ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Steering & Suspension > Bent Axle
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canadian400ex
08-14-2001, 09:19 PM
I bent my axle last night during an obstacle course at a local exhibition. It isn't bent all that bad.. I can't feel it while i'm riding but you can see it wobbling a bit. Should I get it straightened or do I not worry 'bout it. It doesn't alter the handling at all but do you think it will be a problem...is it going to be any weaker...I don't want to damage my carrier or anything. Thanks for the info.
booneTRX
08-14-2001, 09:21 PM
iF YOU DO ANY JUMPING, I WOULD REPLACE IT. IF YOU DONT, THAN JUST HAVE IT STRAIGHTENED.
canadian400ex
08-14-2001, 09:25 PM
That sux. I race moto-x and also do a lot of jumping when I am just playing around!
Stevo
08-14-2001, 11:38 PM
Wow you must of hit it real hard. From what I know the stock ex axle is very strong. I would get a new stock one or a lonestar.
08-15-2001, 08:57 AM
I bent my axle (slightly) over a year ago. I have been riding it with this bend for over a year now. If I put the quad up on blocks and let the rear wheels spin, I can see the right tire ever so slightly shake. Wide open (67MPH) on a paved road, I dont feel it.
If mine were bent any more than this, I would either buy a new one or get it straightened immediately. If yours is bent any worse than mine, you WILL prematurely wear out your axle bearings if you dont fix it / replace it.
Good luck.
oynot400
08-15-2001, 09:12 AM
Mine is slightly bent also, it has been for a while. It will take out your bearings it did mine. I need to get a different axle I just have to find the money first. You should be able to ride for a while with it bent. Just don't put it off.
08-15-2001, 09:48 AM
If it's bent next to your carrier then your gonna cost yourself all kinds of headache and money,,if it's out toward your tire then it sounds like you'll be OK.
.
SNIPA
08-15-2001, 12:16 PM
My right rear wobbles a little. How can I know if it is the rim or the axle? Is there a easy way to find this out???
MOFO
08-15-2001, 12:22 PM
The easiest way that I would check would be to take the wheels off and then spin the axle while the quad is on blocks....if you see the axle move with no tires on...you have bent axle. If it is smooth and then shakes with the tires on...you have a bent rim...
Eric
AlaskaSpeed
08-15-2001, 12:38 PM
I have a perfectly straight stock axle if any of you want to make an offer on it. I had it on my quad for about 15 rides and it is in very good shape. I replaced it with a wider axle for racing. email me @ [email protected] if you are interested....JIM
canadian400ex
08-15-2001, 03:33 PM
I'm pretty sure it wont, but is the axle covered under warranty? Thanx for all the information fella's!
Leo
08-15-2001, 06:17 PM
I don't think your warranty will cover a bent axle caused by a collision :(
I'm going to move this thread over to the chassis forum.
Leo
canadian400ex
08-16-2001, 03:35 PM
My axle didn't bend do to a collision. I bent it by jumping and landing on flat ground. You're right though, it probably isn't covered under warranty.
Dave400ex
08-16-2001, 04:44 PM
The only things covered under the warranty are flaws by Honda. The axle would not be, I don`t think. I saw stock Honda axles were $205 in the new Dirtwheels. I would just buy a Durablue axle.
canadian400ex
08-16-2001, 08:16 PM
Yeah, I wont be buying a stock one. In Canada, they're $402.44. If I bent this one, I'll certainly bend another stock one! I went to the moto-x track tonight and it was ROUGH as I have ever seen it! I didn't make the axle any worse so I hope I'll be alright.
08-19-2001, 09:29 PM
You said you wre at an exhibition or something- (does that mean you are sponsored by anyone???) I would get a new durablue, definately.
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ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Mini ATV 90cc Under ATV Sub-Forum > DRR ATVs > Bent axle...WTH????!!!!
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View Full Version : Bent axle...WTH????!!!!
forgiven
06-14-2007, 08:08 PM
I was lifting up on my sons bumper and letting him rev it up a bit. Back right looked a little wobbly. I thought...perhaps the lugs were loose or the castle nut perhaps...nope the axle is bent. Now I have seen some of your kids jumpin pics...my kid isn't anywhere close to that. I am just beside myself at this point. I bought this psuedo race ready quad so I didn't have to go through all these nagging issues. We don't race and we are mostly trail riders for the most part. Are all of you replacing the stock axle? My son hasn't done anything that he didn't do on his Predator last year and this is supposedly light years ahead of that.
