ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV How To's > Krylon fusion plastic paint.
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Mxjunkie
03-30-2006, 11:13 AM
When your plastics are just about clapped out and you dont have the money to get brand new plastics just yet this product comes in handy. I was leary about using it at first but I didnt have 500 dollars to spend on plastics, had a motor to build :devil:
I first sprayed a cr80 rear fender I had and let it sit for 24 hours like krylon recomends I even did some flames on it just for laughs. When I went to grab it I dropped it on the floor.. Didnt chip I was amazed usually paint from a rattle can isnt this durable! I proceeded to bend the living piss out of this fender, jump on it even bend it so it would stay bent and pop back. To my surprisement the paint didnt crack, chip, splinter or anything!
With that said, here comes the techincal blibber blabber for you guys Any questions about this, feel free to PM me
Materials- 3-4 cans of Krylon fusion paint, Cleaner, 320-400 grit sand paper, String.
Clean the plastics, use a grease cutter, carb cleaner anything of the sort to remove anything that will react with the paint.
Second step, Sand the plastics LIGHTLY with 320 or 400 grit sand paper. When I mean lightly you dont have to put alot of force into the sanding, let the paper do the work. Any areas you cannot fit sand paper into use a s.o.s or scotch brite pad and scuff it.
Once you have sanded both bottom and top of your plastics clean them once again, if possible blow them off with a air chuck to make sure that there isnt any dust to interfer with the paint.
Krylon recomends to paint the plastics in a area 65-70 degrees, this helps the paint cure.
For painting if possible hang the plastics in the air so you can make sure you get every possible nook and cranny. Spray the bottom of the fenders first. This is so you dont get over spray on the top. If you spray the top first, when you are spraying the bottom the overspray will go onto the top and make it grainy.
Spray in LIGHT coats, dont try and paint them in one spray it will create runs also the paint will lift is there is to much in one area.
Now that they are painted Kryon recomends they sit for 24 hours for the paint to cure.
...:::: Plastics before :::...:scary:
Mxjunkie
03-30-2006, 11:14 AM
Plastics after krylon..
::::BEWARE::::
Stickers do rip off the paint. If you put stickers on it, besure you want them there!
Also, at the rausch ride I did manage to chip the paint finally, if your ever going to ride in muck, mud or anything like that I wouldnt recomend it. I had probaly a good 10-15 pounds of mud per side doing jumps etc and thats the only time it ever chipped.. Good stuff :cool:
theTman
03-30-2006, 04:00 PM
stuff works good..
BEFORE
theTman
03-30-2006, 04:01 PM
AFTER
Blood500
04-02-2006, 06:02 PM
how long did you let it site between coats ?, and did you use a clear coat after ?
flyin#5
04-02-2006, 10:42 PM
i would wait about 15 minutes between coats.
this gas IS NOT GAS RESISTANT. so if you use it near your gas tank be careful when fueling up. if you do spill dont wipe it off, it'l take the paint right off. clearcoat helps to prevent this i've been told... havnt tried it though.
Hondaexboy
04-03-2006, 08:59 PM
does any of those plastic cleaners/scratch removers take the paint off?
Mxjunkie
04-06-2006, 12:15 PM
Originally posted by flyin#5
i would wait about 15 minutes between coats. this gas IS NOT GAS RESISTANT. so if you use it near your gas tank be careful when fueling up. if you do spill dont wipe it off, it'l take the paint right off. clearcoat helps to prevent this i've been told... havnt tried it though.
If you get it off in time it doesnt take it off but it lifts the paint, I learned the hard way :o
The clear will help but when it chips you have to sand all the clear down, paint then clear again.
Zak529
05-05-2006, 08:37 PM
has anybody who used the krylon paint cleaned their bike with a pressure washer ahter they used it.
...if so will it chip or lift the paint or damage it in any way
30ex-man
05-24-2006, 05:50 PM
if you have one small chip and the power washer gets that chip it is all over the paint will lift up and go bye bye
theTman
05-24-2006, 06:15 PM
Originally posted by 30ex-man
if you have one small chip and the power washer gets that chip it is all over the paint will lift up and go bye bye
never happened to me...
