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How to properly change and seal the bicycle inner tube

Sooner or later, every cyclist has such an unpleasant situation as a bicycle inner tube puncture. Finding a flat tire at home is one thing (although it also requires some knowledge of camera repair), but what if you blew it during a multi-kilometer ride, for example, somewhere in a field? How to determine the puncture site in such a situation, correctly change and seal the bicycle chamber, what kind of glue and patches are best suited for this purpose. In addition, in this article we will consider some of the nuances of repair and proper operation of bicycle chambers, for example, we will talk about what pressure they should have and much more. 9Ol000 Related video

Replacing the bicycle tube

During long trips, it is advisable to carry not only a bicycle tool, but also a spare tube, with which you can quickly replace the failed one and go further. After all, this is much faster than waiting for the glue to dry on a freshly sealed one. Therefore, in this section we will consider such a question as how to remove a bicycle tire and replace the camera when it is punctured.

1. Remove the wheel from the bike. To do this, loosen the eccentric (or unscrew the fixing nut on the axis).
2. We wipe the side surfaces of the tire and rim from dirt with a rag.
3. Lay the wheel on its side and make a mark with chalk (or other materials at hand) on the tire opposite the camera nipple. If there is nothing at hand, then remember this position, relying on the side inscriptions. After that, the wheel should remain only on this side. This is necessary so that after we take out the camera and find a puncture on it, we can, by attaching it to the tire, find the place where the foreign object pierced the latter. In most cases, the plant's nail or needle remains in the bike tire, and if left unremoved, it will pierce the new tube as soon as it is replaced.
4. We unscrew the cap of the chamber nipple, and, pressing on the nipple, let the air out until the edges of the tire “fall behind” from the rim sides. The camera can not be completely lowered.
5. Then, with the help of a special beading blade (mounting tool), we pry off the edge of the tire, and, resting the blade against the rim wall, pull its bead out.

   Be careful not to get a tube between the mount and the rim. This may lead to its rupture. If you do not have a magazine spatula, then you can use any non-sharp, preferably plastic object of a similar shape. It is not necessary to use wooden products for these purposes (they may be with burrs) or metal products that damage the paintwork of the bicycle rim. Sharp objects (screwdrivers, knives, etc.) are strictly not recommended for use. They can damage both the tube and the tire.

6. After you have pulled out a part of the bead, hold it with the other hand, and with a spatula draw along the contour of the rim. At this stage, we have removed one side of the tire.
7. We pull out the chamber, for which we push the nipple inside the rim, and slowly take it out.

   It is important not to turn it over to the other side until we find the puncture site and find it on the tire (by attaching a tube to it).

8. After that, we remove the bicycle tire completely (you can not do this right away, but try to find the puncture site by touch, but with the tire removed, of course, it is easier). We move its side, which remains between the walls of the rim, to the edge and, holding the latter, pull it towards us. After we remove it, we leave the tire in the same position as it stood on the rim (to search for a foreign object stuck in it).
9. Check the inside of the rim and tire for debris and foreign objects that should be removed before installing a new inner tube.
10. We inflate the bicycle chamber and find the puncture site, remembering its position or marking it, for example, with chalk. After that, we lower it completely through the nipple.
11. We put the camera on the tire, placing its nipple against the mark, and make a second mark at the site of the hole found.
12. We run our hand along the inside of the tire at the puncture site and find a sharp object that is easy to remove with tweezers or pliers.
13. After that we put one side of the tire on the rim. Please note that during installation, the correct direction of the protector must be observed. This can be done by looking at the side of the tire. On one or both sides there will be arrows indicating the correct direction of rotation (the inscription Drive, Direction or just an arrow may be present). Next, we insert a new chamber inside, pulling the nipple through the corresponding hole on the rim (for ease of installation, the bicycle chamber can be pumped up a little), and put on the second side. We inflate the wheel with a pump and screw on the cap.

The punctured chamber should then be repaired, for example after you have returned home from a bike ride or during a break.

How to spot a puncture

At first glance, a very simple procedure for locating a puncture can become much more complicated depending on where you find a flat tire (at home or during a trip). To simplify the search procedure, it should be taken into account that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called "contact spot" of the wheel with the road, usually no higher than 2/3 of the chamber height. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape failed on the latter) or the iron threads of the tire cord that came out. Therefore, we will consider several options for how to find a hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is bled.

