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It might be a basic thing, but being able to pump up your bike’s tyres is an essential skill for any cyclist.
A lot of you will already know how to do this, but for those who don’t, the different valve types, pumps and, more importantly, what pressure to pump your tyre can be a bit overwhelming. Let us guide you through the process.
Pneumatic tyres were invented to get over the bone-jarring ‘ride-quality’ of solid wheels.
The air inside acts as a spring, providing suspension for you and allowing the tyre to conform to the terrain providing better traction and grip.
Pumping up your tyres is a quick job that can easily improve your enjoyment while riding. Running the wrong tyre pressure will negatively affect the way that your bike rides and can also make your bike more prone to punctures.
If you’ve never repaired a puncture before, you might not have considered how your tyres hold air inside.
The vast majority of bikes will use an inner tube. This is a doughnut shaped airtight tube that sits inside the tyre, with a valve for pumping it up that you see on the outside.
The tyre, when inflated by the tube, is what grips the ground and provides protection from punctures.
You may have heard of tubeless tyres, which forgo a tube and use a special rim and tyre to seal air without the need for a tube. These usually require tubeless sealant inside, which is a liquid that plugs any points where air is escaping.
Tubeless tyres are more commonly found in mountain biking, but the technology is migrating to road bikes.
The tubeless sealant also plugs punctures, and no tube means a much lower risk of pinch flats – that’s when your inner tube is pinched by the rim, causing a puncture.
Tubeless tyres can, therefore, be run at lower pressures than those with an inner tube setup, for improved comfort, speed and traction.
At the very high end, you also get tubular tyres. This is essentially a tyre with the tube sewn into it, but they are rarely seen or used outside of professional racing.
Inflating your tyres to the correct pressure is an essential part of bike maintenance.Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Running your tyres at either too high or too low a pressure can be potentially dangerous, as well as negatively impact the handling of your bike.
We’ll discuss later what the correct pressure is, but for the moment let’s look at possible problems.
An under-inflated tyre will rob your efficiency and leave you susceptible to annoying punctures.Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
If you run your tyres at too low a pressure, the tyre can wear prematurely. Excessive flexing in the sidewall can lead to the casing cracking and the tyre becoming fragile.
This could eventually lead to a blowout.
Excessively low pressures also increase your susceptibility to punctures and may even result in your tyres literally rolling off the rim if you corner at speed (the pressure inside is what holds your tyre on the rim).
Damage can also be caused if the tyre deflects all the way down to the rim. This can result in dents or cracking, potentially compromising your wheel and resulting in an expensive replacement.
Conversely, running too high a pressure could result in your tyre blowing off the rim with explosive consequences. That pressure can also squeeze the wheel because if it’s too high the compressive force on the wheel can be too high.
In terms of handling, a low pressure can result in compromised handling with the tyre squirming under load. Your bike will feel difficult to control, slow and sluggish.
On the other hand, too high pressure can result in reduced grip and a harsh ride, leading to fatigue and in turn impacting handling.
There are two likely reasons why your tyre is flat. Either you have a puncture or your tyre has just deflated over time.
If you have a puncture, we’ve put together a comprehensive guide on how to fix a puncture.
Glueless patches are great for a quick fix, while a more traditional kit is a versatile option when you have a bit more time.
All tyre systems will leak air slowly because tubes aren’t completely airtight. For example, standard butyl tubes hold air fairly well compared to lightweight latex tubes, which leak comparatively quicker. Even tubeless setups will slowly leak air.
Old tubes will leak more air than new ones, so if yours haven’t been replaced in a while they may be worth looking at. Less likely, but also a possibility (especially on older tubes), is that the valve is no longer sealing properly.
The best way to check what’s going on is to try pumping up the tyre. If it holds air then there’s likely nothing more you need to do.
If it doesn’t, then you likely have a puncture.
If it leaks air slowly overnight, either you have a slow puncture or simply an old tube that needs replacing.
The first thing you’ll need to know before pumping up your tyre is what valve type is fitted.
The valve is the key part that keeps air in the tyre, but also lets you inflate (or deflate) the tyre.
The Schrader valve is also used for car tyres.Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Schrader valves are more common on lower-end bikes and, in the past, mountain bikes. The same valves are used on car tyres.
