Patching is a measure to be taken when the tire has a flat condition. The causes of the above damage are due to being punctured by a sharp object, or the wall is not well resistant to friction from both sides of the body and the road surface, causing the thing to be worn away.
In such cases, instead of replacing a new one, many people choose the economical repair and still ensure good quality.
So, when can a tire not be patched?
The article will analyze each case in detail. Let’s check it out!
How Do You Repair Tire Punctures Properly?The damage often is a hole, a leak of air, these are all minor injuries, and most are thriving. A common way to finish them is to thread a gas carrier wire inside through the leaks found.
If the gap does not fit the hand, the worker will expand and stretch the wound with hot crude oils. Although the repair technique is quite simple, if the artistry of the mechanic is not good, the fixation is not in the correct position, it will affect the life of the whole wheel.
The plugs and straps support many risks of breakage during the airflow leading to bulging and misaligned conditions in the product.
So the correct way to repair the process is:
Depending on the case, the repair method is also different, but your tire cannot be patched anymore when you encounter the following conditions.
The hole is too big.If the hole exceeds 6mm, you can never patch it. The larger the wound length, the higher the expansion problems; besides, the body structure is also gradually breaking down when the tearing of the air outlet is prolonged.
Next is the wear indicator that touches the 2/32 inch; danger will happen at any time because the traction is no longer adequate when you drive.
Your puncture is in the shoulder area.The tire’s sidewall is flexible and can be to a certain extent. When moving, the wheel is impacted by many objects such as gravel, etc.
So in terms of structure, the internal body design is more solid. When cracks appear in the tire’s sidewalls, the stickers during the move will peel off, weakening the air cushion between the repair contact surface, causing air to continue to leak.
It got stuck by a meteor.Damage from hitting a meteorite is actual. It was through the owner of the car. It looks pretty similar to commonly worn rocks, but the areas around the impact are melting because of the meteorite’s heat. So patching the damage is not possible.
Run-flat tiresWith this type, the process of releasing air pressure at the beginning of a puncture is slow, so you can continue to run to the repair shop.
But this is not too recommended because while moving, the body pressure has inadvertently eroded the wheel’s surface, solving the problem by multiplying.
Other problemsBesides the signs we have outlined above, there are many other reasons why you can not repair the wheel. Specifically:
There are many reasons given, but the main one is that the damage occurs too severely, or lasts a long time, causing many other tire factors.
If you try to patch it up to repair, the air seal will not hold because the running wires will push the rubber sheet away from there, returning to the original condition.
When the tire has damaged problems such as holes or wear on the wheel, it’s time to have it repaired. For common punctures, depending on the location determines the injury’s severity.
Regardless of exceptions, the hole is in the center of the tread, and the diameter exceeds 6mm; it is easy to fix. The patching method is also quite simple, but it requires an experienced professional to determine the correct position and force of the glue in the most accurate way.
Ideally, the tire should be complete from the rim for easy viewing, and the air outlet must fill, the wound mouth fixed from the inside.
Besides, you should regularly pay attention to the condition of the wheel to control the wear rate most surely. Driving to a service center is an effective way to protect both the tires and the body. Note that if the wear reaches the threshold of ⅔ inch, do not try to patch it but choose a new one.
For details, let’s see the video:
Can Bubble Tires Be Repaired?Bubbles in tires can be caused by many factors such as road conditions, lack of air pressure or weight overload, or manufacturing defects. The result of bubbles is the stretching of the layers in the wheel wall.
This situation can be re-filling it with air, preventing the delamination process. If you want to be sure, you should go to the center for effective maintenance.
ConclusionDetecting a wheel in trouble is relatively easy, but determining the tire’s extent is quite tricky. Although this problem occurs quite often, it also has aspects to pay attention to avoid, such as unrepairable cases to help save time and money.
In this article, we have given specific knowledge related to this issue. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach us to solve them as soon as possible.
By John Goreham G+ Jun 29 2020 - 11:03am
Many vehicle owners feel frustrated when they have a nail in the tire and are told by a tire shop that the tire cannot be repaired. Here are a few common reasons why it can’t be fixed.
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You just either rolled up to a tire shop on a flat, were towed in, or drove in with your spare on the car and the flat in the trunk. You have important things to do today, and since you can clearly see there is a nail in the tread, you expect to be told that the nail can be pulled out and the tire fixed quickly. However, after a quick glance, the tire shop says, “No can do, Bubba.” They are not just trying to sell you a new tire. There are real reasons why many flats cannot simply be patched.
