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2016 YXZ1000R
2016 YXZ1000R
2016 YXZ1000R
2016 YXZ1000R
2016 YXZ1000R
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
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Sent by 19 October 2016 - 11:23
Hello Shanovna panstvo) Here is a question for you. When descending my rubber to 0.8 atm. tire sidewalls spend air, which naturally causes certain inconveniences. In one of the publications of Gena "Fat Man" I read that he puts tires on glass sealant, and can go down to zero and not take off his shoes. Today I consulted at a tire fitting, where they told me that with such a fit, it would be impossible to remove the rubber from the disk. If there is a breakdown, or a cut, then when the rubber is removed from the disk, the sidewall simply comes off. They offered a variant with a chamber, but also not an option, since at a pressure of 0.8 atm. the camera is chewing. I'm thinking, can the wheel be put on a non-hardening sealant? But, will it not squeeze out when the tire is lowered? Who will tell you about this? Thanks in advance to everyone!
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 11:40
If the wheel is poisoning in the situation you described, then: 1.
Rusty disc hump. 2. Wrong disc width. Glass sealant can save the situation. Before applying the sealant, pretreatment with a primer. You can disassemble later. But it will be quite gemorno to remove the remnants of the old sealant. Or think about replacing the disks with smooth, not rusty ones, of the correct width. With the right humps.
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 11:49
Wheels are smooth, not rusty, not broken, aluminum. It's just that the sidewall of the tire is stiff. I have a silver mt117 sport. Wheel width 8 inches, matched correctly for rubber 285 to 75.
What is a primer? (Forgive my denseness ((()
And one more thing. The white wolf says that he falls rubber onto liquid polyurethane. What is this?
Post has been edited by Vazhnyak: 19 October 2016 - 11:43
Sent 19 October 2016 - 11:54
Primer, this is primer.
Which treat the surface before applying the sealant. Without a primer, the sealant will not adhere to the surface. Aluminum wheels are also susceptible to corrosion.
Sent 19 October 2016 - 11:59
I was also told at the tire fitting that if you put it on the sealant, then this is a "one-time fit", it will be impossible to disassemble it without damaging the rubber. But in case of a puncture, there are repair kits without disassembly, those that were sold in the club. As an option.
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 12:03
IMHO sealant delivers more inconvenience than it benefits.
Non-hardening - you have to try, but most likely there will be little sense.
So either put beadlocks, or the right wheels, or softer rubber.
I went the "right drives" way. I installed an interco birddog. It is difficult to get them, but the advantages are obvious - up to 0.4 atmospheres you can not worry about descent or disassembly.
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 12:26
Bead Sealer TECH Company
Tubeless tire bead sealant is able to provide maximum sealing at the point of contact. Thus, it extends the life of worn and old tires. This type of material is used to apply to the inside of the tire bead prior to mounting on the rim.
Even a perfectly flat new rim and the most flexible tire cannot guarantee an absolutely tight joint, so when installing new tires, experts recommend using a bead seal.
Features of using bead sealant for tubeless tires:
Before removing the tire from the rim.
Breakdown fluid is applied to the joint between tire bead and rim. Next, the tire is removed from the disk.
The company TESN offers for the dismantling of tires stuck to a disc of any type and size the corresponding liquids only of high quality, developed in its own laboratories and tested in practice.
Without such direct links, I understand that this is not advertising, who needs to google it.
Post has been edited by Kooper: 19 October 2016 - 13:52
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 12:42
I had tires beaded on sealant many times at tire shops (I don’t know the type, I was at the tire shop in a 5l bucket).
It came off normally (I change winter tires to all-weather tires and back twice a year).
But I don’t know how much it will help when descending to 0.8, I didn’t check it.
I was smeared with sealant precisely because it was etching between the disc and the tire at an operating pressure of 2.2
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 13:42
We always put our wheels (low pressure) on the body sealant.
And the tightness and rotation are excellent - you need to take a little trouble with the removal (without taking it to the tire fitting), but the rubber does not deteriorate at all.
Sent 19 October 2016 - 13:53
desdichado tell me please, how do you shoot?
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 13:54
Glass adhesive also based on polyurethane. If you do not smear the disk with a complete primer (primer), then there are no problems to sort it out. The tire fitters who scared you most likely didn’t try it themselves, they only heard horror stories. Yes, it is difficult to remove old glue from the disk.
