ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Powertrain > engine case polishing
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11-25-2001, 01:00 PM
hey everyone. i would like some tips on how to polish the engine cases on my 250r. what is the fastest, good looking, easiest way to polish my engine cases?
Foxrage
11-25-2001, 02:17 PM
Take em off and senf em to a chromer that is the fastest and the easiest. It isnt so easy on your wallet though.
kabd69667
11-25-2001, 02:58 PM
Get a can of pro stripper at like walmart and put it on your cases and then take some steel wool and rub it off after it has taken the paint, i guess thats what i'll call it, off. Then get some mothers polish and maybe a buffer, thats what i used and polisher her up
400exdad
11-25-2001, 04:19 PM
:D I've been waiting for someone to ask this! So I can show mine off!! Check the pic!
It was a lot of work! However, it does look good. Here is how you do it.
1. Remove the side cases and any other aluminum parts you want to polish.
2. If they are painted, strip them. Not with that sweet smelling orange stuff, but with the "aircraft stripper". It works. Some of the parts will take several coats. Use steel wool or scotchbrite pads to remove any paint residue.
3. I started with some 180 grit for the rough cast parts, sometimes even 120. This was slow since it was dry paper.
4. Move your way up the scale all the way to 1200 grit. Something like this: 180, 240, 320 or 400, 600, 800 and/or 1200. Wet sanding speeds things up. It takes time and you need to completely remove all of the visible sanding scratches left by the previous grit sand paper.
5. For the hard to reach places, use small pieces of wood to hold the sandpaper with or you can use a dremel with a hard buff and some polishing rouge. (Sears sales polishing kits with various rouges. I think Harbor Freight has them too.
Be carefull with the small buffs. They wear through to a metal rod (that scratches). Also, take it light with the small buffs as you can "burn" the surface of the metal.
6. Finally, you can use Mothers polish to finish up with by hand or if you have a big grinder and a loose buffing wheel you can use more rouge to help polish and "blend" all the areas together. For me, this was the best reward! It was really shiny after this step.
Here is what I polished: side covers and attachments, front motor mounts, rear caliper, new prm back bumper and skid plates (tops).
Here is what I plated: brake lever, shifter, pipe guard, and various small parts. I bought the chromed Duncan Racing front bumper. What I wanted plated was the rear sub frame but it was too much $$$ due to the detailing involved.
I had my head pipe ceramic coated.
Now it's time for MORE POWER!
11-25-2001, 04:28 PM
strip the paint off the cases,smooth them with sand paper,buy a dremel drill and lots of the felt polishing wheels,buy some rubbing compound,use the dremel the polish with the felt wheels and rubbing compound and repeat till it looks like chrome
Taco
11-25-2001, 04:51 PM
do you have any close up pics of your engine 400exdad?
James70214
11-25-2001, 05:26 PM
Hey 400exdad did you polish the oil tank? I am thinking about doing that.
How many hours did it take you to polish the cases?
400exdad
11-25-2001, 08:17 PM
When I bought my 400 I knew I ws going to keep it for a long time and I wanted it to look different than the rest of the 400's out there. I thought I would like the power it had from the factory. So, I polished and chromed. When we went to Little Sahara, I felt it was lacking. Plus, when riding my friends warmed up and changed up Raptor, I think the 400 needs more. So, more power is the next step.
I've got probably 10 hrs in polishing the side cases, small covers and front lower motor mounts. When you see the pics, you'll see that I also chomed the pegs and the chain guard. The guard looks great, but the pegs are slippery when wet. I've got another pair and plan to put some extensions on those and maybe get those chromed.
I've attached some close ups. They are a little bit blurry since they are a smaller part of a bigger pic. I have never taken any just engine shots.
I haven't polished my oil tank yet. I thought it looked like it had been coated with a molten aluminum spray... remember when they use to coat headers with aluma-coat? So, I was afraid to try to take it off. Steve Abbott I think polished his and it looked great. He may have chromed it. If you are not sure who he is, he's buds with Wes Miller of Huevos Grandes fame. Steves shop is in Vegas. If anyone of you has polished your tank, let me know how it went.
