Changing the tire on your ATV or side by side is a pretty straight forward process. There are some specialty tools that can make the job easier, but you can also accomplish a tire change on your own with some cool little tricks.
The hardest part about mounting a tire is getting the old tire off the rim and the new tires on. There’s a couple ways to go about this and some tips to make your life easier. Balancing the ATV tire is really only necessary if you’ll be getting up to speeds over 45 – 50 mph.
Here’s the steps you’ll use to remove the old tire and mount the new tire, don’t worry I’ll go into more detail on how to do each of these step by step.
Always start with safety when performing maintenance on your machine. It’s best practice to wear gloves and eye protection when working on your quad.
First off, get the wheel off the quad and deflate the tire. It’s easier is loosen the lugs a little bit before you jack the quad up. Loosen and remove the lugs in a criss-cross pattern, the same way you would install them. Once you have the wheel off the ATV it’s time to deflate the tire for removal.
To deflate the tire, remove the cap and release all the air in the tire. Most tire pressure gauges will have a little notch on one side, that you can use to push in on the valve stem to release the air in the tire.
Or you could always use a screw driver or punch tool, basically you just need to push down on the valve stem to release the air somehow. Once all the air is released from the tire, you can use a valve remover tool to get the valve cores out.
Here is a link to a Tire Valve Stem Tool Remover & Installation Kit on Amazon.
This kit has everything you need to deal with the valve cores of the tires. I highly recommend getting a tool like this if you ever plan on doing any type of maintenance to your tires.
You can try to remove the cores yourself with a wrench or something similar, but that option usually leads to damaging the valve cores beyond reuse. In fact, I’ve never seen this done successfully without a valve stem removal tool.
Once the tire has been deflated, it’s time to break the bead seal. This is sometimes the most difficult part of the entire process because the bead is set into the rim a lot more firmly on off-road tires than it is on car tires.
And to top it off, a lot of times there is some sort of bead sealer on the bead to keep the tire from popping off.
If you plan on changing a lot of tires, I suggest looking into getting a tire changer tool. This PowerLift Manual Tire Changer Base on Amazon is only about 55 bucks and makes this step so much easier.
If you don’t want to spend the money, that’s ok, this can be done with basic garage tools as well.
A popular option to break the bead is to put the tire on a piece of plywood, or something so the tire doesn’t dig into the dirt.
Then place a jack on the tire near the bead, then simply jack up into something heavy like a truck bumper or hitch.
Repeat this process around the tire on both sides in places where the bead is till set.
Or you could build your own homemade bead breaker with a couple 2x4s like in this picture here.
I would use a chain or something connecting to a piece of wood underneath the tire instead of a car as leverage, but that’s the fun of doing it yourself, use your imagination.
The whole goal of this step is to get the bead off the rim so you can remove the tire.
However inventive you’d like to get is up to you. I’ve seen people use a giant clamp to pop the bead off the rim before. You could use two pieces of 2×4 on each side of the tire and a ratchet strap to pull them together to press the tire off the rim.
Now that you’ve got the bead of the tire unseated from the rim, it’s time to get the whole tire off the rim. This is sometimes called peeling the tire off the rim.
You’re going to want to take extra special care to peel the tire off the short side of the rim.
You can find the short side of the rim by looking at the depth on both sides of the wheel. The short side has a shallower depth and will be the easiest side to pull the tire off on.
The best tool for this step is a set of tire spoons or a tire changing tool set, like this Fasmov Tire Iron Tire Changing Tool Set. If you don’t have one of these, not to worry, they’re pretty cheap to buy a set, or you could just use a couple pry bars or something similar instead.
I would advise against a screw driver though, the larger ones may work pretty good, but be extra careful not to damage the tire or rim. Well, I guess you can damage your old throw away tires, but you need to do this later on to put the new tires on too.
Start by pushing the tire down into the open area near the rim. Use your tire tool or pry bar to pull the tire up over the rim. It’s best to use the the tool like a lever, sticking the tool down so that just a piece is under the tire and pressing down to pop it over the rim.