• The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have an insignificant tank, the depth of which allows you to immerse it at least 2/3 of the height. We rotate the camera until we find air bubbles that will escape from the water. After we take it out, find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
• If there is no water nearby, then fine dust will come to the rescue (which can be found on dirt roads). We increase the pressure in the chamber to enhance the air jet from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera, and we look at the place where the dust will begin to scatter.
• If the weather is calm outside, the puncture can be detected by holding the camera to a wet wrist (its inner side). The skin should be wet to make the search as easy as possible. For this method it is also desirable to increase the pressure.
• If there is a strong puncture in a quiet place, it can be detected by ear.

What can be used to seal the tube

Not all adhesives and patches are suitable for repairing a punctured bicycle wheel. Therefore, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the topic of what is possible and what should not be sealed with a bike camera. There are several options, which we will discuss below.

1. Specialized repair kits. A lot of bicycle parts manufacturers produce so-called bicycle camera repair kits, which usually consist of a case, a crayon to mark the puncture site, a sander (usually a metal perforated plate or a piece of sandpaper), several patches of various shapes and sizes, and glue. The composition of the adhesive is specifically designed to be used with the surface of specific patches (with which it enters into a chemical reaction), so using it together with patches from another manufacturer may not work. Fortunately, in most of these repair kits, the amount of glue is clearly calculated for the number of patches.
2. China inner tube repair kits. Some riders underestimate the power of the Chinese industry and look down on their belts. I can’t talk about everything (I’m sure some of them are really terrible), but for the last 4 years I’ve been using exclusively Chinese Red Sun patches (although this may not be a company, but the name of a repair kit). They are quite common. For several years of use, none of the patches flew off and began to let air through. And the cost of this product is lower than that of famous brands. The disadvantages include that the set contains only glue and patches, and what is most offensive, there are disproportionately more patches than glue. Well, these are already trifles. In general, I advise everyone.
3. The third option is the most unreliable and therefore it should be used only as a last resort. Here we have highlighted homemade patches that can be made from an old bicycle inner tube. As an adhesive, you can use almost any plastic adhesive for rubber. But in this case, the reliability of the patch turns out to be very low. It says so, "at your own peril and risk." When using homemade patches, you can not use glue, which, when solidified, can burst at the bends.
4. Vulcanization. Sounds good, is very reliable (better than any glue and patches, given that you vulcanize in a specialized workshop), but in reality it is not worth the money and troubles. It is quite difficult to do at home (and impossible in the field) and you can easily screw up the camera.

How to properly stick the patch

After we have found and marked the place of the bicycle inner tube puncture, it is necessary to start its repair, namely, to seal this hole. To do this, you must perform the following operations.

1. If the camera is wet (after looking for a defect), then you should wait for it to dry completely. Plus, it must be completely deflated.
2. Using sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually present in bicycle tube repair kits), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 centimeter larger than the size of the bike patch in diameter. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects.
3. Remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will stick to the camera.
4. Apply glue. It can be applied to the patch only, to the camera only, or to both. This information can be found on the adhesive tube. We also pay attention to the exposure time in air and the time of complete solidification indicated there (the last two points may not be indicated).
5. We firmly press the patch to the place we need, squeeze out the air from under it (to do this, press on its center and gradually move towards the edges) and keep it in this state for several minutes. The procedure is simplified if you put the camera on a flat surface, place a strong plate on top (for example, a piece of laminate) and press it down with all your weight by stepping on it. We compress the place of gluing for about 5 minutes.
6. Many people say that after that you can immediately put the camera in the bike wheel and ride, but I would advise you to wait at least another 30 minutes.

What to do if the tube deflates

If, after you have sealed a puncture on the bike tube, it still deflates over time, you should check: To do this, the place with the patch should be lowered into the water and make sure there are no air bubbles. If they are, then you will have to tear off the old and glue a new patch.

Is the metalized cord coming out. It happens that over time on cheap bicycle tires the cord breaks down, which is a thin wire (more expensive tires use nylon threads and other materials) that can crawl out from the inside of the tire and constantly pierce the tube. If such a problem is found, the tire should be replaced as soon as possible. A temporary solution is to pull out the protruding cord wire and seal this place with a patch for the camera. But I repeat that in this case, a tire replacement is required, because. this will be repeated regularly.

If the tube is damaged at the base of the nipple (for example, it was rubbed by the rim), it is better to replace it immediately. As a rule, such defects cannot be repaired.

Tips for avoiding punctures

To reduce the chance of unexpected tire and tube damage while riding, there are a few simple rules to follow.