400exJOE
11-25-2001, 08:27 PM
has anyone polished their factory rims??? I saw it on a polaris scrambler and it looked real good. I have some scratches in mine and was wondering if that would get rid of them in addition to shining them up.
400exdad
11-25-2001, 08:32 PM
400exjoe, you probably know this, but the factory wheels are clear coated and if you look close, they are really not that smooth. It would take more work than I did on my side cases to get them shiny... I think.
If you really want shiny, shiny rims I would probably get aftermarket. I know they're not as strong, but they do look good. Personally, I like the rolled bead and am not willing to give that up or pay extra for that on aftermarkets.
Scott
11-26-2001, 11:37 AM
A friend used Nev-R-dull on his factory rims and they polished up very nicely. Took about 30mins total. The rims were fairly new (less than a year) so I don't know if they had clearcoat on them or not. I was planning on trying the same thing this winter, so we'll see how it goes.
Tommy 17
11-26-2001, 12:13 PM
i started to polish stuff and i tried my trottle cover and i ruined it now i gotta pay 25.00$ for a new one i am so stupid...
11-26-2001, 12:30 PM
I did my throttle cover but only took of the black paint were it says honda,,not fancy but looks cool.
JhallettEX
11-28-2001, 08:51 PM
OK I think that I am going to try and do this over the next few weeks.
First where do I get this "aircraft stripper"? And has anyone tried this on there sub-frame yet?
Thanks
400exdad
11-28-2001, 10:47 PM
You can get the aircraft stripper from Auto Zone, maybe you have those in your area. I truly wanted to have my subframe chromed but it was too expensive. Mainly due to the labor to remove the paint, bead blast and polish the metal before chroming. The chromer did offer to chrome it for $100 if I did the cleaning and polishing. I was talked out of it by a friend who said I would most likely bend it anyway. So I bought a bumper. The subframe is steel not aluminum. So if you strip it, it will rust. I essentially ended up chroming what I wanted shiny that was made of steel and polished everything else.
I took my time and did most of my sanding at the kitchen sink area. Stripped it outside of course. Got a couple of bath towels, put them on the counter next to the sink to hold the parts and absorb the water dripping from the sandpaper.
One side of the sink had lightly soapy water to clean the paper with. It just took some time, but it does catch some looks.
Good Luck
11-29-2001, 11:49 AM
You guys are all nuts! I guess maybe it's because I'm a trail rider at heart. I don't understand those idiots who drive 150 miles with their bike in the back of their pickup trucks to a pit. Then unload it and ride around, never going more than 5 minutes from their parking spot. I love a clean machine as much as the next guy but deliberately stripping the surfaces that Honda engineers deliberately spent time and money protecting seems well, not enlightened. I own a Harley that has so much chrome on it that the only painted parts left are the frame and the sheetmetal, but this is not an efficient setup for a performance machine. Chrome plated parts do not transfer heat well and are heavy not to mention the fact that chrome and aluminum do not get along chemically. Take care of the finishes and the exposed metal with gentle cleaners and WD-40 and you'll have a beautiful machine for years to come.
Scott
11-29-2001, 12:00 PM
I agree with some of what you're saying Bane, but they look cool.
Mine's not polished, actually right now it's in the garage covered in mud. But shiny plastic, polished aluminum and stainless steel looks GOOD when it's cleaned up. I just don't have the time or the patience to do it to mine.
400exdad
11-29-2001, 01:41 PM
To bane:
To each his own but to call somebody a queer is a little extreme. I guess I could say something and follow it up with a "Nah, Nah, Nah, Nah, Nah" but I won't. For your information, and if you read my other posts, I do ride, mainly in the woods. And my quad is muddy right now too. However, that pic was taken at Little Sahara... :D
11-29-2001, 02:08 PM
This looks like a stong candidate for the flames section.:devil
Scott
11-29-2001, 02:48 PM
400exdad
You accomplished what you went for with your quad. It looks good and gets attention. Made me start thinking 'what if' about mine. What if I polished that... ect. And a lot of the dune riders seem to really go for looks, and it works. Not too much dune riding in Ohio... Sooner or later some mag will end up with a show and shine contest. I won't be in it, but I'll check out the rides that are.
