So, you have a flat tire or one that’s leaking air. It’s not the end of the world. Luckily there are safe and cost-effective ways to properly repair most tire punctures. The purpose of this article is to show you the difference between a safe, permanent repair and a temporary string, plug or patch repair.
According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHSTA) and the Tire Industry Association (TIA), the only method to properly repair a tire puncture is to fill the injury with a repair stem and back the stem with a repair patch. This is commonly known as a combination repair or a patch/plug repair.
Patch/plug repairs are most often performed using a one-piece repair unit that combines the repair stem and cap (or patch) into one unit. However, special circumstances may require the use of a two-piece combination repair (ex. If the angle of the puncture exceeds 35 degrees). The repair is then permanently bonded to the inside of tire and through the injury channel using a cold, chemical vulcanizing process.
The repair essentially becomes part of the tire, creating an air-tight seal that keeps air in and moisture and contaminants out (more on this procedure below).
Emergency roadside plug repairs are NOT intended to be a permanent tire repair. Plugs and string repairs are designed to get you back up and rolling long enough to get home or to the nearest service center to perform a proper tire repair.
The common misconception with plug and string repairs is that because they hold air, they are safe to use. While it is true that many plug repairs do a great job of keeping air in the tire, that’s only part of the equation. Because they’re not completely sealing the injury, plug repairs may allow air and moisture to penetrate the body of the tire. Over time, this could lead to a dangerous (or even deadly) blowout.
A Patch-Only Tire Repair Leaves Your Tire Susceptible to DamageA tire repair that uses only a patch is also NOT considered proper or safe.
A properly installed patch will do a great job of allowing the tire to hold air. However, similarly to the plug-only repair, the patch does not fill the injury channel. Therefore, air and moisture could seep into the tire from the tread surface and eventually damage the tire.
Only a proper patch/plug repair completely seals the puncture from inside the tire and through the entire injury channel. There are a few extra steps necessary to perform a proper tire repair in accordance with industry guidelines. We’ve developed a simple acronym to help organize and remember the steps: R.E.P.A.I.R.
It can also be determined if the puncture did any significant damage to the cords or belts.
The over-buffed area of the inner liner is treated with a thin layer of rubber sealant, and the excess repair is trimmed to approximately ¼” above the tread surface.There are a number of factors that may determine whether or not your tire is safe to repair. These factors fall into three main categories:
Excessive wear, casing separation, impact damage and other conditions may make it unsafe to properly repair your tire. For a more comprehensive list of repairable vs. non-repairable conditions visit our blog Can Your Tire Be Repaired?The occasional flat or leaky tire is an unavoidable part of life. But, taking shortcuts to repair it can be dangerous to you and your passengers. Take the time and do the research to do the job right and/or find a reputable tire repair shop trained in proper tire repair procedure.
In a previous blog, we went through each of the steps necessary to change a flat tire. But what do you do when you open the trunk and find that your spare is flat, too? Or what if in a series of unfortunate events, your spare is punctured shortly after you put it on?
No matter what situation you may find yourself in, it's never a bad idea to have another trick up your sleeve; another way to fix a flat tire when a spare isn't available.
Fortunately, there are two methods that are simple, cheap, and effective. Read on as we show you what to do if you have a flat and no spare!
Imagine this: You're on a road trip with the family (and the dog) and you stop at the gas station for a much-needed snack. As you walk back to the car, hotdog in hand, you notice something strange on your front tire - it's the dreaded silvery glimmer of a nail. What's more, the tire looks like it's deflating and sooner rather than later, you'll have a full-blow flat.
As the children grow restless and the dog loses its patience, you think through your options. Unfortunately, the spare tire isn't one of them - it's flat, too. Now what? In most cases, roadside assistance would be the best option, but the whole family can't ride in the tow truck to the tire shop and you don't want to leave them with the dog in the parking lot.
Fortunately, you read a blog somewhere that helped you put together a roadside emergency kit.