250r4life
06-05-2006, 03:09 PM
where do you buy this stuff?
Mxjunkie
06-10-2006, 06:21 PM
walmart, pep boys etc..
ThorR88
06-11-2006, 10:06 PM
just used it on my R i had a yellow 400ex and i traded it for this 310r and my hipers were yellow so i bought that spray paint and heres how it looks....
jake300ex
06-16-2006, 09:03 PM
Ok guys just finished my project with painting the whole body krylon fusion blue.
My 300ex was red before and was in terrible shape. I put 10 coats of paint on seperated by 25 min. each on everything along with 5 coats of clear, and my end result was DECENT. The paint is chipping pretty good in some places. Where the bumpers rubbed together just a litle bit putting the rear end on the front bumper paint completely scraped off about 3 inches down. The paint really is not holding up like it should be, but i guess it is better than what i had before? I am kinda upset with this project. I worked 8 hours on it and went through 2 cans of clear, 5 cans of blue fusion. In my own opinion i would say this project is not worth it, unless your bumpers are cracked all the way down the sides like mine was. Save your money and get some new plastics. Oh yea, and i did hand sand the **** out of the body before i painted. I followed every single instruction. Thanks for the post though! good write up...
ruffryder88
06-19-2006, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by ThorR88
just used it on my R i had a yellow 400ex and i traded it for this 310r and my hipers were yellow so i bought that spray paint and heres how it looks.
... You did10 coats with only 25 minutes of dry time in between each....no wonder why its not holding up...lol
ThorR88
06-19-2006, 06:03 PM
? no did 2 coats and it holds on fine......
jake300ex
06-20-2006, 03:59 PM
where does it sound like i went wrong? I let it sit for 36 hours before riding with the bumpers on too
suzukichick
07-01-2006, 11:01 PM
i'm not positive, because i haven't read the can for instructions yet, but to the best of my knowledge (i work with paint a lot) you should try to minimize the number of coats of paint because the more coats of paint that you have on your plastics, the thicker the paint will be, thus needing even More time to cure. I'm a girl, and here's the analogy i use for ppl not sure if it helps?? Think of when a girl paints her nails, she starts with a thin coat, and lets it dry, then adds another thin coat the next day...she doesnt spread it on thick and try to type on the keyboard with her newly painted nails!! :) I know you may not relate, being a guy, but at least you might get the idea im trying to get across.
Even though the can may say to wait 25 min. between coats, it depends on the spread rate at which you spray the paint on with. If you oversprayed too much, then you would have to wait even longer for the 1st coat to dry. Hope this helps you for future projects! ;)
*ayla*
wolffie
07-12-2006, 10:42 AM
i did a few coats but then sanded them down with steel wool in between. my final coat consisted of just two coats about 30minutes between them.(it was also like 80* outside though)
suzukichick
08-31-2006, 10:41 PM
The humidity is a big factor also, because if you have moisture in the air, that will affect the way that the paint dries. You may not even be able to see the little air bubbles that form on the surface of the paint. but after you let it dry for 30 minutes, you may still have moisture on or in the paint and when you put that next coat of paint on, you are going to lock those bubbles in place, therfore, ruining all the work you did in the first place.
you will see that the paint will soon start to peel, bubble, crack and just not hold up very well because of the moisture. To cure this problem, exspecially in the summer, or rainy or humid days, paint in a garage or shed of some sort and plug in a dehumidifer or air conditioner. That may not be possible for some ppl, so plan you day when the humidity is down a bit, if you keep an eye on the weather in the morning, they usually tell you...
As far as painting goes, my fiance and i just wanted to let you guys know. we primed and painted our racks with Rustoleum Brand grey primer and then the next day with black texture paint, it's a really sandy, fine texture. They turned out awesome!! Will have to get some close ups for this site! They are perfect for the rack because now they have a lot of grip, and the paint has held up really well even after putting a chainsaw on the racks to do some yard work and also putting rubber straps onto the sides of them! Our next project is to prime and paint the same color and texture on this little pull behind trailer my fiance welded together for the atv.