:cool:
redrider ex
11-29-2001, 03:49 PM
400ex21 if you havent bought a new cover yet i have several
covers that i have made i work with aluminum at work and i make parts all the time the trottle covers are polished to a mirror finish
and some of them i have put on the milling machine and milled the letter (H) in the surface for a custom look i will sell you one for $10 dollers i allso have break resevore covers pollished ,dog bone
handle bar clamps and i just made me and my buddy a aluminum
head pipe guard mine has a big (H) on it and his say TRX 400 EX
across it. let me know and i will send you one if you want it.:huh
400exdad
11-29-2001, 05:48 PM
Thanks Scott. I realize that most folks think that if it's polished, its not ridden. I'm not sure what it will look like in a year. One of the reasons I did it was because I knew I was going to keep it for ALONG time. Hopefully in a year the rocks, sticks, trees, logs, and other debris won't have destroyed it!:)
Sorry about the comments Rico, but I just didn't understand why the guy said the "q" word.
Tommy 17
11-29-2001, 06:06 PM
Originally posted by redrider ex
400ex21 if you havent bought a new cover yet i have several
covers that i have made i work with aluminum at work and i make parts all the time the trottle covers are polished to a mirror finish
and some of them i have put on the milling machine and milled the letter (H) in the surface for a custom look i will sell you one for $10 dollers i allso have break resevore covers pollished ,dog bone
handle bar clamps and i just made me and my buddy a aluminum
head pipe guard mine has a big (H) on it and his say TRX 400 EX
across it. let me know and i will send you one if you want it.:huh
dude thats alot for tryin to save me money... i already got one though my friend wrecked and he cracked the thumb trottle case and when he bought a new one they gave him a cover too she he had he old one he gave it to me its scratched bad but i don't care.
crday98
11-30-2001, 12:41 AM
Originally posted by bane
You guys are all nuts! I guess maybe it's because I'm a trail rider at heart. I don't understand those idiots who drive 150 miles with their bike in the back of their pickup trucks to a pit. Then unload it and ride around, never going more than 5 minutes from their parking spot. I love a clean machine as much as the next guy but deliberately stripping the surfaces that Honda engineers deliberately spent time and money protecting seems well, not enlightened. I own a Harley that has so much chrome on it that the only painted parts left are the frame and the sheetmetal, but this is not an efficient setup for a performance machine. Chrome plated parts do not transfer heat well and are heavy not to mention the fact that chrome and aluminum do not get along chemically. Take care of the finishes and the exposed metal with gentle cleaners and WD-40 and you'll have a beautiful machine for years to come.
you are probably not even old enough to ride a Harley by the comments you made:rolleyes: i ride mine like it was stolen in the trails,coal dirt,mud,snow,etc. and i have plenty polished on my quad that is sitting in my garage covered in mud.i am not afraid to get it dirty,i love to get it dirty but when i have her all cleaned up i want her to look extra good.i ,like many take pride in what they have and how it looks.does that make me queer?i think not!every time my friends see my quad all cleaned up they shoot compliments left and right,they all own 400ex's and ride with me every time i ride but still compiment me every time they see it.i even had some people tell me i am nuts for getting it as dirty as i do because it looks so good all shined up but that is not what its main purpose is. i have fun riding it and fun cleaning and polishing it.if that makes me queer,i guess i'll have to look for a" gay rights"club somewhere:D.as far as him chroming stuff,if you read his post,he only had steel parts chromed and there are no steel parts on the motor to be worry about heat escaping or tranfering:p i do agree with you about having a nice quad and it being a waste but think a little before you call us "polishing homosexuals".i didn't say the "Q"word,i already pushed it enough in this post:D sorry guys:(
400exdad
11-30-2001, 06:20 AM
I couldn't have said it better crday98. I posted earlier and said a lot more than I should have. Rico said this post was about to go down in flames so I edited it.
I admit that I don't ride as fast or as hard as others but I do like to ride and I do go faster than most 37 y.o. with kids. A fractured tibia at the knee joint made me "re-think" things! Hence a little more time fixing up the quad and less racing.
LOOK GOOD AND RIDE HARD!
