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ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Powertrain > adjusting throttle cable
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set2crash67
12-21-2003, 09:31 AM
Is it true that the throttle cable on the 400ex only opens 75%? i saw on another web site that if u adjust the cable you can get it to open 100% and go faster is this true?:confused:
12-21-2003, 09:52 AM
the throttle cable moves the inside components to open the carburator...when the carburator is fully opened the throttle stops moving...you can adjust the throttle so you can push it FARTHER or push it LESS but you cannot make your carburator open more then it does...if you were to adjust it so you would have less throttle movement that would let u move the throttle less until getting to full throttle.
..or the position where the carburator is fully opened...for farther throttle travel you will have a lot more travel in the throttle and you will have to push it father to reach full throttle
btw welcome to the site :D
set2crash67
12-21-2003, 12:25 PM
o0o ok i se what you mean. thanks.... yea im new here how can i put a pic of my 400ex in the colum on the left side? I have another questions sorry about all the questions.... but if i modife the air box lid will it add ne hp/ speed? i have pics of how i want to modify it but i cant get the pics on here.
phebus
12-21-2003, 01:10 PM
My 400EX was delivered to me with the throttle adjustment screw screwed fully in. This only allowed for the throttle to open approx 75% of the way. I re-adjusted it to allow for 100% opening. I suggest you check yours. Take the airbox tube off, and adjust the screw on the throttle to allow it to open all the way. Check to make sure it will still idle fine, and turn the bars from side to side to make sure it isn't affected by bar position.
My understanding is that a lot of Honda's are delivered this way, as they come from the factory that way, and the dealer's don't check and adjust them prior to delivery.
Colby@C&DRacing
12-21-2003, 01:20 PM
Phebus is correct.
set2crash67
12-21-2003, 03:48 PM
thanks for all the help guys:)
ReconRider25
12-21-2003, 06:00 PM
where abouts is this screw on the carb and how do i know if its opened all the way?
cals400ex
12-21-2003, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by ReconRider25
where abouts is this screw on the carb and how do i know if its opened all the way?
you can just adjust the cable up there on the handle bars. what may be easiest is that you take the black plate off of the top of the throttle linkage. when you look inside there, you can see how the cable operates. if you push the throttle all the way in and it is stopped by the back stop, you know yours isn't adjusted the way it should be.
just turn the cable outward to tighten it. this adjustment can be made right up where the cable goes to the bars.
ewalker302
12-23-2003, 01:23 AM
Easy...
Just loosen the locknut/screw on the throttle cable (handlebars).
Then tighten the throttle cable----loosen the adjustment screw, till it starts to idle up, then back off a bit, tighten the locknut.
Your done.
& yes it is very possible that the carb isn't opening up all the way if the cable isn't adjusted properly. If you are moving the thumb throttle much at all without the engine responding, you need to adjust.
:bandit:
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In order for the ATV to work like a clock, the rider needs to regularly carry out a complete maintenance of the equipment.
And a key element of maintenance is ATV carburetor adjustment. Over time, the system starts to work incorrectly, which increases fuel consumption, worsens dynamics and other problems appear. So how do you adjust an ATV carburetor?
The operation and life of the engine directly depends on the quality of the fuel mixture. The carburetor is responsible for the preparation of the composition, but after prolonged use of the equipment, the settings “go astray”. This results in:
Many riders who decide to buy an inexpensive ATV simply do not spare the technique and ignore this procedure. But even if you plan to change your device in 1.5-2 years, adjustment is needed. The reason for this is increased fuel consumption. A quad with an untuned carburetor "eats" 30-40% more gasoline, and these are tangible costs.
So how do you adjust the carburetor on a Chinese ATV? For this you need:
However, it is important to remember that all adjustments are made only with a "clean" carburettor. This means that the rider needs to remove all the dirt from the node and flush the system to remove condensation and sediment from it.
Note: Just before adjusting, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature.