He just got done welding the metal mesh floor to it tonight, so i think we may be able to paint this weekend, as long as it doesn't rain! :) I would highly recommend it to anyone who has rusty peeling nasty racks(which im sure many of you do!) The texture blends in quite nicely with the dark green and black colors of the atv! But always remember, if you are going to paint, prime FIRST!!! Even if you dont have a painted surface, because its hard for paint to adhere to glossy surfaces, and primer ALSO makes ur final coat of paint look a lot better and smoother, a more professional look. And in addition to looks and adhesion, it will help with the durability of your paint job, helps prevent cracking, peeling, flashing, fading, chipping! It's a wonderful thing!! :)
*ayla and justin*
YATES
09-23-2006, 11:38 AM
I have some banshee plastics that already have a coat of paint chipping off them, not sure what kind of paint.....anyway, what should I do with them before attempting to paint them?
Mxjunkie
10-03-2006, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by YATES
I have some banshee plastics that already have a coat of paint chipping off them, not sure what kind of paint.
....anyway, what should I do with them before attempting to paint them?
Sand them with 400 grit sand paper till smooth, clean them and then you can spray them :)
Or if you want you can get paint stripper and remove the paint just make sure you get all of the paint stripper off the plasitcs before painting them..
firefighterjosh
11-14-2006, 04:51 AM
Josh your at 10000 posts:eek2:
Anways I may do this to my 400ex plastic since I dunno want to speed the mula on new right now.. How many cans for front and rear plastic? 5 cans be good? I am not sure what color to do yet. Silver or black. Here is the my quad silver before I bought it
firefighterjosh
11-14-2006, 04:52 AM
Wrong pic oppss here is another one
ltownfam8
11-20-2006, 06:34 PM
i painted my plastic wit the right stuff the paint peels right off n **** looks ugly u think i did somthing wrong
Mxjunkie
11-27-2006, 07:11 AM
Originally posted by ltownfam8
i painted my plastic wit the right stuff the paint peels right off n **** looks ugly u think i did somthing wrong
Sounds like you tryed to paint them at once and the paint is too thick.
.
did you sand it?
YFZRB
11-27-2006, 08:08 AM
I haven't done any plastic painting, but do plenty of cabinet painting and paint and lacquer spraying. Maybe you should sand with a more course sandpaper first. The idea is to make some significant scratch patterns for the paint to grip to. Maybe 180 or 220 grit. Then after a primer or first coat then got use the 400 grit to flatten out the first coat. Just a thought on why everyone is peeling. I'm thinking of doing mine as well over the winter so keep posting results.
Mud_Slinging
11-29-2006, 07:09 PM
I cleaned,sanded,cleaned,dried, painted, clear coated....
BEFORE
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v730/Matt-Suter/My%20fourwheeler/DSCF0008.jpg
AFTER
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v730/Matt-Suter/My%20fourwheeler/newlights1.jpg
wolffie
12-08-2006, 01:58 PM
that came out good man.
Blue_Streak23
12-09-2006, 03:36 PM
^^That does look nice, was the frame painted too, or pc'ed?
Mud_Slinging
12-10-2006, 01:14 PM
Sanded,Painted, then Clear coated too, with Automotive Paint with Metallic Flake.
Quadjunkie
01-14-2007, 11:53 PM
Does anyone know if there is such a thing as clear primer? If so, does krylon make some?
Dr89
04-28-2008, 05:09 PM
yea you can buy clear primer. i wouldn't though, i did once and it was a pain trying to tell what was already covered, how thick, etc, and then trying to sand it down smooth without going to deep....yea.
hondarider101
04-30-2008, 05:09 PM
how well would this hold up on a hood for a 450r?? if i did the steps right and let it bake in the sun for a day or 2 between coats.
hvpunk62
10-25-2008, 08:34 PM
i heard stickers will rip off krylon paint but will masking tape?
motox92
11-24-2008, 05:14 AM
Where can I buy this?
907Rider
11-24-2008, 12:06 PM
Where can I buy this?
Walmart
02-05-2009, 05:39 PM
lol, broke down and did it. Came out good actually.
http://i271.
photobucket.com/albums/jj126/Hondamaster5505/Banshee011.jpg
hypersnyper6947
02-06-2009, 09:36 PM
looks good, if my plastics were not in such awesome condition i would do this, i want white plastics, which is far from my kawi green.