Reason 1 Why Your Tire Cannot Be Repaired – You Drove On The Flat
Modern tires have an inner structure of the sidewall that is not designed to support your vehicle when uninflated.
You can usually get away with a flat tire rolling without air for a short distance – think yards, not miles. However, if you just drove 10 minutes on the flat, you destroyed that important sidewall structure and the tire cannot be repaired.
Related Story: Tire Shortages and Delays: Not Just For Tesla Owners Anymore
Reason 2 Why Your Tire Cannot Be Repaired – Your Puncture Is In The No Repair Zone
Modern tires also need to be puncture-free along the sides and in from the sides about 20% on both sides of the tire. If your puncture is near the sidewall you are out of luck. Tire shops need to keep customers safe, and they follow the standard industry guidelines and will not repair a puncture too close to either sidewall. They should err on the side of caution to protect your safety and protect themselves from liabiility. Most do.
Reason 3 Why Your Tire Cannot Be Repaired – Your Tire Has Other Issues
If you have a bubble, a tear, or a big honking carbuncle on the side of your tire, it is unrepairable.
Even if that is NOT why your tire went flat. If you have any area of the tire worn beyond the tread wear indicators, your tire is not repairable. If your tire is older than the internet, your tire is not repairable. If your tire is unevenly worn and any of the metal parts inside are visible your tire is not repairable. We can keep going. Basically, if your tire was not safe before the puncture, your tire shop would be crazy to try to repair the puncture. According to NHTSA, hundreds of people are killed each year due to tire failure. Your tire shop does not want you to be killed due to tire failure with the receipt for the repair sitting in the cupholder.
Reason 4 Your Tire Cannot Be Repaired - You Have Run Flat Tires
Many shops will not repair a run-flat tire that has had a puncture. Although run-flats are designed to get you to a shop or home when you have a puncture, they may not have been designed to then be repaired and continue in service after having been driven when deflated.
This is one reason we give run-flat tires like those on BMW vehicles a thumbs-down.
Reason 5 Your Tire Cannot Be Repaired - The Puncture Is Too Large
If the puncture in your tire isn't just a normal nail or screw, but rather a chunk of metal, your repair shop will tell you to buy a new tire. Sometimes the metal bruises or gouges the tire either inside or outside and the plug and patch method of repair is simply not safe to perform.
Reason 6 Why Your Tire Cannot be Repaired - It Was Struck By A Meteorite
We recently had a puncture that we surmised was a meteorite strike. Yes, it sounds crazy, but read our story and tell us if you have a better guess.
Take care of your tires and they will take care of you. If you have a tire-repair story to tell, feel free to offer it up in the comments below.
John Goreham is a life-long car nut and recovering engineer. John's focus areas are technology, safety, and green vehicles.
In the 1990s, he was part of a team that built a solar-electric vehicle from scratch. His was the role of battery thermal control designer. For 20 years he applied his engineering and sales talents in the high tech world and published numerous articles in technical journals such as Chemical Processing Magazine. In 2008 he retired from that career to chase his dream of being an auto writer. In addition to Torque News, John's work has appeared in print in dozens of American newspapers and he provides reviews to many vehicle shopping sites. You can follow John on Twitter, and view his credentials at Linkedin
Images by John Goreham. Use with permission only.
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Most often, we ourselves are to blame for the fact that tires become unusable. But this can be avoided.
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In the process of using a tire, a variety of damages can occur, most of which are the fault of the driver. As a result, rubber is wasted, and since the law prohibits the use of different tire models on the same axle, you have to spend money on replacing the second tire.
The most common damage is puncture . This is the most harmless type of damage, but only if you notice it in time and repair it right away. It is absolutely impossible to drive on a flat tire, even a couple of meters! The damage caused by running on a flat tire or with low pressure is catastrophic. This causes the sidewalls to deform more than they should, which causes the tire to overheat, delaminate, and the carcass becomes unusable due to broken cords. As a result, the tire will have to be thrown away. In addition, the edge of the rim can also be damaged.
Punctures are of two types: with and without cord damage. To determine this, it is necessary to remove what pierced it. If the edges of the puncture tightly converge, then the cord is not damaged and it will be possible to repair the tire without removing it from the disk. Otherwise, if the edges do not converge, you will have to disassemble the wheel and make repairs with strengthening the frame from the inside.