Hold that piece of tire over the rim and use the tire tool piece with a lip to work your way around popping the rest of the tire over the rim. Like you see in the picture above. It’s easiest when you use all three tools in the kit because the middle tool will get freed up with each new section of tire you pop over the rim.
Eventually you’ll get to a point where you can just pull the tire off by hand. Then you’ll use one of the tire tools to simply pop the tire off the other side of the rim.
Now that you’ve got the old tire off, you’re going to want to clean the lip of the rim where new tire bead will sit. It’s important to clean this area really well to be sure you get a good fit with the new tire.
You won’t always need to use a bead sealer, but will always want to clean the lip of the rim. You will only need to use a bead sealer if you think the tire bead won’t seal well enough on the rim on it’s own.
This is usually only a concern if the tire is real beat up around the bead or if the rim is bent up and gashed to the point where the tire won’t seal on the rim.
If you can get away with not using a bead sealer, than I wouldn’t use it. It makes it harder to remove the tires next time you do a tire change anyways.
You will have to clean and lube the tire bead to help with mounting the tire on the rim. To clean it, just make sure the bead is free of debris and gunk. Usually a new tire won’t have dried up sealer or other stuff in the bead yet.
After you’ve made sure the tire bead is clean, it’s time to lube it up and put the tire on the rim. They do sell nice and fancy expensive tire lubes, but I’ve found that some soapy water works just as good.
Lube both sides of the bead, inner and outer, if you don’t, it’s going to be really hard to get the tire on the rim.
Now’s a good time to check tire direction. Most ATV and UTV tires will not be directional, but they do make tires that should only be put on a certain way. This is because the tires is designed with groves facing a certain direction to help with traction.
You could look at the side wall of the tire for an arrow, or just decide for yourself by looking at the tread which direction you want the tire to be mounted on the rim.
Now to get the tire on the rim, remember to start with the shallow side of the rim. Place the rim on the ground, on something that will keep it from sliding away from you, with the shallow side facing up. Now poke the bead part of the tire into the shallow side of the rim and press down on the tire until it pops onto the rim.
Ok, you’ve popped the tire onto the rim, now you need to get it seated and the bead lined up correctly.
You can kneel down on one section of the tire and use the tire tool or pry bar to seat the rest of the tire into place, as you can see in the picture.
Try using your knee to keep the tire from popping back up on the other end, your free hand will help with this as well. After you get to a little more than half of the tire pryed onto the rim, it will be easy to just push it the rest of the way on.
Now that the new tire is on the rim, it’s time to set the beads on both sides of the tire. If you have a small portable air compressor for airing up tires, that might not be enough to seat the beads.
You can try inflating the tire with the core out, to help you get more air in the tire more quickly to seat the beads. Then once the beads are seated, put the cores, or valve stems in and inflate the tire.
You will usually need a higher powered air compressor to seat the beads. The even make special designed Tire Seating Blaster Inflator Air Compressors made specifically with enough power to seat the bead of the tire.
That’s because a compact portable air compressor doesn’t have enough power to do it.
Another popular option you could try is to spray starter fluid into the tire and light it with a lighter. The starter fluid burns all the air out of the tire and pulls the bead into place. To legally cover myself I am going to say to never do that. But, I’ve used this method plenty of times and it works like a charm.
Then once the bead is set, put the core back in and inflate the tire like you normally would using any air compressor you have. If you plan on riding at speeds over 35 mph, it’s a good idea to balance the tires at this point.
Check out my How To Balance ATV Tires article for the step by step instructions on how to balance your tires.
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How to Mount ATV Tires
Mounting ATV Tires at Home
If you’ve been thinking about changing ATV tires or UTV tires at home, know that while it can be tricky the first few times because these tires tend to have stronger beads than on-road tires, it’s a pretty straight-forward process as long as you have the proper tools, and follow this step-by-step tutorial from the tire experts at Treadworld.
