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How do i install front cv axel on 2001 yamaha kodiak atv
How do i install front cv axel on 2001 yamaha kodiak atv
Sixity How To: ATV and UTV Axle Replacement
Sixity How To: ATV and UTV Axle Replacement | Sixity.com
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Most ATV riders will at some point need to replace their machine’s axles. This how-to guide is intended to show you that this repair can be done as a DIY project, saving you professional labor costs and even enhancing your overall ATV experience.![]()
The steps we provide below are general in nature and are not meant to replace the instructions found in your OEM owner’s manual. Different brands may have different torque specifications and axle mounting configurations. When in doubt, follow the OEM instructions.
Please read these instructions thoroughly prior to working on your vehicle to prevent damage and/or injury from occurring. These axles come with a sure-lock mechanism designed into the inner joint which requires special handling in order to be properly removed and installed into the casing.
If all goes well, this procedure should take an hour start to finish, even if it’s your first experience.
CAUTION
Do not use any form of mechanical force when removing the inner joint from the gearbox or damage may occur. We recommend that sure-grip work gloves be worn while working on your vehicle.
THINGS YOU'LL NEED
- A reliable jack and safety blocks
- Torque wrench
- Needle nose pliers
- Socket wrench set
- Rubber mallet
- A cotter pin (if not provided)
- Contact cleaner, rags
- Safety glasses and sure-grip gloves
- Copy of your OEM Service Manual
- Penetrating oil (if old axle is stuck)
Front Axle Removal & Installation
Rear Axle Removal & Installation
FRONT AXLE REMOVAL
- Place your ATV into park.
Raise your machine so that the wheels are off the ground with a jack. Make sure you have a reliable jack that can take the sideways pull required to remove the axle. Use wheel blocks to secure the ATV.
- Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
- Place the lug nuts back on the hub and lightly tighten.
- Some hubs have a plastic cap covering the axle nut, also called a castle nut or castellated nut. Remove the cap. Then use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin on the axle nut securing the hub. To remove the axle nut, you may need to have someone press and hold the brake to provide the resistance you need. Use a socket wrench (typically 27 mm) to loosen the nut. Remove any washers as well.
- Remove the brake caliper by removing the fasteners. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Take note of the way the brake line is routed so you can put it back together in the same way. If you’d like, secure it with a zip tie out of the way.
- Remove the hub.
- This step is to free up the axle from its attachments. To do this, remove the steering’s tie rod end (if applicable) from the spindle. Remove the upper steering knuckle joint from the bearing carrier to free the lower carrier assembly. Swing the carrier assembly down and back, carefully working the axle from the spindle. Since models vary, consult your service manual for their recommendations. Note: Depending on the make and model of your ATV (and the extreme angle of the axle), you may prefer instead to remove the upper sway link connection and lower shock mounting bolt to move the shock up out of the way and swing the carrier assembly up rather than down to gain enough clearance to free the axle. Or you may choose to remove both the upper and lower ball joints, along with the tie rod end to remove the knuckle completely.
- Once the axle is free, it’s time to pull out the axle from the housing. First, make sure you’re pulling at a straight angle.
Also, ensure your ATV is secure and will not fall off the jack. Holding onto the axle shaft, give it a few swift tugs, and it should come free. You may need to push in first. There’s a snap ring holding the axle into place, so it could take a little force to remove the axle.
- If the axle is stuck, try spraying the area at the casing with penetrating lubricant and wait a few minutes before trying again. Be careful not to damage the casing.
- Once the axle is removed, clean up the seal face on the casing. Spray contact cleaner around the outside. Be sure not to get any contact cleaner inside. Wipe clean with a rag.
- Carefully compare the axle you have removed with the new axle to make sure they are the same.
FRONT AXLE INSTALLATION
- Reverse the directions above for installing the new axle. Put some grease or anti-seize on the inner splines.
- Then, insert the axle into the casing, lining up the splines.
It might take a couple hits of a rubber mallet on the end to drive the axle into place. You’ll know it’s in position when you hear and feel it click. Give the axle a slight tug to make sure the clip is locked into place.
- Now that the inner joint is in place, thread the outer joint through the hub the same way you took it apart.
Optional: This is a good time to clean the knuckle/spindle at the wheel bearing with some contact cleaner to inspect your ATV components for wear and tear.