You fish it out of the vehicle and sift through it to find exactly what you need to get back on the road.
So, what was it you found in your kit that saved the day? There are two main tools you can use to temporarily fix your flat without changing the tire completely (assuming your tire isn't totally ruined): puncture sealant and a tire patch kit.
Regardless of which tool you have on hand, the first step is locating the puncture site. Of course, this won't be particularly difficult if you ran over something like a nail, but finding a hole in a punctured tire isn't always so easy. To locate the source of the leak, try the following:
Visual inspection. First, you can look over the tire to try and find any obvious punctures or foreign objects (like nails).
Listen. If you don't see anything right away, bring your ear close to the tire and listen for a faint hissing sound.
Feel. Sometimes, an otherwise invisible puncture can be found by holding your hand just above the tire to feel for the leaking air.
Soap and water. If all else fails, try the soap and water method. Fill a bucket with water and add dish soap. Then, carefully coat the outside of the tire until it is covered in suds, either by hand or a spray bottle if you have one. Wait for the leaking air to create a small frothy patch of bubbles - you've found the leak! Mark it and then wash the soapy water away.
Of course, if you find yourself with a flat on the side of the road, you may not have soap, water, and a bucket on hand. However, if you're near a gas station or grocery store, you may be in luck. All you need is a water bottle (or any plastic bottle) and hand soap from a restroom. Simply add the soap to the water in the bottle, shake it up, and gently pour and spread it over your tire!
Now that you've found the leak, let's look at the two most common ways you can fix it.
There are a number of different products on the market that can seal a puncture, and they fall into two main groups. Some brands are a gel-like substance that hardens around the puncture. These products can work well, but they usually require other tools to effectively apply and can be quite messy.
The more common puncture sealant products come in an aerosol can, and don't require anything additional. For our purposes, we'll be focusing on this variant. While the specific directions may vary from product to product, they generally work in a similar fashion.
The aerosol cans typically contain a foam or liquid sealant along with extra air. You attach the can to the tire's valve stem with the tube provided and fill it with the sealant, which presumably covers the puncture from within before hardening. Obviously, these products aren't going to fix major punctures or gashes, but they can be a great temporary solution.
Before using a puncture sealant product, make sure to read the can for product-specific instructions. They'll likely look something like this:
Step 1: You'll first need to remove any foreign objects, like a nail, with a pair of pliers.
Step 2: Position the tire with the valve stem at the top.
Step 3: Attach the nozzle on the can of sealant to the valve stem.
Step 4: Press the button and allow the fluid to enter.
Although the can comes with a little extra air, you'll likely need to add more air after the sealant becomes firm. Once you've allowed the sealant time to dry, you can use some of your soapy water to make sure it has done its job and stopped the leak.
So how long can you drive with a tire that has been fixed with tire sealant? Although it depends on the product, some manufacturers say you can drive for up to 100 miles. However, most experienced experts will tell you that that estimate isn't realistic, and it certainly isn't advised.
Again, tire sealant solutions are meant to be temporary, emergency measures rather than a permanent fix. For that reason, you should make a tire shop your next stop.
That having been said, these little cans can be just the thing you need in a pinch. They're small and inexpensive, so you can potentially keep several in your emergency kit.
A tire plug kit is another tool you can use to temporarily fix a flat until you can replace the tire with a new one. You'll find that there are all sorts of different kits that range from the most basic tools to a collection of implements for every possible scenario. However, the fundamental components you'll need to plug a flat tire are as follows: a rasp tool, a threading tool, the plug itself, and cement or sealant.
Some of the larger, more extensive kits will come with pliers to remove foreign objects, a knife to trim the excess portion of the plug, and even work gloves to protect your hands while you make the repairs.
While you can get by with the basic components, you'll probably want to have the other items at your disposal anyway. If you don't have them in your roadside emergency kit, it's a good idea to find a tire plug kit that comes with all of the above.
