Versa Cross V3
Extreme performance for hard pack to intermediate terrains. Enhanced tread pattern and 8-ply rated radial construction, the Versa Cross V3 is designed for today's high performance UTV and SxS vehicles. View Product
Hurricane & SS212 Wheels - 5 Bolt
Designed specifically for the Polaris RZR PRO R and Turbo R, the Hurricane wheel comes in Matte Black and Bronze, while the SS212 is available in Black with Milled Accents..View Product
Tenacity® XNR
The 10 ply radial Tenacity® High Performance SxS tires with modern, computer-aided, non-directional tread pattern, specifically designed for desert, gravel, rock and sandy terrain View Product
MT911
With deep 1-1/2 inch lugs, a center flex zone, and an aggressive shoulder tread design, the MT911 will propel you through the muddiest trail sections. View Product
Coyote
Specifically designed for high horsepower UTV and SxS vehicles, the 8 ply rated Coyote tire is a radial performance tire that is proudly made in the USA. See it in action
Twister
The first and only directional wheel in the market to showcase consistent forward facing spokes on all four tires. View Product
Utility ATV/SxS/Sport ATV/Golf
See All Wheels
Utility ATV/SxS/Sport ATV/Golf
See All Tires
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ITP sponsors some of the best riders and teams on the Utility ATV/SxS off-road racing circuits. Read the latest updates and see which ones are back on the podium.
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Videos and photos from recent races and events where we conquered the terrains and the podium.
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Most ATV owners will at some time have to repair or change a tire on their bike. Recently, I decided it was time to stop being depended on a tire shop to do this job for me. I set out to find the best way to do this job myself.
I did the research, I did the testing, and have found a method that works quite well. This guide will tell you what you need to know to change an ATV tire by hand.
You can get the job done without breaking the bank on expensive specialist tools. But some basic hand tools are required to be able to do the job safely and efficiently.
Page Contents
Before will get into the actual guide, we’ll have a quick look at what many consider to be the hardest part of changing an ATV tire; breaking the bead.
On the inside of the rim, close to the lip, there is a small bump called the “bead retainer”. This little bump goes all the way around the circumstance of the rim.
The rim has two bead retainers. One small bump on each side. Also notice that the rim has a drop well, the recessed ares to the right on this pic. This part of the design is key to succeeding at mounting the tire.Then, on each edge of the tire, you find the so-called tire bead. This part of the tire contains a strong steel cable that goes all the way around the tire as well, creating a strong steel inforced loop.
Close-up of the tire bead section of the tire.The tire is beaded when the tire bead has been pressed over the bead retainer and rests against the inside of the lip of the rim. When in this position, the tire is prevented from sliding sideways on the rim itself.
So the primary purpose of the bead retainer is to keep the tire in place.
Aggressive riding would otherwise force the tire sideways and it would lose its seal.
It’s not, however, what makes the tire airtight. That’s mostly achieved by the air pressure inside the tires. The air makes sure that the tire is always being pushed outwards against the lip of the rim.
Off-road and trail riding will often involve extreme sideways forces and impacts being inflicted to the wheel. Riding steep side-hills, hitting stumps and landing jumps are often when you are most likely to involuntarily break the bead.
On-road tires will not be faced with challenges like these under normal circumstances.
In addition, off-road tires usually run at a much lower tire pressure. As a result, there is a lot smaller force that pushes the tire outwards against the lip of the rim.
This means the wheel on off-road vehicles has to do a better job at keeping the tire beaded so that you don’t end up with a flat all the time.
To achieve this the tire beads on ATV tires, UTV tires and other off-road tires are extra heavy-duty.
Also, the bead retainer bump is usually a bit bigger.
This is great for keeping the tire seated when riding. But it’s also that much more challenging when you want to break the bead.
There are many ways to break the bead of a tire.
What most of the methods have in common is that they involve some sort of tool. Some of which are quite expensive, while others are almost free.
At the higher end of the scale, you have the several thousand dollars tire changing machines that the tire shops use. These are very effective, but usually way out of budget for the average home mechanic.