- Lift up on the axle and the lower carrier assembly to fit the knuckle back on the upper arm, refastening the steering knuckle joint in place. Use a jack underneath the carrier assembly to make refastening easier. Reconnect the tie rod end to the knuckle. If applicable, reconnect the shock to the upper A-arm, along with the sway bar link. Since models may vary, consult your service manual for their recommendations.
- Reinstall the hub onto the knuckle.
You may need to pull on the axle to line up the outer splines with the hub. Reinstall the brake caliper onto the rotor and thread in the new fasteners.
- Install the washer onto the hub followed by the castle axle nut and tighten. Have someone hold the brakes down to tighten the nut if needed.
- Insert a new cotter pin in the new castle nut, securing the hub. Install the plastic cover if there is one.
- Reinstall the tire, and secure with lug nuts. Ensure everything is clear before you lower the ATV to the ground.
- Your Sixity Axle is now installed – enjoy!
We encourage you to use caution on your first ride to ensure your axle has been properly installed. Happy riding!
REAR AXLE REMOVAL
- Place your ATV into park. Raise your machine so that the wheels are off the ground with a jack. Make sure you have a reliable jack that can take the sideways pull required to remove the axle.
Use wheel blocks to secure the ATV.
- Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
- Place the lug nuts back on the hub and lightly tighten.
- Some hubs have a plastic cap covering the axle nut, also called a castle nut or castellated nut. Remove the cap. Then use needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin on the axle nut securing the hub. To remove the axle nut, you may need to have someone press and hold the brake to provide the resistance you need. Use a socket wrench (typically 27 mm) to loosen the nut. Remove any washers as well.
- Remove the brake caliper by removing the fasteners. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Take note of the way the brake line is routed so you can put it back together in the same way. If you’d like, secure it with a zip tie out of the way.
- Remove the hub.
- Just like the front axle removal, this step is to help you free the axle from the trailing arm.
Since models vary, consult your service manual for their recommendations. If applicable, remove the toe link, followed by the upper and lower radius rods at the trailing arm. Support the trailing arm on small jack stand. Let the upper and lower radius rods down. Move the trailing arm away from the vehicle, working the axle free. You may need to remove the lower shock bolt to allow the trailing arm to move out far enough.
- Once the axle is free, it’s time to pull out the axle from the housing. First, make sure you’re pulling at a straight angle. Also, ensure your ATV is secure and will not fall off the jack. Holding onto the axle shaft, give it a few swift tugs, and it should come free. You may need to push in first. There’s a snap ring holding the axle into place, so it could take a little force to remove the axle.
- If the axle is stuck, try spraying the area at the casing with penetrating lubricant and wait a few minutes before trying again. Be careful not to damage the casing.
- Once the axle is removed, clean up the seal face on the casing. Spray contact cleaner around the outside. Be sure not to get any contact cleaner inside. Wipe clean with a rag.
-
Carefully compare the axle you have removed with the new axle to make sure they are the same.
REAR AXLE INSTALLATION
- Reverse the directions above for installing the new axle. Put some grease or anti-seize on the inner splines. Then, insert the axle into the casing, lining up the splines.
- It might take a couple hits of a rubber mallet on the end to drive the axle into place. You’ll know it’s in position when you hear and feel it click. Give the axle a slight tug to make sure the clip is locked into place.
- Now that the inner joint is in place, thread the outer joint through the hub the same way you took it apart.
Optional: This is a good time to clean the knuckle/spindle at the wheel bearing with some contact cleaner to inspect your ATV components for wear and tear.
- Pull the trailing arm out and then slide the axle back into position. Slide the lower radius rod into the hub, followed by the upper radius rod. Install the radius rod bolts. Lastly, install the toe rod if applicable. Tighten all fasteners.
- Reinstall the hub onto the knuckle. You may need to pull on the axle to line up the outer splines with the hub. Reinstall the brake caliper onto the rotor and thread in the new fasteners.
- Install the washer onto the hub followed by the castle axle nut and tighten. Have someone hold the brakes down to tighten the nut if needed.
- Insert a new cotter pin in the new castle nut, securing the hub. Install the plastic cover if there is one.
- Reinstall the tire, and secure with lug nuts. Ensure everything is clear before you lower the ATV to the ground.