Scott
11-30-2001, 07:17 AM
redrider ex
I think I'd be interested in the polished aluminum brake resi cover. Don't have the thumb throttle anymore, so the cover wouldn't do me any good, but I just added a polished SS brake cylinder cover for the foot brake so your polished aluminum cover would make it match. Email me and we can work out the details.
Thanks!
redrider ex
11-30-2001, 08:07 AM
I have plain covers polished or some with the (H) milled in the top or some with grooves going across the top and there all polished
to a mirror finish , they want any where from $15to$20 for one in the adds in dirtwheeles ill take $10 for mine . I forgot I allso have made the nob that turns on the gas out of polished alluminum they sell for $37 in the mag and on ebay ill take $20 for them.
You can email me at [email protected] got to go take kids to school be bake later. :huh
12-05-2001, 09:12 AM
OK, I think all the 'phobes responses to my remark are wasting a little too much space here so I would like to apologize for my remark. I am simply expressing my personal view on quad tweaking. For me if it's $200 for a polished this and that or $200 for another 1.5 horsepower, I'm measuring my pennies in roost! I too have a few cosmetic items, so yes I understand where you're all coming from. I even catch flack from my riding group for my Pro-Design billet gas cap. I love the forum so keep yackin', and for the one who questioned my age and my harley; I ride a 1997 FXSTC with a list custom pieces that would boggle the mind, and I'm 30 going on 12.;)
Scott
12-05-2001, 11:31 AM
Bane:
I envy you. I'm also 30 going on 12, but with less toys in the toybox. I wouldn't mind going out in the garage every morning and seeing a soft tail. I kinda prefer the dyna wide glide, but I wouldn't turn a soft tail down.
crday98
12-05-2001, 12:21 PM
Originally posted by bane
for the one who questioned my age and my harley; I ride a 1997 FXSTC with a list custom pieces that would boggle the mind, and I'm 30 going on 12.;)
hey,thats alright;)i only made that statement to point out how immature your comment about us being polishing Q's when you have no clue of who we are or how we ride.:)
Red Rooster
12-05-2001, 01:36 PM
Could i polish my stock gas cap?
400exdad
12-05-2001, 05:46 PM
Thanks Bane. If everyone was the same in this little world of ours, it would be mighty boring place!:D
As far as polishing the stock gas cap, I would say no Red Rooster 300. The stock cap is metal on a 300 and would rust pretty quickly. I would say if you want a pretty gas cap, you'll have to buy an aftermarket cap like Bane did. I am (most of the time) too cheap to buy aftermarket stuff. :D
Of course, looking back at what I actually did spend in chrome, I could have almost 440'd it!! For now, I am going to high comp piston and cam it.
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ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Honda TRX 400EX & 400X ATV Info > Engine Polishing??
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View Full Version : Engine Polishing??
trailrider894
01-04-2011, 11:17 PM
Hey guys, i am looking for some input on this... I don't wanna paint because i was told not to, and i heard that polishing is better. Besides it would look pretty sweet. Is this a good idea?? I would polish the case, head, valve cover, and the side cases. Is this gonna be worth it??? How should i go about doing this myself?
Thumpin440ex
01-04-2011, 11:29 PM
I polished mine. It is a PITA, but worth it in the end. I also polished all the factor levers, they were much easier due to the fact they did not have paint on them.. What ever you do do not use a wire wheel, as it will scar the aluminum, will be a **** ton of work to get it out( ALOT of sanding) I used 1500 grit to sand cases, then went over them with fine steel wool. Then started to buff them using a mild cut rouge.. It takes a while and if you do not have the right things to buff it, it will be a royal pita.. Just take your time. If you want to do the valve cover, do it the same way. I do not think it is needed, as you do not hardly see it, it gets hot hot. It will dull the finish fast.. BTW you do have to keep after it, polish it every now and again..
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/mangler0075/400ex%20build/004-2.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/mangler0075/400ex%20build/007-1.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/mangler0075/400ex%20build/003-1.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/mangler0075/400ex%20build/007.jpg
John
trailrider894
01-04-2011, 11:32 PM
How long will it be before it will need polished again?