Also keep in mind that air under pressure is potentially dangerous so take any necessary precautions. Balancing your ATV tires can be difficult and is likely not necessary unless you’re racing or engaging in high-speed ATV and UTV activities.
The Tools You Will Need to Change ATV Tires
Remove the wheel from the ATV
When mounting ATV tires at home, it’s best to start with your ATV on a hard floor like a garage. Loosen the lug nuts a little to make them easier to get off, then jack up your four-wheeler so you can remove the wheel. Consider getting the bolts off using a hand tool rather than an impact wrench, which can on occasion be powerful enough to snap a bolt.
Deflate the ATV tire
Remove the cap from the valve stem and release all the air in the tire using either a valve stem core removal tool which will remove the stem and is the quickest method, or a tire pressure gauge that has a notch on the side used to push in on the valve stem or a screwdriver, which will take longer.
Break the bead on both sides of the ATV tire
This is likely the toughest part of changing an ATV or UTV tire because the bead is set to the rim a lot more firmly with off-road tires, than with on-road tires. That’s because off-road tires are asked to do things on-road tires don’t, like ride steep slopes, travel rocky terrain and land jumps. First, here are a few details. The bead retainer is a small ridge that goes all the way around on both edges of the wheel rim. It is intended to keep the tire in place so that aggressive riding won’t result in it sliding and losing the air seal. The tire bead is on the edge of each tire. Essentially, it’s a strong steel reinforced loop around both edges of the tire. Many times, a bead sealer is used on the bead to further keep it from popping off. In a nutshell, with this step, you’re getting the bead off the rim so you can remove the tire.
3 options for breaking the bead on ATV tires at home
There are essentially three ways to break the bead on an ATV tire.
Likely the easiest method is with a BeadBuster, a tool designed for the job that clamps onto the rim and forces a wedge between the rim and the tire. BeadBusters are quick, simple and offer less chance for damaging the tire than other methods. A quick look shows they currently sell for around $100 at online shops. A cheaper alternative is using another of the several available portable tire-changing tools, generally available at any hardware store or auto supply shop. Most models need to be bolted to the floor, or some other heavy object. If you go with this alternative, you’ll want to leave 3-5 PSI air in the tire to facilitate success. Finally, there is the DIY method, which involves your inventiveness. Start by putting soapy water on the bead to help it slide. Devise the best way to get the tire in position so you’ll be able to force the tire to break free of the bead. You may want to use a 2×4 set as close to the rim as possible to push the tire edge away from the bead. Then flip the tire and do the other side.
Again, it may help to have 3-5 PSI of air left in the tire with this method.
Peeling the ATV tire off the rim
You’ll want to use tire spoons or large screwdrivers for this step. Place one of the irons between the tire and the rim, and lift a section of the tire over the rim. Using one tool, hold that section away from the rim, and use the other tool to edge the rest of the tire over the side of the rim. Continue with this process until the full tire is from the rim, then remove the tire from the wheel rim completely.
Clean the lip rim on both sides and consider a sealer
The better you clean the lip rim on both sides, the better your new tire will fit. Wash off any dirt and debris. Use a stiff brush if necessary. Remove any rust. To get a good airtight seal, you need the surface to be smooth. If your rim shows any signs of pitting, nicks or other damage, you’ll likely want to apply a bead sealer, which is a rubber product designed to aid in bead seating.
You may want to skip the bead sealer if you don’t need it in order to make changing the tire in the future easier.
Clean and lube the tire bead on the new ATV or UTV tire
So that the rubber will slide easier, put commercial tire lube or some soapy water on the bead retainer on both sides of the wheel rim. You can also use a light coating of baby powder, but stay away from WD40 as it can deteriorate rubber.