- Your Sixity Axle is now installed – enjoy!
We encourage you to use caution on your first ride to ensure your axle has been properly installed.
Happy riding!
DISCLAIMER
Our axles are designed and intended for use as OE-replacement axles only. These axles are not warranted if installed improperly, a modification has been made to include a lift kit, the installation of oversized tires, or if racing or performance enhancements are made to the engine other than the OE design. Read our full warranty policy here.
- End of Procedure -
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Copyright © 2013-present Magento, Inc. All rights reserved. Moose Racing LM6 Front Axle Yamaha Kodiak 400 2000-2002
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Moose Racing LM6 Front Axle Yamaha Kodiak 400
Moose Racing LM6 Replacement Axle Shafts use six heavy-duty, heat-treated ball bearings at every CV joint.
Paired with a solid chromoly axle shaft, Moose LM6 Axles promise higher strength and longer life than factory drive components. OEM-style quality control standards and the latest manufacturing methods in ISO-certified facilities guarantee precision. Kits arrive ready to install - saving you down time, costs and frustration - with factory-lubricated joints and pre-installed stainless CV boot clamps.
Features:
-
Easy to install, pre-assembled axle half shaft
-
6 precision ball bearings allow for smoother operation and increased joint strength
-
4340 chromoly-steel axle bar
-
Up to 35 percent larger cages and races - increasing strength and durability
-
Factory-lubricated using high temperature moly grease
-
Pre-installed low profile stainless steel clamps
-
Includes spindle nut and washers where applicable (vehicle specific)
-
ISO/TS16949 - ISO 9001 registered manufacturing facilities
-
Sold each
-
Replacement Part for OEM Number(s) 5Gh3510F0000, 5Gh3510J0000
Note: Image for reference only.
Actual product varies with application.
Read More
This product is vehicle specific. Click here to select your vehicle to ensure fitment.
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| Product Style | Item # | Store SKU | Manufacturer Product # | Availability |
|---|
| Product Style Front Left / Right | Item # 10153105 | Store SKU | Manufacturer Product # LM6-YA-8-308 | Availability Available: Ships in 1-2 business days |
Yamaha grizzly 660 frame, yamaha grizzly | Festima.Ru
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Auto parts
5 months ago Source
Tool box for trailer Type 2 medium Medium 427x217x194 (6.6 kg) __________________________________________________________💰It is possible to purchase goods on CREDIT!!! ⏱You can call ☎ us or visit our salon from Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 19:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00. And also ask us your question in the Avito chat 📩 _____________________________________________________________ "BOAT TRADE" is a direct representative of PRAKTIK PRO products in Volgograd! Volgograd, st. Cherepovetskaya, 1D __________________________________________________________ Steel boxes are reliable and practical structures that are ideal for storing and transporting things you need on the road. Hanging luggage boxes are effortlessly mounted on the trailer frame and allow you to store additional accessories and even batteries.
Made of galvanized steel, not subject to corrosion and various harmful factors. If you want to add convenience and functionality to your boat trailer, crates are a great solution and a very useful purchase. __________________________________________________________ Specifications: Material: galvanized steel. Scope of delivery: Roller cradles, hydraulic pump, Factory packaging: Rigid packaging Sea Pro (Sea Pro), Volzhanka (Volzhanka), Finval (Finval), Albacore (Albacore), Victory (Victory), (Navigator), Riviera (Rivera), Hunter (Hunter), Yukona (Yukon), Lowrance (Lawrence) , Humminbird (Hamminberd), Garmin (Garmin), MZSA, etc...
Auto parts
6 months ago Source
Left over from a motorcycle. Complete without scratches or defects
Auto parts
6 months ago Source
READ CAREFULLY!!!!!!!! Only documents, the most complete set (it was not registered and is not worth it, two DCTs are included, respectively 2 owners .
.), there are 4 free places in the TCP! There is also much more from this and other Japanese motorcycles! Your guarantees are our reviews in our VK group (more than 690 pcs) there is a shipment to Belarus, Kazakhstan
6 months ago Source
Yamaha R1/M 2015-2021 Protective Sliders Manufacturer: Evotech-Performance (UK) Evotech-Performance is the world's leading manufacturer of protective accessories for motorcycles. Even an amateur can install the products of this brand, thanks to the highest quality of workmanship of all details. We have been a dealer of Evotech-Performance for more than 5 years. Suitable for Yamaha YZF-R1 2015-2021 Yamaha YZF-R1M 2015-2021 Yamaha MT-10 2016+ Yamaha MT-10SP 2016+ Yamaha FZ-10 2017+ We send to the regions by CDEK on the day of payment for the order.