Thumpin440ex
01-04-2011, 11:40 PM
I usually polish them about 2 times a month. But just with good aluminum polish. You do not have to go through all that again LOL..
John
trailrider894
01-04-2011, 11:43 PM
Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
I usually polish them about 2 times a month. But just with good aluminum polish. You do not have to go through all that again LOL..
John
did the head and cases look that to begin with? or?
Thumpin440ex
01-05-2011, 12:01 AM
All that I had my guy do when he had the engine was sand blast the head and jug. It will be almost impossible to get inside the fins on the jug sand and to polish. Now if you had the engine off the bike you could grind smooth and sand them buff the fin edges. But IMO it is such a small area you prob would not be able to even tell they were polished..
John
trailrider894
01-05-2011, 12:03 AM
Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
All that I had my guy do when he had the engine was sand blast the head and jug. It will be almost impossible to get inside the fins on the jug sand and to polish. Now if you had the engine off the bike you could grind smooth and sand them buff the fin edges. But IMO it is such a small area you prob would not be able to even tell they were polished..
John
I am rebuilding so the engine is on an engine stand.
Thumpin440ex
01-05-2011, 12:16 AM
Well knock your self out LOL. You will have more time in doing that jug then you will have rebuilding the entire engine. I am not being a smart ***. I have polished quite a bit of metal in my day..You will have to knock all the ruffness of then sand then smooth then buff. If you decide to please post pics.. Remember the more and hotter the aluminum gets the faster the finish will dull..
John
stroked 400ex
01-05-2011, 07:35 AM
so all you did was use sand paper and steel wool to polish the covers? i would like to do this but want to make sure exactly how so i dont mess it up. .. i have very strong aluminum polish so i can make it shine just want to make sure how to get that gray coat off the covers...
Thumpin440ex
01-05-2011, 11:49 AM
The initial part of getting the paint off the covers is going to be as long as getting them polished itself. You can use a good paint remover also, it makes things a lil faster, but is alot messier. No you need to sand the cases to get the paint off, then go over it again with steel to asure it is nice and smooth.. Then the buffing process starts. Use a good cut rouge, then polish them. You prob not going to get far with out the buffing rouge, as it is a cutting agent, helps to fine, shine the aluminum. To get a idea, just take the throttle cover, start on it.. It is a good way to start and if you mess it up you can get a new one cheap..
John
stroked 400ex
01-05-2011, 12:21 PM
what paint remover do you recomend? and do you know of anything that will remove cooked mud off cylinders?
01-05-2011, 01:42 PM
Originally posted by stroked 400ex
what paint remover do you recomend? and do you know of anything that will remove cooked mud off cylinders? eagle one, etching mag wheel cleaner, find it at any place that sells auto parts
nelzar13
01-05-2011, 02:24 PM
i was thinking about pulling off my covers this weekend. i know in the past i had used easy off oven cleaner to remove anodizing off aluminum before polishing it, back in my bmx days. i would imagine it would take off what ever paint is on the cover off also. il post a thread if i can actually get to it this weekend
stroked 400ex
01-05-2011, 02:43 PM
nelzar13: if you post a thread let me know i would like to check it out... id like to see how it turns out...
jcs003
01-05-2011, 03:15 PM
heres a pic. alot of time involved. always sand in one direction too. also, you may think its smooth enough to go on to the next grit and will end up having to repeat a previous grit.
i like to use oil when i wet sand. wd-40 works pretty good.
stroked 400ex
01-05-2011, 03:31 PM
looks good what is it a 400ex with a crf450 motor?
jcs003
01-05-2011, 03:41 PM
Originally posted by stroked 400ex
looks good what is it a 400ex with a crf450 motor?
thanks. that is a 400ex with a trx250r motor.
stroked 400ex
01-05-2011, 04:51 PM
haha didnt see the reed cage... i tried sandpaper and steel wool works miracles my throttle cover looks like a mirror... will buy some heavier grit tomorrow mines too fine for the removing the paint on the covers... will post pics of how it turns out should be soon my motor is practically out any ways...
bbender85
01-05-2011, 08:54 PM
I don't wanna paint because i was told not to,
why not?
i painted -and- polished. :cool:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s248/bbender85/quad/DSC05120.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s248/bbender85/quad/DSC05121.jpg
trailrider894
01-05-2011, 09:52 PM
Originally posted by bbender85
why not?
i painted -and- polished. :cool:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s248/bbender85/quad/DSC05120.jpg
http://i154. photobucket.com/albums/s248/bbender85/quad/DSC05121.jpg
I wanted to originally, but was told that i shouldn't because mud would bake on and it would be a pain to clean. I don't really care much about cleaning because my atv remains spotless all the time. Do you think painting the case and jug and polishing the side covers would be smart?