Let u know how it holds up once you get that banshee finished.
bigreddh2
02-10-2009, 08:53 PM
Anyone know how sem paint would work. It has flex in the paint and the primer has flex too. I priced it all today it would all come to $144 Canadian. I will post how it turns out when i finally do it.
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ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Body > Paint frame with spray on bed-liner??
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View Full Version : Paint frame with spray on bed-liner??
Hazzard400
12-12-2005, 07:57 PM
Anyone ever use spray on bed-liner to paint anything on their quad? My buddy claims itll work fine, but i cant find out if its heat resistent or anything.
I'm thinking of painting my frame with it if itll work.
d kelley
12-12-2005, 08:23 PM
The spray on bed liner material is super on bike parts. I checked out a Harley D. when my truck was being done at Line X and I couldnt believe how good it looked. The guy having it done said he was sick of gas ruining his paint and started with his tank and went from there I guess. It was just really neat and so different from everything else I have seen.
Hazzard400
12-16-2005, 08:12 PM
Cool, i think i'm goin to get started on it ove the holiday break. I'm lookin for orange plastics too if anyones sellin.
trx400exxracer
12-16-2005, 08:14 PM
I think it is a real good idea it will make it look rugged and tuff
coolex
12-16-2005, 09:00 PM
dont forget to plug all the parts were u dont want it sprayed cuz u wont be able to take it off nearly as easy as paint its tuff and thick
sounds like a good idea though
theTman
12-16-2005, 09:25 PM
and its gonna be a paint gettin a arms and such to line up becuase its thick so your going to have to scrape it off.
..and if you ever go to take it off, well, have fun with that
dirt308
12-16-2005, 09:37 PM
There was a guy on z400central that painted his plastics with bed liner also. It looked pretty cool.
dirt308
12-17-2005, 11:29 AM
I found the picture of it, I think his top front a arms also might be painted with it.
Honda TRX250ex
12-17-2005, 01:24 PM
Originally posted by dirt308
I found the picture of it, I think his top front a arms also might be painted with it.
IMO thats pretty fugly
dirt308
12-17-2005, 04:25 PM
either way you can't scratch it or brake it so doing a frame with it would be a good idea if it didn't make anything bind.
rollie
12-17-2005, 04:28 PM
Josh creamer did it a few years back on his YFZ, it looks good
trx400exxracer
12-17-2005, 09:13 PM
I would go for it
TheFontMaster
12-17-2005, 10:11 PM
The only problem I have heard of with the spray on bed linner is that since it's so thick that it would hide any cracks that you get in the frame, and you wouldn't know about them to fix them untill something breaks.
Butters
12-18-2005, 12:45 AM
yeah i think doing the frame is a good idea. its tuff and durable and that is exactly what you need for a frame.
Hazzard400
01-13-2006, 11:51 PM
Well i got it finished over break and it did turn out pretty well, no binding around the a-arms or anything. If i ever get ahold of a digital camera i'll post some pics.
Bradkx
01-14-2006, 02:38 PM
Hazzard400 can you tell me what product you decided to go with? do you do anything special in regards to prep work?
I want to do this to my lt250r but only want to do it once.
- Brad
Bradkx
02-20-2006, 01:56 PM
Can anyone give me any input? I am ready to do this but would like some helpful hints/suggestions before I do.
Thanks,
-Brad
prepracing
02-20-2006, 08:57 PM
have a friend that works at a Rhino Linings shop and he Rhino lined his a-arms and swingarm.
...looked pretty good and definitly is durable, all he did was scuff them then spray them. I'm sure the spray can stuff would work fine to, would probably look like the new texture or wrinkle powdercoat that people are doing on a-arms
skott1576
09-19-2006, 07:32 PM
im thinkin about doing this how much did it cost you and did you ever get ahold of a digital camera?
81 clark racing
09-29-2006, 07:40 PM
skott let me no when you do your frame i want to do my aarms. rember i have a heated basement so winter time working will be niice in the basement.