• Maintain the correct tire pressure. There is no specific figure here, because for certain tubes / tires, the nominal working pressure may be different. For example, on mountain bikes, the pressure in the chamber should be about 2.5-5 bar, and on road bikes - 6-9bar. On the tire of the bicycle there are corresponding inscriptions of the minimum and maximum pressure. It looks like this. If the pressure is too low, this greatly increases the risk of puncture. It is worth remembering that when driving in winter or in the autumn-spring period, the temperature outside is lower than in the apartment. Therefore, on cold days, the chamber should be inflated a little more (because as the temperature of the air in the closed volume decreases, its pressure decreases). Therefore, if you pump up to 3 bar in summer, then in winter you can increase the pressure by about 1 bar (but not higher than the maximum allowable).
• Change tires when worn. When developing its resource (erasing the tread), the likelihood of a puncture also increases. And if you have a worn tire, and you began to notice that the wheel began to break through more and more often, you should think about replacing the tire.

There are two other devices on the bike parts market that are designed to make life easier (at least they position themselves that way) when riding a bike. This is an anti-puncture tape and sealant, which is poured in a small amount into the chamber and is designed to “tighten” punctures while driving.

Anti-puncture tape is a strip of soft, rubberized plastic or, in more expensive products, Kevlar, that can be glued or simply inserted between the tire and the bicycle tube to protect against punctures. But there are pitfalls here. Cheap anti-puncture, firstly, does not always protect against punctures, and secondly, it can fall apart inside the tire and rub the chamber into dust with its fragments, thereby dooming the latter to ejection. Plus, it's extra weight. In general, after sitting on the forums, I agreed that they are more blamed than praised.

As far as the sealant is concerned, things are not so good either. As a temporary solution, when you don’t want to bother with replacing the camera, you can, of course, use it. But the sealant does not seal the puncture completely, but only reduces air leakage. Plus, there were complaints after use, when they wanted to stick a patch on the puncture site.

In general, according to the editors, it is better to use better quality bicycle tires with built-in puncture protection, carry a spare tube with you and not bother with the above accessories.

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Conclusion

After reading this article, we can conclude that replacing and repairing a bicycle inner tube is not such a difficult task, and sealing it during a trip is not much more difficult than doing it at home. The most important thing on long trips is to have another spare tube and a puncture repair kit with you. Also, do not forget to pump up the chamber to the required pressure in time and change worn-out bicycle tires in a timely manner.

Selection and correct mounting of tubeless tires on a bicycle

Tubeless tires have gained popularity among cyclists due to their significant advantages. They are confidently replacing standard tube tires from the market, providing more comfort and safety when driving. Especially common on mountain bikes, but gradually tubeless got to ordinary road bikes. So there are already prerequisites for a mass transition from camera systems.

Tubeless tire

In recent years, manufacturers have actively increased the range of tubeless tires. Now you do not need to equip the tire with an internal chamber to maintain its shape and pressure, the tubeless will successfully cope with the task, supplementing the wheel with improved characteristics.

Tubeless bicycle tires use an extra layer of rubber or latex sealant. Many tires require a special rim. You can purchase a kit to convert a regular rim to tubeless. The high cost of products in comparison with standard tires is justified by obtaining a significant benefit from the purchase.

Benefits of

The popularity of this type of tire among fans of active cycling is due to a number of advantageous features. By choosing a tubeless system for your bike, you will endow its wheels with improved features.

• Tubeless tires are puncture resistant. They are made of a very dense, durable material, which makes them resistant to road obstacles and punctures.
• When damaged, air will not escape from the inside of the tire as is the case with a standard tire. The sealant in the tubeless composition is able to seal a small puncture on its own, and the foreign body responsible for the puncture, if it remains in the rubber, also seals the hole, respectively, the wheel will not go down completely.
• There is no need to remove the wheel to repair the rubber, in order to bring it back to working condition, usually enough liquid sealant is poured into the damaged area.
• The best reel. This characteristic will be especially significant when moving on uneven terrain.
• Ability to drive on a flat tire. Getting to the place of repair will not be a significant inconvenience, the pressure will not drop to a critical level, as when driving with a punctured chamber on a conventional tire.
• The rigidity of the tire prevents the appearance of the notorious "snake bites" that occur when a tube model has a strong collision with an obstacle. The rim of the wheel will not damage the rubber by cutting it along the sides.
• Light weight. This parameter has always played an important role for cyclists. Thanks to the use of tubeless rubber, the weight of the bike can be lightened by a kilogram and a half. Tubeless itself is heavier than a conventional tire, but the absence of a tube and the presence of light materials in the manufacture of the rim will ensure that the overall structure is lighter.