Auto parts
6 months ago Source
Frame Yamaha R6 06-07, without documents. in excellent condition, no defects, wine number is available and not cut down.
Sending to the regions of the shopping mall. There are other parts for this bike.
Auto parts
7 months ago Source
YAMAHA Grizzly/Kodiak 700 front bumper for models from 2016 (STEEL Rival equivalent) Easy installation Maximum protection of headlight frame plastic
Auto parts
9 months ago Source
Frame for Grand Majesta 400 2006 with Title, is registered 25 region (Primorye) in excellent condition.
Auto Parts
10 months ago Source
Any spare part from the Puig catalog is available to order Puig Pro series frame sliders for Yamaha MT09 / Tracer 900 21+ The sliders are mounted on metal plates, which, in turn, have 2 attachment points to the frame on each side, thereby providing additional strength when the motorcycle falls. Thanks to their larger area, they allow you to protect the maximum possible surface of the motorcycle.
Article: 20670N Applicability: Yamaha MT-09(2021) Yamaha MT-09 SP (2021) Yamaha MT-09 TRACER (2021) Yamaha MT-09 TRACER GT (2021) Manufacturer: Puig Country of origin: Spain
Auto parts
11 months ago Source
Frame with documents Yamaha T-max XP500 Yamaha Tmax 2001 color yellow 5GJ-21110-20-00 Some damage, see photo
Auto parts
a year ago Source
frame with TCP Yamaha TT-R 250 Raid 4GY
Auto parts
a year ago Source
frame with TCP Yamaha TT-R 250 Raid 4GY
Auto parts
a year ago Source
frame with pts Yamaha TDM850-2 RN03J
Auto parts
a year ago Source
Frame in excellent condition, sandblasted and painted.
Auto parts
a year ago Source
Yamaha XJR 400 R2.
Frame + Title + certificate of registration + state number. (according to pts 1994th century). Frame without welding or cracks. The geometry is not broken. Additional questions by phone or avito messages. Sending to the regions by transport companies. yamaha xjr 400 yamaha xjr 400 yamaha yamaha xjr 400 yamaha xjr 400 higer frame
auto parts
a year ago Source
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Yamaha 350 Big Bear Specifications
The Big Bear 350 from Yamaha Motor Company is an all-terrain vehicle.
It was introduced in 1987 in two colors - red and white. 350 - Yamaha's first 4x4 ATV - made until 1999, but with some modifications during its production. For example, the 1997 model came with all-wheel drive and was available in gray or blue.
Content
- 0.1 Main characteristics
- 0.2 Engine
- 0.3 Appearance and dimensions
- 0.4 Security Specifications
- 1 Warnings
Main characteristics
The Big Dipper 350 can carry a maximum load of 175 pounds. The ATV is equipped with an odometer, which makes maintenance possible depending on the mileage of the engine. The vehicle has a 10-speed high and low range transmission equipped with reverse gears, which facilitates off-road maneuverability by enhancing the vehicle's ability to decelerate. Other general ATV features include:
- Torque management The front wheel differential provides the necessary torque for off-road manoeuvres.
- The car has an electric start for reliable starting of the engine, as well as regular sparks for every stroke, which increases the performance of the engine.
- The car is easy to stop as it has hydraulic brakes on the front axle and a mechanical drum brake on the rear axle.
Engine
The 350 Big Bear has a 350cc four-stroke engine. See with oil cooling system. The intake, power, compression, and stroke phases of the engine occur with each complete revolution of the crankshaft. It has a single overhead cam design that allows the camshaft to be mounted inside the cylinders. This makes it lighter than overhead valve engines. Engine Specific Specifications:
Engine capacity 21.3 cu. Inches, that is, the volume that the gun sweeps in one movement inside the engine cylinders. The engine cylinders are 3.3" in diameter, the guns move 2.5" inside the engine cylinders. Five-speed transmission system delivering engine power to the wheels.