I know I am ranting but I am so frustrated at this point I don't know what to do.
forgiven
06-14-2007, 08:17 PM
So far I have had the sprocket guard bend with not much effort. Put back into place with little effort and a 4X4 post.
Chain tensioner doesn't tension
Chain has numerous frozen or very stiff links. I spent about 1 hour with the parts washer and then soaked it worked the links and soaked it again...still a few preventing it from rolling right. So I had to get a new chain.
This is the first major thing but my son is not a racer and is fairly conservative...especially compared to most on here (judging by pics etc.) I try real hard to maintain everything well and use all the right stuff.
I know I need to get off the ledge but we bought the DRR to avoid this type of stuff.
wvspeedfreak
06-14-2007, 08:33 PM
Sorry to hear about you luck with the drr.
Sometimes it's not how hard you land but "how" you land that bends an axle.Coming down on one rear wheel can do it and sometimes it doesn't have to be a hard hit either.I know when Austin started jumping his Kasea I bought a couple used axles off of Ebay in anticipation of things to come.Knock on wood....he hasn't bent one yet :p
The chain tensioner on our drr was frozen too when I got it but I just kept spraying it with wd-40 and moving it up and down.It finally freed up and has been working fine since.I just lube it every time I lube the chain.
dirttrack86
06-14-2007, 09:05 PM
First, swap tires and see if it is the axle or a rim. Then you can repair from that point. My daughter has rode extremely hard for a year now and hasn't had any problems with the axle. The chain on all drx's are stiff. Just put about 2 hours riding, clean and lube and it will be loose. Expect lots of little bugs at first on any kung fu bike you buy, including honda. Just the nature of the beast.
lol.:)
DRR-Atvs
06-14-2007, 10:16 PM
We bent our axle after 2 years of racing when we dropped it out of our pick up on the one rear wheel. thanks kids they yanked it off the back. Are you sure its the axle and not the rim? There are a heck of alot of people on thier first axle who are racing
sldhd700
06-14-2007, 11:08 PM
That sucks hearing about your axle. I think like everyone else is it really your axle rim or tire. Also you may want to look at your chain lube this can be a downer. Alot of chain lubes are very tacky. I don t prefer this as it can collect dirt or sand. Next don t wash your chain with solvent this will wash out oil within the links. When I clean my chain after every ride I wash it with the rest of the bike using Simple Green. Next wire brush the chain removing stuck on dirt. Then I oil it until it is dripping and let it soak before the next ride. I have had frozen links after coming back from the dunes but they always seem to free up.
Don t be down on the bike because of the chain or the bent axle. I had a 250R with a bent axle and just considered that a great way to clean the mud off that tire!
Shayden Housley #39
Logan #34's Dad
06-14-2007, 11:25 PM
Logan just bent his axel this past weekend after a crash on the track. The way the quad is set up with one side of the axel being alot longer than the other they are going to bend. I'm not sure if they sell aftermarket axels yet (Durablue). I'm going to try to use this one for the weekend then look around.
forgiven
06-15-2007, 08:51 AM
I was typing angry yesterday so I left off how I came to the conclusion it is bent. I pulled the hubs and ran it with nothing on it, and yeah it is on the long side of the axle.
It isn't like a pretzel, and for all I know DRR may step up and replace it...BUT I lost one weekend due to the lug issue that we all have had but I had a less than desireable outcome getting mine off.
I understand with offroad vehicles there is going to be a certain amount of repair. I have 6 quads and a dirt bike so it is not like I have unrealistic expectations that there are "super machines" that never break. However if you ride within what they are designed to do they usually are quite durable. It is when you start abusing and exceeding what they are designed to do you start having issues.
I am essentially just venting, but if the end answer is that yeah...these aren't really set up for any type of jumping but essentially another lawn and grass machine (which I don't believe they are) I will be very disappointed. Buying a durablue is yet another multi hundred dollar add on to make it perform as advertised.
Then again I could have just gotten a "bad one" out of the lot...who knows.