At the other end, you have some more-or-less effective, almost free, and sometimes downright dangerous DIY solutions.
Underneath are the most common options, good and bad.
I’ve included my top 3 recommendations which are the ones I consider to be the most effective and least risky.
That’s “least risky”, not risk-free. You can still mess up.
If you want risk free, take the tire to a tire shop.
This may sound brutal, and that’s exactly what it is. The method is completely free, as long as you already own a truck, and don’t break anything in the process.
The idea is that you lay the wheel flat on the ground, and drive your truck over the tire part of the ATV wheel.
While there are several reports of people successfully performing this method, it’s not one that I recommend. There is a great chance of bending or damaging your rim with this method. Its effectiveness is also quite questionable.
Lay the wheel flat on the ground with a small amount of air (about 3-5PSI) still left in the tire. Then place a piece of 2×6 lumber on top of the tire, as close to the rim as possible.
The idea is you slowly drive a truck up the piece of lumber until the weight of the truck breaks the bead.
It may be necessary to reverse, reposition the tire and apply weight several times before the bead will break.
Then back off, refill with 3-5 PSI of air to stiffen the tire and do the other side.
This method is fast and may work fine in most cases. But it’s not something I would suggest for anyone as their go-to method for de-beading a tire.
There is a lot that can go wrong, and no guarantee it will work. If you forget to leave some air there is a great chance of damaging the tire. The piece of lumber fill just slides down the tire sidewall.
And if you leave too much air the tire can blow. Or if you use a car without enough of clearance, you will rip the bumper right off on the way down.
I wanted to find the best, almost free DIY method for breaking the bead on an ATV tire. Not all ATV owners have access to welding machines, so I decided it had to made from wood.
I made 3 different models before I found a design that performed ok.
I had good faith in this first design. The idea, found on a motorcycle forum, is really clever. It should work fine with motorcycle tires and such.
But the ATV bead was too strong. The hardware or the wood itself kept breaking on all three versions I built.
Clever design, but I could not get it strong enough for ATV tires.I ended up with a really simple design. All you need is a few feet of two by four and a couple of relatively strong hinges. The tool has to be mounted securely to a wall or a post as I did
Two pieces of wood and a couple of strong hinges give you a decent bead breaker in no time. Remember to cut the short piece of wood at about a 15-degree angle.This is the most effective and reliable solutions I have found. That is, for those that do not want to spend a lot of money on tools or don’t want to spend a lot of time on complex fabrication.
You’ve probably seen this tool or a variation of it at some point.
You can get them at almost any auto supply or hardware store. They are relatively cheap and works really good on many types of small to medium sized tires.
The tool needs to be bolted to the floor or some other heavy object to be operated effectively. And, it does require some getting used to.
But many users struggle to successfully break the bead of ATV tires with these things. The bead may be seated so well that the tool instead of breaking the bead just slip and slide down the sidewall of the tire.
When this happens you not only risk damaging your tire but will also build up quite the frustration from each failed attempt.
Despite its flaws, I’ve still listed this tool as recommended. Why? Well first off, they are relatively cheap. And when they do work, they are actually quite effective.
More importantly, there is a little trick you can use to make them work a lot more effective on ATV tires.
To prevent the tool from sliding down the sidewall of the tire, you should leave just a little air in the tire. Do not use more than 3-5 PSI. This will allow you to apply a lot more pressure by the bead before the tool wants to start sliding.
Often this is what makes the difference between a successful and a failed attempt.
It’s also a good idea to spray the bead with some soapy water before you try breaking the bead.
But even when applying these tricks, you may find that this tool will struggle to break the bead on the most stubborn ATV tires. If you are looking to change tires on your 10 years old OEM 400EX wheels, you may have to upgrade to the best tool on the list.
A company called BeadBuster sells a tool that clamps onto the rim and forces a wedge in between the rim and the tire. By rotating a bolt you force the bead down and over the bead retainer.
This tool has one main advantage over the tools we have looked at so far.
It does not press down on the thin sidewall of the tire, but directly onto the tire bead.