Alternatively, in the field and in the absence of a spare wheel, such a puncture can be repaired without removing the tire from the rim, after which you can carefully drive to a tire fitting or garage and make a full repair.
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When repairing, the puncture site should be cleaned and marked. Further, it all depends on what kind of repair kit you have - as a rule, instructions are attached to them. There are sealants that are poured into the tire through the nipple, after which the wheel turns with the puncture down and the substance seals the hole. Repair using a tourniquet or insert is somewhat more complicated, but also more durable: the edges of the hole are polished with a special tool, after which the tourniquet treated with a special compound must be inserted into the tire through a puncture with a special awl, pulled out (not completely) out and cut flush with the surface.
In case of damage to the cord due to a puncture, the tire must be removed from the rim in order to install a reinforced patch with an additional cord on its inner surface. One of the sides of such patches has an adhesive layer that promotes cold vulcanization. After such a repair, wheel balancing will be required. To seal punctures from the inside, patches in the form of a mushroom are also used, with a leg that goes into the puncture. Such patches are also covered with a special adhesive for cold vulcanization.
Cuts or holes , unlike punctures, are not repairable, as they violate the integrity of the frame, which can no longer be strengthened. In addition, breakdowns are always sudden and occur on the go: the tire abruptly loses pressure and before the car comes to a complete stop it manages to make several revolutions “on the rims”, which breaks the cord and destroys the layers. It is not recommended to use such a weakened tire, even if it was possible to repair and strengthen the place of the rupture or cut, in the future.
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Incorrect storage of tires can cause cracks . The danger of such damage is that moisture enters the cord through cracks, which renders the frame unusable. In addition, air can escape through cracks. Unfortunately, cracks are not repairable, and tires with them will not last long: sooner or later they will deform, become covered with swellings due to rusted and torn cord or because of driving with pressure below the recommended one.
Blisters or bulges can appear on a tire for a variety of reasons - it always happens due to a broken cord or delamination in the carcass. In the first case, an obstacle was hit and the impact broke the cord or the cord was cut through with a sharp object. In the second case, there is no damage on or near the hernia, which means that it appeared either due to a factory defect, or due to frequent driving with pressure below the recommended one.
The danger of hernias is that they can explode at any moment and provoke a skid, which will lead to an accident. If there is nothing to replace a tire with a hernia, then it is better to rearrange it to the rear axle and drive very carefully. Like cracks, a hernia cannot be repaired. Sometimes small blisters resulting from impacts or cuts are reinforced with reinforced patches, but there is no guarantee that the tire will not explode. Therefore, tires with hernias are recommended to be replaced immediately.
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Tire sidewalls can be damaged by rubbing against curbs or the asphalt edge when pulling over. If you are prone to such a driving style, then it is recommended to inspect the inner and outer sidewalls from time to time and, if abrasion is found, swap the wheels in order to prevent the cord from being exposed - the rubber thickness on the sidewalls is small (1.
5–3 mm), and it can be rubbed to the frame very quickly.
Often the cause of tire damage can be poor-quality tire fitting , during which the bead ring was damaged. In this case, the tire loses its geometry and “sits” crookedly on the disk - it writes out “eights” during rotation, and lateral vibration appears during the ride. It is impossible to repair such a tire - you need to replace it with a serviceable one as soon as possible before it damages the suspension: rods, hubs and bearings.
You can find out whether you are using tires correctly and what invisible damage they have received by the characteristic wear of the tread, the varieties of which are collected in the table for convenience:
Double side shoulder wear
Driving with lower than recommended tire pressure.
Inflate the tires to the pressure recommended by the automaker (a plate with recommendations is attached in the driver's door opening) and find the cause of the fall: puncture, cracks, hernia, nipple, rust on the disc rim in the place where the tire fits, etc.
Center wear
Tire pressure too high.
Reduce the pressure to the recommended (indicated on the tablet in the driver's doorway)
In the form of rings and furrows
can be found on trailers or rear wheels of pickups and vans due to vibrations and vibrations and vibrations due to vibrations and vibrations bouncing at high speeds.
Changing wheels on a loaded axle to equalize wear, driving with a heavier load.
Chipped wear with cuts
Frequent wheel spin on rocky surfaces.
Move the wheels to a non-driving axle, use the gas pedal more carefully when starting to move.