CannondaleRider
09-30-2006, 12:44 AM
Apparently weight isn't a factor to some people?
Whether its super durable or not, I don't want that much weight added to my bike.
It's not going to protect from HARD impacts, just scuffs and scratches. I'd rather take my bike down to nothing and powercoat it every year then to add that much weight.
81 clark racing
09-30-2006, 06:14 AM
Originally posted by CannondaleRider
Apparently weight isn't a factor to some people?
Whether its super durable or not, I don't want that much weight added to my bike.
It's not going to protect from HARD impacts, just scuffs and scratches. I'd rather take my bike down to nothing and powercoat it every year then to add that much weight.
good point never though of that
trailrider894
11-17-2010, 11:56 AM
Originally posted by CannondaleRider
Apparently weight isn't a factor to some people?
Whether its super durable or not, I don't want that much weight added to my bike.
It's not going to protect from HARD impacts, just scuffs and scratches. I'd rather take my bike down to nothing and powercoat it every year then to add that much weight.
but really how much weight will it really add??? nothing some of the big guys out there can't compensate with by holding off from the big macs.
chronicsmoke
11-19-2010, 02:42 PM
Sounds like I might have to try this on the ol 426ex.. I'm in the works of getting my 450r frame powdered mirror plack/ rockstar yellow :chinese:
spearman_929
12-16-2010, 12:20 AM
i sprayed my front bumper and nerfs with it and it was pretty sweet cuz you can spray black reg paint over it to make it shine. and its easy to touch up, but it will scrach off if ya hit stuff.
trailrider894
12-16-2010, 08:51 AM
Originally posted by spearman_929
i sprayed my front bumper and nerfs with it and it was pretty sweet cuz you can spray black reg paint over it to make it shine. and its easy to touch up, but it will scrach off if ya hit stuff.
Did you prep good though?
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There is a saying in Russia: “To love is like a queen, to lose is like a million”.
Russians are not accustomed to half-measures, and if we have a desire to treat ourselves to something like that, then by all means the best. Having tested the Polaris Sportsman Touring XP 1000 ATV, we can definitely say that this “American” will suit the wide Russian soul as well as possible.
For avid hunters and fishermen, an ATV is by no means a toy, but a means of transportation. And they approach the choice of transport fundamentally, which is called taking into account their needs. For miners, it is extremely important that the all-terrain vehicle be reliable, not whimsical in operation, have all kinds of luggage racks and compartments for transporting various things, and, of course, that it be a two-seater. In a special favor among those who like to wander with a gun are powerful ATVs. It is understandable why. If you take a 500 cc machine now, ride it for a month or two, and you will understand that this volume is catastrophically small (especially when driving together) and the soul asks for something more.
As a result, you will sell the unfortunate "five hundred" for nothing and - one goblin! — buy the most powerful ATV.
Of course, if you're hiring an ATV solely for picking mushrooms and berries three times a year, there's no point in chasing power figures. However, for the needs of seasoned hunters, when you need to climb into such a jungle where the tank will disappear without a trace, and then drag a large trophy in the form of a wild boar or elk from there, then horsepower plays a key role. Polaris Sportsman Touring XP 1000 is equipped with a two-cylinder power plant with a capacity of 88 "horses". With a weight of 403 kilos, this two-seater ATV has enough power for the eyes. Even when you fully loaded the luggage racks and put a well-fed passenger behind you, these circumstances do not affect the acceleration dynamics at all.
How “litre” is the jump from the spot? Suffice it to say that this is the most powerful model in Polaris' ATV lineup.
You step on the gas and it feels like the acceleration will never end. At the same time, the setting of the variator allows you not to break the wheel slip when starting off. For example, when during the test we drove into a swamp and stopped, such a gentle setting of the variator allowed us to continue moving through the mess without “burrowing”.
As we have said, the Touring XP 1000 is a thoroughbred two-seater. When driving in tandem, neither the helmsman nor the passenger feel any inferiority in ergonomics. There is more than enough space for both. Although in fairness it should be noted that the passenger rides with great comfort, because he sits on a real soft throne with an additional shock absorption system. By the way, despite the fact that the hero of our story is a comfortable two-seater ATV, you cannot call him a clumsy limousine. Polaris has outstanding maneuverability, in the literal sense, it can spin like a snake between a palisade of growing birch trees.