Step 1: First, you'll likely need to remove the tire. This may not be necessary in every case, but you need to be able to have direct access to the puncture point. If your tires are larger, or if the tires take up too much space within the wheel well, you may not have the clearance needed until the wheel is off. For more detailed instructions on how to remove your tire and wheel with a jack and a lug wrench, read our previous blog, "How to change a flat tire in four simple steps."
Step 2: If the object that punctured your tire is still in place, use your pliers to remove it.
Step 3: Use the rasp tool to clean the puncture hole. The rasp tool is a long, pointed piece of metal with a rough, textured end.
By quickly running it and out of the puncture, it helps make the hole more uniform, cleaning away stray pieces of rubber, but also providing a rough texture for the plug to grip on to.
Step 4: The insertion tool should look like a long, thin piece of metal with an eyelet at the end (like the head of a really large sewing needle). Thread the plug through the eyelet, and then firmly press the plug into the hole using the insertion tool. Some kits come with a glue, cement, or adhesive product, which you'll want to apply to the plug prior to insertion. Depending on your kit, there should be some portion (like 1/4 - 1/2 inch) of the plug protruding from the hole after insertion.
Step 5: Cut away the excess portion of the plug using your knife. Then, apply a layer of adhesive over the top to seal it in place and cover any small cracks.
Step 6: Wait for the adhesive to dry, then apply some of your soapy water to the plug site to test for leaks and fill them in with adhesive if necessary.
Step 7: Before replacing the tire, inflate the wheel to ensure that the plug and seal holds. If it does, you can now place the tire back on the vehicle, fasten it in place with the lugnuts and finish inflating.
How long can you drive with a tire plug? Unlike tire sealant, plugs can potentially last for hundreds of miles, or even years after you apply it. Of course, this depends on the plug, the type and location of the puncture, and how well the plug was installed. Furthermore, depending on the cause of the puncture, your tire may be more prone to flats and blowouts in the future.
No matter what the cause of your flat is, or what method you choose to fix it, the safest option is to visit your local tire shop as soon as possible. It can be easy to forget about your tires when you're going through your list of auto maintenance tasks. However, taking care of your tires through routine tire maintenance is the best way to avoid flats in the future.
Fixing a flat tire isn't always simple and sometimes, you need a helping hand. When you add Germania's Roadside Assistance Service to your personal auto policy, help is never far away!
Visit our website to learn more about Germania's Auto Insurance products!
Read more: Replacing a tire can be expensive, but your auto insurance doesn't have to be! Check out our blog to learn which auto insurance discounts you should look out for!
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Photo: Mikhail Tereshchenko / TASS
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Nail, rebar or sharp stone - sometimes you can damage a tire almost from scratch. First of all, the scale of damage is important, and often rubber can still be repaired.
Most often, motorists turn to tire shops for repairs in the middle of autumn or spring - just in the season of replacing summer tires with winter tires and vice versa. In order not to stand in lines, it is worth knowing exactly when to go to the tire shop and when to go to the store.
The most common "injury" to rubber is a puncture, and it can most often be repaired. Professionals in the nearest service will do it much faster, and your hands will remain clean. But if the puncture caught you in a deserted place, and there is a pump and a tire repair kit with harnesses in the trunk, you can patch up the tire yourself. Most often, when repairing the front tires, the wheel can not even be removed, it is enough to turn the steering wheel in the right direction and find the puncture site.
First, the hole is cleaned with a helical awl, the repair harness is smeared with glue and tucked into the eye of the awl, after which it is inserted into the tire hole. With a sharp movement, the tool is removed, and the tourniquet remains inside and securely clogs the hole.
The tails are cut with a knife, but it is recommended to leave about 20 mm. After that, the tire can be inflated and the pressure checked.
Repair with tourniquets is not considered long-term, because after some time they dry out and begin to let air through. A more advanced puncture repair method is vulcanization. The hole is sealed with an elastic patch, and the funnel at the puncture site is filled with a special compound. A vulcanizer is put on top, which heats the patch and solders the excess.