Photo: Petr Urbanek / Unsplash
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According to history, one day in 1888, English veterinarian and cyclist John Dunlop, tired of jogging through the rural country roads of Britain on molded rubber tires, glued a piece of water hose with a ring and pumped it up with a football pump - this is how the first pneumatic tire appeared.
History is silent when it was pierced for the first time - but most likely it happened in the same year. So the need for tire repair appeared simultaneously with their appearance.
Puncture required cut with burr Over the past 124 years, tire repair technology has been brought to almost perfection.
For several decades (after chamber tires in the vast majority have given way to tubeless ones), the repair procedure has practically not changed.
This procedure is outwardly quite simple - and car owners (as well as part of the workshop workers offering this service) have the false impression that it is not particularly important to follow the prescribed technology exactly - they say, "it will do." And many "specialists" do not really know the technology. And therefore they sincerely believe: why do we need all sorts of "extra" actions? Why take the tire off the rim when you can keep the wheel off the car at all? The client is in a hurry - so you can plug a puncture (and a cut) with a cord, as they say, “on the go”. Does not poison the air, and everyone is happy. By the way, some workshops that promise “repair of punctures and cuts” do not have anything at all, except for cords and an awl for their installation.
In fact, each stage of tire repair technology is, as they say, "written in blood" - like military regulations and safety instructions.
And this is not an exaggeration: what threatens a sudden rupture of a wheel at speed is not worth saying - if people do not die, then they are very lucky ...
We asked our expert, one of the heads of the Russian representative office of the German company "REMA TIP-TOP GmbH" Alexander Akhapkin, to talk about tire repair technology and those common mistakes (or even outright hack work) that car owners have to face.
- Tire repair, in general, comes down to a simple and understandable action: you need to plug the resulting "hole" in it. It sounds simple - like the instructions for skydiving: stepped out of the plane and pulled the ring. Only now, no one jumps with a homemade parachute, especially one packed according to rumors and advice from neighbors. Although the consequences of such a jump and improper tire repair are quite comparable.
So let's go in order: how to do it!
So, the first step: determine the type of damage - is it a puncture or a cut?
The difference, of course, is in size.
Roughly speaking, if no more than 1-2 cord threads are damaged, then this is a puncture. Anything more is a cut.
If it is a cut, it is important to determine its size. Tires have speed categories - and the higher it is, the smaller the amount of damage that can be repaired. For example, it is allowed to repair the tread of a category Q tire (not higher than 160 km/h) if the damage is not more than 20 mm. If the tire category is S (up to 180 km / h), then the size of the permissible damage is not more than 12 mm. And on a category H tire (up to 210 km / h), only a puncture with a diameter of not more than 3 mm can be repaired.
In general, damage limits depending on their location, size and speed category of the tire are given in special tables RemaTipTop, compiled according to the results of tests and tests.
When repairing with a cord, it is necessary use adhesive For example, regarding damage to the shoulder of a category Q tire (up to 160 km/h), repairs are allowed if the “injury” does not exceed a diameter of 8 mm.
And damage to the sidewall can be repaired if it is no more than 35 mm long (along the side height) and up to 20 mm wide.
Second step: what kind of repair is needed? To get there - or capital? The fact is that the most common repair of a puncture with a cord is actually exclusively temporary - just to get to the station and overhaul the tire. And often the car owner asks to fix an expensive tire with a cord, which he puts on an expensive car - and stops there. And at the stations they “go forward” to him: they say, the consequences are at the expense of the customer ...
But even with such a repair, some "masters" manage to cheat. The cord, before placing it in the puncture, is not even smeared with glue. There is a category of cords made of "raw" rubber (they are also called "snotty"). And it is mistakenly believed that glue is not needed for them. No - it's a must!
In addition, when repairing with a cord, it is necessary to form a hole with a burr to enter the repair material.
And this is very often not done (on the principle - and so it will do!). For ten kilometers, maybe it will “get off” ...
Step three: puncture overhaul, after which the tire will reach its physical wear.
Fungi are installed at "vertical" puncturesHere the choice of repair tactics depends on the location and area of damage. If the puncture axis runs perpendicular to the tread surface, then it is preferable to seal it with a fungus. If the puncture axis runs at an angle of more than 12 degrees from the surface, then a plug must be used.
Tire repair fungus is preferred, but if the puncture is at an angle, the fungus head will not be able to fit snugly against the inside of the tire. And over time it can come off - which, of course, is unacceptable.