Dustin075
01-06-2011, 01:02 AM
Trailrider894, what is done to that quad!? Totally amazing in my eyes! Looks great!
jcs003
01-06-2011, 02:47 AM
what grit you start with all depends on the surface of the part you are polishing. on my 250r engine, all the casting marks an pitting had to be removed before the smoothing and removal of deeper scratching.
on the 400 cases you should be ok to start with 600 grit and go up to about 2000 grit then begin buffing with 0 the 00 steel wool. i then used aluminum polish on the 00 steel wool together. the final step was some mothers plish and their polishing ball on a drill at high speed.
trailrider894
01-06-2011, 08:52 AM
Originally posted by Dustin075
Trailrider894, what is done to that quad!? Totally amazing in my eyes! Looks great!
You talking about my red EX? Because the silver one early in this post isn't mine.
I decide that i am painting the head, cylinder, and case, then polishing the side cases and all the cover are getting red or polished. This thread is extremely useful for info!!!
Thumpin440ex
01-06-2011, 11:47 PM
Originally posted by trailrider894
You talking about my red EX? Because the silver one early in this post isn't mine.
I decide that i am painting the head, cylinder, and case, then polishing the side cases and all the cover are getting red or polished. This thread is extremely useful for info!!!
I would not paint the jug and head, but thats me. Paint holds a decent bit of heat in..
John
jcs003
01-07-2011, 01:40 AM
Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
I would not paint the jug and head, but thats me. Paint holds a decent bit of heat in..
John
not accurate. some paints will improve the efficiency of heat transfer.
Thumpin440ex
01-07-2011, 02:11 AM
Post up.. Don't keep all the secrets :D
John
Thumpin440ex
01-07-2011, 02:22 AM
You are correct. Just did a quick search.. That must have been a myth that I have been hearing coming from old guys.. Now I know. Thanks for pointing it out.. :)
John
trailrider894
01-07-2011, 10:13 AM
Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
You are correct. Just did a quick search.. That must have been a myth that I have been hearing coming from old guys.. Now I know. Thanks for pointing it out.. :)
John
I actually had the same idea as you, but i was gonna do it anyway. I searched also and found the same as you. Thanks guys!!!
stroked 400ex
01-07-2011, 04:11 PM
bought paint remover and all the sandpaper i needed took my motor out in 30 minutes today, so now im all ready for tomorrow will let you guys know how it turns out
jcs003
01-07-2011, 04:12 PM
Originally posted by stroked 400ex
bought paint remover and all the sandpaper i needed took my motor out in 30 minutes today, so now im all ready for tomorrow will let you guys know how it turns out
take pics of the progress.
jcs003
01-07-2011, 04:17 PM
heres another pic to motivate you.
stroked 400ex
01-07-2011, 04:36 PM
will do i scuffed up the cases with a wire brush because they were painted blue by the guy that had it before me but ill see if i can get most of them out...
stroked 400ex
01-07-2011, 04:39 PM
there is no way i can get mine looking like that at least i dont think i can:) ... i bought all the way from 600 grit to 2000 then a few up to 2500... my hardest part is getting that paint off the cases i didnt know the paint remover works i bought a spray can bottle remover they just came out with it i was all ways using a brush to take off paint off painted plastics and other stuff guys paint on bikes i buy...
jcs003
01-07-2011, 05:14 PM
it just takes alot of time and patience. if you try and rush to the next grit, it might effect your final results.
what i did to relax while i was doing it was; have someone to talk to. having someone to talk to kind of distracted me from the work. a few beers also helped the process.
stroked 400ex
01-07-2011, 08:23 PM
how do you know when to change grit?
jcs003
01-07-2011, 11:34 PM
Originally posted by stroked 400ex
how do you know when to change grit?
trust your own judgement.