A powerful engine requires the technique to strengthen all adjacent components. In particular, in order for the liter Sportsman Touring XP to endure all the hardships of Russian off-road with dignity, the manufacturer strengthened the front drives by 50% (in everyday life we call this part CV joints), added strength to gearboxes and gearboxes, and increased the performance of the brake system. Well, in order to easily “breathe” the motor off-road, I increased the air filter.
In terms of aesthetics, no matter how strange this phrase may sound, the “thousander” is also strengthened. So that contact with bushes and tree branches does not spoil the plastic, turning it into a kind of old cast-iron, deeply scratched frying pan in a couple of trips, the manufacturer applied a new painting technology. Automotive paintwork is nine times more scratch resistant than body-painted plastic. In general, even after years of merciless exploitation, your Touring XP 1000 will look like candy.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to reveal all the features of an off-road vehicle in a short test. Nevertheless, after a few hours of driving on hard off-road, this liter "tourist" left the most positive impressions about himself. One feels the huge potential of the motor, excellent handling, excellent cross-country ability and unsurpassed comfort. And at the price of the Polaris Sportsman Touring XP 1000, perhaps, it will give odds to any classmate.
ATV catalog
At the recent Victory Parade, Russia demonstrated its military potential, including military equipment. The best examples of modern tanks, anti-aircraft systems, self-propelled artillery mounts rolled along the cobblestones of Red Square.
It is obvious that only the most advanced samples from a technical point of view are sent to parades, and even more so to mass production.
But what happens to less successful designs? They go to the dustbin of history, but if you search well there, you can find very interesting options.
So, the most unusual military transport and its fate.
Today, few people have heard of Frederick Simms, because his most famous invention was the four-wheeled bicycle armed with a machine gun, which turned into an object of jokes. But 120 years ago, the ideas of the inventor did not seem funny. Machine guns had only just begun to enter service with some armies, and cars were a rare sight. More than a decade away from the "tank", Simms pioneered the blending of new mobility and fire technologies.
Of course, today the image of Mr. Simms in a bowler hat on this unit looks comical, but in the context of the late XIX century. everything was perceived differently. The engineer took Maxim's new machine gun and made it mobile on a cheap and simple 4-wheeled ATV, equipping the design with a small bulletproof shield.
It's that simple. Transport, despite the presence of pedals, was also equipped with a small 1.5 liter gasoline engine. with., which set the rear wheels in motion. An additional magazine for 1000 rounds was attached to the hull.
A working sample was demonstrated to the public in 1899, but things didn’t go any further - this device had too many disadvantages. The fate of the sample itself is unknown, but, most likely, the machine gun was removed, the ATV was sold, and Simms continued to work on other military transport projects.
This strange design was developed by Russian engineer Lebedenko at 1914 when the First World War began. The "tank" did not have tracks, but it had three wheels, two of which were on the spokes, amounting to 9 meters in diameter! The upper tower, where the gun was located, reached almost 8 meters, the body itself, 12 meters wide, was equipped with two more guns.
The huge wheels were powered by a 250 hp Sunbeam engine.
With. And they were designed to overcome serious obstacles. However, due to weight miscalculations, the rear wheel was constantly stuck in viscous soil and ditches, and the front traction was not enough to pull the entire body out. The tests of the Tsar Tank were a complete failure, because it was obvious to everyone that at the front this “colossus” would be of little use. Its exceptional sluggishness and vulnerability also became a huge minus: any hit in the spokes would paralyze the tank.
This led to the failure of the tests, which took place in August 1915, 60 km from Moscow, where the ridiculous giant remained until 1923, until it was finally dismantled for scrap. The project became known among industrial design professionals as the great engineering fiasco.
German super-heavy artillery 80 cm gun was developed at the end of 1930s to break through the Maginot Line in France - the strongest fortifications that existed at that time.