Check to see if your ATV tire is directional
Tires can be directional or multi-directional. Directional ATV tires should be mounted in a certain way for best traction and optimal performance and safety, while multi-directional tires work in either direction. Some types of four wheeler tires are directional depending on usage, like ATV mud tires for example. Look on the tire sidewall for an arrow, which indicates the tire is directional and should be mounted with the arrow facing the direction of the forward rotation. Another way to tell is by looking at the tread.
A tire with an aggressive V-tread is likely a directional tire and should be mounted so the tip of the V hits the ground first. Directional tires can be mounted on either side.
Pop the new tire on the rim and get it seated correctly
The next step is to get the tire seated and the bead lined up correctly. Start by putting soapy water or lube onto the wheel rim. With stiffer walled tires, place the tire on the garage floor then push the wheel into position. With tires that have a less-stiff wall, placing the wheel on the floor and positioning the tire may be easier. Push straight down with both hands to slip the bead of the tire over the lip of the wheel. To get the second bead pried over the lip of the wheel, you’ll need to use your tire spoons, working your way around the tire until you have the entire bead pried over the wheel. To hold air, the tire needs to be firmly seated on the bead. At this point, be sure the tire is lubed up and begin using your higher-powered air compressor to put air in the tire.
Don’t over inflate. The maximum inflation pressure should be stamped on the sidewall of the tire. The expectation is that as the tire inflates, both beads will seat themselves, as indicated by a loud “pop”, which should happen at a fairly low air pressure, 7-8 PSI. Once that occurs, let the air out of the tire. The beads will remain seated.
You may have difficulty getting the air into the tire fast enough to get the beads seated. That’s due to the gap that still exists between tire and rim. A good way to solve that issue is to tighten a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire, pushing the tire walls out towards the lip of the wheel on each side. Stop tightening as soon as the tire touches the tip of the rim. Then the tire should hold air because the gap has been closed.
Reinstall the valve stem and inflate the tire
Use your valve stem tool to reinstall the valve stem, then inflate the tire before capping the valve stem to keep it free of debris. Now you’re ready to reinstall the tire on your ATV, having solved the problem of how to mount ATV tires at home.
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| Home » Checkers against Christmas trees: how to choose tires for an ATV? Monodrive, or, as evil tongues call them, non-drive, ATVs are often criticized for insufficient cross-country ability.
In order not to get confused in the choice of wheels, first of all you need to outline the habitat of the ATV - wheels that work well in mud are unlikely to hold well on a flat and hard road. Conversely, tires that provide excellent traction on pavement will skid helplessly in mud, sand and snow. Of course, quads rarely ride the same routes, but there will certainly be basic coverage. In mud, sand and snow, herringbone rowing, a pattern reminiscent of the tread of tractors, is best. And for hard roads, grass and forest paths, a checker is better. There are also medium options on sale that combine elements of both patterns, but, like any compromise solution, it will not give the best result under certain conditions.
However, there is another option - when driving off a hard surface into a swamp, you can put chains on the wheels, with which their potential increases many times over. It is important to remember that rear-wheel drive ATVs have tires on the front and rear axles that perform under different conditions. The drive wheels work with one vector, their task is to push the ATV forward. And the front wheels, the so-called "sloths", should hold the road well in corners and when braking. In other words, in the vast majority of cases it makes sense to put a herringbone on the rear axle and a checker on the front. This solution combines both decent cross-country ability and excellent handling. The main thing is to remember about pressure, without it even properly selected wheels will not work.
As for the dimension, when choosing it, it is better to focus on the manufacturer's data. With bigger wheels, the quad will look bigger and cooler, the ground clearance and flotation will increase, and the price will be an increased load on the engine and transmission, as well as a decrease in stability. The right tires provide excellent handling, stability and off-road confidence.
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Products: brake cleaners, rim cleaner.
Equipment: all modern tire systems are powered by compressed air: pneumatic guns for loosening wheels, a tire changer, inflation guns. Therefore, the main tool in tire fitting is a compressor. In 99% of cases, reciprocating compressors with a capacity of 400 lmin are used. These compressors require ISO VG 46 and 100 compressor oils, depending on the compressor manufacturer's recommendations. Oil change, on average, 200-250 hours when using mineral oils, that is, about once a month during the tire season.