Under service conditions, the puncture is also repaired with cord fungus. The puncture site is processed and drilled to roughen. Everything is smeared with glue, after which a fungus is introduced from the inside of the tire, its cap is rolled, and the excess legs are cut off from the outside.
Photo: PA Images / TASS
A puncture can also be repaired with sealant. Many car manufacturers with run flat tubeless tires put compressor repair kits in the car instead of a spare tire - a bottle of pressurized sealant.
The car is raised on a jack, after which the sealant is pumped into the damaged wheel through the nipple. Next, you need to spin the wheel and pump it up. After repair, the car should be driven a couple of hundred meters to check the tightness of the tire. If it has not recovered, the procedure is repeated.
It happens that a self-tapping screw or a nail closes the hole in the tire, remaining inside. Do not rush to pull it out - until the pressure drops, you can safely get to the service for vulcanization. Sometimes the wheel begins to blow off a few weeks after the self-tapping screw got into it. Therefore, it is better to check tire pressure periodically, and if the pressure sensor lights up, you should at least visually inspect the tire for a nail head.
A bump or bulge most often occurs on the side of a tire after hitting an obstacle or hitting a hole at speed. From the impact, the sidewall carcass threads are damaged, the tire ceases to hold the load and pressure, swelling appears.
Any small bump eventually turns into a larger one, and with such a defect, the wheel can burst at any time. This is a direct safety hazard because a sudden flat tire can cause loss of control and a road accident.
Some bulges can be repaired, but no patch will ever restore a tire to factory stiffness. The ideal option in this case is to replace the tire. If a hernia has appeared on the tread, then you can extend the life of the tire with the help of cord patches - ready-to-use patches with an adhesive layer. But if swelling is found on the sidewall, the likelihood of repair is minimal, the wheel is easier to change. Blisters on low profile tires are generally not repairable.
Only car service professionals can repair a side cut. Cord patches will be needed to repair the damage, but after some time the wheel will still have to be changed. This method will work only if the gap is not in the shoulder area of the tire, then no one will repair it.
In general, cuts or punctures, unlike punctures, are considered non-repairable, since the integrity of the frame is violated.
And breakdowns do occur on the go, when the tire abruptly loses pressure and has time to make only a few turns “on the rims” before it comes to a complete stop. In this situation, the cord breaks and the layers of the tire are destroyed. Even if it is possible to close the hole, it is not recommended to use such a weakened tire.
Photo: Mikhail Pletsky / Russian Look
Cracks, sidewall abrasions and unprofessional tire fitting can also lead to tire problems. Cracks can occur as a result of improper storage of tires. Their danger is that moisture begins to flow to the cord, and this already renders the frame unusable. Air can also escape through cracks. Cracks cannot be repaired and tires will not last long. A tire with cracks is deformed, blistered, and may even break while driving.
Rubbing against curbs or driving on uneven roadsides can damage the tire sidewall. When driving like this, it is worth inspecting the tires for damage regularly. If a slight wear is found, the wheels can be swapped, which will slightly extend their service life and allow you to delay the purchase of new ones.
Improper fitting can damage the tire bead. In this case, the tire will lose its geometry and sit on a disc with a bevel, “eights” will be visible during rotation, and the driver will feel vibration while driving. It is impossible to repair this defect, the wheel must be changed as soon as possible, otherwise there is a risk of damage to the suspension.
How to Tires
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Another season of changing shoes is approaching. And you may remember that on one of the tires after the last winter/summer there is a jamb - a small bump. I don’t want to run to the store for the sake of one new tire. We understand.
Or maybe it looks even better if repaired?
Yes, not every wheel that encounters a nail, rebar sticking out of the ground or a sharp stone off-road is considered damaged. Everything, of course, depends on the scale of the damage and its location on the tire itself. Some are easily repaired, while others are simply impossible to do - the tire can only be sent to the trash.
