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I have a 98 Foreman 450 with no rear brakes. Started to take the rear assembly apart, have removed all bolts both side of the hub.
After half a day of penetrating fluid I got the brake cover off.
Now the drum is stuck and doesn't want to come off by the look at the cover this is the first time since new the brakes have been looked at.
Any suggestions on how to get the drum off the axle, is it worth making a drum brake puller or is the a clip that needs to be removed ??
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
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After messing with these and actually destroying (well actuall BASFNB did) a backing plate trying to get a stuck drum off, I think the way to go is to remove the whole rear axle assembly with the drum and backing plate still attached.
Remove left axle hub and unbolt tube from the diff. Unbolt brake backing plate from right side tube, slide the whole thing out. Support backing plate, and put a piece of wood over the end of the axle and hammer the **** out of it, driving the axle out of the drum and backing plate.
I've spent hours fighting stuck drums, and when I tore down a rear end to swap diffs out I realized it's not hard to pull the axle with the drum on it and then knock the axle out.
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When I did mine there was a giant snap ring on the inside lip of the drum that gets stuck on the brake shoes, I used a giant flat head screwdriver and a small pry bar and just worked the drum back and forth until it wiggled off
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jeepwm69 said:
After messing with these and actually destroying (well actuall BASFNB did) a backing plate trying to get a stuck drum off, I think the way to go is to remove the whole rear axle assembly with the drum and backing plate still attached.
Remove left axle hub and unbolt tube from the diff. Unbolt brake backing plate from right side tube, slide the whole thing out. Support backing plate, and put a piece of wood over the end of the axle and hammer the **** out of it, driving the axle out of the drum and backing plate.
I've spent hours fighting stuck drums, and when I tore down a rear end to swap diffs out I realized it's not hard to pull the axle with the drum on it and then knock the axle out.
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I would only do this as a last resort. I buggered up the threads on the end of the axle when hammering on the wood. On the back of the backing plate is a seal and behind it is a snap ring holding the bearing in. Until that snap ring comes out, the axle ain't coming out of the backing plate.
That ring on the inner lip of the drum shouldn't need to come out. First, does the drum move at all before catching on the pads or is it seized to the axle? If it slides off a little and then stops, try clocking the drum differently.
Every drum I've had issues with would only come off and go back on in one position. If it's not moving at all, the safest bet would be to remove the backing plate with the axle still attached, remove the snap ring for the bearing, and have the axle pressed out of the drum and plate.
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convict1997 said:
I would only do this as a last resort. I buggered up the threads on the end of the axle when hammering on the wood.
.
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Dang man, what kinda wood were you using?
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I have had the axle out of the bike by the repair shop, it's been in a 20 tonne press and still did not come apart.
Apart from buying a new axle and drum does anyone have any miracle solution to spray or soak the past in before I give up and only run front brakes on the bike
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Try soaking it in 1/2 Acetone, 1/2 ATF.
I had a 450LB inpact that wouldn't remove an axle nut a couple of weeks ago. I soaked it in that solution for a couple of days and it came off easily with the same impact.
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If the the cam froze on adjusted by the brakes and the drum has a lip from rust on the drum liner snap ring it will be painful one way or another Sometimes the brake cam sticks slightly on I have hit the cam with a brass hammer to free it up just unstuck mine as I wore out the rear disk kit again. going back to drum. . Remove the brake cam after the drums off , wire wheel or sand smooth grease it where it goes through.
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olduglyforeman said:
If the the cam froze on adjusted by the brakes and the drum has a lip from rust on the drum liner snap ring it will be painful one way or another Sometimes the brake cam sticks slightly on I have hit the cam with a brass hammer to free it up just unstuck mine as I wore out the rear disk kit again.
going back to drum. . Remove the brake cam after the drums off , wire wheel or sand smooth grease it where it goes through.
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So you're ditching the rear disc kit and going back stock?
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yep wearing pads out every 100 miles (2-3 rides). Drum brake has been back on 250 miles.
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I thought about doing the rear disc brake, but wanted to see how well it held up to real world use.
Glad I held off.
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djr1718 said:
I have a 98 Foreman 450 with no rear brakes. Started to take the rear assembly apart, have removed all bolts both side of the hub.
After half a day of penetrating fluid I got the brake cover off.Now the drum is stuck and doesn't want to come off by the look at the cover this is the first time since new the brakes have been looked at.
Any suggestions on how to get the drum off the axle, is it worth making a drum brake puller or is the a clip that needs to be removed ??
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
Click to expand...
this is an old post but I figured this may help someone...my rear drum seized up and I had a hard time getting it apart...one of the shoe linings came off and over time wore down on 1 end and ended up jamming in between the drum and the other brake shoe....I had to remove the backing plate and I drilled 2 holes in the drum so I could put a big punch in on the shoe and beat on 1 side at a time and worked it apart...it took some work because the drum had to be held so the backing plate and shoes would come out when beating on the shoes...the drum was still usable and easy to drill because of being aluminium...the other way I could have done it was cutting the brake drum in half but then the drum would need replaced...I have worked on bikes for many years and it was the 1st time I saw this happen.
