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FAQ on ATV Snow Tire Chains What is the difference between 2 and 4 link spacing? Spacing is defined as the number of side chain links skipped between cross chains. For 2 link spacing, cross chains occur every 2 side chain links. For 4 link spacing, cross chains occur every 4 side chain link. Which is better 2 or 4 link spacing atv tire chains? 2 link is always better. It provides for a more consistent ride by having more chain on the face of the tire. Therefore, helping to reduce the bumpy ride from being on chain - off chain.
2 link is always recommended for steering tires, since it allows more steering control. Why are ATV tire chains only available in V-Bar? V-bar ATV tire chains are helpful on hill, ice and hard packed conditions. V Bar or Studded ATV Chains are not recommended on pavement since they can damage the surface it the tires begin to spin. Which tire chain style provides the best traction?Studded Diamond ATV Snow Chains are the best. 2 link is the next. For deep tread which style is recommended? 2 link is better than 4 link. Studded or Non Studded Diamond ATV-UTV Chains are the best for keeping the chain on top deep lugs. Do I have enough clearance between the tire, struts, or control arms? Check your your owner's manual, vehicle manufacture or dealer to confirm adequate clearance. Click here for a picture of a clearance problem. Why should I pay more for TireChain.com ATV Studded Tire Chains? We have 2 studs per link, theirs has 2 studs every other link. Ours is zinc coated, theirs is clear coated.
Ours is thicker
ATV Studded Snow Chains by TireChains.com Studded Tire Chains Important: Compare to Competitors - Make sure you get two studs per link. Our Studded tire chains have 2 studs per link. Other brands, have as few as 2 studs every other link. Our oversized studs penetrate ice, frozen ground for ultimate traction in snow and mud. Floating Diamond Tire Chains pattern protects the tire. Visit TireChain.com for details. http://www.tirechain.com/ATV-Studded-Tire-Chains.html
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FAQ on ATV Snow Tire Chains What is the difference between 2 and 4 link spacing? Spacing is defined as the number of side chain links skipped between cross chains. For 2 link spacing, cross chains occur every 2 side chain links.
For 4 link spacing, cross chains occur every 4 side chain link. Which is better 2 or 4 link spacing atv tire chains? 2 link is always better. It provides for a more consistent ride by having more chain on the face of the tire. Therefore, helping to reduce the bumpy ride from being on chain - off chain. 2 link is always recommended for steering tires, since it allows more steering control. Why are ATV tire chains only available in V-Bar? V-bar ATV tire chains are helpful on hill, ice and hard packed conditions. V Bar or Studded ATV Chains are not recommended on pavement since they can damage the surface it the tires begin to spin. Which tire chain style provides the best traction?Studded Diamond ATV Snow Chains are the best. 2 link is the next. For deep tread which style is recommended? 2 link is better than 4 link. Studded or Non Studded Diamond ATV-UTV Chains are the best for keeping the chain on top deep lugs. Do I have enough clearance between the tire, struts, or control arms? Check your your owner's manual, vehicle manufacture or dealer to confirm adequate clearance.
Click here for a picture of a clearance problem. Why should I pay more for TireChain.com ATV Studded Tire Chains? We have 2 studs per link, theirs has 2 studs every other link. Ours is zinc coated, theirs is clear coated. Ours is thicker
Maverik » Feb 21, 2015, 11:16
On one site I saw an advertisement for studs that can be put in when you need to, and when you don’t need to, remove them from the tires. That is, for winter it will not be necessary to look for spikes. Has anyone seen spikes like this? How secure are they?
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Merk » Feb 21, 2015, 11:34 am
I have seen such studs for a long time in one of the online stores. First of all, I want to note the high price of such spikes. For the price, at least one studded tire comes out (with about the same number of studs). Who has a desire - you can put. It's just not recommended to shoot. Despite the manufacturer's statements, it is better not to remove them.
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Rihard » 21 Feb 2015, 21:45
A friend just screwed in the screws and smeared the attachment point with glue.
I rode a little on the knurled snow and there were no “thorns”. Plus I had to change all the tires. With such removable spikes, the situation is about the same. They will hold better than self-tapping screws, but they will still fly off faster.
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Pacman » Feb 21, 2015, 10:00 pm
When preparing for winter on the very first quad with a friend, we decided to install the studs ourselves. They didn’t buy a spike because just some spikes were offered to us at a low price and of normal quality. You can ride. With straight arms, it turns out no worse than studded rubber. We just didn't want to take them off. Then we bought other tires, but left these ones like that. Too much time is spent on them.
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Fizik » 22 Feb 2015, 15:08
Probably many people are interested in self-installation of studs on tires.
I also once decided to put it myself. The neighbor looked, said that I would change the tires very quickly. The spikes were inserted without any problems, it seems to be reliable. I rode well for half a day, looked at the condition of the tires in the garage. The neighbor was right. More than half of the spikes flew out and in some places the rubber was noticeably damaged at the attachment points. It's good that the tires were old and there was a new set in the garage.
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Magin » 22 Feb 2015, 15:18 For the cost, it might be a little cheaper and come out. But you need to take into account the cost of time. And although later the spikes can be removed and re-installed next winter, practice shows that either the tires change by the second season, or the spikes no longer hold as firmly as they did the first time.
Therefore, in fact, there is no saving at all.
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12/08/2015
Very often you can hear drivers talking about studded tires in a not very favorable light.
