Generally speaking you will want to replace the spark plug(s) after each 100 hours of use. This assumes of course that your engine is running normally and you are not experiencing problems like a "rough engine" or an engine that fails to catch while the ignition is turning over. If these occur it's time to pull the plug and determine if it is the problem or some other component is the cause.
Actually pulling the plug, inspecting and replacing it only takes 5 to 10 minutes. However, unlike a car you can't pull a handle and pop the hood to get to the spark plug. On an ATV you have to remove plastic (exterior panels) to expose the plug and depending on your brand that could be a lot of plastic. Pulling off parts is the real time consumer for this task.
Because it takes a bit of work to "open up" your ATV it's a good idea to check a couple of items while they are easily accessible. Make certain that the bolts on the battery cables are firmly attached to the battery posts. A common "won't start" problem is often the result of hard riding loosening the bolts from the battery terminals.
Your exhaust system is another component that is accessible in most models when you have sufficient exterior panels removed to get to the spark plug. Check the bolts holding the pipe to the engine to ensure a secure fit.
The steps we provide below are general in nature and are not meant to replace the instructions found in your OEM owner's manual. Obviously different brands have different engine mounting configurations meaning the location of the spark plug and how easy it is to access will vary. When in doubt, follow the OEM instructions. Our tips are intended to show you that this repair can be done as a DIY project saving you professional labor costs and a more enjoyable ATV experience.
The last thing you need is debris falling into the engine once you have pulled the plug.
Use the gap gauge to set the gap and then reinstall.
Place the boot over the plug and push down until you hear it snap into position.Replacing the spark plug is a simple DIY task that almost anyone can accomplish in a minimal amount of time.
- End of Procedure -
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In many ways, the spark plug in your ATV is its beating heart. Not only does the spark plug start the engine in the first place, but it also keeps firing a spark every revolution of the engine (or every second revolution if you have a four-stroke).
Electrical energy is sent through the spark plug, causing a spark of electricity to jump the small gap if the voltage is high enough. This spark is in the perfect position to ignite the mixture of gas and air in the combustion chamber.
The importance of the spark plug to your ATV, UTV, or snowmobile’s operation means when something goes wrong with it, you’ll know pretty quickly. Spark plugs that appear white have likely been overheating. Those that are yellowing are typically affected by rust. These issues can be resolved by replacing the spark plug.
But what if your spark plugs keep turning black? This is an interesting conundrum, as there are a few possible reasons for charred or dark spark plugs. In this article, we’ll look at the top reasons your spark plugs are turning black and how to stop it from happening again.
Engine flooding occurs when fuel sits in the engine without being burnt. When the engine floods, this fuel can reach the spark plug, causing it to blacken and ultimately stop working as required.
It’s pretty easy to flood an ATV, UTV, or snowmobile engine if you’re not careful. Starting up the engine and then immediately stopping it often results in flooding because the fuel hasn’t had time to be burned.
In this case, your vehicle may refuse to start up because the spark plug is covered in fuel.
For a quick fix, you can remove the spark plug and clean the area of fuel. Dry off the spark plug, and you should be back in business. You may be better off simply replacing the spark plug with a new one, though, to ensure it will work perfectly.
You can release the drain screw of the carburetor to drain all the fuel from the carb. If the engine is flooding due to a mechanical failure, you’ll need to get to the bottom of the issue. But removing and cleaning a carb is a relatively complex affair.
Inside the carb, the float level is critical to flooding. Too high, and the pilot circuit will be flooded with fuel. Too low, and the main jet lacks fuel at high speeds. The float level has a particularly low tolerance, often 1.5-2.5mm but sometimes only 1mm.
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Another culprit for black spark plugs is an oil leak.
Oil can make its way to the spark plug through a faulty gasket, worn washers, or old O-rings.
If you can’t find the leak there, the valve guides or piston may be leaking oil. You’ll need to replace the part that’s leaking oil and replace the spark plug that’s been compromised.
If your carburetor is running too rich (i.e., too much gas), then this can cause calcium deposits to build up on the spark plug. If your mixture is too rich, you’ll likely also be noticing other symptoms, such as excessive black smoke from the exhaust.