..also I never used the rear brakes from when I bought it new and the brakes and cables were ruined because of not ever being used
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Now: $239.
95
This Honda ATV Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit is exactly what you need if you are looking to replace the high-maintenance, unreliable stock rear drum brakes!
If you ride in a lot of harsh conditions, you have quickly noticed that the seals on the factory drum does not hold up well and allow dirt, grit, mud, and water to enter and eat up your brake pads and wheel cylinder. Of course you can go the cheaper route and buy new pads, IF, your wheel cylinders are still in working condition. However, once you hit the mud and water again those new pads will quickly wear out.
Your Honda is going to last forever, invest now and get the braking power you need!
Kit Features:
Pair these with the Honda ATV Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for the ultimate stopping power!
Click here for Installation Instructions
Applications:
Honda Rancher 350 (2000-2006)
Honda Rancher 400AT (2004-2007)
Honda Foreman 400 (1995-2003)
Honda Foreman 450 (1998-2004)
Honda Foreman 500 (2005-2012)
Honda Rubicon 500 (2001-2012)
Notes:
- You must have 12" or larger wheels installed on your ATV for properly caliper clearance.
- Will not fit models with drum brakes near the center of the rear axle. Only fits models with drum brake on the far right side of the rear axle area. (SEE PICS BELOW)
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According to the regulations for the work carried out as part of the seasonal maintenance of vehicles, the condition of the brake pads must be checked.
If we talk about the front brake pads, then access to them is relatively easy, since their wear can be assessed visually without dismantling the caliper in which they are attached. As for the rear pads, they can only be inspected by removing the brake drum.
Because of the difficult access to the brake pads that are in the drum, many car owners put off this type of work. However, this should not be done, because removing the rear brake drums is not so difficult as it seems at first glance.
It is not necessary to take the car to a specialized car service to get to the rear brake pads for evaluation or replacement.
To remove the rear brake drum, you will need the following set of tools:
Removal Instructions and Diagram
Use a jack to raise the rear of the car. Before doing this, do not forget to place bars or other objects under the front wheels to be sure that the car will not roll anywhere. Loosen the bolts and remove the rear wheel. As a rule, after several tens of thousands of kilometers of run, the brake drums have time to turn sour, and therefore their removal can be difficult.
However, this problem can be easily dealt with using special tools. In such a situation, you can use WD40: generously apply this liquid to the drum in those places where it has stuck to the back cover, and wait at least 10 minutes for the product to work well on the rusted metal. After that, try again to remove the rear brake drum.
Grease
To prevent this from happening in the future, carefully apply special grease around the circumference of the drum before reinstalling it. This will slow down the action of corrosion and prevent the possibility of its re-souring. If you need to disassemble this mechanism again, then next time you will avoid the same troubles and perform disassembly much faster.
In order not to fear for your safety while driving a private car, inspect its main systems in advance, diagnose suspension parts, assess the condition of the steering, check the level of all working fluids. It is this approach to vehicle maintenance that will ensure its trouble-free operation.
This video shows how to remove the rear brake drums:
Jacking up the car
Screw in the guide pins
4
4 Drum removed
Scooter repair
Adjust the drum brake on a scooter when:
Consider all the points in more detail:
During the operation of the scooter, the brake pads wear out.
The wear of the pads requires a greater stroke of the brake lever, up to its complete punching. The problem is solved by tightening the adjusting nut located at the wheel. In the case when the nut is tightened to the stop, but there is no desired effect, you can rearrange the lever itself, which is located on the cam axis, by 1-2 splines. In this case, you will need to remove the rear wheel.
If the wheel of the scooter brakes spontaneously, the first thing to do is to check the brakes. The adjusting nut may be over tightened and should be loosened. Usually at this stage the problem is solved.
possible pollution. The fact is that oil from the same gearbox oil seal could get between the brake drum and the brake linings. Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency after that. In addition, cheap low-quality pads a priori do not want to perform the task assigned to them, they constantly creak and wear out very quickly.
Therefore, it is very important not to save money when buying pads and give preference to eminent brands such as Ferodo and Brembo.
If the brake lever does not want to actively return to its original position, but does it very sluggishly and reluctantly, Check the return springs of the brake mechanism, lubricate the cam that pushes the pads apart. Sometimes a banal cable jam can also lead to similar consequences.
Scooter drum brake squeaking is common and ubiquitous. As a rule, inexpensive Chinese pads creak and there is no cure for this. Temporarily helps cleaning them with gasoline, followed by sanding the brake drum with sandpaper. If the creaking annoys you, and you doubt the quality of these parts, again pay attention to high-quality brake pads.
Do not forget that periodic maintenance of this unit, for example, at the same time as replacing a scooter tire or any other operation associated with removing a wheel, must be carried out.