In principle, all actions of the wizard when using both fungus and cork are the same. The puncture is drilled with a burr with a diameter of 3 mm or 6 mm. The repair area from the inside of the tire is processed with a roughening tool - this is done so that the glue applied to the fungus cap or patch (if cork is used) firmly adheres to the surface of the tire.
But this is followed by an outwardly simple but obligatory operation - the dust formed after drilling and roughening is carefully removed with a brass or coconut brush, and then vacuumed. Moreover, simple “blowing” or brushing with a rag is unacceptable!
Processing with a special solution - required!Then the repair area is smeared with glue (the Germans call it "cement" - that's what it says on the containers with it. In fact, this is a high-tech adhesive system) and a fungus or cork is introduced into the hole - from the inside of the tire! Moreover, until the moment of installation, it is impossible to remove the packaging from the fungus or cork - it can be easily removed when they are introduced into the hole to be sealed. After installing the cork, its excess is cut off - and the repair area is smeared with glue. A patch is applied on top.
Next, the fungus cap or plaster is rolled on. And it remains only to cut off the excess fungal stem or cork from the outside of the tire.
It is very important for temporary repairs with a cord and a major fungus or plug to use materials from only one company! The fact is that the adhesives themselves are spilled: some are based on hydrocarbons, and some are based on trichlorethylene. In addition, adhesives from different companies, even on the same basis, differ in composition. And therefore, in case of confusion, a reliable connection will not work - at best, it will last for some time. But - a little time ...
Fourth step: overhaul of large damage. Let me remind you that damage that exceeds a puncture, but does not exceed the maximum allowable, is considered large. With such damage, the tire is only scrapped - it is no longer possible to achieve the necessary reliability.
The technology of such a repair is simple - but there are no "extra" steps and steps in it. Outside, the place of damage is cut "under the funnel" - part of the damaged rubber is removed, the remains of the cord. From the inside, the place under the patch sticker must be roughened.
Then the dust must be carefully removed after processing with a vacuum cleaner - and this operation must not be skipped!
Further, the “funnel” is treated with a special solution: in the case of using the “Tip Top” technology, this is “MTRThermopress”.
And filled with raw rubber of the same brand as on the tire - heated strips or a special extruder. Raw rubber is treated with the same solution. And immediately closed with insulating foil for subsequent vulcanization.
Please note - do not skip a double treatment with mortar, nor cover the vulcanization site with foil!
A plaster is applied from the inside of the tire to the damaged area. And be sure to roll with a special rolling - this stage also cannot be skipped.
Something about band-aids: don't try to save money by replacing the "branded" band-aid with a piece of rubber! In fact, a patch is a rather complex rubber product reinforced with synthetic or steel threads that coincide with the direction of the tire cord threads.
Patches are produced separately for bias and radial tires. For their correct orientation (it is very important!) Arrows are applied on each of them, which are directed to the sides. You cannot cut the patch "to size" - it cannot be cut at all due to the complex internal construction of the cords. Companies produce several sizes of patches - and you need to choose from them using the Type Top damage table.
There are also inexpensive vulcanizers - for example "Junior"Naturally, the use of patches and adhesives with which they are glued, produced by different companies, is unacceptable - “cement” is applied to the surface of the patch, which needs to be smeared on the surface from the inside of the tire: only in this case the connection will be reliable and durable.
Step five: vulcanization. In order to vulcanize a “sandwich” of raw rubber, a tire and a plaster, it must be heated. But the problem is that vulcanizers, whose power allows you to warm up the entire volume of the repaired area, are expensive and consume a lot of electricity. In addition, they are bulky - the area of \u200b\u200bthe heating plate must exceed the size of any patch. So not every workshop can afford such a vulcanizer.
There is another solution - the so-called "two-stage" repair method. This is when a vulcanizer that is more affordable and consumes less electricity is only the site of damage. Its size is not enough to vulcanize the connection of the patch and the tire.
But it's okay - there is an effect called "cold vulcanization". Glue BL and the coating of the plaster from Tip Top are just capable of such a "cold" vulcanization.
However, if after a one-stage - “hot” - vulcanization, the tire can be mounted on wheels and installed on a car, then after a two-stage one (when only raw rubber warms up, and the patch is glued “cold”), you will have to wait at least 24 hours before mounting. It is these days that constitute the second stage - the time is required for the cold polymerization of the connecting layer to be completed.