But if you spread the glue only where it is needed, then it lags behind along with the rubber, since it sticks to it more strongly. You don't need to clean it off the rubber, just smear it again and that's it. For three years of using the F-Belov kit on glue, I have never had to go to vulcanization. I glued the wheels with laces 10 times, sometimes I shoved four pieces at a time. But if suddenly there is a serious cut, then it is unlikely that the operation of the tire will be possible. Lubricate the disc not from the hump to the edge, but from the middle of the landing track, also smear the rubber, but the entire landing surface. Better with a rubber spatula, layer up to 1 ml.
I remembered that a solvent for washing polyurethane foam guns makes it a little easier to remove glue residue, it is also good to treat rubber before application. Do not process the disc, just wipe it clean with a dry cloth.
Post has been edited by fat man: 19 October 2016 - 13:57
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 15:36
desdichado tell me please, how do you shoot?
A sledgehammer and a mentor.
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 17:56
Wheels are smooth, not rusty, not broken, aluminum. It's just that the sidewall of the tire is stiff. I have a silver mt117 sport. The width of the disk is 8 inches, it is chosen correctly for rubber 285 by 75. And what is a primer? (Forgive my denseness ((() And one more thing.
The white wolf says that he falls rubber onto liquid polyurethane. What is this?
It was the same tires on the 450 Lex. The wheels were original, from the factory, I don’t remember the width. Nothing went down to 0.6.
Sent by 19 October 2016 - 19:11
Many thanks to everyone, especially Gena! I understood the algorithm, and therefore I will explain its methodology at the tire fitting!
Sent by 04 December 2017 - 11:34
Vazhnyak, Do you already have experience with sealant?
What tire shop did you do in Kyiv?
I have the same problem.
Sent by 04 December 2017 - 16:00
So the 11th post describes everything clearly and in detail. I already have the second set of silvers and it's on glass, without a primer.
Tried up to 0.3 - normal. On a light car.
I plan to someday convert it into a primer, and test it with zero pressure at all.
Sent by 04 December 2017 - 16:56
Where can I do this in Kyiv?
Sent by 04 December 2017 - 18:24
The rubber was new, the wheels were cast, not new - before the procedure, I put a bare disk on the car and sanded the surface adjacent to the rubber with sandpaper and water, idling in 3rd gear.
A quick and not laborious process, as it turned out.
I put on all the rubber at the tire shop - both sides to the hump.
Degreased one, smeared it, connected the compressor (stationary) - boom-boom and you're done. Then the next, and so on.
Sent by 05 December 2017 - 17:32
I always used an internal inflatable bedlock (tairlock), below 0.4 you can’t deflate, it can burst on impact.
Sent by 05 December 2017 - 17:45
How much glass sealant is needed for a 16" disc?
Is 600 ml enough for 5 wheels?
Regarding the beadlocks, my hand will not rise to drill VSMPO forged wheels.
Vladimir Gavrilov
Estimated reading time: 3 minutes
9169
Category: Auto Maintenance
Many drivers are in no hurry to buy additional wheels for winter use, they use the same wheels they used in summer. Well, tires twice a year go through a harsh operation of disassembly and reassembly, which does not improve their condition. Vyacheslav Subbotin, an automotive expert, captain and engineer of the GazReid Sport rally team, tells what kind of damage a wheel can get due to poor-quality work.
The vast majority of tire shops use old and worn equipment. People who work there are not always highly qualified, because the working conditions are difficult, and the turnover is high.
As a result, not everyone and not always can remove and put the tire on the disk well. There is a high risk of damage to the side rings of the tire.
The point is that the tire beads must not stretch. When installed correctly, the tire fits snugly against the rim of the rim and ensures the tightness of the tire. For these purposes, split or continuous bead rings are made of several layers of strong steel wire, which are then covered with a hard cord and a layer of rubber. The rings create a solid profile that holds the tire firmly to the rim. However, if the rings are pressed through, the tire will lose strength and begin to bleed air. A little at first, and then a daily swap will be required. Naturally, driving on such a wheel will already be problematic.
One wrong beading can ruin a tire completely. Damage is most often caused on a broken mounting machine. In addition, the disk itself deteriorates during tire fitting. If the light-alloy wheel is hit or dropped, then scratches and even chips of the upper lacquered layer appear on it.