But the colossus was not ready for the start of hostilities, so the Wehrmacht troops had to bypass the French fortifications through Belgium. The French quickly surrendered, and the need to bomb them with seven tons of shells disappeared. Later, Dora was used during the battle for Sevastopol.
The fully assembled Dora (the second name of the gun is “Schwerer Gustav”) weighed almost 1350 tons and could fire shells weighing 7 tons at a distance of 47 km! Impressive, right? But why did we put it on our list? Yes, because using a supergun was extremely costly in terms of resources.
The giant was transported by rail, that is, in order to bring it to its destination, it was necessary to lay railroad tracks and use 60 railway trains! It took up to 6 weeks to equip a firing position alone and a space 4.5 km long. It took about 3 days to assemble the gun itself, and this is not surprising: a thirty-meter barrel was mounted on a carriage as high as a three-story house!
The
Dora was the largest caliber rifle ever used in combat.
But the Second World gun was not destined to survive: in 1945, the outcome of the war was obvious, and the Nazis decided to destroy their own offspring so that Dora would not fall into the hands of the Soviet troops.
The Second World War was a time when the best engineers, designers and technologists on both sides made every effort to ensure that their countries had an advantage at the front. But sometimes, as a result of their efforts, something was obtained that was not only ridiculous in appearance, but also had an indefinite functionality. For example, a German round tank. The complete lack of records of this device limits historians to the realm of conjecture.
A 25 horsepower engine propelled this bizarre vehicle, reaching up to 8 km/h. What, pray tell, was this car intended for? Most likely for reconnaissance. One machine gun and five millimeters of armor, of course, could not make a splash on the fields of World War II, so this option seems to work, however, the low speed of the device is embarrassing.
There is a version that Kugelpanzer was conceived as a transport for suicide bombers, on which it was necessary to ram enemy ranks (this, we recall, at a speed of 8 km / h). We know for sure that the main Nazi allies, the Japanese, created a number of special vehicles for kamikaze, such as the Kaiten manned torpedo, the Ohka powered flying bomb, and the Shinyo motor boats. But the Germans usually didn’t do such things and just didn’t expend their manpower, and, you see, the tank-ball could hardly inflict a serious lesson on the enemy.
These matchbox-like Beaverette cars were built for use by the British Army during World War II. After the Wehrmacht troops defeated the French in 1940, the Nazi threat to Britain became quite tangible, so the need for military transport increased dramatically.
The first version of the machine was built in 1940 by the Standard Motor Company at the suggestion of Lord Beaverbrook, at that time the Minister of Aircraft Manufacturing (hence the name Beaverette).
The essence of the idea can be described in one sentence: a riveted armored body was attached to the chassis of an ordinary car. The 11mm steel was backed up with 3" thick oak planks. The case was open at the top and back. Armament consisted of a Bren light machine gun that could be fired through a gap in the armor.
Subsequent versions received protection from all sides, as well as a closed turret with a Bren MG machine gun or an open turret with two Vickers machine guns. They were produced until 1942, when it was decided to stop its production. The car had a number of disadvantages: very poor visibility, low speed, poor maneuverability and difficulty in driving.
The importance of tanks for the army cannot be overestimated, so opponents always strive to disable as many enemy tanks as possible. But to use a scooter for this ... A very dubious idea, and the French thought of it. It was supposed to drop these scooters from aircraft, and on the ground already put them on alert and storm the tank ranks.
Yes, the only problem is that it is far from possible to drive freely everywhere on such a “baby”, so the driver would often have to carry this misunderstanding on himself, especially in off-road conditions.
In total, several hundred of these scooters were produced, which were equipped with an M20 recoilless rifle capable of penetrating armor up to 10 cm. The French used them during the conflicts in Algeria and Indochina, when the local population wished to be freed from colonial oppression. But very soon scooters began to be used not as a weapon, but as a transport for couriers.
Finally, we present to your attention a miracle of Soviet engineering - a flying tank designed by engineer O.K. Antonov based on the T-60 light tank. In fact, this is a hybrid of a tank and a glider, which was originally supposed to be used to help partisans: deliver a combat vehicle to difficult places.
The very practice of delivering heavy vehicles by air was widespread: tanks were dropped from aircraft from a low altitude in neutral gear.