These carbon deposits are a pain because electricity always seeks the path of least resistance, and carbon is an excellent conductor! The electricity will no longer be performing its duty to spark the gas correctly, resulting in poor performance overall.
Though there are a few reasons your fuel mixture could be too rich, in this case, the most likely cause is old engine oil. If you leave too much time between oil changes, you’ll see the results of the neglect here at the spark plug (alongside damage to other mechanics).
Resolve the issue by replacing your engine oil. New oil will break down the built-up carbon, so it gets stuck in the oil filter. And remember to keep changing your oil regularly.
In general, expect to replace spark plugs every 100 hours you ride your vehicle. As usual, this is just a general guideline, as hard riding or a hot climate can prematurely put a spark plug out of commission.
Thankfully, spark plugs are relatively inexpensive, and it’s easy to change them yourself. First, remove the spark plug wire by hand. Take a wrench to unscrew the old spark plug, and use it again to install your new spark plug, ensuring it’s tight.
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Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Good afternoon everyone. I recently became a user of Stels Guepard 800, I have it in my hands, and I also have a garage. Bought a used quad, good condition.
Now I want to make a major overhaul (sort out the variator, change the oil, replace the spark plugs).
The question is, who will tell you where the second candle is located on the Stels Guepard 800, the one on the left, quickly found and changed.
But the one on the right (this is my guess) is hiding behind the casing of the variator. I ask Stealth to confirm that my search for the second spark plug is going in the right direction and I need to look for it behind the CVT housing.
Give thanks.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Walk along the wires in general in front and behind, the basins on the motor and look there. I think the vario has nothing to do with it. Unscrew the side black panels, they will.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Cerdg wrote:
Walk along the wires in general in front and behind, the basins on the motor and look there.
I think the vario has nothing to do with it. Unscrew the side black panels, they will.
Click to expand...
There is a red power cord at the marking. Until I get to the spark plug, I'm waiting for the variator main shaft puller
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Sarapul wrote:
red power wire.
Click to expand...
Starter? see above, closer to the seat.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
on the right side of the board, the candle is almost in the middle.
Remove the plastic from the right sidewall behind the shift rod.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Sarapul wrote:
Good afternoon everyone. I recently became a user of Stels Guepard 800, I have it in my hands, and I also have a garage. Bought a used quad, good condition.
Now I want to make a major overhaul (sort out the variator, change the oil, replace the spark plugs).
The question is, who will tell you where the second candle is located on the Stels Guepard 800, the one on the left, quickly found and changed.
But the one on the right (this is my guess) is hiding behind the casing of the variator. I ask Stealth to confirm that my search for the second spark plug is going in the right direction and I need to look for it behind the CVT housing.
Give thanks.Click to expand...
Download the dominator service manual from the stealth faq website and read it.
What is the mileage?
Injector wheelbarrow, spark plugs are probably normal, this is not a carburetor
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Saveli065 wrote:
Maybe her capital? If you already have questions with candles .
.. and the variator on the cheetah on the left side.
Click to expand...
wolves are afraid not to go into the forest. I agree with you that the parties were confused when I wrote the first message.
And yet, if the right side of the candle is visible, then where is the left side. Can you send a link to a photo?
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Maybe her capital? If you already have questions with candles ... and the variator on the cheetah on the left side.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
alek-morar wrote:
on the right side of the board, the candle stands almost in the middle.
Remove the plastic from the right sidewall behind the shift rod.
Click to open...
I studied this video, the author slyly says that the procedure for another candle is similar to this one only from the other side. And on the other hand, the variator is worth the effort, it is not visible there.
Replacement of spark plugs Stels Guepard 800
Sayger wrote:
Download the dominator manual from the Stealth FAQ site and read it.
What is the mileage?