The valve assembly is a hollow tube with a sprung valve that closes automatically and screws into the external body. A pin extends up from the valve and is usually flush with the end of the outer tube. This pin can be depressed to let air out.
The dust cap on Schrader valves is an important part of the design that can help fully seal the valve if it is not completely air-tight.
It essentially provides a secondary ‘backup’ seal.
The sprung design of the valve is a little susceptible to contamination from dirt or grit so it’s important to protect it too.
Presta valves such as this one are longer and narrower than the Schrader type valve.Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
You will only find Presta valves on bicycles.
They originated on road bikes where the narrower valve (6mm vs 8mm for a Schrader) meant a smaller valve hole (typically the weakest part of a rim) on narrow road wheels.
Nowadays they are seen on both mountain bikes and road bikes. Rather than use a spring, the valve is secured with a nut that holds it closed, though the valve itself is sealed ‘automatically’ when pressure inside the tyre pushes it shut.
With a Schrader valve, you can simply press the pin to release air, but with a Presta valve you first have to unscrew the little locknut. Don’t worry about the nut coming off the end of the valve body because the threads are peened to stop that happening.
There seems to be a myth that Presta valves deal with high pressures better – this probably isn’t true considering there are Schrader valves that can withstand many hundreds of psi (way more than you’ll ever need in your tyre).
Presta valves are definitely a little more delicate than Schrader valves, though. It’s quite easy to knock the threaded internal valve body and bend or break it, so a bit more care needs to be taken. However, valve cores are easily replaceable with standard tools.
In comparison, on Schrader valves, this requires a proprietary tool.
Presta valves may come with a lockring that secures the valve body against the rim. This can make them a little easier to inflate. The dust cap is not essential to seal it, but helps keep the valve clean.
The only other type of valve you may come across is a Dunlop (also known as Woods) valve. This has a similar base diameter to a Schrader valve, but can be inflated with the same pump fitting as a Presta valve.
These are very popular on town/upright bikes in Europe and elsewhere in the world, but you’re very unlikely to come across one in the UK or in the US.
A tubeless valve can be difficult to distinguish from a regular Presta valve.Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Valves for tubeless setups are attached directly to the rim, rather than being part of an inner tube.
More often than not, they are Presta-type, but Schrader ones do exist.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
If you’ve got a Schrader type valve, such as the one shown above, then the first thing you need to do is remove the dust cap (if there is one in place).
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Simply unscrew the cap anticlockwise to reveal the valve.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Now attach the head of your pump.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Inflate the tyre to a value between the minimum and maximum stated on the tyre sidewall and remove the pump.
You’re done!
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
If your bicycle has a Presta type valve such as this one then you will first have to remove the plastic valve cap (if fitted).
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
The plastic cap will reveal another threaded cap to the valve.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Unscrew the thread but be careful to not damage it in the process.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Now attach the head of your chosen pump to the open valve and inflate the tyre to a pressure that’s between the minimum and maximum stated on the tyre’s sidewall.
Inflate the tyre to the desired pressure and remove the pump.
Oli Woodman / Immediate Media
Finally, close the valve by screwing it clockwise and reinstall the plastic valve cap.
If you have a tubeless setup, or tubes setup with sealant inside, then it’s worth taking a few extra steps to avoid gunking up your pump.
Turn the wheels so the valves are at the bottom and leave for a few minutes so any sealant can drain out.
Turn the wheels so the valves are at the top and pump up your tyres. The same goes when deflating tyres to prevent goop spraying everywhere.
We’d say that, if you can only own just one type of pump, get a track pump for home use because it’s efficient, quick and easy to use.
However, there’s no doubt that having an additional mini-pump for when you’re out on the road is rather useful – otherwise you risk being stranded at the roadside in the event of getting a puncture.
We’ve already got a guide on choosing the best bike pump for your needs, but here a few recommendations for you to consider.
The sky’s the limit with track pumps. They basically all do the same job, some with a more premium feel than others.
From a budget Park Tool PFP8 to the absurdly expensive Silca Pista Plus, you’ll be able to find something that suits your needs.
Mini pumps work but are a lot more frustrating to use. Again, there are lots of options available from mini track-style pumps to tiny pumps that will fit in a jersey pocket. We tend to prefer mini pumps with a hose because that reduces stress (and potential damage) on the valve.
