How to replace atv cv boot


Replacement of a CV boot

The CV joint, the half-axle, the half-shaft, the axle, or even the drive shaft are some of the many names of this mechanical part. It is a very important part in a motor vehicle, but it is also, in fact, a very simple mechanism. Let’s demystify this mechanical assembly.

First thing first, let’s agree on a name. In reality, we are talking about a half-wheel axle. A few joint variants are used in the assembly of a half-axle. Two mechanical principles are the most often used: the universal joints and the constant velocity joints.

The universal joint (U-joint)

The universal joint is extremely simple and is an excellent economical choice. The Italian inventor M. Cardano perfected this technique to couple two rotating shafts that are not aligned or when the angular positions relative to each other vary. In the ATV industry, it is mainly used on drive shafts and more rarely on half-axles.

Composed of a cross-section and yokes that are very economical to replace, this mechanism also has a downside. Its operation results from a non-linearity of rotation. To counter this phenomenon, a second U-joint must be installed on the same shaft, at the same angle, and synchronized by a quarter turn. Another dark facet is its vulnerability to water which will disintegrate it.

Example of non-linearity of the universal joint

The constant velocity joint (CV joint)

The constant velocity joint is a much more advanced mechanism. Its linearity is almost perfect, which results in smoother operation. As it is more complex, it is also much more expensive. Its design requires grease to lubricate it as well as to dissipate heat. A simple intrusion of water or sand into the assembly will contaminate the grease and inflict fatal punishment on the joint. As it is protected by a flexible bellow or boot, you can easily guess the importance of it being kept in good condition.

Periodic check of your half-axle boots

A simple visual inspection of the CV joint boots can tell you if you need to take action. The presence of grease outside the boot indicates that immediate repair is needed. Traces of wear or cracks on the bellows are signs of repair intervention in a near future.

Choice of replacement boots

There are four choices of replacement CV boots on the market. That of the manufacturer of your ATV (OEM), the replacement “jobber” boot (aftermarket), the universal boot, and the replacement kit sold in two parts to be bonded together.

The latter is a real joke and I don’t recommend it. This replacement boot is split into two parts which must be assembled around the constant velocity joint and then bonded with glue. Cleanliness and very good dexterity are a must in this case. Repairing a CV boot with this kit is, indeed, really not as easy as it seems.

The third solution, the universal boot, can be interesting. This bellow does not require disassembly of the constant velocity joints. You have to stretch the boot and pass it over the joint. The boot composition is usually very flexible, but is also more fragile to the impact of branches and other objects encountered on the trails

The OEM and aftermarket replacement boots are, in my opinion, the best choices. Those are the ones I recommend.

Replacement boot assembly

Replacing a half-axle boot

ATV used: CFMoto CForce 1000

Required tools

  • Basic mechanics tools
  • CV boot clamp pliers
  • Torque wrench

Removal of the wheel and disassembly of the brake caliper will be necessary. Unscrew the nut from the end of the half axle. Remove the retaining bolts from the ball joint suspension links on the steering knuckle. Release the assembly and set aside the knuckle.

Remove the half axle from the differential by pulling it firmly. It may be necessary to use a lever between the differential and the half-axle. Take care not to damage the differential seal.

Remove the clamps from the boot to be replaced using sharp wire cutters. Cut the old boot and set it aside. Inspect the grease in the CV joint. If the grease is not contaminated with water, sand, or dust, that is good news: the CV joint may still be in good condition. If, on the other hand, the grease is discolored or contaminated, the joint is likely damaged. In other words, even if the boot is replaced, a premature CV joint failure is to be expected.

To separate the CV joint from the half-axle, it will be necessary to use a hammer to hit it with a few light strokes. Use a brass punch and strike only in the central part near the half-axle. Note its installation position, it should not be reversed. Once the parts are separated, remove as much of the old grease as possible. Inspect the condition of the CV joint. If there are scratches or traces of abrasion, unfortunately, the joint will have to be replaced.

Damaged CV joint

Reassembly of the CV joint

First, put the small clamp on the half-axle. Then slip the CV boot. Pour some of the grease supplied with the replacement boot onto the constant velocity joint. Now reinstall the joint on the half axle. Make sure that it is properly locked in place. Pour the rest of the grease into the boot and put it in place over the CV joint. Install both clamps and tighten them using the boot clamp pliers.