But what can you do? Indeed, without it in our harsh winters simply can not do. Practice has already proven that it is studded tires that allow you to stop on a frozen road in a timely manner and give the vehicle better handling characteristics, while allowing you to avoid skidding when making turns or in dangerous sections of the road. But there is one problem - the purchase of such rubber with metal inserts that are installed at the factory will require a lot of money to be invested, which some families cannot afford. Then the only way out of such a difficult situation will be to perform independent tire studding. This is a way not only to save money, but also to learn the characteristics of the wheels. Are studded tires made by hand reliable? Do they meet all safety requirements? The answers will be given later in this article.
Spike base: what should it be?
Studding is allowed only on winter tires, as they have a higher rubber density that can hold metal products.
It is better to stop your choice on rubber, equipped with special holes for mounting spikes. This option will be more durable and practical. Before buying them, it is worthwhile to conduct a thorough check - to determine the uniformity of the location of the nests (in the complex they must form a certain pattern). Otherwise, there is a high probability of buying fake products that are not able to provide proper safety and reliability.
Important! Do-it-yourself tire studding is only necessary on new tires. This is due to the fact that when they are worn, the reliability of fixing metal inserts in broken mounting holes will not be ensured.
Of course, it is theoretically possible to perform studding on ordinary rubber, in which there are no special recesses. But then there is a risk of damage to the new product up to its final unusability. In addition, it is worth noting that the sockets for the spikes are made only with the help of expensive equipment, which includes a drill with flexible adjustment of the spindle speed, a tubular hollow drill.
For the rest of the work, it is possible to use various types of equipment for tire studding - the choice of one or another type depends only on the needs and desires.
Fixation of studs
It is possible to fix studs to rubber in several ways, each of which has its own characteristics:
Exclusively manual fixation. To do this, you need a special key, a hammer and a screwdriver. The advantage of this option is the availability of execution to everyone. The downside is a lot of work.
Semi-automatic fastening involves screwing in metal inserts using a drill or a screwdriver with a special nozzle. The speed of work here is somewhat higher, but careful monitoring of the correct location of each spike is required.
Automated installation uses a pneumatic gun to pierce the spikes under tremendous pressure. This not only ensures the strength of fixation, but also reduces the complexity of the process. The disadvantage in this case is the high cost of the required equipment.
Which of the proposed methods to choose is everyone's business. But one thing is clear: buying an air gun for the sake of studding the tires of one bike will most likely be irrational. It will come in handy only if there are several motorcycles in the family, or a business organization. According to experts, the best option for the process of fixing the inserts is the semi-automatic method.
Tip! The tire for spikes should be pre-treated with soapy water. This will clean it of dirt and facilitate the process of entering the spike into the recess.
Cleaning can be done with a household sponge, but it is more preferable to use a pneumatic sprayer for this purpose, which allows the solution to penetrate deeper into the holes. Studding winter tires should be done as carefully as possible, carefully monitoring the uniformity of applying metal products. In case of erroneous installation of the spike, it can be removed with pliers, swinging movements.
Which spikes to choose?
There are many different inserts for winter tires.
Their choice should be treated especially responsibly and with knowledge. For our area, where there are only two problems - fools and roads, it is worth giving preference towards products made of iron-containing alloys. So, for example, aluminum inserts will be deformed immediately after a one-time drive along a country road with multiple bumps and pits.
The next thing to look for when buying tire studs is the shape of the carbide tip, which is visible from the outside. Ordinary spikes with a round end have a fairly low cost, but their efficiency cannot reach the proper level. So, for example, four or multifaceted spikes sold in many northern European countries are able to ensure the stability of driving even with ice. Recently, diamond spikes have become so popular. They got this name not because of the material of their manufacture (no, in their composition one cannot find an expensive stone loved by women), but due to the complexity of the shape of the tip, which imitates the structure of a crystal.
Many motorcyclists are also interested in the required number of stud flanges. The answer in this case is quite simple: lovers of active driving should give their preference to two-flange options, which have more stable characteristics when driving at high speeds and making sharp maneuvers. Single-flanged models have a lower cost and long wear, but in the case of active driving, the loss of studs is inevitable.
Important! When choosing spikes, it is necessary to pay attention to their dimensions: the maximum allowable protrusion of the metal head above the tire is 1.3 mm. In this regard, it is better to make a purchase of studs at the same outlet where winter tires were purchased: without “trying on” one of them, it is impossible to draw a conclusion about the suitability of the size. It is also not desirable to purchase a large number of metal inserts. After all, the law on the possible permissible number of spikes per linear meter will soon come into force: their number should not exceed 60 pieces.
This means that for a wheel size R13 mounting 90 inserts, and for R16 - 150.
The final stage
After the end of the studding process, they are carefully checked for the presence of skewed inserts and too protruding tips. The first problem is solved by extracting them with pliers. And spikes that do not meet the standard dimensions are simply driven in. To do this, you only need a hammer and a small metal plate that will allow you to distribute the impact energy.
Important! After the final completion of the studding process, the rubber should be left at rest for a while: for 1-2 weeks. This will ensure the maximum density of the grip of the tires, contributing to an increase in the strength of their fastening. After installing studded tires, they should be run in a little - namely, drive the first hundreds of kilometers only at speeds up to 80 km / h, without making sharp maneuvers and active starts. Do not worry if several spikes are lost during the break-in process - they will not have a special effect on the stability of the car in ice.