This reduces any chance of damaging the wheel and tire. The pushing force created by turning the tightening-bolt should be powerful enough to break the bead on almost any ATV tire.
They are the most expensive among the tools I recommend. But if you accept the cost, they are the best option, next to getting a professional tire changing machine.
Another tool that seems to be just as effective as the portable tire changer, are the so-called “Tire Plyers”. These also work by the principle of jamming a wedge in between the rim ant the tire but uses a long handle to lever the wedge down.
It will work on most ATV tires, but some users report breaking the tool because how tight their ATV tire was beaded. This is why I cannot give them a recommended badge by now.
I have not, however, tested these myself. As soon as I get my hands on a pair I will give them a test and consider adding them to the recommended list.
The second most tricky part of changing an ATV tire by hand is mounting it back on the rim again and having it bead properly.
With a couple of tire irons and some soapy water, you should be able to get the tire onto the rim without any big issues. Just take your time and work systematically.
As for beading the tire, this can be a bit tricky on tubeless tires. But in the guide, I’ll show you a simple trick I have learned that should help you succeed.
This guide is for tubeless ATV tires. The procedure for tubed tires is very similar. But then you also need to release the tire-valve and make sure you don’t damage the tube when removing the tire.
I recommend getting a valve stem core removal tool for this part. They are cheap and saves you a lot of time.
While it is possible to deflate the tire just bu pushing the tire valve pin, it will take forever. With a valve stem tool, you can remove the valve stem which will deflate the tire in seconds.
Lefty-loosey, righty-tightly. You know the drill.
Keep two fingers on the valve when unscrewing it so you don’t lose it when the air starts flowing.
Remove the valve stem core, using a valve stem core tool.As soon as the air is out, put the valve stem core back in so you don’t lose it.
Do not over tighten, as the threads on these are quite thin.
Choose between one of the recommended procedures for breaking the tire bead;
The DIY de-beading tool.
Portable tire changing tool
Bead buster
If none of these methods breaks the bead, it’s time to take the wheel to a tire shop.
You need two tire irons or a couple of big screwdrivers to perform this step. It’s also recommended that you get some plastic wheel protectors, or use tire irons with protective plastic so that you won’t damage your rims.
Before you can begin installing the new tire, you need to make sure that the bead of the rim is smooth and clean.
Wash off any dirt, sand or other debris. You may need to use a wire brush to get a good result.
If there is any rust, this has to be removed before you install a new tire. Tools you can use to remove the rust:
Ideally, you want to remove all rust. It’s important that the surface is smooth, so you get a proper airtight seal between the tire and the rim.
After removing the rust you will be left with exposed metal that will start rusting immediately if left untreated. I recommend that you paint it with a quality rust inhibiting paint before installing the tire.
By doing so, you will likely be able to maintain an airtight seal for much longer, and the bike will look a bit healthier.
If your rim and tire are completely free of any damage or nicks by the bead, you may skip this step if you want.
But, as you may know, ATV tires are prone to having tire leak issues by the bead. This happens because the way they are used.
When you ride off-road, sand, dirt and other debris will be caught in the little gap between the rim and tire. This will wear down the paint, creating corrosion issues over time.
There’s also a good chance that you will damage the rim at some point by hitting a rock.
Therefore, I recommend that you always apply a coat of bead sealer on the tire bead before installing the tire. Consider it a cheap insurance against problems down the road.
A good alternative for using purpose made bead sealer is using some silicone.
Be aware that both of these products come with the disadvantage of making it a bit harder to break the bead the next time you need to change the tire.
Spray some soapy water on the bead retainer. Again, this is so that the rubber will slide more easily against the metal rim.
An even better alternative is using a light coat of baby powder on the lip of the rim and tire bead. Give it a try if you struggle to get the new tire back on the rim.
Do not use WD-40 as lube as this may deteriorate rubber over time.
Now it’s time to reinstall the tire.
Now you’ve got the tire onto the rim, but it’s still not completely mounted. You need to re-bead the tire to the rim, using air pressure.
But if you try putting air into the tire as it sits right now you will likely get no result. This is because you have a gap between the tire and the rim that is too big.