I am working with a local fabricator to produce some type of heavy duty swingarm guard that is more than just for looks in case anyone is interested out of aluminum. I am not sure he is interested in mass producing them and it would be more as a favor to me so I will know more in the coming weeks (kind of a back burner project).
PM me if you are interested...no promises though.
I will let you guys know what DRR's position is so you will know if it happens to you.
kenjolly
06-15-2007, 10:43 AM
If you can change the rear shock to one thats a little stiffer and better,i dont know what you kids wieght is but if more than about 70lbs i would change. we bent the axle and swing arm do to shock failure from hard riding and jumping. our rider is about 100lbs and bottoms out alot. the black shock off the early 07 50cc is much stiffer and is working well and wont cost you much to get one.
call Gary fallon at drrnation.com
forgiven
06-15-2007, 11:16 AM
I do have a works single rate but didn't put it on (Had bought it for a predator 90) because my rider ~85lbs with no gear has not bottomed it out on the softest setting yet. Additionally I had wondered what the advantage would be over the stock shock if he wasn't bottoming anyway, and considered reselling it.
I posted a Q on that but haven't got a good feel of what the advantage would be. I bought the shock used and it was a good deal so it was an impulse buy anyway.
I have spoke with my dealer and will I guess I will talk with Lou, but I know how it looks...it is just frustrating when you have seen your kid ride etc.
It is just a crappy situation and I started the post to see if others have had the same issue, but it doesn't appear so. I could go with Durablue but that is a ton and doesn't mean I won't be replacing one of those either...albeit free of charge. Just concerned with replacing it with the same and having the same result.
bulldogfallon
06-15-2007, 11:37 AM
Axles are just one of those things that can bend without too much of a warning...sometimes it is an obvious cause and other times it is a subtle thing that goes unoticed for a while....
We haven't bent an axles from riding except for the time Dillan ran into a fence post on a power slide.
...
It can be from a combination of things...rider weight, angle it lands, tire pressure etc
With almost any axle the wider it is the must succeptable it is to bending
Hey Ken you forgot to mention that you ran wheel spacers when you bent your axle.....I believe that contributed to the bend
drr wizard
06-15-2007, 11:39 AM
this is just a thought but since you mentioned your swing arm guard , could your axle have been damaged when your swing arm guard got damaged? You didnt say what happen to your guard but since you are custom building a stronger one I assume the original was not strong enough for your riding style. It just popped into my head after reading your post that it could be related. But dont be shocked axles are a common upgrade for many riders, fortunatly my stock DRX axles have held up very well , but there is allways tomorrow! ha ha
drr wizard
sldhd700
06-15-2007, 12:37 PM
I read your previou post about your lug nut issues.
I don t know about everybody else but, my sons bike came unassembled in a crate. If the lug nuts were over torqued you may want to contact the dealer that assembled the bike. If the bolts were that over torqued this could create a safety issue. For example breaking the studs while riding. If the bike was shipped unassembled this sounds like a dealer issue rather than a DRR issue. It sucks to hear someone is so unhappy with their bike.
forgiven
06-15-2007, 01:49 PM
Wiz
I am not counting anything out at this point. The guard issue is that it really doesn't have any support side to side so if it hits anything other than straight on it will push the guard to one side or the other. I am looking to put a plate across the bottom and supported on both sides...should solve that issue.
something like...
http://www.monkeybuttparts.com/Images/thumbnails/DG_bajaswingarmskid.jpg
I am NOT trying to say that my son rides on grass and giving the equivalent of a little old lady just drove it back and forth to church.
He does ride it and jump it and loves to do donuts.
I am also not trying to badmouth DRR (I reread to make sure) and have recommended the machine to others. Even while upset in my first post I was just trying to find out if most people replaced them or had issues with them. My son is usually pretty good about telling me he hit this or that and we go from there.
Hope that clears things up a bit and that I don't give the wrong impression.
I think I will just order a new one and see if I can get this straightened at a machine shop...it is not that bad. Maybe I can use it as a spare or something. If I still have an issue...it will be time to pony up I reckon, but to be honest I would be very disappointed. If you clip a tree, roll it down a hill, clip another quads tire at speed, bottom it out really hard jumping...I am with you...otherwise it is disappointing.