Types of tubeless tires

There are certain technology standards applicable to the manufacture of tubeless systems.

Tubeless Bicycle System

UST Standard (Universal System Tubeless)

The all-in-one tubeless system came into existence thanks to the French bicycle tire manufacturer Mavic. At one time it was considered the most successful tire option for extreme bicycles. Differing in the strength of rubber due to the use of several of its layers, an additional layer of butyl acts as a sealant, such tires are very strong and wear-resistant. But unfortunately, they have a lot of weight and the need to equip the bike with a special rim suitable for them. There are no spoke holes in these tires.

BST Standard (Bead Socked Technology)

A new step in the development of technology, which allowed the installation of tires on almost any rim of a bicycle that can weigh up to 300 grams. Standard spokes are used, due to which maintainability is increased. The low sidewall of the rim provides more efficient operation of the wheel. Lighter in weight, sealant is supposed to be used.

TLR Standard (Tubeless Ready)

Tires in this class are universal and can be used with or without a tube. The tire has a distinctively shaped bead coated with butyl for a sealed connection to the rim. In the case of operation without a chamber, the use of a sealant is necessary. Like BST tires, they are also lightweight.

Basic selection criteria

• Tire size and width may vary depending on the type of bike for which they are purchased. Different riding styles require the use of different rubber sizes. The more extreme the riding style, the wider tires you need for your bike. Wide tires provide better grip, good cushioning, and more air.
• Tread types. The pattern on the surface of the tire affects the behavior of the bike on certain terrain. Choose the type of tread depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle. More or less smooth city roads in the warm season do not require studded tires. Many manufacturers initially determine the purpose of certain tires for different conditions.

1. Slick - smooth tires that allow you to develop high speed, but are characterized by little grip on the surface.
2. Semi-slick - a small tread provides a good roll on a flat surface. Tires are suitable for wet weather, but not suitable for mud and snow conditions.
3. Deep tread pattern. Tires with a high tread are able to overcome driving on dirt roads, snow and mud, but do not develop high speed. The deeper the tread pattern, the better the grip on all surfaces.
4. Studded winter tires. Recommended for purchase only for the winter, provides the least slip in snow and ice.

• Cord weave density. TPI - an indicator that indicates the density of the material, indicates the number of intersecting threads per inch. The larger the number marked TPI, the denser and stronger the rubber, respectively, the lower the likelihood of damage.

Deep tread tire

• Material. The rubber compounds used in production provide the tire with the necessary qualities. The combination of different types of rubber and the alternation of layers determines the strength and durability of products, reducing the risk of damage. The protective layer of the tire is made mainly of Kevlar fiber or dense rubber. High-strength material, coupled with a protective coating and a strong carcass, provides maximum protection of the wheel from punctures.

Tubeless tire installation

Mounting a tubeless tire is a little more difficult than mounting a tubed one. It cannot be installed or removed with conventional tools such as screwdrivers or beading, because there is a risk of damage to the inside of the beadboard by such objects. All actions related to installation or removal will have to be done by hand or with specially designed plastic mounting blades.

1. Make sure the sidewalls of the tire and rim are intact, wipe them clean.
2. Install valve, wheel rim.
3. Wipe the rim and tire contact surface with tubeless lubricant or soapy water.
4. Start on the opposite side of the spool, first one bead, then the other. Spread the tire on the rim, check the correct position.
5. Spread the sealant over the entire inner surface of the tire.
6. Start inflating the rubber with a pump or compressor. The maximum allowable pressure for each model will be different, it must be specified by the manufacturer. You will understand when it will be necessary to stop and the pressure is sufficient, since you need to pump up a tubeless wheel on a bicycle until it clicks.
7. It will be necessary to inflate the rubber several times until the sealant completely hardens.

Tubeless tire installation

The procedure for replacing the sealant will have to be carried out quite often, as it becomes unusable over time. Weather conditions have a direct influence on the service life. The sealant tolerates heat much worse, and the filled wheels must function, and not gather dust in the garage or on the balcony. So, with constant use of tires, their life will last longer than when you allow the composition to stagnate and grow old over time.

There is no urgent need to purchase tubeless tires for city bikes, but here it is already worth deciding based on your own needs, how winding routes you ride, how strong the wheels require the terrain on which the vehicle is used.

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