The air compressor alone won’t be able to supply enough airflow to get it to seal. The air just escapes.
If you happen to have a specialist tool like a “shock-filler” or similar standing in the corner of your garage, now would be a good time to get it.
But most of us don’t have tools like this. And for the occasional tire job, there is not really a need for one neither. There is a simple trick you can use to get the job done.
No, it’s not the one where you put starter fluid inside rim and light it on fire. While this may work, there is another way that is safer, and just as fast.
All you need is a ratchet strap. If you don’t have one, now’s the time to get one. Use the strongest strap you can find. If the strap breaks, it does so with great force!
All that is left now is to put air back into the tire until it beads. I recommend using a tire-inflator that has a gauge for this part.
Can you change ATV tires at home?
With a few tools and some basic mechanical skills, it’s very doable to change ATV tires at home. But be aware that air under pressure is potentially very dangerous, so necessary precautions must be taken.
How hard is it to change ATV tires?
ATV tires and other off-road tires have stronger beads than on-road tires. This makes them a bit harder to change. But when you know the steps, changing tires is about as hard as replacing brake pads or installing a new exhaust system.
Before choosing an ATV, it is important to determine the purpose of the purchase. It can be recreational riding, hunting or fishing, hiking, housework, as well as extreme riding or sports. The type of ATV, the required engine power and other parameters depend on the tasks. We will tell you more about how to choose an ATV in the article.
Engine size. For recreational riding and light off-road, ATVs with an engine capacity of 400-500 cm³ are suitable. To pass difficult off-road routes, it is advisable to choose a model with a cubic capacity of 600 cm³. nine0003
Transmission. Most ATVs have a CVT transmission. It steplessly changes the gear ratio and smoothly accelerates the equipment. Allows you to safely start on the slopes, and also reduces the risk of an accident on the descents due to the engine braking system. The absence of jerks when switching increases the service life of the nodes.
To tackle tough off-road terrain, the ATV must have a four-wheel drive transmission with a reduction gear and differential lock capability. nine0003
Differential lock. Required so that up to 100% of torque can be transmitted to the wheel. Helps with hanging or slipping.
Forced locking provides better flotation - it can be activated before going off-road.
The electronic lock is activated automatically after the start of slipping.
Engine type. Injection engine is more economical, easier to start in cold weather, does not require periodic adjustments of the fuel supply and is more productive due to the optimal composition of the mixture. Of the advantages of the carburetor - a simple design and the possibility of self-adjustment. nine0003
Wheel size. The larger the wheels of the ATV, the higher the ground clearance and the larger the contact patch with the surface. This increases permeability. Stock rubber can be replaced with another, but you need to take into account - with an increase in the diameter of the wheels, the load on the transmission and suspension increases. In addition, trimming of wings and other improvements may be required.
Seats. There are two types of ATVs with a passenger seat: two-seat and one-and-a-half. Full-fledged doubles have an extended wheelbase (from 1440 mm), while one-and-a-half have the usual wheelbase, like single-seat models.
This affects security. If the second seat is positioned above or behind the rear axle, the passenger increases the chance of the vehicle rolling over, especially on hills. Therefore, for trips in the company you need to buy a fully double model. nine0003
Models with a motorcycle seat and handlebars (ATV) have a shorter wheelbase - which means better geometric cross-country ability. Also, due to their compact dimensions, they need less space for turning and avoiding obstacles. Weight up to 450 kg allows the ATV to fall into the mud less. You can resist the rollover of such an ATV by shifting your body weight.
Automotive Seated Vehicles (SSVs) are usually equipped with a strong frame, doors and roof. The long wheelbase and wide track improve stability and handling at high speeds. Due to this, SSVs are safer than conventional ATVs. Also, this technique is characterized by a large carrying capacity - as a rule, 200-400 kg can be loaded into the body of cargo models.
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Buying a used ATV is risky - for example, it is not always possible to identify equipment after drowning, especially for a beginner, and repairing an engine or transmission may subsequently require more than a third of the purchase price. A new ATV purchased from an authorized dealer is covered by a warranty. In the case of CFMOTO vehicles - 2 years without mileage limitation.