Two of our favourites have been the Truflo TIO Road and the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP.
One other possibility for your inflation needs is a CO2 inflator. These use compressed carbon dioxide in a small cartridge to inflate or top up a tyre really quickly. Not something you would want to use on a regular basis, but perfect for an emergency repair.
The first thing to do is to attach your pump to the valve.
Remove the valve cap, and regardless of valve type, we find it’s good to release just a little hiss of air to ensure the valve isn’t stuck and opens and closes cleanly.
Either thread-on the chuck or push it on and lock it.
If your tyre is completely flat it may initially be a bit of a struggle to fit the chuck because the valve has a tendency to push back into the rim. Simply hold the valve from behind by pushing on the outside of the tyre so that you can lock the chuck on properly.
The lockring on Presta valves (if fitted) can also help, preventing the valve from disappearing by holding it in place for you.
The connection to the valve should be air-tight. A little escaping air is normal when attaching the pump, but shouldn’t continue for long. If it does, remove and reattach the chuck. If it continues to be a problem it may be worth checking the rubber seal in the chuck to see if it is worn out and needs replacing.
Remember to be gentle with the valves – they’re delicate. That’s especially the case if you’re using a mini pump without a hose.
Make sure to brace the pump with your hand wrapped around the spokes or tyre to avoid transferring too much of the pumping force to the valve, which could lead to damage.
When you start pumping make sure to use the full stroke of the pump. You’ll find that the majority of the stroke is taken up compressing the air to the point where it will then be pushed into the tyre.
If you don’t use the whole length of the pump, the air won’t be pushed out of the bottom – you need to generate overpressure in order to move the air from the pump to the tyre. Instead, you’ll just end up with the shaft bobbing around doing nothing.
With a track pump, don’t just use your arms, use your body weight for the downstroke and pumping will become a lot easier.
You may sometimes find that the pump doesn’t seem to hold pressure, especially when inflating the tyre from completely flat. This may especially be the case with an older pump where seals may be slightly sticky.
We find it helps to pump vigorously initially, to generate enough back-pressure (i.e. pushing back from the tyre side) in the system to ensure that valves are actuated properly and seal up, in turn inflating the tyre.
Keep on going until you get the right pressure.
When removing the chuck from the valve there is usually an audible hiss of air being lost. This is usually from the pump rather than the valve side. Pressured air in the hose and chuck is just escaping.
A pump gets the air in your tyre. The operating principle is simple; you increase the pressure inside the pump until it exceeds that inside the tyre. This ‘overpressure’ forces air into the tyre, increasing its pressure too.
A pump is just a manually actuated piston. On a pump’s downstroke, a check valve (allows air-flow in one direction) seals the piston chamber, resulting in air being pressurised as the pump is compressed. That pressure increases until it exceeds that inside the tyre.
At this point, a second one-way valve will allow air to flow from the pressurised pump chamber into the tyre. You extend the pump again, the check valve opens to refill the chamber with air and you repeat the process.
To prevent the pressure in the tyre leaking back out, the second check valve at the base of the pump closes. If it wasn’t there, the pump would just shoot open again.
Presta valves will close automatically, but the sprung Schrader valves are usually held open by a pin in the pump valve attachment (this means you don’t need any extra effort when pumping to overcome the pressure exerted by the spring.)
The head of the pump is also known as the chuck.Oliver Woodman / Immediate Media
The chuck is the part that attaches the pump to the valve and forms an airtight seal over the valve. One of two designs exist: threaded or push-on with a locking lever. Most pumps nowadays are also adaptable to either Schrader or Presta valves.
They will either feature two different attachment points or an adjustable chuck that can be changed to suit both types.
For larger pumps (and many mini-pumps too) the chuck is often on a hose, preventing your pumping force from damaging the valve.
Pumps will often include a pressure gauge to check the pressure inside your tyre.
The right tyre pressure is perhaps one of the most contentious subjects, but there are definitely a few guidelines that you can use.
As a general rule, your tyre should be solid enough to prevent the tyre deflecting all the way to the rim, though compliant enough to provide some suspension – after all, the beauty of a pneumatic tyre is that you don’t have to have a bone-jarringly hard ride.