A bulge on a wheel, referred to by drivers as a bump or bulge, is the most common tire sidewall defect. It appears due to a collision with an obstacle or after falling into a pit, more often at high speed. The threads of the sidewall carcass are easily damaged by impact, and the tire at this point can no longer hold the load and air pressure - swelling appears. A small bump sooner or later turns into a big one, and driving with such a defect is dangerous - the wheel can shoot at any moment. At high speed, this is fraught with loss of control, departure from the road and a rollover.
The quality of roads in Kazakhstan contributes to the appearance of bulges on tires
Some types of bulges are repairable, although this is a temporary measure. Not a single patch can restore the factory rigidity. Ideally, change the tire.
Special cord patches can extend the life of a tire with a herniation, even if the swelling has appeared on the tread. The sidewall is a different story. If the swelling appeared at a distance of more than 40 mm from the side, it can be repaired. If not, then the wheel needs to be replaced. Blisters on low profile tires are most often non-repairable.
For maximum safety when riding with a repaired bump, insert the tube. This is an inexpensive and reliable solution. On our market, you can find cameras made in China and Russia, the latter are slightly more expensive, but also of better quality.
The elimination of a side cut is a serious operation, therefore, as in the case of a bump, you will have to go to the professionals.
We need cord patches, fortunately in our time they are of different sizes and with a different number of layers. And if you do it wisely, then you can't do without special tools and vulcanization.
A cut, by the way, cannot be healed in all cases. If the gap is in the shoulder area of the tire, it is unlikely that anyone will undertake to repair it, since no guarantees can be given here. However, our Kulibins take on even the most difficult cases, cutting out parts of the sidewalls from the tires and even weaving the cord on their own.
Tire overhaul. We would not put such a wheel on ourselves
Low profile tires can be repaired, but more difficult. A tear in the sidewall is easier to seal on tires with a medium or high profile.
Sometimes a cut is confused with a pluck. This is when the outer layer of the sidewall caught on something sharp, a tear formed, but the frame itself remained intact. There is nothing wrong with that, although the drivers at the tire fitting company successfully repair the cut, for which they take it accordingly.
If a piece of rubber remains on the sidewall, then glue it with ordinary superglue (101st). If it came off, then it is better to cover it with raw rubber and vulcanize. Leaving the pluck bare is not recommended, because the tire carcass, often consisting of a metal cord, will quickly corrode.
In Europe, defective or used tires are perforated before being sent for scrap to prevent their resale and possible operation. But they don’t know that we have such holes on the sidewall patched once or twice
Cuts and hernias are not the only possible damage to the side of the tire. You can also spoil the side ring, in the process of changing shoes, for example. If it’s for garlic, then such a tire is already dangerous. Sooner or later, the tire pressure and the load in motion will start to squeeze the rubber off the rim - a wheel explosion can occur.
This ailment is repaired if the wire ring - the base - is intact.
There are no special technologies and materials to correct this particular problem, but most often craftsmen use a two-component composition for chemical (also called cold) vulcanization. After mixing, the mass is pressed into a fat-free damage. Compound manufacturers recommend waiting 72 hours before mounting a tire. Of course, our masters do not pay attention to this condition - they put the tire right away. And it’s good if the wheel is flat because of this at night in the parking lot, and not on the road.
If the side ring tears are barely noticeable, but the wheel still deflates, then you can use a special liquid - a bead seal designed to seal a tubeless tire.
These seals have been used in motorsport for some time. In particular, in the American Formula D Drift Series, drivers used compounds to keep the tire on the rim even with minimal tire pressure. Now they are banned.
Pay attention to the left rear wheel of the Nissan Silvia S13. Due to too low pressure, it was literally taken off the disk under load
Every schoolboy has faced this problem when patching his bike tube after hitting something sharp.