Napalm Nate
01-08-2011, 04:32 AM
when I polished my cases I changed grit when I sanded out all of the scratches made by the previous grit
stroked 400ex
01-08-2011, 08:44 PM
well guys i finished the motor polishing it looks sweet:) im very happy that i did it... yes it took alot of time but it was well worth it so everybody do it... will post pics of motor before and after tomorrow... only cost me $20 to buy all the stuff bought paint stripper, sandpaper, wheel polish, and i bought some carb cleaner 2x2 that worked wonders on my cylinder with a brush. ..
jcs003
01-09-2011, 02:50 AM
Originally posted by stroked 400ex
well guys i finished the motor polishing it looks sweet:) im very happy that i did it... yes it took alot of time but it was well worth it so everybody do it... will post pics of motor before and after tomorrow... only cost me $20 to buy all the stuff bought paint stripper, sandpaper, wheel polish, and i bought some carb cleaner 2x2 that worked wonders on my cylinder with a brush...
that was fast. it took me days to do mine. im anxious to see the results.
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 07:18 AM
not as good looking as yours but its good enough for me
dc01
01-09-2011, 11:41 AM
I polished my inspection covers and starter cover by sand blasting them the using a da sander with 1500 grit then wet sanding with 2000 grit then using a polishing wheel with a drill and metal polish.
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:24 PM
here are some pics here is after, before will be lasthttp://i728. photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/250xandcr80002.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:24 PM
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/250xandcr80004.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:25 PM
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/250xandcr80009.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:26 PM
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/250xandcr80013.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:27 PM
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/250xandcr80010.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:34 PM
here is a pic of the clutch cover before it was polished...
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/enginepolishing005.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:35 PM
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww283/duramaxfreak94/enginepolishing014.jpg
stroked 400ex
01-09-2011, 01:36 PM
i need a good grab bar, and good oring chain any suggestions?
nelzar13
01-09-2011, 08:34 PM
looking good! looks like you got a good base going to keep polishing! ill be tearing my bike apart soon so ill be in the same boat polishing my *** off! luckily i can fit a buffing wheel on my wood lathe so that cuts down on time. just need a dremel for all the small tight parts
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Condition paintwork forms the first impression of the condition of everything motorcycle.
Do-it-yourself motorcycle polishing: standard sequence
It all starts with washing the motorcycle. Often, white spirit is used for washing, which removes bituminous stains and other contaminants. Followed by moisturizing surface and its grinding with moisture-resistant fine-grained (P2000–P2500) emery paper. This step removes the top layer of paint, scratches, abrasions and other defects. Lastly, washing motorcycle drying.
Follow these standard instructions:
Return bike original attractiveness can be repainted or (if the cracks are not are too deep, there are no centers of corrosion and paint chips) by polishing. Exists two types of paintwork polishing - protective and restoring:
The first involves applying protective compounds to painted parts (for example, wax, silicone, teflon-based), repelling moisture and dust, capable of mask small scratches;
Revitalizing or abrasive polishing removes a thin top layer of paint, leveling scratches and defects in the paintwork.
Polish you can have a bike from specialists (the cost of the service depends on the qualifications manufacturer, materials used, motorcycle model, region). Also often the owners undertake to polish the bike with their own hands. Compliance with simple rules a universal algorithm will help to perform such work efficiently.
How to polish motorbike?
Polishing engine
None secret that the surface of the domestic motorcycle engine is very far from ideal. Numerous irregularities, roughness, casting defects from molds, from which the engine case was cast are visible at a glance. Someone doesn't pay attention such trifles of attention and puts up with the existing situation, and someone corrects this factory defect, with your own hands, polishing the metal surface engine to a mirror shine ...
To make the engine became smooth, you need to stock up on a few files, needle files, emery paper, polishing paste, felt. Drill bits with felt wheels or a special polishing tool will greatly speed up the process.
Question perseverance and free time are far from idle. If someone thinks that in half a day you can do everything, then this is very far from the truth. The process itself is very long and boring.