Most tyres will have a minimum and maximum pressure rating printed on the side. It’s advisable not to go under or over those limits because manufacturers have specified them for a reason. Of course, that means there’s still a lot of room to play with pressure and what works for you.
For mountain bikes the problem is relatively easier, with the usual aim being to improve traction, cornering and shock absorption.
As a general rule, riders try to run as low a pressure as possible without having it so soft that the tyre squirms under cornering load or deflects enough for damage to occur to the rim.
For road bikes it becomes a little more complicated because along with traction and comfort, rolling resistance (how efficiently a tyre rolls) is a major consideration as well.
Contrary to what many assume, the new school of thought seems to suggest that harder is not necessarily faster.
On all but the smoothest of surfaces, a hard tyre will not have as much suspension, and instead of the tyre being able to deflect and conform to irregularities – keeping the bike moving forward – you will get bounced around.
On all but the flattest of surfaces softer tyre pressures can provide more comfort and be more efficient.
A tyre pressure drop chart.Frank Berto (Bicycle Quarterly)
The most comprehensive research into this was underatken by Frank Berto, who put together a tyre pressure inflation chart.
This testing determined that a 20 per cent tyre drop (the amount the tyre compresses when load is applied, measured by the height from the ground to the rim) was the optimum balance.
Incidentally, some manufacturers recommend a similar level of tyre drop, though the figure is open to some debate.
This value does provide a good starting point to experiment with tyre pressures. The chart looks at individual wheel load – i.e. your and your bike’s weight on each wheel (40 per cent front / 60 per cent rear is a good starting point) – and calculates the pressure for each accordingly.
You need not always get your pump/gauge out to check for tyre pressure.BikeRadar / Immediate Media
It’s a good idea to check your tyres before each ride. Usually, that just involves giving them a squeeze by hand to check the pressure.
No, it’s not super accurate, but you’ll quickly get a feel for the pressure in your tyres and be able to tell whether they need pumping up or not.
If you start to get really nerdy about it, you may end up investing in a pressure gauge, which can read the pressures in your tyres very accurately.
That’s especially helpful for mountain bikes where a few psi can make a large difference to handling and grip, but equally applicable on a road bike to find the exact pressure that works for you.
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A bike pump is one of the most reliable repair tools a bike owner should have.
It is your go-to device when the bike tires get flattened, and you need to inflate air into the tires. Most of the bike pumps today are operated manually and require some basic repair skills.
As a responsible cyclist, it is essential that you know how to use a bike pump in order not to damage your tires. Thus, we prepared a simple guide to teach you how to operate a bike pump properly to keep your bike tires full and always ready for road adventures.
It includes opening the valve, attaching the head and the bike valve, putting in the right pressure, and so much more. For details, read on as we show you how you inflate your tires successfully.
Table of Contents
Bicycle pumps are manually operated devices responsible for inflating your tires.
They are normally lightweight and capable of filling air into the tires in a matter of minutes. Most pumps are easy to operate, as well.
Bike pumps compress air by pressing the air down the tube of the pump using a valve. The Presta valve will open because of the air pressure, and let the air fill-up the tire. Once the air inside the tire gets full, the valve will instantly shut off to prevent air from coming out.
Some pumps are straightforward to operate, wherein you get a display of the tire pressure being enforced on the tires. Once you achieve the right amount of air and pressure, you can easily remove the pump valve from the tire. You can either use Presta valves or Schrader valves, which are both available in the market.
In order to get the most out of your road bike pump, it is important to consider the following factors when choosing a pump:
Pressure
The number one factor that you should always look at is the pressure needed by your tires.
It is vital to assess what type of bike you have and the pressure it needs to get inflated. Mountain bikes only require less than 40psi for air pressure. Do not go beyond this standard psi in order not to give too much volume output to your tires.
Gauge accuracy
Looking for a gauge accuracy in a bike pump is equally important. It helps you supply the right amount of pressure your tire needs. Using a readable gauge, you can determine whether you are putting high pressure and low pressure into the tires. In this way, it will help prevent damaging your tires in the long run.