Injector wheelbarrow, spark plugs are most likely normal, this is not a carburetorClick to open...
thank you. good book
The spark plug plays a vital role in igniting the combustible mixture in an internal combustion engine. It doesn't matter if you own a new car or not, spark plugs require periodic checks, cleaning and replacement. In modern cars of foreign manufacturers, the motor is closed with a plastic partition, but do not let this scare the car owner - self-replacement of candles in this case is also possible.
The choice of a new spark plug by the car owner is a responsible occupation, since the quality of the engine will largely depend on it. Pay attention to the brand of the manufacturer and do not hesitate to check the performance of the elements with the seller.
Especially in the automotive markets or in small shops where they sell faulty ones under the guise of new candles. Large car dealerships that value their reputation offer candle testing themselves. They use catalogs to simplify the selection of spark plugs for your car model.
If you are new to the choice of candles, focus on two main components - the geometric shape and glow number. Everything is clear with the shape - a minimum of differences from the previous one, otherwise you will not be able to screw it in or the electrodes will not reach the chambers in the engine. A spark plug that is too long is also detrimental to the engine, as it will disable either the spark plug or the internal combustion engine.
The heat number displays the heating mode of the element - with a low value, the candle quickly overheats. The recommended parameters are written in the service book for the car.
The classic version of the candle is a ceramic body, a metal cup with threads and two petals at the bottom.
There are candles with a large number of petals that are easy to recognize - there is a central electrode in the middle, which is surrounded by three or four electrodes on the side. This allows the fuel in the cylinder to ignite evenly and burn well. In addition, engine power is increased, as are environmental indicators.
There are no special safety regulations for replacing ignition elements in a vehicle. It is recommended to start it with a cooled motor so as not to get burned. Since spark plugs operate at extremely high temperatures, it is best not to try to replace immediately after stopping the vehicle, but to wait two to three hours for the engine to finally return to normal temperature.
For those who have never changed spark plugs, it does not hurt to know that there is nothing complicated in this procedure - the main thing is to do it carefully, in the correct order of actions.
The first step is to search for candles. On engines with four cylinders, they are usually located on one side of the internal combustion engine or on top, in V8 engines - on the side so that there is one candle for each of the cylinders. When looking for candles, focus on wires surrounded by black insulation. Finding them, you can easily find what you are looking for.
The next step will be the preparation of the necessary tools. Prepare a car key with a special nozzle for working with candles and a couple of new ignition elements. To facilitate the work, take a can of compressed air, a rag and industrial alcohol. If in the future you don't want to have trouble removing the spark plugs the next time you change them, apply a little spray lubricant to the threads before screwing in the spark plugs.
To prevent dirt from getting inside the cylinder, it must be removed before the old spark plug is removed, so clean the engine near the ignition element before starting the procedure.
Debris and dust is removed with compressed air, which makes cleaning much easier. If there is a lot of dirt, use a rag soaked in technical alcohol.
The spark plugs themselves are connected to the ignition distribution box with wires that need to be disconnected. To do this, grab its cap and pull with a little effort until the wire is disconnected. Remove the wire from only one candle so as not to get confused, as they are connected by special connectors that cannot be mixed up when connecting. Putting a nozzle for candles on the key, fix it on top of the element and turn it counterclockwise. After removing the candle, it is necessary to clean the dirt from the place where it stood. To do this, you will need a rag soaked in technical alcohol.
Be sure to inspect the spark plug electrodes. Make sure that the space between them is not clogged with dirt. Possible problems with the rings are indicated by an excess amount of oil on the candle.
In this case, it is not superfluous to show the car to the auto mechanic. If the old candle has a brownish tint, there are no problems in the operation of the motor.
Be sure to visually compare the old spark plug with the new element before starting installation. They must match. The size of the thread on the candle and its pitch must also be identical, as well as the gaps on the ignition elements. Lubricate the threads with a small amount of grease, but do not get on the electrodes themselves, as this is fraught with damage to the performance of the candle. After that, clockwise tighten the element by hand until there is enough strength. Use a wrench to tighten, but do not overtighten, as this can also damage the candle. Make sure that the washer on the spark plug is below the level of the head on the engine.
After installing the spark plugs, put the previously removed high voltage wires on them. The caps should be tight.