Using synthetic oils, such as Liqui Moly LM 500, article 4076, you can increase the compressor maintenance period up to two times a year.
The air gun is an essential tool for quick wheel removal. It has a lubricator lubrication system, that is, oil is supplied along with compressed air using a special lubricator-lubricator. In small tire shops, they save money on lubricators and periodically bury the oil directly into the air gun. To lubricate air guns, use Liqui Moly Oil fur Pneumatikgerat, part number 7841.
| Fig 1 | Fig 2 | Fig 3 |
To carry out work, place the vehicle at the place where the brake is to be carried out. work and fix manually Raise the vehicle with a tire jack or scissor lift, unscrew the wheel fasteners and remove the wheel. Wash the wheel in a washing machine, dry it. Using the special tool, unscrew the valve and bleed air from the wheel.
Remove balancing weights, if self-adhesive weights are used, then remove the remaining glue from the rim with a rag using Liqui Moly Dichtungs Entferner. It is necessary to carefully inspect the tread for stones stuck in the sipes, since wheel balancing is meaningless with a dirty tread. If you plan to install the tire back after repair, then it is necessary to mark the position of the nipple for inflation on the tire using a special marker or chalk. The tire is installed in the same position in which it was removed from the rim. Install the cleaned wheel on the tire changer and tear off the sidewall of the tire from the rim with a spatula (Fig. 1). Next, center the wheel on the clamps (1) of the machine Fig. 2, (use plastic protective pads when working with light alloy wheels) and completely separate the sidewall of the tire from the hump with a roller (Fig. 3). Before removing the tire from the rim, apply Liqui Moly Reifen Montierenpaste to the parts of the tire adjacent to the rim.
It is recommended to apply the paste with a flute brush, it is not recommended to use fly brushes (Fig.
4). Pry off the sidewall of the tire with a mounting spatula, bring it up by the heel of the machine (Fig. 5) and rotate the tire until the sidewall of the tire completely goes beyond the rim. Do the same with the bottom of the tire and remove the tire from the rim (Fig. 6).
| Figure 4 | Figure 5 | Figure 6 |
| Figure 7 | Figure 8 | Figure 9 |
Before mounting a new or refurbished tire, be sure to replace the tubeless tire valve (fig. 7), clean the tire contact surface with a Reiniger und Ferdunner cleaner (fig. 8), place the rim in the wheel balancer (fig. 9) and check the runout of the rim .
To mount the tire, it is necessary to put the disk back into the clamps of the machine (Fig.
2). Before installing the tire, apply mounting paste to the sidewalls of the tire adjacent to the rim (Fig. 10) using a flute brush on both sidewalls of the tire. Put the tire on the disc using the machine's thrust pad (Fig. 5). Orient the tire according to the marks made earlier, in case of using a new tire, align the factory mark (yellow or white) with the tire valve by location. Inflate the tire, allow the sidewall to take the correct position on the hump of the rim, for which give an air pressure of 6-8 bar (when the tire is seated, a loud bang will occur). Check the tightness of the fit by using Leck Such Spray or immersion in a water bath. After checking the tightness, bring the pressure in the wheel to the nominal value and install it in the balancing machine. Center the wheel on the center hole and studs and balance. Degrease the rim with Reiniger und Ferdunner in places where self-adhesive balance weights are fitted.
| Fig 10 |
Before installing the wheel on the hub, treat the mating surface of the hub with your choice of (Fig.
Meanwhile, no ATV or buggy, even with all-wheel drive, can realize its off-road potential without good tires. At the same time, with the right tires, even rear-wheel drive vehicles will be able to drive in the most difficult conditions. 
The same applies to winter - an old set of wheels can be studded using screwed spikes or ordinary bolts with nuts. This tire will perform great on ice and hard packed snow. 
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