Most ATVs are utility: they have a resource engine with a capacity of 400 cm³ or more, a transmission with a lowering gear, a locking differential, wide luggage platforms, a ground clearance of 250 mm and tires with off-road tread. This is a passable technique that can clear the road with a removable snow plow and deliver heavy loads. Utility ATVs for work, off-road and outdoor recreation. nine0003
Less common ATVs are sports. ATVs of this class are distinguished by a high-speed engine, a chain drive to the rear axle, a rigid long-travel suspension, low ground clearance, a streamlined body and a reinforced frame.
Suitable only for participation in competitions and extreme driving. Sports SSVs tend to be more versatile - usually all-wheel drive, with a reduction gear and a locking differential, comfortable for leisurely movement.
CFMOTO CFORCE 400L EPS . In the brand's lineup, this is the most inexpensive ATV with electric power steering and a 2500 LBS winch as standard. With an engine volume of 400 cm³, it develops a power of 31 hp. High performance at low consumption is provided by the fuel injection system. The patency of the model is improved by an all-wheel drive transmission with a “lower” and the possibility of a forced differential lock, 25-inch off-road tires and a ground clearance of 250 mm. Independent suspensions with 180 mm of travel allow you to move comfortably on rough roads at high speed. nine0003
CFMOTO CFORCE 500 HO . The transmission modes of this model are the same as those of the CFORCE 400L EPS.
Suspensions are independent. The injection engine has a volume of 495 cm³ and develops 38 hp. This is the best result among 500cc CFMOTO ATVs. Suspension travel - 160 mm in front and 200 mm in the rear. Wheels are 26 inches. Ground clearance - 270 mm. There is no electric power steering and winch in the basic configuration, alloy wheels.
CFMOTO UFORCE 1000 EPS . The body of the ATV is equipped with a tipper mechanism to facilitate loading and unloading. A powerful engine and all-wheel drive transmission with a reduction gear and forced differential lock allow you to transport heavy loads even on muddy roads. The roof, doors and windshield protect against rain and dirt from entering the cabin. In the basic configuration there is an electric power steering (EPS), which reduces the load on the hands and allows you to work comfortably all day. nine0003
Load capacity of the body - 350 kg. The salon accommodates three people. The 962.
6 cm³ engine develops 72 hp. The suspension travel is 180 mm in front and 190 mm in the rear. Ground clearance - 265 mm. Wheels are 27 inches.
CFMOTO CFORCE 1000 EPS . Traction of a two-cylinder "liter" engine with a capacity of 75 hp. enough for towing cargo and other household chores. The transmission is all-wheel drive, with a "lower" and forced differential lock. Cross-country ability is improved by 27-inch ANCLA tires and a ground clearance of 300 mm. A total of 60 kg can be loaded onto the cargo platforms - 20 kg on the front and 40 kg on the rear. Management is facilitated by electronic power steering (EPS). nine0003
CFMOTO CFORCE 600 EPS, CFORCE 800 HO EPS and CFORCE 1000 EPS. For comfort on a long journey, they have a multi-level seat with a removable passenger section, which is equipped with a wide backrest with side stops and handles. Electric Power Steering (EPS) absorbs shocks to the steering wheel and makes it easier to control, allowing the driver not to get tired for longer.
The transmission with all-wheel drive, a reduction gear and the possibility of a forced differential lock allows you to continue on your way, even if there is deep mud or ford ahead. The carrying capacity of the luggage areas of ATVs is the same - 20 kg in front and 40 kg in the rear. Suspensions are independent. nine0003
Which model to choose depends on the desired cross-country ability. It is affected by engine power, ground clearance, wheel size and suspension travel.
CFMOTO CFORCE 600 EPS . The 580 cm³ engine develops 41 hp. Clearance - 270 mm. Wheels are 26 inches. Suspension travel is 160mm at the front and 210mm at the rear.
CFMOTO CFORCE 800 HO EPS. 800cc engine power - 65 hp Clearance - 300 mm. Wheel size is 27 inches. The front suspension has a travel of 205 mm, the rear - 195 mm.