To set the carburetor idle speed, the float chamber must first be cleared of fuel. To do this, start the ATV, close the fuel cock and wait until the machine stalls (5-10 minutes). To speed up the process, you can take a little ride on the quadric. Of course, gasoline can be drained, but in any case you will have to warm up the device, so the first method of "removing" gasoline is more effective.
Then:
Read the manual before adjusting the carburetor on a 125cc ATV to be sure. Remember that the location of the bolts is different in different devices, so read the documentation in advance.
To evaluate the quality of the fuel composition, make a test run.
After that, unscrew the candle, and evaluate its condition. If it is:
Also look out for these “symptoms”: damaged tip (electrode failure), oil deposits (damage to rings and caps), chips and inclusions (sign of motor failure).
To adjust the mixture you need to twist the needle cover and pull it out. To get the needle, pull out the cable. After that, move the ring in the required direction (lower - more air, but less fuel and vice versa).
Then start the engine and make sure it doesn't stall.
The last step in adjusting the 125cc ATV carburetor is adjusting the petrol level. To do this, you need:
Note: Adjust as carefully as possible as system components are very fragile. Ideally, carburetor tuning should be done by a specialist.
06/16/2020 21198
Yesterday finally coped with the previously described problems in the engine. Actually, I didn’t want to get into the engine on my own - that’s why I took it to official dealers, then to a good (according to previous experience) car service.
As a result, the ATV moved from one place to another for several weeks, and the problem was not solved. As a result, I decided it - I state further.
The officials, after a couple of weeks of studying the ATV, only shrugged their shoulders: they only listed the error codes for me, so I myself knew perfectly well - fortunately I learned to diagnose it myself through the self-diagnosis system. And when I was just about to take an ATV to them, I specifically called in advance and clarified whether they have a device that allows you to adjust the throttle position sensor.
I sinned on this sensor from the very beginning: well, what can lead to "sneezing" into the air filter, turning off the engine and heating the exhaust at the same time? It is logical that the throttle position is incorrect: the mixture is either too rich and burns out in the muffler, or poor and the engine stalls. If the position sensor gives incorrect signals to the ECU, then the engine control systems will not work correctly.
Throttle position sensor adjustment is a full page in the service manual. First, it is proposed to test it (the voltage on the contacts is checked), after which, if there are deviations, the adjustment procedure is described. In principle, this is not a complicated procedure, but the accuracy of voltage measurements should be hundredths of a volt. Plus, measurements are made through a special device that clings to the sensor terminal. Here on the left in the picture this prefix is \u200b\u200bdepicted, into which they offer to climb with a multimeter.
At one time I wanted to adjust the position of the sensor myself, but it confused me that the wires shown in the repair manual were of a different color. Moreover, this prefix is incomprehensible ... In general, I called official dealers and asked if they had such a thing, if they knew how to use it and if they could do it. Yes, they say, what a problem! Bring!
Brought. First of all, they asked if any of the acquaintances had the same ATV, only without malfunctions.
Well, I replied that none of my friends had a Sportsman 800, and asked - why, they say? And we, - they say, - from a serviceable one, all the sensors would be thrown in turn until the problem was gone. Once again, I confirmed my distrust of such "masters", but since I brought the quadric, I left them to be torn to pieces. As a result, they were written off with Moscow and Yaroslavl dealers, but they never came up with anything. They found some kind of microcrack on the nozzle sealing ring, but they said that they say it is not in the working area and should not affect the work. And the funny thing is that in the end (after my urgent requests to set up the throttle position sensor) it turned out: they don’t have this prefix for measuring the voltage on the sensor at all. Competent experts confused it with some kind of prefix for synchronizing carburetors. The fact that they do not have a computer for diagnosing Polaris ATVs - I knew for a long time. Here are the official dealers....
In general, I didn’t see any sense from them - I took the quadra and took it to another car service, where more sane craftsmen checked the electrics.