CV Boot clamp pliers

Now you just have to reinstall the half-axle by reversing the procedure. Position the C-lock in the center of the half-axle, this will facilitate its insertion into the differential. If some oil has leaked out of the differential during repair, simply fill up the oil level. Make sure to respect the tightening torque of the wheel bearing nut.

In conclusion, a CV boot repair is a relatively simple operation. If there is any doubt as to the condition of your CV joint, it is possible to get a replacement unit without replacing the whole half-axle. However, in most cases, the cost of both parts (boot and CV joint), will exceed that of a full replacement half-axle assembly. Check the two options.

HOW-TO: Replace CVs & Axles

CV axles are used to drive every model UTV and independently suspended ATV on the market. Whether replacing a torn CV boot, a broken axle, or even upgrading to stronger or longer axles for an aftermarket suspension, as an ATV enthusiast, you are bound to be tearing into one at one time or another. While it looks a bit scary, there really is little mystery to axle repair, and the same basic process can be used on almost any model CV axle.

We will show you how to rebuild a broken RZR XP axle with OEM Polaris parts, but you can use these same steps for CV boot replacement with a boot kit from Moose Racing or All Balls. MTA also has a new, reasonably priced line of Slasher CV axles and boots.

Tools needed:
• Bench vise
• Dead blow or brass hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side dikes
• Small flat screwdriver
• Band clamp tension tool
• Moly CV-joint grease

STEP ONE
Remove the axle from the machine. Secure the vehicle on
jack stand using a wheel underneath the skid plate as a safety.
Remove the link or A-arm retaining bolt and hub-retaining
nut from the end of the axle, and remove the hub assembly
from the axle. STEP TWO
Use a swift pull straight out on the shaft to remove the axle
assembly from the differential. A couple of quick pops should
be all it takes to get them out.STEP THREE
You will need a clean work area with plenty of rags, as this
is a messy job. Use a degreaser and clean the axle assembly
before disassembling it to prevent contaminants from getting
into the
CVs. Use a small screwdriver or side dikes to open
the CV boot clamps.STEP FOUR
Pull the boots away from the CV joint and up the axle.
Clamp the axle in a vise; clamp where the boot covers if the
axles are painted or powdercoated. Grasp the joint as shown
and smack the CV joint with the dead blow or brass hammer.
It will take a bit of force to drive the joint off the axle. Flip the
axle around in the vise and repeat the same process for the
other side.STEP FIVE
Keeping everything laid out in order, clean the parts and
replace the parts that are damaged. Slide the boots onto the
axle, and then install the small clip onto the axle end. Be sure
to use the proper boots on the correct ends of the axle.STEP SIX
You can either hold the axle in the vise and drive the joint onto it, or, if you have a table with a hole in it, you can place the joint securely in it and drive the axle down into the joint. If you have any issues keeping the clip in place, you can make a temporary ring compressor with a zip-tie, and then cut it off after assembly. Flip the axle over and repeat for the other side.STEP SEVEN
Pack the CV joints with a high-quality, Moly, CV-joint grease,
and then clean the clamping surface free of grease. Slide the
boots into position and install the new CV boot clamps.STEP EIGHT
There are two different types of CV boot straps. To tighten
and secure the CV boot clamps, you will either need a set
of side dikes or an actual CV boot-strap tightening tool. This
tool can be rented or purchased at any automotive parts
store.STEP NINE
Replace your rebuilt CV axle into your UTV or ATV. Be
sure to use LocTite, and place any spring washers or circlips
in the same position. Re-torque your wheels and enjoy your
ride.

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Replacement of drive boots. - CFMoto X8 FAQ

Repair and maintenance‎ > ‎

Replacing drive boots.

Quote:

Remove the wheel, unscrew the lower shock absorber support,
unscrew the nut and undock the lower arm inner pivot assembly.
Pull the drive inner CV joint out of the gearbox. This usually works out without a problem.
We pull out the entire drive from the hub. We clamp it in a vice.
Remove the clamps with pliers, move the anther inside.
We remove all grease from the inner CV joint and, prying with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the groove.
Now the CV joint filling can be pulled out of the bell.
We remove one more retaining ring from the shaft (expanding, it is better to use a tool for removing retaining rings, with bent jaws) and pull off the inner race with a separator and balls from it.
Flush everything, inspect for wear and damage.
Note the location of the separator. Cone INSIDE.
Put on a new boot, clamps.
Assemble in reverse order. Don't forget to lubricate.
Clamps to tighten the conscience. I made a fixture, now it's very convenient.