Pump heads and valves
Bike pumps today require the use of the Presta valves and Schrader valves. So it would be great if you know what kind of valve your tire needs to prevent it from being damaged. There are different styles of valve heads that you should consider before getting one.
You can choose the twin-valve head, smart head, and thread-on style head.
The twin-valve head basically has two separate slots for either kind of valve. The smart head is more versatile to use on one side because this type of valve can adjust automatically based on the valve size. Lastly, the thread-on style is customizable, where you need to flip and change it depending on the valve requirement.
Volume output
Of course, the volume output should always depend on what kind of bike you have. Getting a high-volume pump means you need not put in too many strokes to hit the right pressure for your tire. If you own a mountain bike, you need to get a type of pump with greater volume to meet its tire needs. For tubeless tires, huge volume output is required to put in the tire pressure without using a compressor.
Size
Size is another factor that you should not miss when choosing a bike pump. If you are only using it for bicycles, choose a hand pump so you can manually control the pressure you put into the tire.
Do not get a bike with the smallest size, though it can inflate your tire eventually; and you would exert more time, and energy with it.
Weight
Most bike pumps are lightweight. But if you want a heavy-duty and more sturdy kind, you can also find some in the market. They won’t topple over and keep the pump more stable. Nevertheless, lightweight pumps are more expensive than heavier ones. They are made of aluminum or carbon fiber materials to ensure their durability in spite of their lightweights.
Construction
Bicycle pumps come at different construction and prices. Depending on the material used, the pricing will directly vary. Metal is one of the most durable materials a manufacturer can use for a bike pump. If the pump contains more metal, meaning the price can be higher, as well.
With metal construction, the product is more solid, steady, and long-lasting.
Serviceability
If you want to invest in high-quality pumps, you take into account serviceability.
Meaning, when it gets damaged, you can easily look for service centers that can repair it. Also, the components and spares should be readily available on the market.
Once you already considered these factors for getting the right bike pump, here are the easy to follow steps on how to pump bike tire:
In the next section, we will guide you through every detailed bike pump step.
There are different bicycle pumps available today, including the manual operated bike pump, hand pump, floor pump, or tube pump.
You can either use the Presta valve or the Schrader valve. But, remember no matter what type of pump you choose, the most important consideration is its compatibility with your tire valves. As if you use a bike pump that is not really compatible with your tire valves, you can not get most out of your bike pump.
To know the kind of valve your bike requires, start inspecting your tires, and assess the valve’s physical attributes. As mentioned before, there are two types of valves, which are Presta valves or Schrader valves. So, if you find the valve narrow and a bit tall, it is definitely a Presta valve. In case you see a wider black valve, then it is a Schrader valve.
Assisting the proper type of valve and choosing the right pump for it can make a huge difference. You can avoid damaging your tire, and inflating your bike tire can be so much easier. In case you do not have the right pump with the correct head, you can opt to use an adapter normally available on the market.
As we have mentioned earlier, bicycle pumps provide high pressure which can certainly damage your bike tires.
It is vital that you assess your bike tire first, and how much pressure it can hold. Of course, large bikes can accommodate more tire pressure than smaller ones. But, it would not require a bike pump that can input pressure similar to car tires.
Moreover, identify the proper pressure range your tire needs to be inflated. In this way, you can avoid over-inflation, which would directly damage the tires. It is essential to check the sidewall of your tire where you can see the recommended PSI range for your tires.
In most cases, the regular road bikes need 80psi – 130 psi, while mountain bikes need 25 psi – 35 psi.
To protect your bike from dirt and unnecessary elements, manufacturers put a dust cap on the bike valve. Before inflating your bike, ensure that no dust cap or plastic cap is surrounding it. If you find one, you can rotate it counterclockwise, unscrew and remove it from the valve.
If the bike has a Presta valve, open the valve so you can attach a bike pump for inflation.
Unlock the nuts at the top of the valve, and unscrew and open the valve for pumping bike tires. If you find it hard to unlock, you can use pliers to help you with the process. A pair of pliers can slacken the nut making it easier for you to open the Presta valve.
After opening the valve, you can now start attaching the pump head to the valve to start inflating the tire. To do this, you should press the pump’s nozzle in a downward direction so it can join steadily to fit the valve. After which, place the nozzle firmly by lifting the pump’s lever to a 90-degree angle.