I appears the post is going in a different direction than intended anyway. I regret posting it now. I am confident it didn't bend just sitting there and it may have come slightly bent from the factory.
..who knows. Maybe it is a freak thing that I may never deal with again.
bulldogfallon
06-15-2007, 02:40 PM
Originally posted by sldhd700
I read your previou post about your lug nut issues. I don t know about everybody else but, my sons bike came unassembled in a crate. If the lug nuts were over torqued you may want to contact the dealer that assembled the bike. If the bolts were that over torqued this could create a safety issue. For example breaking the studs while riding. If the bike was shipped unassembled this sounds like a dealer issue rather than a DRR issue. It sucks to hear someone is so unhappy with their bike.
I think that using proper tools also plays a roll in removing lug nuts
Using a socket by hand can be tough and can easily round off lug nut corners...an impact gun is the best bet from the get go
I wouldn't be so quick to blame the dealer..
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ATV riding techniques could be the subject of a full book. In the same article, we want to reveal to you the basics of safe riding. At first glance, there is nothing complicated in driving ATVs - you just need to steer and enjoy riding.
When driving over bumps, for example, those of the "wave" type, the driver must change his position all the time. So, when approaching an obstacle, you must shift your body back, otherwise you can hit the obstacle with your wheels. When driving over a bump, you need to move the body back forward, thus preventing excessive separation of the front wheels, i.e. rearing up the ATV. Then, when the rear wheels come off the ground, you need to move back again, otherwise you can fall out of the saddle, hitting your knees on the steering wheel.
The legs need to be slightly bent at the knees, relax the back and arms, spread the arms to the side. Moving in a straight line at low speeds (up to 40 km/h), you can afford to relax. But at higher speeds or when passing sharp turns and slopes, the driver must move very actively. Indeed, due to the high center of gravity, short wheelbase and small width, ATVs are very prone to rollovers. In addition, if the motorcycle flies separately from the motorcyclist during falls, then the ATV most often covers the driver.
Therefore, in order for ATV riding not to end with serious injuries, it is necessary to study the driving rules and strictly follow them.
ATV rider's weight is an important factor that affects machine handling. By shifting their weight, the driver can unload or load the front or rear of the ATV, thus compensating for centrifugal forces.
The first rule you need to learn is that when riding an ATV, you need to relax your arms. When driving, the driver can always let go of his hands, because his legs are holding him in the saddle. As the speed increases, the load on the legs also increases.
Conventionally, three racks are distinguished. The middle stance is used when driving in a straight line without turning. When opening the gas, the body must be moved forward to unload the hands. Thus, the front strut is obtained. When braking and closing the gas, the body, on the contrary, must be moved back, i.e. take a back seat. By the way, the word "stand" comes from the word "stand", and this name is not accidental.
When actively riding an ATV, you do not have to sit. Standing on an ATV lowers your center of gravity. After all, there is a huge difference between the weight on a high saddle and the weight on the footrests. And the effect of moving the body in a standing position is much greater than from fidgeting back and forth on the saddle.
When going through a turn on a motorcycle, it is tilted inward, thus struggling with centrifugal force. But you can't do that with a quad bike. Therefore, it is necessary to use the weight of the driver. The main rule here is to always transfer the weight inside the turn. Moreover, it is necessary not only to tilt your shoulders. It is necessary to hang the entire body, including the fifth point. Only the shin and knee hold on to the saddle. Of course, if you turn at minimum speed, then you can limit yourself to turning the steering wheel.
The correct stance is characterized by slightly bent knees, elbows set apart, and a slightly arched and relaxed back.
Why not stand on straight legs or keep your back straight and tense? Because bent knees allow you to absorb shock coming from uneven terrain. By the way, the force of these blows is sometimes quite enough to knock the driver out of the saddle. A straight tense back under such conditions can lead to injury to the intervertebral discs and even a compression fracture of the spine. Yes, and the internal organs with the wrong fit will have a hard time.
Active ATV riding requires good physical shape. So, in quad schools, the duration of the lesson does not exceed an hour, and at the end of the lesson, students can literally be squeezed out. And riding an ATV off-road is also an activity worthy of training in the gym.