The first thing what needs to be done is to disassemble the engine to the maximum. Drain all oil. Close or seal all openings tightly, blocking the access of chips inside engine. Ideally, you need to polish completely free of viscera engine housing connected as a single unit with the box crankcase gears, after thoroughly rinsing and drying everything.
Let's start work with files, carefully turning the largest irregularities and joints casting. The main thing in the process is not to overdo it, as you can do worse than it was. When working with sandpaper, it is advisable to use a rubber bar. We take a bar, carefully put a skin on it and three, not much pressing, slightly pressing with a hand. Move in one direction. Periodically you need to stop, wipe the treated with a dry rag surface, check the result. To speed up the process, you can use tool, but places inaccessible to the tool will still have to be brought hands, fixing sandpaper on wooden blocks.
Further emery papers from 80 to 240 make the surface homogeneous.
After that with sandpaper from 400 to 600 we bring to a smoother state. Next stage we process the surface with sandpaper from 800 to 1000. From this moment, it is desirable to treat the surface with a wet sandpaper, washing it periodically in a bucket of water. This will remove fine metal dust, which will inevitably haunt you during the whole process, and reduce sandpaper consumption.
Further you can stop with sanding and carry out the final polishing with polishing pastes from larger (No. 1) to smaller (No. 3).
To those who wants to see his reflection in the engine case and does not want to use pastes, it is necessary to continue polishing with sandpaper up to 2500. Then felt with felt to bring to a mirror finish.
Related materials:
Aluminum on a motorcycle: we polish ourselves!
Have you just bought a motorcycle and you want to polish your motorcycle engine or you want to know how it looks after polishing? Well, good news: you've come to the right place, and we'll show you how to properly polish your motorcycle engine.
Therefore, we have divided polishing into several key steps, which we will describe in detail below. We will also give you advice to make your task as easy as possible.
However, we recommend that you do not start polishing the engine right away. Indeed, it is better to get other parts, if possible, that are not afraid of anything.
In fact, polishing is not very difficult, but if you miss it, it's safe to say that you would be very sad if you missed one of the most visible parts of your motorcycle. So, let's not waste a minute and see together how to polish a motorcycle engine in just 4 steps!
However, if you're more inclined to draw your engine, you might want to take a look at our article on the subject. Here we will also detail how to successfully paint your motorcycle engine.
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The first step is cleaning. Indeed, before proceeding with polishing, it is important to remove all traces and residues that could potentially be from your side.
So, in order to properly polish a motorcycle engine, the first step is to remove the paint from the part, if any. To do this, you can entrust the stripping to a professional, and if it is a simple painting, use the stripper yourself.
Once the sanding is complete, the next step is to remove any debris that may have come out of your part to try and make the part as smooth as possible, except of course for any logos.
Ultimately, sanding is needed to do the hard work, but not enough to ensure your part is fit for the third step, which is the actual polishing.
So, in order to properly polish a motorcycle engine, you first need to somehow finish the work you just started by sanding the part with sandpaper for a few minutes.
Be careful if you have never worked with sandpaper, they are not all the same. Indeed, sandpaper has a scale depending on its abrasive ability. Therefore, you will need to make the right choice in order to polish your part.
It's best to use 400 grit to start sanding, then 600 as you go, then 800 and finally 1 until you're happy with the result.
It is important to note that when sanding with sandpaper, it is important to wet the part well. Do not soak, but always keep slightly damp.
Alright, now that we've sanded it down nicely, it's time to take a look at the key step in motorcycle engine polishing, polishing yourself! Indeed, here is your part ready to move on to this step.
To do this, you first need to purchase polishing discs that can be attached to the drill. Then coat the disc with pre-polishing wax while it spins on the drill.
Once all is well, hold the bit in place and start polishing by lightly pressing the workpiece against the disc. Then make regular circular motions to polish the product.
The key to successful polishing is not to start the drill too fast, not to dwell too much on one part of the part, and finally not to press too hard to dig into the part. Moreover, taking this helping hand, we advise you to practice first.
Ok, now that your part is polished and you are almost finished polishing the motorcycle engine, there is only one step left - polishing, which will allow your part to shine brightly.