CFMOTO CFORCE 1000 EPS . The 962.6 cm³ engine develops 75 hp. Clearance - 300 mm. Wheels are 27 inches.
Suspension travel is 205mm at the front and 195mm at the rear.
CFMOTO UFORCE 1000 EPS . ATV for those who do not have enough cross-country ability and carrying capacity. Equipped with a windshield with wiper, roof and full-length doors. The cabin has space for the driver and two passengers. Comfort is enhanced by heated seats. Up to 350 kg can be loaded into a dump body. The liter engine develops 72 hp. The transmission with all-wheel drive, a reduction gear and a forced differential lock allows you to overcome difficult muddy areas. The tires on this model are 27 inches. Clearance - 265 mm. The independent suspensions have 180mm of travel up front and 190 mm at the back. In the basic configuration there is an electric power steering.
CFMOTO ZFORCE 1000 SPORT EPS . 962.6 cm³ engine with 80 hp. provides acceleration to 120 km / h and allows you to get out of heavy off-road. Cross-country ability is increased by an all-wheel drive transmission with a “lower” and a forced locking differential, as well as 29-inch STAG tires and a ground clearance of 340 mm.
For stability and handling, the model has an extended wheelbase (2285 mm) and a wide track. Also, comfort when driving at high speed is provided by independent suspensions - due to strokes 290 mm front and 395 mm rear wheels keep contact with the road even on large bumps. The control of the ATV is facilitated by the electric power steering (EPS).
For safety, the ZFORCE 1000 SPORT EPS is equipped with five-point seat belts, a chrome-molybdenum steel frame and a reliable dual-circuit hydraulic brake system.
Despite its sporty nature, the ZFORCE 1000 SPORT EPS can also be called a utility ATV - it is comfortable and passable.
It is better to choose an ATV from utility models - they are universal and well suited for tourism, housework, hunting and fishing. Due to the affordable price and reliability, models from the CFMOTO brand are popular. They are distinguished by resource motors of their own production, components from CVTech, Bosch and other well-known brands, as well as a 2-year warranty without mileage limitation.
In the company's line at the time of 2020, there are 11 models. Choose according to your needs and budget.
08/27/2021
The inevitable impact of the brake pads on the disks of the assembly leads to wear of their surfaces. The service life of the brake discs depends on such factors as: the absence of defects in the brake system, the operating conditions of the car, the driving style of its owner. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the mileage using these elements, their quality and type. Dirt and wet road surface, the presence of chemicals on them negatively affects the operation of the brake system of the car. The manufacturer often indicates how much to change the brake discs, right on the product. nine0003
If you want to move safely on the roads, care about maintaining the health and sometimes the life of your car passengers and all road users, you need to change the brake discs in a timely manner.
These parts are involved in the braking process, in the right situation, slowing down the machine and stopping it. Neglecting this factor can cause the vehicle to skid to the side, leading to a serious accident. There are several reasons and situations when you need to change the brake discs. These include:
destruction of the brake system;
vehicle vibration during braking;
caliper jamming.
Parts will continue to deteriorate if not replaced immediately.
When are brake discs replaced? This often happens at the same time as the second brake pad change. But there are times when these parts are destroyed earlier.
Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear axle. To improve braking, they can be replaced with disc ones. This will make the vehicle more manoeuvrable, reduce the risk of accidents and make handling easier. nine0003
Each brake disc has a certain service life.
It is set by the manufacturers of the plant, and how often to change the brake discs depends on:
car mileage;
state of the entire brake system;
braking frequency and severity;
individual characteristics of the vehicle itself.
When purchasing brake discs for your vehicle, the driver must find out how often the brake discs are changed. First of all, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations. On a new product, usually on the end, there is a marking. For example, after the inscription Minimum Thickness, the value of the allowable thickness of the part in millimeters follows. nine0003
To determine when to change the brake disc, it is necessary to measure its thickness with a caliper (preferably a micrometer) after removing the wheel. When the size is less than 2 mm, the product should be replaced, otherwise the braking performance will be significantly reduced.