Ensure that you pull up the lever properly so that no air pressure can pass from the tire. You can determine that the pump head is correctly in place when there is no amount of air or tire pressure seeping into the valve.
In case you observe that the tire is not expanding, you have attached the pump head incorrectly into the valve. You have to repeat the process, and remove the head onto the valve and reattach it again.
Once you observe that the valve and pump head are fitted well, you can now continue pumping up bicycle tires. To make the fit more durable, use your hand to hold the head steadily on the valve. This will ensure that the attachment is secure, and will not fall off in case you add more pressure while using the bike pump.
You can pump the bicycle tire steadily, and touch the tire from time to time to check whether the air pressure is of the right amount.
Once you are sure that the valve and pump head is fixed and stable, you can now apply the maximum pressure for your tire. Remember that you have to refer to the right psi needed by looking at the tire’s sidewall.
If your bike pump has gauge accuracy, check whether you are pumping in the right amount of pressure. Using the pressure gauge, you can identify the amount of air going into the tire, and how much more is needed to inflate it fully.
In case your bike pump lacks that pressure gauge, use your thumb to determine whether the tire is fully inflated. You just need to grip the tire from both edges, squeeze it, and check whether it already achieved the right firmness. The level of stiffness will help you know that you completed inflating your bike tire.
You can now remove the head once you achieve the right pressure, and your tire is completely inflated. To do this, you can flip the switch on the pump’s head, then loosen the nozzle, and fully remove it.
After, you can now tighten the locking nut in a clockwise direction to ensure that no air will slip from the tire. Ensure that the lock nut is secure, and put the dust cap again onto the valve.
If you want to know whether you successfully inflate your tire, you can check your bike wheels by riding it. Once you can ride comfortably and do not feel any off vibe on your wheels, you have fully inflated your bike property.
Tires tend to lose air, especially when you use them repeatedly. Luckily, there is an available bike pump out there which you can buy and inflate your tires on your own. Using a bike pump may be straightforward, and seems to be simple, but if you do it wrong, you might heavily damage your bike tires.
Thus, we prepared this guide to give you the most basic knowledge about using a bike pump successfully. We keep the steps simple and easy to follow, as well. Nevertheless, may you find this guide helpful without seeking professional help in inflating your tires.
So if you found this guide on how to use a bike pump helpful, feel free to share it with everyone. In case you have any questions or suggestions, you can comment below and leave something for our discussion.
Furthermore, in case the bike pump is not available, you can learn more about our guide for more how to pump a bike tire without a pump. And other relevant tips that you might be interested in, such as measuring, and changing tires.
Henry Speciale
“Bike commuting should be the trend for the next few years, and it is a convenient and eco-friendly way for us to travel. And we are here to make it a bit less troublesome for people who want to maintain their vehicle for a long time. So, the content I expect to put out here is offering help for bikers who are facing issues with parts of their bikes once in a while. Let’s have fun and protect the environment together!”
Hello! My name is Darina, I am an illustrator and graphic designer, I recently got into cycling around the city and now I am writing about my experience in It’s my!bike.
When I was 10 years old, I rode a bike in the country - it was my only and favorite transport to fly through the fields and get to friends, rush out of a scary abandoned house or quickly drive under the oars of an owl in the dark home.
Probably like many.
After that, for 12 whole years I hardly used a bicycle (but secretly dreamed of going to the market and to work with a wicker basket and a skirt) - in the center I was scared to ride next to cars, and on the sidewalks it was unbearably slow. Everything changed when I fell in love, and my friend, now husband, gave me a blue road bike and for the first week accompanied me on all my routes - in the morning to work, in the evening for salsa, on weekends to explore the markets and bike paths, because I was the only one it's so scary to drive next to honking cars! When I got used to it and felt right on the road, just like the driver of the car, I realized that there is no better transport, and now I’m talking about how life changes when you ride a bike (leave for lunch from work in the nearest park, overtake a traffic jam , get Pavlova's posture, improve concentration). In addition, I was so impressed with Copenhagen, which has more bicycles than pigeons, that I would like Russia to be the same.
Every day I choose a bike and tell you why.