Repairing a car tire puncture with your own hands will also not be difficult even on the road. But for this you will need a pump (or compressor) and a universal tire repair kit with harnesses. All this is sold at any car market or gas station.
Repairing a tire on the side of the road with harnesses
The process is simple. If we are talking about the front wheels, then in most cases the wheel can not even be removed, it is enough to turn the steering wheel in the right direction, find the puncture site and carry out repairs. First, the hole is cleaned with a helical awl from the set. The tourniquet itself is smeared with glue and tucked into the eye of the awl, after which it is inserted into the tire hole. With a sharp movement, the tool is removed, and the tourniquet remains in place and clogs the hole. The tails are cut with a knife, but not at the root, it is recommended to leave about 20 mm. The tire is inflated and checked.
Sometimes a nail or self-tapping screw clogs the hole by itself, remaining in it.
If you see a hat in a tread, do not rush to pull it out. While the pressure is holding, move to vulcanize. And sometimes they drive with a screw in a tire for weeks.
Repair of a puncture at a tire shop
Punctures are also repaired with harnesses at a specialized service, although among professionals such repairs are not considered long-term. After a few months, the flagella dry out and can let air through. There are more advanced methods like cold and hot vulcanization. The latter is more reliable. In this case, the hole is sealed with an elastic patch, and the funnel from a foreign object is filled with a special compound. After that, a vulcanizer is put on the tire, it heats up the rubber and solders it.
In addition to the plaster, the puncture is also repaired with special cord fungi. Craftsmen process the puncture site: drill it and treat the surface with a tool to roughen it. Then the repair area is lubricated with glue (it is also called cement) and a fungus is introduced.
This is done from the inside of the tire. The cap of the fungus is rolled, and the excess legs are simply cut off from the outside.
Puncture repair with sealant
With the advent of tubeless wheels, and later run flat tires, many automakers began to abandon spare wheels. Instead, repair kits with compressors are supplied with the machines. A repair kit is essentially a bottle of pressurized sealant. Later, such spray cans began to appear on the shelves of ordinary car dealerships.
This method has not taken root in the CIS, because the condition of the roads makes it necessary to have at least a stowaway in the kit, but it can also be considered as a method of repair on the road.
The car must be jacked up and sealant must be pumped into the damaged wheel through the nipple. Next, you should spin the wheel, then pump it up, lower the car and drive a few hundred meters.
If the tire tightness has not been restored, repeat the procedure.
For commercial vehicles, cutting the tread with a special device (regrower) is a common thing. Moreover, such tire retreading is provided by the factory (marked REGROOVABLE on the sidewall) to increase the service life. But there are entrepreneurs who undertake to deepen the grooves in tires for passenger cars. But they are not intended for such an operation. Often used tires for sale are “refreshed” in this way. Be careful!
What is the threat?
The worst option is that the retreaded tire will shoot out on the road, as the master can damage the undertread layer when deepening the grooves. Such a tire will not be able to hold pressure at some point. There will be a boom! At best, the tire will indeed last a little longer, but is the game worth the candle? We think it's not worth it.
How is cutting done?
A regrower is used to cut the tread.
Roughly speaking, this is a large soldering iron with interchangeable tips of various shapes. It goes through rubber like a knife through butter.
If the tire is for passenger cars, then it is worth taking on a regrower only in one case - when part of the tread pattern was welded with "new" rubber during repair. This is where threading comes in handy in order to restore the grooves and symmetry of the tread.
Vehicle operation is prohibited if:
- tires have a residual tread height of less than 1.6 mm;
- tires have punctures, cuts, ruptures that expose the cord, as well as delamination of the carcass, delamination of the tread and sidewall;
- tires in size or load capacity do not match the car model;
- tires of various sizes, designs (radial, diagonal, chamber, tubeless), models, with different tread patterns, winter and summer, studded and non-studded, new and restored, are installed on one axle of the car;
— Tires retreaded according to the second repair class are installed on the front axle.