How often do the brake discs change? With proper operation of vehicles, the resource of such elements is from 80,000 to 150,000 km of run.
The degree of wear is not the only indicator of situations when it is worth changing the brake discs. Severe overheating and subsequent rapid cooling of parts can deform them or lead to the formation of cracks. The presence of such defects is indicated by a characteristic vibration that appears from a strong pressure on the brake pedal. But such vibration can also occur with deformations of the pads and hubs, which are also worth checking. nine0003
Many car owners want to know in advance when to change the brake discs on their car. But the problem is that automakers cannot foresee all the nuances of the road and your driving style, so they do not give accurate recommendations. Many factors influence the wear of parts. These include:
make and model of car - how often brake discs are changed depends on the specific type of transport, for example, on SUVs, such a need may already arise at 60,000 km; nine0003
the material from which the discs are made, these can be: cast iron, steel, carbon fiber, ceramics;
mechanical reasons: product quality, car mileage;
driving style - for lovers of reckless driving on the road, all parts and components of vehicles wear out quickly enough;
recommended brake disc replacement interval;
pavement quality - on roads with bumps and pits, brake system defects appear much faster.
nine0003
An experienced driver can tell when the brake discs need to be replaced. It depends on the degree of wear of the part and some signs of the behavior of vehicles when driving.
Carrying out diagnostics of serviceability with subsequent replacement of the part will be necessary if the following features are noticeable: With intensive braking of the machine, if it enters a puddle, the sharp cooling of the part leads to the formation of cracks on it. nine0003
Brake jamming.
The car vibrates, is poorly controlled when braking, the steering wheel starts to “jump” and the car pulls to the side. If the vibration stops after releasing the brake pedal, you need to choose the earliest time to change the front brake discs.
The brake pedal is too soft and the braking path is winding, which is typical with worn rear discs.
The car brakes jerkily. nine0003
There is a “squealing” of the brakes during operation, this indicates when the rear wheel brake discs need to be changed.
The appearance of extraneous sounds when decelerating
The system locks when the brake pedal is pressed.
In addition, if you find mechanical damage, obvious wear of parts, you must urgently install new ones. No exception - the deformation of disks due to an accident.
Do not know how to understand that you need to change the brake discs. When at least one of the above signs has been detected, it is worth performing a visual diagnosis.
After removing the wheel, determine the wear of the parts. If the pad thickness has become less than 50%, the cylinders begin to move out of the calipers as much as possible. This leads to skew, seizing and leakage of the caliper with leakage of part of the brake fluid and deformation of the disc. How to understand that you need to change the brake discs? This is where expert advice comes in handy. For this you need:
Carefully inspect the working surfaces of the discs, they should not have bumps, small cracks and other defects.
Carefully examine the color of the part, if its surface turns blue, this indicates the oxidation of the product due to its constant overheating.
Determine the presence of cracks, dimples and tubercles, further operation may jam the brake system and costly repairs.
Scroll the disc and check the runout of the working surface with the indicator, it should not be more than 0.05 mm.
When buying a car, it is imperative to check the brake system. This will determine its condition in order to understand when it is time to change the brake discs and avoid trouble when operating vehicles. On one axle, it is necessary to replace two parts at once in order to prevent unbalance of the machine during braking.
The health of the brakes in the car - your safety when driving on the road. Therefore, each driver needs to know how to understand that it is time to change the brake discs in order to perform maintenance on their car in a timely manner.
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It is very important to know at what thickness to change the brake discs. Permissible wear of parts is a parameter not exceeding 1.5 mm. Drum brake discs do not decrease with wear, they increase the diameter inside.
It is impossible to determine exactly how long the brake discs run. But if they are not changed in time, they:
will overheat, bend or break;
can damage the brake caliper piston;
are capable of jamming the wheel.
The first and most noticeable factor in how to understand that it is time to change the brake discs is the sound. Ribbed coating is the cause of the hum. Its frequency will change with the speed of the car. If the car continues to slow down for some time, the brake pads will quickly become unusable.
Normally the front brake discs wear more than the rear discs due to the heavy forces applied to them.