When riding non-sport ATVs, it is best to avoid jumping. Firstly, this way you can break the ATV. Secondly, in order to safely perform such tricks, the ATV motor must have high-torque and fast response to the throttle. If, nevertheless, the jump could not be avoided, then it is necessary to land in the middle stance, but be ready to move to the back.
When the wheels touch the ground, you need to slightly open the gas. It is better not to use four-wheel drive when jumping.
Every time you ride an ATV, you need to practice looking into the distance. This is necessary to develop the habit of evaluating the trajectory of movement in advance. Beginners often do not have time to track the road, and at some point they are not ready to perform adequate actions. And another, very predictable obstacle, can become a problem for them.
| When moving along a slope, it is necessary to move the body in the direction opposite to the slope. On the steepest sections, full overhang should be used, such as when cornering at speed.
|
Before you start climbing, you need to pick up speed. Then the resulting inertia will allow you to smoothly drive into the steepness. If you suddenly open the gas directly on the rise, the ATV may tip over. Climbing should be in the most forward stance and on medium gas. If the incline is too steep, the ATV may roll backward when the throttle is released. In this case, you should not brake with the front axle, not the rear. If the ATV starts to roll over, you can try to jump to the side, but this acrobatic stunt is unlikely to be successful.
If the driver moves his torso out of the turn, then his centrifugal forces will pull him to the outer radius, and in order to stay in the saddle, he will need to firmly grip the steering wheel.
At the same time, the ATV will definitely try to roll over. To avoid such an unpleasant situation, it is always necessary to remember a simple rule - to shift the body only in the direction of rotation. Those. if we turn to the left, then we shift the body to the left side, and vice versa.
Descents must be made in the C-pillar. In this case, the arms must be extended and slightly bent at the elbows. There is no emphasis on the hands, you can even let them go, holding on with your feet. The steeper the descent, the more the driver must move the body back. The lower photos show the consequences of a descent in an incorrect landing. The main mistakes - the driver shifted the weight forward and pressed his hands to the body.
From time to time, the quad is acting up and not behaving as you would like.
Nothing beautiful lasts forever, right?
One of the most common faults you may encounter is the ATV suddenly pulling to the left or right.
If you're lucky, your problem may have a simple solution)
Let's take a look at some of the most common causes of ATV pulling to the side, and of course, here's how to get rid of these problems.
The most common problem that causes the ATV to pull to one side is the difference in rolling resistance due to different tire pressures. Also, the problem may be associated with natural wear or damage to various components of the chassis of the ATV and, as a result, a violation of the angle of the wheels.
So how do you determine what is causing problems when riding an ATV?
As you probably already understood, there can be several reasons.
To understand why an ATV wants to pull off the road and dive into a ditch when you really don't want to, you need to do a number of checks.
Although I don't have exact statistics to tell you which malfunction occurs most often, I still recommend that you start with what is easiest to check and fix before spending time and money on more non-standard and potentially more complex searches.
In my experience, the most common cause, and by far the easiest problem to check and fix, is uneven ATV tire pressures.
Let's look at what happens when ATV tires have different pressures.
A flat tire has a larger area of contact with the road surface than a normally inflated wheel, as a result of which the friction force, and hence the rolling resistance force, applied to such a wheel will be higher. The wheel will roll more slowly. The opposite wheel will run ahead and try to turn the ATV around the slow wheel. That is, if the ATV pulls, for example, to the left side, most likely, the fact is that the left wheel is lowered.
To solve this problem, you need to equalize the air pressure in the ATV tires. It is best to refer to the operating instructions, which must indicate the required air pressure in the wheels recommended by the manufacturer. The pressure in the wheels installed on the same axle of the ATV must be the same.
At the same time, you should be aware that due to the design features and weight distribution of the ATV, the tire pressure on the front and rear axles may differ.
Check with a good tire pressure sensor.
Most manufacturers are equipped with ATVs with a set of tools and a sensor for checking air pressure in wheels, such as ATVs Yacota SELA 200 , Yacota SELA 150 , Yacota Cabo 200066, Yacota Cabo 20065 MOTAX 200 , MOTAX GRIZLIK and MOTAX RAPTOR .
