and harmonious.

Contents

  • 1 Variety of options
  • 2 Self-assembly
    • 2.1 Method of self-assembly of the kit
    • 2.2 Application of mounting foam
    • 2.3 Using Sculpture Clay
    • 2.4 Working with Styrofoam

Variations

Functional decorations that elegantly hide wide wheels are called fenders in some sources. Such elements can be selected in a car shop, as well as made independently, choosing the most suitable shape and materials.

In cars, you can find the following types of overlays for arches:

  • Rubber. The blank is sold in rolls, is relatively inexpensive and has good resistance to mechanical damage. It is mounted in most cases on off-road cars and can serve as a mudguard.
  • Plastic. Models are relevant for sedans, on which there are rollers with wide treads. Behind the external beauty lies an impractical fragility.
  • Fiberglass. The material visually resembles plastic, but unlike it has increased strength. Do-it-yourself overlays for wheel arches are often made from it.
  • Fiberglass. A more expensive option than fiberglass. However, the cost is offset by significantly greater impact resistance and resistance to difficult climatic conditions.

Initially the outside of the stock from the magazine can be unpainted or pre-primed. The texture is glossy or matte.

Self-assembly

Before you make your own arch extensions, you need to know the general rules for attaching these tuning elements. If standard plastic elements are used, then you will need to use a building hair dryer to fit the blanks as accurately as possible to a real car.

It is important to know that it is recommended to fix the lining on the arches not only with masking tape and sealant, but it is also desirable to use self-tapping screws that will ensure maximum fit and secure fixation.

In most cases you will need the following set of tools:

  • electric screwdriver;
  • Flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
  • set of drills with diameters 3-8 mm;
  • sockets and spanners.

Before proceeding directly with the work, it will be necessary to wash the vehicle with automotive products and then dry the surface thoroughly. The attachment area must be degreased with improvised materials or an aqueous solution of alcohol (about 50%). The preferred ambient temperature should be between 19-26 C.

How to assemble the kit yourself.

The algorithm for most models of modern cars will be almost the same.

Unscrew the screw holding the edge of the bumper near the arch. Next, we adjust the gap and apply the finished element - the arch. We fix the bumper without tightening it with a self-tapping screw, and then with a 24 head and a ratchet we unscrew the nut that opens access to the plastic threshold of the car.

We apply the fender to the arch and assemble the threshold into its original position. It remains to install the fasteners in compliance with the gaps. We tighten the screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Foam application

Homemade arch extensions are often made from building foam. Affordable material attracts not only with its physical characteristics, but also with an affordable price tag. When working, it is necessary to apply a layer each time, considering that it will expand.

Foam is usually applied to universal plastic fenders fixed to the body with self-tapping screws. The building assembly material gives volume to the workpiece, after which it is necessary to wait for the surface to dry completely. The freezing period is indicated on the package.

Sculpting is carried out independently with the help of such devices as:

  • stationery knife for giving the main shape;
  • coarse-grained sandpaper removes small flaws;
  • with fine-grained sandpaper I provide the initial polishing.

Reinforce the structure with epoxy and fiberglass. Four or five layers will give good rigidity. At the end of the final drying, they are subjected to grinding and final staining.

Use of sculptural clay

Good ductility provides sculptural clay with many advantages. It is easy to quickly give such a structure the desired shape or correct imperfections.

It is necessary to work with the material after covering the nearest body surface with strips of masking tape. The rubbing of the layers is carried out gradually so that the structure thickens. It is necessary to monitor the symmetry of the work. Upon reaching the desired result, we carry out processing with fiberglass and resin to tighten the structure.

Remove the matrix after drying and remove the plasticine layers from the inner surface. We provide adjustment of the resulting workpiece. We fasten the elements to the car body with self-tapping screws and sealant. Next, we carry out painting work, including priming, puttying and painting.

Working with Styrofoam

Arch Extensions can be made using Styrofoam. However, this will require artistic skill and a lot of patience.

The process begins with the obligatory degreasing of the vehicle surface prepared for treatment.


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