They said that the sensors are all working, they changed the high-voltage wires, put in new candles - but the problem did not go away. The fact is that they checked the fundamental performance of the sensors, not knowing the exact values of the signal voltage. As a result, I began to think about problems in the gas distribution system. However, the motorists, whom I would have dared to give the ATV to be torn to pieces, were inundated with snowmobile maintenance and would only begin to deal with my problems after the New Year holidays.
It did not suit me, I brought the quad to the garage, removed the stator cover, examined the flywheel... I will probably write about this in more detail later, for now I will only report that I didn’t see anything suspicious there right away. But when I came to the disassembled quadra the next day, I saw a puddle of antifreeze mixed with oil under it. Apparently, an oil seal or a gasket has been pierced - it will have to be replaced, so you still have to actually climb into the engine .
...
Well, back to the problems with the engine itself. The ATV was in the garage, and I looked at it and thought about how to fix the problem. At one fine moment, I thought - what prevents me from measuring the voltage at the contacts of the damper position sensor with a simple enumeration? there are only three wires, it’s not a problem to calculate the right pair, a digital multimeter has appeared in the garage since the time of LED circuits - it seems like no one bothers to try.
As a result, I recommend doing it right with the ATV turned on (you don’t need to start the engine, just turn on the electrical part), and not with a battery, as suggested in the manual. The throttle valve will need to be disconnected from the air ducts and the position sensor wire of interest to us and the throttle cable placed in a PVC braid will go from it. You don't need to disconnect them. Taking this opportunity, I again washed the throttle valve: during my experiments, a decent amount of soot accumulated in it.
We will be interested in this three-pin terminal next to the throttle valve (to the position sensor installed in the damper body from the terminal 20 centimeters of wire): with tips stripped of insulation:
We fix the wires at one end in the connector (we make sure that they do not close, of course):
We connect the connector, thereby clamping our "contacts for testing" between the standard contacts:
Next, unscrew the clamping bolt , which sets the damper position at idle. The bolt must be unscrewed so that it does not touch the damper itself, and the damper is completely closed. The manual recommends at this stage to open and close the damper a couple of times with the accelerator trigger (with the bolt already unscrewed). This stage in the repair manual is designated as very important, since it is from this value (fully closed damper) that the remaining modes of its operation will be determined.
Now you need to find two of our three wires with a multimeter, between which the voltage will be in the region of 0.
5 volts. I draw your attention - the voltages are extremely small, and the tuning accuracy in the manual is +/-0.01 V - so the measurements are only with a digital multimeter and with a correctly selected measurement limit on it.
Here, by sequential enumeration of combinations of wires, I determined the desired pair (on other pairs of wires, the voltage, it seems, is 5 V, or is completely absent - in general, you can’t go wrong):
Voltage 0.538 V, we don’t pay attention to the color of the wires, we fix the wires to the probes by simply winding them - for convenience, because we don’t have to rearrange the probes anymore. The manual says that the voltage should be 0.528 +/-0.01 V. We see that we have it almost at the upper limit of the permissible. I decided to bring it closer to the middle of the range. To do this, as described in the manual, we loosen the fastening of the sensor itself - a small asterisk bolt:
We look at the multimeter readings, slightly rotate the sensor clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on whether we need to lower or increase the voltage.
Pull the mount back. When the bolt is screwed into place, the readings of the multimeter change. Those. it is necessary to experimentally select the required voltage margin so that when the bolt is tightened, the readings are taken to the desired 0.528 volts. Well, after a little rigmarole I got 0.523 V:
We set the initial position of the sensor. Now you need to adjust the position of the throttle at idle. To do this, we begin to screw in place the previously unscrewed clamping bolt (not the sensor mount). In this case, we look at the multimeter. It should show (according to the setup guide) 0.710 V. Since I already took photos when reconfiguring the sensor, I decided to make it a little smaller - I had a high idle speed and I set the damper at the lower limit of the allowable range - 0.700 V:
As a result, after installing the damper in place, the engine speed at idle:
I did not lower it below. Initially (at the first setting), at a voltage of 0.710V, it got idle speeds in the region of 1400, which is too much, although the gears were switched on even at such speeds without the slightest jerk or shock.