ATVs MOTAX and YACOTA have these sensors in the standard tool kit. If there is no such device in your kit, I recommend that you definitely purchase it. A very slight difference in air pressure in the tires may well be the reason that the ATV pulls to the side when driving in a straight line.
The air pressure should be checked in both the front and rear tires. True, uneven pressure in the rear tires, most likely, will not be the reason for the withdrawal of the ATV from a straight path. Different pressure in the rear tires can provoke another malfunction - premature wear of the rear differential, due to the increased load on it. But this is a story for a separate review.
I always keep this inexpensive instrument in my tool kit, its accuracy is good enough to use.
Also make sure that the maximum tire pressure is not exceeded.
Over time, ATV wheels can wear at different rates, resulting in the diameter of one wheel being different from the diameter of another wheel. This can also cause the ATV to pull to the side.
To check if the front wheel diameters are the same, you can do a simple check: place the ATV on a level surface and use chalk to make a mark on the sidewall of each front tire at the lowest point.
Wheels must be pointing straight ahead, gear lever in neutral position.
Roll the ATV forward until one of the wheels has made two or three revolutions and the mark you just made is back to the very bottom, to its original position. Look at the mark on the opposite tire. Ideally, it should also be at the very bottom. If this is not the case, the wheel circumferences do not match.
If the reason for the ATV pulling to the side lies in the difference in wheel circumference, then when driving to the right, the right tire should have a smaller circumference, and when driving to the left, the left one.
The circumference of the wheels can differ not only due to uneven wear, but also due to the difference in air pressure in the tires.
The wheel is like a balloon, the higher the pressure, the larger its diameter and vice versa.
For this operation, you need to lift the ATV, put it steadily on the supports so that all the wheels are in a suspended state.
It is very convenient to use a motorcycle stand to lift the ATV. If you do not have them yet, and you plan to service the ATV yourself, I recommend purchasing them. They are relatively inexpensive. Tackles will greatly simplify the ATV maintenance process.
Check that there is no excessive play in the ATV suspension and steering joints. Start with the tie rods and steering rack. This operation is more convenient to carry out with an assistant. Have an assistant move the ATV handlebars to the right and left, often and with a small range of motion. And you, in turn, keep your hand on the swivel, which are subject to verification. Check the steering tips and tie rods one by one. You will feel the excess play in the hinge with your hand. If the ATV steering wheel has excessive play, but the tie rod and steering tip are in order, then the steering rack itself or the steering shaft bushing may have play, which can also be checked by hand. The steering column bushing usually wears out over time.
The same goes for the ball joints on the tie rods.
Tighten any loose bolts and replace worn parts. Worn parts can break soon, so replacing them won't be a waste of money, even if their wear isn't the reason your ATV pulls to one side.
In addition, the wheel bearings must be checked for excessive play.
To do this, have a helper grab the top and bottom of the wheel and shake it while you check for play in the ball joints and wheel bearings.
Check how easy the wheels turn. The wheels should rotate freely, without noise and crackling. The presence of noise indicates wear on the hub bearing. And the tight running of the wheel is about bearing wear or souring of the brake pads. As we said, if one of the ATV's wheels is spinning at a slower speed than the other wheel, the ATV will pull towards the slow wheel.
If necessary, replace the bearings and service the front brake calipers. Sometimes the caliper is easy enough to clean, and sometimes you can’t do without replacing the brake cylinders or the caliper bracket itself.
Complete the work with suspension lubrication. The chassis of ATVs of the brands YACOTA , MOTAX , AVANTIS is equipped with special grease fittings through which you can easily lubricate the desired suspension unit. We have already told, in one of the reviews, using the example of a gasoline 125 cc ATV MOTAX T-REX , about the features of maintenance of the ATV suspension. Regular maintenance of your ATV will definitely prolong its life.
Control check three: checking the running gear for geometry violations.
If you use the ATV for active riding or sports, then it is possible that you have bent some part of the suspension on the next jump. ATV front suspension A-arms are especially prone to damage if you hit a stump or rock while riding. "Fast-growing" trees suddenly appearing in front of the ATV as you drive, a common story!)
A-arms are designed to absorb heavy suspension shocks and, through their integrity, retain more expensive and hard-to-find ATV parts that are more difficult, more expensive or even impossible to repair, for example, an ATV frame.