Often, pulling the drive out of the gearbox does not work. Then, you can remove it without removing it from the gearbox:

I will add one more thing: I did not remove the grenade from the gearbox. removed the clamps, moved the anther inward, removed the retaining ring with a screwdriver and pulled out the drive. I washed everything, put on a duster and put everything back together. (To see the retaining ring holding the CV joint, you need to remove the grease from the edge, and the ring will be visible in the recesses for the balls. It remains only to find its slot.)

Note:
If you had to disassemble the internal CV joint on the spot, then during assembly it is necessary to ensure "sterility" so that dust and dirt do not pour into it.

To do this, BEFORE removing the anther from it, it is necessary to clean the surface of the grenade as thoroughly as possible from the side of the gearbox (where the anther is put on with a wide part, and from where we will begin to disassemble). The upper arm should be wrapped with a clean rag, and the frame over the gearbox should also be wrapped. On the lower arm, you can simply throw a clean rag. In general, it is necessary to close as much as possible those places that, during assembly, we can touch with a hand or a tool, and provoke dust or dirt to fall.

Note 2:

The same procedure applies when replacing the outer boot. Having disassembled the inner CV joint, and removing its small separator from the drive, we get the opportunity to replace the outer anther.

True, it can be a problem here to knock the small separator of the outer CV joint from the drive, for disassembly and flushing. The quality of the retaining rings is such that after some run, the probability of removing the drive from the gearbox, or removing the small separator of the outer CV joint from the drive, is almost unrealistic.

But the internal drive is perfectly disassembled.

Thank you grekb for the quality description!

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ATV boot replacement: procedure steps and recommendations | Society

Breaks or holes in the component occur regularly due to high loads. Therefore, gasoline-powered ATVs should be checked regularly for damage to the anthers. If this is not done, dirt, moisture or dust may enter the CV joint. This, in turn, will lead to its breakdown and increase the cost of servicing the four-wheeler. Therefore, let's figure out how the ATV boot is replaced and when it should be done.

When is it necessary to change the CV joint boot on an ATV?

Since ATVs are used to drive on difficult tracks (mud, sand, snow, puddles, etc.), its components must have increased protection. And it is especially important to secure the constant velocity joint (CV joint), which transmits torque at angles of rotation.

ATV boots should be replaced if:

  • There was a gap.
  • A large number of microcracks formed.
  • Traces of lubricant are visible on the surface of the anther.

It is this component that protects the CV joint from dirt, moisture, dust and other foreign objects. Damage to the anther can lead to the complete destruction of the assembly. So you need to inspect it at least once a month (with the active operation of the equipment).

What do you need to replace the boot on an ATV?

If you notice that the rubber element of the CV joint is damaged, you should purchase a new consumable. But before that, make sure that the node itself is in working condition. That is, when driving, there should be no knocks in the swivel area.

ATV boot must:

  • Tolerate temperature fluctuations well.
  • Tightly fit the mechanism (no gaps).
  • Maintain shape under compression and stretching.
  • Have resistance to various chemicals.

The brand also plays a key role in choosing a consumable. The products of SKF, Maruichi, GKN, Spidan, RBI have proven themselves well. To select the right component, you only need to know the part number.

Important : Only buy boots from reputable brands. Non-original consumables often come off, tear or leak moisture.

Replacing the anther on the ATV CV joint

Before starting the procedure, the ATV must be washed well. This is necessary so that dirt or debris does not get into the CV joint. After that, the rider needs:

  • Place the quad on a jack, unscrew and remove the wheel.
  • Remove the lever protection (usually a 10 wrench is needed for this).
  • Remove dirt from the surface of the mechanism.
  • Unfasten the boot clamps with adjustable pliers.
  • Unscrew the bolt of the lower ball joint (this requires a key of 15).
  • Loosen the shock absorber bolt.
  • Move the duster away.
  • Remove the circlip using a narrow screwdriver.
  • Remove the separator and pull off the boot.
  • Rinse the "grenade" with kerosene.
  • Apply special grease to the CV joint itself and push it into the boot.
  • Put on the new component and reassemble.

In fact, replacing the CV joint boot of an ATV is a rather complicated and time-consuming task that requires a lot of experience.


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