When I ride my bike, it rarely happens that the wheels are flat and I need to pump them up: every morning I go out with a pump to the yard where my bike lives and check the elasticity of the wheels. I check them ingenuously - I feel the tire around the entire circumference and if somewhere it bends, then it needs to be brought into tone.
Inflating a wheel with a hand pump is not difficult, and even mischievous - you immediately remember how in the country before you drive away for the whole day you quickly pump up your bike and fly out of the yard on it like a bullet.
I do like this:
I scroll the wheel so that the nipple (the same process on the wheel) is on the side. Almost all modern pumps have two holes - a larger one and a smaller one for two types of nipples, I think you can see which one suits you.
I unscrew the nipple cap, put the pump on it, lower the pump lever down and fill the tire with air (almost morning exercises are obtained, especially if you pump not only with your hands, but with your whole body weight).
Now snap the lever back, remove the pump and screw the cap on the nipple. Finally, you can go about your business.
I try to find a balance in this matter - if I don’t pump it up, then it’s hard to drive, and I’m angry that the wheel is almost dragging on the asphalt, I have to put a lot of effort, and the wheel is worn out. If you pump over, then the tire may burst from the glass that comes across or when jumping onto the curb. There is no ideal recipe, as in happiness, with inflating the wheels, but the maximum to which tires can be inflated is written on the side of the wheels. Most pumps have a pressure gauge and it is better to choose a pump with one, because there you will see exactly how much more you need to pump up the wheel for an easy ride.
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| Gauge pumps are available on the It’s my!bike website | |
If you don’t carry a pump with you, like me, and the tire has flattened, then you can always ask a passing cyclist for a pump, after all, the amateur community led one of the friendliest in the world, or go to a car repair shop where you will pump up a flat tire.
It’s even more interesting to visit a bike workshop/bike shop, for example, it’s my!bike, if you came to Berthold by bike in St. Petersburg or to the swing at Mayakovskaya in Moscow. Easy road and strong wheels!
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CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE:
Woods valve No special effort is required to properly inflate bicycle tires. The only thing you need is the right tools. Using these techniques, you can easily find your valve type and choose the pump that is exactly right for your bike model, respectively, and learn how to properly inflate your tires.
Related: How to choose a bicycle pump?
1. Schrader valve, sometimes you can see the name American valve or automobile valve. The stem in this type of valve is surrounded by threads, you just need to press down on the stem with your thumbnail or other object such as a pen cap. If we compare Schrader valves with other types, then it is short and wide in diameter. Most often they can be found on cars, inexpensive or mountain bikes. To open this type of valve, you just need to unscrew the rubber plug.
2. Determine the recommended tire pressure for your bike. Often this indicator is located on the sidewall of the tire. Be vigilant and watch the pressure when you inflate your tires. It is recommended not to bring the readings to the lower line, as well as to the highest.
3. Position the pump. If you don't have your own yet, use the pump at the gas station, or borrow one from a friend.
4. Pump up the chamber. To do this, unscrew the rubber cap on the top of the valve and hide somewhere so as not to lose it.
5.
To deflate a tire with a Schrader valve, simply press the springy valve stem with your fingernail or other small object until all air is expelled.
1. French valve (Presta) aka Sclaverand is commonly found on high performance road bikes. Compared to a Schrader valve, this one is longer and narrower in diameter, and has an outer stem that is capped instead of being surrounded by a core.
2. Valve opening. Unscrew the dust cap to open the Presta valve. Then you need to loosen the brass cap on the valve stem a little, it will not be able to come out completely, and you will have to lift it up a little. If you want to check if the cap is loose, you just need to press on the valve stem, and if you hear that the air comes out in sharp gusts, then this is a sign that you can stop.
3. Calculate the recommended tire pressure for the bike. This is usually a relief mark that is located on the sidewall of the tire.
Most often, these readings are written in bars or PSI. Do not let the pressure go to the bottom line, and also to the highest, which exceeds the maximum.
4. Pump installation. You can use the pumps of any gas station stations or take them from friends. And as an option - buy in the store "everything for bicycles".
5. Inflate tires. Open the Presta valve by unscrewing the dust cap and loosening the smaller brass cap.
6. To deflate a tire with a Presta valve, open the brass cap and press the springy valve stem until all air is expelled.
